Here's Why You NEVER INSTALL LEDs IN YOUR CAR OR TRUCK!!
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- Опубліковано 23 лип 2024
- Here's Why You NEVER INSTALL LEDs IN YOUR CAR OR TRUCK!!
Here's The Best LEDs I've Found
LED's Major Problem
The biggest problem I've found with these 'cheap' LEDs is heat. Some of them do not have any sort of heat solution and eventually fail.
For example, Sylvania makes a 3157 LED (found here: amzn.to/2EILtUf **Amazon Associate Link**) that does seem to have heat issues in mind.
Most of these 'no-name' LEDs I've found are monetarily cheap, which is desirable, but that does come at a cost of possible shorter life span. And, if the bulbs die 2 or 3 times faster than that of a more expensive name brand, is it really cheaper?
** I am an Amazon associate. I make a commission based on sales through my Amazon associate links.**
Smaller LEDs: amzn.to/2Zb7IM2
Larger LEDs: amzn.to/2Q8qi3k
www.1roadgarage.com
**This channel is for entertainment purposes only! Do not do what I do. Do not take my advice. I am not a professional. The methods I use may be completely wrong and/or dangerous. Please seek professional help with anything and everything and do your own due diligence (research). Working on cars is extremely dangerous. I am not responsible for any loss of life or limb or property. DO YOUR OWN RESEARCH. THIS CHANNEL IS FOR ENTERTAINMENT PURPOSES ONLY!**
FTC Disclaimer: I am an Amazon associate. As such, I earn a percentage of sales made through Amazon associate links found in the description of my videos and on my website and other places. - Авто та транспорт
Okay so what the title should read is "dont cheap out on lights"
Your title is sensationalized and makes it seem like LED bulbs are not worth it whatsoever. Way to beg for clicks.
Your right, it is a bad and inaccurate title.
Agreed. It's stupid all together because every auto manufacture these days is using LEDs.
He likes himself and he wants to be somebody so he's playing the hype game on a subject that he feels gives him an important relevance to life.
Carry on carry on
He's a lil' beggar!lol
I can't stand bullshit titles
@@diamondheat9 If you can’t stand it, there is a solution! Click on the “...” menu for the video, then “Report” then “Spam or misleading” then “Choose one” and select “Misleading text” and follow the instructions. A similar option is available for misleading thumbnails and other junk people pull.
That is not a halogen bulb. That is an incandescent.
For anyone wondering, halogen is a better incandescent bulb. There is a glass bubble of a halogen gas around the filament which allows the filament to get hotter using the same power and usually lasts longer too.
And you would never touch it with your fingers ....
@@bones007able you would never touch the inner bulb with anything that might transfer grease. Halogen headlights are just the inner bulb, or other quartz halogens that used to be used for high power floodlights. The somewhat more common (now) is a screw in halogen e26 with two separate bulbs layered. No problem touching the outer with bare hands.
But that dome light bulb is just your run of the mill standard incandescent bulb. Not halogen filled. If it were a halogen bulb it would melt the translucent plastic cover.
I don’t understand why so many people do not know the difference between halogen and incandescent...you cannot touch halogens, the oil from your skin reacts with the glass and it will either burn out prematurely or burn out or possibly explode the first time it gets hot. The only bulbs in a car that may be halogen is in the headlights and/or fog lights, (and possibly DRLs). All the other bulbs that have a filament in your car are incandescent. (Period).
Another great use for the 12V LED bulbs is in RV's and Camper Trailers. Changing out the old incandescent bulbs to LED's really cuts down on the power drain from the batteries while providing much better light.
Also heat. In the summer the interior lights put out a lot of unwanted heat and makes cooling the camper a lot harder in hotter climates.
Absolutely
Man, As an electronics engineer, I can tell that not only the failure is related to heat sinks, but also they need high voltage spike protection. A car is a noisy environment, specially from the ignition coils, great LED Build design involves voltage clamping. Modern cars which have LEDs considered in their design incorporate those voltage clamps, but older cars (30 year old cars) don't.
what kills most aftermarket LEDs are voltage spikes from the ignition coils, not the heat dissipation.
My car came with LED tail lights and DRLs/sidelights and rear LED fog light as standard, my upgrade to LED front fog lights, LED number plate bulbs, reverse light and LED Brake lights and LED side and rear indicators and headlights have all been fine. The only halogen bulbs left on my car are the front indicators as upgrading them caused hyperflash.
You just need to add load resistors to fix the hyper flash. They are easy to find.
What's the solution 4: that problem?
I was asking the guy who mentioned the problem with heat sink/ ignition coils.
as a certified clown i can tell you your juggling is substandard
The difference between a halogen bulb and an incandescent bulb, in case anyone is wondering, has to do with the tungsten filament vaporizing and depositing a metallic film on the inside of the bulb, turning the glass envelope into a mirror that traps light inside. Halogens contain a gas that combines with the vaporized tungsten, and continuously redeposits it back on the hot filament, keeping the glass nice and clear.
Good point. I believe halogen also allows the filament to be heated to a higher temperature without premature failure or causing those deposits on the bulb glass, thereby allowing it to glow hotter and brighter.
@Land and Lore Photograph Off Road Adventures And so is a tulip bulb if you set it on fire, but still, all three are distinct if you understand their composition.
@Land and Lore Photograph Off Road Adventures Generally in the lighting trade, regular incandescent bulbs are referred to as tungsten bulbs (tungsten being the filament material) while halogens are called tungsten halogen. It just gets confusing when colloquial terms are used.
Tungsten halogen bulbs only have the halogen cycle (where the tungsten is redeposited to the filament) after a period of time at 250-1,100C (485-2100F), hence the need for the quartz envelope. Short on-off cycling of halogen lamps do not provide sufficient time for the required heating, and thus the tungsten builds up on the envelope interior. Burning the lamp for 10 minutes at full power will redeposit the tungsten to the filament.
@Land and Lore Photograph Off Road Adventures 100% correct!
“Why you SHOULD install quality LEDs in your vehicle” would be a better title.
Auxbeam is the way to go.
I think you means, "Why you maybe or maybe not should install QUALITY leds in ur vehiclez".
The main reason I installed the LED interior bulbs was because of the reduced power used, 1.5 Watts with many of the LED bulbs vs. 10 Watts with the incandescent bulbs. This helps for those times where a light gets left on accidentally and drains your battery overnight!
