@outofspecreviews You seem extremely knowledgeable in batteries derogation. Can you make a video on best practices for daily charging? I have a 2024 Tesla model three performance I don’t necessarily need it to 80% but I like the performance that comes with it at 80%. is it OK that I charge it to 80% every single day or should I be charging it lower like 65% or 70%
@@johnphillips7894 Every singular data point could be considered anecdotal evidence, but when you can combine a bunch of single anecdotal data points you can start to see a trend that actually matters. So yeah, if everyone wanted to share their "anecdotal evidence" it would go a long way to seeing what these cars are still doing.
It was actually 62.91 kWh if you multiply 233 mi * 0.270Wh/mi. The high degradation is most probably due to a lot of acceleration, fast charging, high state of charge, and high temperatures. I don't think the owner drove gently with it, see all the suspension issues. Also the 4880 kWh regen in ScanMyTesla is a hint to fast driving style. It had almost the same regen like DC charging.
I appreciate that you’re digging into what that battery health number actually means. Hopefully one day this is a number that is required to be reported for used EV sales.
@@KyleConner absolutely. Not sure if it’s already in the works, but it would be interesting to see what kind of range/efficiency gains could be had on this car if you swapped in the new Photon wheels from the new Long Range RWD.
for my understanding is that anytime you buy a used tesla the battery health information is something you can acquire very very very very very easily, compared to other ev's, you just need to learn how to use "service" mode and you'll be good to go, also here in my city if you go shopping used teslas i believe almost if not all used car dealerships did in fact display the actual battery health at 100%
The problem is age alone degrades the battery. That's just the nature of it. The air is going to be a fortune to fix. When your compressor fails, it sends tiny fragments of metal all through the system. Every part will need replacement. 6 year old upper and lower control arms isn't a great sign either.
I would strongly recommend either making sure the damaged compressor cannot run, or replacing it ASAP. If the compressor is sending metal debris into the AC system you need to replace a lot more components and flush others you cannot get to (ones in the dash). Makes the replacement a lot more expensive.
Hi Tijmen, not only have the AC compressor replaced but I would clean the condenser fins on the front and put a screen guard to keep it clean. Debris is often the cause of AC issues and poor AC in hot climate could have also resulted in battery degradation as the pack may not have been kept within normal temps during charging and heavy usage!
@@busog97641 Amazon has a number of them 2PCS Front Grill Mesh for Tesla Model Y, Air Inlet Vent Grille Cover, Mesh Bright Black Bumper Vent Grille Replacement for Tesla Model Y 2020 to 2023
As someone already pointed out, 5,000 kWh of DC is quite a lot. Assuming a 30 kWh juice-up per stop or just over 160 DC charging stops to put some perspective onto it. That's quite a bit of heat buildup under the intense desert sun. Sure, it's no Nissan Leaf, but I'd imagine that AC compressor was working overtime during and after those DC stops.
Before I traded my 2018 LR RWD a few months ago it was at 72kWh showing 97% capacity, 3% degredation with 65k km. Rarely charged above 75 percent and rested mostly between 50 and 60%. Northern colder climate. I've now got the LG battery on the 2024 LR AWD. Going to keep the same charging patterns and see how it goes.
So, my model 3 performance has 250 miles of range after 250k miles. Original battery. Almost 0 maintenance. 100% on highway going 80mph is about 200 miles to empty
My 2016 s has 10 percent degradation and just went out of warranty. 55k miles so far . But it’s been and still is the best car I have owned so far . Sure it was a very large bill but worth it so far and the free supercharger access keeps giving back ! This car … not a chance I would have picked up . Too beat up for me but I’m glad he loves it ! My wife’s 17 x had 14 percent degradation and over 100k miles and she wants another one when this one calls quit . She loves her Tesla !
The ideal SOC is NOT as low as possible. For NMC batteries, it is about 50-60%. Do not mislead your viewers! Battery wear works differently at low SOC, but it is generally more harmful than high SOC, though 20% should still be reasonably safe. Do you want references?
Living in AZ and being a stats nerd I will tell you that Tesla does NOT do anything related to battery cooling during the summer months! I have had 2 model Ys and I rarely see pack temps below 100f even over night. Then during the day 110-115 pack temps can be very normal. If you supercharge during the day in AZ, 140f then they just slowly go down to 120 after supercharging. If you supercharge here it’s brutal day after day. I’m lucky to also have a garage with AC so I think some have it even worse.
@@fubolibs4218the only time I can tell they cool the battery is after supercharging to get the battery from 140f back down to around 120f. Also, using track mode on my performance model will also cool the battery as well but that is a choice I have to make, not Tesla.
@@fubolibs4218 Now, I should note that the car itself may be running some cooling through the loop to do some cooling. But the pack temps them self are all high all the time in the dead heat of summer for both of my MYPs I have had (late 2021/Late 2023). Tesla just doesn't do any meaningful cooling IMO. I don't get why.
It’s great that Tijmen wants to DIY the AC compressor but it’s very possible that the evaporator and condenser coil need replacement, as well as the lines. If the compressor grenaded itself, there is metal throughout the whole system now. It’s typical for Tesla to have to do this when a compressor fails. Still possible if you’re an advanced DIY’er, but beware it may not be as simple as just replacing the compressor and calling it a day.
Hi Kyle, remember miles is not necessarily related to energy cycles of the battery pack. In AZ, you could be running the AC all the time remotely, and he could have been doing 0-60 runs all the time. If he were doing racing runs, the pack could be depleted in 50 miles. A better measurement is how many megawatts the battery has put out or consumed, you could then choose the average whr / mile and calculate the true "mileage" the pack has on it. Also, he's getting quite poor whr/mi - perhaps ensure the tires are low rolling resistance, and that bushing issue could be causing drag because misalignment
Watching this on my lunchbreak in the middle of rebuilding a Kia Niro gearbox, haha. A little note on another important factor for battery health (which you can access with ScanMyTesla) is the CAC differential of the individual bricks within the battery. CAC stands for Calculated Amp-hour Capacity, and is essentially a calculation that the BMS makes for the capacity of each "brick" within the battery. Given that this car appears to have a pretty low voltage imbalance, the CAC differential is probably pretty low (though at around halfway SoC, the voltage imbalance is usually at it's lowest, so not the best indicator). Once a pack reaches a high enough threshold for CAC differential, it can reach a point where the BMS can no longer effectively keep the cells balanced, which usually leads to an increasing SoC/voltage imbalance. If the imbalance reaches a big enough discrepancy, the BMS will throw an alert and limit the maximum charge level of the battery (usually a target of 3.8v max for the highest brick). For legacy Model S/X, this alert is a BMS_u018, and for Model 3/Y the alert is BMS_a066. In general, I would say the point at which CAC differential starts to become "concerning" would be if the discrepancy between the highest and lowest bricks starts to exceed ~4%. It will probably remain functional in the shorter term, but could indicate that the lowest brick is likely on a "downhill slide" (especially if it's just one brick that is significantly lower). There can be external factors that affect this, such as an issue with the BMS, but more likely indicates one or more cells that have become "parasitic" and are slowly draining energy from the cells around them.
