I bought a 21 M3 RWD in Jan of 2023 with 11k miles on it. Just before the huge price drops and the huge drops in the user car market. I so regret not waiting longer, a lot of depreciation obviously due to that. Anyway, the reason I'm posting is to share my experience. AT roughly 18k miles my screen got a message saying "maximum charge level and range may be reduced". I took it to the Service Center and they had to replace the battery. This happened last July, the car was with them for a week. I had a great experience though. They gave me an 18 model S as a loaner. A week doesn't seem to bad for them to order it, ship it and install it. The car now has 26k miles on it.
26k and a fresh battery! I feel you on the depreciation, though. That was an element of my buying decision. I was going to get a Bolt EV, but figured the Tesla would depreciate less and also be a lot more fun to drive. Definitely true on both counts.
A couple of questions about that battery. . . Did they give you a new battery or a refurbished battery? What's the warranty on the "new' battery? Did they give you any explanation for why the battery would fail so soon?
To fix the rear end clink/click when you take off, you just need the rear axles lubed and torqued. It's an inexpensive and simple repair that could be done whenever you get your PCS replaced.
Thanks for this. It's something I feel people getting into used Tesla Model 3's might be concerned with, so I really want it sorted. Guess I'll call Service and see what's up.
The advice I would give with anything electronic is that you should never run anything at 100% if you want it to last long. Flashlights, fans, TVs, phones etc... brightness levels, color levels, charge rates, speeds etc... when anything is run near maximum components will have a shorter thermal life for consumer products. Everything is built with a tight tolerance and to make it profitable. An EV is all electronics so I would be applying that thought process to everything I could. When the PCS is repaired I would limit charging amps to half to give it the best chance at not needed to be replaced ever again if supercharging a lot. It's probably healthier for the battery degradation to.
My 2019 M3P came with well-worn summer tires. It was still snowing in March when I bought the car. I had to be careful and the car was slipping around a bit on the icy roads. I had already budgeted for replacing the tires and went ahead with a full set of All Season tires within a week of getting the car. $1500 The biggest issue that came with the car was with the steering wheel. The material was starting to come off the wheel within a month of driving. The service center replaced the wheel with the newest M3 wheel under warranty and I haven't had problems with the new wheel. I have some self-inflicted damage to the rear bumper. I bought my kid a bycicle that didn't fit in the trunk. I decide to ride with the bike handles hanging out the back a little and the trunk open. It was about 5 miles. Enough for the bumps in the road to cause the bike to scratch up the bumper a little bit. It's not very noticable, but I know it's there. I had 2 different front passengers who stepped on the seat controls when they got into my car. Both times the controls broke. The first service repair for that was about $160, then second was $120 (prices had depreciated by the time of 2nd repair). When the service center replaced my steering wheel, they messed up the materials inside, up-front under the windshield and the glovebox was not aligned properly. I took the car back a couple weeks later to get those issues corrected. Mostly the used Tesla experience has been good for me. Though, for unrelated reasons, I do not intend to buy another Tesla when I purchase my next BEV. I have always bought my vehicles on the used market.
Thanks for sharing! I was lucky to have good tires on mine when I got it. Like you, I've only ever bought used cars. I'm enjoying this one, but also would like to change brands in the future.
After watching this video I'm fully convinced to buy m3p. There is nothing to spend on this car. I spend over 4k on my mk6 golf r a year , running stage 2 ecu and tcu tune , changed tranfer case, water pump, oil leak etc cos I'm sensitive to my car I want everything perfect. Since I realized how much power this m3p is making . I have been watching tones of videos to see if it has major maintenance issues. Thanks for this video
Maybe wait to fix the PCS thingy until the Tallahassee service center opens this summer. Heck more convenient than somehow getting the car to Jacksonville. Looks like the Superchargers on West Pensacola will be open in a few weeks - maybe. And they have started work on another new Supercharger location at a Circle-K on Thomasville Rd next to I-10. High times for Tesla owners in Tallahassee!
Oh, I hadn't heard about new Superchargers on Thomasville. I'll have to check those out. Waiting for the Tallahassee service center is a good idea, and as long as it doesn't fail before it opens, I'll probably do that.
@@DriveElectricWithDomenick There is a new 4-stall CCS charging spot at the SunSpot on US 90 exit on I-10. Currently free! I charged there today and got max speed of 189 kWh at 21%. Did I mention it’s free?
@@DriveElectricWithDomenick That's right, I forgot. Just as well. They rope you in with the free electrons to get you hooked, then they jack up the price.
Wait.... we're getting a service center here in Tallahassee?!?!?! I didn't know that. Bow I can cross one con off of my list with a Tesla. Seems like this is the right time to buy.
The clink sound might go away if you do the oil service on your Tesla. Yes Tesla have Oil and Oil Filters. It needs to be serviced or things will go bad and it will cost a lot of money to fix it.