The only problem I had with the ones I ordered was the glue that bonds the metal leads. In hot summer heat lasted about 2 months. If you find a good brand stick with it. They aren’t all the same.
That difference can be a huge one when it is for the lights used in the hazard flashers. I recall being by the roadside with a dead car and the flashers dragging the battery down before help arrived.
@@billj4137 The best are the non-plastic ones like at 3:35. I've lived with the grief you mention and it was no fun. I have had good luck with "SIR IUS LED" 194 bulbs from Amazon, but I would rather buy LEDs off the rack where I can see how they are made. Sometimes it is better to be lucky than good, other times it is better to just be good.
Stop leaving your lights on
changed out the interior lights on my vehicle years ago. Also, swapped out my backup lights. No problems. I guess I got lucky and bought the right ones. It clearly made a huge difference in the plus column. I recommend them
this guy is confused about what a halogen bulb is. Dude, get your facts straight before trying to teach others!
he does this in all his videos. Got you to post a comment, see the point of it? misstate and the experts get irritated. Brilliant tactic for engagement if you ask me.
I'm only a minute in and I am down in these comments b/c I can't believe this guy is this dumb.
but....I guess he is.
Could have gotten them mixed up. It can happen all the time
@@johndough23
True, but I'm tired of the tactic, and its still very irritating.
@@davidbostock6089 In the abstract this is what GOOD parents do with their kids. Its what good managers do with their staff. Confrontational management. Point is challenge one to engage. In doing so they become better people. The everybody wins a trophy mentality leads to soft spoiled brat people. There are no safe space in the real world. That's a GOOD thing.
I was a building engineer in two high residential high rises for over forty years during that time I had to make numerous shifts to new lighting technology (electronic ballasts,, f8, f6, low pressure sodium to high pressure sodium, and finally to LED’s which I have in 1999 f50) my advice is buy from a company that you have heard of (Philips, GE, Sylvania etc) yes they’re more expensive but they will probably last longer. Good luck!
Sylvania LED’s are very nice and high quality
@@ElantraFukkenGang Just replaced my 8 year old OEM halogen bulbs in my Jeep Wrangler with the Sylvania Silverstar Ultra Halogen H13 bulbs and that made a little difference. Now my next task is replacing the headlight itself as these are the originals and the clear lens has fogged over to the point of no return.I wasn't expecting a significant improvement in illumination since I am staying with halogen but some improvement will be gained with clear, not cloudy, headlight lenses.
There are a lot of considerations that weren't mentioned in the video.
Most older lamp housings were designed for bulbs with a very specific light source location and directivity, with a reflector and lens designed to create a very carefully considered dispersion and light output pattern. LED replacements rarely come close to matching the light source location of the bulbs they are replacing, so you get hot spotting and poor light output even if the bulb is nominally brighter. We've all seen this when people put in LED bulbs in their brake lights, resulting in a small red dot in the center of the lens area, instead of bouncing off the reflector and lighting up the entire brake light area. The problem can be especially bad with LED headlight bulb replacements, often resulting in a dangerous beam pattern with poor road illumination and glare for oncoming drivers. It can even affect interior lights, with high glare blueish light and poor dispersion to light up the interior. Blueish "cool" interior lighting may look "fresh" and "new", but it also can cause increased eyestrain and fatigue. At one time you could also find "warm white" LED bulbs with around 3000K color temperature, but these seem to have become increasingly scarce.
Your comment is worth more than the video. Thank you.
Agreed about the brake and front lights, it's a matter that should be tested before going on the road, although inside lights are not that often used therefore I see no problem switching them, my original halogen inner lights are rather fade so I don't think it could be worse at all.
I'll stick with halogen head light bulbs. Time tested at least. No guarantee how long the led lights gona last ,for any application on the car .head and dip lights also the blinker lights on a smart car for two. Is a nightmare to change. Unless you get the whole front plastic panels of to make easier. Then that also takes time to unscrew the whole front panel .which is all in one .
100% agree. good comment. I used to be on the led band wagon. no more. I think it's just a fashion statement and at the same time causing serious glare and safety issues for all the motorists out there. I love my factory toyota projector housings with halogen bulbs aimed correctly. hard to beat in my opinion. Lastly I'll add this to cap off your comment: There is a reason(s) oem's choose a headlight in the 3000-4500 kelvin range. I have yet to see a factory led in that range but factory led headlights have a good non offensive beam pattern from what i've seen.
Good comment. And these LEDs with the high color temperature (bright blue/white) are the worst for glare. Very blinding for oncoming drivers.
There's a reason they call it "soft white", doesn't strain the eyes.
It's interesting that heat is the problem. LED bulbs are supposed to burn cooler.
Me 10 mins in : So why shouldn’t I install leds in f**** I just got click bated..
I missed the reason why "You NEVER INSTALL LEDs IN YOUR CAR OR TRUCK!!?
True. I thought the same. In my experience, LEDs make a high frequency feedback that interferes with radio reception. Especially weaker AM and FM stations.
@@HamiltonSRink Only the ones that use a DC buck converter to limit current do that RF noise. a transistor or resistor on it's own will dissipate some heat but not create any RF noise.
@@therealromster Ok, fine. As a consumer, how does one tell the difference? Are the products marked somehow?
I missed the discussion about LED tail lights that trigger the fault switch indicating a non functioning light.
On my bike, I had to install a converter to let the bike know the lights are working.
I was told at the auto parts shop that wasn’t necessary, so I dumped good money into purchasing taillight LEDs in my 2013 RAM truck.
Almost immediately to fault switch was triggered.
Back to halogen.
I’d like to know the fix to this problem.
@@kenflauding6041 In future, the electrical engineers who design automobile electrical systems, will incorporate LED's properly. Until then, my personal vehicles will be using OEM type bulbs.
Now if you happen to be a qualified electrical engineer, you most likely know what is required.
I for one don't enjoy being blinded by oncoming traffic when these bright lights are aimed too high.
A factor in choosing them should also be to avoid using so called CANBUS compatible lamps where you don't need them. In order to not trigger fault detection in modern cars they have a surface mount resistor on the circuit board to simulate the load of a lamp. This is the source of a lot of the heat and often uses more power than the LEDs themselves. For interior lights that are not subject to CANBUS lamp testing you are better to use types without the load resistor (or you can remove it). I will not repeat the correct comments pointing out that not all filament lamps are halogen.