Not bad given it’s a 2018. Can’t wait to see the performance upgrades and it hitting the tracks. It’s gotta be better than my leaf’s degradation which was at 60% capacity.
I'd have to agree that previous charging and storage was probably to blame. I tend to keep my Mid-Range 2018 at 70-75% and it still turning at 56.7kwh usable / 239 miles at 100% - current milage 107k miles. Nominal new was 65.1kwh and had 63sh kwh usable with a 2.1kwh buffer. I also live in the PNW were we see extreme heat for 3 months and cooler weather the remaining. My new 2024 Model Y reported 83sh kwh new nominal and 2.4kwh buffer and after 14,000 miles still giving 80sh full so very little so far. Daily charge on this is 75% like my mid-range. Only ever 100% charged this for road trips and used it within the 24 hours of leaving to the trip, so less than 12 hours sitting at max 100%. Have to see where this goes as the car ages. I took the mid-range in used with 7700 miles, so it sat at airport at unknown state of charge for that first bit, but overall degradation has been minimal on it.
My 2023 Model 3 rear wheel drive with the LFP is at 25,428 miles and displays 251 miles at 100% (it’s daily charge limit). That’s 7.7% of the original projected range lost. I charge to 100% once a week (Tesla recommendation), and replenish roughly 10% of my daily consumption daily. Mostly use the 30-40% to 70% pack segment. Have free 7kW AC charging near home, and that’s 94% of my total energy in the last 1 year. 2% of the total 3.9 mWh energy is through superchargers, in the same period.
LFPs have higher degradation rates when you charge them from 30 to 70 or 40 to 80,LFPs work perfectly when you discharge them to 10% and re charge them all the way to 100%,you just hurt your pack baddly.
Thanks for posting that. I'm always looking to compare. Our 2023 M3 RWD w/ lfp is at 20,963 miles and shows 264 miles of range for a loss of a little over 3%. Up until last week, I've been charging it to 100% almost every day. I'm a range anxiety kinda guy and it's taken me awhile to adjust to this. I got the Tessi app and am trying to keep the battery at a lower state of charge and charge once a week to 100%. This week, I've also set the charge limit to 90%. We mostly charge at home and have used 5.9mWh in a year. We almost never supercharge, but my wife did take the kids on a 4000 mile road trip - during that time she consumed 1.6 mWh in 1 month on superchargers.
@ That’s interesting as I had the same number, 264 miles, at the beginning of summer at around roughly 21k odometer. And I too used to keep it at high state (multiple full charges/week & generally over 80%) until recently, following Kyle’s Always-Be-Charging principle. The drain was excessive this summer, which was particularly severe this year, here in the Bay Area. Heat & high state of charge could be the factors to look out for.
@@foam27 Yes, but even Teslas have thermal issues. Drive one during peak Texas heat in the Summer on the highway and it burns so much energy just trying to stay cool. I did this last Summer and it was a pretty bad experience, had to wait until dark to have the range to make it to my next charging stop.
Just got a 2019 3 LR from Tesla. 16% degradation on the battery. Tesla replaced the upper control arms before delivery. Car is otherwise great for $22k before tax credit.
My June 2023 Tesla model 3 has 100,000 miles on it. 4% degradation so far. LFP. People don't want to believe me, but it's been tested two different ways and they both come up the same.
@@ericgregori It had less than 40k miles in 6 years, no way that's an uber or rental. Just as Kyle said, hot Arizona weather plus high % storage will do this
I'm the only one in America that prefers chrome. Love the way the the chrome looks on his 3. I hate all the black all my Y especially the wheel covers.
16% loss seems excessive for 40K miles. But as you say, hot AZ weather can contribute to that, and maybe it was charged to 100% many times and left sitting.
I'm with the others that have pointed to the beat up suspension and high regen factor, indicating the car was rode hard and put away wet for those 40k miles. Because at that level of capacity loss, he'd reach warranty replacement by 75k miles, which is simply crazy. Another anecdote, is that I have a Polestar 2 with 39k miles, and virtually all AC charging, but pretty much plugged in every evening and charged to 90%. My last battery state of health check had the battery at just under 96%. So a loss of around 1% for every 10k miles of usage. That's in line with what others have seen as well. The caveats there are, there's the assumption that a brand new, zero mile, battery starts at 100% exactly, which it may not, and then of course use cases, charging type/frequency, and ambient temps are all additional factors.
Yes, way too many red flags. I would not buy a car from a hot weather state like Arizona and the unrepaired damage indicates an abusive/careless owner.
Depends on who you are. If you have minimal mechanical skill, like doing a brake job is no big deal, then you know the mechanical side with this car isn't a big deal. Normal wear and tear sort of stuff.
@@enoughofthiswho is "these guys"? Kyle? Who explicitly said multiple times that he wouldn't get this car and advised against it in the original video? Or the sometimes guest who did it anyway and has little if any financial stake in the channel?
Great test! I would love to see how this compares to a 2020 Model 3 LR. It would be great if the car would record more statistics on their usage, I think it would really help when going for sale. Again, I really enjoy watching these. Please think about getting high visibility vests for the end of these tests to stay safe.
Cool to see this content! My 2018 3P has 74K miles, Colorado car, about 8k miles in Minnesota now, 65 kWh. Not sure on charging history, that 8k is about 25% supercharging
Really enjoy this type of content. There needs to be more videos about battery degradation. I see private sellers all the time stating that their cars batteries have been “babied” and have low degradation because they’ve only ever charged to 80%. Actually no, in many cases it has shown that charging to 100% isn’t much different than charging to 80% in terms of degradation. If you care about degradation, setting your charge limit to 50%-55% can cut your degradation in half in comparison to those that charge to 80%. Also the whole “I can charge my LFP pack to 100% all day everyday and not worry about degradation” is a fallacy. The 100% recommendation for LFP packs has to do with pack voltage and BMS calibration. Set your LFP charge limit to 70%, with the occasional 100% charge for the BMS, if you care about degradation.
@@cutehumornot very hard if you have home charging. I don’t even think about it. Also there is nothing you HAVE to do. Let me ask you this, do you optimize everything with your ICE to ensure it lasts longer? Probably not.
My car was delivered new on a Friday with non functional a/c. Tesla said to bring it back the next week for repair. The car operated fine with no error messages.
2018 Model 3 Performance, 75,000 miles (120,000km). At 100% SOC, shows 260 miles (420km). Real world mileage has been between 181mile-238mile (290km-380km) the handful of times driving 100% to under 3% (sport mode with roof rack) Recent health test 83%
I have a 2021 Dual Motor 3 with 34,000 Miles. Im sitting at 13% Battery Degredation since new. Vehicle charges to 313 miles indicated, but realistically I've only ever seen 250miles out of it. I am running Zero-G wheel's with stock size PS4S tires. But I'm somehow getting lower Wh/MI now then I was when the vehicle was new with the 19" Sport V2 wheels and stock continental tire.
