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2013 civic. P0145c and p0497 purge low flow. Have replaced purge solenoid and fuel tank pressure sensor with OEM. Pulled canister to check for air flow, it was good. Pulled vent vale and tested, it was good and fully open/closed. Monitored fuel tank pressure via scan tool; pressure was varying between 0 inwc and -40 inwc. Appears that fuel vapor is being pulled to air i take just fine. Had mechanic friend clear codes with car running. Codes cleared and did not come back for 20 minutes. Eventually codes came back. With it being a low flow code, I wouldn't imagine it would be the gas cap as that would increase flow but I replace gas cap anyway. Codes still there, not sure what yo look into next except maybe a collapsing hose or fouled inlet to air intake.

Hey I have a Pi362 code on o01 accord with the F23A4 Motor but can’t seem to find the location of the Camshaft positioning sensor. Can you help . Thanks.

good video ..gotta use this for my Mitsubishi lets see!

Reason of changing what went wrong have an issue with putting gas in don’t wanna change my canister if it’s my gas tank valves

Thank you this helped

Hi I changed the spark plugs and battery and fuel pump On a Honda CR-V 2012 And still does not start Cranks but no start Please let me know if hat you think

Thank you soooooo MUCH

This guy is the best at explaining complex mechical challenges.

Crv 2008?

Um u made this video for what on what model is this how do we know if this is a Honda or Chrysler

I have 2009 Honda Accord And I got those 61 - 1 code and it says low voltage modulator-control. And when I try to start my car it won't start. 🤔

Someone borrowed my q3 sline and they drove it from one city to another. Engine light came on in the middle and they ignored it and all my cylinders are damaged it was a spark plug issue initially. Ehat do you think what are the things i need to do. And should i just get rid of the car now. Is it finished?

Untill it ends up shattering your transmisson from vibrating so bad like mine

Thank you for the information. Simple and straight to the point.

Great walk-through for that code. I believe I need a new pump. Occasional shut-off and shuddering while stopped.

I have a 2016 Odyssey, it has a red crossed out key warning light. You didn't mention that. Anyone know what that means?

Mine has this problem but my car won't start . It takes it awhile. To start .

Nice video

Thanks for the help I have06 accord with that code showing.

What's "wirring"? The sound it makes?

Thank you. My daughter neglected to tighten the gas cap. I think that was the only issue. Very grateful to you. God bless you.

Thank ya sir! 🫡

I have a 2005 VW Beetle , I looked all over the engine , didn't find it. Can't find anyone that knows where it is. Please show me where it's at.

Any fool make something simple sound complicated, it takes a genius to make something sound simple!-einstein

P2652 is the same code, but for the other sensor on the other side of the engine

Priceeeeeee

I get the same code but only when my battery is low. I have a parasitic drain on the battery that I thought was coming from the after market radio. So if I don’t drive it every day… by the third day I try to start it and it will turn on but tells me to reduce engine power. I took into Autozone and they said I need to replace the Canister Purge Valve… not sure if it will fix it but I’m gonna try. New Symptoms: acts like it wants to stall out at a light or stop sign

I need to know where r the clylinders in a 2001 honda oddesy

I need to know where r the clylinders in a 2001 honda oddesy

does this also make the car make an beeping sound as you drive it ? my car beeps constantly and the signal pops up.

Check fuses first.

My 05 Elantra is throwing p0137and p0138. I replaced the downstream O2 sensor and checked the wiring for damage. No damage and replacing the sensor didn't fix the issue. I hope it's not the CAT.

I’ve got this code on a 94 d16z6, didn’t pop up until after I fixed a fuel lean code and put a new vtec solenoid in the car. Car used to sputter at 3k rpms, no more sputter and runs great, just have this code now

What if the car doesn’t start at all and is throwing the power train dtc code

Would this be the same for a “Check Charge System “ message on dashboard?

