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There are two coolant systems. The one for the electric vehicle side is near the brake fluid reservoir. I would check the operation of the pump for the EV system. If the coolant level is ok, it may just be the electric pump went out

I've never thought about it, but it should!

I found mine locally used. I think MTD still makes a generic one as most lawn mowers are made by MTD But the used market cost will vary

What size tractor do you have? I may have a blower for you

Mine is electric so it doesn't have a PTO cable. The induction manual in the video description box shows how to connect a PTO cable

Yes, I have been able to do injectors. It's pretty good, but might not cover everything. I've been able to reset transmissions, but not program valve bodies on trucks like 150s

Yearly $895

That's awesome! Glad there's other people out there experimenting with this. Thanks for watching!

It never is! Thanks for watching!

Not this model. They do have versions that come with J-Boxes and you can use those with manufacturer subscriptions to program modules.

Yes they are. Replacing the starter with a 6.4 starter helps with that also!

I'm doing a full restoration

I would suggest you stop cranking on it, the HV battery only has so much energy in it and if it dies you can't just recharge it with a battery charger. That's kind of a generic code that requires more diagnosis to determine why the engine isn't running, ie fuel pressure test, spark test, MAF sensor etc. I won't be able to help much more than that. Good luck though. I'm sorry you're dealing with that

@@fordtechchrisdo you happen to know if there is anything else that disables fueling? FORScan shows FUEL_CUTOFF-INP as Enabled in the BECM. I have spark, fuel pressure seems good but injectors don’t open. They are just dribbling while cranking. If I bypass the pcm and energize each injector they open and close as expected. Is there something I need to do to re enable the engine/fuel similar to an inertia switch?

@@ChadMees I'm not sure off the top of my head. But it definitely seems like you have no fuel pressure if the injectors are dribbling. Of there is an inertia reset, it should outline the procedure in the owners manual. I think that would be controlled by the RCM. Most likely you have a bad fuel pump driver module. You can test it by unplugging and jumping pin 1 to pin 5 and pin 4 to pin 8. This applies power directly to the fuel pump. Only replace them with Ford parts. You should be able to self test the fuel pump control module as well.

@@fordtechchris if I energize each injector it sprays and I have run the self test where I can hear the fuel pump cycle. I can also control It and leave it in the run position from FORScan. This makes me believe the supply and mechanics are all good but the pcm is disabling the injectors. This is a hard one to diagnose and my next step is to verify all pcm and fuel related fuses. It looks like on the cmax there is a dedicated fuse for injectors but on my MkZ the fuse is shared with the FPDM

@@ChadMees gotcha. I'm sorry I can't help much more without being there. Unfortunately trying to remote diagnose stuff never works very well. I feel like you're on the right path that it's being disabled in the software. Just need to identify what's causing the PCM to shut down fueling.

I believe the MS908 comes with a J Box for programming modules. But the J Box gets used with other software outside of the Autel suite. The Autel software cannot do PCM updates. I already have a Ford VCM II so the MK908 Bluetooth adapter was sufficient. I haven't tried using the Autel with the VCM yet, but I'm curious if it would work

This can program airbags and diagnosi abs stability system ?

Good to know! It's hard to nail down small details like that when putting the Jeep back together to know what should and shouldn't be present. The brackets look original. Perhaps it's a ACM II running change like moving to the deep mud exhaust? Or the lights could be mismatched to the Jeep?

Sounds like just the back lights, but I'm not an expert

This seemed easier to me than pulling the fenders, but next time I'm gonna try it!! Thank you!

Never mind! It’s for coolant temp. Got a basket case that someone took apart and left. Trying to piece it all together. No idea what goes where lol

Sorry I didn't get back to you sooner. Also note there is a special temp probe adapter that must be screwed in the head first. Good luck! I hope my videos helped

The entire factory grid? Once the repair is on you'd have to scrape it off. I assume you can do that with the factory grid also? Seems messy though

Oh for sure! It was a customers truck and I had just gotten to it in this video. I'm big on cleaning corrosion and applying some kind of protective neutralizer for all of my customers! Thanks for watching and commenting!