I recently bought a used 2022 Tesla Model 3, and I love it. I have the RWD like you do. I would suggest the following: 1. A windshield repair company can probably fix the chip in your glass roof edge. 2. Make sure you get your tire fixed quickly because tires with leaks can lose all of their air in a couple of seconds and cause a wreck, tear up your tire and damage your rim. 3. Paint chips on a 2018 is understandable 4. I would also get the charging problem fixed as soon as possible. I wish you good luck with your Model 3.
@@AnonN-sr6uu Hello, I paid $22,900 before the $4,000 federal rebate. So the actual price I paid was $18,900 + $500.00 dealer fee (which every dealer seemed to charge) + tax and license. It came out to something close to $23,500 out the door..
@@AnonN-sr6uu 77,314 miles. That seems like a lot, but it is in immaculate condition. Also, Recurrent rates it at 95% of its original battery capacity. Recurrent is an app that tracks how many miles your Tesla can drive on each charge. Because it has LFP batteries, it loses far less of its original battery capacity than the NCM batteries that Tesla uses. The LFP batteries are very durable. I have a real-world range of 225 miles in temperate temperatures below 86 degrees F. It also loses 2-3 miles of range a day when it is parked. I think that is because it is connected to the Internet and it has a full-size computer inside that runs the car. If I were to drive its entire range all at once, I probably could get 240 -250 miles of range in combined city/highway driving, but I have never done that. Because it has maintained most of its battery capacity, its resale value is around $22,000 - $25,000, which is more than what I paid. I t really is a very comfortable, reliable car. Everything works. FSD works on the car really well (Tesla has given me two free months of FSD). The ride is firm but reasonably comfortable. It's quiet, except on rough roads which are rutted and worn (and all cars are noisy on those roads). It's way faster than about 95% of the cars on the road. I installed the Tesla Universal Wall Connector (commonly called a home charger) myself, and it works spectacularly well. It costs me about $7.75 to charge the car from 0 -100% at home, which is dirt cheap. The Tesla wall connector works just like the superchargers. It is effortless to charge my car. I will fully charge the car in a little over seven hours. The wall charger is shown on the Tesla app, and it shows it charging when it is in use. The Model 3 is easily the best car I have ever driven or owned. The used Model 3 cars save you about $15,000 off of the price of a new one. However, the new Long Range RWD Model 3 is probably the best Model 3 to buy right now even though it does not have LFP batteries. It has a huge 80kWh battery pack that gets 363 miles or real-world range, which is just phenomenal and right now, it costs $34,990 after the federal $7,500 rebate. You can use a referral to get an additional $1,000 off of the price, which brings it to $33,990 before dealer fees and tax and license. This is just a spectacularly low cost for the new Model 3. The NCM batteries will lose about 10-12% of their range over the first four years, but you will still have around 340 miles of real-world range, which is more than enough to travel the entire country easily.
Dom, we all know hindsight is 20-20. You didn't say if you bought the used model 3 from Tesla. Used Teslas CAN BE a good value, provided you do your homework. Tesla gives an extra year warranty once the original factory warranty expires. I would never buy any used car from a location where there is snow and road salt. Winters are just too hard on an EV, especially the battery. Good luck my friend. Hope things work out for you.
Use Dr Colorchip on the paint chips (don't use touch up paint). Local PDR shop for the ding. Any glass shop can repair that windsheild. Get a good INTERNAL patch on that tire and rotate the tires.
It is unfortunate used EV cars are not like ICE vehicles, when it comes to repairs or breakdowns. PCS modules on RWD use a non silicon carbide rectification, and prone to failure. Its possible it was charged at high currents with L2/L3 chargers frequently. Chips on bumpers are easy to fix, since it is plastic.Chip on rear glass can be fixed with uv resin, to almost invisible state. The nail on tire is an easy fix, since it is not on sidewall. Might need to check on battery health and maintenance done so far. Brake flush, brake service,coolant check topup, atf change, evaporator and radiator cleaning,cabin filter change etc.
I think my 2018 was starting to exhibit that AC charging issue just as I was getting rid of it. Seems fairly common, I have seen several people mention it. Also likely failures are the PTC cabin heater, and stuck valves in the coolant system (my bf's 2019 has this on occasion, and I think Kyle had the same problem on his). Bf's 2019 3 is also having what looks like screen delamination issues
Yeah, I'm wondering if my issue on the bottom left hand side of my screen was from a hit, or whether it's delamination. There were a couple very small pieces of glass that I removed from down there.
First of all, Dom, i enjoyed the video by the way you were narrating all your problems with a smile on your face. 😊 I have a 2018 M3 also with a slow leak, as far as the other issues go, I never tried to install a go pro or any other cameras on the 5+years i had this car. Maybe you should do a video of the car with what your find good about your M3.
Thank you and thanks also for the suggestion. I thought I had a "things I like" video on my list of ones to make, but not seeing it now. I've added it and will probably do soon, along with a 11-year of ownership update.
I bought it from a dealership in Illinois. Tesla used inventory prices are a bit high, but they come with a bit of warranty, at least. Here's the video where I go get it. ua-cam.com/video/HhYMs5n6gU0/v-deo.html
Dom check on your mcu screen looks like there might be a glass screen protector on there from previous owner that might come off. I had something similar on lower rt side like you and when I looked really close it was a thin glass screen protector I was able to kinda peel/lift it off.
