@@dimkinlv - definitely clickbait. It suckered me. Some people do this to help themselves instead of to help the community. Just wasted 12 minutes of my life.
I just got my CR10 S5 and it seems to be broken. I certainly didn't have the luxury of putting it together & printing in 2 hours. Closer to 2 days and still not printing (unless printing off the back of the bed counts). After 2 days of troubleshooting/youtubing/web searching, I've come to the conclusion that it's defective and it's a fairly common occurrence among the CR10's. Wish I had been one of the lucky few who received a CR10 that actually prints out of the box.
This is pure clickbait in my opinion. You are certainly aware that a lot of people take you seriously and thought you had a serious complaint about the printer. The video doesn't serve any purpose other than advertising your Gearbest links.
It's admittedly a little click-baity. It's difficult to approach a review of something everyone else has already done. Still, I'm genuine about the panic this induced and I hope it was amusing.
Admittedly I was amused, sort of, but cringed because I was concerned about comments like this...LOL You took both sides of an ionized community (CR-10 haters and lovers) and then via title or content, potentially upset the more delicate and sensitive members of both the communities. I do find it amusing, but more in pejorative way than a positive.
I expected some criticism about not having dual z, sd slot that is finicky, control box fans running constantly or the lack of strain relief on the heated bed. Everything you mentioned isn't a huge deal to me
In my experience the biggest issue people have with big prints is user error. Its pretty rare i see an issue the printer caused. It usually boils down to improper infill level, bad first layer or unclean bed creating adhesion loss, or filament inaccuracy. If you make sure your slicing it right and preveiwing the print to watch for issues like air printing an area that needs more infill, knowing your filament quality, etc, then big prints can be a very forgiving venture.
I guess you're one of the few lucky ones that didn't get a warped heated bed and glass build plate. I "fixed" mine with some pieces of tin foil under the mirrored glass tile that I used to replace the glass that came with the machine.
I love my Creality CR-10s, it's my first 3D printer and I'm making professional quality 3D prints after only having it a months or so and just learning about tweaking the settings and getting it to perform at its best. It's a great printer at a great price and with so many options and settings, it's better than some printers twice the price I paid for mine, the build volume is huge, which is great. I only have one little itty-bitty gripe, Cura LIES, when it says it'll take 5 hours to complete a print, it really means 7, I had a print that was supposed to take just over 11 hours and it took 20 hours, it could be because of my layer height, but I just wish Cura would give a realistic build-time, not just pick some arbitrary number out of the air and say, "yeah, it'll take x hours". That's not the printers fault though and after some practise, the printer is performing admirably, the little bulldog clips that hold the glass on the heated bed only bother me then they snag on my clothes or something and go pinging off, otherwise I have no problem with them. I'm really pleased I got this as my first step into the world of 3D printing, now friends and family are fascinated and constantly asking me to make little things for them or design something in Blender for them! I learn something new every day and enjoy using my CR-10s a lot as I'm constantly learning something new. And yes, it does print in the softer materials like TPU as well as wood and copper.
Ok Professor, first I love about 90% of what you do, but I would never make a video called "The problem with the CR10". You may want to change your title. Second, just about EVERY CR-10 forum says right up front, the GCODE is bad. You scared me with the title and was almost enough to thumbs down. Please change the title before the thumbs down come before they watch the whole video. I have a CR-10 I bought after my IIIP died and I love it. Glad you got one too. I have made some incredible stuff on this machine.
LOL, Just don't want to see a bunch of thumbs down for the title. Its a great video and a great printer. Just some friendly advice about the title. Also another great tie!
Doag, I was not triggered, just giving some advice to prevent a bunch of other people giving a thumbs down just based on the title. I love the Professor and what he does. My name is on his wall. I also think he is grown up enough to receive some constructive criticism and I am grown up enough to give it. I thumbs upped this video and I think the professor is great but to quote him, I am not so enamored with him that I am not willing to tell him that the title may cause some folks to thumbs down on what is otherwise a great video. So lets scale back the drama Doag and not use words and phrases like "Grow Up" and "Triggered" and not be snowflakes when someone has an opinion that is contrary to yours. Maybe we could have a grown up conversation with out inflammatory comments.
I might have gotten a little carried away, looking for a different angle. But even UA-cam's demonitization flagged this video, which is less of a red flag than it should be with so many false positives, but still. I apologize for the stress.
Jason Baker thumbs make no difference. If someone thumbs down one of my vids out of the 500+ i have. Oh well. Haters gonna hate. I have 3 people that thumb down my videos regardless of the content or quality. Doesnt effect anything or chance anyone else will watch the content. Doesnt effect the monetization. Doesnt effect my subscriber count. Its a veiw count +1, regardless which is all that truely counts in the world of youtube.
I clicked on both of your Gearbest links and can't figure out why one is $508 and the other is $379. What's the difference between the two? Is it only the color?
Marcus Adams i think the blue one is the older one and the orange one os the newer improved one. Not sure, but thats what i heard. And it may be the other way around
The more expensive version has dual motors on the z axis and a filament detector. Be very careful of GearBest. I tried dealing with them and had problems. After a little bit of research, tons of people had problems with them. I ended up going to Amazon, paying a bit more and actually getting my product
Jared Say I would. Best for money, size etc. the prints are amazing and you can use tons of materials including the ninja flax by printing a simple attachment for the extruder. I have been blown away by the printer. Check out the cr10 on multiple channels. I have found it to be the most popular and widely used printer. Let’s face it, who has thousands to blow on a printer that prints 3 inch tall models at max. This prints big. Yes takes hours if you go max size and want to keep quality but it is worth it. Also you can adjust speed, fill, and nozzle ends to speed up printing. Go in the search engine and check it out. Also all creality printers are upgradable and for a low cost too. This also can be altered later into your own build printer. Anyhoo, just UA-cam it:)
Just got my CR-10 and first it would not read the SD card. Got that fixed but now the extrusion servo runs the wrong way and feeds the filament back out fast when it starts to print. Connector cannot just simply be reversed so waiting on a fix. I have seen other post on this problem but never an answer given.
