Відео

@@dn0682 I’ve used many meteor pistons with excellent results. This kit cost considerably less than 1/2 (almost 1/3 the price) of a Husqvarna oem kit. The ports are excellent and with some flow work and piston mods it will outproduce the $30 Chinesium 76.5cc chrome “big bore” cylinder that came with the saw even tho we are giving up 6cc displacement (71cc vs 77cc). I have it installed and when weather breaks I will make a few cuts in the same chunk and we see the difference! I’m just not comfortable using the cheap Chinesium chrome plated $30 top end that came with the saw - might last awhile or might go boom 💥 tomorrow especially when it’s putting out considerably more torque/hp. I’d say the kits are a good value vs oem

@@jonathanfierberg3807 they came with the “free” saw 🤣

@ he owns the cat factory 🏭

@@steppoffaith8426 haha 🤣

@@steppoffaith8426 better start binge watching some Ironhorse videos then 🤣😉

@fabzacres-blackcat I better do something for sure!! Be hard to beat your variable exhaust trimming lol 😂😊😃🪘😜😀😁🤣

@@steppoffaith8426 already been done elsewhere and several patents exist … patents.justia.com/patents-by-us-classification/123/65PE?page=3

@@fabzacres-blackcat not an a piston ported engine at all. Only way to change compression is transfer height and or exhaust roof as far as something that is variable and highly debated already.

@@RichFife haha suck eggs 🥚 pal 🤣 tape don’t lie … IF I were you I wouldn’t even show face in MY yard with THAT meager performance - You’ll simply be laughed right off the landing! You had better get a MINIMUM 45-50% increase in cut speed IF you want even a snowballs chance in hell! And Yes, I can do better , a lot faster cut cut. Sayonara Fife - if hot air cut wood you’d be the king of the forest ! 🤣😝😂😀😃🐍💯🥩

Nice....😊

@fabzacres-blackcat answer the questions. 🤣 🤣 🤣 I gotta hear your answers. Ahahaha I should make a video like yours... 🤣 a bit of a stretch but... I love it man!!! 🤣💀🤣💀

@ You see the video Fife - It’s quite obvious you talk a lot of bs and fail to deliver … another ope “paper - a-hole ! 🤣😂😃😎😝😀🐍🥩😉🐱

@@fabzacres-blackcat and your answers are????? 🤣

Yeah, it’s coming along … no I haven’t worked on the saws you mentioned tho I wouldn’t have an issue if I had a ipl for them … they are not very plentiful this neck o the woods. Stihl , Husqvarna dominate here

@@RichFife Don’t worry about it Fife … I’ve got Joe Fixit on da job 🤣

@fabzacres-blackcat sounds like you wanted someone else to do this... lol.

@@tfloutdoors327 there’s lotta things you can do and they all add up fo sure. I’m think I’m going to ditch this $29.99 aftermarket 76.5cc cylinder and piston and go with an oem 372xp top end , already have a 371piston in hand. Even tho I’m giving up almost 6cc the oem cylinder is superior and will make more power

@ OE is the best way to do it imo, there won’t be as much clean up work to be done, that’s for sure.

@@tfloutdoors327 the piston that comes with the big bore has very thin skirts - me no likey

@HayChaffandSawdust1 I believe there's definitely potential for more power... but, at what expense? Mechanical actuation? Electrical acuation... what's the added weight? 2stroke stuffing played around with "similar" exhaust stuff but then again, they weren't little chainsaws... someone could make a 4 stroke chainsaw... but, I betcha that sucker would weigh more than most would want to carry around.

@@HayChaffandSawdust1 yessir! I’m still mulling it over in my cranium exactly how to do it “live action”but the CONCEPT itself should work. I was just going to use it with the standard piston port in the exhaust ONLY. A sliding Guillotine-that can alter the exhaust timing in real time / live action depending on load. Right now we are “limited” to X exhaust height and everything is a compromise from there. This here apparatus won’t give more peak power necessarily, that’ll be set by the exhaust height. What is will do is to “thicken” your low-mid range by “foolin” the engine into making more torque when the guillotine is down thus giving a longer effective power stroke. It’s no problem to rig up with a servo motor and an external power source. To get it to run OFF the engine , live action , rpm is the head scratcher 😉

@fabzacres-blackcat the timing, speed, and finding the components to meet such requirements is a bit hefty task. It's probably impractical... but, that's what people said about my 94cc 460. 🤷‍♂️ lol. I don't care about excessive chain speeds, I do care about being able to lean on a saw and let it eat... hobs of torque with good chain speed is what I'm after.

