I recommend UA-cam channel Out of Spec Reviews. Kyle tests and reviews many EV’s and gives honest evaluations and comparisons. This channel is better for buy used.
There is an in depth video on youtube now, forgot the youtuber's name sorry, but he pulled up the good shit on battery info. basically you want to keep the batter between 25% and 50% to make it last the longest. lithium batteries benefit from small charges, iron batteries's read out needs to be calibrated roughly once a month (charge it to 100%) but otherwise its the same keep it at 50% or so to make it last longer.
Most have bias though. Skip over the shortcomings of ice or ev. As a person who is cheap, I was drown to the other channel for the purchase price when he started it, and the others for running costs (drive 50k+/yr).
Bullish or bearish, AI stocks will still dominate 2024, even beyond. Why I prefer NVIDIA is that they are better placed to maintain long-term growth potential, and provide a platform for other AI companies. I know someone who has made more than 200% from NVIDIA. I'll also take these other recommendations you made.
I agree, just because the market presents opportunities doesn't mean we should rush in headfirst. For this reason, we should look for appropriate market analysis or guidance or seek advice from certified market strategists.
@@GossettsSpiveys No doubt, having the right plan is invaluable, my portfolio is well-matched for every season of the market and recently hit a 100% rise from early last year. I and my CFP are working on a 7 figure ballpark goal, tho this could take till Q3 2024.
@@CameronsHarpers I've shuffled through investment coaches; they can positively impact an individual's portfolio. But do your due diligence to find a coach with grit that withstood the 2008 crash. MARGARET MOLLI ALVEY was better and smarter than all the advisors I have ever worked with. I’ve never met anyone with as much conviction.
After owning multiple Tesla's over the last 4 years, I've definitely seen a big jump in build quality in the 2023/24 model years. Telsa warranty and mobile service is also really good at fixing these minor issues at your home.
Great response! I own a 2024 3 and Y. . . both are great... 3 was perfect, Y had a minor gap. . Mobile Service gave me the option to align when they came but suggested I leave it the way it is.... I guess when they start messing with alignment they can cause other issues.... they say, let it sit where the robots put it.. :)
I'm a 60 year old diesel mechanic... I get people in my conservative area scared to death of "!$15,000 battery pack!?!" I ask them "when's the last time you priced a dealer replacement engine, you know... with an actual executeable warranty on the engine & labor?" If we're going to actually compare even appples to oranges...one first needs to price the orange...
Definitely true. Batteries are also gaining economies of scale and technology improvements that will keep driving costs down. Engines are experiencing diseconomies of scale as fewer ICE vehicles are being sold globally so will become more expensive over time.
I think that's a brilliant comment. A friend of mine dropped over $11k to fix some mechanical stuff (not engine/transmission) on a 2012 Nissan frontier truck, ok
@@mikehurt3290 The known deposits of lithium on earth, which we haven't even been looking for until recently so there's a lot more out there, is easily enough to replace 100% of the roughly 2 billion fossil fuel powered vehicles with current battery tech. In fact, it could more than double it. The resource extraction necessary for 4 billion EVs is less than just the fossil fuels needed to maintain the existing vehicle fleet (in tonnage extracted). Lithium is very abundant. Lithium prices have dropped considerably and are expected to drop considerably more. Current lithium extraction is often done boiling pools of water which takes a long time and only recovers around 30%, plenty of research into methods using osmosis to capture 90% in a tiny fraction the time. Lithium doesn't make up that much of the battery pack by mass, it's mostly more common materials like iron and nickel, the same used in an engine. There's also sodium ion batteries which may replace lithium ion for many purposes using the same salt that's on your fries (see: unimaginably abundant and easy to get). Lastly, EV batteries are easily recyclable where fossil fuels are obviously not recyclable at all. Eventually EVs will require no mining because it'll just be upcycling old batteries into new ones.
A battery health test can be performed by entering Service Mode and navigating to the High Voltage menu. From there, tap Health Test in the HV Battery section.
This is awesome that you started this channel. My parents own a '24 Tesla Model 3. They absolutely enjoy it. Brandon, I can confirm the supercharger is a non-issue. When people take them long distances and place their destination in the GPS, the GPS never takes the Tesla outside of a supercharger route. It will always direct you to one. The superchargers are awesome and have always been a great experience. It does not cost much to charge a Tesla, way cheaper than gas. Power and especially torque is also a huge pro with Tesla vehicles. Additionally, the amount of superchargers and service centers is ever-increasing at a rapid rate.
and Superchargers are EVerywhere. In rural Nova Scotia, 120 miles from the nearest city, Supercharger sites are 60 miles apart. Tesla installed destination chargers on main street (pop. 550) several years ago...
You can check the battery label. It’s visible behind the passenger front wheel. If the serial number ends with Rx, it’s a refurb, and X is the number of times it’s been refurbished.
Tesla investor here. I did not know that overnight on a 110 volt you could get over 100 miles with 10+ hours. I only drive 20 miles a day. Someday I will buy one after I get sick of my 14 year old Ford Fusion. Always nice to have ZERO dollar car payments!
We've been charging our model Y off a 110V plug for 3 years. Surprisingly it's been more than enough. Only need to go 220V if you drive like 80 miles a day every day. If you only drive 30 miles a day and some days drive 200 miles, then 110V will still be plenty as it will catch up over days. I will upgrade to 220V when we haev 2 EVs at home. If you have the means, the EV will save a ton of money and hassle and deliver a MUCH better driving experience of smoothness, quietness and immense acceleration and control.
Bro....I also have a 10 year old fusion and I'm looking at Tesla. I have the Fusion hybrid, which is not great but not terrible. I haven't had a car payment for 8 years after buying the Fusion used. I'm just worried about longevity with Tesla. What state will it be in at 14 years.
With consistent driving the mileage will get better over time. I find it to be the least consistent in ICE cars. After a few weeks my EV mileage is pretty rock solid. But I massage the throttle. I’m never in a rush anywhere
Exactly. We don’t see how many minutes we have on our cell phones. If I don’t use my phone, it’ll have a billion minutes lol. But once I use it l, it goes down to thousands of minutes. Use that same scenario with EV’s. Use percentage. Not miles.
I got a '21 used Tesla M3 SR+ and had battery loss similar to your's. Driving I was losing way more battery than what I had expected. About 3 weeks later, the battery failed and Tesla replaced it with a brand new LFP battery. Not refurbished, but brand new for free. My range went from 168 miles at 80% with the NMC battery to 263 miles with the LFP battery. I don't lose as much of a charge on hot days driving like you did in your video with the new battery. This is in Vegas at 110F. I thought it was the heat like you. I would get it tested before you drive it over 100,000 miles.
People are too focused on EPA range. Just plug in each night and don't worry about the estimated range. The range wildly changes based on speed that you go and how hard you are on the accelerator. All Tesla's have minimum 8 year 100k warranty on motor and battery. For the model S/X its 150k miles. I have driven over 200k miles in EV's. Don't pay attention to estimated range since that is EPA estimate.
I bought my 2021 model 3 Tesla used from Tesla in February of this year with 35k miles on it. In July I had to take it to the service center because it needs a battery replacement. On the plus side they gave me a loaner Tesla while they’re working on it and I have to pay $0.00 out of pocket and when I get it back, I’ll have a brand new battery…On the negative side it’s almost September and they’re still working on it
@@ScottyMarley-nx9rc The car wouldn’t charge. Whenever I would plug it in. It would say charging complete. I also had an error notification on the screen that said to take the car to a service center for the battery. They told me I needed the replacement when I took it in.
I’ve owned a Tesla for a year now, and I have found that you have to change your mindset from one of est range, to one as you would with your phone in terms of a batteries percentage,as it’s the battery percentage that gives you a much better idea of where you can go. Because an EV has much smaller energy storage than a gas powered vehicle, for instance, the model three probably only has an equivalent of 2 gallons of gas in terms of its energy storage. So any additional loads such as driving aggressively or at higher speeds or with the AC on will have a much greater impact on your range than in a gas vehicle because it makes up a larger percentage of the total energy available. In terms of charging your Tesla EV at home I put up with a 120 V outlet for three months and it was a total pain in the ass. You have to get either a 240 V outlet or the dedicated wall connector. My only gripe with my Tesla model Y is that I only get around 200 miles of highway range at 80 mph, or around 265 miles at 60 to 65 mph. I would like to see any EV with a real world 400 mile highway range.
It depends on if they had refurbs available when the SC ordered it. Sometime you’re lucky and you you get a new battery… most of the times, you’re not.
As far as I know from searching... new batteries are only available for new cars. If it is an older car, then you will definitely receive a refurbished battery. If the car is new, for example, up to a year, you may get a new battery, but the chances are maybe 1%. I know a case where the owner replaced 2 batteries in less than two years, luckily the batteries were under warranty. That's what I don't like about EVs, you pay ex: 15k, and the battery isn't even new, just replaced cells and tested. If you want you can do your own research, I'm not going to search the web again...🙂
@@dchubworldsharenetwork refurbished batteries have been thouroughly tested. New batteries come out of the line so you can expect a lot from a refurbished battery.
@dchubworldsharenetwork and the cells are used ones from other packs. They match the voltages for the repairs. Basically, matching the degradation. Definitely NOT refurbished... that's very misleading... just repaired. Their's a big difference They certainly charge you as if you were getting a new battery!!!
Yes, I know that.... but it's still not new. Two batteries have exactly the same problem, and the "new" battery shows the same error message after a year. You're not going to convince me the battery was new or whatever you want to do. Nope 🥂🥂 Forgot... the third battery worked normally for 4+ years.
I bought a 2016 P90DL+ with 120k miles of it. Absolutely ROCK SOLID!! This thing is sooo clean, and holding up sooo good that, I am still in disbelief! ! Battery range, 296 miles when I charge to 100%, based on my driving behavior! Only thing I had to replace was 2 door handles, to version 3.0. I guess, every time they (Tesla) makes a new improvement on the handles, they name the upgrade. Anyways, that was expected but besides that, for an 8 Y/O vehicle with, well over 100k miles, I am very happy with it and planning on keeping it for a few more years!!
You can run a battery diagnostic on the battery and it's in the service menu of the car and it let you know how much degradation the battery has experienced so far. Snd also you may not need a an entire battery change it maybe just a cell or two which intern would cost a lot less
Re: battery replacement A study came out early 2023 that tracked the replacement rate of batteries after a decade of use and for all EVs it was 3-4%, mostly dragged up by the OG Nissan Leaf that had no thermal management system. And that's 2013 technology.
Thanks for your entertaining and informative videos. I really enjoy your work. A few things about the Teslas. I'm going on 4 years of owning a Model Y. I bought a new one in September of 2020. Then traded it in on a new 2023 Model Y last August. The Tesla models are constantly being improved in many areas like newer tech, better ride quality and cabin noise. You could research the many improvements and they are substantial. So far as the range estimate shown just tap the milage by the battery symbol and it will change to percentage of charge. Whenever you navigate to a destination Tesla will give you the estimated charge level % at your destination and for a round trip. In my experience the percentage is mostly always with in +- 2% depending on the wind and temperature. It could vary more in really cold and wet conditions. The Model Y and newer Model 3's have a heat pump that is more efficient than the old resistance heater. The warranty for the Long Range Model Y & 3 is 8 Years or 120,000 mi for the drive units and the battery, the battery should retain 70% charge. The frequent free software updates with new and improved features keep your car fresh . The first car came with the mobile connector and it has adapters for 120 and 240V . I installed a Dryer plug in my carport and charge at 240V. I'm saving $150 to $175 per month over gas. My monthly electric bill runs $30 to $50 more than before. I bought an extra mobile charger to keep in the car and never had to use it yet. We are a 2 car family and have a gas RAV 4 but usually go in the Tesla because of the FSD tech and the great enertainment system. Best of wishes for you and yours and keep the great content coming.
