Creality and E3D team up! It didn't go smoothly... (Titan Extruder Upgrade)
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- Опубліковано 18 жов 2024
- Creality now offers a genuine E3D Titan Extruder upgrade for the CR-10 V2, but my experience attaching it was nothing short of disastrous.
I am excited to see these two companies work together in future, but the QC and user experience needs to be improved.
Links to topics mentioned in the video:
Creality CR-10 V2 Review - • Can the CR-10 V2 toppl...
E3D Titan Extruder upgrade - www.creality3d...
E3D V6 Cooling fan used - www.thingiverse...
Creality Ender 3 Direct Drive mod - www.printermods...
Support Maker's Muse on Patreon
www.patreon.co...
50 3D Printing Tips and Tricks - gumroad.com/l/...
3D Printing Essentials - www.amazon.com...
While our involvement with this upgrade was mainly relegated to supply of parts I still feel a weight of responsibility here. When I get in on Monday I'll catch up with the team, as well as reach out to Creality to offer our help to improve this integration. I'm sure that by working together we can make a success of this.
Dude, there was nothing wrong with the titan unit supplied.
@@MakersMuse Hi Angus
I... Was honestly stunned when I saw that fan shroud.
Reminds me a lot of this:
www.thingiverse.com/thing:3358417
Was a design I did some months ago. Please have a careful look at all the screenshots. This one worked very well. There are so many similarities between mine and this one...
Not that I am mad that my design was copied, it's more because it was copied so badly ;)
Edit.
That is, if it has been copied ;)
@@MakersMuse But it still looks bad for thier product even if the fault is due to the way it was implemented by someone else. If thier vendors aren't successful, they aren't successful.
I would have expected a firmware update and an approval on the part cooler design at least. Even if you had not supplied the rest. Even with Prusa people were not designing the cooler based around your heat-sink designs so I recommend that you guys add some cooling recommendations based on your recent V6 performance and flow testing. You should have some info about the static pressure requirements/flow. Recommended direction of flow and stuff like that. The fact that you shouldn't dump the hot air from the heatsink to the part etc.
@Timothy Hoogland Nah Creality needs to make it right on their end is the point. Most people aren't going to know about your site. The info should be in the manual.
Angus, thank you for the honest feedback, we will check with the company everything you mentioned and sorry for all inconvenience :(
Creality good on you for being open to feedback. Quality control and support defInitely goes a long way.
Creality open to feedback? Lol right? Well, maybe, if you run a 555K subscribers channel, they know the impact on buyers, otherwise... :\
@@jacobcreech4382 Ok, thanks for your suggestions.
@Jason Watkins Great, thank you for loving our printer.
I love Creality. They are always open to feedback to further improve their products. They even paid people a while back to give them feedback on the cr-10s pro. I was one who actually benefited from that. It allowed me to add a bltouch to mine for free, and people who buy the pro v2 now, get one with the machine. Gotta love a company who tries so hard to make their customers happy.
I got bashed for saying those angled supports weren’t needed but talk about over engineered! My V2 is now just a printfarm machine. It’s printing as good as my original CR-10 just quieter. Based on this I’m not sure I want to mess with it even though they sent me one too. And I agree, the Ender 3 is an amazing design for the money and prints incredibly well even in its stock bowden setup.
I regret messing with it, it was printing just fine with the 1mm nozzle I fitted before all this. Ah well.
Glad to see your back and ok. Was a little worried about you and the fires and then the flooding. I have been following you since i started printing, about a year and a few months, and I have learned so much and look forward to learning more. Thank you so much! 🙂
That blue molding is classic engineering by the marketing department; can't let the customers know how easy it is to bolt an after-market part onto our printer ;)
or simply to "make it look nice" without considering the hardship it would add to maintenance. it does in fact make it look very nice. but I would prefer easy maintenance over looks nice :-)
SAVAGE!
Great video! You don't let anything slide.
I love it!
I remember seeing your journey through this on Twitter, man that was hell
haha yeah, frustrating indeed.
