I ALMOST THREW this 3D Printer in the GARBAGE (CR10 V3 Fix)
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- Опубліковано 28 лип 2024
- Nothing is more frustrating than getting into 3D printing and buying a printer that gives you nothing but problems. I loved my CR10 V3 at first but lately it has a well documented leveling issue (see reddit posts). I decided to take one last jab at this thing and fix it once and for all but you know what? I am printing butter smooth with the ELEGOO Neptune 3
It's auto level feature is incredible! Check it out!
🔥🔥🔥shrsl.com/3o3kn
Update** I was right, there is something wrong with the CR10 series.
See how I found out in this video!
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Chapters
0:00 Intro to Creality CR10 Level Issue
1:32 Known and Documented Issues with the CR10 printers
2:28 What I have tried to level the CR10
4:58 New Hot End Extruder/heat block problem and alignment issue
5:45 Disassembling the CR10 Extruder Hot End
7:37 Reassembling the CR10 Extruder Hot End
9:12 Good Morning Tea and Leveling Plan
10:10 Leveling the CR10 Bed
11:07 ELEGOO Neptune 3 Printing Perfectly Smooth like Butter like a Criminal Undercover
11:26 First Print on CR10 after leveling
13:03 Results and Review of the CR10 Leveling Experiment
14:35 Why I don't recommend the CR10 anymore
15:00 BUY MY HOLSTERS FOR THE OCULUS QUEST 2/METAQUEST
16:20 Robot Karen wants to speak to the manager
17:03 Smooth AF Outro
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You shouldnt have to replace or repair anything when you purchase a brand new printer... That being said. I bought one of these during the recent sale. Right away i had problems leveling and most importantly keeping the bed level. After some trial and error i realized that the bed springs were starting to sag the more heat soaked they got. I had not even printed anything big. Within 3 days of having the printer i decided to print some PACF bed spring spacers and compress the springs a little more. This worked like a charm!!! But because im a little crazy about stuff like this and i dont want future problems, i did a quick search and found some silicone solid bed mounts FYSETC $11 on amazon. With these i was able to manually level the bed perfectly. They still provide a little squish for leveling the bed while maintaining the functionality of a solid bed mount. Heat bed, tighten then adjust. I then installed BL Touch $50 on creality store and Nic's updated marlin firmware $0. Nic's firmware is amazing, you can find this group on facebook. After that it was like a whole new printer! The bed levels and keeps its level very easily. Updated marlin FW has the Z offset tool built in, again amazing. Add G29 after G28 to your slicer gcode to auto bed level before every print and VOILA! I also did a few preemptive things including a new PTFE tube in the hotend. I used capricorn tubing $12 on amazon. Turns out the factory ptfe tube was short by a few mm and is prone to melting. So after a little measuring i cut and replaced the tube with one the proper length that is much better quality. I also replaced the bed with a spring steel magnetic PEI bed sheet for easy print removal $35 on amazon. For good measure i installed the Z sync kit from Tiny Machines $15. After all of that was done, i calibrated E steps then went through "Teaching Tech" entire calibration walkthrough. Again i say "you shouldnt have to replace or repair anything when you purchase a brand new printer". BUT!!!! if you have already purchased the printer and aren't in need of a huge paper weight, i think these options might be for you. There are a few other things i printed mods for like the filament sensor to angle it so it feeds from the roll better without binding. A cable chain for the hotend wiring and a few other little things. Hopefully this helps. I was trying not to pull my hair out while figuring this all out. I dont have much hair to spare. Happy Printing!!
Wow! That is crazy! I made a video about what I called their recent "Firesale" but I'm sincerely glad you got it working because when it works it can print big things like helmets so well. Thanks for the advice for others to see.
@@Kimchi_Studios I watched the video about the fire sale after I watched this one. It prompted me to come back and share my experience lol.
Nic makes a great FW. I also run it on my V3. I'm wondering why he is printing on the back side of the glass plate?
omg the stuff ive had to do to my cr10v3..... replaced the top frame cross member with steel as it was twisted. retapped the angle support rods with left and right handed threads so it can telescope by the eyelet joints to adjust the tilted Z frame. had to rebuild the hotend a half dozen times - welded the wiring back onto the hotend when it broke. ive had to replace the fans. i had to machine the bed (hot plate) as it was heavily warped. recalibrate all steppers (they were all off by at least .75mm), firmware flash, bltouch addon. repalced the fan in teh control box, shimmed the bed by over 5mm as it was too low to allow the hotend to reach out of hte box (like lead screws on Z bottomed out when it was 4.5mm away from the bed surface). lots of work to square hte frame - welded gussets at 90 angles and drilled/tapped all corners to addon support form steel. it was all out of true from factory. my gantry extrusion was 2.27mm bowed downward in the middle (concave to the bed) so the center was always a 'high spot' when leveling.... from factory the bed was lopsided, z axis out of sync (had to buy that sync kit to belt them together) im sure there is more but this is all i got for now
idk. ill NEVER recommend a creality to anyone, ever... but fuck if i didnt learn a lot with this as my first 3D printer...
The issue you had with having to change the bedscrew height during printing is well documented and a combination of 2 things (neither of which has anything to do with the bed moving... its actually your gantry getting out of alignment & the right side being pulled up)
Here are the 2 things causing the issue:
1) Filament tension pulling the print head up, from a badly designed filament arm & runout sensor placement.
2) Z-Axis motors being independent & not maintaining sync with eachother (the right side drops when powered off... and then gets pulled up during prints by the filament tension)
The two fixes are:
* Replace the high-drag filament arm with something like "Filler" from Thingiverse. Full name "Filler - The Customizable Filament Holder that fills your printer!".