Insightful, no BS vid. They should just use leather for the steering wheel. I’ve heard of their material splitting on the wheel before. I don’t know why they can’t perform basic QA. I even hear of rattles, panel gaps, etc. on brand new Teslas. I wish we had stats on how quality has improved/declined for Tesla over time.
The new Tesla quality is way better than the 2019's. You are right... they were crap before. My 2023 model y interior is way better then my 2020. My experience all cars have issues... even my 2019 4Runner.
The main difference is your 4Runner can easily last 30 years with basic maintenance. Tesla? You'll be lucky to not replace battery in 8 years, but even in that best outcome scenario you'll have a dud on your hands with very low resale value and diminished range, not to mention tons of other quality issues.
@@danguelph2676 just yesterday I jumped in the 4Runner and it was dead. It was only a dead battery but pretty ironic I had to take the Model Y to Autozone because of a dead battery. I truly love both of those vehicles.
I bought a used 2020 Model 3 from Tesla that needed a lot! That a-pillar trim was falling off, water in the taillights, seat rattle, dead pixel, trunk thunk, brake click and more. But...., I bought it from Tesla and they come with a 1-year bumper-to-bumper warranty. They fixed EVERYTHING for ZERO DOLLARS. I would recommend buying from them, no b.s. My car is feels like a 100% factory-new car now.
@@sLaMz1o1 Tesla Mobile charger. I used a 120v for a few months. Honestly, it was fine, but I have a weird setup and my breaker kept flipping. So I had a guy put in a 220v, charges to full in about 6 hours.
As long as a key is not the size of another wallet or phone, having a real world one that gets you in your car even if you lose, break or run out of charge on your phone can make a huge difference in the flow of a day (or week/month even).
Keeping the cabin overheat protection on will affect the range as well. As it is runing some AC while you are not in it to keep the cabin cooler so when you get in the seats arent super hot. I really enjoy that feature during the summer and dont care about the over the day range hit as I dont drive much daily. The trade off of not sitting in scorching hot seats is a plus in my book. Another thing that will drain some of the battery is sentry mode. I dont use this feature on a daily basis as I know my area and crime is not a big issue here.
The charge thing that got me as a new owner was the sentry mode. I couldn't figure out why I was loosing 7 miles a day just sitting there. Once in awhile it will still get me when someone else drives it and their profile is set to have sentry mode on. So in short, if you are going to drive your car, always check your charge level the night before. One of the GREAT things about owning a Tesla is you get an updated car every 2 to 3 months. You NEVER get that with an ICE. The car you buy is the car you have till it dies. But not Teslas.
@@danguelph2676 You often get a BETTER car with Tesla; better camera resolution, adaptive headlights, improved ride quality, better autopilot, parental controls, etc. Is change a PITA? Yes, but it gives you a better vehicle over and over again.
Good question! If it is a Kia/Hyundai 2.4L the answer is "Lots of them!". (Granted, that's not a hard number OR percentage.) As good as Toyotas normally are, apparently the new Tundra V6 turbos are NOT good, either.
Same thing happened when Prius first came out. They were saying the Prius batteries will be expensive to replace. A 2005 Prius battery new was worth like $10k back then. Now it’s worth 1-3k and the battery is far more superior.
I agree but even my early Model 3 is still going strong for me after 100k km , a bit noisy on the highway maybe but no rattles yet and basically no maintenance it's crazy. Just tires and wiper blades/fluid. Looking into a second hand 2018 model 3 for the wife right now, based on how my car has held up over the years. It's a steal. It does help that we can charge on solar basically for free, tbh.
Wife and I live in Charlotte and we bought a new 2023 Tesla Model Y LR last June from Tesla. The car currently has 17,407 miles on it and it has cost us $802 dollars so far to drive those 17,407 miles. This includes some supercharging but not much, we do 90 percent of our charging at home (level 2 charger I installed in our garage) and a few places have free charging when you stay at their hotel/campground. The app Tesla on your phone will keep track of the charging cost as long as you update the cost of electricity where you live. If you average out the cost per mile it has cost us about .046 cents a mile to drive this car. You will easily spend $35 to $60 dollars a week in fuel cost (gasoline) depending on what you drive and how much you drive (gasoline car or truck can cost anywhere between 10 to 20 cents a mile for gasoline). You can recharge a Tesla for about 60 dollars a month (or less) (that averages about 10-15 dollars a week). We regularly drive to Gastonia, Indian Trail and Waxhaw to visit or kids and grandkids from near Harrisburg. Trips to Myrtle Beach are no problem and we can arrive with about 120 miles remaining on the battery (or more) after we arrive at the campground. As far as maintenance goes, other than windshield wiper fluid we have not spent anything on the car. At 80 percent charge the car will show about 250 miles on the display and depending on how much driving we only need to charge about every three days. Most people are not going to drive over about 60 miles a day and home charging with a 240 volt charger. EV's will not work for everyone but I would estimate that 70 percent of the people that currently drive a gasoline car and don't require a large SUV/truck could save thousands of dollars every year if they would change over to an EV. Battery life will be the biggest worry people have on these cars and over time it will get better as the cars age and the true life becomes known. Looks like a good opportunity for you if you can find a good source of replacement batteries and can offer / give the customers a small warranty with each new car sold. Basically when you replace the battery you have an almost new car. It will be interesting to see how this new market develops.
I agree with you 100%. I got a 23 Model 3 for a steal and have been so impressed with the car. Plenty of speed, comfort, smoothness and luxury. Drove from Greenville to Johnson City with no issues with range anxiety. Don’t miss my ice vehicle.
I drive similar size RAV4 Hybrid 2023. I'm ironically sitting at almost exact as yours 17,574 miles. It has cost me $1192 dollars for gas. It's been more than a year and I only spent $387 more than you have. That's about only $32 per month more. And on positive side I can travel 550 miles on one tank and refuel in 5 min!! I'm so much enjoying my freedom ad ability to refuel in 5 min anywhere I go!! It's incredible. Oh did I mention that $32 per month difference is more than compensated by much cheaper insurance? I pay $48 per month for my Geico insurance. I'm sure you pay a lot more and total with electricity it comes more than I spent per month! So you see I pay less in total and have more freedom!!! Oh did I mention that my Toyota will last 2-3 times as long? Ad did you know that tires for EV will wear a lot faster and they cost a lot more? I feel like I'm already ahead, but as time goes I'll pile up so much cost savings compared to your Tesla that it's mind blowing.
Love the accurate info. One clarification on the battery replacement, to put it in ICE terms, you wont necessarilly pay the dealership 15k for a new motor, you'll spend a couple grand rebuilding your engine. Same with batteries, replacing the whole battery is expensive but there are more and more places popping up that can repair individual modules instead
Well said! And with over 6,000,000 model 3&Y who use the same packs already out there? It's no doubt an aftermarket will spring up for replacing and or repairing them! One aftermarket place run by x tesla employees already offers model s x and roadster pack's for 20-40% cheaper than tesla prices. I bet a basic model 3 or Y pack replacement will be about 8k with a 5yr+replacement warranty by 2028 or sooner. Of course with your old pack as a trade in&labor might ad a bit more to it. Tesla is also offering a cheap upgrade to a new lfp pack for the nmc base sr 3&Y that are getting older now. Inc a set of new rear springs to account for the weight difference. With a full new 8yr 100k warranty to!
Just some notes. Tesla replaces the battery under warranty up to 8 years or 150K miles on the S and X. Some got used as opposed to new batteries. There is a site that has plotted the battery life for 1000s of Tesla batteries. One can see where the cars get battery changes by a jump in capacity. More data on S and X as they have been on the road longer. Sorry but I forget the channel.
I was going to make my own comment but you hit on what I was going to write - the 2019 M3 has 8 years/100k miles battery warranty. As you said the S/X are typically even better. Battery replacement cost will go down significantly as they scale production. I am curious if he sees this comment - what % of ICE vehicles have a transmission/engine issue within 100k miles? Also, if you factor in maintenance cost savings (including fuel) what would your savings be at 100k miles assuming a battery costs $15k and a new engine or transmission is easily $3k each. Either way it makes for an interesting calculation.
It's interesting how when people hear that 2 Teslas have had their batteries replaced leads to an "EVs aren't ready and are expensive to maintain because batteries" but when a Range Rover has to have its whole engine replaced after 30.000km it doesn't lead to an "Ice cars are unreliable and expensive to maintain" kind of argument.
That's because Range Rover is known to be most unreliable brand lol. Toyota 4Runner or RAV4 lasts 20-30 years. Even best EV will be at its end cycle in 8 years.
@@danguelph2676 the problem with your statement, apart from being false, is that it is highly uninformed. There are Teslas on the road that've been running since 2012 and still going with over 300.000km and no major issues whatsoever. That's 12 years, in case you need to do the math.
On the 110v hookup your house delivers about 1.4kWh to the car. 1.4 kWh times 14 hours = essentially 20kWh. That's how much gas was delivered to the tank, 20 kWh. Typical cost for electrons is about 10¢/kWh, or $2.00 for the 80-100 miles your 20kWh deliver.
There used to be a sticker plug to cover the tail light condensation that would need to be replaced. Hair dryer can dry it out and then replace that plug. Not sure if still the case.
I read online that the headlights at least are vented which allows for condensation to enter and exit the headlight, making the condensation somewhat normal as long as it doesn’t stay if for long periods of time. I wonder if the same venting exists for the tail lights?
You are asking that the gauges be accurate. They are not in an ICE car nor are they in a EV. At 8:21 you show that you drove 66 mi and used 232 WH. That means you are getting 4.31 miles per kWh. That was probably the model 3. MPG is effected by how heavy your foot is as well as other things. Miles per kWh is the same. The only thing that is accurate in the gauges are your speed as well as the battery percent level, not the RANGE. This is why I argue with my wife, I put the car into showing percentage. I know that we average around 3.6 miles per kWh. So if I see it at 20%, I know I have about 70ish miles of range. AKA, I treat it like a CAR where the gas gauge shows 1/4, 1/2, 3/4 a tank. The battery issue - dude, get over it. Batteries are RARELY replaced. At 100k miles, you may see 1 out of 10000 cars having a battery be replaced. At 200k miles, you still rarely see batteries replaced. There has to be a compelling reason to replace the battery. Stop thinking this is an engine. An engine blows and YOU HAVE to replace it. A battery degrades and it just means you have to charge more often, the car still goes.
Let’s talk build quality 😊, I have bought 4 Teslas,2021, 2022 and 23 model 3 L.R AND 2024 model Y, in my limited experience I always took an inspection check list to check for things like moisture in taillights, trim alignment etc and never did I find anything. I heard build quality was an issue as they were ramping up production. If I could afford it I would certainly buy an S.
One thing on the road/wind noise: around 2020-2021 the Model 3 added noise canceling glass in the front that helps a ton. Had a loaner Model Y without it and it makes a world of difference. The new refreshed Model 3 (2024) has noise canceling glass all around and is supposed to be much, much quieter still. Also: can't speak for your doors not closing all the way, but if you try with a decibel meter you'll likely find it's generally much quieter at highway speeds than many ICE vehicles.
