4160 Tuesdays
4160 Tuesdays
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Unloading a lavender still
Bulgarian lavender production, unloading 1.5 tonnes of steamed and steaming lavender, after we watched the essential oil bring extracted.
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Відео

Scenthusiasm Vanilla Pompona from Peru
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In which I talk to the camera, in Arthur's absence, about a packet of materials I received. (We didn't meet at WPC, we met at In-Cosmetics.) www.sekutvanilla.com
Scenthusiasm: SUSTAINABLE PERFUMERY MATERIALS - IT'S COMPLICATED
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In which we explore why it's not good enough to ask if something is 100% natural and assume that this is going to make it sustainable.
Scenthusiasm: SCENTS OF FIG & COCONUT
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Evoking warm weather fruit and suntan lotion
Scenthusiasm: AMBERGRIS ACCORDS WITH HARRY
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In which Harry arrived with his box of fascinating things so we talked about making his ambergris accord. If you can't understand what Harry or I are saying, please hop over to the Patreon, where the subtitled version is sitting. I'm not doing all that twice! Anyway if it says hamburger, it means ambergris.
Scenthusiasm: GETTING TO KNOW NEW BULGARIAN BOTANICALS
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In Summer 2024 I'm going back to Bulgaria for the Perfumed Plants of Bulgaria week, so here we investigated four of the new materials which arrived from Rose Overdose and practised Rule 3: Getting to know your materials.
SCENTING A BALLET: By a Thread
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A conversation with dancer and choreographer, Marika Brussel about her new ballet - The Odyssey from Penelope's viewpoint.
4160Tuesdays X House of Burlesque - our fabulous new fragrance
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A short film about what we're working on in May 2024 to launch in autumn. The most glamorous perfume we've ever bottled! Her's the link: igg.me/at/4160XHOB Always bear in mind that crowdfunding platforms take a percentage of our income for commercial projects, so there is absolutely no need to give them the "tip" they ask for to cover their costs. When they present you with that option, make su...
Scenthusiasm: WHICH FILTER PAPERS
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In which we fold flat Whatman filter papers to look and behave just like the expensive pleated ones. (Coffee filters aren't fine enough for perfume.)
Scenthusiasm: WHAT WE MEAN BY TEXTURE IN PERFUME
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I realise that I keep talking about the texture of fragrance materials, and this is a cross-modalism thing. After working with aromatics for a while - depending on how much practice we put in - they start to feel soft or smooth, rough or pointy, deep, light, fluffy, thick or fine, and many other things. That's what we mean. When you smell your materials, how do they feel?
The EVERYTHING about perfume film
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In which Arthur's housemate, Francisco, who is now working for us part time at 4160Tuesdays while he's recording an album, joins us to have a chat about perfume.
SCENTHUSIASM: Five in Ten with Harry - Green Materials
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Harrison Sherwood (of Harrison Joseph) and I share our latest discoveries. For more on these, see Scenthusiasm on Patreon.
Scenthusiasm: PIPETTE ETIQUETTE
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Pipettiquette? In which we talk about how to prevent your materials from evaporating when stored in bottles with glass pipettes built in.
THE MANET FOLIES-BERGERE PROJECT: Scenthusiasm Scent School:
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I worked with the Courtauld, a group of young people and artist Jeremy Deller on creating the aroma of Manet's famous painting, The Bar at the Folies Bergere. Here's where I tell Arthur all about it. This one is from what I choose to call the archive - the films I forgot to publish or just put in the wrong place.
SCENTHUSIASM SCENT SCHOOL: SM1 + SM2 PART 2:
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SCENTHUSIASM SCENT SCHOOL: SM1 SM2 PART 2:
SCENTHUSIASM VISITS ITS ROOTS
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SCENTHUSIASM VISITS ITS ROOTS
SCENTHUSIASM: Exploring "green" materials
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SCENTHUSIASM: Exploring "green" materials
Scenthusiasm: PERFUMER H FRAGRANCES
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Scenthusiasm: PERFUMER H FRAGRANCES
SCENTHUSIASM: Q&A The Perfect Fragrance?
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SCENTHUSIASM: Q&A The Perfect Fragrance?
Scenthusiasm: LIPSTICK AND THE FATHER OF AROMATHERAPY
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Scenthusiasm: LIPSTICK AND THE FATHER OF AROMATHERAPY
PERFUMERY: the only way to find out what works
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PERFUMERY: the only way to find out what works
Scenthusiasm Scent School: SMIDGEN OR SHEDLOAD?
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Scenthusiasm Scent School: SMIDGEN OR SHEDLOAD?
SCENTHUSIASM: Perfumery Classes
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SCENTHUSIASM: Perfumery Classes
Scenthusiasm Scent School: WOODY AMBERS PART 2
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Scenthusiasm Scent School: WOODY AMBERS PART 2
Scenthusiasm: DOES MUSK SMELL MUSKY?
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Scenthusiasm: DOES MUSK SMELL MUSKY?
USING WOODY AMBERS: Scenthusiasm Scent School
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USING WOODY AMBERS: Scenthusiasm Scent School
Working with Jean Kerleo - Guest: Jacques Pantazes visits 4160Tuesdays
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Working with Jean Kerleo - Guest: Jacques Pantazes visits 4160Tuesdays
CAPTURED BY CANDLELIGHT: a Yuletide tale
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CAPTURED BY CANDLELIGHT: a Yuletide tale
Scenthusiasm: IS DPG MAGIC?
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Scenthusiasm: IS DPG MAGIC?
POMEGRANATES REPRESENT WHAT?!
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POMEGRANATES REPRESENT WHAT?!

