*Great **Latest.Bike** , good looking, good suspension and love the gearing. I've tested some bikes that were more then twice the price but not as good. Get lots of looks when riding.*
Dude, you are a total stud. You are one of the only guys with the correct understanding of conscious doing vs letting the pedal stroke happen. Very good. Keep it up.
I've been able to accelerate to the tune of two hundred watts faster if I pull up on my pedals as well as push down, so it clearly works--at least for me.
Your focus should be on kneeing up towards handlebars but trying to actually pull back as you push down on the other side is asking for problems .... there are so many professionals out there that used to think doing a smooth circle is what mattered, however recently everyone pushes their saddle forward because they want to apply the most power and only focus on pushing down and not back. If you put saddle back you engage hamstrings more and that’s fine, it does help. That should be done naturally on the back of ur stroke. Downside of totally forward is moving center of mass.
hornetluca Totally understand...kind of the equivalent of standing up occasionally on a climb. Technically seated climbing is supposed to be more efficient but brief periods of standing work the muscles in a different range and can minimize fatigue (including central fatigue). Neither are a great long term or consistent technique, is my main point. Thanks for watching!
Quick question, Does having toes down rather then toes up during the pushing phase in pedaling could cause knee pain? Also does pedaling technique affect the saddle height?
I have always thought that the phrase "pulling up on the pedal stroke" was ambiguous. When people say they are pulling up on the pedal stroke do they actually mean they are exerting a vertically UP force on the pedal? I don't think so. At least not for more than a couple seconds. What I think they are saying is that they are pulling up with their muscles enough so that their foot is not pushing down significantly on the pedal due to the weight of their leg (which is not insignificant). This reduces the negative "bad" torque on the crank by the rising leg. When I try to pedal as SMOOTHLY as possible, I do use the muscles in my rising leg so that the rising foot pushes down on the pedal as little as possible. But, I never actually pull up on the pedal. None of this is to say that in mad sprint by professionals they don't actually pull up on the pedals. They do. In fact, veledrome racers strap their feet to the pedals so they don't unclip on the upstroke.
Decades ago, I was taught to think of pedaling in circles, and I try to accomplish this by pushing down then dragging backwards, just through the dreaded dead spot. I don't actually know what my ankles are doing; as long as I'm turning circles, it's doing what it should be doing, right?
I have severe arthritis in my feet & ankles & was hoping buying an e-bike would help but I seem to be in a lot of pain after biking. Obviously I’m doing something wrong.
i scrap pedal forward/backward a lot that from my accelerate from a stop measurement, i think i put more power when crank at top and bottom than when the crank are at 90 degree. It's like push down phrase there is only one leg at work since another leg is going up. While at top and bottom both legs are at work one push forward another pull backward. Another note is my ankle is almost level (but still a tiny bit toe down) throughout the entire pedal stroke it doesn't really moving. Should i have some check? or if it doesn't cause me a problem then it's good?
I have a question. I'm planning on buying shorter, 165mm cranks on both my MTB and my road bike(both have 175mm cranks on now). The sram NX would have a q-factor of 168mm, but the Shimano 105 crank has 146mm q-factor. Is it worth changing to non-series cranks that are 4mm wider (150mm, and 200g heavier-non-hollow crank arms) so my two bikes would be closer to each other in terms of the q-factor?
Great video! I’m going to be replacing my crank as part of a larger upgrade. I was already planning on going from 175 to 172.5, but in another video you meantion that this is a negligible difference. I’ve noticed that my foot is very flat across the top of my pedal stroke and am wondering if going to a 170 crank would be smarter. The rest of my fit seems pretty dialed in.
Well, the newest New Age American hipster fad is going to 165's. Really. 165's...... Wutta great New Age American hipster idea. Throw out everything that is traditional, proven, in fact superior of the past and embrace THE NEW, just for the sake of, that's right...., THE NEW...... Cling to every New Age American hipster fad! Make sure you're seated way forward and spin, spin, spin. Spinning is so NOW, too.........
From my experience if you keep your toes down rather than up during the pedal stroke it reduces strain on the Achilles tendon. This was the only way I could cycle for hours due to my Haglunds deformity and thus the tendon irritation...
Hi John . I have knee and achilles tendon pain in my left leg . I watched tones of video about bike fit, did a lot of changes with hight of seatpost , my cleat position, but no luck. I just trying to adapt to my left achilles tendon pain in during whole bike season. Any advices? Thanks. Roman
Hey John, think I was one of the ones asking you about this. Seems like the ankle isn't adding any force to the pedal stroke, as in you're not flexing down at all through the power phase. Seems more like you're creating a platform to transfer the power from your legs to the pedal. Does that sound about right?
