Відео

I was left totally speechless when you discovered the non starting problem. But I note in your video intro that it starts every time.

Totally unrelated to the great content here which is inspiring me on how to build my own future rig potentially using extrusions for the interior framing, but I also *dearly* appreciate how concise your episodes are. It took me forever to get used to 15-30 minute episodes from most channels, and now suddenly seeing your 6-10 minute ones is refreshing. Same info, little fluff. Appreciated!

I like your design. My first introduction to T slot was from Misumi. They have every variation of nuts you can imagine. Pre insertion, that you have to slide in from the end. Post insertion, that can be inserted anywhere. With a spring. Without a spring. Material options. Thread size. Etc etc etc. Worth looking at even just for a laugh.

Brilliant!

Wondering when you are going to fit the heatpump/AC unit ?

What a great idea for the 3d printed slugs.😮👍

Why did you make pans to weld into the framing and not just a full sheet welded to the bottom? I have so much to learn. Been binging your build today, it’s 115 degrees F today outside so about 105 in the garage.

My truck cut off also and won't start, seems like the engine lock up..

Is there a way to contact you? I’m hoping to start a build soon and have a few questions for you. I’m really liking your channel.

Speaking of air conditioning, I noticed that some manufacturers are now offering 120V mini splits with 120v cassette cooling units inside rather than the wall mounted monstrosities. Now, if they will just offer 120v mini split units with dual 120V cassettes. So I can put a pair oin my Class A rebuild. Front and bedroom in place of the monster loud Coleman 1500's it has now. I just don't have the wall cabinet space to sacrifice to the wall units.

I apologize for laughing with you Bruce, you crack me up! I am happy to see I ain't the only one that does the "those things" like kick crap over and hit my head on things! Thanks for sharing, great channel and build! If you decide to give it up we are selling our Adventure Ready ATW!

You should’ve installed the air conditioning as step one. :)

Why not build models outside of the box? Better quality and process. Nothing in a box build is forever.

The problem I have with many "series" UA-cam channels is they tend to make the episodes longer and longer. You sir have found the sweet spot making me want a little more each time. Well done! I hope your engine fix is near. Also, it's been awhile, have you locked Krista in the basement?

Fingers crossed on the engine diagnosis front! 'Dead' cars are one thing, but it feels so much worse to me when it's a few tons more holding the floor down 🙁 Hopefully it didn't require a new high-pressure fuel pump 😳 I'm about to do a full cooling system refresh on ours in addition to a full service. It's the middle of winter here so a similar disincentive to crawl around a truck - only at the opposite end of the celsius scale. I'm impressed with how much 3D printing you're putting into the construction. Keeping weight down is super-important, despite folks often thinking because we have trucks the sky's the limit. These light trucks will pretty much last forever if you keep rust at bay and you aren't permanently running them at or very near GVM. All of the interior work in ours is hollow-core for the same reason.

As one who has a Nature's Head. Practice emptying it out before you seal it in. Empty the P bottle, slide the top off and remove it , detach the vent hose and pull it all out...

Well, i can see that the pump does have contamination, but those are too big and rusty metal pieces, doest not seem to be from the pump itelf, normaly when the pump fail you can see on the control valve mesh a fine grey metal paste. i think those rusty flakes may come from refurn lines, and if they are there you may want to check first if the return valve may have some of that inside that can make the valve stuck open and not me able to mantain pressure on the fuel rail. i did came with that problem on my DAF, that uses a CP3 pump. same exact thing. removed the control valve on the pump, no damages at all, jut a tiny rusted metal flake on the filter, then i check the return valve and it was stuck, replaced the valve, and cleaned the fuel rail and the truck runs good now, did this 2y ago and no more problems so far. that valve is on the fuel rail itself, on the front side of the engine, the electrical part may be ok and no codes appear for that, but the plunger inside may be stuck

