Відео

Super glad you found it useful! It's definitely not the hardest job I've ever done on a car - but it did take a LOT of patience. With some cold beverages, some good music, and breaks when you get frustrated... you can definitely do it and be in great shape. Putting some grease on the end of the screwdriver when putting the e-clips into place helps too! I appreciate the "brave man" comment - although I think I'm more stubborn 😂 Given enough time, anyone can eventually do it - that's more of the boat I fell into. Learned a TON doing this - I can easily see this being easier the next time and then simple the time after that.

You're very welcome - definitely my pleasure to post these types of videos. There wasn't a ton to reference when I was doing it. Parts are absolutely getting harder to find! Kudos on doing the lower wiring harness - I really wish I did that and and MAF wiring. Glad you found the false firewall trick useful! Thanks for watching and commenting 🙂

I have PDF of the owners manual - you can search your favorite search engine for "Brian Clifton Mercedes R129" and you should find my page. I don't think UA-cam lets me put links

@@bsclifton Thank you, much appreciated!

Awesome! Replacing motor mounts is one of my favorite fixes 🙂 My mounts were completely blown on my 1987 300D (diesel) which has a similar setup to the R129. That was a night and day difference - the car stopped shaking at idle 🤣 This one (SL320) was more when accelerating. I think you'll be in great shape and it's not too scary! Let us know how it goes

@bsclifton I was able to do the right side without too many issues. The left side had to buy the dog bone offset wrench which I'm waiting to arrive. In the same process I did shifter bushings after buying the special tool, worth the money. The journey continues 😅

@@AndyTranfl very cool! Thanks for the update 🙂 Having the right tool makes ALL the difference.

The two components I replaced were the vacuum box (basically the vacuum pod) for the stop lever itself and the vacuum connection that goes to the ignition. There are two brown vacuum lines running from the ignition. One goes to the vacuum box and other goes to brake booster. You can see the proper behavior for the stop lever at 7:03. With car on, it should be in UP position. When car turns off, it should move down to DOWN position. When turning key in ignition to position 2, it should go into UP position. The vacuum hose itself is on top of the vacuum box. In my clips, there's a long rubber hose connected to the brown vacuum hose which goes to the white colored vacuum box. Hope this helps!

You're very welcome! Glad you found it useful 😃

Hi @shaazy - I did not install the bushings actually. In a prior video, you can see me completely fail to install 😂 I took the parts to Mercedes-Benz of Chandler and they helped me out. There is a correct orientation, you're right. The bushings have lines on them. I edited the video description to include a link to photos you can use to compare! Let me know if this helps 🙂

I replied to your other comment - but please see the links to photos in the video description for ua-cam.com/video/6wmisf0mCzo/v-deo.html

I found all the SL600 wood trims at the junkyard and then I had restoredinusa.com do the refinishing. That was $875 USD and it turned out perfect 🙂 The bird's eye maple rolling box wood is not shown - but I had that too (from the SL600). The pull handle broke on that unfortunately, so I swapped it out for the vinyl one.

Hi @SmanEDITS - these are called Eccentric bolts and the part number for one bolt (includes hardware) is 201-330-00-18. Should be around $10 USD at the dealer for the Genuine MB branded part.

Thanks for watching! And yeah - it definitely takes some dedication! 🤣 In this case, it was a GREAT "while you're in there" since my dash was horrible shape. When it's all working, it is cool seeing the pods actuate. Many of the pods in W126 are accessible without pulling the dash; I wish it was the same with W124.

1993 should have been the 300SL which was the M103 engine. If that is what you have, the part number for distributor cap would be 103-158-00-02. 300SL-24 and SL320 models had the M104 which uses HFM (uses mass air flow sensor). The M103 is using CIS-E (Bosch Jetronic). You can visually tell if you have CIS-E/Jetronic because you'll have hard fuel lines going to the injectors and a distributor cap. HFM uses intake manifold and ignition coils.

I'm not exactly sure what you mean? The red connector shown in the video connects to the airbag. The back of the steering wheel has the metal contacts for clock spring - when the steering wheel is put in place, this makes electrical contact. 1994 and 1995 had a different type of connector. Maybe this is what you have?

No - unfortunately they're different

Thank you! Let me know what you run into. For the other locks, you might get lucky and with the key in and turned, the cylinder might come out of the lock assembly. Usually, you'd have to free the end of the cylinder. But then replacement of the pieces should be straight-forward at that point. I should have done a video - but I replaced my trunk lock with a brand new one and rekeyed it. It was a fun process! Just a heads up that some of the external locks have a two piece tumbler (two halves).