This will also stop your filament rolls from grinding and leaving a fine plastic dust on the arm that can fall onto prints. You might also want to remove the runout sensor if you're OK with that, to get even less resistance / "pull" on the filament.
* install a Z-Axis Sync Kit to keep both axis aligned (works during printing AND when powered off to stop drift).
These consist of 2x of GT2 pulleys & 1x of GT2 6mm closed loop belt. It is installed at the top of the Z-Axis leadscrews and locks them together so both sides go up & down at the same speed to eliminate the drift you are having.
Doing both of these upgrades means you'll almost NEVER have to realign the print bed, tram the printer, etc. I can not print for over a year... come back and do multi-day prints... and never have to touch alignment to keep each corner within 0.004 mm. If I want to bother doing tramming... I can get tolerances of each corner down to 0.001mm with the ABL below (I use a CR-Touch).
Also, you said that you'd not advise anyone get a CR-10 v3 because it lacks the ability to self-level... but you can buy aftermarket ABL (Auto Bed Leveling) systems like the BL-Touch or CR-Touch that are installed by simply screwing them onto the print head (there are provided screw holes on the head already), plugging them in & updating the firmware to use Nic's firmware (available from the "Files" section of the facebook group "Nic's 3D Printer Firmware & 3D Printing Support")
Thx for the detailed help. Hope others see this!
@@Kimchi_Studios No worries, I hope others see this too :)
If you are still using the CR-10 v3 and having those issues, though, it could be a good set of upgrades to make an educational video about too?
They are relatively cheap (the "Filler" arm is basically free) and they solve a whole host of CR-10 v3 issues, improving print quality, reliability, etc.
when it comes to leveling the bed always heat up both the bed and nozzle while doing it as materials expand/contract when heated also the BL touch upgrade works wonders with bed leveling i have this printer and it works great you just gotta know what your doing
Was the sax music chosen due to the fact that you have to make love to this thing in order for it to work properly?🤣
EXPOSED!!!! 🤣
CR-10 V1 owner for 10 years and bed leveling was the worst issue with this printer. Bought a Bambu A1 for Christmas and it’s so easy to get perfect prints off this printer. I still have and run my CR-10 for now but I’m fast becoming one of those Bambu fan boys now.
Good to know, that thing looks solid!
Get an ABL Bltouch, PEI magnetic build sheet, silicone stands, and it will transform the machine.
Then add Klipper with input shaping and pressure advance and you will get Bambu quality and 40% faster than a stock CR-10.
@@mandoreforger6999 I did all that by buying the CR-10 Smart Pro, well everything but the Kipper part and I'm considering doing that too. I was eyeing the Sonic Pads but should probably just do it the hard way with an arduino, I would learn more this way too.
You can buy an auto-leveling kit for CR-10 for like $50. Add silicone bed stands and a PEI magnetic build sheet.
It will change your life.
Then add Klipper with input shaping and pressure advance and high flow hotend and you can get better prints 40% less time.
How much does klipper costs?
@@EldenNoCuts you can add a Kipper pad on sale for about $90. Big tree tech or Creality.
@@mandoreforger6999 i just got my cr10 v3 yesterday in this case i just ordered the cr touch, and im going to replace the bed springs for some hard pieces I found, also i see that z sync kit from tiny machines is worth the try, is it?
CR10-V3? Where are the diagonal braces on the front of the printer? Mine has these...I did have leveling problems until I replaced the entire extruder with a factory assembled unit from Creality, I thought my hot end was defective because I could not change tips (-found out that works a lot better if you change the tips when hot - OOPS! RTFD). Printer works perfectly now, only need to relevel (Tram) the unit once every 8-10 prints with a piece of paper. Have printed several large (2-3 day prints) with no further problems. I use mostly Hatchbox PLA, and sometimes Amazon branded filaments for specific colors that Hatchbox does not have or Amazon is out of.
Creality is a low budget printer company. They recently had a firesale discounting this printer 50% off. The title of the email was "Defective Item Sale"...I made a video about it. Then, creality sent out the same promo email but the title now said "Defective Item Sale, Nothing Wrong Basically". See my community tab post for the screenshot. They are the chevy spark of printers. A fun idea for beginners full of regret and wasted time fixing and leveling. Everyone I talk to that has experience with Creality printers tells me that they replaced an even crappier brand of printer that no longer exists. The braces are good for swinging the printer around the room when it needs a reality check.
you never cease to amaze
Thank you Steve! Glad to have you here!
This makes me feel less crazy. We recently had one of these donated to our new robotics team and I am losing my mind trying to get it working properly. Its days are numbered here! I am completely new to 3D printing and I am thinking I am probably going to have to get our team something different.
Yeah I feel your pain. I recommend something with auto leveling at this point, but I still find myself still wasting time just getting used to the nuances of each machine, like a European luxury sport car mechanic. I have the basic Elegoo Neptune 3 and its ok although they have bigger options now. Good luck!
you can add a bltouch or crtouch and update the marlin.. 😬
I researched the BL Touch before I even bought the CR-10. The results people were reporting were mixed. The CR touch reddit ain't looking too good either. The printer still infamously has a problem staying level on one side. 😬
You forgot to throw the audio out of sync in the intro 🤣🤣🤣
Damn! You're right!!! 🤣
This video is on par 😂, still might throw mine away
My bearing for the gear style dial on the extruder just disintegrated today Had this same convo with myself 🤣
Get rid of that hotend and buy a Biqu H2 extruder. So much better. Brackets for mounting it are already on Thingiverse.
Creality just sent promo emails selling this thing half priced listed as DEFECTIVE.
I TOLD YOU SO.
FFS. Subscribe or miss out on crucial info that can save you time and money! Check the link for the cheaper, better Neptune 3.
See my community post for the pic from the email.