The true test if a BEV is right for you in terms of range: put a piece of tape over the displayed battery range. Use it like a normal car throughout the day and then plug it in at night. Does it get you where you need to go? Does it matter if you use 50% or 20% or 70% of the range per day, but it still gets you everywhere you want and need to go? It’s a matter of personal choice. Of course the tape method is more of a mental exercise rather than a literal thing to do, but it pretty normal for a person new to EVs to be concerned about it. If it’s a dealbreaker, then it’s a dealbreaker. If you can get over it mentally, it’s fine. Some days we put 20 miles on our M Y. Other days I drive Uber and do 200+ miles with 7 hours of continuous Uber driving. It’s all fine. If I need more range I can stop at a local supercharger, but I rarely need to do that.
My wife and I both charge off of a single 120 charger. Her car is in the garage and then when I charge, I run the cable under the garage door. No issues. I always leave sentry mode on just in case there is ever an issue. I also have lights on the front of my house to deter any mischief.
Especially older model S had battery and engine problems, they needed to be replaced often, BUT with modern model 3 this isn't a big problem. And you have warranty on the battery for 8 years and 120k miles...
Autopilot is intended for freeway driving. It's the free software that comes with the car. If you're going to do anything that requires the car to lane change or follow beyond guided lines on both sides then get a FSD subscription. I respect that you're a genuine dude with good intentions so I know you're not trying to blame the software. In this case it's user error. 🙂
A note on range....the computer can only predict future range performamce based on past driving history (like the stock market). If you've spent the last 400miles driving in town on a temperate day (70f) and after charging it gives you an estimated range of 450miles, dont expect 450miles when your next trip is on a 70mph interstate on a 100f day. Think EV mileage opposite of ICE mileage, where ICE sucks in town and excels on highway, an EV sucks on highway and excels in town. (Your milage may vary) Your kWh average is lile MPH, the lower it goes the better range you can expect.
Finally someone that actually understands the complexity of the range calculation! Well explained! Another component that makes a difference is that older batteries may deteriorate in capacity, for a M3 (w/ 57.5kwh for standard range) that could be a possible reduction to 46 kwh (80% of the original capacity), yet the BMS will indicate it has fully charged when the voltage reaches the maximum threshold for it's lithium battery module of 350V. The charger must stop charging when it reaches that voltage or bad things can happen to the battery, but that doesn't mean it has filled up the car with 57.5 kwh of power. The car estimates how much power is in the battery based on the original power capacity brand new times the battery voltage (which is a side-ways S curve where the voltage fluctuates very little in the middle but by a lot on the top & bottom). It then divides this estimate of power stored in the battery by the average efficiency of your last few trips to get an estimated mileage. This explains why as the voltage starts to drop in the last 1/3rd of the battery SOC, the mileage may show less distance traveled than what the estimate-of-an-estimate indicated. IOW, your battery is diminishing in size as it ages & accumulates mileage, which would be similar to your gas tank shrinking as you own the vehicle. Lastly, LFP batteries are recommended to be charged to 100% & discharged frequently to the last 10-20% so that the power capacity can be estimated (due to different chemistry). The takeaway is that the car's software doesn't have a 100% accurate estimate of the amount of energy/KWh in the battery, but is estimating from various voltage or metering systems, and therefore when coupled with estimates of efficiency (how aggressive you drive & other factors (temp, etc)) the calculations have a 2nd order compounding margin of error.
Good review. I have a 2021 MYLR 7 seat. 133k on the clock. I did have the main battery replaced. Good thing with my year the warranty went upto 120k miles. It was replaced at 108k miles. Runs awesome. I think the issue is that I was charging it to 100 percent every day and it caused a cell in the battery to becom3 unbalanced. The techs was able to determine that. It's ok to charge to 100 for a few days for trips, but it's best to do a max of 95 percent. Daily I do 80%. Original brakes. I've done some mods to mine. Bought it brand new. I've talked to people who have tesla who are over 100k miles, they key is to not charge to max all the time. Also with range, think of it as a math sign wave. What I've noticed it may say your range is less than what it is, but I've noticed it depends on how you drive. Keep the speed below or at 70 and no hard launches, which is no fun. Lol . But with a sign wave the beginning it's a climb up to the top and a fast drop to the bottom on the other side. What I've seen is that whe. You aroun 40 to 60 percent it seems to either charge really fast or you drain fast but once your past 40 percent the charge drain slowly. I hope anything I said helps. But honestly I just drive it like normal and enjoy the drive.
If the transmission is slipping... time to replace it with a new car. Let the next guy deal with it. Battery is dying? Time to replace it with a new car. Let the next guy deal with it. Same logic. Transmission doing fine at 200k miles? Keep going. Battery doing fine at 200k miles? Keep going. I expect most "used" EVs have a problem. Just like Gas cars. It is a very easy to check the battery. Charge it to 100% and take a picture of the screen with the date. If the car should have 224 miles and it only has 130 miles at 100%, something is wrong. :)
Tesla has a battery test mode - which you run the battery down to 0% and it will charge it back to 100% and inform you the battery health. It is a lengthy process and occasionally fails.
This don't fix anything and just get new is why we are in the resource problem we're now in. Repair when you can, put off replacement until absolutely necessary. Our world and future generations will thank you.
@@allenbaylus3378 Sure you can waste 20 hours or you can just charge to 100% and take a picture. Do it your way if you want. Mine is faster and just about as accurate. Hope the dealer lot has a good charge point for you and they are willing to let you do it. Also, it is not good for the battery to run that test very often. I am sure the dealership won't mind though. Like how you test a gas car by maxing the RPMs for 10 seconds before you buy? Just floor it for 10 seconds. If it breaks, something was wrong. Don't buy it. Right?
I am usually within 5 miles of estimated range on my 2023 model 3. My commute to work is 48 miles one way. If your range was 40 miles off, you had a lead foot on that "gas pedal".
One consideration when charging. You should charge your battery once in a while to 100% so the car can recalculate range.. this is how the battery management system recalibrates itself.
LiFePo4 packs "Like" A 100% calibration charge every week or so. . The rule with a Nickel based pack is keep it low (as low as 60 20%) if you are an "Average" driver ("15 miles per day") . *IF* you occasionally have a "capacity length trip", aim for the 95-100% charge to end just before you leave.
He's not talking about it helping the cells. He's referring to the battery management system. Every cell in the vehicle is monitored. So charging up full once a month will help calibrate the BMS and help balance out the cells in the modules. If it's to outa balance, it'll throw a code. The Tesla service centers don't do repairs on the battery, they will only replace. So keeping that BMS happy is well worth it.
Definitely would recommend the vehicles to be put through a battery health test in the service menu option. It should take anything between 8 to 24 hours depending on battery percentage and how big the battery is but I will give you a more accurate representation of how much battery depleted it has. The panels that are falling apart that is due to really cheap clips they could be reordered through Tesla or just bought separately. And in order to get the most range put it on chill mode and just watch the acceleration and all the other options.
Steering wheel disintegrating and chair trim separation both happened in my mercedes E class, which I bought brand new. The mercedes wood trim all faded to pink and became a recall item. A 2019 Model 3 is early model year, our 2021 Model 3 has no build quality issues at all. None. But the big difference is the drivetrain. Twin turbo V8 420hp Mercedes used to feel smooth and fast - but even the base Model 3 absolutely blows away the Mercedes on smoothness and instant power, one hundred percent better drivetrain and responsiveness. Not a fan of the grey plastic interior of the Tesla, but that is my only gripe. Cost was 1/10 per mile the cost of gassing the Mercedes.
Are those prices with labor? Asking because a neighbor was quoted $26k from Tesla for his model S battery, also I think it’s a smaller battery, 75 vs 85kWh
Older model 3 you have to readly use the car daily to get the capacity to go up over time because tesla is adjusting software and recalculating the capacity. Fast chargers will throw off the bms by 10 miles and the car will adjust capacity to reflect real usable range.
A good way to also measure Tesla battery health is by going to the service menu and running the HV battery health test. It also recalibrates the calculated range and lets you know the current battery health. The way the test works is it'll run your motors and heat to drain the battery and then measure how many kWh it took to fully charge it again. Does take up to 24 hours tho- Service menu is easily accessible by the user.
Any battery changes at less than 100k miles will cost the owner NOTHING. The MINIMUM battery/drive train warranty is 8 years/100k miles. Many have 8 years/120k miles.
@@christiannavarro2498it seems in the modern market between repairs and depreciation the sweet spot for offloading most ICE cars is 95K. If I find a 3 year old car with 20K miles, 75K/6 years is 15K miles, which is what the average American drives each year. The unknown right now is how many years/miles will folks who buy these cars be looking for in battery warranty and how it impacts the depreciation curve. Will an Ioniq 5 or a Tesla 3 with 110K miles and 12 years have the value of a 2008 Camry? How does someone get a battery PPI? That’s the great long term unknown.
I havent read all the comments here, but as the original owner of a older tesla, another important battery metric is how fast it charges at a supercharger. SC charging rates are lowered for the older cars and can affect wait times on road trips. If you want to use one for a lot of road trips and use the SC network, check to see how fast it charges from, lets say, 20 to 80 percent on a supercharger. :)
Prices will start to go back up on used Teslas once people get past the FUD of thinking you must get a new battery. Time will prove this. Most could get 400k miles out of these with same battery.
@@remyllebeau77 I fully expect almost all Tesla cars built after 2018 to last more than 500k miles. Most will last 750k miles. Just because the range has went from 224 new all the way down to 178 after 20 years does not mean the car stopped working or is not getting almost 120mpge! Do you have to replace the engine of any car that goes from 28mpg to 25mpg? On a 16 gallon tank that is a range decrease from 448 miles down to 400!
How's the rust protection on these? Most cars rust out over time. I live in a dry area so cars last decades! I've been driving the same car for 42 years.
if you buy from Tesla inventory they give you a 1yr/10k limited warranty or if it still under warranty they extend it. Have you found a way to check for the unusual, like sticking a camera probe under the motor covers to notice if it's gone through puddles? can you review any store video to see how that last owner drove it?
It's so cool seeing a breakdown like this then comparing it to the stuff they've been making. Pretty significant improvements in ~5 years of production
And you will pay a significant premium for buying a used Tesla directly from Tesla. Better deals are person to person but that also drives up the risk because you will not be able to check history and background. It isn't like you can take it down the street to your favorite auto shop to checkout the systems like you can an ICE vehicle. Everything has a plus or a minus. Kind of like life.
Your lower range at the end of the day vs actual miles used is probably due to Cabin Protection Mode and Sentry Mode. If it was a hot day your AC was keeping the interior at 100F. Both can be tuned off in the app.
Bull Shit on new Tesla's bad build issues are from liars!!! I have a 4 day Model 3 Performance. It is perfect, in every way. The build issue in my wife's Model Y is perfect as well.
You need to be in EPA rated efficiency on your drive to match shown range on the screen. Even if you do that it drops faster since Tesla hides energy below zero miles indicated. It does this by showing you pessimistic range number on the screen. My suggestion: just switch to % SoC instead of miles and plug in every time you got home. If you dont have a home charger ABC always be charging whenever you see a charger
man, please, DROP THE BACKGROUND MUSIC. For people like me, with some sort of attention crazy disorder, that background music fuchs up everything. Please drop it.