Yup me too... Inside scoop before UA-cam
This guy is not the sharpest tool or he was being extremely lazy. How hard is it to put the titan on before putting the V6 in the shroud. Seriously double check your work.
Really appreciate the shout out on my upgrade kit on your Ender 3, this will also fit perfectly on your CR-10. I have put a lot of time and effort to offer a superior product and easy to install kit for most of the Creality machines.
Matthew Basaraba What is the kit called? I think he mentioned it was on eBay?
I have it on my cr10s and it works well with petg.
@@PeterVanLaarhoven81 It has moved off of Ebay and he posted the new link. Check out www.PrinterMods.com now for new direct drives and linear kits.
🤣🤣🤣 the electric drill was priceless
Having put a mouse on a laboratory shaker last week to keep a Windows session alive, I have to say I loved the drill hack.
I did exactly the same thing when I upgraded my CR-10S to a titan aero.
If your machine has a knob...
Ridiculous. M92 E[new_value] then M500. Agnus certainly has the experience to do this. Furthermore, he must have noticed that he loosened the heat block while installing the stepper on the extruder, but he plowed on and let it leak and fail.
@@GnuReligion but the drill is hilarious
It's great to see someone with experience go through all these different upgrades for the CR-10 V2! I got mine CR-10s V2 this christmas and there are lots of stuff that I want to change and with my lack of experience I would problably buy the wrong stuff. Keep up the good work!
I brought one too and love it. Right i was getting the best machine good the price. There are small things i want to do for better durability but I'm up to hear what you suggest.
Great to see you back Angus! I have been talking to Theressa and got a little worried when not hearing from you. Glad your ok. Excellent video
Bruh, using a drill to turn the knob was freaking GENIUS!!!!! 😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
Actually was really dumb considering the type or rotary encoder the machine has it doesnt do well with fast rotations like that. He could have easily created a gcode file .
@@cutty02 Not to mention the wear - sounds like a good way to have to buy a spare on aliexpress
I've had a Creality 3 for 6 months, so am just moving out of beginner mode. I'm considering buying another printer and have looked at loads of reviews. My decision is to buy another Creality 3. It's simple, cheap, I know how it works and it's easy to upgrade. Keep up the good work ... your videos are very entertaining (and educational).
Do u mean a Ender 3 ?
Yes ... my bad
@@derekhawley9660 ah ok, yeah it's a awesome printer i have one too :). And I agree, it's a very capable well made printer for a low price! 👍
I've been using a Titan Aero with Volcano on my CR-10 for years. It is a fantastic combination and has been extremely reliable. I used a custom bracket/cooler from thingiverse to mount it and adjusted the end stops to account for the size difference. I had to swap out a bearing on the Aero and that is the only failure in many thousands of hours of printing. Even the original fan is somehow still alive. I will have no qualms going back to E3D next time I need an extruder/hot end.
Im not surprised this has happened. I watch alot of your videos and youve educated me so much with printers and problems and I have seen (as a new user of the Ender 3 Pro) that there will always be a certain amount of head scratching and frustration in getting a decent return for your money with these printers and upgrades.
So far my experience with my Ender 3 (not pro) was awesome! But I could just be one of the lucky ones without any quality flaws straight from the factory.
So glad you're back. Your videos on Fusion 360 basically taught me everything I know about CAD, and I couldn't be more greatful.
3d printing technology isn't improving as fast as we imagined 5~10 years ago 💔 we thought by 2020 we'd have many of the inconveniences eliminated, however we still have long, long way to go.
We really did didn't we... In some ways they've improved such as silent stepper drivers and better slicers, but quality control is still an ongoing issue as consumers demand cheaper and cheaper products.
@@MakersMuse I guess we just get what we pay for. If we want cheat we should expect cheap quality. If something is going to be dumb expensive then it better be top notch quality.
My experience has been better than yours. My third printer is light years from my first. The cheap printers are getting all the features of the expensive ones. I agree with Jose though. If you buy cheap from companies known for cutting corners you're not going to be pleased with the results.
@@MakersMuse I wouldn't mind a somewhat higher price tag if it came with reliably higher reliability. But at least here the most common differentiatior is the lack of community support. I get similar problems but no one to ask about. At least until you get into the clearly professional bracket with prices to match.