I watched many UA-cam for educational purposes, I have to mention some people are naturally gifted to teach. It can be many factors the speed of speech, voice tone, and where to emphasize. I am admiring every time when I watch your video. Such a talent I would like to aquire one day, excellent video. 😊 Thanks.
Comments were very informative, so I skipped the video. Cheers.
Yes,the best information is from this comment
I'm blind, deaf and don't know brail... Just driving in the dark blasting my stereo high af
So much for UA-cam removing dislike count 😑
Led lights should be illegal they're way too bright blinding other drivers down the road at night next time I see an LED light I'm going to buy a f****** mirror put it on my car and hopefully you blind your f****** self
Isn't that like sticking your head in the sand then getting text messages about what your butt smells like?
I've never had an LED interior light go bad. I'm still running LEDs I've installed over 10 years ago. One thing to watch on custom LED lights is sometimes with pairs of LEDs, the instructions tell you to put it on the wrong side and it won't fit there!
I pulled the trigger on a set of LEDs off a Facebook ad for my 01 Xterra about 7 years ago. Yeah yeah, back then, there were actual legit ads on Facebook. They were well under $100 for the set, they have a heat sink as well as a fan all built in. They are still going strong today.
Came to the comments to explain the difference between halogen and incandescent bulbs. I see many others did it for me. Good Job gentlemen.
I had the same problem when I replaced all the interior lights in my CamperVan.They were slightly longer in size,so stretched the contacts to make them fit.Excellent lighting now almost like day light with 12 volts.LEDs are certainly the best,
A problem I see is the manufacturers are now in an "arms race" as to who has the most intense headlights, along with signals that are too close to the headlights so you can't tell if the cars turning until its right on top of you!
I hate driving at night because a lot of vehicles lights behind me are so obnoxiously bright . I literally have to adjust all my mirrors down because its blinding.
I have to pull over on side streets with oncoming pickup trucks I'm literally blinded
@The Arch1tect
So true
I sometime think that I should replace my rear window glass to mirror
Tailgater repellent:
Run you mirrors down and out. Then adjust the ratchets to shine the light straight behind. When you get a blinder, just run your mirrors thbthis position and let him see his own lights.
Has worked for 30 yrs 👍🔔😱
I am glad I am not the only one complaining about headlights.I thought it just might be because I am in my 60's, These lights are dangerous to oncoming traffic and also blinding in rear view mirrors. This industry needs to be studied and standardized.
I have replaced my reversing lights with LED's and what a difference they make. Hadn't thought about doing all the other lights, like map lights and door lights, but I will be . Thanks.
Really enjoyed the video and particularly your clear presentation.
Cheers from Australia.
You never thought about changing the others? Really?
@@severnsea3924 ...Yeah ! how silly of me, hey ? Actually, I had thought about it, but that was one of those things I put on the "I'm gonna do" list lol. I was wondering though if the fact that the interior light and the map lights come on slow, if that would affect anything, but I suppose I'll soon find out. Thanks for giving me a serve for being slack 🤣
@@steiny3353 Ah no I wasn't having a go, it just seemed odd. Well worth doing, easy upgrade and they make a huge difference. I did the interior, the reverse lights (much brighter when reversing) and put a strip light in the boot to replace the existing one, cheap, 5 minute job and the difference is amazing.
Don't worry too much about the heat problems mentioned in the video, LEDs give out far less heat than the standard bulbs but don't buy the cheap unbranded, they don't last long and do burn out.
@lAcid Rainl ...Is that what that is..I often see on you tube videos where the stop lights are flickering, I've also seen both indicators flashing at the same time too, but that would HAVE to be a problem with hos electrical system. But as you say it's bloody anoying
All of these LED bulbs you demonstrated except, possibly, the one that melted a bit all have resistors to lower the voltage down to around 3 volts. This may actually cause them to last longer than you might think. However, I purchased a set of 120mm and 110mm ring lights, designed for 12V vehicle headlamp accents, for a photography project. I was trying to see if anyone using them has applied a resistor, since on visual inspection I don't see any on the rings. Figuring what size resistor can be calculated using an online source but I see little said about this for these lights. Are the resistors now in the circuitry of the later model vehicles for these?
@jeffhavel1364 absolute bullshit, leds dont need a resistor to emitt light. The resistors are there to drop the voltage. They also provide some kind of current regulation, because the leds might be damaged by too high currents if the voltage increases a little bit due to their large differential resistance.
You only need a resistor if you're replacing a blinker. And that's only in a vehicle new enough to know that it has a turn signal bulb out and it does that hyper blink. LED runs lower voltage, your car thinks it has a bulb out, a resistor fixes that.
Leds have an anode and cathode, if it don't work, pull it out and flip it around. Or just buy the correct bulbs for your vehicle.
“why YOU should NEVER run motor oil in your engines!”
"mEcHaNiCs HaTe HiM"
:D LOL!!! ;D
Why you should never use gas ⛽ in your car 🤣🤣
@@Shane23Armada The basic answer to your question is quite simple. If you never use gas in your car, your engine will never wear out! So you have car with eternal MTBF ! It will never break down, but rust will try to eat your car...🙂
@@richardhack9830 😁
I am still trying to understand why I should never install led lamps in my car!
I'm still wondering... Did I miss something?
@@stevenleber1485 there is no reason. This video was a waste of time
Wes Ryan indeed! Cheap led lamps is the only reason.
Sometimes, error codes can come up with LEDs because of the power draw difference.
What I wish the vehicles still have now are mechanical flashers, instead of the rate controlled by the BCM (body control moduele). Just replace the flasher with a LED unit and you're set.
Now, if you want to use LEDs in the turn signals, you have to add resistors to control the flash rate and in some cases, other areas where an error code come up.
Mount the resistor on the metal surface (plasic will melt if placed there) for heat disipation.
Manufacturers should've left that alone.
...Because it looks like a waste of time and money to me...and you might end up breaking things and buying bulbs more than once and replacing ones that don't need replacing. Find a better use of your time and money.
I installed LED stop and tail lights on my 2018 Sonata and the work fine. Far better than the incandescent stock bulbs.