I'm a little sceptical of the high pressure fuel pump being the cause. Perhaps someone else will jump in with an example, but I've never heard of a situation where an engine doesn't start to run very badly long before they die completely. Even when they do 'die' the pump still builds pressure, just poorly, and the engine will fire or kick every now and then when sufficient pressure builds in the fuel rail. Even when our truck had that ridiculous fracture in the tank standpipe and started sucking air once it got to half a tank, it would run badly before it stopped - as you know, halfway out of our driveway on to the road 🙄 Each time we primed the system it would run, begin to run roughly, then eventually die. It's not going to hurt to give everything a good clean, especially on a truck that's seen service for a while before you bought it (and given there is a bit of debris in the filter screen), but my money is still on an electrical issue. The failure has a finality and suddenness to it that cries electrical fault to me.

Actually, you are so lucky Because that job is not easy to do But you can do it , I did it on a bus, not a truck, and I don't think you can rebuild your HP PUMP, Before you replace original injectors that on the truck , go and check the injectors are bad. I don't think they're damaged because there are little bits of metal on the pump. Mine have lots of metal in my pump . If you are lucky you only need do clean interior fuel system and get a new latest CP4 pump

I agree with the above poster, check the fuel pump solenoid first. Sorry it still ain't running, but if you GOTTA break down, you did it in the best place!

Not sure it's the fuel pump, because of a bit of debris . Should check the solenoid on fuel pump, see if that's actually opening for fuel to go to pump

Very lucky that you found it "in your shop"! Sad that's what it was. Been there played that tune on my 400hp 5.9 Cumminsa

Oh man i feel for ya buddy but you got this! Good luck with the flush and rebuild ;o)

You many need to check the engine bay ground connectors, under the driver side wheel cavity, there are 4 ground connectors. Another possibility is that the ECU itself may have a malfunction between the wires and the immobilizer, cause the SAM will see the immobilizer first and reports that is functional, but the ECU may not see it, and does not provide power to injectors, only to starter. if you can, you can disable the immobilizer via Mitsubishi software and see if it works. That engine and most of electronics are from Iveco. Iveco daily is almost the same thing and they are notorious to have immobilizer problems that prevents the truck from starting, they do crank but no start, just like yours do.

Great build. Does @pierre-carlboulanger7872 have a build thread or channel to look at? His exoskeleton is different than yours. Did he use the same full wall size composite panels or did he make his own panels?

Just found your channel, been enjoying it. I’m planning a NPS build this fall. Did you try starting fluid to see if it would fire?

Oh Bruce - your frustration, quite understandably, is very clear - I hope you get this fixed soon

Haha, was I the person. I watched this video when it was posted and was not able to leave a comment. When you have vehicle issues, it stops the house build! 😢 The worst. Watching your newest video now!

Hey Bruce, you are going in the right direction. Go on , 1st do injector pulse test, and if it's good, don't remove hp pump remove all the injectors and turn 180º and crank the engine . This way you can find is how many injector are bad and is there's Enough fuel pressure to open the injector. This is the way I do on my 4p10 . You can do this with no problem with this method. Again , you only need to turn your injectors 180. Remember to connect injector connectors and don't connect injector return line. If you need any help, let us know 😉

My diesel pickup in the tank spun round, there was no fuel getting to the hp fuel pump even though the tank was half full. Had to fill the tank completely to get the low pressure to pump fuel without air. Have you taken the feed or return line off the hp fuel pump to check you have fuel without air ?

Dude, I'm sorry this is still such an issue. Wish I could offer some technical assistance but you are already way beyond my pay grade! I hope you get it figured out soon!

That little no-start bugbear is sure hiding from you, Bruce. How often will swapping two sensors fix things? One may still be bad.

This is heartbreaking to watch, bud.

