I'm Back! :D Some of the cruddy components used were intentional. I just wanted to bring life to some of my old discarded 3D printing components. Holding a square with shorts, the machine is not designed to be a precision build, it was literally just a frugal project for the thrill of doing so. I'll update you all when I migrate to Klipper. Hopefully input shaping would make an impact on the next test prints.
This reminds me so much of the starting days of 3d printing, when there were no kits or tools specific for 3d printers, so you had to go around the hardware shop to find what you needed and use old pc power supplies as power source.... And in the end if you printed a cube that looked more or less like a cube it was such a success
Those were the days! 😭I can recall when I was little and asked my parents for a RepRap, I had a hard time convincing (in 2010) on how useful it can be at home. I waited a few years later until I can afford a printer with my savings, eventually I got the Anet A6 (i3 clone). I really missed the days when a bunch of parts I never knew existed (that all came in a box) and had to install them like Legos. The first print was the most rewarding thing I've ever felt at that time. The excitement would probably have been much more intense back during the pre RepRap's Mendel era, those things were so bare and crude getting to print a cube would have been indeed immensely rewarding.
This is a great inspiration because I have tons of old parts lying around. I started with the Mendel v2, un 2011. The only place to get printed parts was through eBay, and hardware vitamins and minerals from Home Depot. there were no commercial printers designed for desktop. We printed our own extruders from PLA or ABS - and they worked better than the MK series without gear reduction. There were no 1.75 versions, and now I'm left with dozens of spools of 3mm (not 2.85, actually 3mm) spools. I am designing a retrofit extruder.
Some notes about welding from a professional MIG welder; Get comfortable. Don't be anxious or anything; welding requires a steady hand. Especially on thin steel like you're doing here. Sit down to weld until you get comfortable enough to stand and weld. Get your face closer to the weld, so you can really see what's happening. Don't be scared of it. Yes, weld spatter will get on you. Yes, it burns. You get used to it. I usually weld with my face as close to the weld as I can, less than a foot (30 cm) away at most. You need to be able to see the weld puddle flowing to where you want it to go. The puddle will do what it wants and you must simply guide it in the direction you want it to go. You need gloves. That will let you get closer to your project and brace yourself for smoother lines. Imagine trying to draw a perfectly smooth, straight line with a pencil on paper without touching the desk, while holding the pencil by the eraser with one hand. This is effectively how you're welding here. Use your off hand as a brace for your torch hand to pivot on, don't grab the torch with both hands. I usually rest my elbow or forearm on the bench. Also, what you're using as a thumb rest is just a hook to hang the torch by. Torch height and angle is very important. This is what appears to have caused the excessive spatter and the majority of holes in your welds. Proper height and angle allows for correct heat distribution and wire feed for good penetration, assuming you're using flux-core wire. If you're not, then you need gas and height and angle are even more important so the weld puddle stays shielded by the gas. You want to stay between 5-15 degrees from perpendicular, and the wire should stick out around 3/8" (1 cm) from the nozzle. If you're using flux-core, you should "drag" the torch away from the weld, and double the stick out to 3/4" (2 cm). Also, flux-core wire produces slag that needs to be chipped away with a chipping hammer. Very basic settings guide: If it's just popping and not making a consistent puddle, turn your wire feed speed up. If you're getting excess spatter with correct torch height and angle, turn your feed speed down. If you're making a weld that looks like a worm sitting on the surface of the metal, turn your heat up. If you're burning through too quickly, turn your heat down. Of course, settings are very important. But you also have to match your travel speed to your settings. Too fast and you won't get good enough penetration. Too slow and you'll burn a hole right through. You want it to have a consistent "sizzling" sound, and the edges of the weld should be flush with the surrounding material. Also, make sure to match your wire to the type of welding you're doing. Pay attention to the diameter. You'll need different torch tips for different wire diameters. Tips and cups are consumables, and will need to be replaced often. Gloves and hood glass, too. I go through a glass a day, a pair of gloves a week, and tips every few days. Of course, I'm welding 10 hours a day. Finally, welding is a skill. It takes practice. It took me at least 100 hours to feel even somewhat comfortable doing what I'm doing. Practice on anything you can find to weld together. Start with welding on flat, then progress to vertical. Get comfortable; you should feel like you're sitting at a desk and doodling. Grind your metal before welding it. Weld straight lines on a scrap piece of metal. Practice different weld joints, starting with butt welds, then progress to laps and corners. You're doing great, for a beginner. My welds looked worse.
As a custom metal fabricator for around 15 years now, mainly TIG but also a lot of MIG where applicable, this is really solid advice. The one thing I would emphasize after you have your feed and gas settings dialed is the " Use your off hand as a brace for your torch hand to pivot on, don't grab the torch with both hands." as mentioned above. You don't write by holding the eraser side of the pencil with your hand unsupported, and this is the same concept. Stability is key and once you become more proficient, you will find other ways to brace yourself. Using your off hand as a brace will improve your results immediately. Also, invest in a die grinder and some nice carbide burrs or cartridge rolls, they will help you clean up anything nasty looking on the inside corners. Anti spatter can also help with cleanup and nozzle gel can prolong the life of your consumables. Other than that, keep it up! Welding is a skill like riding a bike, the more you do it the better you will be.
As far as getting right up in the weld, let's make sure the galvanized coating is removed before getting close. You don't want to be breathing fumes of burning zinc.
I'll be honest and say this is one of the most interesting builds videos I have ever watched. Proper use of what you have instead of buying all new fancy things. Excellent work buddy.
I clicked on this thinking it would be click bait. But no, it's an excellent build that you've put together. It would be nice one day to build my own printer.
Great architecture, build, budget, filming, editing and story telling. Just the righr amount of everything. Either you are a natural or you've out a ton of brain, sweat, budget and rime into this. Totally impressed!
