1.6HDi/TDCi acceptable turbo shaft play (Peugeot/Citroen/Ford/Volvo/Mini/Mazda3/Suzuki)
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- Опубліковано 17 тра 2019
- Are you worried your turbo might be on the way out? This is how to check. I will show you what is an acceptable radial and axial turbo shaft play in the 1.6HDi and 1.6TDCi engines. This is applicable to Peugeot, Citroen, Ford, Volvo, Mini, Mazda 3, etc.
Some radial play is acceptable with no axial play.
Car is Peugeot Partner 2007, 90,000 miles or ~145,000 km, no fap/dpf, 90bhp, original garrett turbo.
#HDi #TurboFailure #HDiTurbo
Disclaimer:
Use the information provided in this video at Your Own Risk. More molecules provides this video for informational purposes only and assumes no liability for any damage or loss incurred as a result of the use of the information or tools presented in this video. The information provided here may contain inaccuracies and more molecules cannot guarantee the correctness or reliability of the content. - Авто та транспорт
Bingo, what a wonderful log. Been searching this out there for eons, finally someone did it. Thank you so much.
thanks for your video i have no experience of what is normal but i am glad i viewed this before inspecting my tucbocharger - i would have been very alarmed at that radial play when i would have expected it to be neglible in a good unit. every day a school day!
nicely done!!
Ok thanks! I just got a big sigh of relief. Just got new turbos, and there's no in-and-out play, but the slight side-to-side play scared me.
hi thanks for this video, it really helped me, when i checked this there was quite a lot of oil in the pipe which goes to turbo from air filter, do you know why this is please
This is generally normal, of course it depends on how much. Generally the PCV valve will spew some oil vapor and some actual oil in the air intake going to the turbo. This is to relieve pressure inside of the engine. I would only worry if the engine is burning too much oil, then this might be too much blow-by from worn engine.
consider that the oil pressure once the engine is rotating will center the shaft.
Yes, thank you for the comment. I have not thought about that, but yes it will centre it.
That is good info, my turbo has more or less the same movement. Im wondering if you have the size of the membrane inside the pcv valve and the procedure for dissasembly. It's very diffcult to find in my country and the entire piece is to expensive. Thanks.
Thanks for the heads up. The PCV membrane is exactly 5cm outside diameter with the lip being 2mm. I have a video of how I replaced it: ua-cam.com/video/B4R7Mi1RcEQ/v-deo.html , but I was not really successful at all. I broke nearly all plastic holder things. Somebody commented to get the engine hot or apply some heat to the pcv and/or apply silicone spray. I suspect with heat it may work. Good luck.
@@moremolecules thanks 4 ur answer. I am tracking the oil leak, i thougt was the cranckcase joint but was ok. The top of the engine is always with many oil, so i suspect that the pcv has some small holes thar let the oil steem blow out and condenses. Maybe the membrane is broken.
@@dieseltips That is possible, although the membrane is very sturdy. Wipe around and see where it is coming from. Also check if the spring is intact, looking from the crankcase breather.
Hi! With my car, there were leaks on the plastic manifold to head connection. There are rubber o rings- they start to leak. And after injectors being removed, the injectror bolts where they are screwed in head, were leaking. The best way to find a leak is to clean area with brake cleaner and later on watch, where oil will apear. @@dieseltips
@@tadejmiklavcic454 thanks for the tip. I found an used valves cover, but the membrane was also damaged. I did succesfully removed the pcv cap, but I could not record the process in video, I took some pictures that I will put in a video later. I think the leak can also be for the plastic cover of the valves joint, I bought one, im going to make a video when I change, will be in spanish although.
I fitted the second hand turbo and only when I went to fit relised it had play in it, also washer behind vains exhaust side wasn't easy to get in right position
Now noise turbo and when revving pops and bangs
Taking Berlingo back to were i bought turbo (on a truck) so they can hear it running I don't want to drive it, also I've removed sump washed out don't want this turbo to break and have to do all again
And turbo had a tight spot once bolted in
Yeah, either the adjustment on the vanes is not quite right or something with the turbo, it hould not ptoduce a whine.
@@moremolecules replaced turbo with another today no problems no noise thanks very much for your advice and your videos you and your videos have been a great help especially the gause at oil pick up pipe
Stil saying anti poluction fault engine management light stil on but goes fine
@@adamwort7160 Sometimes if the wastegate is not connected or it has ruptured somewhere it will give anti-pollution warning. Also, it could also be the MAF sensor as well. Check if the wastegate is working alright: ua-cam.com/video/WLsMzdKgI1o/v-deo.html
For the maf, it is difficult to know unless you have an obdii scanner or Diagbox. See if there are any errors.
I got 0.5mm axial play. Blue smoke at high revs, sometimes over revs.
Yeah, it might be leaking a bit of oil that turbo if it smokes at high rev and probably under acceleration as well.
Hellooo, hope you are having a nice day. I have a whining sound from turbo, which still lasts after 35.000km. i have no axial play, only little radial play, and also some burned oil next to top banjo bolt. It is like it spits air outside. Do you think i should change the turbo? Car doesnt smoke and it has power. Thank you!