Very well done review. IMO, if the intent is to replace the incandescent automotive bulbs in your vehicle with LED's, pay a little more and go with a reputable brand (e.g. Sylvania, Phillips, etc). I would steer clear of any off brand LED's. If you are just adding them for accents then that's fine but not for signals and headlights which your life depends on for safe driving. I have been tinkering with LED's for making custom task lighting in my home workshop and from all I read about LED's, heat dissipation is a huge factor in prolonging their life.
I agree that brake and signal lights need to be reputable brands. A friend replaced his combination bulbs that light as a tail light and should light brighter as a stop light when the brake is engaged. The light output between the tail light and the brake light was almost indistinguishable and very difficult for a driver behind him to determine that he was braking.
Thanks for the informative video. However, I don't think you were comparing LEDs to "halogen" bulbs. Bulbs you' were replacing are "tungsten" (filaments, that is) or, otherwise known as "incandescent" bulbs. Halogen bulbs do have high draw (amperage), and do have very high heat output, but also tend ro have very bright, "white" color output, like the LEDs you're comparing. Halogen bulbs are only used by auto manufacturers in headlights (they run way to hot to be safely used in other vehicle locations).
See my previous post.
way too hot to.......
Some truck drivers living in areas with snowy winter had regret switching to LED lights for the headlights of their truck. Ice built up on the cover of their headlights so much that they had to park the truck to have the ice removed. With incandescent light bulbs, the heat from the bulbs can prevent ice from building up on the cover of the headlights.
@@simon6071 their a reason why they made a yellow led bulb
@@urielhernandez3286 It doesn't matter if the color of the LED bulb for vehicles are white or yellow, the headlights are still more likely to be covered in ice than headlights with incandescent bulbs because LEDs are more energy efficient, i.e. release much less heat than incandescent bulbs, no matter they give out white or yellow light. GOOGLE: LED Headlights are dangerous in snow/ice storm
Some people suggested spraying the LED headlights with cooking spray, Fabulous PB Blaster or WD-40 before you head out in a snowstorm. Even if it works, I think it's too much hassle..
These UA-camrs are the one's you hit the "don't recommend this channel" on
Gladly
so what im hearing is, if ive got moderate short usage of interior lights cheap is okay for a while and dont cheap out all on exterior lighting?
I have no issues with LED's by any means, and the less draw on power is certainly a wonderful reason to get them. My personal preference is to run incandescents simply because the light feels a lot more friendly and less harsh than LED counterparts
There are less harsher LEDs, they're usually marketed as "warm white" or "golden white" bulbs so you'd have to look out for those. I love LEDs in general but cannot STAND the Bright White LEDs like the ones used in this video. Warm White/Golden White LEDs have a more sunlight-hued brightness as opposed to the cold, clinical look of the Bright White LEDs.
@@metroredline might have to look into that!
Meh, drawing less power is one of the last possible reasons to get them for automotive interior use because you will never notice the difference. The infinitesimal difference in the load on the alternator (pertaining to engine efficiency and thus fuel economy) to make a few mA more current for the brief moments you have those interior lights on, is less than the difference in fuel economy from farting towards the rear while driving.
You might think I'm kidding but it's really not measurable as a statistically significant % of fuel consumption over the entire operation cycle of the vehicle.
Now if you were instead talking about an amp or more mains AC current for your home light bulbs on several hours a day, then things change completely, makes the power savings of LED over incandescent quite worthwhile. If you prefer warmer color temperature light, there are both vehicle and home lighting options that aren't such a cold color temp.
You revealed to me in your video there are safety and reliability concerns with LED's. On DC Volt LED's I have seen plastic interior parts melt. Thanks for finding the interior lights with heatsinks. Fully agree with your point about temperatures of LED's; yet solutions I found exist for the DIY folks. So I measured 236 deg F on the aluminum heatsink on just one (1) AC powered LED. One time I bought highly You Tube recommended LED Headlamps. But the cheap electronic ballast melted before the LED. Best practice solution I have found to make these last longer without issue is add additional heatsink material. Separately, now there are other big concerns about LED manufactured products of cheap unregulated quality dumped on the unsuspecting market. Let's always advise the buyer beware especially DIY'ers.
The term for what he's spent so much time describing is "Fit for purpose". For high heat lamps that have no heat dissipating ability, air flow is critical. For continuous use lamps, such as markers or headlights, one has to select units designed for that purpose, as they'll take dissipating heat into account in their design.
Otherwise, we get melting and the significant potential for something to short to ground, with a very real risk of fire.
Just buy from a reputable dealer. The only outfit I buy my bulbs from has a 2 year warranty on their LED headlight bulbs and 3 years for the rest of the lineup.
I personally like having a cold white LED bulb in the center dome light while keeping the two reading lights intact as incandescents. Depending on how fast I'm going to get back to driving at night, I can pick whether I want a dim-as-poop, pleasantly warm light, or the bright and effective blueish light that fills the entire interior.
Managing the duration of night blindness like this is quite useful to me and it allows me to have the best of both worlds too.
Well thought out. Thanks
The “whiter” light is better for viewing, so you’d think the reading lights would benefit most.
You can get warm leds too and they’re slighter dimmer because of a layer that is placed above the chip
@@WM22 Agreed, according to Purkinje effect the higher the CCT the brighter it should be so for those lights 3200k high CRI and r9 should be better for preserving night vision and distance vision.
I just bought red or green ones like hunters use on their flashlights, I saw them at Scheels, inquired, and this is what they are used for, to see well while hunting with rifles and other boom sticks. They don't destroy all those rods and cones within our ocular blobbage we need alive and well and available on weekends to rent for kiddos bday parties. But really I tried it and if you just don't touch up the makeup according to their standpoint you'll be doing great and looking much sharper than sharper image using them. I used them for constant map queries while working to deliver food at night for Jimmy John's I never got the dreaded visual impasse but I still have handy immunity to iocane powder whilst delivering in the evenings for JJ's. I had a point amongst the words somewhere here..... SQUIRREL
Jimmy, I recently purchased an LED interior light kit for my 2017 VOLVO XC60. I replaced the dome lights, glove box light and map lights. Now, my glove box light and license plate lights do not work, the power drivers seat does not work and my fog lamp switch does not work.
I don’t understand. The box of LED lights says these LED lights were made specifically for my Volvo. Do LED LIGHTS cause electrical shorts or blow out fuses and replays? I’m confused
I changed all the dash and other bulbs in my f350 with LEDs. All but the headlamps. I love it. The flasher relay was upgraded to accommodate the lower current of the LEDs. Sometimes with the dash lights polarity is important. If in doubt look for the little + sign and put them in all the same way, then test before putting everything back together, all lit, you are good, no lights, swap them around.