Thank you! I came to the same conclusion as you the other day when I decided that a small print farm would be useful and considering that i have a fiber laser CNC cutter and fiber laser welder I'm going to weld up steel frames out of steel plate cut on the CNC. I was so excited by your video. Thank you again for the extremely clear build documentation and thought process.
I absolutely love how you routed all of the wires underneath/behind the controller board and then had them come from the bottom and connect to the board. It looks so clean! Very well done!
This is actually an amazing process that clearly shows how much design decisions and intricate details goes into our everyday 3D printers that we often complain about, and makes me really appriciate new companies like Bambu, that they turned this technology into almost proper appliances. Also I loved your commentary on top of every detail, thank you for this!
I had fun putting my first Voron 0 together but that frugal design constraint takes things to a new level! Nothing fascinates me more than utilizing spares remnants of the past, on to a modern motion system. Hands down, I would love to see more of these! Perhaps make a segment called "Cheap Thrills"! Might be the next McGyver series. Amazing work Angelo! 💯
Awesome job dude, steel is actually a great choice, it can be more thermally stable over Aluminium and carbon fibre and is also cheap and very strong, the added weight will also help.
Welding; Some tips here from a automotive fabbricobbler: Get shielding gas and throw that core flux garbage in the bin. Tap weld first each corner, i'd fabricate this by building the top and bottom squares first, just a spot weld on each corner, cross measure, machinist square to check it's square too, and you should be able to get within 0.1mm relatively easily with just tape measure -- errors show exponentially when cross referencing. Add more spot welds, allow that corner to cool while spot welding the opposite, and go cross hatch opposites, regularly rechecking it remains square. REMEMBER; Smaller the issue, bigger the hammer! So if you are off by say 0.25mm you'll need a big hammer. Fortunately, small single handled steel mallets are only like 5$ Remember to well all 4 sides fully for maximal strength. Cooling allow the stresses to give up, and as you add spot welds, it gets harder and harder to get off square, but more internal stresses will build if you go too fast. After the 2 squares are done, then just the uprights, same process but this time after first or second spot welds on each corner i would probably add on top a 25kg or 2 sacks as weight to force it to be in place and allow me to weld it faster together. Otherwise the same procedure. Slow is smooth, smooth is fast; So without weights and time you can get it better squared. **NOW ALTERNATIVE METHOD** Print huge stiff corner brackets on 45 degree angle. Adjustable, no welding, no heat shrinkage / thermal expansion / thermal warp issues. See how Slant3D has made their Mason printers. Tho much less stiff, you need 10x thickness for PLA to be as stiff as steel. So for 1.5mm wall steel RHS, you need 15mm walls, or a minimum of 15mm fully solid plastic to match the stiffness.
Flex core has the deepest penetration when run with shielded gas industrial welder and heavy equipment welder lots of buckets . Use tig gas with helium for the deepest pen on flex core wire . 7018 equivalent
@skaltura To me, that seems like a lot of plastic to leave in place on those extrusion that make up your gantry axes, if all they're doing is holding your extrusions together. It also seems like plenty of space to embed nuts into the plastic. What would you say to printing a batch of two or three part encapsulating corner brackets as guides to hold the box extrusions in place while welding them or while using stopper caps to bolt them together? Also, while I'm peripherally aware of the stigma against them (in that I know it exists), would a battery handheld unit be enough for this task, and would it still need wire and inert gas?
$27 gets you just under 1m of 1" steel square tubing at Home Depot in the USA. Absolutely insane. Metal suppliers obviously have better rates, but still way more. I was just so surprised by how cheap it was there, though obviously I know incomes and all are much different.
@@802Garage built a tv mount that used about 20' of 1inch tubing, was $150, way over priced. Definitely a must to lookup near by suppliers. some suppliers require a large purchase, but some let you pick up if you buy a small amount.
It's interesting to learn about the prices of materials from different parts of the globe. But from my last trip there, I was shocked how much a board of plywood costs at Lowe's and Home Depot. In the Philippines, some tend to work abroad to save and retire back here. Probably due to a similar thing haha
what a great video man. i wasn't bored for a second during the building process and im still astonished how this produced a better benchy than my ender 3 considering that u had to make ur frame and all. also love the fact that you arent just buying everything and it made me realise that i can actually just make some stuff for my printer instead of shelling out money. also love the simplistic filament run out imma yoink that design for myself
I know you said this was your first foray into mig welding, just a word of caution for you, besides your inexperience with welding, the fact that the steel was galvanised would be another reason you had issues, but the big concern is that you tried to weld through the zinc instead of grinding it away before you weld. This is a big no-no in fabrication and should be avoided at all costs. You are young and most likely not had any issues because of it, but please, going forward, remove the shiney coating before welding .or better still, just don't do it.
Inhaling zinc fumes will cause cancer. Welding without proper clothing will cause melanoma (also cancer). And yeah, galvanized metal is overkill if he's just gonna paint it anyway.
You can actually tell by the uniformity of the surface that this is definitely not galvanized. Galvanized almost always has variations and or a pattern, along with a silvery color that looks like silver spray paint. This is most definitely plain uncoated cheap mild steel. But this is the internet, and there are always know it alls that have to add their incorrect inputs. So keep doing your thing!
Who's correct!? How will we know now! Ahhhhh! Should we be upset at this kids profound, potentially cancer causing, mistake? Should we just frown at this commenter for his misinformation? WHO IS CORRECT! I need a third commentator!
THAT’S INSANE, mad respect to your skill! You’ve redefined what it means to be a builder. Even without input shaper equipped yet, it’s almost as fast as my ratrig. I’m really excited for you to get hold of klipper.