Consumer/hobbie grade improves very slow compared to Industrial grade additive technology. It's just the tradeoff between opensource practical improvements vs proprietary high budget R&D. I'm still happy how we as a community can tinker around low budget printers and help each other to find solutions.
Loads of kudos to you, I am happy to see all cons and pros to the printers, also it learns me a lot just by watching a lot of your videos, just got a CR-10S Pro bought (in a silly offer I could not refuse!) and so I went with it, it will be a fun learning process for me!
But this is whats good, seeing a review of bad stuff before we purchase themselves is worth SO much, thanks for this vid!
I got into 3d printing this christmas. The biggest issue wich made me fiddle with my ender 3 pro for hours and weeks was heat creep causing the material to get stuck in the extruder. I used the standard and a cheap all metal hotend both got cloged several times. Then i bought a little bit better all metal hotend and it did it too.
It always worked a while and then the prints got bad and worse.
What really saved me was a video where someone used thermal paste for the metal tube to make better contact to the cooler. Since then i just need to load the gcode and it printed nearly a complete kg roll without maintenance since then.
That’s crazy. So glad I came across your video about the wires… I genuinely thought I was going crazy. Not sure about swapping the cords around myself.. I’ll have to keep looking for more info. Thanks for helping me narrow this down.
Angus couldn't agree more had the exact same experience upgrading my cr-10v2
I bought two E3D extruders. Spent a whole month trying to fix extrusion issues, with their support being evasive. Switched to a BondTech and everything worked beautifully.
"It's going to be an awesome year" - Angus Feb 2020
Sadface
This is bit unfair to Creality. I did this upgrade to my CR-10 V2 without any issues whatsoever and am really happy with the prints I am now getting. The trick was to read the instructions provided and follow them. I installed the recommended firmware, there was no need to modify cables or use an electric drill to get the correct esteps, the firmware took care of it all. Yes it was a little fiddly getting the extruder in place but again by following the provided instructions I had it in place in under 10 minutes. Really happy will this upgrade so far, including printing of flexible filaments.
I have fitted a Hemera onto my Ender 3 Pro and not looking back! What a great multifilament unit my Ender 3 Pro is now. Such smooth and beautifully laid down plastic it can accomplish. I have never been happy with any Titan style printing extruder.
It worked fine with me, the Allen key didn't quite fit so I used my fine tip screwdriver and the 4th bolt went it perfectly, took 2 minutes to install. They also had precompiled firmware so I didn't have to worry about any drive/esteps issues. Was probably the smoothest upgrade I've ever done on a 3D printer...
Been awhile, glad your back!
Based on your Creality coments, I went for the Sidewinder. Using PLA, it has only once failed to print, and looking at my model, it was clearly my mistake. Fixed the mistake and it printed beautifully. Thanks for your channel. (Yes, I'm barefoot now.)
I had that leaking nozzle/backfill problem on the heat element. It's not a write off. Get it apart, pick as much out as possible, then soak the whole thing in solvent, careful not to expose the wiring. I used a methyl acetate based paint stripper. After a few days it turns PLA into snot and you can clean it up easily.
Really good to see you again! Thanks for posting.
Hahaha “going to be an awesome year” hahahahaahha
Came here looking for this comment. Hahaha, I laughed when he said that.
@@eucolecionodinossauros Same
‘It’s going to be an awesome year’
6:40
Angus: "There are so many Design for ducts that kinda sucks"
Duct: Thats why I am here
Engineers: We've made it so that it can blow quite well.
Production Manager: We need more material on it so the customers feels better about us, need more aesthetic as well.
Engineers: that will ruin the air flow.
Production Manager: Just do it.
Great thinking on the cordless drill rotary encoder hack, love it!
