Hi Federico... just wanted to say thank you for your advice on bike position, cleats, saddles and seat height. I have been cycling Richmond park for 20 years or more and thanks to you have now found the right bike set-up for me! From lemond, to copying the pro positions (leading to massive back issues) I have followed your set-up and am now feeling more powerful and comfortable on all my bikes. A big thank you. :) keep up the good work... one small thing and all that. Duncan
Awesome information. Solved my question why I was slower than others. It was my saddle set too back! Thank Federico, your videos are practical and useful for average riders like us.
Nice explainations. You explained the reason why i couldn't engage my harmstrings when i was riding yesterday. My knee was too far back from the pedal axle, due to the fact that my saddle tube has an offset of 15 mm. So i swapped it with my moutain bike saddle tube that is straight and now it feels much better.
Thank you for your informative advise they are more pratical because I also adjusted my handle bar by bringing it up a bit and set my saddle back after adjusting my cleats backward and I am now much more comfortable on my bike which is a raleigh vintage bike which I will not get ride off to get a more morden bike for the sake of having a morden bike, to me it is about being in oneness with the bike.
I have always used my cleat as far forward as possible to stop toe overlap as well as I had it pushed back once to try and I did a trackstand and fell off (I got my toe stuck) 😅 I do natually prefer being toe down as well maybe came from my bmx days as with flat pedals when you want to generate the power you have to toe down and when bunnyhopping etc
Yes, toe overlap can be an inconvenience, but you can learn how to manage or avoid and after a while it becomes second nature. I would rather have to deal with that than use a forward cleat position. I believe there is no comparison in the power transfer you can generate. I suspect on flat pedals you point the toe down to grab the pedal and apply the power from 5pm to 7pm of the stroke, when on cleats you are also pointed down but at that stage you are recruiting the hamstrings. The key is when you push down hard from 2pm to 5pm you need a stable platform and a locked ankle, best achieved with rear positioned cleats.
Interesting, I hadn't given it much thought, but my bike fitter put my saddle further forwards and my cleats backwards and I went up about 40W on Zwift, huge difference. Real world strava segment times and average speed way up too. Still not spinning out my 53-11 though, need to find another 40 from somewhere haha. Maybe actually thinking about where I'm pushing will get me one step closer.
The thing is, it is not the hamstrings, it is that your butt muscles are better activated. I only drive with flat pedals and if i'm too far back, only my quads get sore. In the right position all power is evenly distributed between my calves, quads, and butt. They get sore at the same time and the same intensity. Thats most optimal for my power.
Another thought provoking video! I need my seat rearwards on a setback seat post, moving my centre of gravity rearwards in order to offload weight from my hands. Power is optimised when all facets of fit is correct. A power meter really highlights pedalling technique,as you can analyse toque effectiveness, and pedal smoothness…
Interesting, I found that on both the Canyon and the Merida I needed little to no setback to get to the best power position, more centered on the bottom bracket. At the same time I'm using a 12cm stem and I naturally rotate the pelvis forward, that's maybe why I can be in that position and not overload the hands.
@@fede1275 having a more slender upper body, and no tummy helps no doubt! As a reference I use 270mm long saddle, a seat height of 745mm ( measured 120mm forward from the rear of the saddle) and the tip is 85mm behind the bottom bracket, with 25mm setback, and a 73 degree seat angle…..
Years ago I trained one or two weeks using only the smaller chainring with a smaller rear sprocket. The smaller chainring will diminish your downstroke effort and demand a more swiping and circular effort. When I returned to the big chainwheel again I was much faster because the smaller chainring changed my pedaling style. I think the reason why I never belonged to the fastest riders was that I didn't use that stationary which delivers a constant pedal resistance. You need a real mountain or at least a roller trainer to make the real gains.
Aloha, thanks again for the jersey really looking forward to wearing it! I agree with you on the cleat position. I also found I had better performance numbers with my cleat like that and it was actually easier on my bad knee for some reason, so I kept it like that. The only drawback is I have big feet and with my frame size I get toe overlap but not a problem since I'm aware of it. Great explanation of the different pedaling techniques with regards to the cleat position. 🤙
Thank you and well done on the giveaway!! I hope you get it very soon. Yes, toe overlap is a downside of that position, but as you mentioned you can get used to it.