Great presentation! TOTALLY AWESOME! I've built mine around 2021-22 and put it aside and I only needed to adjust the temperature and was getting 98% on the first layer printing. Bought my 1st printer in 2024 and plan on working on my first one to get it working properly. Once again GREAT JOB!
I love this so much!! This is my first time seeing your channel, and I've already subscribed! I graduate this semester with my degree in mechanical engineering, and even though I already have a few great 3D printers, I would love to finally be able to build my own! Also, I'm really impressed with the Google Drive - it's insane that you're sharing those plans for free!
absolutely brilliant! and of course you just released this after I spent a sleepless night pondering how much one could feasibly reduce the part count on a corexy. turns out one can actually make a single-arm gantry (so sort of like a Prusa mini but corexy) with some minor tweaks to the belt paths! Thanks to your inspiration I might actually build that at some point.
Looks like a really good printer! Also I chuckled a bit at the linear rails for 10 bucks per kilo. That is untinkable where I live but good find! Edit: The skr pico might have been cheaper than the skr mini e3 v3, it was for me.
Thank you!!!! I'm really glad the shop exists here! Diving in their used industrial section's my fave. They give a second life to the parts that end up as industrial wastes from nearby factories. The owner's an engineer which makes the items on the shelves much more interesting. Thanks for suggesting the Pico! I never knew BTT had that model. I'll try it out on my next mini printer build! :D
Bro you make this look so easy and your even temperament while narrating makes it seem like it was a calm project with no issues. I know I would be cursing non-stop fighting with every part of this build lol
I don't know why seemingly nobody has done this other than you. I have parts for a voron variant I will be building after I move, but I might just have to do a welded printer too now.
First, the opening was genius 👏 Second, your FW instructions were great! I have no intention of building my own 3D printer. But, as a software engineer, I can appreciate a tutorial that is both detailed and efficient.
Awesome project! Thank you! I would also like to point out that some taps are for drilling. Some have a spiraled flutes and others have straight flutes. Spiral flutes eject the chips when tapping blind holes and straight flutes push them further down.
THIS IS AMAZING!!!! ill be getting some tubing this week! I need to get this in my home ASAP! once my printer shows up i will 1000% be needing to rewatch this! Im planning on making a 500mm³ coreXY so we will see! This is an amzing quick and to the point video and plenty of information packed into it! THANK YOU!!!!!
I rarely comment videos, but I have to on this one. THIS IS INSANE. I loved the video. The fact that most of the printer is homemade is just awesome. Very good job. Small tips : you could add a fan blowing on the SKR E3 for better cooling of the drivers. You could also do go direct drive by printing a Sherpa Mini/Micro extruder housing, and just get cheap BMG internals and a cheap Nema 14 8/10 teeths motor. You could also print frame braces to stiffen the frame more, as you plan on printing fast with it. Good job again !
Thank you! That sherpa BMG tip sounds good! I'll consider it! :D While I haven't had problems with my SKR Minis running without fans, my peace of mind does suffer thinking one day it could break without cooling. Thanks for bringing this out, you've encouraged me enough to add fans on it. Cheers!
How cool! When you were mentioning how you still prefer a glass bed and hairspray I kept shouting "YES!" Hahaha. I've been printing for 10+ years on multiple printers, and hairspray on glass is still my favorite. It works on every material I've ever tried, and always just releases once cool. Every. Time. 😊
Man i know how much i want to build a voron but seeing how you made this with local shops has inspired me to design my own printer! I didnt know you could buy rails for so cheap here in manila either, thanks for this video
I'm very experienced with Enders and CR10s. And agree with all of your points! Love glass beds and use hairspray. I'm not solid on the mechanical side of things, this is very very impressive. I'd consider myself an expert on the 3D printing side, and you nail every point. You are impressive, man!
This is an excellent walk through. Love the narrative. The PDF is an amazing bonus. I'm subscribing! Will be using your tutorial next time I need to fudge with my firmware.
Fantastic job! I watched the whole thing. I am an electrical engineer myself and like rto build things, but this was extreme! I have a Bambu A1 and love it, and wouldn't have the time to build something like this. I'll stick to small projects, but you gave me ideas that can be used for other things.
Nice work! It's awesome to see a young engineer getting his hands dirty! There's no substitute for practical experience, it makes one a well-rounded problem solver. The pi-filter on the LED power supply is a nice touch! I also like the way you adapted that 128x64 LCD panel, and homebrewed a filament-out sensor. These are common problems and sharing those solutions helps everyone. Thanks for that. I'll be curious to see the results when you do the input-shaping tests. Your frame should be very stiff and has a good bit of mass (Did you mention the weight? I missed it.) Anyway, the resonances should be at a pretty high frequency -- I bet you'll be able to get some good speed out of this thing. Keep facing down those challenges -- it makes for a fun video!
really impressive work👍👍 man I wish I had you as a neighbor, someone that could actually create the all the stuff that just keeps popping up in my head that I only wish I could do😅😂
I really liked the clear explanation on how to build corexy printer. I would like to try something like this in a near future after learning a bit more about this stuff :)
Nice build! A little trick for taping you threads with ease and without ever breaking a tap: mount it on your hand drill, and use the chuck torque limiter... The drill will always spin better than your hands... Never broke a tap this way!
Well done! the quality is shocking, but the fact that you still designed it and it works is an achievement lol You got skills and luckily for you, you can get the parts cheap enough to make a monster. Well done once again!