@@RichFife Oh, I agree Rich! I build WAAAY more stuff in my head than I build on the bench... just like my pie-in-the-sky wish of fitting reeds in a saw's already-there transfers. There's be so many losses (monetary and flow) associated with it!!! I don't remember which Two Stroke Stuffing episode that it was that he was messing with variable exhaust; I probably missed it; last I knew, he was using a rotary valve.

@ Fabz, I reckon there's a jillion ways to take the pelt off the puddy, but my mind went straight to a vacuum servo (like vacuum advance); of course, that would add more case volume and it may not like the ever-changing pressures in the crank case... an in-line accumulator could smooth that out and lower the gain in case volume... never seen a chainsaw with a side car though. 😉 I sure do like a good thought/problem upon which to work though!!... keeps the ol grey matter from coagulating!!

I'm 8-1/2 minutes in and I'm waiting for Fabz to get his point across. Fabz, put the stick down and leave that horse alone... spit it out and put that Dr Pepper away. We get it, after the upper ring passes the exhaust roof, it "seals" and it builds pressure. 😂 Dynamic compression Static Compression Now let's talk about exhaust roof degrees vs compression results And then Let's talk about Blowdown and what you can achieve with little or a lot of blowdown. 😉 I like the generic numbers at the end... by using that formula... how long should the bearings last if my saw is at 205# of compression. Just food for thought, you're missing huuuuge fudge factors. But, I'm no engineering wiz... I'm just a guy from the sticks. Lol. Ring life = Years. IF operators take care of their saws... Bearing Life = have yet to see statistics or data on compression vs bearing failures in chainsaws. As a matter of fact, I'd say most bearing failures are more likely to fail due to poor oil/gas, failed crank seals, poor saw/chain maintenance... we already know about defective bearings and/or poorly engineered bearings... Hard to Pull = That's why the manufacturers install decompression valves. Be smarter than ignorance and use whay they give you. An old man isn't going to want a ported saw... the typical home owner wouldn't have a need for a ported saw... the occasional tree feller/firewood guy might, loggers like fast powerful saws that cut through the wood faster than oem... and they're ok will having the saw gone through every 3 to 4 to 5 years... that's whay they want, that's what they like and they don't mind paying porters for performance gains. More heat: I agree with this to a degree 😉 getting the heat out is big, mufflers are a huge factor with keeping heat, airflow across the fins is huge... thay goes back to the operator and how they maintenance their equipment... now, with an excessive amount of compression you'll have way more heat saturation and you will get tuning issues... I Typically run my saws between 185 - 205psi and I have yet to see anything remotely close to what you're saying... You also said the Stihl 044s were a great saw and they were around 180psi... they last years and years... shit, there are guys who still run their 044s over this way... and if what you say is true... then this wouldn't be the case... some of the 371s came from the factory woth higher compression... some are still running today... just these two saws, popular ones at that debunk most of what you say. You have some truth in whay you say but you inject a lot of your own bs into it. 🤷‍♂️ Please break down how you got your 4-7% gains after porting and machining... I'm genuinely interested on how you came to that % range in gain.

I do like the fact that that you're researching and trying to prove your stance/points... even if it's not to learn but to try and prove others wrong... hey, to each their own... if that puts wind in your sails... keep blowing and you'll find your destination... which is better than most.

@@RichFifeI’m only interested in knowledge - not proving anyone wrong (tho that is a side effect of said knowledge) … You asked , and I delivered the formula and YOU can do all the necessary calculations at your leisure. If you honestly STILL believe (even after being shown the formula) that taking a stock saw 150psi saw and jacking it up to 210psi is going to have NO EFFECT on bearing life (and all the other associated issues I showed in this video) then I say you are a fool! You can make the argument that a coin 🪙 dropped from 6ft will never hit the ground for first it must fall half the distance (rinse/repeat) however everyone knows this is a bullshit argument. You want to build hi comp machined saws then have at it , no one is stopping you - but You need to stop with the nonsense that they ALL HAVE to be built THAT way - it’s complete nonsense! There is no “free lunch” Mr. Fife , and anytime you put additional stress on components those components WILL FALL sooner than later! Simple physics than cannot be argued! Hey whatever, do YOUR WAY ! I DONT CARE 😂