When I transferred my gcode from to a folder on my desktop, and then transfered that file to my sd card there was an error in the gcode. Long story short it skipped a few layers on the x axis. When I printed the same file but exported directly from cura to my sd card it didn’t happen. Could have been filament issues as well. But it was weird
Just received my c-10S from Amazon on friday (sunday now) haven’t had time to assemble it yet, to many house chores right now. But good to know that the included g-code demo files are corrupted. I did identify at thingyverse some fixes for the c-10, those will be first printed items.
I dont think software end stops are enabled on the cr10 either as when I printed the cat thats on the SD card about halfway through the print it started smacking the y axis carriage into the MAX end of the Y axis... needless to say I ended up with a headless cat
That is a model I created myself. It's a part of the #lowpolydino fundraiser that I'm still working on, but will be delivered soon. You can get in now and get it as well has 39 other models (more with variations) right now, and receive them as soon as they drop. www.3dpprofessor.com/2018/07/pre-post-kickstarter-pricing-on.html
3D Printing Professor hey thanks for writing back i am glad I can print it my self btw I am 14 and a girl I love 3d printers and I am getting a cr 10 it is almost shipped from amazon. Lol thanks again
Hey 3D Printing Professor, thanks for your thoughts on this - subbed. Just a question about the RPi case and touch screen. Do you have links to those? Cheers, JAYTEE
For the Raspberry Pi I used this case, modified, of course, with my own logo: www.youmagine.com/designs/raspberry-pi-case-model-b-2-3 The touchscreen is the Adafruit 4.5" TFT touchscreen, which now that I've had a bit of time to experiment don't recommend. I'm doing some experiments with a 7" HDMI touch screen and if all goes well I'll be making a video about setting it up. The rest is a super custom rig to hold a webcam you can't even buy any more to the extrusion frame. It literally includes two types of glue. I won't be releasing this one, but when I finish my next experiments I will be releasing it.
I just ordered the cr10s from a gearbest flash sale....looking forward to seeing what I can do with it. I’m actually relieved that the title was clickbaity and no big issues.
The 2 MP select mini v2’s in the background... lol I have one and it broke its own extruder after a year and a half. So I got a da Vinci 1.0 pro and it ripped out its own how end wires within the first week I had it so I returned it for a refund... that’s why I’m now looking at a CR-10...
The CR10S has 3 major innovations. Print loss recovery, filament out detection, and an accessible bootloader (I haven't tested this last one yet). The print loss recovery is accomplished by constantly writing to the SD card, so it's recommended to turn that off at you earliest convenience by updating the firmware (again, I haven't done this yet). So it's a question of whether the price is worth filament out detection and being able to upgrade it easier.
Hello, I have a Creality CR-10S Printer that I can't get to print. The z Axis goes up and down when homing but won't When Printing. It just stays on the first layer. Is this a printer problem or am i doing something wrong in Cura ?
Rather than the review of the CR-10, I'm more interested in the Raspberry Pi touchscreen interface. I've just seen people using OctoPi or dealing with the normal interface. Would the RPi one work on other printers?
gojyo Yes, Octoprint works on a lot of printers, but setup, especially with a touch screen, is tricky. Once it's set up, though, it's sooooo nice. Much better than Marlin.
A lot of hype to tell us not to use the sample g-code... I enjoy the videos! Looking forward to more in the future. Personally, I am looking into getting a high precision printer for printing abstracts and marketable models. I don’t know at what price does buying an sla/dlp beat an fdm, market evolves faster than I can track it and I was curious if you had any thoughts, budgeting myself around 1200 and I don’t need a massive volume
Got my new cr-10 and stupidly ran the nozzle into the build plate breaking it. Bought the one from microswiss as a replacement and the prints are absolutely insane.
Here's the original that still works on the X-axis. The beefed up one I use on my Y-Axis I haven't taken a picture of and posted yet. www.thingiverse.com/thing:2401764
It does, but I broke it when a print went bad. So I made one that's reenforced, but now it's too big to go around the X-Axis, so I only use it for the Y.
oh ok cool. i will try it, and eagerly await your beefed up revision. good video, even with the click baity title. personally, i would have liked to have seen them use a silicone heater, since the bed is so large and exposed. longer wiring would be nice. i really think they are on to something with this hot end design. its so simplistic, and compact, i think there is a lot that can be done with it. i am working on a dual extruder set up, stacking these stock hot ends.
If you read the other replies you'll see there was discussion of the Title being clickbait. I agree the title was misleading, but that's fine, he said what he didn't like. It wasn't clickbait since he COVERED his complaints, they were just a few, which serves the point that the machines is ACTUALLY exceptional for this price point. Got you to watch, yes? Nothing wrong with promoting your channel, and it was an excellent video.
It was a custom job to cobble together the hardware that I had on hand and it's still kinda WIP. Not read for prime time. As it standardizes with future projects I'll work on a release.
I ordered the cr10 and the first 2 prints I did off of was awesome then from that point on it was a disaster I tried all the settings in cura and the creality slicers then it wouldn't print at all it was moving around like it was printing but not putting anything down I bought simplified 3d and leveled the bed and it began printing again. Then it would be half way through a print and would be printing in mid air to the side making tumbleweed. I sold it to a coworker and he is having trouble with it too. I bought the peopoly phenom the large scale resin printer and it runs just perfect. I like watching everyone who can get their cr10s running wish I could have been in the crowd I did so many up grades to the cr10 I rebuilt it with no success. Good luck with your cr10 guess I got the bad one out of a thousand.
