Escaping the system for trad rock climbers part 2
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- Опубліковано 3 кві 2020
- This is the big one folks, strap in! We're escaping the system off an out of reach belay. It's long, there's lots of steps. Take a deep breath, stay calm and press play!
Please do fire away with any questions...
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Let us know how you get on practicing this one!
Tried it and got 3/4 of the way through it on the first attempt without the video playing but lost it just after you were tying the figure of 8 bit Will try again tomorrow.
Got it all right first go after trying it with the video, except the figure eight bit. I re tied the figure eight through the carabiner with the clove hitches on correctly, but attached a carabiner onto that carabiner for the Italian hitch rather than onto the figure eight loop. I’m guessing it needs to be done the way in the video so that the fig 8 loop is loaded, will try and remember that step next time!
By far the clearest climbing videos on UA-cam, and I've watched a lot recently! Great service to the climbing community, thanks!
Very kind, thank you!
Been meaning to learn this for so long. This video is really clear. Thank you so much for creating this content!
Pleasure!
Thanks!
My pleasure!
Hey, we're starters in multi pitch with my daughter, I badly needed your wisdom. Your videos on rescue procedures are really good!
Glad to help!
That’s another hour or so in the garage this afternoon..... Thanks Jez, it’s appreciated
Hope it went well!
Brilliant demo and inspired me to practise tomorrow, cheers Jez 👌
Two new things that I've never come across before but really like.
1. Using a shorter sling for the Klemhiest then attaching a locking karabiner to create a temporary masterpoint. Previously I've used a large 240 nylon sling as klemhiest direct to seperate French prussik, then tied an overhand or alpine butterfly part way to create a shelf for my interim Italian hitch and lanyard. Good to have another option should I not have my 240 anymore.
2. Re-threading the figure of Eight through the HMS with the clove hitch(es) on to create the new masterpoint. Previously I have untied everything below the klemhiest and tied a BFK for the new masterpoint. I realise now, that this runs the risk of having nothing to block the klemhiest, should it slip, until you have tied the BFK.
Cheers for the content again and I hope to get back on the rock again soon.
Absolute pleasure, yeah can't wait to get back out!
Always good to think about other options, sometimes that leaves you thinking your current way is what you prefer, but the more options the merrier!
Fantastic job, thanks.
Very very helpful, thanks for taking the time to create these guides 🙂
Great stuff!
Thanks JB. Great and very usefull video/videos!
My pleasure!
. Cheers for this - I have not tried or seen this before.
Pleasure!
Great instructional video thank you!
JB, thx for the great vid, I learned new techniques that I will certainly use if needed. I was wondering if you have done a video on a leader falling and being incapacitated. Since the belayers anchors are now most likely going to be below him or her, how would you un-weight that. Pls forgive if you already have a vid on this.
Great video again Jez!!!
Cheers!
Thanks for the very clear explanation! A lot of content but very well conveyed! Cheers Jez!!
Pleasure, George!
Another great video. Quite at lot going on in this one, gonna take a bit more practise this one. Thanks again for putting these videos together.
Absolute pleasure!
Great video JB, thanks for putting all these videos together!
I was inspired to have a play in the garden this afternoon (who wants to spend a sunny Easter in Gower anyway?!?).
It's been a few years since I had a practice and it wasn't as smooth as your demo, but it looks like they'll be plenty of time to get it nailed over the next few weeks!
Cheers.
Absolute pleasure, happy practicing!
great videos.
Thanks very much!
I am off on a 150m slab tomorrow, in Victoria, Australia. Miles from anyone. If my partner is on a ledge, I can see how your setup works. We could have a tight rope and half haul him up. If he is hanging unconscious I dont think I can get enough slack in the system to pass the rope through my carabiner. Or maybe the Simon Yates' solution?
Please correct me if I am wrong. You do not have to escape the system when belaying the second with reverso/atc/whatever in guide mode. Because you're already out of the system. Having quad/equalette anchor makes it even simpler. Is that correct? I do not understand British way of belaying the second from rope loop.
Great blog JB!
Could you add a vid on the next step, either rapping down a weighted rope and/or hauling your partner up.
Cheers again!
Cheers, glad you enjoyed it!
I've done a hauling and a prusiking video, check them out! (ua-cam.com/video/RWSVpnEQ-EY/v-deo.html)
There is a part 3 to this coming very soon though, to put it all together...