Thank you, it means a lot! The first one was built with me clinging on to hopes and dreams 😅 I was quite surprised as well to the MK2 worked on it's first test haha
@@TechBuilder Well ive subscribed now, so i can keep an eye on you in the future haha. I know you do other things, but we will see what you come up with in the future! Im a designer too with ideas, but im not on youtube yet. Still tinkering in the background until my debut haha. 🤫
Interesting build and I appreciate that you didn't advertise this as a straight savings. Your build is a pure example that saving money can be achieved by using alternate materials and complementing with more labour. Would I do this instead of purchasing an out of the box machine? No, your total cost was probably only a minor savings at best versus today's printer costs on sale. But, this is an excellent showcase in how having resources can usually save some money.
small tip to measure squareness: measure the diagonals, if they're equal, it's square (well, rectangular) it's surprisingly accurate, and it's basically the only way to do it on bigger builds like sheds and houses.
Watched this whole thing knowing I’d never take the time to make my own printer. Really good video and put together very well. I’m sure all of the editing and footage took a lot of time!
Thank you! The editing took more than 2 weeks to finish apparently. It made me feel burnt out as of the moment, I'll probably take a few weeks of rest before I start the next video haha
It’s funny.. I’m in the US. I can’t (at least in my area) find ANY stores like you all have for used industrial components (old Linear Rails w/ bearings sold by the pound?? 🤯) I can buy the shit new all day, but if I want to do super low budget, I better know someone, work somewhere that has lax rules, or have spares already. I respect the hell out of this build, and I literally come back to watch this video all the time. I love what you did with it and how you did it.
Your timing is literally insane. This past weekend I was talking about your channel. We were talking about youtube channels from the Philippines and I mentioned this channel and then quickly browsed the channel to see if I had missed an upload or anything and obviously there wasn't one. This happens way to often to be a coincidence. Seriously I have had this happen like 5 or 6 times where I randomly looked up a "dead" channel to see if I missed anything and then within a couple of days theres a new video.
The best results ive gotten with glass and PLA was to clean it using dish soap and hot water. No coating. The PLA shrinks at a different rate so it sticks well during printing then pops off when the parts start to cool off.
I'm Back! :D Some of the cruddy components used were intentional. I just wanted to bring life to some of my old discarded 3D printing components. Holding a square with shorts, the machine is not designed to be a precision build, it was literally just a frugal project for the thrill of doing so. I'll update you all when I migrate to Klipper. Hopefully input shaping would make an impact on the next test prints.
Finally brother I thought you quit UA-cam but now I am really happy to see you back
this time please don't make us wait whole year
Would you also share the step files next to the solidworks files, to open the design on other CAD software
Yay
Thought you quit lol
Waiting for part 2,3,4 of the mppt :D
PLEASE get some grease in your linear rails , the sould like they are completely dry and will die QUICK
This reminds me so much of the starting days of 3d printing, when there were no kits or tools specific for 3d printers, so you had to go around the hardware shop to find what you needed and use old pc power supplies as power source....
And in the end if you printed a cube that looked more or less like a cube it was such a success
Those were the days! 😭I can recall when I was little and asked my parents for a RepRap, I had a hard time convincing (in 2010) on how useful it can be at home. I waited a few years later until I can afford a printer with my savings, eventually I got the Anet A6 (i3 clone). I really missed the days when a bunch of parts I never knew existed (that all came in a box) and had to install them like Legos. The first print was the most rewarding thing I've ever felt at that time. The excitement would probably have been much more intense back during the pre RepRap's Mendel era, those things were so bare and crude getting to print a cube would have been indeed immensely rewarding.
This is a great inspiration because I have tons of old parts lying around. I started with the Mendel v2, un 2011. The only place to get printed parts was through eBay, and hardware vitamins and minerals from Home Depot. there were no commercial printers designed for desktop. We printed our own extruders from PLA or ABS - and they worked better than the MK series without gear reduction. There were no 1.75 versions, and now I'm left with dozens of spools of 3mm (not 2.85, actually 3mm) spools. I am designing a retrofit extruder.
the old saying i was taught as a kid learning to weld, "a grinder and paint make me the welder i ain't" i still use a lotta grinder and paint lol
Thank you for reminding me of the quote! I had trouble recalling the original quote during the narration haha. I'll never forget it this time around!
@@TechBuilder I was tought it as: Grinder and Paint makes you the Welder you ain't.
You beat me to it 👍
Some notes about welding from a professional MIG welder;
Get comfortable. Don't be anxious or anything; welding requires a steady hand. Especially on thin steel like you're doing here. Sit down to weld until you get comfortable enough to stand and weld.
Get your face closer to the weld, so you can really see what's happening. Don't be scared of it. Yes, weld spatter will get on you. Yes, it burns. You get used to it. I usually weld with my face as close to the weld as I can, less than a foot (30 cm) away at most. You need to be able to see the weld puddle flowing to where you want it to go. The puddle will do what it wants and you must simply guide it in the direction you want it to go.
You need gloves. That will let you get closer to your project and brace yourself for smoother lines. Imagine trying to draw a perfectly smooth, straight line with a pencil on paper without touching the desk, while holding the pencil by the eraser with one hand. This is effectively how you're welding here. Use your off hand as a brace for your torch hand to pivot on, don't grab the torch with both hands. I usually rest my elbow or forearm on the bench. Also, what you're using as a thumb rest is just a hook to hang the torch by.
Torch height and angle is very important. This is what appears to have caused the excessive spatter and the majority of holes in your welds. Proper height and angle allows for correct heat distribution and wire feed for good penetration, assuming you're using flux-core wire. If you're not, then you need gas and height and angle are even more important so the weld puddle stays shielded by the gas. You want to stay between 5-15 degrees from perpendicular, and the wire should stick out around 3/8" (1 cm) from the nozzle. If you're using flux-core, you should "drag" the torch away from the weld, and double the stick out to 3/4" (2 cm). Also, flux-core wire produces slag that needs to be chipped away with a chipping hammer.