I got very lucky. My cr -10 works perfect and the SD card came perfect too. It’s been giving out amazing prints. I would totally recommend the printer. If someone bids on it and buys it I can promise you, you won’t be sorry. I loved it so much I have the creality Ender 5 plus coming tomorrow. I have printed big and the quality stays amazing. I got it Christmas Day and I have been running it 24/7. When you get something new you want to run it for hours. If something is going to go wrong with it you want to catch it in the first 30 days. So far I have had nothing but luck. Knock on wood:)
I just got a cr10 and I had a weird issue when I hit auto home and it just started trying to spin the threaded spindle all the way to the botttomnand it kept trying to send it further down
When it came to 3d printers from china you inspect every little detail and complain about it and how they are bad engineers and so on, so "coruped" gcode file and paper clips is ridiculous. Compare it with brand name from EU/US and then tell us how bad it is :)
Cheapest US made 3D printer I found after a very quick Google around was the Makerbot Replicator Mini+ at $1300 ! It may be jolly good but it's nearly 3 times the CR10's $450 price and the print capacity is is 4x5x5 = 100 cubic inches for the Mini+, compared to 12x12x15.75 = 2268 cubic inches for the CR10. Then there's the Prusa I3 MK2S from the Czech Republic which, @ $599 with it's 9,84 x 8,3 x 8 = 653.676 cubic inches. I took all the prices and capacities from the maker's own websites or official online stores. If there's a reprap style US printer, please let me know. :¬)
When you say “you could get a better 3D printer for a few more bucks”, which other printers are you speaking about? And how much more money are we talking about. I am in the market for a printer and was planning on the cr-10. Now if there’s a better one for a bit more cash I’d like to hear about it. Thanks and great video
Lulzbot printers come with some great features that make printing easier, if you don't mind 3mm filament. Or modifying it. GMax is even bigger and more reliable, but much more expensive.
I've only seen one video of someone criticizing this printer. There is no chance that this printer is perfect. If all of these cr10 reviews have discount codes wouldn't that mean they're sponsored? I'd like to hear some actual issues if I'm going to spend the money on one.
I just bought the CR-10S. I bought it for its big print area and low cost. Unfortunately it is reviews like this one that made me decide to get it. The reviews make it sound like it, with very little assembly, was ready to go. My glass plate was warped, the aluminum plate beneath was not flat, the bearings all needed adjusting, one bearing has a chunk out of it, it vibrates at fast speeds, the nozzle wouldn't stay at a consistent temperature. After about 2 hours of assembly and 16 hours of trouble shooting, lots of reading and searching the internet for solutions and three failed prints, I gave the supplier a call. Emailed him with my complaints list, sounded like he was going to send my email on to China and parts would be coming including a new mother board, plates and bearings but haven't heard back for a couple of days. So I disassembled the control box, tightened loose screws, disassembled the hot end and put it back together. The temperate sensor screw was really loose. I put it all back together, used masking tape between the aluminum plate and the glass to level out the middle, really slowed it down and tried 3D Benchy and low and behold it worked. The print didn't fall apart. But the next print was back to temperatures all over the place. My CR-10S is a new 2018 v2.1 board but still lots of issues. It makes me wonder if they send free printers to guys with UA-cam channels that have been through an extra good set of trouble shooting techs before sending out. Where my machine was a regular stock. Your expierences was very different from mine. It does not work out of the box.
Create screw filler for screw holes that are stripped/drilled larger than it should be... Use laser to create a 3d profile of the stipped screw hole, and 3d print a filler that would allow screw to be fixed there... Applies for wood and masonry
I've been printing for almost a year and I've only just found your channel, so I'm late to the party but at least I've plenty of content to catch up on😀
I look forward to reading your comments on all my videos you see and to see what you think. With this whole COPPA thing I had to go though my old videos, so I may be a bit nostalgic.
Just be happy you didn't find that g code problem on a 12 x6 ft home built cnc like I have what happens when your cnc desides to stab a 3/8 end mill into 2 inches of high quality hardwood ply then starts to cut the part ? Lots of smoke and broken parts thankfully I have the oh god oh god we are all gonna die button right their well done video thats another Check in the creality list I'm leaning toward the c10s
But im new at this i just wanted something to print. But i got it kinda slow but the pla in the box 205 nozzle and 60 on the bed seams to work ok.. got a bunch from hobby king coming thur.. Im running the white stuff at 50mm/s does this sound right? Im using cura, did the baby groot took 5 hr's. IM NOT USE TO THAT BEING A CNC GUY.
I do agree the gcode thing is stupid but its talked about in a lot of places so I'd hope that someone buying a cr-10 would do a little bit of research and come across the info somewhere. I know I did before I got mine.
Thanks for hitting me with reality about the creality, so it was 1 example file which was the problem. Well good thing i know the reality about it now haha. Nice video man but you got the title a little bit hyped up i must say.
I don't like the single screw version it's just going to be a huge problem down the road and will eventually droop and wear out tires prematurely. The Y axis is also a poor design and would have been much better with 2 V-slot rails spread apart a minimum of 2/3rd the width of the table. Some sort of additional back bracing on the Z axis would probably be a good idea. V-slot is fairly cheap so those two upgrades really wouldn't cost much and would be worth the extra investment I haven't really checked around user forums but I suspect the PCB heater that size is going to be lacking for ABS if it is only fed with 12V and will have warping problems at the edges of the build plate although at lower temps for PLA it will probably be OK. I'd probably pitch the hot end and get a real E3D V6. I learned my lesson about cheap Chinese knockoffs a couple of years ago while I've never had a problem with either of my E3Ds and just upgraded the older one to the new heater block/cartridge thermistor. The other thing I worry about in these cheaper units is the longevity of the power supply but they are still too new to make a judgement on that. Still a pretty good deal and once you go V-slot you'll never want to go back to rods and linear bearings ..... Much more quiet and zero slop and my 2 year old Makerfarm Pegasus 10 has been flawless and essentially trouble-free after hundreds of hours of print time . Spending a hundred bucks or so to fix the minor limitations I mentioned would be a good investment and you'd have a machine that will last for years and keep up with the best of them and still be very cost effective. Creality kind of irks me because they won't embrace Open Source when there is nothing proprietary with the electronics or firmware and it's basically a ripoff of an Open Builds design over 2 years old. If you are going to use Open Source electronics, firmware and design then you should give something back like Lulzbot and Prusa have ..... It's the least they could do IMO
I think the 10S version with two steppers would be better but if a guy already has a single screw version that would be a good solution and upgrade. If this had been available a couple of years ago when I decided I really wanted a V-slot printer I probably would have jumped all over it with plans to improve it later. Don't get me wrong, it's still the best printer at that price point but I'm also an EE by profession so I tend to nit pick as well as look at what I think will be a problem a year down the road as far as longevity and reliability which is why picked the parts of this printer I think will be a problem down the road and will degrade the print quality. For instance I think people will start seeing problem with the Y and Z axises getting sloppy and wobbly over time which could affect print quality but these are easily fixable problems. I't also been my experience that 10" PCB heater is about as big as you can reliably go with only 12V. This may be 24V already but the problem is they don't tell you anything about the power supply or control board that I could find. If you go to Lulzbot or Prusa every aspect of their printers are spec'ed out and you know exactly what you are getting and exactly what to expect before you make your purchase. The level of tech support is also superior by an order of magnitude and that's especially important for a beginner that doesn't have an electronics or CNC machine background.