I put that same orange cooling fan duct mount (the second one with the blower fan and 30mm fan) printed in HIPS on my heavily upgraded Folger Tech Reprap 2020 i3, and its been producing excellent quality prints since. I like that idea of converting the Ender 3's bowden to direct drive while keeping the connectors between a very short PTFE length.
good to have you back, you were missed
Glad to see your back and doing well!! I'm two things, one I use a drill from time to time to manage E-steps when modding so I understand, second it honestly seems like the upgrade was a last minute thing that wasn't released properly but they just wanted to put out there anyways without testing, but who knows. Good job either way
Your opinion is like gold to me and I rely on it for ALL my 3D purchases and honestly I cant know for sure but I am betting you have saved me a thousand dollars because of your brutal honesty and that is exactly what this community needs most. Especially with all the crap and hacks that are out there trying to take your money!
Thank you for reminding me why I bought a Prusa i3 Mk3 :)
I've got a CR-10 V2 and an ender 3, and I have to agree, the Ender 3 (and many other creality printers) cooling duct is just such a simple design, so easy to troubleshoot and upgrade, just undo a couple of screws and you're in! The Cr10 V2 one though... may look nice on the outside but that cooling duct is such a pain I have the feel I want to change it just so I don't have to dissasemble it ever again.
I had absolutely zero problems setting up my Titan extruder on my cr-10 V2 .
I installed their firmware got all the data that I needed flash get back to Marlin 2.0.3 set up all the parameters that I just recorded from their firmware
And it works beautiful
But I had to purchase my extruder and the marketing stated it was included.
China has no problem with false advertising
^ Thank you this guy makes it look terrible when its super easy to do. I can sense a total bias
I've got a CR-10 V2 a week ago and it has no problems. It didn't come with a direct drive but since I only want to print PLA it's not a big deal for me. I didn't have any problems and if you plan on using it stock maybe with only some small upgrades I think it's a very nice machine for the price.
I just got one delivered Thursday. Upon assembling the manual references two different mounting systems for the Z-Stop. They gave me the ones that bolt into the extrusion. This caused the Z-Stop to be way too high and has no ability to be adjusted. All reviews I saw online and even the manual shows images of it is the Z-Stop using T-Nuts instead. Luckily I have some and screws or else I would have to stick to using double sided tape to get it to print.
On another note the CR-10 V2 out of the box printing quality vs my Ender-3 was great. The print quality surpassed my Ender-3's first prints. I just hate that blue plastic block like mentioned here. There is just no reason to have it. If it does become a problem I will likely convert it to the system the Ender-3 uses.
@@sekazi Yeah the blue cover isn't very well thought... When I got mine belts and x-axis wheels were too tight and the bed was loose. After the adjustments it's working perfectly fine. I still think it's a great printer for 420 EUR.
Got mine last dec. First printer and i love it. Plan on getting an ender for direct drive as well. In his if you don't upgrade the cr10 v2 it's good enough
I like my Ender and S5 but glad you bash on Creality as well. I like that your perspective is different and glad that it sounds like you're going to pump out some more videos! Keep it up mate
Thank you Angus for being frank, I really appriciate and respect that. Keep being honest to yourself, it makes you awesome!
Happy to see this video.. Just backs up my decision to buy a V2, and sell it again after 14 days because nothing would stick to the bed. Just aweful.. Also with powercut, after heating up the nozzle, it started to print, despite the bed was keeping cooling, so I had to manually enter the temp for the bed again. It really wasnt what I had expected from Creality.. My old Ender3 is running flawlessly, althought I should probably have changed the steppermotors already to get rid of the squicky sound..
Off topic: Cant wait for you to get your hands on a Prusa MINI and review it :)
“going to be an awesome year”
Glad to see you back
This machine's gantry is actually really good and solid, and the overall construction of the machine is solid. It even features Trinamic TMC2209 Drivers, which are nice. But yeah, if your print doesn't stick and you dont stop it, the filament will literally fill up the nozzle cavity like a balloon and you have to dissasemble the whole nozzle, then reheat it and clean out literally everything. If you're gonna buy this machine just be ready for that, or upgrade to a different hotend
can we have an update on the v3 version of this printer
and bring back the old-style fan shroud? Man, that thing was great. One time we got the classic "ball of death" and it was surprisingly easy to clean. Just a few screws and you can open it up and scrape everything off.