I just got this code on my Mitsubishi Eclipse 99. I put Cataclean and deleted the code. It didn’t come on within 500 miles. But then I found a leak. 1 at the exhaust manifold flange 1 at the catalytic flange. I took the cat out and dipped it in soap the purple powder. Honeycomb looks good. I’m going to install it back and I hope I never see that code again or have bad acceleration.

I have 2017 Hyundai ELANTRA I got the code p0017 I replaced both VVT sensors and crankshaft sensor and still have the code after I replaced crankshaft sensor when accelerate give me a sound like muffler Specially, when I speed up

W mans

I just had new front brakes installed 8 months, suspension work a few weeks ago and new tires installed days ago. Car is making a "tambourine" sound at very low speed. It's at a very rapid rate (i.e. must faster than the rotation of the tire which makes me think it's not a stone or nail in tire).

So on a 2009 honda accord there are 2 camshaft position sensors one on the lefr and one on the right and they are locates on the drivers side of the engine bay. This is a 2.4 bybthe way. My question is which one is bank 1? I am thinking it is the left side sensor the one closest to the front of the car but am i wrong?

low fuel pressure cause fuel trim to push towards lean side not rich side.

Great information

Could it be a blown fuse/ relay that sets off the check engine light/p 325 knock sensor code? If it's not a fuse then it has to be the computer. It's been a nightmare of a situation. I was told by my last mechanic that you have to get the same part number for the pcm?. What do you think about plug-and-play computers. Do they work well? I forgot to mention that Walmart gave me a reverse battery. It was installed incorrectly and damaged one of the relays. Then a week later the check engine light came on with the knock sensor code. So the reverse polarity could have done damage to the PCM. I just hope a used computer will work. I have to pay somebody to program it. A new one at the Honda dealer is way way expensive

I replaced the fuel cap with an OEM model. If that was the problem should the error code/engine light go off by itself or is there a way to clear to engine light? Great video by the way!

Thanks for the video. My 2016 Hyundai Santa Fe threw this code. It had the update to the sensor done in 2019. Took it to dealership and they replaced the sensor for $710. Should I had been charged? I’m seeing that this is on a recall and maybe shouldn’t had. I’m so confused can’t get a straight answer.

Got a clicking noise on driver side wheel area on 2016 kia forte after it was towed about 15 miles. What could it be ?

Thanks for this video my guy. I fixed my check engine light soon as I went back to the original gas cap

I have this but a small leak and there is a warranty on my fuel pump. They dealership doesn't have the part. Hopefully once they replaced the fuel pump this goes away.

Mine's an '09. I went to a car wash place I had never been to before that is staffed for detail jobs and also has the conventional drive thru operation. The guy told me to put it in park before entering. Shortly after, my car started jerking violently. He yelled at me to let off the brake. I told him I didn't have my foot on the brake pedal. He said "Well your emergency brake is engaged or something because I see your brake lights on!" I wasn't supposed to be in "Park" I was supposed to leave it in "Neutral"! A lever that operates on a belt had come up from the pavement behind my car to roll my car forward through the carwash by easing pressure behind the rear tires! After I left, my shifter wouldn't work and my VSA light came on. When I pushed the button to shift gears, it wouldn't move out of the "Parked" position! The place also had signs that they couldn't be held liable for damages!🙄 I realized there's a button under a little panel next to the gearshift and when pressed, the shifter could move but it had to be pressed and held every single time I wanted to get out of "Park". I knew I needed to get it fixed but I put it off for a year thinking it would be very costly. I watched one tutorial video before this one but I'm always so busy that I never got around to troubleshooting. My vehicle inspection is due next month and I knew it wouldn't pass with that issue so I finally took it to a mechanic so I wouldn't have to fuss with it on my own. Turns out, it was none of these fixes and the video I had watched before this one didn't mention it either so I'm glad I didn't waste my time trying to figure it out because I'm not mechanically inclined🙃 It was a brake switch that only cost $7 to replace but the mechanic had to order it and have it brought by a runner so I also got charged his $50 hourly rate for the labor but I'm just glad to finally have it resolved and that it didn't cost an arm and a leg!🥳🙌🏼

Thank you bruv