Its better to adjust the camera to capture from front..... Its too dizzy to watch the build plate moving back and forth from top... Core XY type of 3d printer timelapse is a better view to see the print building up without the plate moving around.
Great video Joe. Corrupt files are sent out not only by Creality but also by Tevo and others. On top of that, most of the SD cards (if not all) are fake!!! Yes, they tell you its an 8GB but in reality, you would be lucky if you get a 2GB one!!! Check it out, you'll see! Audio is definitely better, but for some reason, frame rate has gone done a bit. Thumbs up my friend, absolutely love your videos!
Took me 2 weekends to build my delta kit.... Someone reviewing the same kit did it in 2 hours. People who are experienced will do it quicker. People who are fussier will be slower.
Wholly Mindless Thank you! Yes, it was. And it wasn't better when I realized what the problem actually was because then I was mad that I was worried for nothing.
The only thing I don’t like about any of their printers I’ve use the Ender 3 CR-10 and Ender 5 is there slicer Program it does a horrible job compared to other free slicer programs
I hope you were joking about the being angry about the g-code issue. they probably copy 10000 copies of that sd card a day. they would never be able t catch it until it was reported by a customer
Writeup is live now. Find out more on the blog: joes3dworkbench.blogspot.com/2017/11/the-problem-with-cr10-video.html
please try the Anycubic i3 Mega! :D
"The Problem with the CR-10"... Proceeds to praise just about every aspect of the printer
Yeah. My attempt at comedy.
Sounds like clickbait
your wife is click bait
@@dimkinlv - definitely clickbait. It suckered me. Some people do this to help themselves instead of to help the community. Just wasted 12 minutes of my life.
I just got my CR10 S5 and it seems to be broken. I certainly didn't have the luxury of putting it together & printing in 2 hours. Closer to 2 days and still not printing (unless printing off the back of the bed counts). After 2 days of troubleshooting/youtubing/web searching, I've come to the conclusion that it's defective and it's a fairly common occurrence among the CR10's. Wish I had been one of the lucky few who received a CR10 that actually prints out of the box.
This is pure clickbait in my opinion. You are certainly aware that a lot of people take you seriously and thought you had a serious complaint about the printer. The video doesn't serve any purpose other than advertising your Gearbest links.
It's admittedly a little click-baity. It's difficult to approach a review of something everyone else has already done. Still, I'm genuine about the panic this induced and I hope it was amusing.
no, im sorry. it was actually quite annoying :/
Admittedly I was amused, sort of, but cringed because I was concerned about comments like this...LOL You took both sides of an ionized community (CR-10 haters and lovers) and then via title or content, potentially upset the more delicate and sensitive members of both the communities. I do find it amusing, but more in pejorative way than a positive.
3D Printing Professor Ah... screw GearBest. Seriously.
I expected some criticism about not having dual z, sd slot that is finicky, control box fans running constantly or the lack of strain relief on the heated bed.
Everything you mentioned isn't a huge deal to me
How long did it take to print the big dino? Simplify3D keeps telling me 52 hours to print a medium vase. How do you get your first layers to stick?
In my experience the biggest issue people have with big prints is user error. Its pretty rare i see an issue the printer caused. It usually boils down to improper infill level, bad first layer or unclean bed creating adhesion loss, or filament inaccuracy. If you make sure your slicing it right and preveiwing the print to watch for issues like air printing an area that needs more infill, knowing your filament quality, etc, then big prints can be a very forgiving venture.
I guess you're one of the few lucky ones that didn't get a warped heated bed and glass build plate. I "fixed" mine with some pieces of tin foil under the mirrored glass tile that I used to replace the glass that came with the machine.
10/10 puns and humor. You sound like a cool dad xD
I love my Creality CR-10s, it's my first 3D printer and I'm making professional quality 3D prints after only having it a months or so and just learning about tweaking the settings and getting it to perform at its best.
It's a great printer at a great price and with so many options and settings, it's better than some printers twice the price I paid for mine, the build volume is huge, which is great.
I only have one little itty-bitty gripe, Cura LIES, when it says it'll take 5 hours to complete a print, it really means 7, I had a print that was supposed to take just over 11 hours and it took 20 hours, it could be because of my layer height, but I just wish Cura would give a realistic build-time, not just pick some arbitrary number out of the air and say, "yeah, it'll take x hours".
That's not the printers fault though and after some practise, the printer is performing admirably, the little bulldog clips that hold the glass on the heated bed only bother me then they snag on my clothes or something and go pinging off, otherwise I have no problem with them.
I'm really pleased I got this as my first step into the world of 3D printing, now friends and family are fascinated and constantly asking me to make little things for them or design something in Blender for them!
I learn something new every day and enjoy using my CR-10s a lot as I'm constantly learning something new.
And yes, it does print in the softer materials like TPU as well as wood and copper.