Very basic settings guide: If it's just popping and not making a consistent puddle, turn your wire feed speed up. If you're getting excess spatter with correct torch height and angle, turn your feed speed down. If you're making a weld that looks like a worm sitting on the surface of the metal, turn your heat up. If you're burning through too quickly, turn your heat down.
Of course, settings are very important. But you also have to match your travel speed to your settings. Too fast and you won't get good enough penetration. Too slow and you'll burn a hole right through. You want it to have a consistent "sizzling" sound, and the edges of the weld should be flush with the surrounding material. Also, make sure to match your wire to the type of welding you're doing. Pay attention to the diameter. You'll need different torch tips for different wire diameters. Tips and cups are consumables, and will need to be replaced often. Gloves and hood glass, too. I go through a glass a day, a pair of gloves a week, and tips every few days. Of course, I'm welding 10 hours a day.
Finally, welding is a skill. It takes practice. It took me at least 100 hours to feel even somewhat comfortable doing what I'm doing. Practice on anything you can find to weld together. Start with welding on flat, then progress to vertical. Get comfortable; you should feel like you're sitting at a desk and doodling. Grind your metal before welding it. Weld straight lines on a scrap piece of metal. Practice different weld joints, starting with butt welds, then progress to laps and corners. You're doing great, for a beginner. My welds looked worse.
Thank you for this masterclass writeup!
As a custom metal fabricator for around 15 years now, mainly TIG but also a lot of MIG where applicable, this is really solid advice.
The one thing I would emphasize after you have your feed and gas settings dialed is the " Use your off hand as a brace for your torch hand to pivot on, don't grab the torch with both hands." as mentioned above. You don't write by holding the eraser side of the pencil with your hand unsupported, and this is the same concept.
Stability is key and once you become more proficient, you will find other ways to brace yourself. Using your off hand as a brace will improve your results immediately.
Also, invest in a die grinder and some nice carbide burrs or cartridge rolls, they will help you clean up anything nasty looking on the inside corners. Anti spatter can also help with cleanup and nozzle gel can prolong the life of your consumables.
Other than that, keep it up! Welding is a skill like riding a bike, the more you do it the better you will be.
Wow thx man!
I would recommend to the whole frame first, checking angles and then doing the final weld all over
As far as getting right up in the weld, let's make sure the galvanized coating is removed before getting close. You don't want to be breathing fumes of burning zinc.
I'll be honest and say this is one of the most interesting builds videos I have ever watched. Proper use of what you have instead of buying all new fancy things. Excellent work buddy.
Thanks man! It means a lot! :D
+1
Wherever you graduated from, your professors did a wonderful job at imparting problem solving skills. Your speedrun build is spot on!
That wasn’t the professors.
I clicked on this thinking it would be click bait. But no, it's an excellent build that you've put together. It would be nice one day to build my own printer.
Thank you. Take your time, and do it when you feel when you are ready. Cheers!
Great architecture, build, budget, filming, editing and story telling. Just the righr amount of everything. Either you are a natural or you've out a ton of brain, sweat, budget and rime into this. Totally impressed!
Thank you!
@@TechBuilder hes seriously correct. really.
The best explanation of a scratch build i have ever seen.
Thank you! :))
Oh man, all that welding and stuff that can fall on your feet and you're wearing sandals. You are a warrior
That is Asia....always a fight with my people to take proper eye protection and not 50 cent sunglasses
Proper Filipino shop footwear is sandals
it might as well be law
Thank you! I came to the same conclusion as you the other day when I decided that a small print farm would be useful and considering that i have a fiber laser CNC cutter and fiber laser welder I'm going to weld up steel frames out of steel plate cut on the CNC. I was so excited by your video. Thank you again for the extremely clear build documentation and thought process.
Thank you so much! I hope the video helps on your next big venture! Man those CNCs would help a lot as well!! Let me know how it goes! :D
I absolutely love how you routed all of the wires underneath/behind the controller board and then had them come from the bottom and connect to the board.
It looks so clean! Very well done!
This is actually an amazing process that clearly shows how much design decisions and intricate details goes into our everyday 3D printers that we often complain about, and makes me really appriciate new companies like Bambu, that they turned this technology into almost proper appliances. Also I loved your commentary on top of every detail, thank you for this!
I had fun putting my first Voron 0 together but that frugal design constraint takes things to a new level! Nothing fascinates me more than utilizing spares remnants of the past, on to a modern motion system. Hands down, I would love to see more of these! Perhaps make a segment called "Cheap Thrills"! Might be the next McGyver series. Amazing work Angelo! 💯
I had fun! You might be on to something with that "Cheap Thrills" segment idea! Thank you!!!
Awesome job dude, steel is actually a great choice, it can be more thermally stable over Aluminium and carbon fibre and is also cheap and very strong, the added weight will also help.
Welding; Some tips here from a automotive fabbricobbler:
Get shielding gas and throw that core flux garbage in the bin.
Tap weld first each corner, i'd fabricate this by building the top and bottom squares first, just a spot weld on each corner, cross measure, machinist square to check it's square too, and you should be able to get within 0.1mm relatively easily with just tape measure -- errors show exponentially when cross referencing.
Add more spot welds, allow that corner to cool while spot welding the opposite, and go cross hatch opposites, regularly rechecking it remains square. REMEMBER; Smaller the issue, bigger the hammer! So if you are off by say 0.25mm you'll need a big hammer. Fortunately, small single handled steel mallets are only like 5$
Remember to well all 4 sides fully for maximal strength.
Cooling allow the stresses to give up, and as you add spot welds, it gets harder and harder to get off square, but more internal stresses will build if you go too fast.