@@DriveElectricWithDomenick Hey dom also check into electrified garage you may also find there prices are better despite maybe farther away from you might be worth it. Most of them are ex Tesla techs they will also use known good used parts on certain things
Do you think you'd still buy it again? Do you have a breakdown of the amount of hours and money it took to troubleshoot or resolve these issues? I have a 2017 Prius, runs like a champ, very low maintenance and cost me $12.5k used back in 2021 (worth more now because of inflation in 2024). Teslas are too high maintenance, and the time and frustration fixing these issues would be a huge problem.
I really enjoy the driving experience, so I would buy it again. I wish I could buy it at today's market prices, though. The used prices were still on the high side when I bought. I haven't fixed a lot of the issues. Some are just so small - like the small blemish on the back glass - that I don't think of them when I have free time. I don't see it as a high-maintenance vehicle. I basically just drive it. I never have to change the oil, or do that kind of ICE maintenance. I just plug it in occasionally and drive it. And, having a driven a new (base) Prius a couple weeks ago, I'd rather have a used Model 3 than a brand new Prius. Just a much better driving and software/feature experience.
@@DriveElectricWithDomenickInteresting. Thanks for sharing. I'd compare a used Prius to a used M3 for the most accurate cost-benefit analysis. 😉Tesla value has dropped like a hot rock in water, as we all know, while the Prius has held strong. I really look forward to seeing longterm reviews on these 2018 M3s compared to the 2017 Prius, for example. I'd reckon I'll see far more Prius on the road relative to the total amount sold in the US for each vehicle (between 2017 Prius and 2018 Model 3). That will be the best way to test total cost of ownership at 10 yrs (including time spent, gas/electricity costs, maintenance, part replacements, and initial MSRP). I'd reckon Tesla owners pay more upfront (higher MSRP) and more on the back end (higher out-of-warranty maintenance costs and time spent troubleshooting). I include time in total cost to own because I like filling up my tank in 5 mins and going instead of being tethered to the grid until an EV recharges. Time and freedom to move (away from the electrical grid) is a quantifiable value add to hybrid drivers that EV drivers cannot replicate at the moment.
@NovaPrincess Personally, I charge at home, so I save a ton of time never having to go to a gas station. I've road-tripped close to 20,000 miles in the past couple years, and never had any issue with being too far from the grid. It can take a little longer to roadtrip with an EV, but I much prefer it. Just a better driving experience, and that makes up for the extra bit of time some trips need.
Why is it out of warranty. It is a 2018. So you should have 2 years left. Unless it has over 100k miles. That’s exactly why I bought a 2021 so it will be under warranty for me
sheesh! We were thinking about replacing our ICE car with a Model 3, but being stranded at a charging station for 11 hours or something because your PCS shit the bed is a real concern. How common are those PCS problems?
Thanks for the video. The clink you might be hearing could be the brake caliper disengaging from when you go from Park to Drive and vice versa. You can have someone put it in and out of Park and listen to the caliper lock and unlock. I think think they need to be serviced every 15/20 thousand miles
Pretty sure it's not that. The clck doesn't necessarily happen right after the shift. It's really activated once a certain amount of torque is applied.
Dom, did you get an actual estimate from Tesla for the AC charging fix or are you just estimating? I don’t remember you saying. Maybe it’s a cheap fix.
I didn't have an "official" estimate (they charge for those), but the mobile tech gave me the price. I think it was 16-17 hundred. I say $2,000 because once you add tax and the cost to drive to Jacksonville and back, I figure it'll be about that much. I also inquired at a non-Tesla place that does this work, and it was a bit cheaper, and not a new part, so I think it makes sense to stick with Tesla service for the fix.
@petebremy49 not sure. The tech said they'd charge me to confirm the issue, which I guess technically isn't an estimate. I guess I should go back to that video and see if I explained it better
That level 2 charging issue sounds like a bit of a pain but may not be an issue depending on how far you regularly drive. You ought to bill that repair to Kyle at Out of Spec though. He found the car 😂. By the way, thanks for the Tallahassee landscape. I grew up there and went to Florida High. Haven’t been back in years though as my family moved when I went to college.
The slower A/C charging hasn't been a huge issue. There's only been a couple times over the course of the year when I wish I could have had a bit more power. Happy to share the Tallahassee area scenery! It's pretty nice down here. 🙂
@@DriveElectricWithDomenick Kind of ironic that Kyle found a Tesla for you that you can't charge at home yet he is a big advocate of home charging and leaving DC Fast Charging only for road trippers. On the flip side, you could have had the new Chevy Bolt you wanted that would have home charged with no issue but would have been a slow DC Fast Charger. Up in the Chicago area besides road salt there are also quite a few stone queries as well. A lot of dump trucks hauling rock that shoots out the back of the truck hitting the car bumper if following the truck too closely.
@@Joe3545u I can charge at home, no problem. It's just slower than it should be. For my use case, though, it's fast enough, which is why I haven't replaced the PCS yet.