No. Ford dealerships have to request a special charger from Dearborn to recover hybrid battery packs. But in 20 years of working with Ford Hybrids I've only ever seen 3 batteries dead and had to be replaced, recharging wasn't an option. Just make sure to run the vehicle every now and then if it's going to sit.

About 2-4 hours. Everything takes longer though when you're recording to share with UA-cam.

I did not have issues driving daily in Sacramento and that's much hotter than Florida. I just like to leave the windows cracked when possible to keep the interior cool. Should make a great Uber car though, they get the best mileage in town and have plenty of room for passengers.

Good question, my instinct tells me it won't. But my subscription hasn't expired yet and I intend to renew to keep getting updates.

Yes, because the backup systems on modem cars only work if you know how to use them! Thanks for watching!

I've never needed it on the 6.0 Powerstroke and I've been replacing glow plugs in those for 20 years. But it's a necessity on the 6.6 Duramax, so I do know it won't hurt to use it.

Reason being the glow plugs live in engine oil on the Ford where the Duramax they are external and suscectable to rust and other environmental contaminants

@@fordtechchris That makes sense. Thanks for the reply. Also... do you feel it's necessary to pull the valve cover to prevent any trash getting into the oil pan through the drain back holes. If so, that takes the process to a whole new level of difficulty. And while I'm talking trash, is there any risk of gunk going into the motor through the Glow Plug holes?

@@Bullitt5094 no, it's not necessary to pull the valve covers. You can get an air nozzle and blow out the trash before you pull the harness. And even flush it with brake cleaner if you want. Some guys pull the valve covers just to pry the harness out from inside if they're super stuck. But honestly you have the same risk of dropping dirt in from the top edge of the valve cover gasket as the glow plug harness. Take your time and be clean and use silicone spray or PB blaster and the harness will come out easy with my technique in the video. Good luck👍🏻

@@Bullitt5094 and you'll only get a little dribble of motor oil going in to the cylinder through the glow plug hole. So expect to make a little smoke on startup after service. No big deal though.

I have one of the deep mud brackets mounted by the rear axle. Unfortunately I ordered the side exhaust a long time ago and had to use it due to the budget. But that explains why the brackets may have been absent on the body. Thank you for pointing this out!

There are several tell-tale signs on the frame, that it had the Deep Mud Exhaust system per factory. The holes in the frame for the hanger brackets is a pretty sure sign. If the transmission crossmember is original to the jeep, it will have a bent horisontal tab on top of the pedal return spring bracket as another sign of Deep Mud Exhaust. Crossmember could have been changed though…

@@storetapir I'll have to crawl under there and see if it has that!

My guess is it will, but I haven't tried it on those yet

I only know of their commercial truck software, I'm not familiar with heavy equipment repair. Sorry

Ha ha, definitely! But heck for $50 bucks and an afternoon.... I'm a tinkerer so it's enjoyable to me.

@@fordtechchris yeah I’m pretty envious of those good with their hands.. trades are valuable. Might be worth a try..

You can monitor cylinder misfires and I've found it plenty effective to simulate power balance, but I also have an IDS that I use for most Ford's.

@@fordtechchris so no power balance graphing ability?

@@SixFive8 I haven't tried, but based on what I've seen with other manufacturers, not Ford's .... It offers the misfire pids that you can overlap the graphs and see which cylinder it identified as misfiring. I think it's a fairly effective tool when configured that way. Use it all the time on everything but Ford's

No, I won't be there. Had a lot of life changes that have kind of thrown me off a bit. Hopefully I'll be able to think about it again in the coming years. Thank you

@@fordtechchris Sorry to hear that! If you need anything just let me know. Happy to help in any way I can. It's hard to go through things but know you've got a whole community that has your back. One of my favorite quotes is from Winston Churchill-"Success is not final. Failure is not fatal- It is the courage to continue that counts". Never give up bud and know that you have a whole community of fellow Aviation people that support you! Let me know if there's anything I can do for sure. More than happy to help!

@@markberman8958 I appreciate that! I'm looking forward to being out there again in the next year or so, so we'll have to meet up then!

@@fordtechchris You bet bud we'll getcha up flying for sure and out fishing! Keep in touch on it and we'll make it happen!

Honestly as a Ford technician for 20 years, you're probably going to just need to replace the glass. This kit is only intended to fix minor scratches. That's such a bummer! Good luck.