"I have no idea what I'm going to do with it" - said no 3d printer owner ever
Did you make any mods for the control box and extruder fans? It is so quiet. Nice video.
I bought one, a CR-10S, and have never done any of this stuff before and it was beginner easy.
Ok Professor, first I love about 90% of what you do, but I would never make a video called "The problem with the CR10". You may want to change your title. Second, just about EVERY CR-10 forum says right up front, the GCODE is bad. You scared me with the title and was almost enough to thumbs down. Please change the title before the thumbs down come before they watch the whole video. I have a CR-10 I bought after my IIIP died and I love it. Glad you got one too. I have made some incredible stuff on this machine.
You're right, I did mess up the title. Added the dash now. Thanks.
LOL, Just don't want to see a bunch of thumbs down for the title. Its a great video and a great printer. Just some friendly advice about the title. Also another great tie!
Doag, I was not triggered, just giving some advice to prevent a bunch of other people giving a thumbs down just based on the title. I love the Professor and what he does. My name is on his wall. I also think he is grown up enough to receive some constructive criticism and I am grown up enough to give it. I thumbs upped this video and I think the professor is great but to quote him, I am not so enamored with him that I am not willing to tell him that the title may cause some folks to thumbs down on what is otherwise a great video. So lets scale back the drama Doag and not use words and phrases like "Grow Up" and "Triggered" and not be snowflakes when someone has an opinion that is contrary to yours. Maybe we could have a grown up conversation with out inflammatory comments.
I might have gotten a little carried away, looking for a different angle. But even UA-cam's demonitization flagged this video, which is less of a red flag than it should be with so many false positives, but still. I apologize for the stress.
Jason Baker thumbs make no difference. If someone thumbs down one of my vids out of the 500+ i have. Oh well. Haters gonna hate. I have 3 people that thumb down my videos regardless of the content or quality. Doesnt effect anything or chance anyone else will watch the content. Doesnt effect the monetization. Doesnt effect my subscriber count. Its a veiw count +1, regardless which is all that truely counts in the world of youtube.
Thank you for the shout out! Glad I could be of assistance.
Everyone's ears are grateful you could be of assistance.
ive done some huge prints on the cr-10, and all my large print failures were caused by my bad build plate adhesion technique.
can you do a video about what you are using your raspberry for and how you did it?
Octoprint. Video coming soon, but a google search for that should get you started.
I clicked on both of your Gearbest links and can't figure out why one is $508 and the other is $379. What's the difference between the two? Is it only the color?
Marcus Adams i think the blue one is the older one and the orange one os the newer improved one. Not sure, but thats what i heard. And it may be the other way around
It's because one is the cr10 and the other is the cr10 s. The color means nothing
The more expensive version has dual motors on the z axis and a filament detector. Be very careful of GearBest. I tried dealing with them and had problems. After a little bit of research, tons of people had problems with them. I ended up going to Amazon, paying a bit more and actually getting my product
Hi, how long did it t
lol, got my cr-10. Same brocken g-code. How is this possible that they still send out printers with this file? This problem is already so old.
UNACCEPTABLLLLLLLLE!
Is that why they only had the stl files and no Gcode on the sd card when I bought the CR-X?
Maybe.
Would you say this is one of the best starter 3d printer
Jared Say I would. Best for money, size etc. the prints are amazing and you can use tons of materials including the ninja flax by printing a simple attachment for the extruder. I have been blown away by the printer. Check out the cr10 on multiple channels. I have found it to be the most popular and widely used printer. Let’s face it, who has thousands to blow on a printer that prints 3 inch tall models at max. This prints big. Yes takes hours if you go max size and want to keep quality but it is worth it. Also you can adjust speed, fill, and nozzle ends to speed up printing. Go in the search engine and check it out. Also all creality printers are upgradable and for a low cost too. This also can be altered later into your own build printer. Anyhoo, just UA-cam it:)
Just got my CR-10 and first it would not read the SD card. Got that fixed but now the extrusion servo runs the wrong way and feeds the filament back out fast when it starts to print. Connector cannot just simply be reversed so waiting on a fix. I have seen other post on this problem but never an answer given.
When I transferred my gcode from to a folder on my desktop, and then transfered that file to my sd card there was an error in the gcode. Long story short it skipped a few layers on the x axis. When I printed the same file but exported directly from cura to my sd card it didn’t happen. Could have been filament issues as well. But it was weird
Just received my c-10S from Amazon on friday (sunday now) haven’t had time to assemble it yet, to many house chores right now. But good to know that the included g-code demo files are corrupted. I did identify at thingyverse some fixes for the c-10, those will be first printed items.
This is a nice video. Could you share a link to the snake clips for the glass plate? I would like similar ones for my own printer.
What about the “S” version?
What about printing abs ?
Hi what is the song when you print the dino fastforward ? please
Pamgaea by Kevin Macleod, available on Incompetech.com
I dont think software end stops are enabled on the cr10 either as when I printed the cat thats on the SD card about halfway through the print it started smacking the y axis carriage into the MAX end of the Y axis... needless to say I ended up with a headless cat
hey does anyone know the stl file or link to the weird purple dinosaur thing lol I want to print it too. btw cool video.
That is a model I created myself. It's a part of the #lowpolydino fundraiser that I'm still working on, but will be delivered soon. You can get in now and get it as well has 39 other models (more with variations) right now, and receive them as soon as they drop. www.3dpprofessor.com/2018/07/pre-post-kickstarter-pricing-on.html
3D Printing Professor hey thanks for writing back i am glad I can print it my self btw I am 14 and a girl I love 3d printers and I am getting a cr 10 it is almost shipped from amazon. Lol thanks again
3D Printing Professor and can I get just one model or I have to buy the stl pack and how long did it take for the mini one
Hey, that's great! I look forward to what you'll be making.