I set my home charger to 16 amps all the time, slower is better, 2 years ownership on my EV-6 and no battery degradation, since new 80% chargers still shows 283 miles only charged 4 times in two years at a DC charger, just for the experience not a necessity. Put a decal over your damaged door panel and forget about it, replace the screen saver on your tablet, glass company to seal your rear glass, paint less dent remover guy for your dent, patch the tire and wrap the front end and wait until your backup noise can be duplicated every time so it can be properly diagnosed.
I thought the video was gonna be about something wrong with the Tesla itself because it was a Tesla. You should rename the video to be called what I didn’t see wrong when I purchased a used car. That would give people a better idea of what the video was actually about.
Honestly this is just a video complaining about a car :D Apart from the charging issue, which you knew about before you bought it, the rest are cosmetic. The "extra" problems are from you not inspecting the car fully before you purchased it but yeah. live and learn
Always patch from the inside, plugs are BS, makes the hole bigger and prone to fail and leak again, rarely can damage the tire belts. Also if you don't dismount the tire from the wheel you can miss hidden damage on the inside, exposed cords, shredded rubber, heat damage from riding low. Many chains are sticklers and will only fix holes in the center tread block and tell you anything else is "the shoulder" but worth a shot. We don't have them in NY but everyone is always recommending America's Tire out west. Looks fixable to me.
@InTheStreetztv_Reloaded I'm not complaining. Just pointing out what's wrong with this car so people shopping for a used one themselves have an idea what to look for. I love this car!
I’m gonna take a wild ass guess! You don’t have kids?? Because if you did the last thing on your list of things that aren’t quite right would be a lengthy description of paint chips on a six year old vehicle. I would say you are fortunate it is a Tesla because if it were say a BMW or like at six years and out of warranty you would be many thousands for things needing replaced or scheduled maintenance costs. 😊
@@DriveElectricWithDomenick I have a 2018 with 185k miles. My super charging hardware needed to be replaced but other than that car is still solid. Big brand tire will fix your nail tire for free FYI.
you should of got a tesla model s which is better build for high end customers, thus better quality, model 3 is cheaply made for little people , just like cheap $100 laptops which only lasts a year
There is a maintenance screen. That would probably be a good screen to check when buying used.
3:20 😊😊😊
I bought a 21 M3 RWD in Jan of 2023 with 11k miles on it. Just before the huge price drops and the huge drops in the user car market. I so regret not waiting longer, a lot of depreciation obviously due to that. Anyway, the reason I'm posting is to share my experience. AT roughly 18k miles my screen got a message saying "maximum charge level and range may be reduced". I took it to the Service Center and they had to replace the battery. This happened last July, the car was with them for a week. I had a great experience though. They gave me an 18 model S as a loaner. A week doesn't seem to bad for them to order it, ship it and install it. The car now has 26k miles on it.
26k and a fresh battery! I feel you on the depreciation, though. That was an element of my buying decision. I was going to get a Bolt EV, but figured the Tesla would depreciate less and also be a lot more fun to drive. Definitely true on both counts.
A couple of questions about that battery. . .
Did they give you a new battery or a refurbished battery?
What's the warranty on the "new' battery?
Did they give you any explanation for why the battery would fail so soon?
A new battery would be a plus. A reconditioned battery, not so much. Ive seen quite a few Tesla owners have their reconditioned battery die.
That’s the worst luck ever. Less than 5% of Tesla batteries have issues at all, and
To fix the rear end clink/click when you take off, you just need the rear axles lubed and torqued. It's an inexpensive and simple repair that could be done whenever you get your PCS replaced.
Thanks for this. It's something I feel people getting into used Tesla Model 3's might be concerned with, so I really want it sorted.
Guess I'll call Service and see what's up.
I hate all those little things no one else sees on the car but you know they're there.
The advice I would give with anything electronic is that you should never run anything at 100% if you want it to last long. Flashlights, fans, TVs, phones etc... brightness levels, color levels, charge rates, speeds etc... when anything is run near maximum components will have a shorter thermal life for consumer products. Everything is built with a tight tolerance and to make it profitable. An EV is all electronics so I would be applying that thought process to everything I could. When the PCS is repaired I would limit charging amps to half to give it the best chance at not needed to be replaced ever again if supercharging a lot. It's probably healthier for the battery degradation to.
My 2019 M3P came with well-worn summer tires. It was still snowing in March when I bought the car. I had to be careful and the car was slipping around a bit on the icy roads. I had already budgeted for replacing the tires and went ahead with a full set of All Season tires within a week of getting the car. $1500
The biggest issue that came with the car was with the steering wheel. The material was starting to come off the wheel within a month of driving. The service center replaced the wheel with the newest M3 wheel under warranty and I haven't had problems with the new wheel.
I have some self-inflicted damage to the rear bumper. I bought my kid a bycicle that didn't fit in the trunk. I decide to ride with the bike handles hanging out the back a little and the trunk open. It was about 5 miles. Enough for the bumps in the road to cause the bike to scratch up the bumper a little bit. It's not very noticable, but I know it's there.