Have fun, be safe
I paid less than $20 total for (2) pair of Ebay LED's... One pair of 3000K amber fog lights and one pair of 6000k (4) sided LED headlights. It's been (5) years now and they still work and look great on my 2015 Sierra. I have absolutely no complaints. It was an inexpensive solution that greatly exceeded my expectations.
Cool! Would you happen to know the Brand of LEDs you bought from eBay?
I completely rebulbed my van lights including the running lights and headlights to LEDs and I have been nothing but totally satisfied with how well they have worked in my van. Much brighter lights and much less power draw.
And blinding everyone else on the road.
Leds and the losers that cant see on the road at night without them are a danger to others.
@@abyssmanur3965 Normally, I would agree. I always hated the guys with floodlights coming at me at night.. However, my issue is that in my truck, there is no incandescent bulb that is bright enough for my personal standard of acceptable brightness. I would travel with my brights on and no-one would even notice the brightness of them. Usually, if you have your brights on, people would be constantly flashing you to turn them off. That doesn't happen to me.. I found some great leds on Amazon that are brighter than the incandescents, but not too bright and I am very satisfied with the results...
I changed my 2013 Ram in 2016 with all LED lights. Put switch back in my directionals on front. All my lights on the front are bright day light except when the directional come on, it switches to amber while blinking and back to white when it stops. Did interior, front and rear all LED .Even did my plow lights led. Bought all from the same company with outstanding reviews. Never had to change another bulb on my truck since. Bought LED tow mirrors also. Change the light configuration for all my lights with the ALGFA OBD from standard to LED. Never had a problem with codes or anything. Draws less power from the battery and alternator.
01/8 22 Insufficient time at opening to read 'Warning'. If Dealerships replace pre - LED bulbs will they use latest current LEDs?
My experiences have been varied. Most of the festoon style bulbs have had heat sinks, but the failures I've had have been a result of the lead free solder failing. Lead has superior uses.
I've switched from incandescent to LED's in all my instrument lights on my two 77 Cougar wagons, and also on all the turn signal lights front and rear. One important thing you may need to know, is that the some LED's are polarity sensitive. If the bulb doesn't work, reverse the bulb in the socket and it may work. Turn signal bulbs have the polarity fixed in the socket.
Instrument light sockets are what I'm referring to, so be sure to check to see if they work before you reassemble your instrument panel, i.e. try reversing the bulb in the socket if it doesn't light up. I prefer high intensity LED's in the instrument panel. These are more expensive. I had to drill out the holes to a larger diameter to fit the LED's through the holes they go in. I also had to remove the blue tinted lens covers in the instrument panel to get the bulbs to fit. The LED's do a better job of lighting up the instrument panels on my Cougar wagons. I purchased Sylvania LED's from Advanced Auto Parts. I have had no problem with any of these bulbs burning out or over heating anything.
I put them in my 1980 Mercury Capri (Foxbody) instrument panel because stock 192's are just dim in that cluster. I dont get to dim the LEDs but its alot safer now I can see!
-77 Cougar wagon(s), huh? You mentioning that to create some form of statement? Otherwise come off as a bit of a weirdo, who's out of the normal loop.
I bought a 1992 Buick Roadmaster recently that had aftermarket LED headlights already. They were not only installed upside down - high beams on the bottom and the low beams on the top - but they were not adjusted properly. So I purchased some OEM halogens that fit perfectly without having to have an extra connection for a tiny little fan at the back end of the LEDs to cool them. The halogens were actually brighter! I had to return them initially because since they were made in China the qc was awful and had to be replaced. The second set of halogens did the trick as the new technology of halogens are amazing. And like quartz iodine, halogens cannot be handled unless cleaned with ethanol afterward, so I was very careful.
Is there a way to dim the interior cabin lights on the Odyssey. I just bought the 2024 but imagine its the same for 2017-2024. I see the setting for timer of interior of interior lights but I'm wondering if ther is a way to adjust the brightness of the cabin lights. Please help. My baby is being blinded everytime I open the door at night.
Something I learned about installing LED lamps...they can't be mixed on the same parallel load circuit with incandescent bulbs. If you try, they will not light or only light very dimly and quickly overheat and fail. The resistance of the incandescent bulbs creates a current droop that will kill some LED array lamps.
You're calling an incandescent bulb a halogen, and I'm supposed to take you seriously? You tube is full of misinformants. Get your story straight.
🔵FYI,.... A halogen bulb is a TYPE of "Filament" bulb, if you look in it you can even SEE the filament!
@@joshhayl7459 But none of the filament bulbs in this video were filled with halogen gas, nor made of quartz glass. NONE of them were "halogen" bulbs.
@Manolis Gledsodakis ,
🔵 All that you have said is true!.......
but you missed my point entirely.
The statement that I was addressing was
The one made by 'Neil Anderthal', which was:
"You're calling an incandescent bulb a halogen, and I'm supposed to take you seriously? ".◻
What I was trying to get across to him was that: Incandescent Bulbs=Filament Bulbs,
Halogen Bulbs are Filament Bulbs,
therefore;
Halogen Bulbs ARE "Incandescent Bulbs"!!
@@manolisgledsodakis873 p,
Not that we're supporting any side, but the creator of this repeatedly stated that he was not claiming to be an expert on the subject matter, but sharing his realtime experience with led lights.
I replace the LEDs in my Volkswagen Eos cabin. They give an amazing amount of light however I did notice that when the doors were closed the LEDs were still on very faintly. It's like the switch is a completely off. How do I ferret out this problem?
I have a datsun 77 pickup its got those 168 bulbs for the dash turn indication oil lamp etc....i was wondering if i switched to led if it wpuld mess up the car.
Some LEDs like headlamp LEDs come with heat sinks and even cooling fans built in.
I bought some on amazon. They work fine, fans included :)
Oh LAMP ! NO "BULB" eh?
All he is saying people us that the cheap Chinese LED'S design has flaws like most chinese knockoffs.
Solid state LED will not overheat but the LEDs itself will not overheat or has any heat
@@charletonzimmerman4205 Bulbs are things you plant in the ground to grow stuff, Lamps are things that give light when energized by chemical reaction or electrical discharge. LOL TTFN.