With cleats far back your foot is more stable, so also your knee works better. Just look how kids are pedalling - they push with the foot arch - that's the most powerful and stable foot position on the pedal. That's why in tri competition or for long distance ride that position is very comfortable.
Hello Federico!! I’m an American 🇺🇸 expat living here in N.E. Italy 🇮🇹 and rediscovered my passion for bikes as a 38yr old in 2017. 5yrs later I have 5 bikes, am an avid watcher of Hambini and Peak Torque b/c I wanted MAXIMUM VALUE at a FAIR PRICE for nike gear…GCN and Road CC are nice but too much propaganda….If you’re ever in FVG gimme a call!! We’ll go ride Zancolan!!
I can only push the cleats back 5-10mm. Anything more and there will be toe overlap. If i push the cleats back, i would need to lower the saddle a bit right? How many mm would you need to lower the saddle for every 5mm of cleat adjustment?
I think it's better to position the cleats correctly against toe overlap. You can learn to avoid touching the wheel, but pushing with the most efficient cleat position it's more important. I have a video just on cleats, yes you might need to lower the saddle. I don't know the exact ratio, you would need to go lower and raise a little bit until you find you lose some pressure from the bottom of the shoe and then lower a tiny bit.
@@fede1275 Thanks. I will experiement with saddle height and adjust it bit by bit. I need to anyway since the new shoe has thinner sole compared to the old shoe.
Feel like my hobby is trying to find perfect position to squeeze out every ounce of power. Watch every fitters videos and no one simplifies a fit like this. Just want ed to say thank you
Federico, if you moved your cleats all the way back - how does your knee position refer to pedal spindle now? You don't bother any KOPS, I guess. Do you still have the same distance BB-top of the saddle (I reckon that moving the cleats all the way back changes that distance, so I suppose you had to move your saddle up and forward).
Yes, I don't follow KOPS as I believe it's a limited measure. It is affected by how forward you seat and yes, my saddle is inline with the seat tube (no setback). This way I seat in a forward position with more rotated pelvis. This way I do not push vertically, but towards the back. It's like I'm KOPS if you rotate the plumb line angle from zero to 10 degrees clockwise (if that makes sense).
@@fede1275 Understood. Thank you for your response. Looks like you're "running" on your bike now. With cleats far back you also save your calf muscles and the feet feel more stable on the pedal. I was wondering how that power position affect overall body balance because it seems, you have more body weight on your hands and body mass center is more forward. I find this position much better also when I mount time trial bars on my road bar. Pelvis more rotated, much easier to lean forward and keep all the body in aero position. And what is important, my knees do not suffer a lot :)
@@jacekratajczyk2583 absolutely, exactly how you described it. I don't have more weight on the handlebar, my saddle allows forward rotation of the pelvis without the need to point it down, helping with weight balance. Correct height also helps.
I still believe that the book puts too much emphasis on the downstroke and doesn't focus enough on the hamstrings activation on the pedal travel from 5pm to 7pm. I found that best explained by Neill Stanbury on Cam Nicholls' channel and definitely the best power position for me. Focusing on the downstroke only could in my opinion lead to a saddle that is too high and to a loss of power if the hamstrings are not engaged on the bottom travel of the pedal.
Find for yourself, like Hinault, Indurain,Anquetil,Boonen,Lemond, Armstrong JF Bernard, Bauer,Coppi,Jalabert ,Koblet,Vanloy,Van Impe,Cippolini,Sagan. Look be yourself we are all efficient in ours own styles ,like walking some are more elegant than others, pedaling is the same ,and stop believing thoses self called specialyst of the Rufier technic or else ! And if you don't believe me, then just try to imitate my style, all my cycling buddies says that i'm so elegant !!!!!😊
Fede. The little model man appears and even the magic orange Arrow but where were your LEGO characters. Given the start of the Tour in Denmark and the originality of LEGO on the first Tour de France rest day its a missed marketing opportunity ! You need more sponsorship! Useful info on the video Thanks. As many big fitters will tell you, if you set your cleats as far back as possible on the shoe ... you can do no harm. More LEGO men on LEGO bikes wearing helmets and cleats please. You can even paint them all black to match your clothing and your bike ....
Dopo anni che pedalo ancora vado a tentativi per i vari parametri di posizione senza trovare la quadra.Dopo aver visto il tuo video, lascia che ti dica che trovo molto convincenti i tuoi ragionamenti e proverò ad applicarli.Grazie!!!