I had 2 different front passengers who stepped on the seat controls when they got into my car. Both times the controls broke. The first service repair for that was about $160, then second was $120 (prices had depreciated by the time of 2nd repair).
When the service center replaced my steering wheel, they messed up the materials inside, up-front under the windshield and the glovebox was not aligned properly. I took the car back a couple weeks later to get those issues corrected.
Mostly the used Tesla experience has been good for me. Though, for unrelated reasons, I do not intend to buy another Tesla when I purchase my next BEV. I have always bought my vehicles on the used market.
Thanks for sharing!
I was lucky to have good tires on mine when I got it.
Like you, I've only ever bought used cars. I'm enjoying this one, but also would like to change brands in the future.
After watching this video I'm fully convinced to buy m3p. There is nothing to spend on this car. I spend over 4k on my mk6 golf r a year , running stage 2 ecu and tcu tune , changed tranfer case, water pump, oil leak etc cos I'm sensitive to my car I want everything perfect. Since I realized how much power this m3p is making . I have been watching tones of videos to see if it has major maintenance issues. Thanks for this video
Did you get it yet?
@itsr1tz326 no haven't sell my golf r. As I have more important things to do now( buying apartment)
Bro SAME I have a tuned 435i bmw and im just over it like I just want simplicity at this point now im older
Maybe wait to fix the PCS thingy until the Tallahassee service center opens this summer. Heck more convenient than somehow getting the car to Jacksonville. Looks like the Superchargers on West Pensacola will be open in a few weeks - maybe. And they have started work on another new Supercharger location at a Circle-K on Thomasville Rd next to I-10. High times for Tesla owners in Tallahassee!
Oh, I hadn't heard about new Superchargers on Thomasville. I'll have to check those out.
Waiting for the Tallahassee service center is a good idea, and as long as it doesn't fail before it opens, I'll probably do that.
@@DriveElectricWithDomenick There is a new 4-stall CCS charging spot at the SunSpot on US 90 exit on I-10. Currently free! I charged there today and got max speed of 189 kWh at 21%. Did I mention it’s free?
@@SpottedSharks Nice! Unfortunately, I need to change some hardware to CCS charge. My car is a 2018.
@@DriveElectricWithDomenick That's right, I forgot. Just as well. They rope you in with the free electrons to get you hooked, then they jack up the price.
Wait.... we're getting a service center here in Tallahassee?!?!?! I didn't know that. Bow I can cross one con off of my list with a Tesla. Seems like this is the right time to buy.
The clink sound might go away if you do the oil service on your Tesla.
Yes Tesla have Oil and Oil Filters.
It needs to be serviced or things will go bad and it will cost a lot of money to fix it.
😂😂😂😂😂
I recently bought a used 2022 Tesla Model 3, and I love it. I have the RWD like you do.
I would suggest the following:
1. A windshield repair company can probably fix the chip in your glass roof edge.
2. Make sure you get your tire fixed quickly because tires with leaks can lose all of their air in a couple of seconds and cause a wreck, tear up your tire and damage your rim.
3. Paint chips on a 2018 is understandable
4. I would also get the charging problem fixed as soon as possible.
I wish you good luck with your Model 3.
We have a service center that's supposed to open in Tallahassee in a couple months. Plan on bringing it in when that happens.
How much did you pay)
@@AnonN-sr6uu Hello, I paid $22,900 before the $4,000 federal rebate. So the actual price I paid was $18,900 + $500.00 dealer fee (which every dealer seemed to charge) + tax and license. It came out to something close to $23,500 out the door..
@@franklong6269 how many miles did it have?
@@AnonN-sr6uu 77,314 miles. That seems like a lot, but it is in immaculate condition. Also, Recurrent rates it at 95% of its original battery capacity. Recurrent is an app that tracks how many miles your Tesla can drive on each charge. Because it has LFP batteries, it loses far less of its original battery capacity than the NCM batteries that Tesla uses. The LFP batteries are very durable.
I have a real-world range of 225 miles in temperate temperatures below 86 degrees F. It also loses 2-3 miles of range a day when it is parked. I think that is because it is connected to the Internet and it has a full-size computer inside that runs the car. If I were to drive its entire range all at once, I probably could get 240 -250 miles of range in combined city/highway driving, but I have never done that.
Because it has maintained most of its battery capacity, its resale value is around $22,000 - $25,000, which is more than what I paid. I
t really is a very comfortable, reliable car. Everything works. FSD works on the car really well (Tesla has given me two free months of FSD). The ride is firm but reasonably comfortable. It's quiet, except on rough roads which are rutted and worn (and all cars are noisy on those roads). It's way faster than about 95% of the cars on the road.
I installed the Tesla Universal Wall Connector (commonly called a home charger) myself, and it works spectacularly well. It costs me about $7.75 to charge the car from 0 -100% at home, which is dirt cheap. The Tesla wall connector works just like the superchargers. It is effortless to charge my car. I will fully charge the car in a little over seven hours. The wall charger is shown on the Tesla app, and it shows it charging when it is in use.