35:00 A piece on Tesla's battery and drivetrain warranties would be great. Not only covering the new cars, but the older versions like this that are now becoming very affordable.
Auto journo Rory in Great Britain has interviewed a ModS Taxi owner that has 400,000 of mostly SCharged miles , he still had 100 miles of range when he changed thd battery pack . For comparison any high perf BMW or Mercedes ICE replacement will on average cost ofer $20,000 from a that companies dealer ,and that is just for the ENGINE😊
My June 2023 Tesla model 3 has 100,000 miles on it. 4% degradation so far. LFP. People don't want to believe me, but it's been tested two different ways and they both come up the same.
Very interesting. I would be interested in what non Tesla cars show as well. I’m surprised this is so bad but it’s probably an outlier. I have thought about doing a similar test on my Kia when I have time.
That seems like a lot to me. I currently have a Kia EV6. Technically, this is my second one since someone hit the first one. With my first one being the Wind rear-wheel drive, I put 60,000 miles on that car, and with my scan tool plugged in, I only had a 0.5% degradation. I use exclusively the fast chargers because I primarily use the car to do Uber. When I've used the fast charger, I charge my car up to 100%, and I only have a little bit of degradation. Versus this car that's mostly been AC charged, I get that it's been an Arizona car, but that still seems like a lot of battery loss in the time that it's been on the road.
Every battery degrades, it is physics. KIA is taking different strategy to battery capacity management. It provides only limited usable capacity to customer and leaves a hidden buffer which is then used to compensate for capacity lost via degradation. Kia does not have any special technology which avoids battery degradation, you just can use less capacity from beginning.
I passed two semi trucks packed full with new Tesla's . I pulled over when I "woke up" realizing that they may have been on Electric Semi's and I could have gotten a photo of the Semi ? Darn, wasn't able to work that out.
I wonder if they build their own AC compressors ? And, how many miles did that car have on it when purchased used ? ok, 100k ? I'm just shocked that you can't find out the history on that car, especially considering all the technical stuff available ! Car Facts should juice up their records if Tesla isn't going to.
That seems like a lot of DC charging. That's 1/3 of the battery usage. I'm not sure I'd call that "primarily A/C charged". ================== For comparison here's my gently used low mileage 2018: 05/25/24 2018 Tesla Model 3, AWD, 20,201 Miles Battery health: 91% Charged to 296 miles after health test --------------------- Daily charged to 60-65%. Supercharged only on rare road trips.
I tried 60% charging on my MYP. It was a mistake. Tho I avg 390-405 why on the highway at 70-80 mph. Tesla said that was normal ..... I was expecting 320 or less.
@@David_L3 because the car limits power at 55-60% SOC so you don't have the passing power you expect on the highway. Was annoying. To be more direct to the issue, I had to visit a supercharger every two days because of the consumption being so high. I couldn't replenish the usage at at my house overnight. To give you an idea how bad it was in real world terms. I was taking a trip to Cali, I top charge at a supercharger (so sit there for 2 hours in Goodyear Arizona). And I would pull into quartzsite at 1% on a brand new pack .... so as degradation happens that trip is not possible and there is not another supercharger. That's 112 miles ....... EPA said 303. I tried PHX to Tuscon, It's 200 miles round trip The vehicle should easily be able to do that. NOPE SC at Eloy AZ on the way there and then AGAIN on the way back .... Tesla service center saw the car five times they insisted that everything was normal and that's just "what they do in AZ" I was SHOOK. ANYWAY I GUESS YOU ASKED WHY 60% WAS AN ISSUE IT WAS AN ISSUE BECAUSE IT SIMPLY WAS NOT ENOUGH CHARGE AND I HAD TO RESCHEDULE MY LIFE AND BE LIKE OH NO I CAN'T TAKE THE CAR TO GO GET FOOD THIS EVENING CUZ I NEED TO MAKE SURE I GET AS MUCH CHARGE AS POSSIBLE SO I'M NOT SPENDING TOO MUCH AT THE SUPERCHARGER.
@@duramaxadventures5832 oh I see. That makes sense. You certainly need to put in what you need for a daily drive. That's a lot of driving. If you don't have the range for your daily drive the EV might not be for you.
To Kyle - I own a 21 model 3 salvage car with 34k miles and I live in a mild climate. My car sat in an auction yard for 9 months and went to 0% soc , I would guess it sat like that for a long time before I revived it. Would be interesting to compare my situation - do you think my battery health would be impacted by that ? Btw Thanks for making all these great videos
I had a 2018 M3P, 53k miles, SoCal, AC Charged 98%, Tesla ran it remotely after several service visits, 11% degradation after 2 years. These performance models DO degrade faster, may be the way the software/motors is running?
I have a 2018 model 3 long range at 109k mile and I have almost 20% degradation. I've been very gentle with it but the degradation ramp up in the last few years. Sadly I don't think I'll exceed 30% degradation before I hit 120k miles
@ very little super charging except summer beach trips and otherwise kept it under 85% charge the first few years and under 80% charge on Tesla’s new recommendations.
I think some of the 2018 batteries were not great. 2018 LR with 56k miles and ScanMyTesla reports nominal full pack at 65.9, so 12%. Charged to 90% as recommended for the first few years.
@@DonColeman yep. I think we had the 1st or 2nd batch of model 3s and Tesla recommended charging to 90%....I charged to 85% but I saw a dramatic rise in degradation this year.
Scan my Tesla shows 63kwh on my 2018 model 3 with 168,000 miles. With Tijmen' car, it showed 64kwh. Im curious if the Scan my Tesla is consistently that close to actual capacity.
We need this test on used ID.4, Ioniq 5, BMW i4, and any other high volume EVs coming off lease to see if a second hand EV makes any sense to purchase.
I would think that the cars cooling systems would keep the battery at a safe temp when resting if the car is plugged in.. Maybe the AC compressor has been faulted for a long time, or underperforming? BTW get that fixed ASAP. If the compressor grenades.. it will throw metal trash all thru the system, much mor expensive. So fix it or disable it until you do. My Bolt EV will have the AC going over 3KW when parked in summer heat and plugged in.. I think It targets 90F when on plugged in and 100F when not. Looking forward to future videos on the car..
I feel like the frame could have been bent on half, with the roof caved in, with 15 miles of rated range left....... and he still would have been like "Eh, i don't care, it's still good" 😂.
I have a 2018 m3 dual motor. 95% was ac charged. My compressor went bad too but you have no idea until you check the service menu. I live in Los Angeles so heat is not too bad. My degradation is probably 84% too. I think it was the compressor not working and likely allowing battery temps to get too high.
I have many friends (Chicago) with Telsas well under 90% capacity left. Interestingly, my AC charged 2019 Leaf Plus is doing worse (10.3% loss) with 40K miles, than my DC charged 2019 Leaf (9% loss).
Comparison. I have a 2018 low VIN LR RWD M3. Original owner with 90k miles. Texas car. Running ScanMyT3sla results in 64.0 capacity. Virtually identical. No squeaks or AC noise though.