@fabzacres-blackcat 🥱 🥱 🥱 😴 😴 😴 Do you honestly think that formula is accurate? C'mon man... like said before... fudge factors aren't included. Even in a perfect world/controlled environment, you won't get that formula to consistently repeat... Like I also said, some of the best saws ever made had higher compression, and they lasted years. Some are still running today, which is proof that not all things are set in stone... but, eat your choclate pudding and drink your Dr pecker. You state the obvious and you try to convince others that we disagree with the obvious... when in reality there is a spectrum and we don't only focus on the the far ends of the spectrum, we take into consideration all of the variables that fall between the two opposing sides. I'll ask again, if that formula is 100% accurate how do you have saws running 20+ years later? Some still on the job sites others have been reduced to firewood saws... c'mon man, I gave you an easy escape. Take the bait. Lmao

@ He’s a Fifer through and through! Never gives credit when credit is due ! 🤣😂🤣😉😎🐍😃💯👍

Well, it's a good thing the camera doesn't lie! 😂👍

@fabzacres-blackcat ahahahaha

@@Houseworksaws I agree , however imho the jug/slug most likely is holding this saw back - I betcha and oem 372xp jug and slug would give superior performance even tho it’s giving up a few ccs. It seems cutting the case .015 was a worthwhile venture vs taking it off the cylinder base. I’d rather try these “experiments” with a cheep saw 😉

​@fabzacres-blackcat where's the video of the case being machine... that'd make for good content. Not too many people openly shoeing case mods/machining.

@@RichFifeI think the best way to do it is to disassemble the saw and remove the crank then reassemble it , put in a vise, indicate and then use a fly-cutter to cut ALL in one fell swoop . We just did it on a Bridgeport with an end mill with the crank to one side and then the other. Easy peasy - I’d say this method is superior vs taking it off the bottom of the cylinder. Unfortunately SOME things must stay within the confines of the shop walls 🤣

@fabzacres-blackcat to each their own. Machining the base of the cylinder is probably 4 to 5x faster than setting up for the case, dialing it in, and doing stop and go cutting. If the case is already apart, and someone was feeling ambitious, more power to them... I can chuck up my mandrel and have it dialed in under 1 min. A 3 to 4 minutes later the cylinder base is done, out of the machine and on the saw... (unless I'm taking .100 from the base)... some 372s I take that much from... maybe a smidgen more. 🤷‍♂️

@@RichFife it’s not a matter of what is easier … Heck you can just use a copper gasket and dispense with the machining of the cylinder base all together! You gotta OUTTHINK these guys 🤣😉😎

@@jamiedalluge9472 I’m giving folk the straight - goods based on my experiences

@@Ketis1985 I’m gonna run the snot outta this saw - either it passes muster or not 😉

@@fabzacres-blackcat motomix or pump gas at 50:1 😉😇😏 im really curious how it does in real work 🙂

@@Ketis1985🤷can you be more specific ?

@@fabzacres-blackcat the fuel question was mainly a joke but im still curious how that saw lasts when you put it into work like lots of firewood cutting or tree work.

@@Ketis1985 time will tell

@@thedirtbikingyeti1353 Thanks! It’s tuned way rich on the H jet. Weather is supposed to be near 30 tomorrow so I’ll tune it to around 12,500 , sharpen the chain/ adjust the rakers and make a few cuts - should cut a fuzz bit quicker. It DOES have torque galore! I’m really pulling up on the pistol grip and she’s just eating away - the rowdy cobra 🐍 pipe is really helping the mid range here!

@@jamiedalluge9472 no … I still need to tune the h jet for max rpm so she’ll pick up a fuzz more speed in the cut

@@daninuesca3801 thanks ! She picked up a bit more torque / speed in the cut fo sure 👍 - I gotta run it against the Bone Stock , off dealer shelf 500i and shoot a video … I think it’ll be right there with or maybe a fuzz quicker. Of course I modify the 500i the same way it’ll walk this 372xp 76.5cc no problem 😉

@@larrywarner9314 I said to could make it run with a STOCK 572xp , mission accomplished- went back in and cut the cases .015, squish band cleanup and used a copper gasket to lower squish to .028 all on the channel - She will run with a STOCK 500i no problem-0. Of course if the 500i is modded then it will walk away.

@@ZoidbergMustache it IS 76.5 cc so with enuff oem parts it’s not unheard of. Of course if I did the same work to the 572xp or especially 500i they wood pull away - talkin BONE STOCK off the dealer shelf here. The saw has got some good torque fo sure - lotta guys like to be able to pull up on the pistol grip / blow thru knots without the chain stallling and I’ve succeeded in this regard

I picked up around 8% over the previous iteration which is satisfactory. The only issue is the oiler isn’t pumping enuff oil for my liking. I’ll disassemble it and see what’s what. Maybe on oem pump will be needed to keep up now that it’s cutting considerably quicker 🤷

@@Ketis1985 .007 lower isn’t going to do that much to raise compression , I’m guessing 5-10 psi at best - the MSV (maximum squish velocity) should be improved tho and result in (along with a bit of flow / piston work and removal of all the “creme” that was in the transfers) a slightly more powerful saw. If she pulls a stock 500i I’ll call it a day , if not I’ll go back in and do some more work. It’ll be so much easier now to dis/re assemble without having to deal with all that damn “creme” that was slathered all over from the factory! What a royal pita to remove it all !

