thank you. this was exactly the inffo I needed with not alot of other talk in between. Just facts and straightforward. I wrote the steps down as you went and I am about to get started.
Hi Laura - THANK you! I'm glad you found this tutorial helpful and I can't wait to hear about (maybe see in a post?!) your results. I've been able to reuse my mesh stencils more than 25+ times and hope you'll get many uses out of your stencils, too.
Thank you so much for this amazing videos and for providing the list of materials. I have bought stencil with mesh and they are very expensive. Looking forward to making my own. Thank you so much
You’re welcome! I wanted to get away from buying the expensive mesh stencils as well, so I was happy to put all my info together, experiment and come up with the best solution.
I'm going to try the iron on vinyl instead and use an embroidery hoop to create a frame since it won't be re-stickable with this method. I found with this method one really needs to use reverse weeding for intricate designs. I wasted so much material trying to do it the regular way. The challenge though with the reverse weeding is having to reapply it to the original vinyl backing in order to heat bond the mesh to the top of the vinyl. I saw this method on Design your life you tube channel. I''ll now watch yours to see how yours compares. For working on paper use 160 mesh.
@@ReMadeWithLove embroidery hoop didn’t work so well. Using it flat without was better when working on paper. The method with heat and bond I’ll use for bigger designs . I’m also wondering if I should try a denser mesh for paper. 🤔
@@JanineMKartist I wonder if we can use this method but on the reverse side of the vinyl so the sticky part is not going to stick onto the paper. I want to make one to screen print onto papers
Sucorra Day asked: So, you cut the vinyl, then put the screen on top of the vinyl? How does it stick so the vinyl? Good question! Answer: The vinyl shown has an adhesive that melts to the vinyl and bonds the two linking typically unlinked parts (think middle of an 'o'). When you use the vinyl on your item, you are using the vinyl itself to use to hold it to the item you want stenciled.
This response was hard to follow. It’s not the vinyl that is making the mesh screen stick, it’s the adhesive layer (purchases separately) that you place between the vinyl and mesh. Correct?
Thank you, for your instructional video, just one note, my Cricut press must run hotter because 15 seconds was way to long it melted it right to the wax paper. Test, test and test again.
Oh Vickie, so sorry to hear this, but YES, test, test, test your machine settings, etc., to find what works for you. (Certainly can use as a guideline). I sometimes have to go 30 seconds on mine :/
Mine did too at 10 secs. I guess it even melted the adhesives from the vinyl itself since after weeding I have some adhesives left where it should be empty.
Yes, if you wash it immediately after using! Some paints may stick to the front surface, but if you wash immediately and gently it won't stick in the mesh. you may need a drop of the blue Dawn, but no more! By layering these it will become reusable.
Have you etched multiple cups in one sitting with this? I want to etch mason jars for a party favor but seems like a lot of work to etch, wait 15 min, wash it all off, and then etch the next one.
@@xxsecretdreamerzxx I’ve washed them out. The cream I use doesn’t dry out so I’m not concerned about clogging the screen, but I didn’t want to accidentally pull off cream and potentially transfer it to my next item to be etched when I’m positioning it on that new item. As I’m thinking about this I think I will try reusing multiple times without washing and see what happens. I think if I allow a good amount of edge space on the stencil and am careful with the transition I could get a number of clean etches.
Have you tested how many uses you get out of one? Thinking of doing this bc I want to buy these stencils but there just expensive for only bout 10-15 uses
Hi Shelly - that's a great question! I think how long your DIY-made reusable mesh stencil lasts depends on if you're able to clean off the media (etching cream I've found is really hard to get off), and wash it right away or not. The most I've reused was 19 times, and this was a combination of using it multiple times in a single sitting, washing and drying, storing, and reusing again a couple of times to make 19 items. I still have the stencil but have not tried it since, so I suppose it could work for more projects. What starts to wear off (as is with purchased mesh stencils) is the sticky back. If you really didn't want to make another stencil I suppose you could try to spray the back with the adhesive that makes the back tacky.
I’m using a gel art ink. It’s a thickened paint that easily presses through the mesh. You can also use ink/paint used for silkscreening. The brand I personally use is Amy Howard Gel Art Ink.
Any tips on how to keep the middle of letters (center of a P for example) to stay stuck to the screen rather than staying stuck to the backing? Every time I make one it looks great until I peel it off the backing to use, then some of the centers of the letters stay stuck to the backing.