You replaced the battery on S. It will take some time for the Tesla software to adjust and give you accurate range. Right now it will give you the old battery range. People don't drive 300 miles every day. In 240v charge at 24A you gain 30 miles per hour so with in 10 hours you fully charge it. I keep mine charged at 70% and don't go under 30% I have not use Super charger yet because home charge is good enough and I am not driving morethen 50 miles a day
Don’t kid yourself, I’ve been a mechanic for 40 years , i bought my mod 3 Tesla , 3 years ago. ITS the BEST car I’ve ever owned! And I’ve owned everything virtually 😊😊😊 get off your ass and try yourself. You won’t be disappointed 😊😊😊
Lot's of videos available of older Teslas with lots of fit issues and paint issues unfortunately. My 2023 Model Y Performance came from the CA plant and didn't have any fit issues but it did come with quite a paint defects (black). The car is now 18 months old and I don't have any additional problems to report. No major wind noise, road noise, suspension noise or trim clips failing. However, some of the interior is easy to mark up with shoes, backpacks, soccer gear so we will see how it holds up over time. Carpet is low quality material so get some really good floor mats (I like the 3D MAXpider). I knew all this going into the purchase. It isn't a luxury vehicle but it is super fast and fun to drive and also works great to tote the kids around. Just know what you are buying. Charging has been very consistent. I also agree with other comments to keep your eye on the battery percentage and not the mileage range. You can also use the navigation to get a continuous estimate as to how much battery charge you have left. It takes a little while to get a feeling for how far you can go and what to do when you go even further (e.g. super charge). You should be able to check for several stickers and VIN numbers to determine if a battery has been replaced on a Tesla. If you do a Google search you will find info on how to do this.
It is definitely big if you can cool/heat it before unplugging. Conditioning the car in extreme hot or cold while not plugged in eats range as it's using a lot and not moving.
Switch to % by tapping on the range number on the top of the screen, like a cell phone. Then rely on the energy display and click on consumpton. The instant range estimate you see there is nearly perfect because it rates your range based on consumption. You'll see the graph spike all over the place depending on how crazy you drive. Also, if you use navigation, it bases your estimated range on this consumption figure as well, so it's accurate. It's good you got a Tesla with a fresh battery, you got a steal if $20,000 is all you paid. I think battery failures are more frequent than Tesla wants us to believe, but I'm sure if Ford had a 2x or 3x longer powertrain warranty to match Teslas, you would see the same thing with engine or transmission rebuilds/replacements. For these high mileage cars out of warranty, the battery needing replacement will 'total' the car. But the same is the case for a Nissan or a Ford. They probably aren't worth it in many cases. I'd also recommend you check out the app ScanMyTesla and buy an OBDII to bluetooth scanner (some models might require an adapter too since federal regulations don't require pure electrics to have OBDII so Tesla doesn't include them). WIth this, you can pull the specs on the car, understand how often they were fast charged, know how many charge cycles were on it, and determine if it's got a new battery or not. If you want to provide maximum value to your customer, scoop up those cars with fresh batteries. That's the way to buy a used high mileage Tesla. The cars themselves are very reliable. Love watching this journey from the perspective of a business owner. Mechanics and dealerships will have to make this move whether they want to or not, it's cool seeing businesses taking the first steps, analyzing cost and value- I find this under the hood stuff of businesses to be interesting.
"If it was off by 10%, I'd be okay with that". Battery range estimate is off by 10% (30 miles): "Wow, this is a big negative" 🙂Nothing wrong with the range estimate on that Model 3. Saying that Tesla range estimates are optimistic is an understatement. Their range estimates are based on perfect EPA test conditions that are difficult to achieve in real-world use.
On a perfect day, 70 degrees F, 60 miles per hour on the highway. No A/C or heating, no big heavy load or towing, your range is 30% to 80% ( 50% of the 100% charge range ). It’s that simple folks. You should charge at 30% to 80% for minimal degradation
Hoping I can get into an EV soon 😅 I recently got a 2020 Honda Accord for nearly the price of a new Tesla 😢 My gf ordered the 2024 Model 3. Checking it out in store, it’s such a nice ride. Really good quality inside. Leather seats, powered seats, leather steering, soft touch plastics, a light bar, quiet cabin, bucket seats, nice big responsive screen, etc. Seriously I feel like a dumbass for buying a used vehicle even if it is nice. A new Tesla wasn’t that much more expensive. The purchase experience was a so easy. 15-20 mins the car was ordered and paperwork for financing you do through their app which you can do at your leisure as long as it’s before a certain date. They even gave us the option to literally test drive the car on our own for like 30 mins. Go drive around and come back. Instead I went to the stupid dealer, spent hours just to get fucked lmao.
You can run a battery diagnostic on the battery and it's in the service menu of the car and it let you know how much degradation the battery has experienced so far
A finer detail to point out for people new to Tesla/BEVs: The mobil connector you are using on the 120/240 volt outlet is totally fine. It will give you up to 30 miles of range off of that outlet. If you were to opt for either of the two hardwired Tesla wall connectors using the exact same outlet, you could get up to 44 miles of range per hour of charging. Your setup is totally fine and will work just fine, but if you wanted the maximum amount of juice per hour of charging, a Tesla wall connector would be needed. There are wall connectors from other brands that can provide even more juice, but the range per hour is then limited by the hardware inside the car at that point. The charger is actually inside the car. That’s why they call it a wall connector and not a charger. But the charger inside the car can only go up to 48A AC. There are some rare early Model S and Model X that have a dual charger setup in the vehicle, so they can get double the range per hour of charging, but Tesla hasn’t made those for a while now, because nobody really needs that much home charging rate capacity. Cheers.
My son just bought a Ford lightning base model . It has 240 in range and it isn't a issue . Charges at home or work . Half that 240 is good to go . I drove and it's a better forn if driving with the one pedal technique . Now the lightning has a very good build quality and has great suspension. I think the ride quality is so good because of the weight distribution of the battery when ice vehicles have allot of weight in the the front engine compartment which can cause reverberation on the front wheels . You don't get any of that with the lightning . Best drive I have ever had . Now the tech is probably quite a bit behind Tesla but as suggested Teslas may not be very comfortable to drive and build quality lacking . The reason for the differences one is a car company trying to be a tech company while the other is a tech company is trying to be a car company You have possibly found a nitch to make some money . If you can figure out what the battery health is you may be into something . The doors and panels are minor fixes . You maybe able to mechanically be able to tell if a battery was replaced by maybe looking at the panels as you get some evidence of that with scratches and bolt removed and put back in . Another way is how much range is left . If you can get an average degradation of the battery and apply that to the used Tesla it may tell if the battery has been replaced . Another factors is the cars charging speed and how many kw it's using and in the correct range . If the charge is slower than normal or even completing a max charge faster than what would be expected the battery may have some level of negative battery health . I don't think the EVs of the last few years have problems with batteries and I would say conservatively you can get 150 k of decent battery health . So a car with a 100k on average would have at minimum another 5 years of good battery health . Your definitely on to something that others are not doing and you get in the ground floor
Im loving that you started this channel. It's so hard to find channels that aren't super pro or anti ev. I want middle ground veiw points.
I recommend UA-cam channel Out of Spec Reviews. Kyle tests and reviews many EV’s and gives honest evaluations and comparisons. This channel is better for buy used.
There is an in depth video on youtube now, forgot the youtuber's name sorry, but he pulled up the good shit on battery info. basically you want to keep the batter between 25% and 50% to make it last the longest. lithium batteries benefit from small charges, iron batteries's read out needs to be calibrated roughly once a month (charge it to 100%) but otherwise its the same keep it at 50% or so to make it last longer.
Brandon was the biggest EV hater, but he realized that he needed experience at selling EVs . The world is going all EVs no matter what Americans want.
@@rostyloco1 engineering explained... Great UA-cam channel.
He has done some in-depth video on batteries
Most have bias though. Skip over the shortcomings of ice or ev. As a person who is cheap, I was drown to the other channel for the purchase price when he started it, and the others for running costs (drive 50k+/yr).
Bullish or bearish, AI stocks will still dominate 2024, even beyond. Why I prefer NVIDIA is that they are better placed to maintain long-term growth potential, and provide a platform for other AI companies. I know someone who has made more than 200% from NVIDIA. I'll also take these other recommendations you made.
I agree, just because the market presents opportunities doesn't mean we should rush in headfirst. For this reason, we should look for appropriate market analysis or guidance or seek advice from certified market strategists.
@@GossettsSpiveys No doubt, having the right plan is invaluable, my portfolio is well-matched for every season of the market and recently hit a 100% rise from early last year. I and my CFP are working on a 7 figure ballpark goal, tho this could take till Q3 2024.
@@JuliansWattses I will be happy to receive assistance and glad to have someone help me, but how can one spot a reputable one?
@@CameronsHarpers I've shuffled through investment coaches; they can positively impact an individual's portfolio. But do your due diligence to find a coach with grit that withstood the 2008 crash. MARGARET MOLLI ALVEY was better and smarter than all the advisors I have ever worked with. I’ve never met anyone with as much conviction.
@@JuliansWattses Thank you for this Pointer. It was easy to find your handler, She seems very proficient and flexible.
After owning multiple Tesla's over the last 4 years, I've definitely seen a big jump in build quality in the 2023/24 model years. Telsa warranty and mobile service is also really good at fixing these minor issues at your home.
Great response! I own a 2024 3 and Y. . . both are great... 3 was perfect, Y had a minor gap. . Mobile Service gave me the option to align when they came but suggested I leave it the way it is.... I guess when they start messing with alignment they can cause other issues.... they say, let it sit where the robots put it.. :)
Yeah, I feel the same way. Even just over the past couple of years, the build quality has jumped significantly.
I have a 2019 and a 2023 Model 3. You’re absolutely correct.
I agree my 2023 has 0 build quality issues and I have seen the same for many of the 2024 model 3s
@@gerardoalfredorivas4707 late 2023 Model 3 here as well. Build quality was way better than I was expecting. Panel gaps were a non issue.
I'm a 60 year old diesel mechanic... I get people in my conservative area scared to death of "!$15,000 battery pack!?!"
I ask them "when's the last time you priced a dealer replacement engine, you know... with an actual executeable warranty on the engine & labor?"
If we're going to actually compare even appples to oranges...one first needs to price the orange...
Definitely true. Batteries are also gaining economies of scale and technology improvements that will keep driving costs down. Engines are experiencing diseconomies of scale as fewer ICE vehicles are being sold globally so will become more expensive over time.
I think that's a brilliant comment.
A friend of mine dropped over $11k to fix some mechanical stuff (not engine/transmission) on a 2012 Nissan frontier truck, ok
@@Joe44944 he needs to take a piss test
@tHebUm18 will the economies of scale work when there's no lithium or the other non renewable service gone from all the batteries
@@mikehurt3290 The known deposits of lithium on earth, which we haven't even been looking for until recently so there's a lot more out there, is easily enough to replace 100% of the roughly 2 billion fossil fuel powered vehicles with current battery tech. In fact, it could more than double it. The resource extraction necessary for 4 billion EVs is less than just the fossil fuels needed to maintain the existing vehicle fleet (in tonnage extracted).