The Model 3 is easily the best car I have ever driven or owned. The used Model 3 cars save you about $15,000 off of the price of a new one.
However, the new Long Range RWD Model 3 is probably the best Model 3 to buy right now even though it does not have LFP batteries. It has a huge 80kWh battery pack that gets 363 miles or real-world range, which is just phenomenal and right now, it costs $34,990 after the federal $7,500 rebate. You can use a referral to get an additional $1,000 off of the price, which brings it to $33,990 before dealer fees and tax and license. This is just a spectacularly low cost for the new Model 3. The NCM batteries will lose about 10-12% of their range over the first four years, but you will still have around 340 miles of real-world range, which is more than enough to travel the entire country easily.
The glass can be heat treated to it almost dissapear and doesn't crack.
First thing is that your mic is low volume. Including when you do the podcast as well. Hope you are able to get the car fixed.
Dom, we all know hindsight is 20-20. You didn't say if you bought the used model 3 from Tesla. Used Teslas CAN BE a good value, provided you do your homework. Tesla gives an extra year warranty once the original factory warranty expires. I would never buy any used car from a location where there is snow and road salt. Winters are just too hard on an EV, especially the battery. Good luck my friend. Hope things work out for you.
Use Dr Colorchip on the paint chips (don't use touch up paint). Local PDR shop for the ding. Any glass shop can repair that windsheild. Get a good INTERNAL patch on that tire and rotate the tires.
Thanks for the Dr Colorchip tip. I'll take a look. And the other tips as well. I didn't think that back glass could be fixed, so that'd be cool.
Thank you for this video, I am currently shopping for a used model 3 and this was helpful.
Did you buy? What did u get and price? They really fell in price used
It is unfortunate used EV cars are not like ICE vehicles, when it comes to repairs or breakdowns.
PCS modules on RWD use a non silicon carbide rectification, and prone to failure. Its possible it was charged at high currents with L2/L3 chargers frequently. Chips on bumpers are easy to fix, since it is plastic.Chip on rear glass can be fixed with uv resin, to almost invisible state. The nail on tire is an easy fix, since it is not on sidewall.
Might need to check on battery health and maintenance done so far. Brake flush, brake service,coolant check topup, atf change, evaporator and radiator cleaning,cabin filter change etc.
Put superglue on the chip on the back window. Get a dent fix done on the rear arch, fairly cheep fix. Those chip marks can be done professionally
Bought a 2019 93000km m3 Longrange AWD: now almost 100000km: perfect
Front tyer nedds replacing as it’s too near to the edge to repair and could bow out at high speed
What did you do with the Dolorean you bought back in 1985?
I think my 2018 was starting to exhibit that AC charging issue just as I was getting rid of it. Seems fairly common, I have seen several people mention it. Also likely failures are the PTC cabin heater, and stuck valves in the coolant system (my bf's 2019 has this on occasion, and I think Kyle had the same problem on his). Bf's 2019 3 is also having what looks like screen delamination issues
Yeah, I'm wondering if my issue on the bottom left hand side of my screen was from a hit, or whether it's delamination. There were a couple very small pieces of glass that I removed from down there.
First of all, Dom, i enjoyed the video by the way you were narrating all your problems with a smile on your face. 😊
I have a 2018 M3 also with a slow leak, as far as the other issues go, I never tried to install a go pro or any other cameras on the 5+years i had this car.
Maybe you should do a video of the car with what your find good about your M3.
Thank you and thanks also for the suggestion. I thought I had a "things I like" video on my list of ones to make, but not seeing it now. I've added it and will probably do soon, along with a 11-year of ownership update.
How much did you get it for?
I paid $31,900, which was a good price a year ago. It had 43,xxx miles on it and FSD beta, premium stereo, and the premium interior.
@@DriveElectricWithDomenick Nice!
I'm thinking of buying a used model 3 in future and was curios what too look for. Your video was helpful. Thanks!
Where did u buy from? Tesla used inventory or a dealership?
I bought it from a dealership in Illinois. Tesla used inventory prices are a bit high, but they come with a bit of warranty, at least.
Here's the video where I go get it. ua-cam.com/video/HhYMs5n6gU0/v-deo.html
Dom check on your mcu screen looks like there might be a glass screen protector on there from previous owner that might come off. I had something similar on lower rt side like you and when I looked really close it was a thin glass screen protector I was able to kinda peel/lift it off.
Oh, ok. It did look like there was something starting to separate, but I assumed it was delamination. Will check again.
@@DriveElectricWithDomenick
Hey dom also check into electrified garage you may also find there prices are better despite maybe farther away from you might be worth it. Most of them are ex Tesla techs they will also use known good used parts on certain things
@@DriveElectricWithDomenick
Dom check out electrified garage in ocala might be better pricing most are Tesla ex techs
You don’t have a charging issue , that’s working just fine .