Ti ringrazio, io cerco di applicare buon senso ed esperienza in altri sport. Mi sembra che troppo spesso girano da sempre gli stessi consigli, ripetuti forse in maniera automatica senza troppa critica.
@@fede1275 concordo in pieno,troppi dogmi e poco "empirismo",se mi passi il termine.Per quel che vale il mio parere, approcci come il tuo sono fondamentali.Grazie ancora 👍
Hi Federico, Thanks for posting this very interesting vid. I'm not a bike fitter but very interested in the human-bike interface. Mostly for improving my own performance and comfort on the bike. You have presented very well considered ideas in a very useful manner supported by good visuals. Thanks for posting this. And as I always say to you, next time you in San Francisco, we will go for ride. thanks.
This is a great video. I wish more people would think like this; in depth about how they interact mechanically with their bike. My thoughts on why the rearward cleat position works; when you have your cleat all the way forward, you must be biomechanically perfect. You need to be able to "stab" your foot into the pedal stroke at the exact perfect time and then use your calf to control your foot alllll the way around the stroke to the bottom, then turn off the calf to allow the foot to continue back to the top of the stroke. Oh, and all this has to happen subconsciously. The ones who you see most able to use this type of stroke are pros who are genetic freaks any, most of them with near perfect biomechanics and nervous systems. For the rest of us, moving the cleat back allows a much wider window to start your stroke. It's not a point, but a range. It also allows for people with more limited ankle range to still have a complete stroke. Finally, the calf has to activate/compensate less because your foot "lever" is shorter as you say. Something else to touch on is arch support. If you pronate in at all, it is almost impossible to generate an optimized pedal stroke as you are starting the downstroke twice: off the ball of your foot, then again a millisecond later off the arch tissue as it collapses to a greater or lesser degree. Very confusing pattern for your central nervous system to understand. Most people can clean that motion up for a few minutes, then revert back to the sloppy movement as they lose focus. Better to set up your foot in a good position to begin with
Great comment, especially on the arch support. This is something I'm considering especially from a cleat angle position perspective together with the legs and knees stance. Maybe some pros can use a forward cleat position with a perfect technique, but still I'm not sure if they could achieve the best power transfer as with a rear position. Thank you for your contribution.
If you want to make scientific experiment what muscles are crucial for generating power in your legs, then jump up into an air without moving your feet at all and without recruiting your calf muscles, and then jump up recruiting your feet and calf muscles. You will realise right away that feet and calf muscles are crucial for generating power! And now I see you running to make adjustments to your equipment so you utilise that important part of your leg for winning that race of your life in Hyde park.
Hi Federico... just wanted to say thank you for your advice on bike position, cleats, saddles and seat height. I have been cycling Richmond park for 20 years or more and thanks to you have now found the right bike set-up for me! From lemond, to copying the pro positions (leading to massive back issues) I have followed your set-up and am now feeling more powerful and comfortable on all my bikes. A big thank you. :) keep up the good work... one small thing and all that. Duncan
Wow, I am incredibly proud I've been able to help!! Thank you for your message!
Another fantastic video Federico. Thank you for all you do to help us cyclists out.
Thank you so much for your support!! 😄
Great explanations! I'll have to take a look at the location of the cleats on my bike.
Check my dedicated video on cleats positioning!
@@fede1275 Shall definitely watch it--thanks!
Awesome information. Solved my question why I was slower than others. It was my saddle set too back! Thank Federico, your videos are practical and useful for average riders like us.
I'm so happy to hear that!! Thank you for the feedback!
I found the best way to buy speed was loosing weight it’s much cheaper and the gains are huge. Thanks for another great video
I know, but it's not that easy 😅. And lighter with good technique it's even better!!
Nice explainations. You explained the reason why i couldn't engage my harmstrings when i was riding yesterday. My knee was too far back from the pedal axle, due to the fact that my saddle tube has an offset of 15 mm. So i swapped it with my moutain bike saddle tube that is straight and now it feels much better.
Well done, it's nice to do some changes and see you improved!
Thank you for your informative advise they are more pratical because I also adjusted my handle bar by bringing it up a bit and set my saddle back after adjusting my cleats backward and I am now much more comfortable on my bike which is a raleigh vintage bike which I will not get ride off to get a more morden bike for the sake of having a morden bike, to me it is about being in oneness with the bike.