Joseph Larson ok this is my other channel my robot channel LutionsForever is me pls check the cr 10 video here. Coming soon
Hey 3D Printing Professor, thanks for your thoughts on this - subbed. Just a question about the RPi case and touch screen. Do you have links to those? Cheers, JAYTEE
For the Raspberry Pi I used this case, modified, of course, with my own logo: www.youmagine.com/designs/raspberry-pi-case-model-b-2-3
The touchscreen is the Adafruit 4.5" TFT touchscreen, which now that I've had a bit of time to experiment don't recommend. I'm doing some experiments with a 7" HDMI touch screen and if all goes well I'll be making a video about setting it up.
The rest is a super custom rig to hold a webcam you can't even buy any more to the extrusion frame. It literally includes two types of glue. I won't be releasing this one, but when I finish my next experiments I will be releasing it.
Great, thanks for the reply. I'm looking forward to the 7" touch video. Cheers, JAYTEE
Lost credibility with me when you called the binder clips "alligator clips"
I just ordered the cr10s from a gearbest flash sale....looking forward to seeing what I can do with it. I’m actually relieved that the title was clickbaity and no big issues.
seen flexfilament used , you need to adapt the feedsystem a little (print a part and add a small piece of plastic hose )
What do you use to get your base layer to stick, and then to release? Mine just drags a bunch of hairs around.
Hairspray. Use only in a well ventilated area. ua-cam.com/video/wzCcTCXGiDU/v-deo.html
3D Printing Professor Eureka, I’ve found it!Use the tape Creality sent with it. Now printing a vase, and it’s going great.
Is it worth waiting on the CR-10S the version that they used the user input on and made it better?
I can't say for sure, but I assume yes, because... newer is always better.
The 2 MP select mini v2’s in the background... lol I have one and it broke its own extruder after a year and a half. So I got a da Vinci 1.0 pro and it ripped out its own how end wires within the first week I had it so I returned it for a refund... that’s why I’m now looking at a CR-10...
so is that offer still good for 322$ ??? btw how much is delivery ??? for vancouver canada
I am very new to printing. I have a m3d pro that sucks. Should I get the cr-10s or will the cr-10 be fine?
The CR10S has 3 major innovations. Print loss recovery, filament out detection, and an accessible bootloader (I haven't tested this last one yet). The print loss recovery is accomplished by constantly writing to the SD card, so it's recommended to turn that off at you earliest convenience by updating the firmware (again, I haven't done this yet). So it's a question of whether the price is worth filament out detection and being able to upgrade it easier.
The guy is selling this free review printer on eBay at 09:28. Make your own mind up about whether that invalidates his opinion on the machine.
Hello, I have a Creality CR-10S Printer that I can't get to print. The z Axis goes up and down when homing but won't When Printing. It just stays on the first layer. Is this a printer problem or am i doing something wrong in Cura ?
That sounds like a Cura problem, but I don't know what it would be. Does any gcode work at all?
Rather than the review of the CR-10, I'm more interested in the Raspberry Pi touchscreen interface. I've just seen people using OctoPi or dealing with the normal interface. Would the RPi one work on other printers?
gojyo Yes, Octoprint works on a lot of printers, but setup, especially with a touch screen, is tricky. Once it's set up, though, it's sooooo nice. Much better than Marlin.
A lot of hype to tell us not to use the sample g-code... I enjoy the videos! Looking forward to more in the future.
Personally, I am looking into getting a high precision printer for printing abstracts and marketable models. I don’t know at what price does buying an sla/dlp beat an fdm, market evolves faster than I can track it and I was curious if you had any thoughts, budgeting myself around 1200 and I don’t need a massive volume
does petg work?
I find it hard to print petg with. Buy a silicone cover for the printhead cause that shit will ruin your hotend.
Got my new cr-10 and stupidly ran the nozzle into the build plate breaking it. Bought the one from microswiss as a replacement and the prints are absolutely insane.
do you have a link to the STL for the glass clip? thats the first one i have seen that looks like it will work well.
Here's the original that still works on the X-axis. The beefed up one I use on my Y-Axis I haven't taken a picture of and posted yet. www.thingiverse.com/thing:2401764
that doesnt work on both x and y?
It does, but I broke it when a print went bad. So I made one that's reenforced, but now it's too big to go around the X-Axis, so I only use it for the Y.
oh ok cool. i will try it, and eagerly await your beefed up revision. good video, even with the click baity title. personally, i would have liked to have seen them use a silicone heater, since the bed is so large and exposed. longer wiring would be nice. i really think they are on to something with this hot end design. its so simplistic, and compact, i think there is a lot that can be done with it. i am working on a dual extruder set up, stacking these stock hot ends.
I had lost all hope on prebuilt 3d printer but this one look very nice for the price...
have a link for the snake clip?
Later on in the new year, this is likely to be the one I consider buying as my second machine.
Later on in the new year I may be reviewing it's successor.
I like the sound of that, 'cos it means that the current one is likely to get cheaper! :¬P
Oh, and just as a by the way, we call them bulldog clips in the U of K. Alligator clips are the ones for electrical malarkey.
I didn't really understand what was the problem with the CR-10?
If you read the other replies you'll see there was discussion of the Title being clickbait. I agree the title was misleading, but that's fine, he said what he didn't like. It wasn't clickbait since he COVERED his complaints, they were just a few, which serves the point that the machines is ACTUALLY exceptional for this price point. Got you to watch, yes? Nothing wrong with promoting your channel, and it was an excellent video.
does anyone know what that purple print is, it looks interesting
yep, we definately don't need bigger build volumes till speed at least doubles...
I have tried different prints and they all don't work.
On the CR10? Have you sliced your own yet?
Can you post a link to your raspberry pi mount?
It was a custom job to cobble together the hardware that I had on hand and it's still kinda WIP. Not read for prime time. As it standardizes with future projects I'll work on a release.
I ordered the cr10 and the first 2 prints I did off of was awesome then from that point on it was a disaster I tried all the settings in cura and the creality slicers then it wouldn't print at all it was moving around like it was printing but not putting anything down I bought simplified 3d and leveled the bed and it began printing again. Then it would be half way through a print and would be printing in mid air to the side making tumbleweed. I sold it to a coworker and he is having trouble with it too. I bought the peopoly phenom the large scale resin printer and it runs just perfect. I like watching everyone who can get their cr10s running wish I could have been in the crowd I did so many up grades to the cr10 I rebuilt it with no success. Good luck with your cr10 guess I got the bad one out of a thousand.