Haha you remind of the main scientist in Independence Day
🤣🤣🤣
Do you think you'd still buy it again? Do you have a breakdown of the amount of hours and money it took to troubleshoot or resolve these issues? I have a 2017 Prius, runs like a champ, very low maintenance and cost me $12.5k used back in 2021 (worth more now because of inflation in 2024). Teslas are too high maintenance, and the time and frustration fixing these issues would be a huge problem.
I really enjoy the driving experience, so I would buy it again. I wish I could buy it at today's market prices, though. The used prices were still on the high side when I bought.
I haven't fixed a lot of the issues. Some are just so small - like the small blemish on the back glass - that I don't think of them when I have free time.
I don't see it as a high-maintenance vehicle. I basically just drive it.
I never have to change the oil, or do that kind of ICE maintenance. I just plug it in occasionally and drive it. And, having a driven a new (base) Prius a couple weeks ago, I'd rather have a used Model 3 than a brand new Prius. Just a much better driving and software/feature experience.
@@DriveElectricWithDomenickInteresting. Thanks for sharing. I'd compare a used Prius to a used M3 for the most accurate cost-benefit analysis. 😉Tesla value has dropped like a hot rock in water, as we all know, while the Prius has held strong. I really look forward to seeing longterm reviews on these 2018 M3s compared to the 2017 Prius, for example. I'd reckon I'll see far more Prius on the road relative to the total amount sold in the US for each vehicle (between 2017 Prius and 2018 Model 3). That will be the best way to test total cost of ownership at 10 yrs (including time spent, gas/electricity costs, maintenance, part replacements, and initial MSRP). I'd reckon Tesla owners pay more upfront (higher MSRP) and more on the back end (higher out-of-warranty maintenance costs and time spent troubleshooting). I include time in total cost to own because I like filling up my tank in 5 mins and going instead of being tethered to the grid until an EV recharges. Time and freedom to move (away from the electrical grid) is a quantifiable value add to hybrid drivers that EV drivers cannot replicate at the moment.
@NovaPrincess Personally, I charge at home, so I save a ton of time never having to go to a gas station.
I've road-tripped close to 20,000 miles in the past couple years, and never had any issue with being too far from the grid. It can take a little longer to roadtrip with an EV, but I much prefer it. Just a better driving experience, and that makes up for the extra bit of time some trips need.
How many miles were on it when you got it?
Why is it out of warranty. It is a 2018. So you should have 2 years left. Unless it has over 100k miles. That’s exactly why I bought a 2021 so it will be under warranty for me
There’s only a 4 year warranty or 100,000 miles on car and drive train and 8 years or 100miles on battery
Only serious thing is charging issue. Not bad
sheesh! We were thinking about replacing our ICE car with a Model 3, but being stranded at a charging station for 11 hours or something because your PCS shit the bed is a real concern. How common are those PCS problems?
The PCS only affects AC charging, so it still charges fast at a Supercharger.
It's not that common, I don't think. Mostly an issue with early builds.
@@DriveElectricWithDomenick so does that mean you couldn't do level 2 charging at home with a broken PCS?
@stevep6318 yes, I can still charge at home. The PCS has three "blocks." Two of the blocks in mine are down, so it charges at 1/3 of normal: ~3-4 kW.
Thanks for the video. The clink you might be hearing could be the brake caliper disengaging from when you go from Park to Drive and vice versa. You can have someone put it in and out of Park and listen to the caliper lock and unlock. I think think they need to be serviced every 15/20 thousand miles
Pretty sure it's not that. The clck doesn't necessarily happen right after the shift. It's really activated once a certain amount of torque is applied.
Dom, did you get an actual estimate from Tesla for the AC charging fix or are you just estimating? I don’t remember you saying. Maybe it’s a cheap fix.
I didn't have an "official" estimate (they charge for those), but the mobile tech gave me the price. I think it was 16-17 hundred. I say $2,000 because once you add tax and the cost to drive to Jacksonville and back, I figure it'll be about that much.
I also inquired at a non-Tesla place that does this work, and it was a bit cheaper, and not a new part, so I think it makes sense to stick with Tesla service for the fix.
Charge for estimates? Wow, I’ve never been charged for an estimate by Tesla. Does it depend on the type of service?
@petebremy49 not sure. The tech said they'd charge me to confirm the issue, which I guess technically isn't an estimate. I guess I should go back to that video and see if I explained it better
That level 2 charging issue sounds like a bit of a pain but may not be an issue depending on how far you regularly drive.
You ought to bill that repair to Kyle at Out of Spec though. He found the car 😂.
By the way, thanks for the Tallahassee landscape. I grew up there and went to Florida High. Haven’t been back in years though as my family moved when I went to college.
The slower A/C charging hasn't been a huge issue. There's only been a couple times over the course of the year when I wish I could have had a bit more power.
Happy to share the Tallahassee area scenery! It's pretty nice down here. 🙂
@@DriveElectricWithDomenick Kind of ironic that Kyle found a Tesla for you that you can't charge at home yet he is a big advocate of home charging and leaving DC Fast Charging only for road trippers. On the flip side, you could have had the new Chevy Bolt you wanted that would have home charged with no issue but would have been a slow DC Fast Charger.