Lithium is very abundant. Lithium prices have dropped considerably and are expected to drop considerably more. Current lithium extraction is often done boiling pools of water which takes a long time and only recovers around 30%, plenty of research into methods using osmosis to capture 90% in a tiny fraction the time. Lithium doesn't make up that much of the battery pack by mass, it's mostly more common materials like iron and nickel, the same used in an engine.
There's also sodium ion batteries which may replace lithium ion for many purposes using the same salt that's on your fries (see: unimaginably abundant and easy to get).
Lastly, EV batteries are easily recyclable where fossil fuels are obviously not recyclable at all. Eventually EVs will require no mining because it'll just be upcycling old batteries into new ones.
A battery health test can be performed by entering Service Mode and navigating to the High Voltage menu. From there, tap Health Test in the HV Battery section.
This is awesome that you started this channel. My parents own a '24 Tesla Model 3. They absolutely enjoy it. Brandon, I can confirm the supercharger is a non-issue. When people take them long distances and place their destination in the GPS, the GPS never takes the Tesla outside of a supercharger route. It will always direct you to one. The superchargers are awesome and have always been a great experience. It does not cost much to charge a Tesla, way cheaper than gas. Power and especially torque is also a huge pro with Tesla vehicles. Additionally, the amount of superchargers and service centers is ever-increasing at a rapid rate.
and Superchargers are EVerywhere. In rural Nova Scotia, 120 miles from the nearest city, Supercharger sites are 60 miles apart. Tesla installed destination chargers on main street (pop. 550) several years ago...
It costs me zero to charge my Tesla overnight with my Electric company. It is a factor in keeping me living where I do.
There might be a lot of them now but they are no longer increasing, the whole super charger team got cut by Elon
Lifetime ICE car enthusiast. Converted to EV and opened up to a whole new world. Absolutely love them.
I like it. You represent most buyers. Unsure but curious. Your experiences will definitely help the next buyers make decisions.
You can check the battery label. It’s visible behind the passenger front wheel. If the serial number ends with Rx, it’s a refurb, and X is the number of times it’s been refurbished.
Tesla investor here. I did not know that overnight on a 110 volt you could get over 100 miles with 10+ hours. I only drive 20 miles a day. Someday I will buy one after I get sick of my 14 year old Ford Fusion. Always nice to have ZERO dollar car payments!
The 110 volt charging you’ll get about 5 miles of charger per hour!
Car is not an investment… unless it’s a rare collectible, Tesla’s are junk.
We've been charging our model Y off a 110V plug for 3 years. Surprisingly it's been more than enough. Only need to go 220V if you drive like 80 miles a day every day. If you only drive 30 miles a day and some days drive 200 miles, then 110V will still be plenty as it will catch up over days. I will upgrade to 220V when we haev 2 EVs at home. If you have the means, the EV will save a ton of money and hassle and deliver a MUCH better driving experience of smoothness, quietness and immense acceleration and control.
@@ewenblack4174he’s referring to a shareholder owner, that’s common sense.
Bro....I also have a 10 year old fusion and I'm looking at Tesla. I have the Fusion hybrid, which is not great but not terrible. I haven't had a car payment for 8 years after buying the Fusion used. I'm just worried about longevity with Tesla. What state will it be in at 14 years.
Please please drive with percentage of charge and not millage. The millage never been precise in any EV AND ICE cars I drove.
With consistent driving the mileage will get better over time. I find it to be the least consistent in ICE cars. After a few weeks my EV mileage is pretty rock solid. But I massage the throttle. I’m never in a rush anywhere
@@TheSonyExperienceyeah I use the Chevy bolt it gives accurate mileage
Driving with percentages is better. I have a model y and a bolt euv. Hate that the bolt doesn’t show soc.
@@APatchworkCanvas I drove a model 3 for about 2 years when you hit zero percent you still have range the miles become more accurate at that point
Exactly. We don’t see how many minutes we have on our cell phones. If I don’t use my phone, it’ll have a billion minutes lol. But once I use it l, it goes down to thousands of minutes. Use that same scenario with EV’s. Use percentage. Not miles.
I got a '21 used Tesla M3 SR+ and had battery loss similar to your's. Driving I was losing way more battery than what I had expected. About 3 weeks later, the battery failed and Tesla replaced it with a brand new LFP battery. Not refurbished, but brand new for free. My range went from 168 miles at 80% with the NMC battery to 263 miles with the LFP battery. I don't lose as much of a charge on hot days driving like you did in your video with the new battery. This is in Vegas at 110F. I thought it was the heat like you. I would get it tested before you drive it over 100,000 miles.
People are too focused on EPA range. Just plug in each night and don't worry about the estimated range. The range wildly changes based on speed that you go and how hard you are on the accelerator. All Tesla's have minimum 8 year 100k warranty on motor and battery. For the model S/X its 150k miles. I have driven over 200k miles in EV's. Don't pay attention to estimated range since that is EPA estimate.
How about uber drivers? At least, I need 400 miles of range
@@Toronto6your not the target demographic for a tesla then
I bought my 2021 model 3 Tesla used from Tesla in February of this year with 35k miles on it. In July I had to take it to the service center because it needs a battery replacement. On the plus side they gave me a loaner Tesla while they’re working on it and I have to pay $0.00 out of pocket and when I get it back, I’ll have a brand new battery…On the negative side it’s almost September and they’re still working on it
How did you know you needed a replacement
@@ScottyMarley-nx9rc The car wouldn’t charge. Whenever I would plug it in. It would say charging complete. I also had an error notification on the screen that said to take the car to a service center for the battery. They told me I needed the replacement when I took it in.
Sadly the battery will be a refurbished one.
Will be a refurbished battery
@@keeppushin6725 lol its still the same and you still get the warranty
Your driving style plays a part in percentages of battery usage
😁😁😁 and top speed.
8:21 232Wh/mi isn't exactly flooring it.
I’ve owned a Tesla for a year now, and I have found that you have to change your mindset from one of est range, to one as you would with your phone in terms of a batteries percentage,as it’s the battery percentage that gives you a much better idea of where you can go. Because an EV has much smaller energy storage than a gas powered vehicle, for instance, the model three probably only has an equivalent of 2 gallons of gas in terms of its energy storage. So any additional loads such as driving aggressively or at higher speeds or with the AC on will have a much greater impact on your range than in a gas vehicle because it makes up a larger percentage of the total energy available. In terms of charging your Tesla EV at home I put up with a 120 V outlet for three months and it was a total pain in the ass. You have to get either a 240 V outlet or the dedicated wall connector. My only gripe with my Tesla model Y is that I only get around 200 miles of highway range at 80 mph, or around 265 miles at 60 to 65 mph. I would like to see any EV with a real world 400 mile highway range.
Good news, the Lucid Air gets nearly 500 miles of highway range (courtesy of the Out of Spec channel). You may have to fork over about $80k, tho.
It’s not a brand new battery… it’s refurbished
It depends on if they had refurbs available when the SC ordered it. Sometime you’re lucky and you you get a new battery… most of the times, you’re not.
As far as I know from searching... new batteries are only available for new cars.
If it is an older car, then you will definitely receive a refurbished battery.
If the car is new, for example, up to a year, you may get a new battery, but the chances are maybe 1%.
I know a case where the owner replaced 2 batteries in less than two years, luckily the batteries were under warranty.
That's what I don't like about EVs, you pay ex: 15k, and the battery isn't even new, just replaced cells and tested.
If you want you can do your own research, I'm not going to search the web again...🙂
@@dchubworldsharenetwork refurbished batteries have been thouroughly tested. New batteries come out of the line so you can expect a lot from a refurbished battery.
@dchubworldsharenetwork and the cells are used ones from other packs. They match the voltages for the repairs. Basically, matching the degradation. Definitely NOT refurbished... that's very misleading... just repaired. Their's a big difference
They certainly charge you as if you were getting a new battery!!!
Yes, I know that.... but it's still not new.
Two batteries have exactly the same problem, and the "new" battery shows the same error message after a year.
You're not going to convince me the battery was new or whatever you want to do. Nope 🥂🥂
Forgot... the third battery worked normally for 4+ years.
I bought a 2016 P90DL+ with 120k miles of it. Absolutely ROCK SOLID!! This thing is sooo clean, and holding up sooo good that, I am still in disbelief! ! Battery range, 296 miles when I charge to 100%, based on my driving behavior! Only thing I had to replace was 2 door handles, to version 3.0. I guess, every time they (Tesla) makes a new improvement on the handles, they name the upgrade. Anyways, that was expected but besides that, for an 8 Y/O vehicle with, well over 100k miles, I am very happy with it and planning on keeping it for a few more years!!
How much was it when you bought and was it directly from Tesla website?
did they replace the battery ?
The trim problem may be a missing or broken fastener. The Toyota fasteners are about the same size and can be purchased at auto parts stores.
You can run a battery diagnostic on the battery and it's in the service menu of the car and it let you know how much degradation the battery has experienced so far. Snd also you may not need a an entire battery change it maybe just a cell or two which intern would cost a lot less
not lot less still cost 6k-8k
Re: battery replacement
A study came out early 2023 that tracked the replacement rate of batteries after a decade of use and for all EVs it was 3-4%, mostly dragged up by the OG Nissan Leaf that had no thermal management system. And that's 2013 technology.
Who paid for the study? And how were they able to collect reliable data from a company like Tesla? Absolutely unreliable data that you cannot rely on.
Recurrent Auto does a nice job giving stats on your EV at no cost.
Thanks for your entertaining and informative videos. I really enjoy your work. A few things about the Teslas. I'm going on 4 years of owning a Model Y. I bought a new one in September of 2020. Then traded it in on a new 2023 Model Y last August. The Tesla models are constantly being improved in many areas like newer tech, better ride quality and cabin noise. You could research the many improvements and they are substantial. So far as the range estimate shown just tap the milage by the battery symbol and it will change to percentage of charge. Whenever you navigate to a destination Tesla will give you the estimated charge level % at your destination and for a round trip. In my experience the percentage is mostly always with in +- 2% depending on the wind and temperature. It could vary more in really cold and wet conditions. The Model Y and newer Model 3's have a heat pump that is more efficient than the old resistance heater. The warranty for the Long Range Model Y & 3 is 8 Years or 120,000 mi for the drive units and the battery, the battery should retain 70% charge. The frequent free software updates with new and improved features keep your car fresh . The first car came with the mobile connector and it has adapters for 120 and 240V . I installed a Dryer plug in my carport and charge at 240V. I'm saving $150 to $175 per month over gas. My monthly electric bill runs $30 to $50 more than before. I bought an extra mobile charger to keep in the car and never had to use it yet. We are a 2 car family and have a gas RAV 4 but usually go in the Tesla because of the FSD tech and the great enertainment system. Best of wishes for you and yours and keep the great content coming.
Insightful, no BS vid. They should just use leather for the steering wheel. I’ve heard of their material splitting on the wheel before. I don’t know why they can’t perform basic QA. I even hear of rattles, panel gaps, etc. on brand new Teslas. I wish we had stats on how quality has improved/declined for Tesla over time.
The new Tesla quality is way better than the 2019's. You are right... they were crap before. My 2023 model y interior is way better then my 2020. My experience all cars have issues... even my 2019 4Runner.
The main difference is your 4Runner can easily last 30 years with basic maintenance. Tesla? You'll be lucky to not replace battery in 8 years, but even in that best outcome scenario you'll have a dud on your hands with very low resale value and diminished range, not to mention tons of other quality issues.
