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PERFUMERY: the only way to find out what works
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- Опубліковано 16 лют 2024
- I'm always telling people to experiment with their materials to find out what happens. Last week I got a message asking me what I mean by "experimenting", so in this film we potter about a bit with labdabum, Hedione, Cedramber and Ethyl Maltol to see what works best.
To create a perfume, carrying out different tests - experiments - and making versions of a fragrance - known as modifications or mods - is essential. Keep your small test batches, return to them and see how they develop.
![Дон ДОН, Алаудинов и СБЕЖАВШИЕ из под Курска ахматовцы 😁 [Пародия]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/dEfCf5IK26Q/mqdefault.jpg)
I like this playful approach to learning materials and their interactions! I'm a beginner and feel that the "right way" of doing things where you must determine an experimental formula, create it, and archive it that vial forever may be a bit unnecessarily clinical. I can absolutely see how that approach would be appropriate when you have a concrete goal in mind and want your end result to be a finished product, but I feel that your approach of iterating within a single vial, but backtracking and using a new vial when you get a bit too lost, is powerful for rapidly prototyping and learning your materials.
I'm pleased that it's useful. Thanks for stopping by to write.
Sarah, the way you describe scents in abstract ways, or even sounds has really helped me! Reviewing my experiments, I've been finding I have a hard time using adjectives to write down my results.
There aren't enough scent adjectives. We have to borrow them from other senses.
Your videos are all so relaxing, I'm so glad I found this hobby ❤
Thank you.
7:50 that "odd one" was me I guess! You know, as being German, I think I meant something like "odd dilution" (like weird, or not usual etc) but I had a good laugh today andI am happy to be referenced in a video ;-)
😁 Thank you for taking it in the spirit in which it was meant. The English language invites jokes about double meanings and I cannot resist a maths joke.
‘Twas a lovely Potter
All we needed was more tea.
When they were talking about seeing the pig again I thought she was going to say that they'd killed the pig...
That hadn't crossed my mind! But fair point. 🐖
I have a question about these "intense woody ambers" if I could. On fragrantica, there's a note or material or something that some people are hilariously calling "screamwood," described as something like plywood chips soaked in isopropyl. When I read it I was struck because it was a perfect match with what I was experiencing in some perfumes. The funny thing is, it seems to appear (to me at least) long after the dry-down, but I hate it so much I have to scrub it off. I know it's in Moschino's Toy Boy, and it might be in Ormonde Jayne's Arabesque but I haven't had the courage to try it again. I imagine it's not reasonable for me to ask you if you know what the material might be, but could you suggest any ambers that you're pretty sure it *isn't* that would be safe a safe bet for me to try in formulas? Sounds like cedramber is likely to be inoffensive? Thank you.
"Screamwood" is funny. I think the worst is Amber Xtreme. I honestly don't pay much attention to other brands' fragrances so I don't know what those smell like. Norlimanol is another. Cedramber is definitely not it.
Thank you very much! @@SarahMcCartney4160
was the material at 2:10 isobutyl phenylacetate?
Yes, it's a rosy honey thing.
I vote yes on the buzzcut and pink dye.
It's shorter and pinker but I ducked the buzz cut.
Hello. What an amazing video.
One question, is it safe to keep diluted materials in dropper bottles? I dilute mine in ethanol but tend to keep most of them in cap sealed bottles and not in dropper ones. I have droppers laying around and would like to use them however I'm afraid ethanol will evaporate easily and I will be left with different dilutions? Thank you!
Yes it is. I think I made a whole short film about this. Empty the pipette before you put it back in the bottle every time. Don't leave liquid in the tube.
How do you clean the screw on bottles and caps for and after the experiments? Do you always clean them with alcohol because I found that to be quite expensive and my dishwasher seemed to have been to powerful and broke some. Aspecially the cap I find hard to clean once you shake it, like you did in the video, they seem to keep the smell more.
Any tips?
I only reuse them for the same materials. Those for experiments, I'm forced to wash and recycle. Mostly I soak them in the bath overnight.
I see the plant :) jade isn't the easiet indoors!
The money plant? There's a lot of natural light so they are all pretty happy in there. 🪴
@@SarahMcCartney4160 the first one from the beginning of the video, looks like a jade plant :) 🌱
@notesdecoeur I just Googled it and found that a money plant is also called a jade plant. That one is one off the tiny cuttings from the huge one.
Sarah I find your vids very smooth and nicely explained I have tried many things I still can’t make a citrusy pineapple just wondering if have any pointers or any advice.
Sorry I missed this. Pineapple is a tricky one as the aromachemicals which make the fragrance also appear in parmesan cheese. There is a Robertet pineapple liquid which is good; you could add that to your citrus blend. Ethyl Butyrate and Allyl Amyl Glycolate are two of the most pinapple-ish.