So, it sounds like you are having trouble when you are heat bonding, right? Perhaps a little more time during this process will create a stronger bond so that it won't pull off. A big plus for making mesh is that you have the floating letters be able to turn out perfectly when you stencil.Please let me know if this works out or not using more time.
@@ReMadeWithLove thanks so much for replying! I did go longer and that seemed to help! But this time I had issues with glue bleeding into the mesh part of the stencil 😩 so I think I need to lessen the amount of time I heat the mesh.
@@ReMadeWithLove I’ve tried increasing the length of time, increasing the temp on my heat press, and I’m still having issues. I’m using cricut permanent vinyl. Could it be the vinyl I’m using?
@@lindahannan943 Hi Linda, I am a (crafter), I am a customizer. I mostly customize sneakers, and women shoes. I started making masks. I mostly paint, airbrush and utilize crystals in my work. I want to design signs as well but right now I am a little behind in these masks. Time is a very valuable asset to have which can be very little of, if you understand my meaning.
Sorry - just seeing this. YES - use this on wood- I have! Of course, like anything else that you stick to something, if the surface is really rough and you don't or can't burnish flat or tight to the wood, there may be bleeding when you press the ink thought. I've used these stencils on glass, wood, fabric like canvas (which can be a little rough and have fibers that you have to watch out for), as well as tin, walls, tiles ... I think that's all. Please ask any other questions!
Also, using something like Amy Howard's gel art ink or a cream would have more body than paint and work best with stencils. I've not had bleeding with those.
Thank you for the tutorial. Question about reuse - After you wash the ink or paint off the stencil, will it still continue to be sticky enough to stick to the glass for reuse?
Hi Our Fun House (!), if you don't use a soap that strips the vinyl you should be able to use this over and over. Make SURE you throw your stencil in lukewarm water right after pulling off, then gently rub the mesh area with your fingers or use a wet sea sponge to work paint off the mesh. I squeegee the stencil with my fingers, then dry it sticky side up on a dry kitchen towel. When it is completely fry you can restick to it's base and reuse over and over again.
Hi Our Fun House (!), if you don't use a soap that strips the vinyl you should be able to use this over and over. Make SURE you throw your stencil in lukewarm water right after pulling off, then gently rub the mesh area with your fingers or use a wet sea sponge to work paint off the mesh. I squeegee the stencil with my fingers, then dry it sticky side up on a dry kitchen towel. When it is completely fry you can restick to it's base and reuse over and over again.
@@ReMadeWithLove Thanks!! I went through the video and placed my order. Also, it works with the sheer curtain from Walmart. You’re method is very easy to follow. Thanks for sharing
Hi Tienne! Since making this video I got a heat press and, yes, I've used Oracle 651 with a heat press. Watch your temps - you might have to try out a few to perfect your heat setting for your particular press. I've used on tile and in my ice cream cozy (Koozie) video. Thanks for asking! Please send me a post of your creations :)
Hi Jane! I haven't tried using this with embossing ink as I primarily use a smooth gel ink with mine. I have used this with etching cream which is thicker like a toothpaste and have had no bleed, sharp edges, and a clear etch, which may be similar to embossing ink. If you try it let me know!
Hi again Cheryl! It sounds like you've weeded before bonding with the heat bond? If so, there will be heat bond in the void left by the removed letters/stencil area that is not cut away from the backing. That should be removed, so it's best to follow the step in the beginning and bond the uncut vinyl to the heat bond before curling your stencil and weeding. Let me know if I misunderstood your question and should address another issue. Thanks for watching!
@@ReMadeWithLove yes that is what i did. I wanted to make sure before i applied the heat bond if I’d be able to use one that I’ve already weeded. Thanks for your help
Is there an alternative adhesive that won’t alter the integrity of the front surface of the stencil? I made one today to be used with chalk paste and there is just too many peaks from the adhesive layer making it not smooth and not an easy surface to work with.
Kristi, I've used this process with this product and have not had the problem of too many peaks. I've used it with both chalk paint and with etching cream. I'm wondering what you are using to apply your chalk paste? Using the hard plastic spreader pushes down and into the stencil while pulling off the excess paint. Have you tried this? I'll also be on the lookout to see what different adhesives others may have used and post if/when I find. Will you also post if you have found a great alternative? Thanks!