👍👍
I have always used my cleat as far forward as possible to stop toe overlap as well as I had it pushed back once to try and I did a trackstand and fell off (I got my toe stuck) 😅 I do natually prefer being toe down as well maybe came from my bmx days as with flat pedals when you want to generate the power you have to toe down and when bunnyhopping etc
Yes, toe overlap can be an inconvenience, but you can learn how to manage or avoid and after a while it becomes second nature. I would rather have to deal with that than use a forward cleat position. I believe there is no comparison in the power transfer you can generate. I suspect on flat pedals you point the toe down to grab the pedal and apply the power from 5pm to 7pm of the stroke, when on cleats you are also pointed down but at that stage you are recruiting the hamstrings. The key is when you push down hard from 2pm to 5pm you need a stable platform and a locked ankle, best achieved with rear positioned cleats.
Great technical idea! I haven't thought of this, i do feel like I'm pushing forward a bit at first on the down stroke, I'm going to adjust, grazie!
Let me know how you find it if you change!
Interesting, I hadn't given it much thought, but my bike fitter put my saddle further forwards and my cleats backwards and I went up about 40W on Zwift, huge difference. Real world strava segment times and average speed way up too. Still not spinning out my 53-11 though, need to find another 40 from somewhere haha. Maybe actually thinking about where I'm pushing will get me one step closer.
Great, nice to hear your findings are very similar. 53-11 it is hard, I am only on 52-11... for now, and the pros are on 54-11!!
The thing is, it is not the hamstrings, it is that your butt muscles are better activated. I only drive with flat pedals and if i'm too far back, only my quads get sore. In the right position all power is evenly distributed between my calves, quads, and butt. They get sore at the same time and the same intensity. Thats most optimal for my power.
@@JeyDeee89 could also be. Now I'm focusing more on the ankle stability to see if I'm in the right position to develop the best power
Another thought provoking video! I need my seat rearwards on a setback seat post, moving my centre of gravity rearwards in order to offload weight from my hands.
Power is optimised when all facets of fit is correct.
A power meter really highlights pedalling technique,as you can analyse toque effectiveness, and pedal smoothness…
Interesting, I found that on both the Canyon and the Merida I needed little to no setback to get to the best power position, more centered on the bottom bracket. At the same time I'm using a 12cm stem and I naturally rotate the pelvis forward, that's maybe why I can be in that position and not overload the hands.
@@fede1275 having a more slender upper body, and no tummy helps no doubt!
As a reference I use 270mm long saddle, a seat height of 745mm ( measured 120mm forward from the rear of the saddle) and the tip is 85mm behind the bottom bracket, with 25mm setback, and a 73 degree seat angle…..
Years ago I trained one or two weeks using only the smaller chainring with a smaller rear sprocket. The smaller chainring will diminish your downstroke effort and demand a more swiping and circular effort.
When I returned to the big chainwheel again I was much faster because the smaller chainring changed my pedaling style.
I think the reason why I never belonged to the fastest riders was that I didn't use that stationary which delivers a constant pedal resistance.
You need a real mountain or at least a roller trainer to make the real gains.
Aloha, thanks again for the jersey really looking forward to wearing it! I agree with you on the cleat position. I also found I had better performance numbers with my cleat like that and it was actually easier on my bad knee for some reason, so I kept it like that. The only drawback is I have big feet and with my frame size I get toe overlap but not a problem since I'm aware of it. Great explanation of the different pedaling techniques with regards to the cleat position. 🤙
Thank you and well done on the giveaway!! I hope you get it very soon. Yes, toe overlap is a downside of that position, but as you mentioned you can get used to it.
With cleats far back your foot is more stable, so also your knee works better. Just look how kids are pedalling - they push with the foot arch - that's the most powerful and stable foot position on the pedal. That's why in tri competition or for long distance ride that position is very comfortable.
It is probably better on your knee b/c it’s a more natural movement ~ Congratulations for winning!!
YES!!! I have felt the difference. I concur
👍👍
Funny but informative. Great info for us guys in the 50s who love to ride but trying to find the right techniques. 🤙👊
Thank you, there's no age limit for the pursue of power and technique 😄😄
Sounds right, Federico!
