Scrambling / Mountaineering part 2. Scrambling techniques such as chest / alpine coils and belays.
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- Опубліковано 30 кві 2020
- Scrambling / mountaineering chat part 2 isn’t quite as long as part 1! This one is about the techniques needed, but keep in mind it’s only an overview, there’s so many variables with this kind of thing.
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My mate jack and I did JBs advanced scrambling course a month ago it was extremely valuable. It is all well and good learning the theory but you can't beat getting out there and doing it in person with a quality guide like JB said. I had zero knowledge of climbing prior to the course but now im hooked and in a couple of weeks we are coming back up to give it another go alone!! Thanks once again mate!
Cheers Ben!
Another great one Jez.... that’s the clearest demonstration of taking coils I’ve seen.... 😀
Very kind, thank you!
I was thinking about this in bed this morning. Get home from the gym and boom, here it is in my recommendations. I think the algorithm is scanning my brain.
Haha!
Great video, really informative. Just what I needed. Used to rock climbing and these skills are similar but different enough that this was invaluable
Glad it was useful!
Another great video. I started with doing a scramble with ropes course and it was great fun and led me onto climbing.
It's a great way to get in to it!
I have a video suggestion: could you cover belaying using your hip / back etc? I'm interested in how that fits between 'proper anchor' and 'no anchor' situations.
Thanks for the excellent videos!
great clear vid Jez. a nice refresh.
Glad it helped!
Fantastic Videos JB.. really enjoying them. Cheers
Glad you like them!
Brilliant video thank you!!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Hahaha! You crack me up 😂! Awesome videos mate! Love ya work
Glad you liked it!
Really useful.. great communicator!
Glad it was helpful!
Best one yet Jez. I am biased as I love the all encompassing journeying that scrambling/mountaineering gives you.
What factors do you take into account when working out how much rope to leave between your self and partner?
Good question!
If I'm pitching I wan the least amount of rope out, that'll get me to the next belay, less rope, less faff.
If I'm moving together, as little as possible (stretch and any slack make it harder to hold your mate), but enough to not be tripping over each other and allowing us some space on the rock steps we might encounter.
It's almost a dark art...!
Really great video....well done indoors as well :)) !!
Thanks a lot!
Fantastic videos,really well explained even for this 52yo newbie to understand,I started backing /hiking the gr10 this year in the Pyrenees(luckily I live in the Ariège)and I’m keen to climb the pic d’aneto in October if the weathers good enough do you have any advice climbing the last 30meters of this as I heard/seen on UA-cam it’s a bit tricky,I’ll be climbing by myself.would love to come and do a course in the future.
Do you offer anything out this way😉
Hey! Glad you liked it :)
Afraid not! I do go to Spain but only for selfish personal climbing!
Great video as always!!! Learning so much from you! One question tho: @16:23 you say that we could clip the second carabiner on the shelf of the sling...wouldn't that cause the carabiner to slip off in case any one of the two strands failed?
Glad you liked it!
If you clip into the shelf (through each loop) then it's got the redundancy so if one side fails, it'll still be clipped in to the other side.
I left a comment on the last video and you kind of touched on it in this video. I would love to hear your thoughts about hikes off trail in the wilderness that are skirting the edge of the in between you described.
Hi ! excellent video for things we don't often see... in video!
I am interested into a chat about the choice of the lenght between partners regarding the type of terrain! many things to say
Another great video.
Just curious, what are your thoughts on moving together on steeper ground but leader placing gear and second ensuring there's no too much slack between each other? Of course, this takes experience and practise.
Cheers!
Good question, it's definitely a great tactic when used appropriately, but requires shed loads of experience and judgement to be done well...
I've seen people doing this on tryfan Bach.
It looked like they always had three nuts in-between them so should be fairly safe. Well, safe-ish.
Either way, great place to practice it.
Great video!
Thanks 👊
Great videos Jez, many thanks. I started climbing in the 1980s doing the big classic VDiffs. Back then the first belay we'd think to use would be wrapping the climbing rope round a spike or tree etc and tying it back into the tie-in loop with a figure 8. No extra gear needed, no added links in the chain. I'm interested why that's not even considered now for scrambling (or is it?). Cheers! J
Hi John, we still use that method sometimes!
This guy can explain how to poach an egg in only 30 steps and make it extremely interesting 😂
How about descending in this kind of terrain? And do you have any tips for very slippery ground, with maybe loose rock or dirt?
Quick question for you: I took one of my 50m twin ropes out for a spot of mountaineering yesterday in the snow. I could have taken my 30m triple rated rope, but didn't as I wanted the extra length if we were to need a longer rappel down something (we didn't). Do you see anything wrong with using a single twin rope for this?
Cheers for some excellent content!
It's something that's done quite often, but is against the manufacturers guidelines.... The issue normally boils down to less edge resistance.
It's something I do, but I do make some careful judgements and in my mind isn't a "normal" thing to do. Hard to recommend it...
@@JBMountainSkills thanks...
Thanks
Thaaaaaaanks!