@@uksuperrascal Then ,WHY ? I plant my BURNT-OUT, Incandescent "LIGHT" BULBS" in the EARTH, I don't get replacement ONES?
I learned about this when those cree leds started being mass manufactured. I bought a few cheap flashlights and was amazed at how bright they were for being a $10 light. Well there's a downside, the lack of heat dissipation. I learned my lesson with those, ya can't cheap out on leds because they get super, super hot.
An LED has almost zero resistance and would burn out instantly when voltage was applied. As a result, a series resistor is fitted, but being in the cap, cooling is a major problem. The TOTAL heat is far less, but it's location is the problem. Modern bulbs are now limiting the current electronically, but they are still in their infancy.
Hopefully, by the time manufacturers such as Bosch start producing bulbs, the early problems will have been resolved.
Some replacement or OE light fittings have the electronics away from the bulbs and mounted on a heat sync. These will probably de the future, with a 15,000 hour design life coupled with low current.
LED street lighting is suffering the same problems.
@@wilsjane Electronic current control should be well beyond infancy by now. The really cheap bulbs don’t use that method because it adds to the cost.
Maybe they’re overdoing the brightness. Maybe some of the extremely cheap ones are overdriving the LEDs. The fairly cheap ones we have have lasted years. But they never feel hot, even after being on for hours.
Hi. My name is Hector. I just replaced my halogen lightbulbs to led on my 2013 ram truck, well now i get a light out warning, the lights work fine my question is how do it fix this light warning?
Thank you
One issue with that flat type LED is light dispersion it has low output from the tip of LED which creates a bright spot on the flat (LED side) and not much coming out the top and and doesn't fill the light housing with light so the longer housings like the one in the door the output is bright on one end and less on the other.
Those applications in this video clip are interior lighting. In most circumstances those light ing devices (LEDs) may not be on for a significant time (eg. minutes), and overheat issue may not be big concerns .
Wait. I’ve watched 5 minutes and all I’ve learned is LED bulbs are better. Never use LEDs, eh? Sheesh.
Yep. Got us all to watch though.
yeah stupid title
The only reason not to is a slightly common issue with turn signal bulbs not drawing enough power to make the blinker circuit work right in older cars.
Clickbaity title
He said "Do not use LEDs without heat sink for heat dissipation"
Jimmy, I have a '95 Chevy K1500...how do you remove the bulbs from the eyeball map lights? I can get the lens off, but no go with the reflector and I'm afraid of breaking it? Do you or anyone have any tips to get at these bulbs? Not sure if you ever respond to subscriber comments but thought I'd give it a shot.
Problem with those thick-wedged retrofits is that they may not work in the housing. I bought a couple of them and I tried them in my Toyota which uses T10/W5W bulbs almost everywhere and none of them worked. I got the thin wedged ones afterwards and they worked like a charm.
I added leds in my cabin light 2 years ago and they are still working and also in my headlights more than 2 years ago.all leds that I have fitted in my car have passed the M.O.T test every year.
Follow up video: I learn what incandescent lights are.
Incandescent mean so hot it glows. That's why incandescent bulbs are so inefficient. Most of their energy is going out as heat. LED's (of the sort used in car/home lighting) produce a narrow spectrum of very bluish light and a little waste heat. The yellow you see is actually coating of various phosphors that absorb that light and re-emit it across the whole visible spectrum tweaked to some white point (i.e. 'daylight' or 'warm white', etc.) somewhere between 2700k and 6000k in most cases.
I tried the cheap led and kept popping the fuse. I bought next the sylvania LEDs sold at Walmart and these are the same ones I put in my Chevy pick up, worked and still working flawless, not popping the fuses. I’d say it’s definitely worth the extra money for the sylvania’s.
I have LED headlights in my car, but I feel the electric system suffers with them since it sometimes takes the ignition a couple of turnovers to start (and I have the load resistor built in with those LEDs). I never had that problem with halogens. A friend of mine is an engineer and he told me that changing out bulbs like that can interfere with electrical system, especially if the stock form of the car is halogen.
Fun fact: basic incandescent lamps are 90% heat and 10% light.
You are absolutely correct and I think it's actually 92% heat!
Fun Fact: a regular incandescent dome light can drain your battery overnight, especially during winter.
@@johnmccormick8159 exactly. I left my LED headlamps (yes the actual headlamps) on by accident for the day and the car still started at the end of the day.
Couldn't do that if they were incandescent globes.
True. But if the lamp has a reflector, 80% of the heat is radiated infrared out of the lamp. The LED heat isn't radiated because the heat comes from the electronics and LED chip and not from the LED light itself, so finally the LED gets much hotter than the old bulb.
@@SpeedFlap Is your point that if we could see infrared, the incandescent could be considered much more efficient? 😀😀😀 Totally agree with the rest of your post. 👍👍👍
Why are you installing LEDS when the title says why you never install LEDS?
to get engagement and posts from people like you lol.
@@johndough23 Moronic
Yet we're all here, aren't we?
I pop the lenses off all my lights, spray some 3M adhesive on the inside of the lens and then cover it with wax paper. Gives off a really nice fluorescent look and evenly spreads the light of the LEDs.
Could some form of this be used to clean the inside of dual pane windows, especially on Motor Homes, I'm trying to figure out a way to remove the fog from the inside glass.
You got a downvote from me for click-baiting.
Ditto
I'm not going to downvote him, I'm just not going to listen or do business with him. Clowns have a hard time of getting me to give them money.
Same! And I gave you a thumbs up!
Same here.👎🏻
Gee ax - same here, but gave you a 👍
I've read enough comments to know that the two items I was going to bust you for have been fairly well hammered home, those being Halogen vs incandescent, and the the fact that you SHOULD replace your light bulbs with LEDs. I will say this, I like your editing.
After installing after market led lights for front and mid dome in my 2004 Toyota Camry - my day time running left tail light and reverse light have been affected, after couple of months, my left day time running tail and reverse light have stopped working.