Hello Federico!! I’m an American 🇺🇸 expat living here in N.E. Italy 🇮🇹 and rediscovered my passion for bikes as a 38yr old in 2017. 5yrs later I have 5 bikes, am an avid watcher of Hambini and Peak Torque b/c I wanted MAXIMUM VALUE at a FAIR PRICE for nike gear…GCN and Road CC are nice but too much propaganda….If you’re ever in FVG gimme a call!! We’ll go ride Zancolan!!
That would be great, thank you!
Thank you very much for your valued information
👍👍
Sei il top, bella spiegazione 💪👍👏 thank you
@@74CJ. grazie mille!!
I can only push the cleats back 5-10mm. Anything more and there will be toe overlap. If i push the cleats back, i would need to lower the saddle a bit right? How many mm would you need to lower the saddle for every 5mm of cleat adjustment?
I think it's better to position the cleats correctly against toe overlap. You can learn to avoid touching the wheel, but pushing with the most efficient cleat position it's more important. I have a video just on cleats, yes you might need to lower the saddle. I don't know the exact ratio, you would need to go lower and raise a little bit until you find you lose some pressure from the bottom of the shoe and then lower a tiny bit.
@@fede1275 Thanks. I will experiement with saddle height and adjust it bit by bit. I need to anyway since the new shoe has thinner sole compared to the old shoe.
Feel like my hobby is trying to find perfect position to squeeze out every ounce of power. Watch every fitters videos and no one simplifies a fit like this. Just want ed to say thank you
Thank you 😄
Thank you! Great information
👍 👍
I agree I have moved into aggressive position and increased my average speed🇮🇸👍🏻
Could you show the backwards clets
6:41 like here?
I'll do an all out sprint to test this.
Let me know
Federico, if you moved your cleats all the way back - how does your knee position refer to pedal spindle now? You don't bother any KOPS, I guess. Do you still have the same distance BB-top of the saddle (I reckon that moving the cleats all the way back changes that distance, so I suppose you had to move your saddle up and forward).
Yes, I don't follow KOPS as I believe it's a limited measure. It is affected by how forward you seat and yes, my saddle is inline with the seat tube (no setback). This way I seat in a forward position with more rotated pelvis. This way I do not push vertically, but towards the back. It's like I'm KOPS if you rotate the plumb line angle from zero to 10 degrees clockwise (if that makes sense).
@@fede1275 Understood. Thank you for your response. Looks like you're "running" on your bike now. With cleats far back you also save your calf muscles and the feet feel more stable on the pedal. I was wondering how that power position affect overall body balance because it seems, you have more body weight on your hands and body mass center is more forward. I find this position much better also when I mount time trial bars on my road bar. Pelvis more rotated, much easier to lean forward and keep all the body in aero position. And what is important, my knees do not suffer a lot :)
@@jacekratajczyk2583 absolutely, exactly how you described it. I don't have more weight on the handlebar, my saddle allows forward rotation of the pelvis without the need to point it down, helping with weight balance. Correct height also helps.
Learn cycling and Italian... all in one video 😀👍
Great video again, thank you!
Thank you for watching 👍👍
As an italian cyclist you dont use sidi shoes??
Maybe if I were 65Kg and slender!
@@fede1275 I am 86kg and have the sidi wire 2. Very stiff shoe in my opinion.
@@911norman are they not slim fitting? I chose Shimano has they have a wide fit, even the standard ones (not wide fit).
@@fede1275 I dont know. I guess you just have to try them out.
I remember reading as per your advice “The midlife cyclist”. How do you reconcile these two pedaling techniques?
I still believe that the book puts too much emphasis on the downstroke and doesn't focus enough on the hamstrings activation on the pedal travel from 5pm to 7pm. I found that best explained by Neill Stanbury on Cam Nicholls' channel and definitely the best power position for me. Focusing on the downstroke only could in my opinion lead to a saddle that is too high and to a loss of power if the hamstrings are not engaged on the bottom travel of the pedal.
Thanks, makes sense now
Find for yourself, like Hinault, Indurain,Anquetil,Boonen,Lemond, Armstrong JF Bernard, Bauer,Coppi,Jalabert ,Koblet,Vanloy,Van Impe,Cippolini,Sagan. Look be yourself we are all efficient in ours own styles ,like walking some are more elegant than others, pedaling is the same ,and stop believing thoses self called specialyst of the Rufier technic or else ! And if you don't believe me, then just try to imitate my style, all my cycling buddies says that i'm so elegant !!!!!😊
This is very informative
I'm glad you enjoyed it!