Knee pain generally happens when there's bad alignment in the joint; i;e; if you're pedalling with your knee facing outward, introducing twisting in the knee joint. Keep your knee directly in line with your foot at all times.
Pulling on the back stroke works for me in TT efforts when using a bigger gear, keeps momentum going. Pulling up out of the saddle helps too. To each his own i guess.
Your videos are helpful and entertaining, thanks for the great content. Would love to hear your thoughts on the specialized power saddle. I have found it is the best saddle on the market for road bikes with a large drop from saddle to bar. It's probably the greatest saddle in the history of cycling IMO....for an aggressive riding position that is.
IdontAlwaysCommentBut WhenIdoYouLikeit I like that saddle fine....it's actually similar to a number of saddles that have been on the market a lot longer, Specialized just gave it an aesthetically but not functionally different shape. I'll see what I can work up as far as a video to explore this
I disagree with the not pulling up on the up-stoke, I must have been peddling wrong all my life, but I decided to try to consciously pull up on the upstroke, this action took the weight off the dead leg but not off the live leg, and it made the peddling a lot easier, even on my exercise bike I can turn the resistance up and still handle it
When you climb a ladder, don't pull your foot up onto the next rung.... LOL . This vid is bollox. Pull your foot up to the top of the circle and then pull the femur down with the butt, as if you were climbing a ladder to the handlebars. The quads will help by extending the leg at the knee. The calves keep the ankle from flopping. The lower leg stabilises the foot. Soon, you will be 'riding on the rivet' and doing a fair impersonation of Eddy Merckx, or Mark Cavendish in his sprint.
*Great **Latest.Bike** , good looking, good suspension and love the gearing. I've tested some bikes that were more then twice the price but not as good. Get lots of looks when riding.*
Dude, you are a total stud. You are one of the only guys with the correct understanding of conscious doing vs letting the pedal stroke happen. Very good. Keep it up.
I've been able to accelerate to the tune of two hundred watts faster if I pull up on my pedals as well as push down, so it clearly works--at least for me.
Your focus should be on kneeing up towards handlebars but trying to actually pull back as you push down on the other side is asking for problems .... there are so many professionals out there that used to think doing a smooth circle is what mattered, however recently everyone pushes their saddle forward because they want to apply the most power and only focus on pushing down and not back. If you put saddle back you engage hamstrings more and that’s fine, it does help. That should be done naturally on the back of ur stroke.
Downside of totally forward is moving center of mass.
When I pull up on the back stroke I feel like my other leg muscles are resting, that's why I sometimes do it.
hornetluca Totally understand...kind of the equivalent of standing up occasionally on a climb. Technically seated climbing is supposed to be more efficient but brief periods of standing work the muscles in a different range and can minimize fatigue (including central fatigue). Neither are a great long term or consistent technique, is my main point. Thanks for watching!
I find it easer to climb when pulling up on the back stroke.
@@bikefitadviser7012 9l
Quick question, Does having toes down rather then toes up during the pushing phase in pedaling could cause knee pain? Also does pedaling technique affect the saddle height?
I do wonder about ankle position and pull up and you've just stopped me wondering it cheers!
ironman tooltime Glad it helped....thanks for watching!
I have always thought that the phrase "pulling up on the pedal stroke" was ambiguous. When people say they are pulling up on the pedal stroke do they actually mean they are exerting a vertically UP force on the pedal? I don't think so. At least not for more than a couple seconds. What I think they are saying is that they are pulling up with their muscles enough so that their foot is not pushing down significantly on the pedal due to the weight of their leg (which is not insignificant). This reduces the negative "bad" torque on the crank by the rising leg. When I try to pedal as SMOOTHLY as possible, I do use the muscles in my rising leg so that the rising foot pushes down on the pedal as little as possible. But, I never actually pull up on the pedal. None of this is to say that in mad sprint by professionals they don't actually pull up on the pedals. They do. In fact, veledrome racers strap their feet to the pedals so they don't unclip on the upstroke.
Decades ago, I was taught to think of pedaling in circles, and I try to accomplish this by pushing down then dragging backwards, just through the dreaded dead spot. I don't actually know what my ankles are doing; as long as I'm turning circles, it's doing what it should be doing, right?