It only has one compressor. But that wont inpact this test, it might just explain the degradation if it's broken for a long time. But I doubt someone would drive a car without AC in Arizona :D
It would probably be interesting (surely for me) to indicate the lowest cell voltage (scan my tesla) at the moment of entering 0% and at the moment the car stops completely. This way we now where the protection limits programmed by tesla are.
I bought my 2017 Tesla Model S 75D back in Feb. with 75k miles. I connected Tessie which showed ~7% degradation. Carfax indicates it was from Utah, I live in NV… it was brutally hot this summer. I thought I saw someone say 80% was the best limit charging, so I did that. I only drive 20-50 miles a day, should I limit daily charging to 50 or 60%?
7:10 false. You cannot just replace the compressor. I mean, you can, but it will need replacement shortly after. You need to replace all of the parts. The evaporator, the condenser, the expansion valve, the dryer and probably the lines too. When a compressor fails, it sends the pieces throughout the system. Those pieces are tiny. You cannot get them all out. You have to replace the whole system. Unless it an exterior failure, like the drivebelt bearing (which I would imagine a Tesla doesn't have) or something.
The numbers do not add up. The car's efficiency was nearly 5 miles per kWh. This means the car SHOULD have driven 5 miles/kWh x 63 kWh = 315 miles in the range test. The car only went about 235 miles . That is a HUGE difference. In reality this car's efficiency is 235/63 = 3.73 milles/kWh, which is inefficient. This would indicate that your math is off by quite a bit. Note that this car's efficiency AND range will significantly increase if the two radiators under the frunk are power washed and cleaned. You have to remove the front bumper to remove the plastic cowling that covers the radiators. There are UA-cam videos that show you how to do this. Be careful with the radiators because the fins bend easily, and you can damage them if you use too much pressure with your power washer.
26:30 "There he goes, makin' s U-turn. As we get right back up to speed, we're gonna duck in behind him." If you were a true friend, you'd let him draft you.
This car was beat up its entire life. Look at that steering wheel. Good lord. My 2021 (delivered late 2020) LRAWD has 55k miles and is practically indistinguishable from new. However, I am also seeing around 10% degradation which is unfortunate. Car is supercharged a lot and would often go to 90% back when Tesla said that was ok to do. North Carolina mild weather. Love the car, but it sucks that Tesla completely dismisses degradation whatsoever when asked about it. See the new model 3 review with jay Leno. When asked, the engineers said the most you would see was 3-4 percent over a decade. Unfortunate that they are lying through their teeth.
Keep in mind that ICE cars also lose efficiency and range with mileage. There's no free lunch. However it seems like the current range is enough for him and thats A LOT of car for 2018 for $25k and 40k miles.
I can understand keeping it plugged in to manage parasitic drain if left for months. But I just got back from a week being gone and the SOC didn't change at all. 52 when I left. 52 a week later. And I drove it and it didn't suddenly drop either. I guess I'm just curious if topping up the battery is the only reason to leave it plugged in. If so I think I'm fine following the manufacturer recommendations for a vacation since I have so little drain while parked.
@@awmustang The manufacturers are usually recommending this from a safety/conservative/fire standpoint. Having it plugged in allows the car to reach for grid power anytime it's needed, even if just to precondition before leaving.
If you missed Tijmen's original delivery video, it's linked here! ua-cam.com/video/xPw_dhrSpW8/v-deo.html
There is typo at 0:10. Should be "stress free".
@outofspecreviews You seem extremely knowledgeable in batteries derogation. Can you make a video on best practices for daily charging? I have a 2024 Tesla model three performance I don’t necessarily need it to 80% but I like the performance that comes with it at 80%. is it OK that I charge it to 80% every single day or should I be charging it lower like 65% or 70%
A relevant data point to add. My 2018 3 performance has 215,000 miles. All supercharged. Socal weather. 61kwh.
Same for me
anecdotal evidence. not very strong form of scientific evidence.
dyhppyx, make a youtube video and prove it.
@@cutehumor he wont. he is lying
@@johnphillips7894 Every singular data point could be considered anecdotal evidence, but when you can combine a bunch of single anecdotal data points you can start to see a trend that actually matters. So yeah, if everyone wanted to share their "anecdotal evidence" it would go a long way to seeing what these cars are still doing.
It was actually 62.91 kWh if you multiply 233 mi * 0.270Wh/mi.
The high degradation is most probably due to a lot of acceleration, fast charging, high state of charge, and high temperatures. I don't think the owner drove gently with it, see all the suspension issues. Also the 4880 kWh regen in ScanMyTesla is a hint to fast driving style. It had almost the same regen like DC charging.
I appreciate that you’re digging into what that battery health number actually means. Hopefully one day this is a number that is required to be reported for used EV sales.
As an industry, need to quantify what battery health means and how to display that to customers
@@KyleConner absolutely. Not sure if it’s already in the works, but it would be interesting to see what kind of range/efficiency gains could be had on this car if you swapped in the new Photon wheels from the new Long Range RWD.
for my understanding is that anytime you buy a used tesla the battery health information is something you can acquire very very very very very easily, compared to other ev's, you just need to learn how to use "service" mode and you'll be good to go, also here in my city if you go shopping used teslas i believe almost if not all used car dealerships did in fact display the actual battery health at 100%
Well said
The problem is age alone degrades the battery. That's just the nature of it. The air is going to be a fortune to fix.
When your compressor fails, it sends tiny fragments of metal all through the system. Every part will need replacement. 6 year old upper and lower control arms isn't a great sign either.
I would strongly recommend either making sure the damaged compressor cannot run, or replacing it ASAP. If the compressor is sending metal debris into the AC system you need to replace a lot more components and flush others you cannot get to (ones in the dash). Makes the replacement a lot more expensive.
Would love to see this channel get a battery replacement in it and document as much as you can about the process and costs involved.
Hi Tijmen, not only have the AC compressor replaced but I would clean the condenser fins on the front and put a screen guard to keep it clean. Debris is often the cause of AC issues and poor AC in hot climate could have also resulted in battery degradation as the pack may not have been kept within normal temps during charging and heavy usage!
If I may ask, what type of screen guard should be used? Does Tesla sell one of these screen guards or are they sold in local automotive parts stores?
@@busog97641 Amazon has a number of them 2PCS Front Grill Mesh for Tesla Model Y, Air Inlet Vent Grille Cover, Mesh Bright Black Bumper Vent Grille Replacement for Tesla Model Y 2020 to 2023
We want part 2 of i90 surge❤
As someone already pointed out, 5,000 kWh of DC is quite a lot. Assuming a 30 kWh juice-up per stop or just over 160 DC charging stops to put some perspective onto it. That's quite a bit of heat buildup under the intense desert sun. Sure, it's no Nissan Leaf, but I'd imagine that AC compressor was working overtime during and after those DC stops.
Before I traded my 2018 LR RWD a few months ago it was at 72kWh showing 97% capacity, 3% degredation with 65k km. Rarely charged above 75 percent and rested mostly between 50 and 60%. Northern colder climate. I've now got the LG battery on the 2024 LR AWD. Going to keep the same charging patterns and see how it goes.