Interessante. Grazie e saluti a te e al freccione!
Grazie mille!
Excellent vid ✊🏾
Thank you 👍👍
Awesomeness
😄😄
Fede. The little model man appears and even the magic orange Arrow but where were your LEGO characters. Given the start of the Tour in Denmark and the originality of LEGO on the first Tour de France rest day its a missed marketing opportunity ! You need more sponsorship! Useful info on the video Thanks. As many big fitters will tell you, if you set your cleats as far back as possible on the shoe ... you can do no harm. More LEGO men on LEGO bikes wearing helmets and cleats please. You can even paint them all black to match your clothing and your bike ....
You are right, I will need to get the LEGO out soon!!! Thank you.
Dopo anni che pedalo ancora vado a tentativi per i vari parametri di posizione senza trovare la quadra.Dopo aver visto il tuo video, lascia che ti dica che trovo molto convincenti i tuoi ragionamenti e proverò ad applicarli.Grazie!!!
Ti ringrazio, io cerco di applicare buon senso ed esperienza in altri sport. Mi sembra che troppo spesso girano da sempre gli stessi consigli, ripetuti forse in maniera automatica senza troppa critica.
@@fede1275 concordo in pieno,troppi dogmi e poco "empirismo",se mi passi il termine.Per quel che vale il mio parere, approcci come il tuo sono fondamentali.Grazie ancora 👍
That's it.. Lycra on time to test 😂
For those who don't know, the UAE rider showing his cleat is pro Tadey Pogacar, 2-time Tour de France winner and one of the premier riders today.
I can trust his judgement on the cleats then!
@@fede1275 Ha! Indeed
The only way to buy speed is if it has flames painted on it. Flames = speed/power 😅
I should try the flames 😂😂
thnx for your videos btw
Hi Federico,
Thanks for posting this very interesting vid. I'm not a bike fitter but very interested in the human-bike interface. Mostly for improving my own performance and comfort on the bike. You have presented very well considered ideas in a very useful manner supported by good visuals. Thanks for posting this.
And as I always say to you, next time you in San Francisco, we will go for ride. thanks.
Thank you so much, it would definitely be my pleasure!!
This is a great video. I wish more people would think like this; in depth about how they interact mechanically with their bike.
My thoughts on why the rearward cleat position works; when you have your cleat all the way forward, you must be biomechanically perfect. You need to be able to "stab" your foot into the pedal stroke at the exact perfect time and then use your calf to control your foot alllll the way around the stroke to the bottom, then turn off the calf to allow the foot to continue back to the top of the stroke. Oh, and all this has to happen subconsciously. The ones who you see most able to use this type of stroke are pros who are genetic freaks any, most of them with near perfect biomechanics and nervous systems. For the rest of us, moving the cleat back allows a much wider window to start your stroke. It's not a point, but a range. It also allows for people with more limited ankle range to still have a complete stroke. Finally, the calf has to activate/compensate less because your foot "lever" is shorter as you say.
Something else to touch on is arch support. If you pronate in at all, it is almost impossible to generate an optimized pedal stroke as you are starting the downstroke twice: off the ball of your foot, then again a millisecond later off the arch tissue as it collapses to a greater or lesser degree. Very confusing pattern for your central nervous system to understand. Most people can clean that motion up for a few minutes, then revert back to the sloppy movement as they lose focus. Better to set up your foot in a good position to begin with
Great comment, especially on the arch support. This is something I'm considering especially from a cleat angle position perspective together with the legs and knees stance.
Maybe some pros can use a forward cleat position with a perfect technique, but still I'm not sure if they could achieve the best power transfer as with a rear position. Thank you for your contribution.
Dylan Johnson did a great video on this, citing dozens of scientific articles. You should check it out.
Will do, he always does interesting videos!
If you want to make scientific experiment what muscles are crucial for generating power in your legs, then jump up into an air without moving your feet at all and without recruiting your calf muscles, and then jump up recruiting your feet and calf muscles. You will realise right away that feet and calf muscles are crucial for generating power! And now I see you running to make adjustments to your equipment so you utilise that important part of your leg for winning that race of your life in Hyde park.
Time for another raffle in 2023
Sure, need to think of a new one soon