@@danguelph2676 just yesterday I jumped in the 4Runner and it was dead. It was only a dead battery but pretty ironic I had to take the Model Y to Autozone because of a dead battery. I truly love both of those vehicles.
I bought a used 2020 Model 3 from Tesla that needed a lot! That a-pillar trim was falling off, water in the taillights, seat rattle, dead pixel, trunk thunk, brake click and more.
But...., I bought it from Tesla and they come with a 1-year bumper-to-bumper warranty. They fixed EVERYTHING for ZERO DOLLARS. I would recommend buying from them, no b.s. My car is feels like a 100% factory-new car now.
Price?
@@scienceByV $24k with 27k miles
@@jonecleggwow nice one, how do u go about charging it
@@sLaMz1o1 Tesla Mobile charger. I used a 120v for a few months. Honestly, it was fine, but I have a weird setup and my breaker kept flipping. So I had a guy put in a 220v, charges to full in about 6 hours.
I bought a used Model S from Tesla, same thing with trim issues but everything was fixed and covered.
As long as a key is not the size of another wallet or phone, having a real world one that gets you in your car even if you lose, break or run out of charge on your phone can make a huge difference in the flow of a day (or week/month even).
Keeping the cabin overheat protection on will affect the range as well. As it is runing some AC while you are not in it to keep the cabin cooler so when you get in the seats arent super hot. I really enjoy that feature during the summer and dont care about the over the day range hit as I dont drive much daily. The trade off of not sitting in scorching hot seats is a plus in my book. Another thing that will drain some of the battery is sentry mode. I dont use this feature on a daily basis as I know my area and crime is not a big issue here.
The charge thing that got me as a new owner was the sentry mode. I couldn't figure out why I was loosing 7 miles a day just sitting there. Once in awhile it will still get me when someone else drives it and their profile is set to have sentry mode on. So in short, if you are going to drive your car, always check your charge level the night before. One of the GREAT things about owning a Tesla is you get an updated car every 2 to 3 months. You NEVER get that with an ICE. The car you buy is the car you have till it dies. But not Teslas.
Who wants an update every 2 or 3 months?
I got 3 updates on my Hyundai Palisade. Do you think I care for updates? You still have the same car lol.
@@danguelph2676 You often get a BETTER car with Tesla; better camera resolution, adaptive headlights, improved ride quality, better autopilot, parental controls, etc. Is change a PITA? Yes, but it gives you a better vehicle over and over again.
Lots of software. @@wizzyno1566
If you're referring to OTA updates, that's purely software....most modern cars have OTA updates.
My wife and I both have model 3s and share a slow charger. Been great so far
As an industry whole, what is the percentage of engines that have to be replaced under warranty before 100K?
Good question! If it is a Kia/Hyundai 2.4L the answer is "Lots of them!". (Granted, that's not a hard number OR percentage.) As good as Toyotas normally are, apparently the new Tundra V6 turbos are NOT good, either.
Bro one thing most Tesla users know is that we don’t use the mileage statuses we use the percentage which is way more accurate.
Bingo
Same thing happened when Prius first came out. They were saying the Prius batteries will be expensive to replace. A 2005 Prius battery new was worth like $10k back then. Now it’s worth 1-3k and the battery is far more superior.
Prius is a great car, Tesla's aren't
@@sinistersilverado965oh, I assume you loved the first Prius model and thought it was great and looked cool. Your tag name gives away your bias man.
Early model 3’s were not well built. I like the new Highland version though. That will hold up well.
Lots of lessons learned. Also, new production methods.
The early FREMONT cars weren't as good.
The CHINESE and GERMAN cars were fine.
🤔🤔
I agree but even my early Model 3 is still going strong for me after 100k km , a bit noisy on the highway maybe but no rattles yet and basically no maintenance it's crazy. Just tires and wiper blades/fluid. Looking into a second hand 2018 model 3 for the wife right now, based on how my car has held up over the years. It's a steal. It does help that we can charge on solar basically for free, tbh.
@@rogerstarkey5390 Fremont is where all the lessons were learned.
Yep. that’s what Elon says so you know it’s true.
Wife and I live in Charlotte and we bought a new 2023 Tesla Model Y LR last June from Tesla. The car currently has 17,407 miles on it and it has cost us $802 dollars so far to drive those 17,407 miles. This includes some supercharging but not much, we do 90 percent of our charging at home (level 2 charger I installed in our garage) and a few places have free charging when you stay at their hotel/campground. The app Tesla on your phone will keep track of the charging cost as long as you update the cost of electricity where you live. If you average out the cost per mile it has cost us about .046 cents a mile to drive this car. You will easily spend $35 to $60 dollars a week in fuel cost (gasoline) depending on what you drive and how much you drive (gasoline car or truck can cost anywhere between 10 to 20 cents a mile for gasoline). You can recharge a Tesla for about 60 dollars a month (or less) (that averages about 10-15 dollars a week). We regularly drive to Gastonia, Indian Trail and Waxhaw to visit or kids and grandkids from near Harrisburg. Trips to Myrtle Beach are no problem and we can arrive with about 120 miles remaining on the battery (or more) after we arrive at the campground. As far as maintenance goes, other than windshield wiper fluid we have not spent anything on the car. At 80 percent charge the car will show about 250 miles on the display and depending on how much driving we only need to charge about every three days. Most people are not going to drive over about 60 miles a day and home charging with a 240 volt charger. EV's will not work for everyone but I would estimate that 70 percent of the people that currently drive a gasoline car and don't require a large SUV/truck could save thousands of dollars every year if they would change over to an EV. Battery life will be the biggest worry people have on these cars and over time it will get better as the cars age and the true life becomes known. Looks like a good opportunity for you if you can find a good source of replacement batteries and can offer / give the customers a small warranty with each new car sold. Basically when you replace the battery you have an almost new car. It will be interesting to see how this new market develops.
I agree with you 100%. I got a 23 Model 3 for a steal and have been so impressed with the car. Plenty of speed, comfort, smoothness and luxury. Drove from Greenville to Johnson City with no issues with range anxiety. Don’t miss my ice vehicle.
I bought Tesla the moment Elon got red-pilled. Must support the good cause.
How can you sleep at night with a car ready to spontaneously combust? 🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥
I drive similar size RAV4 Hybrid 2023. I'm ironically sitting at almost exact as yours 17,574 miles. It has cost me $1192 dollars for gas. It's been more than a year and I only spent $387 more than you have. That's about only $32 per month more. And on positive side I can travel 550 miles on one tank and refuel in 5 min!! I'm so much enjoying my freedom ad ability to refuel in 5 min anywhere I go!! It's incredible. Oh did I mention that $32 per month difference is more than compensated by much cheaper insurance? I pay $48 per month for my Geico insurance. I'm sure you pay a lot more and total with electricity it comes more than I spent per month! So you see I pay less in total and have more freedom!!! Oh did I mention that my Toyota will last 2-3 times as long? Ad did you know that tires for EV will wear a lot faster and they cost a lot more? I feel like I'm already ahead, but as time goes I'll pile up so much cost savings compared to your Tesla that it's mind blowing.
Not reading all that
Love the accurate info. One clarification on the battery replacement, to put it in ICE terms, you wont necessarilly pay the dealership 15k for a new motor, you'll spend a couple grand rebuilding your engine. Same with batteries, replacing the whole battery is expensive but there are more and more places popping up that can repair individual modules instead
Well said! And with over 6,000,000 model 3&Y who use the same packs already out there?
It's no doubt an aftermarket will spring up for replacing and or repairing them!
One aftermarket place run by x tesla employees already offers model s x and roadster pack's for 20-40% cheaper than tesla prices.
I bet a basic model 3 or Y pack replacement will be about 8k with a 5yr+replacement warranty by 2028 or sooner.
Of course with your old pack as a trade in&labor might ad a bit more to it.
Tesla is also offering a cheap upgrade to a new lfp pack for the nmc base sr 3&Y that are getting older now.
Inc a set of new rear springs to account for the weight difference. With a full new 8yr 100k warranty to!
@@4literv6 yes you'll desperately need that 40% off of a $20-30k pack lol
Just some notes.
Tesla replaces the battery under warranty up to 8 years or 150K miles on the S and X. Some got used as opposed to new batteries.
There is a site that has plotted the battery life for 1000s of Tesla batteries. One can see where the cars get battery changes by a jump in capacity. More data on S and X as they have been on the road longer. Sorry but I forget the channel.
They actually don’t give you a replacement up to 8 years.
@@kkent4174
Where's your data/ proof of that?
@@kkent4174 Source?
I was going to make my own comment but you hit on what I was going to write - the 2019 M3 has 8 years/100k miles battery warranty. As you said the S/X are typically even better.
Battery replacement cost will go down significantly as they scale production.
I am curious if he sees this comment - what % of ICE vehicles have a transmission/engine issue within 100k miles? Also, if you factor in maintenance cost savings (including fuel) what would your savings be at 100k miles assuming a battery costs $15k and a new engine or transmission is easily $3k each. Either way it makes for an interesting calculation.
It's interesting how when people hear that 2 Teslas have had their batteries replaced leads to an "EVs aren't ready and are expensive to maintain because batteries" but when a Range Rover has to have its whole engine replaced after 30.000km it doesn't lead to an "Ice cars are unreliable and expensive to maintain" kind of argument.
That's because Range Rover is known to be most unreliable brand lol. Toyota 4Runner or RAV4 lasts 20-30 years. Even best EV will be at its end cycle in 8 years.
@@danguelph2676 the problem with your statement, apart from being false, is that it is highly uninformed. There are Teslas on the road that've been running since 2012 and still going with over 300.000km and no major issues whatsoever. That's 12 years, in case you need to do the math.
@@danguelph2676my 2013 Nissan leaf is still going after 11 yrs
Remember you can NEVER rationalize with a fool.
You can use your Phone to open and start the Model S . No key needed either. I have a 2015 P90D
My Brother-in-law has a 2017 Model S and uses his iPhone as a key.
On the 110v hookup your house delivers about 1.4kWh to the car. 1.4 kWh times 14 hours = essentially 20kWh. That's how much gas was delivered to the tank, 20 kWh. Typical cost for electrons is about 10¢/kWh, or $2.00 for the 80-100 miles your 20kWh deliver.
I have an 2024 tesla and its very accurate on range estimation.
Having a wall charger is the best option so you can keep your mobile in the vehicle.
I bought a used Tesla and love it.
me too
What year?
@@mrbamz211 2019 Tesla Model 3
Me too. 22 performance 3.
There used to be a sticker plug to cover the tail light condensation that would need to be replaced. Hair dryer can dry it out and then replace that plug. Not sure if still the case.
I read online that the headlights at least are vented which allows for condensation to enter and exit the headlight, making the condensation somewhat normal as long as it doesn’t stay if for long periods of time. I wonder if the same venting exists for the tail lights?
You are asking that the gauges be accurate. They are not in an ICE car nor are they in a EV. At 8:21 you show that you drove 66 mi and used 232 WH. That means you are getting 4.31 miles per kWh. That was probably the model 3. MPG is effected by how heavy your foot is as well as other things. Miles per kWh is the same. The only thing that is accurate in the gauges are your speed as well as the battery percent level, not the RANGE.
This is why I argue with my wife, I put the car into showing percentage. I know that we average around 3.6 miles per kWh. So if I see it at 20%, I know I have about 70ish miles of range. AKA, I treat it like a CAR where the gas gauge shows 1/4, 1/2, 3/4 a tank.