@@fabzacres-blackcat yeah its not gonna be huge jump. Im just wondering how much it would be on gauge since some of them aftermarket cylinders dont make alot even with tightened up squish. I quess it comes down to exhaust height, combustion chamber size and overall quality of the parts which can be crapshoot when it comes to aftermarket. Im not high compression kind of guy but i like tightened up squish to get more bang for the buck from inproved MSV and getting more of the fuel in to the chamber from squish band area rather than wasting it😊 i dont like living with high compression saw because its hard on parts and saws are harder to start with it.

@@Ketis1985 I’m not a huge fan of high compression saws either , I think a lil bit helps things tho. For a good worksaw 150-165 psi on the gage seems to be the “sweet spot” for the way I build saw. I DID use a poplar mandrel with emery cloth to “even up” the squish band and remove any imperfections/uneveness - it came out nice and shiny vs the “rough” stock cylinder. Might have been off a few thou from the factory - now I know it’s perpendicular and true! Just make sure to wash everything with hot soapy water and clean a few times to make sure no residual “grit” remains. I use toilet paper with a few drops of STIHL ultra to clean it thoroughly. As far as the gage goes you’re just measuring static compression anyway and the 50rpm ya get when pulling it over isn’t necessary what you’re going to get when the saw is running in the wood at 10000rpm 🤣! These guys running 230psi can have THAT , not interested. You’re decreasing bearing life considerably, adding excessive heat, making the saw harder to tune , pull over etc… As far as I’m concerned some of these guys are overporting / over machining the saws. I figure a 20-30% gain in the timber is good for a worksaw. Trying to make a 5.4hp saw into a 9hp saw is a fools errand imho as the saw simply isn’t going to last and you’ve built a toy/Cookie Monster 👹… If you need THAT much more power then start with a larger displacement saw!

@@RichFife That’s Kevin , he owns a local small engine repair shop / STIHL dealership about 2 miles from me. He likey the torque on the 461 I did for him

@@RichFife My 461s stomp on ported 500i’s as built … easy peasy 10-15% more available but then it kinda goes away from a “work saw” into something else. I can take the basic worksaw build and swap carbs/fuel and whoop some fanny and then swap back to the worksaw carb in about 1/2 hour. Strong saw is a strong saw - I see no reason to go further with it but IF someone’s willing to pay I can do. Imho you can get “X” amount of reliable power that holds a tune, ain’t a pig on gas and don’t overheat and lasts. 95% of my customers just want a very torquey build that pulls hard and lays a lot of wood on the ground in short order. Slaying ported 500i’s is just a feather in the cap 🤣

@fabzacres-blackcat a good ported 500i that stays in the power range and doesn't 4 stroke... that's a MEAN 500i. Those chips will leave the thighs red and raw. 😆 🤣 ain't no way that 461 would touch a mean 500i. Hell, I run my exhaust on those @ 105* while some dance at 108*, but then again, I don't use the 500i piston, I use a 660 piston.

@@RichFife IF you look at the video I did at Kevin’s you’ll see a stock 500i with a bark box and a ported 500i with an Egan straight shot - cut on both sides of log and the 461 absolutely smoked the stock 500i by a wide margin and put the hurt on the ported 500i too! I’m not a huge fan of the 500i - uses way too much fuel for my liking - 462c is a far better choice running 20-25” bars

@@RichFife 🤷 just working on what I have - don’t see why it wouldn’t work ….

@fabzacres-blackcat I get it. I actually might have a couple 272 pistons kicking around.

@@RichFife I have many 272xp pistons on hand - lotta 266 to 272xp conversions - they come out strong for a 30+yr old saw !

@fabzacres-blackcat yep, and they'll run and beat a lot of these newer saws, too. All of these newer saws lack torque... probably the only exception is Husky pro saws... they seem to have maintained or gotten better... the stihl 661, I thought that was a pig. 400c, pig... 441, pig... 462, pig.