Hi there! Yes - check this webpage: meinbenz.de/farben/farbcodes.htm My car is 040 black, so my lower trim is colored "7700 altograu". I got several cans of this made at a local automotive paint shop called "Space Age" in Mesa, Arizona. You can find the similar code for your car's color and then use some red Scotchbrite to scuff up the bumper before repainting 🙂

For any W126, yes. It was option code 540 "ROLLER BLIND, ELECTRIC, FOR REAR WINDOW". The black bar is different for coupe / sedan. Although it's stock, this mechanism is sketchy. I have seen examples on forums where a person put in the work and retrofit much nicer mechanisms - like the one from the W204 C class. That is a better unit for sure. This one looks bad because of the bar across the back, it's slow, and the plastic cord will eventually break. The package tray is different which includes a different base for the 3rd brake light. It comes up on eBay sometimes

@@bsclifton what about the 3rd brake light? Wouldn't that be in the way of the black box of motor I assume?

@@alc11803 the motor is under the package tray. It's fairly small - the motor pushes the plastic cord through the black bar which physically raises the shade. The shade itself is wound up and has tension - it pulls the shade down when the cord is moved down.

This is great advice to get a proper flush! Thanks 🙂

No. But I'm curious - that shouldn't make a difference, right?

@@bsclifton I heard that it is better to warm up the engine. Apparently, it's easier to remove them, and there is less chance of them breaking. So I did it that way yesterday on my W124 250D no problem.

​@@tone45. that definitely makes sense! They can be get seized up - and heating the engine up would effectively be the same as hitting it with a torch for a bit. Great idea! 🙂

Good to be back! I have a new one coming soon too for the X166 GL/GLS

That's the official W124 Chassis & Body workshop manuals. There are two of them for w124. You can find on eBay or use the electronic version in WIS (or there are CDs with the PDFs too)

ouch - that's unfortunate. Sometimes, you can get lucky and use a pair of pliers to force your key to turn. If you can eventually turn it to position 1, you definitely should get a new cylinder! You might need to cut it open

My friend got stuck and had to get “medieval” on this sucker to remove, it’s ridiculously hardcore steel

Good question - I'll keep that in mind. I did pull a great condition 1992 steering wheel for w124 from junkyard. Basically, I would replace the "squib". This is the contact ring which has the SRS wire connector. It's one piece and yours may have gone bad over time. The part number should be in the video- it's easy to replace

You're very welcome! I would make more videos for this car, but it's pretty reliable 😂 There have been a few small things I didn't bother making a video for which I probably should have - replacing the 3rd row seat motor, replacing the trunk latch actuator, replacing the rear seat vents (had some broken blades) and a few others. Only a small handful of issues though

@@bsclifton the first two would be very useful to many I'm sure. I opened the driver door panel because the soft close wasn't working there. I was going to replace the expensive part but though why not try again once I disconnected the door moduleand It worked! I was happier than a kid getting his first bike. That's a piece of info I'd like to spread. Everyone changes the actuator when it happens. I got the springs done today, thanks again, man.

@@abadran8174 oh wow - so did you just disconnect the module and then reconnect it? (and then it worked)?

@@bsclifton 8moths ago, still working without issue. I think because of the gl issues with disconnecting batteries, every time or almost every time someone changes the door actuator for soft close issue it's this. Because you won't be removing the door panel just to unplug replug.

Totally agree! 😍

Not that I remember- I did pull the fuse so that the compressor wouldn't run. I'm sure the fronts did go down a bit

I am very happy to be that simple guy, showing what I learn along the way 🙂👍 Thanks for watching 😀

Hi good question - I am using the official MBUSA shop manuals. There are digital versions available but I bought the physical ones from eBay. I have the chassis manual 1 & 2, the AC manual, the 602/603 engine manual, and a few more (including ETM - electronic technical manual)

You're welcome! Let me know if you give it a go. What model car do you have?

@@bsclifton 1995 E320 with the M104, so idk how the clearance will be but, I'm hoping the pieces come out as smoothly as yours.

@@09JSanchez you got this! 😀Worst case scenario, the motor mount is VERY easy to access. It's 17mm and the heat shield comes off with the bolt. With that undone, you can put some plywood under the oil pan and jack the engine up slightly to give yourself more clearance to remove idler arm bushing bolt 🙂 If you need a demo w/ motor mount, I show that in the video I did motor mount replacement for my 1994 SL320 (also M104).

Hi and thanks! 🙂 With the broken parts, it was a slow leak - usually I'd notice it in the morning time. It would rise back up when the car is on though, so still drivable. Definitely it was taking a while (a few hours) to lower. Now that's replaced, it will still lower... but over the period of a few days (ex: come home after a week long trip; dropped a few inches). But it doesn't get as low as it was getting when the parts were bad.