The battery issue - dude, get over it. Batteries are RARELY replaced. At 100k miles, you may see 1 out of 10000 cars having a battery be replaced. At 200k miles, you still rarely see batteries replaced. There has to be a compelling reason to replace the battery. Stop thinking this is an engine. An engine blows and YOU HAVE to replace it. A battery degrades and it just means you have to charge more often, the car still goes.
Let’s talk build quality 😊, I have bought 4 Teslas,2021, 2022 and 23 model 3 L.R AND 2024 model Y, in my limited experience I always took an inspection check list to check for things like moisture in taillights, trim alignment etc and never did I find anything. I heard build quality was an issue as they were ramping up production. If I could afford it I would certainly buy an S.
My 13 chevy silverado 1500s with 5.3 V8 1/3 needed motor by 150k and 2/3 needed Trans by $80k together the cost is $14500
One thing on the road/wind noise: around 2020-2021 the Model 3 added noise canceling glass in the front that helps a ton. Had a loaner Model Y without it and it makes a world of difference. The new refreshed Model 3 (2024) has noise canceling glass all around and is supposed to be much, much quieter still.
Also: can't speak for your doors not closing all the way, but if you try with a decibel meter you'll likely find it's generally much quieter at highway speeds than many ICE vehicles.
Forget about looking at mileage, pay attention to presentages. Unless you are a road warrior you don't need to worry about range.
The true test if a BEV is right for you in terms of range: put a piece of tape over the displayed battery range. Use it like a normal car throughout the day and then plug it in at night. Does it get you where you need to go? Does it matter if you use 50% or 20% or 70% of the range per day, but it still gets you everywhere you want and need to go? It’s a matter of personal choice. Of course the tape method is more of a mental exercise rather than a literal thing to do, but it pretty normal for a person new to EVs to be concerned about it. If it’s a dealbreaker, then it’s a dealbreaker. If you can get over it mentally, it’s fine.
Some days we put 20 miles on our M Y. Other days I drive Uber and do 200+ miles with 7 hours of continuous Uber driving. It’s all fine. If I need more range I can stop at a local supercharger, but I rarely need to do that.
My wife and I both charge off of a single 120 charger. Her car is in the garage and then when I charge, I run the cable under the garage door. No issues. I always leave sentry mode on just in case there is ever an issue. I also have lights on the front of my house to deter any mischief.
Especially older model S had battery and engine problems, they needed to be replaced often, BUT with modern model 3 this isn't a big problem. And you have warranty on the battery for 8 years and 120k miles...
Uh, Teslas don’t have engines bruh.
Autopilot is intended for freeway driving. It's the free software that comes with the car.
If you're going to do anything that requires the car to lane change or follow beyond guided lines on both sides then get a FSD subscription.
I respect that you're a genuine dude with good intentions so I know you're not trying to blame the software. In this case it's user error. 🙂
A note on range....the computer can only predict future range performamce based on past driving history (like the stock market). If you've spent the last 400miles driving in town on a temperate day (70f) and after charging it gives you an estimated range of 450miles, dont expect 450miles when your next trip is on a 70mph interstate on a 100f day.
Think EV mileage opposite of ICE mileage, where ICE sucks in town and excels on highway, an EV sucks on highway and excels in town. (Your milage may vary)
Your kWh average is lile MPH, the lower it goes the better range you can expect.
Finally someone that actually understands the complexity of the range calculation! Well explained! Another component that makes a difference is that older batteries may deteriorate in capacity, for a M3 (w/ 57.5kwh for standard range) that could be a possible reduction to 46 kwh (80% of the original capacity), yet the BMS will indicate it has fully charged when the voltage reaches the maximum threshold for it's lithium battery module of 350V. The charger must stop charging when it reaches that voltage or bad things can happen to the battery, but that doesn't mean it has filled up the car with 57.5 kwh of power. The car estimates how much power is in the battery based on the original power capacity brand new times the battery voltage (which is a side-ways S curve where the voltage fluctuates very little in the middle but by a lot on the top & bottom). It then divides this estimate of power stored in the battery by the average efficiency of your last few trips to get an estimated mileage. This explains why as the voltage starts to drop in the last 1/3rd of the battery SOC, the mileage may show less distance traveled than what the estimate-of-an-estimate indicated. IOW, your battery is diminishing in size as it ages & accumulates mileage, which would be similar to your gas tank shrinking as you own the vehicle. Lastly, LFP batteries are recommended to be charged to 100% & discharged frequently to the last 10-20% so that the power capacity can be estimated (due to different chemistry). The takeaway is that the car's software doesn't have a 100% accurate estimate of the amount of energy/KWh in the battery, but is estimating from various voltage or metering systems, and therefore when coupled with estimates of efficiency (how aggressive you drive & other factors (temp, etc)) the calculations have a 2nd order compounding margin of error.
This youtube video is one of the most informative Tesla review I have seen. I am a very grateful viewer! Thank you.
I agree, if we knew the battery has been changed it’s a huge plus for higher mileage cars.
Good review. I have a 2021 MYLR 7 seat. 133k on the clock. I did have the main battery replaced. Good thing with my year the warranty went upto 120k miles. It was replaced at 108k miles. Runs awesome. I think the issue is that I was charging it to 100 percent every day and it caused a cell in the battery to becom3 unbalanced. The techs was able to determine that. It's ok to charge to 100 for a few days for trips, but it's best to do a max of 95 percent. Daily I do 80%. Original brakes. I've done some mods to mine. Bought it brand new. I've talked to people who have tesla who are over 100k miles, they key is to not charge to max all the time. Also with range, think of it as a math sign wave. What I've noticed it may say your range is less than what it is, but I've noticed it depends on how you drive. Keep the speed below or at 70 and no hard launches, which is no fun. Lol . But with a sign wave the beginning it's a climb up to the top and a fast drop to the bottom on the other side. What I've seen is that whe. You aroun 40 to 60 percent it seems to either charge really fast or you drain fast but once your past 40 percent the charge drain slowly. I hope anything I said helps. But honestly I just drive it like normal and enjoy the drive.
If the transmission is slipping... time to replace it with a new car. Let the next guy deal with it. Battery is dying? Time to replace it with a new car. Let the next guy deal with it. Same logic.
Transmission doing fine at 200k miles? Keep going.
Battery doing fine at 200k miles? Keep going.
I expect most "used" EVs have a problem. Just like Gas cars.
It is a very easy to check the battery. Charge it to 100% and take a picture of the screen with the date.
If the car should have 224 miles and it only has 130 miles at 100%, something is wrong. :)
Transmission rebuild would still be considerably cheaper than all those options
Replacing battery modules instead of the whole pack would be considerably cheaper.
Tesla has a battery test mode - which you run the battery down to 0% and it will charge it back to 100% and inform you the battery health.
It is a lengthy process and occasionally fails.
This don't fix anything and just get new is why we are in the resource problem we're now in. Repair when you can, put off replacement until absolutely necessary. Our world and future generations will thank you.
@@allenbaylus3378 Sure you can waste 20 hours or you can just charge to 100% and take a picture. Do it your way if you want. Mine is faster and just about as accurate. Hope the dealer lot has a good charge point for you and they are willing to let you do it. Also, it is not good for the battery to run that test very often. I am sure the dealership won't mind though. Like how you test a gas car by maxing the RPMs for 10 seconds before you buy? Just floor it for 10 seconds. If it breaks, something was wrong. Don't buy it. Right?
I am usually within 5 miles of estimated range on my 2023 model 3. My commute to work is 48 miles one way. If your range was 40 miles off, you had a lead foot on that "gas pedal".
One consideration when charging. You should charge your battery once in a while to 100% so the car can recalculate range.. this is how the battery management system recalibrates itself.
LiFePo4 packs "Like" A 100% calibration charge every week or so.
.
The rule with a Nickel based pack is keep it low (as low as 60 20%) if you are an "Average" driver ("15 miles per day")
.
*IF* you occasionally have a "capacity length trip", aim for the 95-100% charge to end just before you leave.
Im not sure since regen braking. Max i do id 94%
Not needed with the cobalt batteries. LFP batteries yes this is true
He's not talking about it helping the cells. He's referring to the battery management system. Every cell in the vehicle is monitored. So charging up full once a month will help calibrate the BMS and help balance out the cells in the modules. If it's to outa balance, it'll throw a code. The Tesla service centers don't do repairs on the battery, they will only replace. So keeping that BMS happy is well worth it.
Definitely would recommend the vehicles to be put through a battery health test in the service menu option. It should take anything between 8 to 24 hours depending on battery percentage and how big the battery is but I will give you a more accurate representation of how much battery depleted it has. The panels that are falling apart that is due to really cheap clips they could be reordered through Tesla or just bought separately. And in order to get the most range put it on chill mode and just watch the acceleration and all the other options.
Thank you again for this show.
Steering wheel disintegrating and chair trim separation both happened in my mercedes E class, which I bought brand new. The mercedes wood trim all faded to pink and became a recall item. A 2019 Model 3 is early model year, our 2021 Model 3 has no build quality issues at all. None. But the big difference is the drivetrain. Twin turbo V8 420hp Mercedes used to feel smooth and fast - but even the base Model 3 absolutely blows away the Mercedes on smoothness and instant power, one hundred percent better drivetrain and responsiveness. Not a fan of the grey plastic interior of the Tesla, but that is my only gripe. Cost was 1/10 per mile the cost of gassing the Mercedes.
10:23 for the Model S/X, $15-17k is for a refurb battery, new is $20-22k Model 3/Y are quite a bit cheaper for replacements though.
Are those prices with labor? Asking because a neighbor was quoted $26k from Tesla for his model S battery, also I think it’s a smaller battery, 75 vs 85kWh
Older model 3 you have to readly use the car daily to get the capacity to go up over time because tesla is adjusting software and recalculating the capacity. Fast chargers will throw off the bms by 10 miles and the car will adjust capacity to reflect real usable range.
Fair and balanced. New sub!
Great video. Love the bloopers at the end.
Great stuff!
Thanks man!
A good way to also measure Tesla battery health is by going to the service menu and running the HV battery health test. It also recalibrates the calculated range and lets you know the current battery health. The way the test works is it'll run your motors and heat to drain the battery and then measure how many kWh it took to fully charge it again. Does take up to 24 hours tho- Service menu is easily accessible by the user.
Good report thank you
The warranty for the battery on the Teslas is 8 years or 120k miles btw. It's a full warranty
2:29 my 3 155k miles and mine is solid nothing falling off like that.
Don't waste your time, it is just BS anti-EV, just to make views.
What year is yours
@@lui9695 2018 vin# 12000
@@lui9695 18’
You can do a battery test under service to tell you the battery health percentage.
Any battery changes at less than 100k miles will cost the owner NOTHING. The MINIMUM battery/drive train warranty is 8 years/100k miles. Many have 8 years/120k miles.
Exactly ! Tesla says it will do battery upgrades to all vehicles that fail under warranty .
Got both of mine for 8 years 120000, plus who the hell keeps their cars after 5 years realistically?! I don't.
@@christiannavarro2498it seems in the modern market between repairs and depreciation the sweet spot for offloading most ICE cars is 95K. If I find a 3 year old car with 20K miles, 75K/6 years is 15K miles, which is what the average American drives each year. The unknown right now is how many years/miles will folks who buy these cars be looking for in battery warranty and how it impacts the depreciation curve. Will an Ioniq 5 or a Tesla 3 with 110K miles and 12 years have the value of a 2008 Camry? How does someone get a battery PPI? That’s the great long term unknown.