LEDs have disadvantages, on the one hand the high unhealthy blue component in the spectrum compared to a conventional light bulb. In addition, seeing more because it is brighter is only true to a limited extent. When buying LEDs, it is essential to pay attention to the color rendering index. Although the light appears brighter, you can see fewer colors. A conventional light bulb still has an unmatched color rendering index
On other thing to consider is that the LEDs are most often not placed correctly on the bulb to be used in an old halogen-type DRL or other external light. The reflectors are designed with assumption that the filaments are in certain positions. LEDs that are not placed in similarly exact position will cause light to go in all different directions that it's not supposed to go in an old reflector, and will blind other drivers.
sometimes blinding someone is better than people pulling infront of you because your lights arent bright enough. ive had to drive with my brights running 24/7 to avoid these distracted Asian drivers
My car had halogens from factory but in a projector housing, cheap China LEDs were washed out rubbish but the Philips aftermarket ones I used gave the exact same pattern just brighter and better colour.
I used Vintage Car LEDs for upgrading my 12v headlights in my 1963 VW. Quality lamps. Super performance. Literally like night and day
I installed LEDs (replacement bulb type, not the sheet of LED module) for my brake/tail lights on my 63 Beetle, and you can actually see them in daylight. WONDERFUL safety improvement!
I was the first person I knew to swap my cars to leds back in 2008 or so. Every car I have ever owned since then the first thing I did to them was swap in leds inside and out. Now my mom and everyone always wants the lights I have in my cars in their's lol
I watch your great videos, have just subscribed! I am a DIY car owner for many years and currently I own a '99 JDM Honda CRV 5 speed manual. I have learnt and practically applied so much from your content on car maintenance and repairs. Just completed servicing my O2 sensor. Thanks and much appreciation from Nairobi, Kenya!
The man from Kenya hurrah!👌
So then, why do we never want to install LED’s in our car or truck?
I installed super bright LEDS into my turn signals, brake lights, reverse, and side marker lights. I'm not having issues in my truck, I also installed LEDs into my interior lights and my puddle lamps as well. If you get HF noise you could easily install a inline noise filter into the power line to the radio.
There are so many form factors for auto interior lights. I ordered at least 10 LED replacement lights for our cars and most all turned out OK.
However, we have a Grand Caravan with 2 upper front map lights that have a fading dimming circuit. I replaced these and even when turned off they we dimly on. They were hard to take apart and replace. I had to put in the original filament light bulbs to avoid running the battery down.
I found in our Toyota Corolla the array of over 24 LED lights provided much more white day light into the cabin of the car. The original incandescent yellow light is much dimmer. The LED lights in daylight color is much nicer to see and read in darkness in a car.
My first LED car replacements were over 5 years ago from China. I obtained 10 LED replacements for nearly $10 with free shipping from China. It may have taken over 3 weeks from China but well worth it.
I just bought LEDs for my 2000 Cadillac DeVille and just installed them, will it mess the electrical system up?
H7 format LEDs worked well in my bike headlights. The two light emitters were about the same size and location as the original filament coil.
The snag was the light output overpowered the reflectors making the dip beam cut-off sit too high. I can’t believe that’s not unsolvable but the bulbs I bought were not correctly focussed.
H7 is notorious for being easy to install incorrectly. Installing them incorrectly will bother oncoming traffic. Are you sure that's not what has happened?
Reflectors don't change properties (light pattern) in any way relating to light intensity. This misunderstands what light is, and how it moves and reflects. A moved cutoff means the light source IS differently located in the new bulbs.
Totally solvable. Put the right bulb in the housing it was ment for.
Bulbs don't focus light--reflectors or projector lenses do the focusing. If your reflector wasn't designed with your *specific* bulb in mind, the problem you mentioned will be commonplace and you won't get the intended end result of proper illumination.
Just make sure they have good heat sinking on the resistor block and/or have enough LED's in series to handle the voltage. The cheap ones typically use fewer LED's.
In my experience, Lasfit makes good LED bulbs with all aluminum body. They also hold back the return power on turn signals for a good while. But eventually they will rapid blink. It only happens per actuation so it will reset after a few minutes without using the turn signal. Fortunately Sylvania makes LED bulbs now which are like the standard for automotive bulbs.
Speaking on Exterior light for your vehicle of the turn signals - you must also change the relay to electronic from the old standard that was dependent on the load bearing bulbs or your turn signals will not work properly and will hyper flash ...
The only problem i have with replacing my stock car bulbs with leds is hyperflashing, where i just learned that it can be fixed by updating the flasher relay module.
I changed from halogen to LED bulbs in my F150. I could not be more pleased with the performance compared to the halogens, which I considered as borderline dangerous for poor light output. I readjusted the lamp to account for the new bulbs and to make sure they are not in other drivers line of sight. 100% reliability after 2 years and performance is outstanding. I did the main lights, high beam and the fog lights.
I totally agree. My Explorer lights up way better at night and brightens up the highway whereas the former incandescents were very poor at lighting up the road at night.
Heres the problem, if they are whitelights you hurt the eyes of the guy infront. Yellow light is actually better and more peircing. Get yourself some yellow LED lights.
Thanks, at least you tried to correct blinding / glare oncoming Drivers..!,! Oddly, my 2015 Journey ( with HID? Headlamps, NO FOG LIGHTS, **is terrible & limited , esp in RAINY, DRIZZLE, TIMES)…..my 2007 GMC Canyon with and without FOG/ Factory Driving Lights ( anLIGHTING PACKAGE), is Totally Better & Different… …..
@@System0Error0Message yes, big PROBLEMS WITH TRUCKS/ Kids here in MONTANA ; glare, brightness, trailers/ dipping rear even more,metc.
@@System0Error0Message yes, big PROBLEMS WITH TRUCKS/ Kids here in MONTANA ; glare, brightness, trailers/ dipping rear even more,metc.
What I recommend as well is to look up videos of the brand you're planning to buy just to be sure if you want to go with the brand you find.
If you don't find any videos then I would recommend avoiding them but if you can find some decent amount of videos on the brand then weigh out your options once you see the results on the videos.
That's how I came across the brand I got and they have been working great for me.
I only replaced the tail lights on my 65 chevelle as the stock were horrible on a bright sunny day, especially if the sun was in the eyes of those behind me. I went with united Pacific, which were plug n' play and couldn't be happier. The led's are in a new lens, and u just plug it in to the original socket. You do need to replace flasher with an LED flasher, but that's it, and the difference is like night and day.
One thing to note is that the bluer color temp and brighter lighting will affect your night vision adversely. Personally, I try to use warmer LEDs (2800-3000k) rather than cool white or daylight. Also, I prefer not to have super bright interior lights other than maybe the cargo area. IMHO, it just blinds you when it's pitch black out, but it's really just personal preference.