I have severe arthritis in my feet & ankles & was hoping buying an e-bike would help but I seem to be in a lot of pain after biking. Obviously I’m doing something wrong.
i scrap pedal forward/backward a lot that from my accelerate from a stop measurement, i think i put more power when crank at top and bottom than when the crank are at 90 degree. It's like push down phrase there is only one leg at work since another leg is going up. While at top and bottom both legs are at work one push forward another pull backward.
Another note is my ankle is almost level (but still a tiny bit toe down) throughout the entire pedal stroke it doesn't really moving. Should i have some check? or if it doesn't cause me a problem then it's good?
I have a question. I'm planning on buying shorter, 165mm cranks on both my MTB and my road bike(both have 175mm cranks on now). The sram NX would have a q-factor of 168mm, but the Shimano 105 crank has 146mm q-factor. Is it worth changing to non-series cranks that are 4mm wider (150mm, and 200g heavier-non-hollow crank arms) so my two bikes would be closer to each other in terms of the q-factor?
Don't overlook the F, M and T factors. Those are really more important!
Great video! I’m going to be replacing my crank as part of a larger upgrade. I was already planning on going from 175 to 172.5, but in another video you meantion that this is a negligible difference. I’ve noticed that my foot is very flat across the top of my pedal stroke and am wondering if going to a 170 crank would be smarter. The rest of my fit seems pretty dialed in.
Well, the newest New Age American hipster fad is going to 165's. Really. 165's...... Wutta great New Age American hipster idea. Throw out everything that is traditional, proven, in fact superior of the past and embrace THE NEW, just for the sake of, that's right...., THE NEW...... Cling to every New Age American hipster fad! Make sure you're seated way forward and spin, spin, spin. Spinning is so NOW, too.........
Great stuff! Do you have any tips in regards to Achilles pain and pedal stroke?
Would like to get some respond to this
From my experience if you keep your toes down rather than up during the pedal stroke it reduces strain on the Achilles tendon. This was the only way I could cycle for hours due to my Haglunds deformity and thus the tendon irritation...
Hi John . I have knee and achilles tendon pain in my left leg . I watched tones of video about bike fit, did a lot of changes with hight of seatpost , my cleat position, but no luck. I just trying to adapt to my left achilles tendon pain in during whole bike season. Any advices?
Thanks.
Roman
Achilles tendon pain can be a symptom of:
- cleats too far forward
- saddle too high
Hey John, think I was one of the ones asking you about this. Seems like the ankle isn't adding any force to the pedal stroke, as in you're not flexing down at all through the power phase. Seems more like you're creating a platform to transfer the power from your legs to the pedal. Does that sound about right?
Dave Hughes Spot on, I'd say.
I here coz im trying to find solutions for my knee pain just on my left side
Knee pain generally happens when there's bad alignment in the joint; i;e; if you're pedalling with your knee facing outward, introducing twisting in the knee joint. Keep your knee directly in line with your foot at all times.
Pulling on the back stroke works for me in TT efforts when using a bigger gear, keeps momentum going. Pulling up out of the saddle helps too. To each his own i guess.
Totally works. Adds more power. I get an extra 200 watts out of my sprint when I pull up as well as push down.
Your videos are helpful and entertaining, thanks for the great content. Would love to hear your thoughts on the specialized power saddle. I have found it is the best saddle on the market for road bikes with a large drop from saddle to bar. It's probably the greatest saddle in the history of cycling IMO....for an aggressive riding position that is.
IdontAlwaysCommentBut WhenIdoYouLikeit I like that saddle fine....it's actually similar to a number of saddles that have been on the market a lot longer, Specialized just gave it an aesthetically but not functionally different shape. I'll see what I can work up as far as a video to explore this
I disagree with the not pulling up on the up-stoke, I must have been peddling wrong all my life, but I decided to try to consciously pull up on the upstroke, this action took the weight off the dead leg but not off the live leg, and it made the peddling a lot easier, even on my exercise bike I can turn the resistance up and still handle it
Speed 1.5 is just right.
When you climb a ladder, don't pull your foot up onto the next rung.... LOL . This vid is bollox.
Pull your foot up to the top of the circle and then pull the femur down with the butt, as if you were climbing a ladder to the handlebars.
The quads will help by extending the leg at the knee.
The calves keep the ankle from flopping. The lower leg stabilises the foot.
Soon, you will be 'riding on the rivet' and doing a fair impersonation of Eddy Merckx, or Mark Cavendish in his sprint.
You took too long and seemed like you was struggling to answer a simple question
Yes incredibly boring; talking about obvious too much too slowly. Can people actual listen to this?