10 min at each belay station on a 6 pitch climb is an extra hour on the wall, on a 12 pitch climb its 2 hours . With that many pitches, efficiency at the belay can mean the matter of having an epic into the night or getting of with just enough twilight for the decent . I loved this video!
Clipping the gear somewhere for transitions is great. A few thoughts: - My partner & I put it on the next leader's leash. It conveniently placed for the leader to rack up. Keeps the anchor clean (less stuff /clutter). - When I come up as a 2nd, I try to order the gear somewhat, say put the cam in order as opposed to just dumping them. Makes it easier for the next leader to pick whatever they want to rack up. - Whoever was seconding the pitch can put nuts back on biner, re-build any alpine that was extended, etc. As the next leader, it's nice to be able to focus on just racking up your stuff, and not having to re-build alpines or replace nuts and silly details like that. - For those things, it helps to have a regular partner. If you're swapping leads, developing those habits really makes things smoother. My partner & I aren't super efficient in general, but gear handling at belays works smoothly for us.
One fatal mistake to be aware of while tying your 2nd to the anchor when belaying with a guide mode device is to make sure you tie a clove hitch in the AIR and clip the whole thing at once if doing so in front of the belay device. Don't tie a one-handed clove as if your climber falls while only one strand is clipped then the belay device won't catch them. Alternative is to tie the clove hitch BEHIND the guide mode device, which will have a little more slack but you can snug it up once you pull the rope out of the device. See this SEIT video for a clearer explanation. It's a simple mistake that could have fatal consequences. ua-cam.com/video/s9np7B1Zao4/v-deo.html
Man, you're the Messi of explaining these things. I'm learning like a draaaagooooon!!! Going to the Urriellu in a week, just refreshing some stuff for peace of mind. Thanks a lot, cheers to you!
Have you made (or thought about making) a video on ways to communicate on multipitch climbing when you can't hear each other? Haven't yet found a very good way of doing that and would be interesting to hear your system.. love your videos and logical approach!
After watching your video about climbing mistakes, one you mentioned was clipping the first piece of gear you set up for the belay. It’s a nice thing to do as getting nuts in and pull testing pieces for the anchor can sometimes go wrong and send you off backwards. Great video I learned a lot!
Lol, I work in a climbing gym and every time I see your knot I always immediately think oh crap he hasn’t finished the follow through because of the end direction. I then remember oh yeah, my gym says no to anything but a figure 8 and we barely tolerate a stopper knot for some reason. I like your way to keep the end out of the way, it’s smart
A funny one this one, because despite being long I'm not sure how much content there is. I guess the main aim is to help you give some thought to time saving. Are you already efficient, could you save time?
am loving the anchor setup with just the rope, practiced my one handed clove hitch just for this. also the best reason for the follower then ltaking the next lead pitch, alot less gear swapping at the anchor at least i found this to be the case on afew multi pitch climbs, but do have to check who's gear is who's when you've finished but not like thats a bother anyway.
Another great video dude, always good for a bit of watching nerding out during breakfast time haha. I do love geeking out on rope work and gear especially with all the spare time we have. Some cool tips here, nice one!.
Subbed!, surprised you're only on just over 1K mate, you make a good teacher! Ive been sending your vids to my mate thats got a tiny bit of exp in outdoor climbing, see you on the hills!
@@JBMountainSkills Just an idea but you could upload alpine mountaineering stuff, crevasse rescue techniques, we have a different way of doing that say the French, then the Americans have their way etc! All the best!
Just a safety when you the carabiner on the shelf you start add weird loads to the carabiner and there by drastically lowering the strength of the carabiner because carabiners are only really meant to be loaded along the spine
Amazing vids mate, Great content. If you were block leading multipitch then, does that mean you would always have to build your belay stations out of slings and couldn’t use the rope method? Learning loads from your vids 👍🏻
Glad you've enjoyed them :) You don't need to, but it certainly makes things a bit more efficient. If you built it out of rope, the second would normally have to do similar, which is cool, just a little slower.
one thing I have to make progress is doing choices. Last month we were on a ridge sport climbing route (ua-cam.com/video/0TgKqlU8e1o/v-deo.html) with many small pitches and many small rappels/abseilings and we wanted to save some time and we read that some or all of the rappels could be made by down climbing. And some pitches could also be made in one pitch instead of two. For one of the pitches I was leading, at some point I coulnd't decide if it was safe for the second to downclimb, but it was my partner who was more willing to be fast. So after some minutes I decided to downclimb. no pitons but it looked like I put one or two slings around rocks. After that the pitch was going up again before the anchors/relay. Then the two slings got out because they were pulled up by my rope going up, so my partner arrived and we had to decide if he "free soloed" the down climb or make a rappel with the spare rope. The situations got very sketchy and we (me!) wasted a lot of time where a rapid abseiling would have been finally shorter and more safe! (he finally decided to free solo down climb, it was pretty easy.