КОМЕНТАРІ

  • @cg8330
    @cg8330 5 днів тому

    Very nice ❤

  • @photographedemode
    @photographedemode 5 днів тому

    Nice! I saw Lavender Distillation in France in the Mont Ventoux area, very interesting experience.

    • @SarahMcCartney4160
      @SarahMcCartney4160 5 днів тому

      I've been up Mont Ventoux but only by car, not the Tour de France way. My childhood penfriend lives nearby and gave me some of their local lavender which was also very lovely.

  • @bassmjm
    @bassmjm 6 днів тому

    Any estimate of how much EO was distilled from that amount of material?

    • @SarahMcCartney4160
      @SarahMcCartney4160 6 днів тому

      I think the owner said 30kg, but I shall have to listen to another of the films I made to check. It's way higher than rose, for example.

  • @GohAhweh
    @GohAhweh 6 днів тому

    Neato!

    • @SarahMcCartney4160
      @SarahMcCartney4160 6 днів тому

      Exactly, but only with a great deal of practice I think.

  • @Betmas2
    @Betmas2 7 днів тому

    Thank you for this! Much needed info about synthetics.

    • @SarahMcCartney4160
      @SarahMcCartney4160 7 днів тому

      You're welcome. It's important to me to try to find these things out.

  • @LightOfJoy1
    @LightOfJoy1 16 днів тому

    I love rosewood! It was hard finding it in perfumery for a while. I'm so glad you're able to set aside your own personal associations to use it. If one did like rosewood, what would be a good one for it to be overdosed in, aside from a chypre?

    • @SarahMcCartney4160
      @SarahMcCartney4160 15 днів тому

      @@LightOfJoy1It fits anywhere linalool would, so I can hardly think of anything it wouldn't enhance.

  • @francescoberzioli4579
    @francescoberzioli4579 16 днів тому

    Hello Sarah, can you tell the name of the book by Jean Claude Ellena you mentioned in the video? Thank you so much!!

  • @chernyylebed2050
    @chernyylebed2050 16 днів тому

    I could listen to you for hours🤍 Thanks, Sarah! Amazingly informative as always🌞

    • @SarahMcCartney4160
      @SarahMcCartney4160 16 днів тому

      Thank you. I wanted to do this quickly so off I went. 😊

  • @justaddlight
    @justaddlight 16 днів тому

    Interesting about that Palo Santo variant. Just the other day my brother asked me for a fragrance that smelled like a garage and I was stumped. Fahrenheit maybe, but it's quite a bit orangy and floral. Bvlgari's Black maybe too, but not in the drydown. As for the quip about not missing what you don't know about....👌 My kinda response. 😂

  • @fhoeflich
    @fhoeflich 16 днів тому

    Beautifully reminiscent of 4160T of several years ago, when you filmed by yourself. Peaceful. Quietly introspective. We aren't watching you breathe, we're watching you _smell_. Somehow you go on for 16:00 smelling rich vanilla without going anosmic as a bat. If you are planning on a group purchase of 1-2kg, I would like to participate. I am anxious to discover if there was a CO2 extract, but I would go in on the Doble Concentracion in any case I think. And ask other apprentice perfumers along for the numbers, if you wished it.

