Відео

@TerrorSyxke thank you i turned comments on..

@gerardoacosta6972 combining 4age dizzy gear /shaft to honda key shaped dizzy

@85211100 no only 16 setups

Okay

I'm not quite aware much about timing for the but currently the crankshaft is at dead center. The cam gears are non adjustable but they two were at dead center but I've been having slow ignition so I'm quite sure something ain't right

@akeemjohnson4868 need adjustable cams or a mrp broached crank sprocket gear to correct timing. Even tho you lined everything up when you tightened the timing belt, the timing advances by 10 degrees. It needs to be corrected with adjustable or broached crank sprocket gear

I have a used one but machining to resurface flywheel side

I like haltec..

Honestly there's a lot of LSD companies out there online for the c52 transmission

You can find a lot on Google

@@holdmywetnutz OK ok

Intake piping?

@@holdmywetnutz that too. And muffler pipe size

@@dainewilliams5168 exhaust piping all depends on how much power are you making

Intake piping size also in how much power you're going to make if you're going Turbo

@@holdmywetnutz that power is just under 450 for now but I'm looking to gain more in the future

Hondata s300 app

TRD OR COMETIC I use

It fits but the belts I believe won't fit cause the dual pulley is sized differently.

@@holdmywetnutz I have a single row t3 pulley

Mrp product's Barry Manon is the guy

No sir.. not familiar with the 20v engine as I do the abundance of 16v we have here in the states. Not saying I haven't seen them or put my hands on them. Just in my time all motor 16v was better due to parts and sources

Used 7afe flywheel with dowel pin modifications. And shaved a few pounds of not much

It's the torque not hp of a 7age that breaks the trans.. so far it's broken on me right after 305 ft lbs torque at low rpm.. seems when the torque band is higher up the trans last a tad bit longer cause I would assume the gears are spinning fast already. But it all depends on your setup.. I've had 350whp with 289ft trq setups never had any issues.. but I can warn you the 7a torque usually breaks 3rd gear since I have destroyed more then 5 trans with all the same gear failure. 4age would break it in a different way. I have a few buddies that have 4AGE turbo making 350 wheel but their torque is way less around 230trq range and have no issues. So it's all about that torque you're making that will let you know how far you can push the transmission

E58

I would assume it should. I haven't heard of this issue as far as cracking the block ladders from anyone I know..Wow that would be very stressful but then again at those hp levels most people I know do balancing on 4age engines. When I balanced the entire rotating Assembly and ran tomei ladder caps I have not seen this re-accuring issue at 9k. I can somewhat feel the engine less struggle to rev and smooth. Plus the price was worth it.. when I do pull the engine apart I noticed some cylinder main and rod bearings have less or even close to the same where across all the bearings. An old friend once at a performance shop in my younger days told me. "If even one or two grams difference off between two rods in two different cylinders that will create extra hundreds of pounds of extra force on that rod from that 1 or 2 gram difference" so more stress is on the heavier rods bearing and crank journal itself compared to the other.. so now an imbalance is there on the entire crankshaft from unbalanced rods... on top of all this the insane amount of vibration from a stock unbalanced crank is there too. So In your case maybe you should knife edge it as well as balance the crank and rods and flywheel. to see what happens and log the journey.. it would help the community cause most 7age racers are not at your hp levels torchering the engine for that long as you lol.. I hope this helped.

Give it's some more time like a month or so of driving and racing or what ever you enjoy doing.. then check and see if any loose.. then 2hrn you find few loose you will know it's time to loosen and retorque

appreciate your reply, thanks

I broke evey kind of stock pullry..so I went with bhj dynamics lightweigh billet pully

@@holdmywetnutz I've never heard of them but good to know were the bolts shearing due to harmonics or just the torque etc? I'll go for a Ross harmonic damper for mine.

Honda setup on a 20v is cheaper and way easier then a 16v.. I still recommend a stand alone like haltec.. but doing either setups could cost the same or close to it

Yeah still will be faster even with a shorter rev range because stock cams. but the most important part is you will still have to use correct Pistons and timing.. then followed by a dyno tune to run it's true potential over stock 4age. And for higher rpm setups dowell pin the flywheel

@@holdmywetnutz sweet using forged rods and the smallport pistons but was between minds of using the block or just boosting the 16v block due to the cams

@@dwaynerussell6421 well if you want go 4age turbo now untill you build the 7afe block you can do that like others do. And once you got cams or high flow turbo... swap it in and tune it.. 😊

@@holdmywetnutz bro do you have like a whatsapp or Facebook or something cause your knowledge can be veryyyyy helpful to me right now lol if that's OK.. I'd like to share my specs so you have a better idea of what I'm dealing with

@@dwaynerussell6421 Instagram 7ag_wraith

Thank you sir 😊

@@holdmywetnutz And the sound of them cams....

And fuel tech 450 aftermarket rods and 40 lbs boost

@@batgirlfan148 nice!! what rpm tho?

8500

@@batgirlfan148 yeah that's safe limit.. I heard rumors they shatter after 9k high boost.. I personally never pushed them that hard. Took to dang long to get hot for my blood..

@@holdmywetnutz i don’t really like push that limit because i want stay with a safety motor and enjoy all the event! With a good condition motor and win a couples race 🤷🏻‍♂️