You can use htv. I haven't tried that yet since I saw this video 1st and got my heat and bond already. But I'm having trouble using this method so I might need to try the htv one.
Chloe, this is an interesting question - I don't think I've ever had air bubbles after pressing! The air bubble would make it not stick. Depending on where the air bubbles showed up - in your mesh or in your vinyl - could make a difference about how it affects your stencil. Did you try using it? Did you try repressing to melt and get the air bubble out? Share what you did and how it worked out.
Hi Janet. I would only use removable vinyl as you really don't want to have trouble getting the stencil off, and the vinyl is what you will press down onto the item to be stenciled.
You can use permanent vinyl but it’s crucial to “fuzz” it first. This means take a microfiber mat and place and peel it on the mat a few times. The adhesive side will accumulate fuzz, making it less permanent. Rinse in water immediately after using the stencil and let it dry adhesive side up
thank you. this was exactly the inffo I needed with not alot of other talk in between. Just facts and straightforward. I wrote the steps down as you went and I am about to get started.
Thanks, Gwen! I hope you have fun and master this so you can have success with better stenciling!
Can’t tell you how much I appreciate the thoroughness of this video!!!! This opens so many doors for creativity for me!
Thank you! I love making my own designs and hope you do, too!
@@ReMadeWithLove just went out to by the heatbond and will be practicing tonight! 🙌🏽💗
My cricut and i have some vinyl rolls to get through. I am so happy i found this channel.
Awww, thank you, Laura!
Fantastic tutorial! I love that you did everything in real time. I can’t wait to try this for myself. Thanks for sharing!
Hi Laura - THANK you! I'm glad you found this tutorial helpful and I can't wait to hear about (maybe see in a post?!) your results. I've been able to reuse my mesh stencils more than 25+ times and hope you'll get many uses out of your stencils, too.
Thank you so much for this amazing videos and for providing the list of materials. I have bought stencil with mesh and they are very expensive. Looking forward to making my own. Thank you so much
You’re welcome! I wanted to get away from buying the expensive mesh stencils as well, so I was happy to put all my info together, experiment and come up with the best solution.
I'm going to try the iron on vinyl instead and use an embroidery hoop to create a frame since it won't be re-stickable with this method. I found with this method one really needs to use reverse weeding for intricate designs. I wasted so much material trying to do it the regular way. The challenge though with the reverse weeding is having to reapply it to the original vinyl backing in order to heat bond the mesh to the top of the vinyl. I saw this method on Design your life you tube channel. I''ll now watch yours to see how yours compares. For working on paper use 160 mesh.
ok
@@ReMadeWithLove embroidery hoop didn’t work so well. Using it flat without was better when working on paper. The method with heat and bond I’ll use for bigger designs . I’m also wondering if I should try a denser mesh for paper. 🤔
@@JanineMKartist I wonder if we can use this method but on the reverse side of the vinyl so the sticky part is not going to stick onto the paper. I want to make one to screen print onto papers
Sucorra Day asked: So, you cut the vinyl, then put the screen on top of the vinyl? How does it stick so the vinyl? Good question! Answer: The vinyl shown has an adhesive that melts to the vinyl and bonds the two linking typically unlinked parts (think middle of an 'o'). When you use the vinyl on your item, you are using the vinyl itself to use to hold it to the item you want stenciled.
This response was hard to follow. It’s not the vinyl that is making the mesh screen stick, it’s the adhesive layer (purchases separately) that you place between the vinyl and mesh. Correct?
I can’t wait to try! Great instruction. Thank you
Woo-hoo! Let me know how it goes - even post your stencils as I'd love to see them!
Thank you, for your instructional video, just one note, my Cricut press must run hotter because 15 seconds was way to long it melted it right to the wax paper. Test, test and test again.
Oh Vickie, so sorry to hear this, but YES, test, test, test your machine settings, etc., to find what works for you. (Certainly can use as a guideline). I sometimes have to go 30 seconds on mine :/
Mine did too at 10 secs. I guess it even melted the adhesives from the vinyl itself since after weeding I have some adhesives left where it should be empty.
Will the sticky side stay sticky once you wash the screen?
Yes, if you wash it immediately after using! Some paints may stick to the front surface, but if you wash immediately and gently it won't stick in the mesh. you may need a drop of the blue Dawn, but no more! By layering these it will become reusable.