    • @SarahMcCartney4160
      @SarahMcCartney4160 16 днів тому

      I think the longer we practise, the better the brain is at continuously reporting in. It's like long distance swimming. We build endurance, but with smelling it's in our brains.

    • @SarahMcCartney4160
      @SarahMcCartney4160 16 днів тому

      And if I save up, I'll let you know.

    • @fhoeflich
      @fhoeflich 16 днів тому

      @@SarahMcCartney4160 Will try to keep it in mind - my nose, or my brain, still gets tired. Today's smells will include: Jasmolactone, Javanol, a gorgeous French Lavender EO that (undiluted) assassinated my first perfume, Lilyflore, Lime Organic EO, Linalool, Linalyl Acetate, Z11 and Z11 HD. No fragrant food or drink today, no personal scent worn, and my nose and brain will certainly sleep well tonight. The 500 yard endurance swim. Thank you for giving me a bit of perspective, and even hope.

    • @SarahMcCartney4160
      @SarahMcCartney4160 15 днів тому

      @@fhoeflich You're really welcome, and I appreciate your kind words.

  • @embryonique
    @embryonique 16 днів тому

    Those "little things" are Eppendorf tubes. ;) These vanillas sound amazing.

    • @SarahMcCartney4160
      @SarahMcCartney4160 16 днів тому

      Thank you. They leak. I'm not impressed. 😂

    • @embryonique
      @embryonique 16 днів тому

      @@SarahMcCartney4160 They're not meant to be filled to the brim or stored on their sides.

    • @SarahMcCartney4160
      @SarahMcCartney4160 16 днів тому

      ​@embryonique thank you again, that explains a great deal. I'm sure they are very good at doing what they do.😁

  • @Betmas2
    @Betmas2 16 днів тому

    ❤❤❤❤

  • @GohAhweh
    @GohAhweh 16 днів тому

    a very timely, informative,delicious and enlightening episode. Thank You 🐠✨️

    • @SarahMcCartney4160
      @SarahMcCartney4160 16 днів тому

      Thanks. It's strange with no Arthur but not impossible!

  • @DakotaSmith000
    @DakotaSmith000 18 днів тому

    I found your fragrances on luckyscents, which are just simply wonderful! And now seeing that you have a UA-cam channel. Thank you for all your hard work and dedication (: .

  • @spottedbybarbie
    @spottedbybarbie 20 днів тому

    Whats your take on tester perfumes?

    • @SarahMcCartney4160
      @SarahMcCartney4160 20 днів тому

      I don't know that there's a take to be had is there? They're expensive for us to give to stores, but an essential part of helping customers to decide which one to buy. Do you own a brand?

  • @GohAhweh
    @GohAhweh 25 днів тому

    🌱Another informative session. Thank you for introducing me to a ML Ramnarain. I will soon join your other platform. ✨️🩵✨️

  • @alokpandey9532
    @alokpandey9532 25 днів тому

    Very good discussion. Also, Cypriol oil is from the root of the grass and it has black nutty lumps. Grows like a weed in swampy areas. Buffaloes love it.

  • @marcescalonagaba1978
    @marcescalonagaba1978 25 днів тому

    I’ve tended to think that sustainability in fragrance materials-especially biodegradability-is significant only when dealing with tons and tons of detergent products and industrial cleansers and such. Please enlighten me if I’m wrong? My sense is that anyone who cares that deeply about it should lobby against production of non-biodegradable products (and perhaps some already do) and yet aren’t some of those chemicals byproducts of some other process, and so it’s a question of whether they’ll be harnessed or just dumped somewhere. Agh, the subject really is too complex, and caring about sustainability I feel must be radical, or else it’s just a marketing tool.

    • @SarahMcCartney4160
      @SarahMcCartney4160 25 днів тому

      I think the biggest problem is when people decide it's too complicated, or that their actions are not significant. How are you doing to lobby? Use less detergent, wash your clothes less often, buy biodegradable detergent. Yell about it.

    • @marcescalonagaba1978
      @marcescalonagaba1978 25 днів тому

      @@SarahMcCartney4160 I just feel that if science has established that something is harmful then it’s fundamentally unethical to keep its production legal.