I got a used higher mileage it was at 12 percent now it’s at 16 percent still happy with my purchase best car I’ve ever owned
So, my model 3 performance has 250 miles of range after 250k miles. Original battery. Almost 0 maintenance. 100% on highway going 80mph is about 200 miles to empty
Nice
What trim is your model 3 performance?
@@2021PorscheTaycanTurboS. you mean year?
@@deej628 never mind that was dumb of me now I see he said performance trim.
@@2021PorscheTaycanTurboS all good.
My 2016 s has 10 percent degradation and just went out of warranty. 55k miles so far . But it’s been and still is the best car I have owned so far . Sure it was a very large bill but worth it so far and the free supercharger access keeps giving back !
This car … not a chance I would have picked up . Too beat up for me but I’m glad he loves it ! My wife’s 17 x had 14 percent degradation and over 100k miles and she wants another one when this one calls quit . She loves her Tesla !
Woah!!! No arms akimbo thumbnail! NICE!
The ideal SOC is NOT as low as possible. For NMC batteries, it is about 50-60%. Do not mislead your viewers! Battery wear works differently at low SOC, but it is generally more harmful than high SOC, though 20% should still be reasonably safe.
Do you want references?
I was thinking similar, low SOC is worse on the battery than high SOC.
Living in AZ and being a stats nerd I will tell you that Tesla does NOT do anything related to battery cooling during the summer months! I have had 2 model Ys and I rarely see pack temps below 100f even over night. Then during the day 110-115 pack temps can be very normal. If you supercharge during the day in AZ, 140f then they just slowly go down to 120 after supercharging. If you supercharge here it’s brutal day after day. I’m lucky to also have a garage with AC so I think some have it even worse.
Does Tesla not run the AC to keep the battery cooler if it's plugged in? Even the bolt EUV does that.
@@fubolibs4218the only time I can tell they cool the battery is after supercharging to get the battery from 140f back down to around 120f. Also, using track mode on my performance model will also cool the battery as well but that is a choice I have to make, not Tesla.
@JimBoomer weird. My bolt starts the coolant when battery pack is 90F and stops when it cools below 80. That's why it's plugged in.
@@fubolibs4218 Now, I should note that the car itself may be running some cooling through the loop to do some cooling. But the pack temps them self are all high all the time in the dead heat of summer for both of my MYPs I have had (late 2021/Late 2023). Tesla just doesn't do any meaningful cooling IMO. I don't get why.
@JimBoomer that's weird. Even if it's plugged in??? I would imagine it would just run the AC power and cool the pack.
My LG battery has after 56.000km and a lot of high speed driving on the German Autobahn still 98,3% capacity. The LG is really good.
How many years?
It’s great that Tijmen wants to DIY the AC compressor but it’s very possible that the evaporator and condenser coil need replacement, as well as the lines. If the compressor grenaded itself, there is metal throughout the whole system now. It’s typical for Tesla to have to do this when a compressor fails.
Still possible if you’re an advanced DIY’er, but beware it may not be as simple as just replacing the compressor and calling it a day.
Hi Kyle, remember miles is not necessarily related to energy cycles of the battery pack. In AZ, you could be running the AC all the time remotely, and he could have been doing 0-60 runs all the time. If he were doing racing runs, the pack could be depleted in 50 miles.
A better measurement is how many megawatts the battery has put out or consumed, you could then choose the average whr / mile and calculate the true "mileage" the pack has on it.
Also, he's getting quite poor whr/mi - perhaps ensure the tires are low rolling resistance, and that bushing issue could be causing drag because misalignment
My 2017 model S has 9% loss after 125k miles. Most of that was in the beginning and hasn’t changed much since.
Watching this on my lunchbreak in the middle of rebuilding a Kia Niro gearbox, haha.
A little note on another important factor for battery health (which you can access with ScanMyTesla) is the CAC differential of the individual bricks within the battery. CAC stands for Calculated Amp-hour Capacity, and is essentially a calculation that the BMS makes for the capacity of each "brick" within the battery. Given that this car appears to have a pretty low voltage imbalance, the CAC differential is probably pretty low (though at around halfway SoC, the voltage imbalance is usually at it's lowest, so not the best indicator).
Once a pack reaches a high enough threshold for CAC differential, it can reach a point where the BMS can no longer effectively keep the cells balanced, which usually leads to an increasing SoC/voltage imbalance. If the imbalance reaches a big enough discrepancy, the BMS will throw an alert and limit the maximum charge level of the battery (usually a target of 3.8v max for the highest brick). For legacy Model S/X, this alert is a BMS_u018, and for Model 3/Y the alert is BMS_a066.
In general, I would say the point at which CAC differential starts to become "concerning" would be if the discrepancy between the highest and lowest bricks starts to exceed ~4%. It will probably remain functional in the shorter term, but could indicate that the lowest brick is likely on a "downhill slide" (especially if it's just one brick that is significantly lower). There can be external factors that affect this, such as an issue with the BMS, but more likely indicates one or more cells that have become "parasitic" and are slowly draining energy from the cells around them.
Very interesting, thanks for sharing that.
Not bad given it’s a 2018. Can’t wait to see the performance upgrades and it hitting the tracks. It’s gotta be better than my leaf’s degradation which was at 60% capacity.
I'd have to agree that previous charging and storage was probably to blame. I tend to keep my Mid-Range 2018 at 70-75% and it still turning at 56.7kwh usable / 239 miles at 100% - current milage 107k miles. Nominal new was 65.1kwh and had 63sh kwh usable with a 2.1kwh buffer. I also live in the PNW were we see extreme heat for 3 months and cooler weather the remaining.
My new 2024 Model Y reported 83sh kwh new nominal and 2.4kwh buffer and after 14,000 miles still giving 80sh full so very little so far. Daily charge on this is 75% like my mid-range. Only ever 100% charged this for road trips and used it within the 24 hours of leaving to the trip, so less than 12 hours sitting at max 100%. Have to see where this goes as the car ages. I took the mid-range in used with 7700 miles, so it sat at airport at unknown state of charge for that first bit, but overall degradation has been minimal on it.
My 2023 Model 3 rear wheel drive with the LFP is at 25,428 miles and displays 251 miles at 100% (it’s daily charge limit). That’s 7.7% of the original projected range lost. I charge to 100% once a week (Tesla recommendation), and replenish roughly 10% of my daily consumption daily. Mostly use the 30-40% to 70% pack segment. Have free 7kW AC charging near home, and that’s 94% of my total energy in the last 1 year. 2% of the total 3.9 mWh energy is through superchargers, in the same period.
LFPs have higher degradation rates when you charge them from 30 to 70 or 40 to 80,LFPs work perfectly when you discharge them to 10% and re charge them all the way to 100%,you just hurt your pack baddly.
@@davidfujkk8018 Literally none of this is true. LFP just degrades less from top-charging than NMC does.