I agree about the Creality fan shroud it's pure decoration
They should provide an adapter cable for the motor polarity support
I recommend you to make your own update, the official is bullshit. I made mine and I printed perfect.
Do you have a design to share? Most of us don't have the knowlege to design fan ducts properly as witnessed by the sheer amount of badly working desings on thingiverse and such.
I ordered mine when they first became available. Took quite awhile to get here, but it installed fine. I did have the plastic leaking, but I think it was my fault. I used the firmware from Creality and didn't have to set steps or anything. I re-installed the short piece of bowden tube and redid the nozzle and it's been printing fine ever since with the factory nozzle and heatbreak.
Great stuff as always Angus, my buddy just picked up the creality CR-10 V3. It did a few good prints but now nothing sticks to the bed!! I have resolved a few problems with alignment of the gantry, bed, USB driver so it will communicate with the computer but we still can't get it to stick to the borosilacate glass bed. Its almost like it goes to home and we do a leveling then when it goes to print, it seems to lift up about .1ish higher than its supposed to be so no bed adheasion?? I have an A5 and i have to wait until the bed cools or i won't get the print off!! We have been on the creality site to get the firmware to reflash it but they don't have it. Since the V2 is a bowden and the V3 is a DD, the settings would be different but they say to use the V2s firmware??
Any ideas or suggestions?
Thanks
I agree that Creality needs to pick a lane when it comes to their manufacturing process. My Ender 3 and CR10s are the most reliable work horses I have in my print farm. I get that they want to try different things but like you say with quality control, they should keep things to themselves until they have a “good” functioning printer. Don’t make us the test subject. Great work and I look forward to future videos.
I use a drill too, when I dont have a computer on hand, to rapidly increment my knob control to change my ESteps on my TEVO Tarantula. I am glad to see my janky solution isn't just my solution.
Many printer companies rely on people like you to do their reverse engineering. YOU find the problems and issues after it's released, and they eventually correct what you find wrong. Just like software companies that release a new build that they know isn't ready for the general public, but it's more important to get their product to market, than to get it working properly first.
The Chinese consumer electronics industry has matured at a phenomenal rate over the last few years, but there is still plenty of room for improvement in quality control, and after sales support. It is reminiscent of Japan about fifty years ago - the future looks bright!
So glad you did this video. On my CR10S Pro which now has an E3D Hermes installed. This will print the Benchy but not the top canopy it can't seem to do the bridging at all no matter what I do. The same file prints just fine on my other 3D printer so I'm reaching out to you or to anyone else who could point me in the correct direction to fix this. This prints ok with supports on but that's not really the way this test is to be printed.
I recently got the CR-10 v2 and noticed the following: the included aluminum Bowden extruder works really well. I upgraded to a Bondtech but only minimal improvement. During the upgrade I noticed the included Bowden tube was causing friction and binding (I think it’s just cheap plastic) so I upgraded that to a Capricorn. That fixed the binding issue I was feeling when manually feeding PLA. The last thing I noticed is the heatbed seems low on the right side but that’s because the X Gantry needs to be adjusted for square. Otherwise, a great buy and great results for me as a Bowden setup.
Same here.
the best part is that the plastic cover can't even be removed without slowly disassembling the entire printer: D I haven't figured out how to take it off yet, even though all the screws have been removed: D and I don't understand why due to the blowing block I should slowly disassemble the whole direct drive.The funniest thing is when you look at the two small holes (cracks) for blowing air, so all the air only goes through the big front hole and the least resistance. The whole front block is kind of weird. It is not possible to see properly on the printing surface. It is not possible to get under it at the first layer with tweezers. The cooling of the print is done only by the front hole.You can try to cover it with your hand and see how much air will flow through those cracks. :D
Thanks for the video, it seems that there is not much testing before the put it on the market, shame on them.
Cheers, thanks for being honest all the time! Like it!
It looks like you should remove the fan screw and use the long screw to hold the fan and the Titan. I just ordered the CR-10 V2 and will be getting the Titan soon so will update on what I find.
Just another reason I quit using cheap Chinese printers....Good to see you back Angus!!