Up in the Chicago area besides road salt there are also quite a few stone queries as well. A lot of dump trucks hauling rock that shoots out the back of the truck hitting the car bumper if following the truck too closely.
@@Joe3545u I can charge at home, no problem. It's just slower than it should be. For my use case, though, it's fast enough, which is why I haven't replaced the PCS yet.
nice video also you are very sincere thank you.
Im in noeth Florida as well in the Tallahassee area ans ive been debating getting a tesla used for a while. Im glad you made this video.
a lot of these issues you named could’ve been avoided just by being attentive and not slow
I set my home charger to 16 amps all the time, slower is better, 2 years ownership on my EV-6 and no battery degradation, since new 80% chargers still shows 283 miles only charged 4 times in two years at a DC charger, just for the experience not a necessity.
Put a decal over your damaged door panel and forget about it, replace the screen saver on your tablet, glass company to seal your rear glass, paint less dent remover guy for your dent, patch the tire and wrap the front end and wait until your backup noise can be duplicated every time so it can be properly diagnosed.
Get it detailed, fix the tire , and charging thing and stop hooking shit to the inside you will be ok
Thanks for the video and details! Suggestion - look at the camera lens. not at the screen. Its really distracting! :)
Audio very quiet
Did you buy from Tesla or 3rd party?
I bought it used from a Ford dealership outside of Chicago, then drove it home to Florida.
The ding is on you though
Afraid to google it 😂…felt that
Nice video. I need to make a similar one.
Thanks!
it got an 2021 model 3 with 12k mile on it
Dude really you're going to bring up paint chips on the front of a vehicle that's been driven on roads wow how could that have ever happened
Only the cars issue is the charging, everything else is the user or environment 👎
I heard the clinck! Love to plant stuff in your hair, haha
Yeah, I think I heard the clink, too. I'm probably going to dedicate a video to investigating it more fully.
Hope you got the Tesla cheep.
I paid $31,900 which, with FSD, was a pretty good deal at the time of purchase.
The only logical thing to do with a Tesla is lease lol, the lease deals right now are a no brainer (especially if you don’t drive much)
How much do you pay for registration a year.
Can't remember what I paid last time, but according to the county website, it should be about $45.
$45 a year for registration
$45 a year for registration
$45 a year for registration
$45 a year for registration
I thought the video was gonna be about something wrong with the Tesla itself because it was a Tesla. You should rename the video to be called what I didn’t see wrong when I purchased a used car. That would give people a better idea of what the video was actually about.
Was your Tesla built in the USA. The ones coming out of China are much better.
Honestly this is just a video complaining about a car :D
Apart from the charging issue, which you knew about before you bought it, the rest are cosmetic.
The "extra" problems are from you not inspecting the car fully before you purchased it but yeah. live and learn
Just get the tire plugged.
That's the plan.
Always patch from the inside, plugs are BS, makes the hole bigger and prone to fail and leak again, rarely can damage the tire belts.
Also if you don't dismount the tire from the wheel you can miss hidden damage on the inside, exposed cords, shredded rubber, heat damage from riding low.
Many chains are sticklers and will only fix holes in the center tread block and tell you anything else is "the shoulder" but worth a shot.
We don't have them in NY but everyone is always recommending America's Tire out west.
Looks fixable to me.
@@ZeroFuell Thanks for taking the time. Much appreciated.
MAN JUST GO GET A BRAND NEW CAR IF U GOING TO COMPLAIN ABOUT LITTLE BS ITS A USED CAR ITS NOT GOING TO BE PERFECT DAMN
@InTheStreetztv_Reloaded I'm not complaining. Just pointing out what's wrong with this car so people shopping for a used one themselves have an idea what to look for.
I love this car!
I’m gonna take a wild ass guess! You don’t have kids??
Because if you did the last thing on your list of things that aren’t quite right would be a lengthy description of paint chips on a six year old vehicle.
I would say you are fortunate it is a Tesla because if it were say a BMW or like at six years and out of warranty you would be many thousands for things needing replaced or scheduled maintenance costs.
😊
Pretty minor stuff
Yup. The PCS is really the biggest issue, which I think is pretty good.
@@DriveElectricWithDomenick I have a 2018 with 185k miles. My super charging hardware needed to be replaced but other than that car is still solid. Big brand tire will fix your nail tire for free FYI.
you should of got a tesla model s which is better build for high end customers, thus better quality, model 3 is cheaply made for little people , just like cheap $100 laptops which only lasts a year
😊
1:02 the PCS more like POS ;)
What a nightmare
Model s is built to last, model is cheaply made
The pre-2016 Model S was definitely not built to last. There are a lot of failure points on those cars.
sounds like u got rip tf off
It came with FSD (beta), which is now a $12,000 option, so I got a pretty decent deal at the time, despite these issues.
@@DriveElectricWithDomenick my m3 came also with fsd also so yeah maybe good deal after all
I live in Indiana, all those paint chips probably came from driving on roads after chip sealed. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chipseal
Some serious and expensive jobs coming up. My advice sell it on…