Thanks for posting that. I'm always looking to compare. Our 2023 M3 RWD w/ lfp is at 20,963 miles and shows 264 miles of range for a loss of a little over 3%. Up until last week, I've been charging it to 100% almost every day. I'm a range anxiety kinda guy and it's taken me awhile to adjust to this. I got the Tessi app and am trying to keep the battery at a lower state of charge and charge once a week to 100%. This week, I've also set the charge limit to 90%. We mostly charge at home and have used 5.9mWh in a year. We almost never supercharge, but my wife did take the kids on a 4000 mile road trip - during that time she consumed 1.6 mWh in 1 month on superchargers.
@ That’s interesting as I had the same number, 264 miles, at the beginning of summer at around roughly 21k odometer. And I too used to keep it at high state (multiple full charges/week & generally over 80%) until recently, following Kyle’s Always-Be-Charging principle. The drain was excessive this summer, which was particularly severe this year, here in the Bay Area. Heat & high state of charge could be the factors to look out for.
@@concinnus i didnt say compared to NMC i just compared different charging habits in lfps
Heat is the biggest factor affecting battery health
Coolant recirculates through the battery pack
@@foam27 Yes, but even Teslas have thermal issues. Drive one during peak Texas heat in the Summer on the highway and it burns so much energy just trying to stay cool. I did this last Summer and it was a pretty bad experience, had to wait until dark to have the range to make it to my next charging stop.
I'd like to see how much your R1T battery has degraded since you bought it.
My R1T has about 4% loss in 37k miles, 15 months.
That's with a lot of deep DCFC sessions, and more than a handful of times running it almost to 0.
Really insightful video as a 2018 Performance owner with 104k miles
Just got a 2019 3 LR from Tesla. 16% degradation on the battery. Tesla replaced the upper control arms before delivery. Car is otherwise great for $22k before tax credit.
With 85k miles
Zero g wheels look so sick. Great upgrade Tijmen 🔥
I literally just watched the first before in this series- so hyped!!
Holy hell that thing is a wreck for having less than 40,000 miles on it. 16% battery degradation in 6 years, 40K miles?
My June 2023 Tesla model 3 has 100,000 miles on it. 4% degradation so far. LFP. People don't want to believe me, but it's been tested two different ways and they both come up the same.
Uber or rental? If the car was abused (charging to 100%, potholes, ..). No different than an ICE with 40K miles never having the oil changed.
@@ericgregori It had less than 40k miles in 6 years, no way that's an uber or rental. Just as Kyle said, hot Arizona weather plus high % storage will do this
This thing is in line with early passive cooling Nissan Leaf battery degredation!
@@MH-Tesla 4 percent is crazy low.
I'm the only one in America that prefers chrome. Love the way the the chrome looks on his 3. I hate all the black all my Y especially the wheel covers.
Bjorn Nyland was able to pull out just 73kWh from his 2019 M3perf., and EVdatabase reported 73.5kWh usable
16% loss seems excessive for 40K miles. But as you say, hot AZ weather can contribute to that, and maybe it was charged to 100% many times and left sitting.
I'm with the others that have pointed to the beat up suspension and high regen factor, indicating the car was rode hard and put away wet for those 40k miles. Because at that level of capacity loss, he'd reach warranty replacement by 75k miles, which is simply crazy.
Another anecdote, is that I have a Polestar 2 with 39k miles, and virtually all AC charging, but pretty much plugged in every evening and charged to 90%. My last battery state of health check had the battery at just under 96%. So a loss of around 1% for every 10k miles of usage. That's in line with what others have seen as well. The caveats there are, there's the assumption that a brand new, zero mile, battery starts at 100% exactly, which it may not, and then of course use cases, charging type/frequency, and ambient temps are all additional factors.
Okay I'm four minutes in and I would not have purchased this car. That's a long list of issues.
Go buy 7 years old BMW. You will have less issues for sure 😉
Yes, way too many red flags. I would not buy a car from a hot weather state like Arizona and the unrepaired damage indicates an abusive/careless owner.
These guys will create a bunch of issues just for clicks/ views.
Had a 2018 back in 2018, had no issues until I sold it 4 years later
Depends on who you are. If you have minimal mechanical skill, like doing a brake job is no big deal, then you know the mechanical side with this car isn't a big deal. Normal wear and tear sort of stuff.
@@enoughofthiswho is "these guys"? Kyle? Who explicitly said multiple times that he wouldn't get this car and advised against it in the original video? Or the sometimes guest who did it anyway and has little if any financial stake in the channel?
Great test! I would love to see how this compares to a 2020 Model 3 LR. It would be great if the car would record more statistics on their usage, I think it would really help when going for sale. Again, I really enjoy watching these. Please think about getting high visibility vests for the end of these tests to stay safe.
Cool to see this content! My 2018 3P has 74K miles, Colorado car, about 8k miles in Minnesota now, 65 kWh. Not sure on charging history, that 8k is about 25% supercharging
It's crazy how awesome this turned out!
Giving this a like bacause Tijmen is cool. Id love to grab a beer with this one. He so calm and chill lol
Out of curiosity I'd like to know what the "guess o meter" predicted range was at 100% SOC.
Really enjoy this type of content. There needs to be more videos about battery degradation. I see private sellers all the time stating that their cars batteries have been “babied” and have low degradation because they’ve only ever charged to 80%. Actually no, in many cases it has shown that charging to 100% isn’t much different than charging to 80% in terms of degradation. If you care about degradation, setting your charge limit to 50%-55% can cut your degradation in half in comparison to those that charge to 80%.
Also the whole “I can charge my LFP pack to 100% all day everyday and not worry about degradation” is a fallacy. The 100% recommendation for LFP packs has to do with pack voltage and BMS calibration. Set your LFP charge limit to 70%, with the occasional 100% charge for the BMS, if you care about degradation.
if as a potential EV buyer, I have to keep the EV battery from 25 percent to 70 percent everyday. the car is worthless to me.
@@cutehumornot very hard if you have home charging. I don’t even think about it. Also there is nothing you HAVE to do. Let me ask you this, do you optimize everything with your ICE to ensure it lasts longer? Probably not.
@@cutehumor also the “below 20% is bad for you battery” is a large overblown fallacy too
Good thing he went with Amber
How well does the battery management work with non-functioning AC?
My car was delivered new on a Friday with non functional a/c. Tesla said to bring it back the next week for repair. The car operated fine with no error messages.
OOSR - can we get a monthly or quarterly look at charging networks in the USA.
28k for a 2018 P is crazy when you can get a 22-23 for almost the same price and miles straight from Tesla.
You never fail to surprise us!
2018 Model 3 Performance, 75,000 miles (120,000km).
At 100% SOC, shows 260 miles (420km).
Real world mileage has been between 181mile-238mile (290km-380km) the handful of times driving 100% to under 3% (sport mode with roof rack)
Recent health test 83%
Great video.