Exactly. I have LED reverse lights and I still need to get LED cargo ones. My reverse lights are by Luminex by DieselLEDS and they have a great heat sink. As far as headlights I only use HID so I don’t blind oncoming traffic.
@@c7t1consulting87 After 6 months, nobody has flashed their headlights at me for having too bright of headlights unless I forgot to dim them.
It hasn't caused me any problems.
Eh?
@@genericdude6551 Me neither, that's why I don't get it. How can brighter light adversely affect your night vision? The whole point is to be able to see more clearly, hence you fit a brighter light.
in my car I replaced all the traditional bulbs with led bulbs (including the front headlights). I installed them four years ago and have never had any problems, not even with canbus. Of course they are not cheap models and I did not buy them in the shop below, but I have carefully chosen them on the internet based on the characteristics of the car.
That little bulb that you were calling a halogen sure looks to be an incandescent to me. I've replaced all of my interior and exterior bulbs with LEDs 12 years ago and have had no failures.
Thanks did not realize that there was that much difference between regular led and ones that run hot. Now I’m going to check my ram pickup to see if lights are on during the day. Thanks again looking forward to new videos
Still waiting for reasons "Why you NEVER install LED's in your car or Truck!!"
I'm wondering it was sarcasm or a gimmick to get us to watch.
Subscribe if you are not already suckas
Ya he got me too, should be DON'T BUY CHEAP LED'S
Also maybe dont pick wrong configuration of LED for the type of projector you are using.
crxdelsolsir he saying be careful about bulb design and heat sink.
He neglects to mention that the LED´s are polarity sensitive.
Unless they have an integrated bridge rectifier.
@@jayherde0 that is true, but I don't think many if any do. He also claims they don't last as long. They will last longer if the lamp doesn't fail from water egress of overheating, which has been my experience.
and suck...
Not all are, the new ones aren't polarity sensitive. But yes many still are
the problem i see with led headlights is that while the driver with leds can see ahead better, the oncoming traffic can see less because the led is more blinding and harsh
Something to be aware of with those "festoon" LED lights is the physical size of the LED array and it's heat-sink.
Even though the overall length of the bulb is correct, and the contacts are the correct size, some LED arrays just won't fit in the space intended for a regular bulb.
Also, more importantly, the heat-sink sits very close to the electrical contacts and if it touches them it'll short out and blow a fuse.
They come in various sizes (array of 20 LEDs, 15 LEDs, 8 LEDs etc) so it's probably best to buy one and see if it fits before buying more.
If you have problems, look for a bulb with fewer LEDs that'll probably fit more easily.
Some LED bulbs, like headlight LED bulbs, do come with heatsinks and some even have cooling fans.
my 2011 ranger had a horrendous dome lamp... I replaced it with a blinding bright white LED. I'm happy with it. I do need to do the others, like my backup bulbs, they're absolute crap.
My '98 Ranger has a 2 light incandescent dome light and it puts out more light than I need in my standard cab.
Dave what style LED are you talking about? My Ford uses 3 bulbs in the dome light, and like you I recently installed LED, the central location being a 578 "festoon" light and the side bulbs are bA9s which didn't work at all. I later found out that the bA9s in this application are polarity sensitive, meaning I had to re-wire the curcuit so that the positive and negative wires were opposed to one another. Did you run into any issues when you installed your LED?
@@scorpionwins6378 it's leds on a chip, nothing fancy really. no problem with installation, just a lot less heat
How about the light’s on the mirrors where the sun visor . Is difficult to replace on Toyota Highlander 2015 ❓
Something to be considered is that whilst it’s all fine and dandy to replace inferior lights with LEDs, not all head lights are suitable for LEDs if they have older reflectors designed for conventional bulbs. These reflectors tend to scatter the light from LEDs because the light is produced or projected differently, this can result in headlights that dazzle oncoming traffic when on low beam. Obviously on high beam it doesn’t matter so if you have separate bulbs for high and low beam then you can use conventional bulbs for the low beam and LEDs for the high beam. Otherwise you better check that your headlights are not blinding, dazzling and annoying other drivers before sticking with them.
Wanna remember the assholes on the road that use lights that specifically blind you
I remember being blinded all the time when LEDs were a new thing. Not sure what happened since then, but possibly newer vehicles are designed to accommodate LEDs.
@@deltatango5765 yes newer vehicles that come with LEDs have the correct reflectors to focus them properly without having a dazzling scattered pattern. I have just fitted LEDs in my 2004 Discovery main beam and they’re brilliant (pardon the pun) but I can’t fit them in the dipped beams because they will just blind oncoming motorists.
That is supposed to read “ inferior lights” not “interior” damned unpredictive awful-spell! I can’t edit it now but I guess it doesn’t change the main point. 😎
Have you not heard of LEFs yet?! They’re a new extra bright light called Lumen Extra Frequency! 😆 Apologies, fell foul of unpredictive awful-spell again!! Obviously I meant LEDs 😎
I prefer the 'warm' color temperature LED light. I think the 'cooler' color temperature LED produces a harsh blueish light.
Absolutely! Thanks Frank!
Frank Bartlett Me too.
Daylight is the way to go for me. 5000K
LED lights damage your eyes.
That blue tint is the easiest to manufacture. Getting other color temperatures require special filters that make the LED more expensive and reduce the lumin output a bit too.
Cool.. I've been slowly replacing all of mine on the FJ.. First was the domes and the reverse lights. So nice being able to see backing up. So far I've had great results going through Diode Dynamics. I like their knowledge, Build quality, and the multiple options they give you depending how bright you want, color and how much you want to spend.
Thanks! Ill check diode dynamics out
I'm looking for H3 led fog lights for my GX470. 3000K would be good.
@@EdwinMactalMusicI changed everything except the headlights and 3rd brake light on my 2006 Acura RSX with LEDs from Diode Dynamics. Fantastic output. A little pricey, but bright red tail lights help keep the big guys away
@@pmrich6805 Would they have bulbs that fit older cars like a 99 Toyota Camry?
Replaced all of the lights (that I could) on my MINI Cooper S about 4 years ago with LEDs. Only had one burn out. I have a light error pop up every once in a while but they all work fine
Changed my 2019 Ram 1500 Classic from stock headlights to Tiny Monsters LEDs. Fraking awesome.