@@christiannavarro2498 Well la ta de da for you.
Still more hassle than it`s worth. Dealing with tesla dealers is a bitch so good luck actually getting that warranty work in real life. 😂
I havent read all the comments here, but as the original owner of a older tesla, another important battery metric is how fast it charges at a supercharger. SC charging rates are lowered for the older cars and can affect wait times on road trips. If you want to use one for a lot of road trips and use the SC network, check to see how fast it charges from, lets say, 20 to 80 percent on a supercharger. :)
Auto trader has a good video series on YT on a 2017 Model S with over 430k miles on same battery and drivetrain.
might outlast me, not sure I'm good for 400K miles
Prices will start to go back up on used Teslas once people get past the FUD of thinking you must get a new battery. Time will prove this. Most could get 400k miles out of these with same battery.
Not a chance. The ONLY thing that will save EVs is better battery technology and better charging infrastructure.
@@remyllebeau77 I fully expect almost all Tesla cars built after 2018 to last more than 500k miles. Most will last 750k miles. Just because the range has went from 224 new all the way down to 178 after 20 years does not mean the car stopped working or is not getting almost 120mpge!
Do you have to replace the engine of any car that goes from 28mpg to 25mpg? On a 16 gallon tank that is a range decrease from 448 miles down to 400!
Tell that to the rideshare drivers 😂
my 2018 x got replacement battery at 90k miles
How's the rust protection on these? Most cars rust out over time. I live in a dry area so cars last decades! I've been driving the same car for 42 years.
if you buy from Tesla inventory they give you a 1yr/10k limited warranty or if it still under warranty they extend it. Have you found a way to check for the unusual, like sticking a camera probe under the motor covers to notice if it's gone through puddles? can you review any store video to see how that last owner drove it?
Batteries are going to last around 800k miles. The car will fall apart long before that.
Don't think the issue is with the battery working or not, it's about the capacity.
At some point you can convert it to a movie theater and park it somewhere scenic
It's so cool seeing a breakdown like this then comparing it to the stuff they've been making. Pretty significant improvements in ~5 years of production
If you buy from Tesla used inventory, you get a year warranty.
And you will pay a significant premium for buying a used Tesla directly from Tesla. Better deals are person to person but that also drives up the risk because you will not be able to check history and background. It isn't like you can take it down the street to your favorite auto shop to checkout the systems like you can an ICE vehicle. Everything has a plus or a minus. Kind of like life.
how does that help the huge panel gap issues
that's it? lmao
You're wrong. Tesla gives financing without a down payment at 1.99%
Your lower range at the end of the day vs actual miles used is probably due to Cabin Protection Mode and Sentry Mode. If it was a hot day your AC was keeping the interior at 100F. Both can be tuned off in the app.
Bull Shit on new Tesla's bad build issues are from liars!!! I have a 4 day Model 3 Performance. It is perfect, in every way. The build issue in my wife's Model Y is perfect as well.
You need to be in EPA rated efficiency on your drive to match shown range on the screen. Even if you do that it drops faster since Tesla hides energy below zero miles indicated. It does this by showing you pessimistic range number on the screen.
My suggestion: just switch to % SoC instead of miles and plug in every time you got home. If you dont have a home charger ABC always be charging whenever you see a charger
man, please, DROP THE BACKGROUND MUSIC. For people like me, with some sort of attention crazy disorder, that background music fuchs up everything. Please drop it.
I thought it was fine, made the video not worse.
You replaced the battery on S. It will take some time for the Tesla software to adjust and give you accurate range. Right now it will give you the old battery range.
People don't drive 300 miles every day. In 240v charge at 24A you gain 30 miles per hour so with in 10 hours you fully charge it. I keep mine charged at 70% and don't go under 30%
I have not use Super charger yet because home charge is good enough and I am not driving morethen 50 miles a day
Don’t kid yourself, I’ve been a mechanic for 40 years , i bought my mod 3 Tesla , 3 years ago. ITS the BEST car I’ve ever owned! And I’ve owned everything virtually 😊😊😊 get off your ass and try yourself. You won’t be disappointed 😊😊😊
just got a 24 one and I'm pumped :D
Will it las at least 15 years?
@@jimmyvillatoro170 10 for sure but honestly the best thing is to use it then sell it afterwards
Lot's of videos available of older Teslas with lots of fit issues and paint issues unfortunately. My 2023 Model Y Performance came from the CA plant and didn't have any fit issues but it did come with quite a paint defects (black). The car is now 18 months old and I don't have any additional problems to report. No major wind noise, road noise, suspension noise or trim clips failing. However, some of the interior is easy to mark up with shoes, backpacks, soccer gear so we will see how it holds up over time. Carpet is low quality material so get some really good floor mats (I like the 3D MAXpider). I knew all this going into the purchase. It isn't a luxury vehicle but it is super fast and fun to drive and also works great to tote the kids around. Just know what you are buying. Charging has been very consistent.
I also agree with other comments to keep your eye on the battery percentage and not the mileage range. You can also use the navigation to get a continuous estimate as to how much battery charge you have left. It takes a little while to get a feeling for how far you can go and what to do when you go even further (e.g. super charge).
You should be able to check for several stickers and VIN numbers to determine if a battery has been replaced on a Tesla. If you do a Google search you will find info on how to do this.
As a general rule, heat is the real culprit in killing battery life, just ask anyone who lives in Vegas.
It is definitely big if you can cool/heat it before unplugging. Conditioning the car in extreme hot or cold while not plugged in eats range as it's using a lot and not moving.
Switch to % by tapping on the range number on the top of the screen, like a cell phone. Then rely on the energy display and click on consumpton. The instant range estimate you see there is nearly perfect because it rates your range based on consumption. You'll see the graph spike all over the place depending on how crazy you drive. Also, if you use navigation, it bases your estimated range on this consumption figure as well, so it's accurate.
It's good you got a Tesla with a fresh battery, you got a steal if $20,000 is all you paid. I think battery failures are more frequent than Tesla wants us to believe, but I'm sure if Ford had a 2x or 3x longer powertrain warranty to match Teslas, you would see the same thing with engine or transmission rebuilds/replacements. For these high mileage cars out of warranty, the battery needing replacement will 'total' the car. But the same is the case for a Nissan or a Ford. They probably aren't worth it in many cases.
I'd also recommend you check out the app ScanMyTesla and buy an OBDII to bluetooth scanner (some models might require an adapter too since federal regulations don't require pure electrics to have OBDII so Tesla doesn't include them). WIth this, you can pull the specs on the car, understand how often they were fast charged, know how many charge cycles were on it, and determine if it's got a new battery or not.
If you want to provide maximum value to your customer, scoop up those cars with fresh batteries. That's the way to buy a used high mileage Tesla. The cars themselves are very reliable.
Love watching this journey from the perspective of a business owner. Mechanics and dealerships will have to make this move whether they want to or not, it's cool seeing businesses taking the first steps, analyzing cost and value- I find this under the hood stuff of businesses to be interesting.
"If it was off by 10%, I'd be okay with that". Battery range estimate is off by 10% (30 miles): "Wow, this is a big negative" 🙂Nothing wrong with the range estimate on that Model 3. Saying that Tesla range estimates are optimistic is an understatement. Their range estimates are based on perfect EPA test conditions that are difficult to achieve in real-world use.
On a perfect day, 70 degrees F, 60 miles per hour on the highway. No A/C or heating, no big heavy load or towing, your range is 30% to 80% ( 50% of the 100% charge range ).
It’s that simple folks.
You should charge at 30% to 80% for minimal degradation
Hoping I can get into an EV soon 😅 I recently got a 2020 Honda Accord for nearly the price of a new Tesla 😢 My gf ordered the 2024 Model 3.
Checking it out in store, it’s such a nice ride. Really good quality inside. Leather seats, powered seats, leather steering, soft touch plastics, a light bar, quiet cabin, bucket seats, nice big responsive screen, etc.
Seriously I feel like a dumbass for buying a used vehicle even if it is nice. A new Tesla wasn’t that much more expensive. The purchase experience was a so easy. 15-20 mins the car was ordered and paperwork for financing you do through their app which you can do at your leisure as long as it’s before a certain date. They even gave us the option to literally test drive the car on our own for like 30 mins. Go drive around and come back. Instead I went to the stupid dealer, spent hours just to get fucked lmao.
You can run a battery diagnostic on the battery and it's in the service menu of the car and it let you know how much degradation the battery has experienced so far
The older Tesla's do not have the heat pump. This might be the reason why your range is overly optimistic.
He's in Carolina and it won't be a problem.
@@outkast40the heat pump also runs the AC, much more efficient for heating AND cooling
A finer detail to point out for people new to Tesla/BEVs: The mobil connector you are using on the 120/240 volt outlet is totally fine. It will give you up to 30 miles of range off of that outlet. If you were to opt for either of the two hardwired Tesla wall connectors using the exact same outlet, you could get up to 44 miles of range per hour of charging. Your setup is totally fine and will work just fine, but if you wanted the maximum amount of juice per hour of charging, a Tesla wall connector would be needed.
There are wall connectors from other brands that can provide even more juice, but the range per hour is then limited by the hardware inside the car at that point. The charger is actually inside the car. That’s why they call it a wall connector and not a charger. But the charger inside the car can only go up to 48A AC. There are some rare early Model S and Model X that have a dual charger setup in the vehicle, so they can get double the range per hour of charging, but Tesla hasn’t made those for a while now, because nobody really needs that much home charging rate capacity. Cheers.
You shouldn't throw that $15k figure around without also mentioning the battery warranty.
I can't thank you enough for doing this. Good luck selling them, especially if they become commercially viable - You're poised very well!!
I was curious about a used one too, but since Elon fell in love with Orange Man, I'd be embarrassed to be seen in one.
My son just bought a Ford lightning base model . It has 240 in range and it isn't a issue . Charges at home or work . Half that 240 is good to go . I drove and it's a better forn if driving with the one pedal technique . Now the lightning has a very good build quality and has great suspension. I think the ride quality is so good because of the weight distribution of the battery when ice vehicles have allot of weight in the the front engine compartment which can cause reverberation on the front wheels . You don't get any of that with the lightning . Best drive I have ever had . Now the tech is probably quite a bit behind Tesla but as suggested Teslas may not be very comfortable to drive and build quality lacking . The reason for the differences one is a car company trying to be a tech company while the other is a tech company is trying to be a car company
You have possibly found a nitch to make some money . If you can figure out what the battery health is you may be into something . The doors and panels are minor fixes .
You maybe able to mechanically be able to tell if a battery was replaced by maybe looking at the panels as you get some evidence of that with scratches and bolt removed and put back in . Another way is how much range is left . If you can get an average degradation of the battery and apply that to the used Tesla it may tell if the battery has been replaced . Another factors is the cars charging speed and how many kw it's using and in the correct range . If the charge is slower than normal or even completing a max charge faster than what would be expected the battery may have some level of negative battery health .
I don't think the EVs of the last few years have problems with batteries and I would say conservatively you can get 150 k of decent battery health . So a car with a 100k on average would have at minimum another 5 years of good battery health .
Your definitely on to something that others are not doing and you get in the ground floor
Higher insurance, higher repair bills, longer repair times, more likely to be written off from an accident, tires don't last as long.
Higher repair bills?