I have a 2021 Dual Motor 3 with 34,000 Miles. Im sitting at 13% Battery Degredation since new. Vehicle charges to 313 miles indicated, but realistically I've only ever seen 250miles out of it. I am running Zero-G wheel's with stock size PS4S tires. But I'm somehow getting lower Wh/MI now then I was when the vehicle was new with the 19" Sport V2 wheels and stock continental tire.
that's a bad battery module. get it serviced and they will replace
@@bridamythey will not replace it with 87% health
@@linu4592 if it's 3 years old and already at 87 yes they will. if not sue them
@@bridamy the warranty description is clear they will not change it i am in the same situation
@@linu4592 well if that's true another reason I'm glad I went with a legacy manufacturer for my ev
"I think Kyle is more concerned about this car than I am" haha
Aye I was waiting for an update on this one!
35:00 A piece on Tesla's battery and drivetrain warranties would be great. Not only covering the new cars, but the older versions like this that are now becoming very affordable.
Auto journo Rory in Great Britain has interviewed a ModS Taxi owner that has 400,000 of mostly SCharged miles , he still had 100 miles of range when he changed thd battery pack . For comparison any high perf BMW or Mercedes ICE replacement will on average cost ofer $20,000 from a that companies dealer ,and that is just for the ENGINE😊
My June 2023 Tesla model 3 has 100,000 miles on it. 4% degradation so far. LFP. People don't want to believe me, but it's been tested two different ways and they both come up the same.
Very interesting. I would be interested in what non Tesla cars show as well. I’m surprised this is so bad but it’s probably an outlier. I have thought about doing a similar test on my Kia when I have time.
That seems like a lot to me. I currently have a Kia EV6. Technically, this is my second one since someone hit the first one. With my first one being the Wind rear-wheel drive, I put 60,000 miles on that car, and with my scan tool plugged in, I only had a 0.5% degradation. I use exclusively the fast chargers because I primarily use the car to do Uber. When I've used the fast charger, I charge my car up to 100%, and I only have a little bit of degradation. Versus this car that's mostly been AC charged, I get that it's been an Arizona car, but that still seems like a lot of battery loss in the time that it's been on the road.
Every battery degrades, it is physics. KIA is taking different strategy to battery capacity management. It provides only limited usable capacity to customer and leaves a hidden buffer which is then used to compensate for capacity lost via degradation. Kia does not have any special technology which avoids battery degradation, you just can use less capacity from beginning.
I passed two semi trucks packed full with new Tesla's . I pulled over when I "woke up" realizing that they may have been on Electric Semi's and I could have gotten a photo of the Semi ? Darn, wasn't able to work that out.
I wonder if they build their own AC compressors ? And, how many miles did that car have on it when purchased used ? ok, 100k ? I'm just shocked that you can't find out the history on that car, especially considering all the technical stuff available ! Car Facts should juice up their records if Tesla isn't going to.
New M3 battery has 74.3 kWh usable!
That seems like a lot of DC charging.
That's 1/3 of the battery usage.
I'm not sure I'd call that "primarily A/C charged".
==================
For comparison here's my gently used low mileage 2018:
05/25/24
2018 Tesla Model 3, AWD, 20,201 Miles
Battery health: 91%
Charged to 296 miles after health test
---------------------
Daily charged to 60-65%.
Supercharged only on rare road trips.
I tried 60% charging on my MYP. It was a mistake. Tho I avg 390-405 why on the highway at 70-80 mph. Tesla said that was normal ..... I was expecting 320 or less.
@@duramaxadventures5832 maybe I missed something. Why was that a mistake?
@@David_L3 because the car limits power at 55-60% SOC so you don't have the passing power you expect on the highway. Was annoying.
To be more direct to the issue, I had to visit a supercharger every two days because of the consumption being so high. I couldn't replenish the usage at at my house overnight.
To give you an idea how bad it was in real world terms. I was taking a trip to Cali, I top charge at a supercharger (so sit there for 2 hours in Goodyear Arizona). And I would pull into quartzsite at 1% on a brand new pack .... so as degradation happens that trip is not possible and there is not another supercharger.
That's 112 miles ....... EPA said 303.
I tried PHX to Tuscon, It's 200 miles round trip The vehicle should easily be able to do that. NOPE SC at Eloy AZ on the way there and then AGAIN on the way back ....
Tesla service center saw the car five times they insisted that everything was normal and that's just "what they do in AZ" I was SHOOK.
ANYWAY I GUESS YOU ASKED WHY 60% WAS AN ISSUE IT WAS AN ISSUE BECAUSE IT SIMPLY WAS NOT ENOUGH CHARGE AND I HAD TO RESCHEDULE MY LIFE AND BE LIKE OH NO I CAN'T TAKE THE CAR TO GO GET FOOD THIS EVENING CUZ I NEED TO MAKE SURE I GET AS MUCH CHARGE AS POSSIBLE SO I'M NOT SPENDING TOO MUCH AT THE SUPERCHARGER.
@@David_L3 shoot whoops caps
@@duramaxadventures5832 oh I see. That makes sense. You certainly need to put in what you need for a daily drive. That's a lot of driving. If you don't have the range for your daily drive the EV might not be for you.
To Kyle - I own a 21 model 3 salvage car with 34k miles and I live in a mild climate. My car sat in an auction yard for 9 months and went to 0% soc , I would guess it sat like that for a long time before I revived it. Would be interesting to compare my situation - do you think my battery health would be impacted by that ?
Btw Thanks for making all these great videos
Remember that you can check the health percentage on your screen by doing the same procedure in the video.
I had a 2018 M3P, 53k miles, SoCal, AC Charged 98%, Tesla ran it remotely after several service visits, 11% degradation after 2 years. These performance models DO degrade faster, may be the way the software/motors is running?
We got a ioniq 38, 4 years, 65k km and we can't see any degradation..range do not seems to decrease.. we always charge at 90% though.
32:00 is your answer, 233 miles on 100% down to 0, 63 kWh used from pack
Thanks! You just saved me 30 minutes of irrelevant rambling.
Kyle should have been an astronaut
So I saw your tweet that's NOTHING. 2023 MYP lost $4 per mile driven. At least your Plaid was only 2.50 per mile!
I have a 2018 model 3 long range at 109k mile and I have almost 20% degradation. I've been very gentle with it but the degradation ramp up in the last few years. Sadly I don't think I'll exceed 30% degradation before I hit 120k miles
What do you mean by “very gentle”?
@ very little super charging except summer beach trips and otherwise kept it under 85% charge the first few years and under 80% charge on Tesla’s new recommendations.
@ your degradation would’ve been roughly half of what it is if you set your charge limit to 50-55
I think some of the 2018 batteries were not great. 2018 LR with 56k miles and ScanMyTesla reports nominal full pack at 65.9, so 12%. Charged to 90% as recommended for the first few years.
@@DonColeman yep. I think we had the 1st or 2nd batch of model 3s and Tesla recommended charging to 90%....I charged to 85% but I saw a dramatic rise in degradation this year.
My Tesla had 16% degradation also but at 32,000 miles and 2 years old.
I would put some 18in wheels on that car and boost range by ~20%.
Scan my Tesla shows 63kwh on my 2018 model 3 with 168,000 miles. With Tijmen' car, it showed 64kwh. Im curious if the Scan my Tesla is consistently that close to actual capacity.