How good/detail can this printer print a detailed zbrush sculpture?
I got very lucky. My cr -10 works perfect and the SD card came perfect too. It’s been giving out amazing prints. I would totally recommend the printer. If someone bids on it and buys it I can promise you, you won’t be sorry. I loved it so much I have the creality Ender 5 plus coming tomorrow. I have printed big and the quality stays amazing. I got it Christmas Day and I have been running it 24/7. When you get something new you want to run it for hours. If something is going to go wrong with it you want to catch it in the first 30 days. So far I have had nothing but luck. Knock on wood:)
what about the sound of this printer ?
I just got a cr10 and I had a weird issue when I hit auto home and it just started trying to spin the threaded spindle all the way to the botttomnand it kept trying to send it further down
Sounds like your limit switch isn't engaging.
@@3dpprofessor where is the limit switch and how do I get it to engage
So the biggest issue is a bad sample file? Ok thx I can buy it now. Wish there was a better coupon though.
Is the stuff on the SD card all Microsoft PC, not Mac? The CP01’s engraving function is all PC, so Mac users are left inert. BTW, it’s a micro-sd now.
I believe it is windows versions of the software, but slicers for mac do exist, I know.
When it came to 3d printers from china you inspect every little detail and complain about it and how they are bad engineers and so on, so "coruped" gcode file and paper clips is ridiculous. Compare it with brand name from EU/US and then tell us how bad it is :)
Cheapest US made 3D printer I found after a very quick Google around was the Makerbot Replicator Mini+ at $1300 ! It may be jolly good but it's nearly 3 times the CR10's $450 price and the print capacity is is 4x5x5 = 100 cubic inches for the Mini+, compared to 12x12x15.75 = 2268 cubic inches for the CR10.
Then there's the Prusa I3 MK2S from the Czech Republic which, @ $599 with it's 9,84 x 8,3 x 8 = 653.676 cubic inches.
I took all the prices and capacities from the maker's own websites or official online stores. If there's a reprap style US printer, please let me know. :¬)
When you say “you could get a better 3D printer for a few more bucks”, which other printers are you speaking about? And how much more money are we talking about. I am in the market for a printer and was planning on the cr-10. Now if there’s a better one for a bit more cash I’d like to hear about it. Thanks and great video
Lulzbot printers come with some great features that make printing easier, if you don't mind 3mm filament. Or modifying it. GMax is even bigger and more reliable, but much more expensive.
Now we have 2 things in common. I ordered a CR-10 and I own an ASUS ROG laptop very similiar to the one you are using. Good vid
Nice dad joke, everyones dad!
Which CR-10 is this?
The CR-10. The original. The first. Not sold any more.
I've only seen one video of someone criticizing this printer. There is no chance that this printer is perfect. If all of these cr10 reviews have discount codes wouldn't that mean they're sponsored? I'd like to hear some actual issues if I'm going to spend the money on one.
Crosswalk honestly, if I had something bad to say, I'd say it. But especially "for the price" this is an amazing printer.
Crosswalk, I bought the cr-10s. It's easy to assemble and the print quality is superb. Honestly, it's a great printer.
I just bought the CR-10S. I bought it for its big print area and low cost. Unfortunately it is reviews like this one that made me decide to get it. The reviews make it sound like it, with very little assembly, was ready to go. My glass plate was warped, the aluminum plate beneath was not flat, the bearings all needed adjusting, one bearing has a chunk out of it, it vibrates at fast speeds, the nozzle wouldn't stay at a consistent temperature. After about 2 hours of assembly and 16 hours of trouble shooting, lots of reading and searching the internet for solutions and three failed prints, I gave the supplier a call. Emailed him with my complaints list, sounded like he was going to send my email on to China and parts would be coming including a new mother board, plates and bearings but haven't heard back for a couple of days. So I disassembled the control box, tightened loose screws, disassembled the hot end and put it back together. The temperate sensor screw was really loose. I put it all back together, used masking tape between the aluminum plate and the glass to level out the middle, really slowed it down and tried 3D Benchy and low and behold it worked. The print didn't fall apart. But the next print was back to temperatures all over the place. My CR-10S is a new 2018 v2.1 board but still lots of issues. It makes me wonder if they send free printers to guys with UA-cam channels that have been through an extra good set of trouble shooting techs before sending out. Where my machine was a regular stock. Your expierences was very different from mine. It does not work out of the box.
Nice Job,You make great videos and I love Creality CR10.My second printer is on its way and its another CR10...
Love your stuff
This video title nearly made me not buy the CR10. Thank God my lasy ass was bored enough to watch the entirety of this video
I love your energy
I think the real problem is your video quality.
(Edit) great info btw I learned a lot before buying a cr 10
Create screw filler for screw holes that are stripped/drilled larger than it should be... Use laser to create a 3d profile of the stipped screw hole, and 3d print a filler that would allow screw to be fixed there... Applies for wood and masonry
I LOVE this review. I hope this printer makes ME a better person!
I've been printing for almost a year and I've only just found your channel, so I'm late to the party but at least I've plenty of content to catch up on😀
I look forward to reading your comments on all my videos you see and to see what you think.
With this whole COPPA thing I had to go though my old videos, so I may be a bit nostalgic.
I am not a native English speaker, and understood everything you said. No problem with the volume nor anything else... :-)
Just be happy you didn't find that g code problem on a 12 x6 ft home built cnc like I have
what happens when your cnc desides to stab a 3/8 end mill into 2 inches of high quality hardwood ply then starts to cut the part ? Lots of smoke and broken parts thankfully I have the oh god oh god we are all gonna die button right their
well done video thats another Check in the creality list I'm leaning toward the c10s
#rclifeon is way better then this channel
I do not disagree.