Cheap is a very personal opinion x) - I have the CR-10 V1 and upgraded the hell out of it
Anycubic came up with an Mega upgrade with a titan clone extruder. I didn't have the same level of problems as you but I did really feel something was sorely lacking in the design and instructions. I'm thinking this is more about the state of the industry and not one company in particular.
Anyway, Off topic but, glad you're safe and doing well, Angus.
That little bit where rotating the assembly unscrewed the hotend is the main reason why I've grown to hate the V6-style hotends. Having to line up the heatbrake and nozzle perfectly against each other is such a pain, not to mention the mounting method for the whole hotend (the whole slot-ring thing) makes it _impossible_ to keep the thing still while tightening... I switched to a mosquito (clone) on my Ender 3 and the thing is rock solid, haven't had a leak since, and I've been swapping nozzles more often because I don't have to spend an hour recalibrating everything anymore.
I think they fixed the issues quite nicely in the V3 .... it comes pre-assembled with the titan and I got great prints right out of the box ... in fact Im really not keen to upgrade anything as it's printing perfectly as is ... no stringing and part cooling seems to be good as well
So they advertise it in the printer marketing then charge $65 to upgrade it... Wtf? That's so scummy.
Creality: "Look! Direct drive for one of our most popular platforms!"
Angus: "this aint it chief"
Everyone using direct drive machines : We need a bowden upgrade
Angus back at it after the fires boo yah
it is normal that the extruding is revered as it is a geared extruder. So its no fault bei creality or e3d. you can easily set it in firmware.
Exactly he should have followed the E3D installation guide.
I've had an Ender 3 for just about a year and have had pretty much only two issues which was when the acrylic extruder arm broke (admittedly a very poor design choice) and the PTFE tubing degrading. Since I've replaced both I've had no problems. I've gone both with small nozzles (down to 0.2) to make D&D minis as well as big (up to 0.8mm) for figures as big as it can handle and no issues. I would still would like to see some changes.
1. Better stock extruder.
2. A hotend fan that only turns on when the hotend is heated.
3. Better fan shroud.
4. E3D compatible hotend. I have both the Ender 3 and the Anycubic predator and I'd rather have the same kind of nozzle for both.
5. Wi-Fi enabled.
Always good work.
First of all a axial fan on a part cooling duct is a terrible idea. Axial fans do not produce very good static pressure so it would have been doing next to nothing on your duct. Axial fans are mostly designed for high volume air flow, some do have ok static pressure properties but are very spefic. Calling a radial fan a squirrel fan are you serious? Any way radial fans produce amazing static pressure so when you are trying to push air out a small opening a radial is the best way to do it. This is why you have a axial fan on the v6 heat brake and a radial fan on the duct that is their spefic best case use.
You can design a axial fan to produce better static pressure using veins but this isn't commonly done or known about in the community.
3:45 LOVE THAT
@Angus..
in the video, you mentionned an v6 clone.. I have an anet a8, and I've been thinking of changing my hotend, and the V6 (and clones) are a popular option (although I'd like to keep a direct drive).. but I can't really get a reliable review of real vs cloned V6, and which clones can be trusted (and which cheapest is good?).
I was wondering if this is something that would interest you, to produce as a video..
thanks for all the good work and good luck this year.
You want to have the heat break screwed in the heat block all the way. Then screw in the nozzle
Well maybe I've got it wrong - I'm a newbie : I've got a Creality CR-X and it just print wonderful ! I just use PLA and print everything at 210 deg with a 60 deg bed (mostly just medium setting in Simplify 3D)- I did have to replace the hot-end once, as I did not clean the bed and forgot to calibrate it and let a print print unattended - the dammed print let go and the hot-end ended up as one big plastic ball -
but since I replaced it (with an original Creality hot-end) It just prints lovely.
(I don't do much two colour prints, as that uses a lote of PLA in the tower, but my penguins came out ok ! )
I am just lucky ??? (An I love the print bed)
I say put a Hemera on it! I put one on my Tevo Tornado and the prints are AMAZING!!!