I alway ask my partner (when I'm staying on the lead) to gather all the gear on their way up on a sling over their shoulder. That way when they reach me they just hand me the entire sling with all the gear in one go. DO NOT DROP IT :-p When swapping leads the lead climber gathers everything on a sling when belaying so he can hand that over to the 2nd
Why do you use so much the rope loop instead of using the belay loop? Some other question... If I use cord instead of using slings for the belay station, which diameter should I use? Thanks so much, I really like your videos, really good content. Cheers
Glad you've liked the videos! Good question... I've done another video about the rope loop: ua-cam.com/video/rpiPEsyKJ08/v-deo.html I'd recommend 7mm cord :)
But with the rope anchor: to clean it looks like a hot mess...I mean you'd have a lot of rope out while cleaning the anchor. Also why not use a gri gri?
Was that where I did it to go hands free on a change over when on a big ledge? If so, yep you could clove hitch to something, it's just probably quicker to do a rapid overhand.
Question about stripping the route as a second: When retrieving a nut/cam from a placement, should it be just racked on your harness with the quickdraw however it goes and it all gets sorted back onto their respective carabiners (talking more nuts here I guess) at the belay? Or is it more efficient to try to organise them as you go?
Good question! If it's really easy climbing I might make an effort to sort stuff as I go, but 99% I just leave it on the draw and sort it out at the belay.
Hey Jez. Im pretty new to half ropes as been a sport climber but getting into trad more and just got some half ropes, whats you preferred way to flip the ropes at a belay? been playing around at home and sometimes gets a bit messy haha. I got two 60 meter ropes. Be cool to hear your thoughts on it. Cheers Mike
Want to buy me a coffee or the boy a dog treat?! www.buymeacoffee.com/jbmountain
10 min at each belay station on a 6 pitch climb is an extra hour on the wall, on a 12 pitch climb its 2 hours . With that many pitches, efficiency at the belay can mean the matter of having an epic into the night or getting of with just enough twilight for the decent . I loved this video!
Glad you liked it 👊
Man, your clear as a window, thanks a lot. Learning a lot. Cheers from Spain!
Hola! Muy amable, gracias!
Clipping the gear somewhere for transitions is great. A few thoughts:
- My partner & I put it on the next leader's leash. It conveniently placed for the leader to rack up. Keeps the anchor clean (less stuff /clutter).
- When I come up as a 2nd, I try to order the gear somewhat, say put the cam in order as opposed to just dumping them. Makes it easier for the next leader to pick whatever they want to rack up.
- Whoever was seconding the pitch can put nuts back on biner, re-build any alpine that was extended, etc. As the next leader, it's nice to be able to focus on just racking up your stuff, and not having to re-build alpines or replace nuts and silly details like that.
- For those things, it helps to have a regular partner. If you're swapping leads, developing those habits really makes things smoother.
My partner & I aren't super efficient in general, but gear handling at belays works smoothly for us.
Thanks for sharing the tips :)
Did the smoke alarm start beeping away on the first take 😂.
Brill videos, part of my morning coffee routine now mate, cheers!
Wondered when that’d get a mention 😂😂😂
One fatal mistake to be aware of while tying your 2nd to the anchor when belaying with a guide mode device is to make sure you tie a clove hitch in the AIR and clip the whole thing at once if doing so in front of the belay device. Don't tie a one-handed clove as if your climber falls while only one strand is clipped then the belay device won't catch them. Alternative is to tie the clove hitch BEHIND the guide mode device, which will have a little more slack but you can snug it up once you pull the rope out of the device. See this SEIT video for a clearer explanation. It's a simple mistake that could have fatal consequences.
ua-cam.com/video/s9np7B1Zao4/v-deo.html
Wow, I never thought about that. Another great reason to avoid using the guide for this purpose, there's just so much that can go wrong.
Man, you're the Messi of explaining these things. I'm learning like a draaaagooooon!!! Going to the Urriellu in a week, just refreshing some stuff for peace of mind. Thanks a lot, cheers to you!
Very kind :)
Have you made (or thought about making) a video on ways to communicate on multipitch climbing when you can't hear each other? Haven't yet found a very good way of doing that and would be interesting to hear your system.. love your videos and logical approach!
Nice coverage of basic methods for multipitch belaying. Cheers.
Cheers!
Excellent!!! 👍
After watching your video about climbing mistakes, one you mentioned was clipping the first piece of gear you set up for the belay. It’s a nice thing to do as getting nuts in and pull testing pieces for the anchor can sometimes go wrong and send you off backwards. Great video I learned a lot!
Lol, I work in a climbing gym and every time I see your knot I always immediately think oh crap he hasn’t finished the follow through because of the end direction. I then remember oh yeah, my gym says no to anything but a figure 8 and we barely tolerate a stopper knot for some reason. I like your way to keep the end out of the way, it’s smart
thanks for that!