    • @SarahMcCartney4160
      @SarahMcCartney4160 24 дні тому

      @@marcescalonagaba1978 Read Doughnut Economics by Kate Raworth. With the majority of materials it's like poisons, it's all about the amount, and the balance. Humans are harmful to the planet. Cars are worse than washing powder. Let's ban cars. They are fundamentally unethical, and yet they are also useful, as is washing powder. If we stay in the "doughnut" we are good. It's complicated.

  • @GO2CUT
    @GO2CUT 25 днів тому

    I will definitely try that fig accord! Verdox, Fructose & Stemone. Three materials I really like. Sarah, there was a video, where you both talked about an accord of "burnt rubber". I tried to find it again, but no luck. I think it was something with oakmoss? Could you enlighten me how to achieve the "burnt rubber" smell? Much love, and thank you guys! You're always so soothing 🙂

    • @SarahMcCartney4160
      @SarahMcCartney4160 25 днів тому

      Oh my goodness, I wish I could remember. I'll see if it's written down somewhere.

  • @embryonique
    @embryonique 25 днів тому

    What is the name of that solvent you mentioned around the 8-minute mark? It sounds like "orgione" but I can't find it...

  • @romaknyazev8508
    @romaknyazev8508 26 днів тому

    Very true about ketchup! I ate it all my childhood in USSR. The only good ketchup we had was from Bulgaria

  • @DawahDigital
    @DawahDigital 28 днів тому

    If this was a paid for course, I’d bloody pay !!! Just saying. Thank you for making this content available for us freely. I’m learning loads and am close to ordering my first starter kit.

  • @DawahDigital
    @DawahDigital 28 днів тому

    I’ve learnt more from this one video than any other on this topic. Thank you 🙏

  • @zubeyrahmedhassan4018
    @zubeyrahmedhassan4018 Місяць тому

    I wonder if your provide online courses to learn perfumery?.

    • @SarahMcCartney4160
      @SarahMcCartney4160 29 днів тому

      Yes, I am rebuilding my online self-learning course at the moment and there is the ongoing community and resource at www.patreon.com/Scenthusiasm

  • @TMcB23
    @TMcB23 Місяць тому

    Ever so slightly bleach is a perfect description for how I’ve always detected coconut scents. I love the smell of gorse flowers but synthetic coconut always frustrates me as a fragrance when it’s strong

    • @SarahMcCartney4160
      @SarahMcCartney4160 Місяць тому

      A little goes a long way with the coconutty lactones. Yes, Arthur is getting too good at this!

  • @oriananeves8526
    @oriananeves8526 Місяць тому

    Loved seeing you at the IAO awards! Wanted to say hello, but got shy 😊

    • @SarahMcCartney4160
      @SarahMcCartney4160 Місяць тому

      Nooo! I am really not that scary. (Or am I? 😂)

    • @oriananeves8526
      @oriananeves8526 Місяць тому

      @@SarahMcCartney4160 Not at all! I don’t like to bother and was also a bit starstruck

    • @SarahMcCartney4160
      @SarahMcCartney4160 28 днів тому

      @@oriananeves8526 I don't always remember who people are, but I do like being talked to. 😁

  • @redcupidbowlips3793
    @redcupidbowlips3793 Місяць тому

    Thank you much for this 🙏🏼 Your hair looks fabulous! 💖

    • @SarahMcCartney4160
      @SarahMcCartney4160 Місяць тому

      Thanks, I've taken to painting it with a big brush and crossing my fingers.

  • @GohAhweh
    @GohAhweh Місяць тому

    🥥 Thank You 🩵

    • @SarahMcCartney4160
      @SarahMcCartney4160 Місяць тому

      Any time. Do you have requests?

    • @GohAhweh
      @GohAhweh Місяць тому

      @SarahMcCartney4160 frankincense, copal, cedar needle..palo santo..maybe dried roses.. achieving these elements pungent nature is my scenthusiasm.. your thoughts on c12 mna in the mix? Just an amateur here dreaming..

