These are shielded bearings, you will be lucky if any of that grease actually makes it inside the bearing. You could swap to and equivalent sealed bearing size and even upgrade to high quality bearing from NSK or SKF. The bearings should far outlive the rollers themselves.
100% correct, will be very lucky if anything gets in without a proper grease pusher. Probably doing more damage then good with all that grease. Dust is the enemy in this configuration, Grease and Dust are not friends. If your'e going to grease the bearings on the outside dust cover are a must. Premature wear and tear is the only result of this particular method. Great to watch and appreciate the video though. Always cool to see other makers on here 👍🏼
Is there a continuation to this video? Can’t seem to find it. I also bought the blue leveling wheels with the spacers. I planned to use a bl touch but unfortunately they sent the wrong one. Did you use the spacers without a touch? Looking forward to seeing the next video!
I'm getting my CR-10 V3 next week ;) thanx to your chanel I found out so many important tips and tricks! Thank you for that! I'm wondering the two blue boxes you have under your printer... did you design thme by yourself? Or can I find them some weher to print myself?
I found them on thingiverse. The CR10 V2/V3 share the same frame as the CR10 so most things are compatible. Unfortunately, I can't find the post that contains the boxes any more.
Interesting upgrade to the bed. Is the resin knob file available? They do look good in that transparent finish. Just picked up a used V3, an amazing amount of things wrong with it too. Watching anything I can to learn about upgrades and repairs. My E3P and CR-10 do not have direct drive so it is a nice upgrade. Thanks for the video! On to the next one...
Yes. And don't. In fact, regular PTFE tubes have a problem too; too many fake tubes that have a 180C max temp. Capricorn would work in theory, but it's so tight that the heat causes it to expand closing the already tight tolerances to the point it causes binding. You're better off with the non-capricorn high-temp variants.
Hey, I was curious about why you have those pieces of Aluminum Tape on the center of your hotbed? Was it because you could get every corner to level perfect but not the center?
I usually run until a problem arises. The time frame is about a month of constant printing. Sometimes it isn't needed, but I do it anyway knowing if I don't I'm going to fight a print as it won't work right if I don't.
These are shielded bearings, you will be lucky if any of that grease actually makes it inside the bearing. You could swap to and equivalent sealed bearing size and even upgrade to high quality bearing from NSK or SKF. The bearings should far outlive the rollers themselves.
They are shielded but they aren't sealed. So grease gets in there just fine. But, a pair of sealed bearings will last much longer.
Yes. These bearings ARE sealed. So greasing them made no difference.
100% correct, will be very lucky if anything gets in without a proper grease pusher. Probably doing more damage then good with all that grease. Dust is the enemy in this configuration, Grease and Dust are not friends. If your'e going to grease the bearings on the outside dust cover are a must. Premature wear and tear is the only result of this particular method. Great to watch and appreciate the video though. Always cool to see other makers on here 👍🏼
Is there a continuation to this video? Can’t seem to find it. I also bought the blue leveling wheels with the spacers. I planned to use a bl touch but unfortunately they sent the wrong one. Did you use the spacers without a touch? Looking forward to seeing the next video!
Go to my playlists, there is a Creality playlist where I keep posting additions to the upgrades.
I'm getting my CR-10 V3 next week ;) thanx to your chanel I found out so many important tips and tricks! Thank you for that! I'm wondering the two blue boxes you have under your printer... did you design thme by yourself? Or can I find them some weher to print myself?
I found them on thingiverse. The CR10 V2/V3 share the same frame as the CR10 so most things are compatible. Unfortunately, I can't find the post that contains the boxes any more.
Interesting upgrade to the bed. Is the resin knob file available? They do look good in that transparent finish. Just picked up a used V3, an amazing amount of things wrong with it too. Watching anything I can to learn about upgrades and repairs. My E3P and CR-10 do not have direct drive so it is a nice upgrade. Thanks for the video! On to the next one...
I found the video searching Bed Know on Thingiverse. Unfortunately, I can't find the exact one again. Just look for ones that need a Nylock nut.
Have you ever thought of using Capricorn PTFE tube?
Yes. And don't. In fact, regular PTFE tubes have a problem too; too many fake tubes that have a 180C max temp. Capricorn would work in theory, but it's so tight that the heat causes it to expand closing the already tight tolerances to the point it causes binding. You're better off with the non-capricorn high-temp variants.
Hey, I was curious about why you have those pieces of Aluminum Tape on the center of your hotbed? Was it because you could get every corner to level perfect but not the center?
That's almost exactly right. The center was lower than the corners and adding the aluminum tape raised it just enough that it is flat enough.
It is hard to find rollers on amazon that have consistent good reviews. Are you happy with the rollers that you installed?
I am. The load on the bearings aren't extensive and even cheap bearings perform well with adequate lubrication.
How many hours did you print before you started this maintenance?
I usually run until a problem arises. The time frame is about a month of constant printing. Sometimes it isn't needed, but I do it anyway knowing if I don't I'm going to fight a print as it won't work right if I don't.