Check your injectors by cracking by the fittings and cranking it to make sure they have fuel at them before throwing money at new ones. My Cummins has lost fuel to the injectors so many times I now carry a box end wrench with a fuel line slot cut in it so I can "burp" the lines. Then, if they have fuel, you may have a signal issue to the injectors. But, I'm an Isuzi & Cummins guy, so your experience may be different. Good the codes are gone. Now just make sure you have fuel at the injectors. Cycling my fuel pump does help, but when I get air inside the injectors it takes a good burping. If I can get 2 out of 6 firing it will eventually run enough to get the others fueled.

Hey Bruce thanks for the video on inspecting the back brakes. It helped save a lot of time. Cheers!

Hi, I have a 2018 Canter/fuso. The Traction light stays on. Gave it to the dealer and they said the software need updating but can't do as have to get update from Japan. You have any suggection. Code is B3DF4ED

Oxidation, now go and librally apply gobs of Vaseline all over those terminals, doing that robs the air of contact, keeping that stud & terminals shiny clean. Vaseline stays soft, collects the crud not the connections.

Hi mate is the pcv filter can cause the truck to not start? Need to know please I have the same truck engine 4p10 fuso

I really like your BIG old press brake, Bruce. Are you self-taught with CAD? Don't be too hard on the beeper/radio. It's paying for all your goodies and lifestyle.

I have a 2007 Fuso FG 4x4 that has “issues.” Zeus also has a slow battery drain that I can’t figure out. Sometime he won’t start… I’m cheap, so I give the starter a couple light taps with a hammer and he fires up.

Regarding the no-start, have you tried sticking the tip of your tongue out the left corner of your mouth while working on it?! I feel your pain, we have had several electronic issues with our 2015 FGB, with only 12k on the clock, I'm sure road salt had a hand in it all.

Oh Bruce, you remind me of a younger me. I am a retired Power LIneman Troubleman, and I have been called off so many of my projects over my working years, just like you did in this video, that I had to laugh. Most of the time, for me, the car rollover calls I got involved our poles or ground mounted equipment and took hours to repair. broke poles, wires on the ground and half the town out of power! I'm jealous of your press brake. I have a 18" version in my shop. I used motorcycle shock absorber springs to raise mine. It has the same air over hydraulic jack you have! Good progress this week Bud. Yeah, I've got my alarm set for your videos. I have the same 63" big screen tv you have in my shop. Plus surround sound so I can watch videos from almost anywhere in my 3000 sqft shop. (What can I say, I live in Texas!)

One low-budget suggestion: You should be able to confirm whether or not the injectors are firing with a stethoscope. I have a Lisle that works great for isolating bearing noise. Will need something fancier to see if they're firing at the right time, though.

What's up Bruce. I see you have the Duonic transmission. How's it been holding up? I'm thinking about buying a Mitsubishi canter with the same transmission 2017. How many miles you have on her? Any problems with the transmission so far? Oh and good luck finding and fixing the no-start issue.

Bruce, I have an EGTsensor for you as well as a dc power supply for 5v reference

I think with the injector pipes off and the system open then pressure is lower? Can you get hold of a scope to probe the injector pulse?

Buen día excelente video. Como podría conseguir información tecnica de los camiones fuso. Gracias por su respuesta.

Super helpful..How do you clear a code?

Good job and its good you show how sometimes its can be a maze to diagnose. When you check your resistance did you check your reference voltage and ground from the computer? Than start with thing you know it already bad / more probable otherwise you can look for chimeras. You have def : temperatures sensor fault, start with that. You can put a resistance or old part / switch part or a potentiometer to give a good signal and test. Its already broken so you will have to repair it anyway and there are a posibility that is your problem.

Hey, look, dont judge me, i know its potentially the stupidest suggestion so far..... but.... hows the battery in the key? I figure NORMALLY a vehicle shouldnt even turn over if the chip in the key isnt transmitting, but i've heard of stupider design decisions in some of these trucks. Is it possible that the "immobiliser function" still allows the starter to crank but doesnt issue the ignition command? I dont have any examples of a immobiliser system doing it that way, so i can't back up my suggestion. But at this point i think you just need heaps of potentially stupid theories to start whittling down every possible issue