    • @GO2CUT
      @GO2CUT 25 днів тому

      @@GohAhweh ohooo a scenthusiast like me! these aldehydes (esp, the 12 mna) are little b*tches sometimes. I always tend to fall for it. It's like "yeah, use me, I will fit perfectly in there!" and then it doesn't. Try to use it in aquatics a lot, but even at low low low low doses it fails me. Or do I fail? yes, probably. Let's keep on learning <3

  • @fhoeflich
    @fhoeflich Місяць тому

    Hi, Sarah. Finally speaking up after some weeks of lurking to thank you all for discussing the fractionated nature of the green materials and how smelling any one in isolation does not and cannot relate the entire story. By coincidence I have been diluting cis-3-hexenol, cis-3-hexenyl acetate & friends the last couple of days for Sam's course. I've been praying to get through the Cs at long last just because I've tired of the metallic, persistent sorts of odors and wondering how on God's green I could ever be expected to work these into one of my perfumes. But it sounds as though eventually I will blend some of them together and get: a green bean, a snow pea, a corn-husk or the grass beneath my bare feet once again. I am grateful to you for that.

    • @SarahMcCartney4160
      @SarahMcCartney4160 Місяць тому

      Hello, you made me smile, thank you. I don't think that aromachemicals can ever be understood in isolation. Identified yes, but too easily dismissed or admired, only to transform when paired or blended. Those two materials are too much by themselves.

  • @soulpenalty6587
    @soulpenalty6587 Місяць тому

    Bulgarian immortelle? I didn't knew that it grows here. I have a question about your linden - does it smell like a fresh linden blossom, or like a dried one? All absolutes and Co2 I've been able to find here are made from dried flowers and do not smell like the living or freshly picked plant. Linden tea is very popular here, and my products smells just like it. The linden just started blooming, and that's the most beautiful natural scent! Trying to find a natural & realistic smelling linden perfume is what got me to DIY perfumery.

    • @SarahMcCartney4160
      @SarahMcCartney4160 Місяць тому

      All CO2 extracts must be made from dried materials or they don't work. It smells fabulous and to me it is enough like the blossom.

    • @soulpenalty6587
      @soulpenalty6587 Місяць тому

      Good to know, thanks! Would you mind sharing your supplier's contacts?

    • @vanillinchillin743
      @vanillinchillin743 Місяць тому

      I like the fun color in your hair!

  • @mr.moneypenny
    @mr.moneypenny Місяць тому

    I'm really curious of linden oil, I've never tried it, I only know how linden flowers smell, cause there are so many nearby my place, that I can smell them in my flat. :) But the way you described it, it's something different than I know. And I wonder if it's a matter of dilution, variety of linden, or what. "My" linden smells kinda like honey, fresh melon and greenery.

    • @SarahMcCartney4160
      @SarahMcCartney4160 20 днів тому

      A CO2 extract will always be slightly different from standing under the tree, but since you mention it, I could also describe mine that like too.

  • @OMParfumFragrances
    @OMParfumFragrances Місяць тому

    yea!

  • @canascarlos9790
    @canascarlos9790 Місяць тому

    Hi Sarah and Harry, is the last material Para Cresyl Pivalate?

  • @GohAhweh
    @GohAhweh Місяць тому

    🤍

  • @mohishodari1882
    @mohishodari1882 Місяць тому

    Yes .. he’s the man

  • @Perfumery_by_Sabin
    @Perfumery_by_Sabin Місяць тому

    Is that Harry Sherwood by chance?

  • @da88king
    @da88king Місяць тому

    Great video! Thank you. Do you know anything about the working conditions of the people harvesting the plants? I‘ve allready heard they can be problematic in Bulgaria.

    • @SarahMcCartney4160
      @SarahMcCartney4160 Місяць тому

      Yes, I've been there and seen them working. The family I work with get out in the fields and work there too. Most of the picking is done by migrant workers who live in temporary accommodation, much like the fruit picking my contemporaries did when we were students. (I didn't. Too soft.) The owner of Rose Overdose believes that you attract the best workers with decent conditions. What have you heard?

  • @smellyfrags5214
    @smellyfrags5214 Місяць тому

    Hedione characteristic explained, love it ;)

    • @SarahMcCartney4160
      @SarahMcCartney4160 Місяць тому

      Thanks. I can hardly smell it on its own but I appreciate its superpowers.