After the 2 squares are done, then just the uprights, same process but this time after first or second spot welds on each corner i would probably add on top a 25kg or 2 sacks as weight to force it to be in place and allow me to weld it faster together. Otherwise the same procedure. Slow is smooth, smooth is fast; So without weights and time you can get it better squared.
**NOW ALTERNATIVE METHOD**
Print huge stiff corner brackets on 45 degree angle. Adjustable, no welding, no heat shrinkage / thermal expansion / thermal warp issues.
See how Slant3D has made their Mason printers.
Tho much less stiff, you need 10x thickness for PLA to be as stiff as steel. So for 1.5mm wall steel RHS, you need 15mm walls, or a minimum of 15mm fully solid plastic to match the stiffness.
Flex core has the deepest penetration when run with shielded gas industrial welder and heavy equipment welder lots of buckets . Use tig gas with helium for the deepest pen on flex core wire . 7018 equivalent
@skaltura To me, that seems like a lot of plastic to leave in place on those extrusion that make up your gantry axes, if all they're doing is holding your extrusions together. It also seems like plenty of space to embed nuts into the plastic. What would you say to printing a batch of two or three part encapsulating corner brackets as guides to hold the box extrusions in place while welding them or while using stopper caps to bolt them together?
Also, while I'm peripherally aware of the stigma against them (in that I know it exists), would a battery handheld unit be enough for this task, and would it still need wire and inert gas?
This is a really impressive demonstration of working with constrained resources and still producing excellent results. Amazing sir.
Your config set up document is exactly what I need to help me with my project. Thank you and great printer!
Thanks! Hope it helps! :D
$27 gets you just under 1m of 1" steel square tubing at Home Depot in the USA. Absolutely insane. Metal suppliers obviously have better rates, but still way more. I was just so surprised by how cheap it was there, though obviously I know incomes and all are much different.
Over $140 at those rates to make your printer frame, hahaha.
@@802Garage built a tv mount that used about 20' of 1inch tubing, was $150, way over priced. Definitely a must to lookup near by suppliers.
some suppliers require a large purchase, but some let you pick up if you buy a small amount.
It's interesting to learn about the prices of materials from different parts of the globe. But from my last trip there, I was shocked how much a board of plywood costs at Lowe's and Home Depot. In the Philippines, some tend to work abroad to save and retire back here. Probably due to a similar thing haha
@@802Garage $140?!? That's intense 😭
Filet mignon is 30 plus dollars in the US. In Malawi its 5 bucks and it's got nothing to do with economics. The people just don't like steak there .
I have had an almost identical design floating around in my head for almost a year now. Just don’t have a welder. You’re my hero!
what a great video man. i wasn't bored for a second during the building process and im still astonished how this produced a better benchy than my ender 3 considering that u had to make ur frame and all. also love the fact that you arent just buying everything and it made me realise that i can actually just make some stuff for my printer instead of shelling out money. also love the simplistic filament run out imma yoink that design for myself
Thank you! It means a lot! Have fun yu!
I know you said this was your first foray into mig welding, just a word of caution for you, besides your inexperience with welding, the fact that the steel was galvanised would be another reason you had issues, but the big concern is that you tried to weld through the zinc instead of grinding it away before you weld. This is a big no-no in fabrication and should be avoided at all costs. You are young and most likely not had any issues because of it, but please, going forward, remove the shiney coating before welding .or better still, just don't do it.
Inhaling zinc fumes will cause cancer. Welding without proper clothing will cause melanoma (also cancer). And yeah, galvanized metal is overkill if he's just gonna paint it anyway.
Nu uh
You can actually tell by the uniformity of the surface that this is definitely not galvanized. Galvanized almost always has variations and or a pattern, along with a silvery color that looks like silver spray paint. This is most definitely plain uncoated cheap mild steel. But this is the internet, and there are always know it alls that have to add their incorrect inputs. So keep doing your thing!
Who's correct!? How will we know now! Ahhhhh! Should we be upset at this kids profound, potentially cancer causing, mistake? Should we just frown at this commenter for his misinformation? WHO IS CORRECT! I need a third commentator!
Whoever's more recent is correct
This is really awesome. The quality for the speed on such a budget and built so much from scratch is really cool. Thanks for sharing with us!
Thanks man! It means a lot!
THAT’S INSANE, mad respect to your skill! You’ve redefined what it means to be a builder. Even without input shaper equipped yet, it’s almost as fast as my ratrig. I’m really excited for you to get hold of klipper.
This thing is seriously awesome, and you've given me the inspiration to try it myself.
Thanks man, I'm glad you liked it! Enjoy! :D
Great presentation! TOTALLY AWESOME! I've built mine around 2021-22 and put it aside and I only needed to adjust the temperature and was getting 98% on the first layer printing. Bought my 1st printer in 2024 and plan on working on my first one to get it working properly. Once again GREAT JOB!
I love this so much!! This is my first time seeing your channel, and I've already subscribed! I graduate this semester with my degree in mechanical engineering, and even though I already have a few great 3D printers, I would love to finally be able to build my own! Also, I'm really impressed with the Google Drive - it's insane that you're sharing those plans for free!
Thank you!!! Congratulations my man!!!! I hope it helps, enjoy! :D
Absolute cinema start.
This is really cool, might try this.
as a mechatronics major..i am jealous of that store
You're not alone🥲
absolutely brilliant! and of course you just released this after I spent a sleepless night pondering how much one could feasibly reduce the part count on a corexy. turns out one can actually make a single-arm gantry (so sort of like a Prusa mini but corexy) with some minor tweaks to the belt paths! Thanks to your inspiration I might actually build that at some point.
Thank you! Indeed you can.
Looks like a really good printer!
Also I chuckled a bit at the linear rails for 10 bucks per kilo. That is untinkable where I live but good find!
Edit: The skr pico might have been cheaper than the skr mini e3 v3, it was for me.