Thank you for sharing!!
Awww Juniper ... thank you so much! Please post a photo of what you make!
Have you etched multiple cups in one sitting with this? I want to etch mason jars for a party favor but seems like a lot of work to etch, wait 15 min, wash it all off, and then etch the next one.
You can make multiples of the same stencil and do them at the same time cutting down on wait time. Then wash all and reuse for the next batch.
@ReMadeWithLove have you tried reusing the stencil without washing them out or would the cream be dried out on the stencil
@@xxsecretdreamerzxx I’ve washed them out. The cream I use doesn’t dry out so I’m not concerned about clogging the screen, but I didn’t want to accidentally pull off cream and potentially transfer it to my next item to be etched when I’m positioning it on that new item.
As I’m thinking about this I think I will try reusing multiple times without washing and see what happens. I think if I allow a good amount of edge space on the stencil and am careful with the transition I could get a number of clean etches.
Great info!
Thanks, Alana!
Have you tested how many uses you get out of one? Thinking of doing this bc I want to buy these stencils but there just expensive for only bout 10-15 uses
Hi Shelly - that's a great question! I think how long your DIY-made reusable mesh stencil lasts depends on if you're able to clean off the media (etching cream I've found is really hard to get off), and wash it right away or not.
The most I've reused was 19 times, and this was a combination of using it multiple times in a single sitting, washing and drying, storing, and reusing again a couple of times to make 19 items. I still have the stencil but have not tried it since, so I suppose it could work for more projects. What starts to wear off (as is with purchased mesh stencils) is the sticky back. If you really didn't want to make another stencil I suppose you could try to spray the back with the adhesive that makes the back tacky.
Can you use the shiny vinyl or does it have to be the Matte?
Hi Kathy, you can use the shinny, but I just prefer working with the matte as I find it easier for my fingers to work with.
What kind of paint are you usinge please. Wonderful tutuorial.
I’m using a gel art ink. It’s a thickened paint that easily presses through the mesh. You can also use ink/paint used for silkscreening. The brand I personally use is Amy Howard Gel Art Ink.
Any tips on how to keep the middle of letters (center of a P for example) to stay stuck to the screen rather than staying stuck to the backing? Every time I make one it looks great until I peel it off the backing to use, then some of the centers of the letters stay stuck to the backing.
So, it sounds like you are having trouble when you are heat bonding, right? Perhaps a little more time during this process will create a stronger bond so that it won't pull off. A big plus for making mesh is that you have the floating letters be able to turn out perfectly when you stencil.Please let me know if this works out or not using more time.
@@ReMadeWithLove thanks so much for replying! I did go longer and that seemed to help! But this time I had issues with glue bleeding into the mesh part of the stencil 😩 so I think I need to lessen the amount of time I heat the mesh.
@@ReMadeWithLove I’ve tried increasing the length of time, increasing the temp on my heat press, and I’m still having issues. I’m using cricut permanent vinyl. Could it be the vinyl I’m using?
@@nicolesaylor6834 could be. I use Oracle.
Great video
@@lindahannan943 Hi Linda, I am a (crafter), I am a customizer. I mostly customize sneakers, and women shoes. I started making masks. I mostly paint, airbrush and utilize crystals in my work. I want to design signs as well but right now I am a little behind in these masks. Time is a very valuable asset to have which can be very little of, if you understand my meaning.
Thanks!
Can this be used on wood? Would the paint bleed? Great video, very easy to follow.
Sorry - just seeing this. YES - use this on wood- I have! Of course, like anything else that you stick to something, if the surface is really rough and you don't or can't burnish flat or tight to the wood, there may be bleeding when you press the ink thought.
I've used these stencils on glass, wood, fabric like canvas (which can be a little rough and have fibers that you have to watch out for), as well as tin, walls, tiles ... I think that's all.
Please ask any other questions!
Also, using something like Amy Howard's gel art ink or a cream would have more body than paint and work best with stencils. I've not had bleeding with those.
Thank you for the tutorial. Question about reuse - After you wash the ink or paint off the stencil, will it still continue to be sticky enough to stick to the glass for reuse?
Hi Our Fun House (!), if you don't use a soap that strips the vinyl you should be able to use this over and over. Make SURE you throw your stencil in lukewarm water right after pulling off, then gently rub the mesh area with your fingers or use a wet sea sponge to work paint off the mesh. I squeegee the stencil with my fingers, then dry it sticky side up on a dry kitchen towel. When it is completely fry you can restick to it's base and reuse over and over again.