Is it a possibility to prusik each anchor leg independently then equalise them with a sling? Yes it would require a 3rd prusik and an additional sling but it would work better if the anchors were at a larger angle (not ideal but often the case) and also gives redundancy rather than having both lives reliant on the weakest element in the system?
If the angles are wide, thats a good way of sorting it, only thing is I tend to use slings as you can get loads of wraps around the rope.
Hi Jez, thanks for a great video, definitely the clearest I've seen using British conventions. Quick question: how does this change with half ropes? Do you put a prusik round both strands or one on each? Or do you just take all their weight on just one rope?
Cheers
Absolute pleasure! I would normally treat them as one rope and prusik around both.
Would a Mariners knot for the first prussik (with extended sling if required) attachment work better? Then you can flip the munter to lower mode, tighten, and then tie the mule. Also, curious why you don't set a catastrophe knot after locking off the belay device at the beginning?
Hi jez, really enjoying the info conveyed in this series! Question, why lock off the Italian hitch instead of turning it into a clove hitch?
Glad you've enjoyed them! It's to keep it releasable under load. Not sure which step you mean, but I want everything possible to be releasable under load when doing rescue stuff.
@@JBMountainSkills ahhh that makes perfect sense now thanks!
Why not clip your lanyard (if you can unweight it) to the original HMS instead of the Klemheist at 11:25, or to the shelf provided by the clove hitch/hitches on if you can't easily unweight and untie the figure 8? Clipping the Klemheist can loads it along with the fallen climber, and no backup when you untie. Am I missing something?
Enjoyed practicing this one, beats decorating that's for sure. One question on the final power point you created as you untied the original fig 8. This is with assessment in mind, which is why I'm getting into the detail but you didn't put in a stopper knot after the rethread. I'm assuming this is because you had a long tail but could you confirm or otherwise. Thanks for the films, certainly helping with being stuck at home.
Glad they've kept you busy!
I'm not worried about stoppers as long as you've got a nice neat, well dressed knot and a sensible tail.
Great video. Could you explain how to do a traverse rescue.
Cheers! It's on the list, just takes some figuring out from a filming point of view!
Hi there. Just wondered if when actually weighted it might be impossible to bring the anchor strands together wiith the klemheist?
Good question. I've practised this quite a lot and never had a problem with it, if they're super wide though, you can use a Klemheist on each side of the system and bring them together.
Hi Jez great videos, thanks. One question, in your set up you will only be able to rappel half the length of the rope remaining at the ledge with you. That could be insufficient if your mate is more than half rope length away. I guess you must replace the now on reach belays with slings, hoping you have enough. Sorry if you cover this in part 3 or 4. Thanks heaps!
That's correct. I think I talk about in later videos. You would have to do a bit of re jigging to solve that issue.
excellent and clear explanation ! Thx man ! Could you do a vid on how to haul your partner ? would be great, cheers !
On the list, probably coming this week!
Hi Jez, i was wondering what brand and size your sewn prusiks are? looking to replace some old ones and they look really convenient
Matthew Davies I use Simond sewn prusiks from Decathlon 👊
Love the videos!
QQ: On the second italian hitch, why did you choose not to use your belay plate?
likely to be Required for (extended) abseil to go and check on Ya dangling buddy. Cheers! :-j
Jez, I'm sure I'll be missing something obvious (shamefully) but why can't you use the HMS that the anchors are hitched to on your harness loop straight away instead of putting in the klemheist then eventually onto the HMS? I'm sure if I try this I'll see the answer for myself.
It's only obvious if you know!
It's because you'll need to untie the fig of 8 tie in loop that the hms is clipped to, so at some point the whole system would be unsafe when you untied yourself. because that fig 8 is one end of the system.
Hope that made sense!
@@JBMountainSkills I figured that would be the case but trying to work it through in my head isn't as clear as running though it (on the bannister 😁) Cheers Jez.
Hi Jez, If your using two half ropes are the steps exactly the same? just maybe needing a couple extra screwgates?
Yep, basically just treat the two ropes as one and it'll be the same!
JB... A great demo. I've a question....Why don't you include here why/how they could avoid this big cluster. If they learn to belay off an extended anchor.... Then they don't need to perform an escape since they are not part of the system! Much simpler and safer. NO? Thank you.
I've done other videos on it, my videos are usually too long as it is!
Simpler and safer? Sometimes yes, sometimes no, very much situation dependent.