​@@bscliftonthx.. Hmmm. I think I may also replace the solenoid valve block as my car stays up then only after a few days it goes down. Both wheels exactly same lowering height. These things are so weird at times drives me nuts... Thx again

I would say yes. In my case, the seal blew out completely and the reservoir emptied into the brake booster. In a prior video, you can see the damage it did (and all the brake fluid in the booster!)

By the way your front strut is supposed to have that dent. Its for tire clearance .they all have it. My old struts had it as well as new ones. If you change them be sure to use new foam bump stops and boots. Struts will last longer. I bought the k.y.b for mine and ride is nice. Good luck.

After having a few cars with AIRMATIC, I'm really happy with it. It's a fairly easy system and overall not too hard to work with. I replaced the valve block and compressor over the weekend and it was a piece of cake. Super comfortable ride - way better than conventional springs IMO.

They sure do make the assembly with the key! Try ordering the part number in person at the dealer. The key works great in all the doors, the trunk. Same as the original key, just new ignition lock assembly 🙂

Appreciate your video, but as a w124 owner ( ive had 6 currently have a e300 1995 w 309k miles) i dont put any key ring hanging on that ignition. That is asking for trouble i have key on a detachable keyring w house keys..it’s an easy way to not stress deform ignition as you bounce on down the road …just my .02 . When i pulled it out the ignition came out and collar was obv loosened came out after. Also i woukd detach negative battery cable before doing this and avoid possible making a spark. My key was stamped w 124 prefix fron from mercedes so all keys work.,

Gracias! Y gracias por mostrarme eso video; es muy suave. Bienvenidos a mi channel 🙂

Hi! Glad you like it 🙂 The parts are Lemforder brand and I got them from FCP Euro online. The original Mercedes-Benz part is no longer available ☹

Thank you for your reply. I will put one on my pretty soon and hopefully go as smoothly as you.

One more question: How many hours did it take you to do it on one side? 🔩🔧🧰

@@lekubaka great question! On one side, it took me roughly 5 hours, start to finish. Getting car on jack stands, removing the strut (shock), compressing/removing spring, then taking out the control arm. It could definitely be done faster - it was my first time doing this job, I was taking my time with music on and recording videos as I went. Probably 30 minutes or so was spent looking for tools I misplaced 😂 Second side went a little faster- maybe 3 hours (car was already jacked up). As shown in the video, I overtorqued the sway bar bushing and had to drill out a hole, find a bolt/nut, which ate up some time.

Love what you are doing! I'm going to master my w124 soon. Thank you for sharing.@@bsclifton

It's a great tool! I had a generic clone of this tool from eBay (like $50) and didn't feel safe using it. Threw that in the trash (don't want someone else getting hurt!) and got this one. The compressors are branded "Miller" (name used for Daimler Chrysler)- but that is also made by Klann Tools (who made tools for MB). The company now is called Gedore Tools. Felt very safe using it 😁 Thanks for the tip on the rotor, BTW!

Brian, the spring compressor you got there. Are they expensive? Can you share the link to the website?

@@lekubaka Good question - the tool I have is the one by Klann Tools. I got the set (compressors, plates) for $800 USD used. There are clones of this on eBay if you search "w124 spring compressor". I did not feel safe using those. But they are much more affordable. Because I may use this tool somewhat often, the investment is not so bad for me.

Thank you! 🙂 And because of your comment, I just went and got a great set of safety glasses by Milwaukee tools

Lesson learned on my side - definitely easy to do the whole assembly 🙂 Should be able to wrap up this weekend. How has the ride/handling been after doing it?

@@bsclifton Much much better - as you are getting new ball joints and control arms - get an alignment as well or get it checked to be safe.

@@cjlomax2156 will do! Actually, before that I'll need to replace the drag link, both tie rods, the idler arm bushing, and then the steering damper. THEN it's ready 🙂 Those should be a lot quicker though. I'll do my best to get those on video and maybe Mercedes-Benz of Chandler might even let me show off an alignment. The dealer has great equipment for doing it and it's a super fair price

The best case scenario would be to get a steering wheel from a 92 or 93 W124 - both the inside insert and the clock spring portion. You can then put that into newer steering wheels and it'll work great! In this video, I tried to reuse the inside of the newer 94 wheel. It did work- but it's a sloppy way to do it. Later, I got the inside structure from a 93 300E and switched it out

Well i have a 94 with a clock spring but it bolts on the steering shaft differently. Doesn’t seem like it will work.

@@cph3459 What type of 1994 was the wheel from originally? And what type of car are you putting it into? The one in my video is from a 1994 S500. 94 and above use a ribbon (cable with like 5 wires)