Hi Our Fun House (!), if you don't use a soap that strips the vinyl you should be able to use this over and over. Make SURE you throw your stencil in lukewarm water right after pulling off, then gently rub the mesh area with your fingers or use a wet sea sponge to work paint off the mesh. I squeegee the stencil with my fingers, then dry it sticky side up on a dry kitchen towel. When it is completely fry you can restick to it's base and reuse over and over again.
Can you list the products used please? I would like to place an order on Amazon without having to keep going through the video. Thanks
Me, too.
Ok will do
Sorry William - I've now listed all items - thank you for reminding me!
Done - thank you for reminding me (this was one of my first videos posted)!
@@ReMadeWithLove Thanks!! I went through the video and placed my order. Also, it works with the sheer curtain from Walmart. You’re method is very easy to follow. Thanks for sharing
Hi, can I use self adhesive vinyl and 100 count silf screen?
YES!
oracal 651 can be used with a heat press?
Hi Tienne! Since making this video I got a heat press and, yes, I've used Oracle 651 with a heat press. Watch your temps - you might have to try out a few to perfect your heat setting for your particular press. I've used on tile and in my ice cream cozy (Koozie) video. Thanks for asking! Please send me a post of your creations :)
what are the settings for the cutter?
Herman, I am away from my Cricut, so I'll respond when I get back.
Thanks for the great tutorial! I was wondering if this type of stencil could be used with an embossing ink like the Ranger Emboss It Dabber?
Hi Jane! I haven't tried using this with embossing ink as I primarily use a smooth gel ink with mine. I have used this with etching cream which is thicker like a toothpaste and have had no bleed, sharp edges, and a clear etch, which may be similar to embossing ink. If you try it let me know!
@@ReMadeWithLove will do! And thank you for answering! 🙏🏼🙏🏼🙏🏼
Will it work if i have already weeded the vinyl?
Hi again Cheryl! It sounds like you've weeded before bonding with the heat bond? If so, there will be heat bond in the void left by the removed letters/stencil area that is not cut away from the backing. That should be removed, so it's best to follow the step in the beginning and bond the uncut vinyl to the heat bond before curling your stencil and weeding. Let me know if I misunderstood your question and should address another issue. Thanks for watching!
@@ReMadeWithLove yes that is what i did. I wanted to make sure before i applied the heat bond if I’d be able to use one that I’ve already weeded. Thanks for your help
Is there an alternative adhesive that won’t alter the integrity of the front surface of the stencil? I made one today to be used with chalk paste and there is just too many peaks from the adhesive layer making it not smooth and not an easy surface to work with.
Kristi, I've used this process with this product and have not had the problem of too many peaks. I've used it with both chalk paint and with etching cream.
I'm wondering what you are using to apply your chalk paste? Using the hard plastic spreader pushes down and into the stencil while pulling off the excess paint. Have you tried this?
I'll also be on the lookout to see what different adhesives others may have used and post if/when I find. Will you also post if you have found a great alternative? Thanks!
You can use htv. I haven't tried that yet since I saw this video 1st and got my heat and bond already. But I'm having trouble using this method so I might need to try the htv one.
what do you do if you have an air bubbles after you press it?
Chloe, this is an interesting question - I don't think I've ever had air bubbles after pressing! The air bubble would make it not stick. Depending on where the air bubbles showed up - in your mesh or in your vinyl - could make a difference about how it affects your stencil. Did you try using it? Did you try repressing to melt and get the air bubble out? Share what you did and how it worked out.
Would this work with Permanent Vinyl? I already have the cut, but seeing this makes me not want to waste it and make it into a reusable stencil.
Hi Janet. I would only use removable vinyl as you really don't want to have trouble getting the stencil off, and the vinyl is what you will press down onto the item to be stenciled.
You can use permanent vinyl but it’s crucial to “fuzz” it first. This means take a microfiber mat and place and peel it on the mat a few times. The adhesive side will accumulate fuzz, making it less permanent. Rinse in water immediately after using the stencil and let it dry adhesive side up
Can I use stencil vinyl instead of removable one?
Does this work with couture chalk
Yes, I've heard from a follower that this WILL work with Couture Chalk!