Thank you!!!! I'm really glad the shop exists here! Diving in their used industrial section's my fave. They give a second life to the parts that end up as industrial wastes from nearby factories. The owner's an engineer which makes the items on the shelves much more interesting. Thanks for suggesting the Pico! I never knew BTT had that model. I'll try it out on my next mini printer build! :D
what this video thaught me is that everything in my country is a giant ripoff.
Bro you make this look so easy and your even temperament while narrating makes it seem like it was a calm project with no issues. I know I would be cursing non-stop fighting with every part of this build lol
9:53 face protection while cutting steel, but flip-flops on the feet 🤣
I have sinned @osha 😭
I didn't know how I got unsubscribed from this channel. I've been following this channel from the very start... continue the good work brother
Finally!! I found someone who builds 3D printers, and whose english isn't crap! (Your english is really good in my opinion)
Probably one of the best 3D printer build vidéo I’ve ever saw.
Thank you! :D
4:43 I've always heard "A grinder and paint makes you the welder you aint"
I don't know why seemingly nobody has done this other than you. I have parts for a voron variant I will be building after I move, but I might just have to do a welded printer too now.
klipper would be a good upgrade
I really excited too! I cant wait to hook up that ADXL sensor.
Bravo, questo è stato uno dei film più belli sull'edilizia che abbia visto da molto tempo! 🤌
“coping with a breakup” sorry for snooping on your search history @ 22:38 the two of you broke up?!?!?! I hope our guy’s okay!
I'm amazed you've even noticed that. All is well! Thanks!
this is literally my favourite Diy printer videol. great vids
First, the opening was genius 👏
Second, your FW instructions were great! I have no intention of building my own 3D printer. But, as a software engineer, I can appreciate a tutorial that is both detailed and efficient.
The explanation of your design flow is what sets your videos apart from all others on youtube! Keep it up!
I am watching your video from 2016 and now here we are I am so glad that you came back love from India
Akalain mo, I am here in California and what I found who can help me on 3D printing is a kababayan in Manila. And galing mom pre, more power to you.
the dedication and quality of information in your video is astonishing
After building my first Voron recently, this video is way more approachable than I would have thought 6 months ago.
Awesome project! Thank you! I would also like to point out that some taps are for drilling. Some have a spiraled flutes and others have straight flutes. Spiral flutes eject the chips when tapping blind holes and straight flutes push them further down.
This is the most captivating video on building a printer ive ever seen, kudos to you sir
The video you referenced for the Marlin Firmware is THE video to watch for real. Dude did an amazing job.
The printer is sick
Thanks for the quality content!
Thank you so much!!!! I deeply appreciate your support! I hope you’ll enjoy the next vids, I took some luv and time to make them ☺️
I applaud your attempt at MIG welding! It's not easy to keep everything square or to stack pretty beads so bravo for trying. 👏 This is a cool project!
dude, i cant typically spare 30 min of my day for a yt vid but that was excellent! Great job :) And you are a great presenter.
THIS IS AMAZING!!!! ill be getting some tubing this week! I need to get this in my home ASAP! once my printer shows up i will 1000% be needing to rewatch this! Im planning on making a 500mm³ coreXY so we will see! This is an amzing quick and to the point video and plenty of information packed into it! THANK YOU!!!!!
Thanks for sharing all of your work! Great detail and very thorough. I need to catch up on your more recent videos to see how it's performing.
This was actually great to watch. In the future you could make a lot of money with your talent.
This is SO cool man!
You're really giving me the motivation to finally start the large-format printer I've been daydreaming about for years!
Thank you! I hope this helps with your future build! :)
You have seriously motivated me. I'm gonna make one.
I rarely comment videos, but I have to on this one. THIS IS INSANE. I loved the video. The fact that most of the printer is homemade is just awesome. Very good job.
Small tips : you could add a fan blowing on the SKR E3 for better cooling of the drivers.
You could also do go direct drive by printing a Sherpa Mini/Micro extruder housing, and just get cheap BMG internals and a cheap Nema 14 8/10 teeths motor.
You could also print frame braces to stiffen the frame more, as you plan on printing fast with it.
Good job again !
Thank you! That sherpa BMG tip sounds good! I'll consider it! :D
While I haven't had problems with my SKR Minis running without fans, my peace of mind does suffer thinking one day it could break without cooling. Thanks for bringing this out, you've encouraged me enough to add fans on it. Cheers!
How cool! When you were mentioning how you still prefer a glass bed and hairspray I kept shouting "YES!" Hahaha. I've been printing for 10+ years on multiple printers, and hairspray on glass is still my favorite. It works on every material I've ever tried, and always just releases once cool. Every. Time. 😊
I initially thought UA-cam is pushing another clic bait.. But you have done a great job with this one.. Impressive.
Epic video! You are quite talented, thanks for sharing your talents with others! You inspire!
just a kid and a hole set of industrial tools, truly inspiring.
Very nice! I acquired a Bambu A1 about a week ago, but your build was very interesting! Earned my subscription for sure!
Man i know how much i want to build a voron but seeing how you made this with local shops has inspired me to design my own printer! I didnt know you could buy rails for so cheap here in manila either, thanks for this video
I am absolutely amazed by your skills. This video really caught me and wouldn’t let go. Bravo!
This was easily the best 3D printing video I have seen in a very long time 👍
Hell yeah
Thank you!! :)
I'm very experienced with Enders and CR10s. And agree with all of your points! Love glass beds and use hairspray. I'm not solid on the mechanical side of things, this is very very impressive. I'd consider myself an expert on the 3D printing side, and you nail every point. You are impressive, man!
This is an excellent walk through. Love the narrative. The PDF is an amazing bonus. I'm subscribing! Will be using your tutorial next time I need to fudge with my firmware.