Flipping ace. 👊. Any recommendations for books that cover this? So much to learn...
Mountain Training publish a book called Rock Climbing that covers most stuff :)
On what grade of scramble do you start to bring gear, or do you bring the same kit regardless of grade? Any scrambling situations you would just bring a confidence rope and no trad gear? Ps, you got the name spot on!
Glad I got your name right, thanks for the prompt!
Grade 1 = no gear except confidence rope
Grade 3 = gear
Grade 2 = it depends...! If I'm working I would normally take gear, how much is very route dependent
I know that's a bit vague, sorry, kind of just the way scrambling is!
JB Mountain Skills scrambling is a very vague in many ways, for my personal scrambling it’s very route dependent on what I bring, and who is joining me as well.
@@JBMountainSkills how could a confidence rope be used in a party? Is there anything between single rope and fair amount of gear?
Awesome! I don't mind the waffle! My learning is going through the roof! I'll be spending my redundancy wisely ;-0
I'm glad you like the waffle!!!
JB Mountain Skills Waffle in a good way! 😂 No nonsense type of waffle. Educational👍🏻
walking like Gollum, lol 😂
Kiwi coil I see all over the Internet. Seems to be the way to do Crevasse rescue. What is the best coiling sistem?
Kiwi coils are a good way for sure. If I'm on crevassed terrain, I might be inclined to have a pre rigged Prusik, but that's another video. I don't go in for "best" ways to be honest, you end up finding what you prefer by trying loads of different ways. You'll see loads of ways of tying off coils, as long as they work it's all good.
never really done any proper scrambeling, so me and my mate thought it would be a good idear to do castle rige on ben nevis, as a warm up for tower ridge never did it in the end, prob just as well, due to the wether being rubbish, as even though we both go rock climbing a fare bit it would still be a challange!! dose look awesome though. one day maby......
Really liked the video 😀. When roped up with your coils, how much length do you leave between yourself and your partner and how many hand coils do you take.? Hopefully I've made the question clear.
Copy and pasted this one. Your question is clear, my answer less so..!
Good question!
If I'm pitching I wan the least amount of rope out, that'll get me to the next belay, less rope, less faff.
If I'm moving together, as little as possible (stretch and any slack make it harder to hold your mate), but enough to not be tripping over each other and allowing us some space on the rock steps we might encounter.
It's almost a dark art...!
Thank you ! Is this something you teach on your scrambling courses ?
Luke Thornton it is indeed 👊
Really enjoying your videos Jez, Thank you. I think a big part of the judgement comes down to experience and practice so its very very hard to teach from sling Mountain but you are doing a fantastic job. I was on Cneifion Arete yesterday with my Girlfriend, I've soloed it a few times but I think it works well pitching up to the top of the chimney and then moving on a short rope. We tried moving together with three/four pieces of gear between us but it felt unnecessary. And this is where the personal experience thing comes in. I guess its about what feels right for your team. Thanks again, really enjoying your videos, they have kept me entertained through Lockdown. Keep it up and don't worry about being too polished, personally goes a long way :-)
Glad you've enjoyed them and hope you had an ace day out, must've been lush up there in the sun :)
would you just use a normal belay plate to belay the leader, or would you use body belays etc on easier terrain?
Good question that! You can belay a leader on a body belay, but I wouldn't out of choice, I'd take a regular belay plate and use that.
I got 10m of cheap thick static rope from V12 cut into 2m lengths for disposable ab tat/threads. I think its about £1.50 a meter. Ive never had to use one so far.
Only 12 routes left to tick in the Steve Ashton guide! 😁
Hi, would you be able to substitute an Italian hitch for an ATC
If you want to direct belay it would be best to substitute the Italian with a ATC Guide or similar guide mode device, if you didn't want to use an Italian.
Based on this video, what is the correct "Safe" way to move together when you are not belaying to minimize the chances both of you falling off?
if both are the same level, dont use the rope. If one is way better, he should lead with the other on a short rope of 1-2m.
But i am no guide, this is just how we (montaineers in switzerland) do it climbing II and I (UIAA) climbing but at III (Matterhorn for example) we mostly use the techniques shown in the video. Mostly the III climbing is way longer and there is no defined pitch. So every two or three meter we use the rope around a rockspike to belay for the short distance. This way we move fast. It's to slow to put a sling around every rock.
@@steinstolper Thank you, that make a lot of sense. The reason I ask is that I plan to climb Mt Russel in the Eastern Sierras and it has a small section that is a Arête with high exposure and was considering giving myself some protection.
I hope to to Matterhorn someday soon.
Good question, I'll think about a video... In essence it's easy, but it does require a massive amount of judgement.
Rule #1. They look bad in photos. 🤣
looking cool #1, safety meh around 4thish. he's not lying lol, its all calculations of how dangerous is this vs how awesome of a photo it could produce. dont end up like brad tho, knot the end of the rope for raps
The last one was too long…. Don’t think so, enjoyed the last video
Hard to get the balance right!