@@RichFife never messed with a 400c or a 661c - the 441c comes out very strong but there are some “tricks” you have to do to it as does the 462c. I think the 462c is the “dark horse” saw outta ALL of em IF you’re running 20-25” bars - eat the 400, 500i, 661c and the 572xp for breakfast 🍳, tho it is a chain stall special (in stock trim) when pulling up on the pistol grip. Hey we gonna see Frankenstein in the wood 🪵? Let’s make it happen ! 😉

@@alltherpmThis is by no means a “finished” build. I’m going to run it as is and note the improvements. I’m reasonably certain I can get it to run with a stock 500i as built. Remember I milled the cases here instead of taking it off the base of the cylinder and just cleaned up/ flowed the ports. If you change too many variables at once then how can you possibly determine what did what and to what degree? This cylinder is more like a dirtbike than not and I once built a KX 500 drag bike that rang out at around 75hp so I just might know what I’m doing here 🤣

@fabzacres-blackcat i guess if u like taking it apart to do this and that a bunch, but its all been done and proven already, good job on the 500, I had a KTM 250 built up im sure was in the lower 60'shp

@ it’s really no big deal to take of the cylinder and grind it down. I just want to see how the flo is increased. Who knows, it might even beat a stock 500i like this, in which case I’ll call it a day and go use it as intended. I can always get another cylinder and put the boots to it down the road tho I’m more into worksaw modifications that perform , get excellent mileage and last. IF I want to race thru cookies it’s more cost effective to run a different intake/carb and fuel rather than overporting the piss outta the cylinder 🤣

@fabzacres-blackcat ya me not worried about saw gas mileage, pennies on the dollar per tank, I believe any build will last, most people gots to show off, always wot, nothing will last like that, ive never had an engine failure by maintaining and not over spinning engines

@@alltherpm yah, your saw your nickel you build it however the hell u want ! 🤣

@@Ketis1985 permatex copper coat

Steve says he gave you that saw

@@jonathanfierberg3807 proof ?

@@fabzacres-blackcat just stirring the pot 😁happy new year

@ I initially thought I had received a lemon 🍋 however after watching his recent video my suspicion(s) were confirmed. The saws I’m getting from “MY” factory in China are being sent over in lots of 10 without the spark plug, clutch , coil and carburetor. I’m upgrading them and offering a 500i killa for just $800 - complete saw with Husqvarna 24” bar and chain, zipped and piped , broken-in and ready to cut wood! This performance saw will simply cut circles around “theirs” 🤣

Just another tool in the toolbox!

Nice..👍🤙🏽​@@fabzacres-blackcat

@@steppoffaith8426 I’m good on the mastermind builds , got a few that went thru me hands so I’ll just build me own and save the coin 🪙🤣- should run a stock 500i no problem 😉

@@fabzacres-blackcat stock 500i is blubbery mess with short bar like 20" but throw 8 pin with 28" bar and your seconds behind.

@ well , we shall see shortly. I’m waiting on parts for the 572xp 76.5cc saw - oiler gear ⚙️ sheared and clutch drum way outta spec so those will be replaced. Milled .015 off the case instead of the bottom of the cylinder and have a .005 gasket so I should be around .027 squish

@@fabzacres-blackcat just a muffler modded 500i will put cut ported 70cc saw

@@steppoffaith8426 too much compression vs a bump tells a story. In older saws ya could get away with more. These new 5 series with plastic cages you’ll blow the berries and wreck the engine … seen a few of em - not even last 150hrs and kaputski

@@fabzacres-blackcat lol I have like the 20th 572xp that came off the line and compression is at 180 squish is at 18 lol.

@ not from the factory it wasn’t

@@fabzacres-blackcat o no not at all. Factory squishi was .052 compression was 135..

@@fabzacres-blackcat just saying I still run it every day. My business makes more cuts in 1 day than most saw builders make in a month. And more cuts than the average UA-camr does in a year.

Yah, that’s what I’m hearing too

U ever see warhawk kits, single ring, nice looking cylinder, 23$ setup, and ports nice

@James.Chironomidae Not as familiar with this model so one step at a time. If you change too much from a to b it makes it more difficult to ascertain what did what or was it a blend or ???Milled cases .015 and am going to run it as shown and see. My first attempt was to get it to run with a stock 572xp and mission accomplished there. Next up stock 500i. I may or may not fall short - we shall see soon enough when the components arrive next week. If I come up shy it’ll be infinitely easier to pull the cylinder and continue work vs fighting over torqued fasteners and excessive “creme” in the cylinder , on the cylinder , in the transfers etc. They should simply manufacture the cylinders to run with a stock .020 gasket instead of this idiotic “no base gasket, paint brushed on sealant” method !