  • @pami333
    @pami333 Місяць тому

    Technically oakmoss is a lichen, therefor not a plant, but a symbiosis of a fungus and either an alga or a cyanobacteria. And I'm jealous of the elderflower CO2 extract 🧐

    • @SarahMcCartney4160
      @SarahMcCartney4160 Місяць тому

      I believe it to be a form of bark beard. 😂 I'm going to see if I can bring elderflower home with me.

  • @justaddlight
    @justaddlight Місяць тому

    Elderflower really is quite marvelous. But I confess to being one of those people who used to group all woody ambers into the undesirable category. Very easy to oversimplify without actually sampling the materials. But all the tools in the toolbox are useful after all. I just wouldn't go doing detail work with a sledgehammer. 🔨😂

  • @GohAhweh
    @GohAhweh Місяць тому

    🫧I adore linden flower..i was obsessed about 45 years ago.. must revisit!🫧 Thank you both for another enjoyable and informative show.🫧 ...frustrating that i am an ocean away, would love to take a class with you. 🫧

  • @chrisbedeux2995
    @chrisbedeux2995 Місяць тому

    Yay the joys of a new 4160 Tuesdays vid they makes me feel like i have other perfume friends 😊 I was very lucky this week and bought Ruth Mastenbroek Signature & Cherry Who ? For really good prices but what I wanted to ask is there a slight nod to Ruth in Macaque ? That I thought I could pick up.

    • @SarahMcCartney4160
      @SarahMcCartney4160 Місяць тому

      Do you have my original Macaque? Not the new ones which someone else made? I hadn't smelled Signature when I made it, and in general I try to avoid any influence by other perfumers. Goddess of Love & Perfume was evoked by the Paul Poiret fragrance Fruit Défendu from 1918, but only because it was long gone.

    • @chrisbedeux2995
      @chrisbedeux2995 Місяць тому

      @@SarahMcCartney4160 Yeah its the Macaque that you made they don’t smell alike just a floating feeling great minds I guess

    • @chrisbedeux2995
      @chrisbedeux2995 Місяць тому

      Yes I have the Macaque you made they don’t smell alike but have the same floaty feeling to me great minds, I guess

    • @SarahMcCartney4160
      @SarahMcCartney4160 Місяць тому

      @@chrisbedeux2995 That must be it. 😁

  • @ghostkat92
    @ghostkat92 Місяць тому

    I don’t see the link for the crowdfunding

  • @bassmjm
    @bassmjm Місяць тому

    Are the "Clouds" perfumes' names a nod to Joni Mitchell?

  • @GohAhweh
    @GohAhweh Місяць тому

  • @onalltwos6340
    @onalltwos6340 Місяць тому

    I like this playful approach to learning materials and their interactions! I'm a beginner and feel that the "right way" of doing things where you must determine an experimental formula, create it, and archive it that vial forever may be a bit unnecessarily clinical. I can absolutely see how that approach would be appropriate when you have a concrete goal in mind and want your end result to be a finished product, but I feel that your approach of iterating within a single vial, but backtracking and using a new vial when you get a bit too lost, is powerful for rapidly prototyping and learning your materials.

    • @SarahMcCartney4160
      @SarahMcCartney4160 Місяць тому

      I'm pleased that it's useful. Thanks for stopping by to write.

  • @adryancavar7515
    @adryancavar7515 Місяць тому

    Hope there will be a part two!

    • @SarahMcCartney4160
      @SarahMcCartney4160 Місяць тому

      I think I published it already! I'll check.

    • @adryancavar7515
      @adryancavar7515 Місяць тому

      @@SarahMcCartney4160 Yes I saw the other videos with Harry and loved them too! Very charismatic person and great dynamic between you two. Please bring him on as often as you like

  • @1NoahOne
    @1NoahOne Місяць тому

    These videos are great but sometimes you skim over the ingredients really quickly and it is hard to hear what you are speaking about. Can you repeat the names more or subtitle the name of the ingredient when you speak about it?

    • @SarahMcCartney4160
      @SarahMcCartney4160 Місяць тому

      If you would tag the times where you can't hear clearly, then I will write it out for you. This is actually me going slowly. In earlier films I spoke faster.

  • @justaddlight
    @justaddlight Місяць тому

    Suddenly I either want to hold a japanese fan or play the accordian. Can't decide which. 😉😆 Thank you Sarah! 🪗

  • @luigiricci184
    @luigiricci184 Місяць тому

    🫶🫶🫶