A funny one this one, because despite being long I'm not sure how much content there is. I guess the main aim is to help you give some thought to time saving. Are you already efficient, could you save time?
am loving the anchor setup with just the rope, practiced my one handed clove hitch just for this. also the best reason for the follower then ltaking the next lead pitch, alot less gear swapping at the anchor at least i found this to be the case on afew multi pitch climbs, but do have to check who's gear is who's when you've finished but not like thats a bother anyway.
Another great video dude, always good for a bit of watching nerding out during breakfast time haha. I do love geeking out on rope work and gear especially with all the spare time we have. Some cool tips here, nice one!.
Great videos Jez, keep it up!
Cheers bud, hope you're well!
Subbed!, surprised you're only on just over 1K mate, you make a good teacher! Ive been sending your vids to my mate thats got a tiny bit of exp in outdoor climbing, see you on the hills!
Awesome, thank you!
@@JBMountainSkills Just an idea but you could upload alpine mountaineering stuff, crevasse rescue techniques, we have a different way of doing that say the French, then the Americans have their way etc! All the best!
Brilliant Video. Really Enjoyed it😀👍
Just a safety when you the carabiner on the shelf you start add weird loads to the carabiner and there by drastically lowering the strength of the carabiner because carabiners are only really meant to be loaded along the spine
Amazing vids mate, Great content. If you were block leading multipitch then, does that mean you would always have to build your belay stations out of slings and couldn’t use the rope method? Learning loads from your vids 👍🏻
Glad you've enjoyed them :)
You don't need to, but it certainly makes things a bit more efficient. If you built it out of rope, the second would normally have to do similar, which is cool, just a little slower.
one thing I have to make progress is doing choices. Last month we were on a ridge sport climbing route (ua-cam.com/video/0TgKqlU8e1o/v-deo.html) with many small pitches and many small rappels/abseilings and we wanted to save some time and we read that some or all of the rappels could be made by down climbing. And some pitches could also be made in one pitch instead of two. For one of the pitches I was leading, at some point I coulnd't decide if it was safe for the second to downclimb, but it was my partner who was more willing to be fast. So after some minutes I decided to downclimb. no pitons but it looked like I put one or two slings around rocks. After that the pitch was going up again before the anchors/relay. Then the two slings got out because they were pulled up by my rope going up, so my partner arrived and we had to decide if he "free soloed" the down climb or make a rappel with the spare rope. The situations got very sketchy and we (me!) wasted a lot of time where a rapid abseiling would have been finally shorter and more safe! (he finally decided to free solo down climb, it was pretty easy.
I alway ask my partner (when I'm staying on the lead) to gather all the gear on their way up on a sling over their shoulder. That way when they reach me they just hand me the entire sling with all the gear in one go. DO NOT DROP IT :-p
When swapping leads the lead climber gathers everything on a sling when belaying so he can hand that over to the 2nd
Great tip, that can work really well :)
The Lindybeige of climbing?
What stopper are you tying on your knot there? I like how the end is out of the way.
Yosemite finish with an extra wrap :)
ua-cam.com/video/-ciyu7D-DwU/v-deo.html
@@JBMountainSkills Thanks
Why do you use so much the rope loop instead of using the belay loop?
Some other question... If I use cord instead of using slings for the belay station, which diameter should I use?
Thanks so much, I really like your videos, really good content.
Cheers
Glad you've liked the videos!
Good question... I've done another video about the rope loop: ua-cam.com/video/rpiPEsyKJ08/v-deo.html
I'd recommend 7mm cord :)
@@JBMountainSkills cool! Thank you so much!
What do you know about fire safety?
what tie in knot are you using it’s not a rethreaded 8
Can't remember the video but probably a rethreaded fig of 8 with a hybrid Yosemite finish.
But with the rope anchor: to clean it looks like a hot mess...I mean you'd have a lot of rope out while cleaning the anchor. Also why not use a gri gri?
It can be, sometimes it’s the right answer, sometimes it’s not.
On the last setup, instead of doing a over hand knot with the spare rope that's dangling. Could you do a clove hitch onto a carabiner/belay plate?
Was that where I did it to go hands free on a change over when on a big ledge? If so, yep you could clove hitch to something, it's just probably quicker to do a rapid overhand.
Question about stripping the route as a second: When retrieving a nut/cam from a placement, should it be just racked on your harness with the quickdraw however it goes and it all gets sorted back onto their respective carabiners (talking more nuts here I guess) at the belay? Or is it more efficient to try to organise them as you go?
Good question! If it's really easy climbing I might make an effort to sort stuff as I go, but 99% I just leave it on the draw and sort it out at the belay.
Hey Jez. Im pretty new to half ropes as been a sport climber but getting into trad more and just got some half ropes, whats you preferred way to flip the ropes at a belay? been playing around at home and sometimes gets a bit messy haha. I got two 60 meter ropes. Be cool to hear your thoughts on it. Cheers Mike
Feels like that may need a video at some point to do it justice..!
@@JBMountainSkills A video on that would be awesome mate. Would love to see how you go about it, i just seem to get in a bit of a faff haha.
the dan hardy of climbing