CW movie clips you are an asshole...
Your code dropped the price down to $339. I was going to wait until tax return to buy one. At that price, i can't let it go. My bank account hates you
I got no sample files on my card..none
Lucky.
But im new at this i just wanted something to print. But i got it kinda slow but the pla in the box 205 nozzle and 60 on the bed seams to work ok.. got a bunch from hobby king coming thur.. Im running the white stuff at 50mm/s does this sound right? Im using cura, did the baby groot took 5 hr's. IM NOT USE TO THAT BEING A CNC GUY.
File for Low Poly Dino?
The low poly dino set is currently only available to Patreon backers, but will be available soon on Kickstarter.
My favourite cr-10 review yet! Super honest yet positive. Great job, one more subscription to you!
Sample Gcodes almost never work for me
The problem with 3D printing professor? Everything.
I do agree the gcode thing is stupid but its talked about in a lot of places so I'd hope that someone buying a cr-10 would do a little bit of research and come across the info somewhere. I know I did before I got mine.
x9x9x9x9x9 I somehow missed it, and I've been able to help others who have, to. Hopefully this video will help someone else.
good review, I wish you'd say the phrase "can't be mad about that", just a little more sparingly. lol
Thanks for hitting me with reality about the creality, so it was 1 example file which was the problem. Well good thing i know the reality about it now haha. Nice video man but you got the title a little bit hyped up i must say.
I don't like the single screw version it's just going to be a huge problem down the road and will eventually droop and wear out tires prematurely. The Y axis is also a poor design and would have been much better with 2 V-slot rails spread apart a minimum of 2/3rd the width of the table. Some sort of additional back bracing on the Z axis would probably be a good idea. V-slot is fairly cheap so those two upgrades really wouldn't cost much and would be worth the extra investment I haven't really checked around user forums but I suspect the PCB heater that size is going to be lacking for ABS if it is only fed with 12V and will have warping problems at the edges of the build plate although at lower temps for PLA it will probably be OK. I'd probably pitch the hot end and get a real E3D V6. I learned my lesson about cheap Chinese knockoffs a couple of years ago while I've never had a problem with either of my E3Ds and just upgraded the older one to the new heater block/cartridge thermistor. The other thing I worry about in these cheaper units is the longevity of the power supply but they are still too new to make a judgement on that.
Still a pretty good deal and once you go V-slot you'll never want to go back to rods and linear bearings ..... Much more quiet and zero slop and my 2 year old Makerfarm Pegasus 10 has been flawless and essentially trouble-free after hundreds of hours of print time . Spending a hundred bucks or so to fix the minor limitations I mentioned would be a good investment and you'd have a machine that will last for years and keep up with the best of them and still be very cost effective.
Creality kind of irks me because they won't embrace Open Source when there is nothing proprietary with the electronics or firmware and it's basically a ripoff of an Open Builds design over 2 years old. If you are going to use Open Source electronics, firmware and design then you should give something back like Lulzbot and Prusa have ..... It's the least they could do IMO
You mean something like this? ua-cam.com/video/-ASBhJiU8NI/v-deo.html
I think the 10S version with two steppers would be better but if a guy already has a single screw version that would be a good solution and upgrade. If this had been available a couple of years ago when I decided I really wanted a V-slot printer I probably would have jumped all over it with plans to improve it later. Don't get me wrong, it's still the best printer at that price point but I'm also an EE by profession so I tend to nit pick as well as look at what I think will be a problem a year down the road as far as longevity and reliability which is why picked the parts of this printer I think will be a problem down the road and will degrade the print quality. For instance I think people will start seeing problem with the Y and Z axises getting sloppy and wobbly over time which could affect print quality but these are easily fixable problems. I't also been my experience that 10" PCB heater is about as big as you can reliably go with only 12V. This may be 24V already but the problem is they don't tell you anything about the power supply or control board that I could find. If you go to Lulzbot or Prusa every aspect of their printers are spec'ed out and you know exactly what you are getting and exactly what to expect before you make your purchase. The level of tech support is also superior by an order of magnitude and that's especially important for a beginner that doesn't have an electronics or CNC machine background.
Its better to adjust the camera to capture from front..... Its too dizzy to watch the build plate moving back and forth from top...
Core XY type of 3d printer timelapse is a better view to see the print building up without the plate moving around.
Jasphere Rindou True. However this angle is better for checking in on prints while the are going.
Great video Joe. Corrupt files are sent out not only by Creality but also by Tevo and others. On top of that, most of the SD cards (if not all) are fake!!! Yes, they tell you its an 8GB but in reality, you would be lucky if you get a 2GB one!!!
Check it out, you'll see!
Audio is definitely better, but for some reason, frame rate has gone done a bit.
Thumbs up my friend, absolutely love your videos!
The more CR-10 videos I watch the more I regret buying a Tevo Tarantula. :V
Put some Kapton tape on the jaws of the metal clips, viola!
Well done. Ignore the clickbait yellers and thumbs downers. I see iit as great marketing. Never saw your channel before but I subbed right away.
it took me just 30 min to assemble it
HdmX11 that's what I have heard. He said 2 hours I was like.....really? Lol
Took me 2 weekends to build my delta kit.... Someone reviewing the same kit did it in 2 hours.
People who are experienced will do it quicker. People who are fussier will be slower.
Great information! The presenter is a bit long winded and somewhat pedantic. Nice that the experience made him a better person...
That would have been scary.
Wholly Mindless Thank you! Yes, it was. And it wasn't better when I realized what the problem actually was because then I was mad that I was worried for nothing.
The only thing I don’t like about any of their printers I’ve use the Ender 3 CR-10 and Ender 5 is there slicer Program it does a horrible job compared to other free slicer programs
Just use the latest version of cura or Prusa slicer.
I hope you were joking about the being angry about the g-code issue.
they probably copy 10000 copies of that sd card a day. they would never be able t catch it until it was reported by a customer
Yup. It was a joke.
Just google "Decapicat" :D
This is not the printers fault