I would not replace the turbo yet if I were you. You may want to tighten the banjo bolt a little bit. That should stop the oil coming out. Only a little bit should be enough
When l check it my car turbo there is oil and it is not moving do you think oil is normal? Thanks sharing videos ✌
Depends on when you check the turbo shaft play. If it is on a warm engine, there will be little play. It also depends on the state of the turbo and engine mileage of course. Little movement is good. Oil around turbo can come from two sources, one is the crankcase breather, which is normal. Second one is from the turbo itself, that is not good and I am yet to understand is little oil passing the seals is normal. Generally there will be oil from the crankcase breather around the turbo. Excessive amount is not too good. Check the crancase breather tube and you will see oil there or the air pipe going to the turbo.
Hi, I wonder if I should replace turbo in my peugeot 5008 1.6hdi - turbo charger doesn't have any radial play, but it does have axial play, plus all surrounding area is wet in oil - I've asked in service center, but they said "it's just getting sweated up and i should not worry too much about it" - I would rather prevent disaster replacing it too early than waiting for catastrophic failure - what is your opinion on this?
It really depends on the milleage and how much the play is. If it does not consume oil between oil changes, say you do not top too much oil in a year or ~10,000miles or -16,000km then it should still be alright. The surrounding area it is a bit difficult to know for certain without further investigation where it is coming from. It could be from the crankcase rather than the turbo. Does it blow blue smoke when you give it high rpm under load?
If oil changes are frequent (milleage and/or based on time, whichever comes first), then there is not much to worry about.
@@moremolecules Thanks! Car is used on longer trips (200km a trip, perhaps 2000km per month) and serviced as scheluded. Turbine looks oily from the intake and there are oily strains on wastegate servo and down the engine compartment. Air path after the turbo looks oily too down to air inlet into engine. If I had to say something about the amount of that axial play i would say that this is something between 1-3mm on cold engine. In the direction of air filter everything is oily too - I guess this is why you've installed oil catch can. I've already replaced air filter, fuel filter and egr valve that was giving me some error codes in that car and I don't really enjoy lack of space and access to anything. Heat plugs were replaced in the car shop, as I didn't feel like capable of doing this myself (due to very limited space and the placement of these plugs) and they destroyed some plastic covers in the process.
@@gyorka Yes, that is why I installed an oil catch can. In general you would get a bit of oil from the crankcase and everything down from that (turbo, intercooler, etc.) will have oil film. Air will flow from the filter to the turbo, so even if the turbo spews a bit of oil it will not go towards the air filter and air intake. It is likely that it comes from the crankcase. If it is dripping onto the wastegate, then see if the rubber seal is intact on the air intake to the turbo joint. These are prone to have splits and it will not seal properly, so air is not measured correctly. It could be that the CCV valve is ruptured, but that is a bit of a guess and it may not be the case. It could be that the engine is a bit worn (depends on milleage) and having a bit of excess breathing, so inevitable some oil will go from the crankcase to the turbo.
1-3mm is quite a bit, but depending on the engine (VNT vs. fixed geometry turbo) this might be alright. New turbo is a bit expensive and it depends on whether you plan on keeping the car a lot longer.
Regular oil changes, maybe a bit shorter interval is probably the best thing to do, unless you want to invest in a new turbo.
@@moremolecules I'll start with inspecting seals, as I don't know from where exacly this oil is leaking. It looks like top of the turbo is dry, where down part is dipping with oil. Perhaps oil return pipe or its sealing is somewhat damaged leading to this situation. Car has 250000km on its odometer and i belive this is correct. We use to have our cars till they start to rust, so I don't mind investing a bit of money into them. All I'm worried is miserable access to the heat shield bolts when replacing the cartridge, and from the experience with other cars we had everything takes much longer than planned, plus you often find yourself lacking some tool that is a game stopper untill it arrives or is made. I wonder if this could leak from the wastegate rod entrance downwards, but again. i'm in the office and car is several km away ;) I really apreciate all your work and videos on this channel - it was and continues to be valuable source of information
OK, so i've been able to take a closer look at this, and it seems that my trouble originated with oil supply pipe failure - it's quite loose on both ends and there is quite of a play at the visible end - banjo bolt is tightened, but the pipe itself is flapping loose in its ending piece. My asumption is that turbine cartridge got insufficient lubrication and axle worn out. I didn't dissasemble exhaust side, but what i've seen pushes me into replacing whole assembly rather than just the core cartridge - whole thing seems to be a bit more complicated than in your Partner, and buying parts separatly will be more expensive than getting replacement turbo. Hopefully this will be doable in a garage with trench. Thanks!
Hi, My vehicle has a DV6 Euro 4 engine, the turbo kicks in after 3000 rpm, and it remains very weak before this rpm. Why could this be?
Yeah, difficult to say, could be a little bit of stuck turbo solenoid at the back of the engine or vacuum loss to the wastegate or the wastegate is a little bit slipping vacuum. Try this: ua-cam.com/video/WLsMzdKgI1o/v-deo.html
That's alot of play . But if you say that's okay then I except your opinion. Thank you
THere need to be some tolerances for heat expansion contraction, hence there will always be some play. It cannot be super tight when cold and then when it heats up will expand and stop spinning from the friction.
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Check out my turbo at 270k miles. From what i’m hearing it’s still good?
ua-cam.com/video/74zUJv2ldJQ/v-deo.htmlsi=18DVdcA2fRZPgyo_
Looks good to me and well done to keeping it that good after so many miles.
@@moremolecules Thanks. I also put the mann provent 200 like you did and it really helps clean.
100% synthetic oil does the rest.