Thanks for an unbiased review
Thanks for sharing 👍😀
Asger Vestbjerg - my electronics teacher from AMU back in 1996/1997 ?
I am relieved Angus is still handsome in 2020. Also still a good critic for bad designs
Sir, a question if I may. When you were assembling the extruder, why didn’t you remove the blue cooling duct from the hot end to give you clearance to install the extruder? It looks like it was fairly easy to remove as you did it later in the video to try and clean the hot end.
@airwalwer
i couldn't understand why he didn't do that either?
Angus. Why do you have 2 groove mounts on a titan extruder? Just put the v6 in the titan. And put a volcano on the end.
K.I.S.S as we like to say.
use the Groovemount adapter to make an ender 3 a bolt on DDE. And attach a mini-me fanduct.
Long time no let'e get started!
You do realize that a firmware upgrade makes it so that the LCD knobb will accelerate and go in big chunks, like 50 + at a time.
Also I know a lot of people who are using the Titan DD with no issue. Strange that it came wired backwords. I am going to ask them if they dealt with that. Although the integrated inj molded dual cooling duct does work awesome and its light! You should have used a pancake stepper with the unit and you would have the lightest DD unit on the planet. Which will result in better prints. You could have removed the fan instead of twisting but most people use ball joint hex tools for angles.
At least you got a Titan DD. I ordered one months ago from Creality no word and no one answers their email. The company is really non-existent. While my CR10V2 prints very good, I ordered 2 prusas and won’t be ordering more Creality ever.
I just repaired a jam in my Cr10 v3, and it has the same awkward extruder setup. Caused a lot of headache. Taking it apart was very awkward. But I really manhandled it and it held up so theres that.
I recently did similar back and forth rotation of the heater block on a Prusa MK3S by about the same angle. The reason for it was different of course but the result was the same leak you got.
I bought this printer and expected the Titan Extruder to be included, as their marketing are written... But no.. I have talked with their support and no it is not included. I have suggested that they change they marketing material so that is much more clear.
Not sure if they will, but have seen a lot of UA-cam videos afterwards, I was not the only one that expected the Titan Drive to be included.
So you getting it, is not their standard service :) Just FYI :)
This doesn't realy fit in here, but I'm really interested in the Prusa Mini and I can't wait to see your video on it.
I just want to start off by saying I like your honest reviews and to be honest when I bought my first couple realities not knowing about 3D printing I just assumed they were startup machines and since then I've modified it to death so my opinion you're right they could do better but most the time I think reality is a startup and then you learn from there from the ground up
Thanks for the video.
It feels like when it came to the fitting they should have supplied a longer bolt to replace the top left fan one. bolting through the fan rather than that twisting. Side note keep debating about upgrading to direct drive but everything is printing really nice that I'm reluctant to.
I agree about the housing. It's annoying. Even changing the nozzle is more difficult than it needs to be.
My Ender 3 Pro is my new workhorse!
My CR-10 is amazing, it has been going for 2-3 years (I lost track)
I think I had less problems upgrading Anycubic 4Max Pro to titan Aero and Duet WiFi than you upgrading Creality to titan specially designed for that printer. But on the bright side - Creality is so bad that internet full of different parts to fix at least something in that printer.
Also I found that best way to replace nozzle is exactly what E3D suggests: at 285C slightly tighten it. I used recommendation from Sanlanderer how to do it cold way, but got leak. After that I tightened another nozzle while it was cold, heated to 285 and it was not tight at 285.
Yeah I always tighten nozzles hot but the V6 design rotates when you torque it, so with the big plastic cover and silicone heatsock it's a real pain tbh.
Hello, I swapped 1 coil and my extruder is not working. I swapped it back and it's not working now(propably some electronic parts on mainboard are burned out). Thank you for this tutorial - now i have 12 kilograms of useless metal/plastic/rubber shit.
Using a drill was genius!
I know the struggle of trying to swap out the hotend. The heater element in my tevo tarantula died so I bought an e3d replacement hotend. Never got it to print properly ever since.
The titan extruder limits the z axis travel on the CR10 V2 because it hits the angled brace on the top left