We need this test on used ID.4, Ioniq 5, BMW i4, and any other high volume EVs coming off lease to see if a second hand EV makes any sense to purchase.
Based on the comments, this is a worst case.
Is the AC also cools the batteries? AC problem may mean the battery was operating at less than ideal conditions?
Calendar degradation is far more impactful than mileage
Only if stored at high temp and high soc.
@ no, regardless
From what I’ve seen, deg is not linear with age, and essentially levels off at some point (around 80-100 k and around 5-8 yrs). Thoughts?
I would think that the cars cooling systems would keep the battery at a safe temp when resting if the car is plugged in.. Maybe the AC compressor has been faulted for a long time, or underperforming? BTW get that fixed ASAP. If the compressor grenades.. it will throw metal trash all thru the system, much mor expensive. So fix it or disable it until you do.
My Bolt EV will have the AC going over 3KW when parked in summer heat and plugged in.. I think It targets 90F when on plugged in and 100F when not.
Looking forward to future videos on the car..
I feel like the frame could have been bent on half, with the roof caved in, with 15 miles of rated range left....... and he still would have been like "Eh, i don't care, it's still good" 😂.
Wow that's a massive amount of kwh lost. Almost 8kwh less than my July 2019 Performance with 45K miles. That's a massive loss.
I have a 2018 m3 dual motor. 95% was ac charged. My compressor went bad too but you have no idea until you check the service menu. I live in Los Angeles so heat is not too bad. My degradation is probably 84% too. I think it was the compressor not working and likely allowing battery temps to get too high.
If the a/c isn’t working, the cabin is hot while driving. What are we missing here?
@ my ac was working, it’s not the compressor on the ac side, it’s on the coolant side.
I have many friends (Chicago) with Telsas well under 90% capacity left. Interestingly, my AC charged 2019 Leaf Plus is doing worse (10.3% loss) with 40K miles, than my DC charged 2019 Leaf (9% loss).
I would be super interested in knowing how much capacity the refurbished batteries Tesla installs have when replaced under warranty.
Comparison. I have a 2018 low VIN LR RWD M3. Original owner with 90k miles. Texas car.
Running ScanMyT3sla results in 64.0 capacity. Virtually identical.
No squeaks or AC noise though.
It's not that the AC is broken that's then skewed the result?
Right - does M3P have a separate a/c compressor for battery vs the interior? If not, a broken compressor could impact battery life
It only has one compressor. But that wont inpact this test, it might just explain the degradation if it's broken for a long time. But I doubt someone would drive a car without AC in Arizona :D
Seems very likely, as you state, that the long term state of charge is a big factor. Hence... LFP for majority
The big question is, will Solid State battery technology be able to be made into battery packs to breath new life into old used Teslas?
非常感谢您的分享。我们希望车企能够发布这些数据，而不是依靠我们自己的经验
Hey Kyle, when are you getting your CT wrapped? It's been over 6 months now. My suggestion is a colored matte ppf.
nice test.. agree the storage of the car in a hot weather climate are the reasons for poor battery health
@Kyle - what is the battery degradation for your 2019 Audi etron? I’m interested in getting the new Q8 etron.
It would probably be interesting (surely for me) to indicate the lowest cell voltage (scan my tesla) at the moment of entering 0% and at the moment the car stops completely. This way we now where the protection limits programmed by tesla are.
Will you do 2020 Model Y stealth performance? I know the model y isn’t your favorite car, but a lot of people own them.
I did. Check Tesla Joy
I bought my 2017 Tesla Model S 75D back in Feb. with 75k miles. I connected Tessie which showed ~7% degradation. Carfax indicates it was from Utah, I live in NV… it was brutally hot this summer. I thought I saw someone say 80% was the best limit charging, so I did that.
I only drive 20-50 miles a day, should I limit daily charging to 50 or 60%?
If you don't need the range, yes. But don't discharge it under 20% regularly, if you would need to do that raise the charge limit.
@ That makes sense. Thanks!
7:10 false. You cannot just replace the compressor. I mean, you can, but it will need replacement shortly after. You need to replace all of the parts. The evaporator, the condenser, the expansion valve, the dryer and probably the lines too.
When a compressor fails, it sends the pieces throughout the system. Those pieces are tiny. You cannot get them all out. You have to replace the whole system. Unless it an exterior failure, like the drivebelt bearing (which I would imagine a Tesla doesn't have) or something.
The numbers do not add up. The car's efficiency was nearly 5 miles per kWh. This means the car SHOULD have driven 5 miles/kWh x 63 kWh = 315 miles in the range test. The car only went about 235 miles . That is a HUGE difference. In reality this car's efficiency is 235/63 = 3.73 milles/kWh, which is inefficient. This would indicate that your math is off by quite a bit.
Note that this car's efficiency AND range will significantly increase if the two radiators under the frunk are power washed and cleaned. You have to remove the front bumper to remove the plastic cowling that covers the radiators. There are UA-cam videos that show you how to do this. Be careful with the radiators because the fins bend easily, and you can damage them if you use too much pressure with your power washer.
What device do u use to scan the Tesla??
26:30 "There he goes, makin' s U-turn. As we get right back up to speed, we're gonna duck in behind him."
If you were a true friend, you'd let him draft you.
This car was beat up its entire life. Look at that steering wheel. Good lord. My 2021 (delivered late 2020) LRAWD has 55k miles and is practically indistinguishable from new. However, I am also seeing around 10% degradation which is unfortunate. Car is supercharged a lot and would often go to 90% back when Tesla said that was ok to do. North Carolina mild weather. Love the car, but it sucks that Tesla completely dismisses degradation whatsoever when asked about it. See the new model 3 review with jay Leno. When asked, the engineers said the most you would see was 3-4 percent over a decade. Unfortunate that they are lying through their teeth.
My 2021 m3p only have 30,000KM, it's currently degraded until 86%
Maybe you can finally get Dom in Battery Bargains to stop obsessing over low miles
Keep in mind that ICE cars also lose efficiency and range with mileage. There's no free lunch. However it seems like the current range is enough for him and thats A LOT of car for 2018 for $25k and 40k miles.
Actually ice gain efficiency with age due to parts increasing their tolerances. Older ice engines are quicker with miles on them too.
You said for vacation to go to 50% and leave it plugged in. My manual (BMW i4) specifically says do not leave it plugged in while it is stored.
You want to leave the charge limit at 50%. Keeping it plugged in will keep it there as parasitic loads slowly discharge it.
A happy car is a plugged in car. The car will manage it all.
I can understand keeping it plugged in to manage parasitic drain if left for months. But I just got back from a week being gone and the SOC didn't change at all. 52 when I left. 52 a week later. And I drove it and it didn't suddenly drop either.
I guess I'm just curious if topping up the battery is the only reason to leave it plugged in. If so I think I'm fine following the manufacturer recommendations for a vacation since I have so little drain while parked.
@@awmustang The manufacturers are usually recommending this from a safety/conservative/fire standpoint. Having it plugged in allows the car to reach for grid power anytime it's needed, even if just to precondition before leaving.