I'm not sure how I came across with this video, but I'm glad I did. Great content and excellent project, an inspiration to creative minds.
Subscribed.
Thank you, it means a lot!!! See you around! :D
Fantastic job! I watched the whole thing. I am an electrical engineer myself and like rto build things, but this was extreme! I have a Bambu A1 and love it, and wouldn't have the time to build something like this. I'll stick to small projects, but you gave me ideas that can be used for other things.
Nice work! It's awesome to see a young engineer getting his hands dirty! There's no substitute for practical experience, it makes one a well-rounded problem solver.
The pi-filter on the LED power supply is a nice touch! I also like the way you adapted that 128x64 LCD panel, and homebrewed a filament-out sensor. These are common problems and sharing those solutions helps everyone. Thanks for that.
I'll be curious to see the results when you do the input-shaping tests. Your frame should be very stiff and has a good bit of mass (Did you mention the weight? I missed it.) Anyway, the resonances should be at a pretty high frequency -- I bet you'll be able to get some good speed out of this thing.
Keep facing down those challenges -- it makes for a fun video!
Thank you! It means a lot! I’m kinda excited to try input shaping with klipper, I’ll share the results when I do get to try it.
Fantastic video! It inspired me to build a 3D printer from scratch in the future. Keep up the great work!
Well done.. this is amazing. This reminds me of the good old days. The tinkerer in me is so happy.
really impressive work👍👍 man I wish I had you as a neighbor, someone that could actually create the all the stuff that just keeps popping up in my head that I only wish I could do😅😂
It's really cool that you have a shop where you can buy things like linear rails and actuators!
I really liked the clear explanation on how to build corexy printer. I would like to try something like this in a near future after learning a bit more about this stuff :)
Awesome job Angelo! Thank you for your contributions to RepRap Community!
Thank you too! :)
Grinder and paint, makes me the welder I ain't!
Jokes aside, well done on the build! Superb!
Man ... I'm so happy to see you again sharing your amazing ideas and projects ... Very missed you !!!
Thanks my dude!
Nice build! A little trick for taping you threads with ease and without ever breaking a tap: mount it on your hand drill, and use the chuck torque limiter...
The drill will always spin better than your hands...
Never broke a tap this way!
What a talented guy
Good to watch someone way more intelligent and creative doing something I could only dream of. Well done on the build 👏 👍
Well done! the quality is shocking, but the fact that you still designed it and it works is an achievement lol You got skills and luckily for you, you can get the parts cheap enough to make a monster. Well done once again!
Thank you, it means a lot! The first one was built with me clinging on to hopes and dreams 😅 I was quite surprised as well to the MK2 worked on it's first test haha
@@TechBuilder Well ive subscribed now, so i can keep an eye on you in the future haha. I know you do other things, but we will see what you come up with in the future! Im a designer too with ideas, but im not on youtube yet. Still tinkering in the background until my debut haha. 🤫
Interesting build and I appreciate that you didn't advertise this as a straight savings. Your build is a pure example that saving money can be achieved by using alternate materials and complementing with more labour. Would I do this instead of purchasing an out of the box machine? No, your total cost was probably only a minor savings at best versus today's printer costs on sale. But, this is an excellent showcase in how having resources can usually save some money.
people like you are the reason i want to become an engineer, you are so cool man!
Awsome video! Like the fact you talk about every litte detail, i am building my own corexy printer and this helps me a lot with the firmware, thanks!
Bro, i can't even know how to praise you.
You da real mvp, can't believe these knowlage is for FREE.
Thanks! Well the ads are what keeps vids like this going. But for plans and files, I intend to keep it the way it is :)
Love how you kept yourself to the budget, eventually I want to do a build like this someday
Ok, I would kill for this. I am truly amazed and astounded. My only 3d printer started a fire and shorted out my wall socket. lol
Almost as fast without input shaping as my ratrig v-core3, nice job!
Really?! I never knew this one came close. Thank you!
small tip to measure squareness: measure the diagonals, if they're equal, it's square (well, rectangular) it's surprisingly accurate, and it's basically the only way to do it on bigger builds like sheds and houses.
Great video!! I love the whole diy and reusing old parts theme. I've been slowly collecting scrap for a similar build.
Watched this whole thing knowing I’d never take the time to make my own printer. Really good video and put together very well. I’m sure all of the editing and footage took a lot of time!
Thank you! The editing took more than 2 weeks to finish apparently. It made me feel burnt out as of the moment, I'll probably take a few weeks of rest before I start the next video haha
It’s funny.. I’m in the US. I can’t (at least in my area) find ANY stores like you all have for used industrial components (old Linear Rails w/ bearings sold by the pound?? 🤯)
I can buy the shit new all day, but if I want to do super low budget, I better know someone, work somewhere that has lax rules, or have spares already.
I respect the hell out of this build, and I literally come back to watch this video all the time. I love what you did with it and how you did it.
Your timing is literally insane. This past weekend I was talking about your channel. We were talking about youtube channels from the Philippines and I mentioned this channel and then quickly browsed the channel to see if I had missed an upload or anything and obviously there wasn't one. This happens way to often to be a coincidence. Seriously I have had this happen like 5 or 6 times where I randomly looked up a "dead" channel to see if I missed anything and then within a couple of days theres a new video.
It happens to me as well haha
This was really inspirational, really makes you want to get out and just make stuff!
True engineering here you deserve more views
Thanks man!
The best results ive gotten with glass and PLA was to clean it using dish soap and hot water. No coating. The PLA shrinks at a different rate so it sticks well during printing then pops off when the parts start to cool off.
Excellent video! You showed really good skills, technical knowledge and craftsmanship. I really enjoyed watching it.