Відео

And with that Proxxon sadly lost its sheen.

That's great project--very nice! I have watched a few of your videos and subscribed recently and have really enjoyed them. Particularly the relaxing new-age style music. I'm off to search for level vials now!

I'm new to your channel--that was great! Real nice work.

Thank you Sir for your extensive testing and sharing the results with ua. It would be very interesting to understand how, to end of the day, the filling is impacting rigidity of the column?

Mooi project 👍😁 I never new how to make a lens like that , thanks for showing us on how to make one 👍

Really nice tight tolerances now, what a great upgrade. Cheers 👍💪✌

How did you mill the nut if you had your mill disassembled?

Excellent video. No need to further investigate, brass has the tendency to transfer to the mating surface, bronze does not.

Drawings for this project, please

Thanks for sharing. Will you ever upload somewhere a writeup of your calculations?

The use of brass for the X axis may have been a consideration given that the X axis generally sees more use. One thing l was surprised by was the X axis leadscrew is a 60° thread form rather than a 30° Trapezoidal thread form. I have a 9x20 knock off of the Emco and the leadscrew is a 5/8 Acme so a 16mm Trapeziodal is or was doable. Ideas for eliminating or reducing backlash to the minimum. 1) A split nut that can be adjusted to reduce backlash as much as possible. 2) A two piece nut with a floating adjustable nut half that is loaded via one or two Belleville Washers. This may or may not solve the problem. You would need to be careful of generating excessive wear on the lead screw and nuts. And take care that any cutting forces do not exceed the capacity of the system used to takeup the backlash. Not that a mill this size should generate a lot of cutting forces. 3) Or go all in and switch to ball screws. The shop l served my apprenticeship in had a Kearny and Treker S-15 Universal. That featured hydraulically loaded nuts on the leadscrews.

I don't know where people get the patience to struggle with cheap Chinese lathes and mills. But I really like your tool grinder.

Very nice work sir

I purchased a 1” thick granite cutting board for $20 and it is more accurate than a Chinese piece of crap granite surface plate at 5 times the cost of what I paid.

hydrochloric test was real clear! wierd that Proxxon would use brass instead of bronze...

Dobra robota :) 🦾🦾🦾

It seems quite evident to me that from your hardness tester results, there can be no mistaking that proxxon used two different materials. Not something you'd expect for the price they want for it now! I have their miniature table saw and the die grinder.

The master at work, nice video, thanks

Outstanding, thank you for sharing

De tafellintzaag is GEWELDIG. Hoewel ik al een bandzaag voor het snijden van metaal heb, moet ik misschien toch een van deze kleine bandzagen maken en deze op een andere bank in mijn winkel zetten, dichter bij mijn molen en draaibank.

I noticed you have increased the volume of your narration and the music compared to the machinery sounds. Thank you. I really enjoy your videos so thank you for sharing with us.

Michel, I meant to also ask, Do you find that mounting the machinist vice parallel to the bed allows for less headaches? I have a mini mill and until I saw this video, I had blinders on about doing so. Everything I do so far is small, yet I still put myself into a bind when dealing with stock that goes beyond the reach of the mill, not the vice. For some reason, I see parallel mount to be a better, less troublesome on mini mills which lack the depth movement. Thanks again for that one especially!

Congratulations, Michel!!! I am from Brazil, have some Proxxon machines (Lathe, Milling) and enjoy your videos. Basically I face the same problems with my Proxxon here. Your contribution is inpiring!! Thank you.

Prachtig hoe je dit weer oplost Michel !!!!!

At 22:50, what is happening with the side cutters? What are you putting in and cutting? At 22:56, what is happening with the small hex key/Allen wrench? Is that an Allen wrench? ... Thanks for taking the time to share this with us!

Well done as usual Michel. Proxxon may have used aluminium bronze which is hard enough for nuts but can still wear out over time.

The grey cells are coming up with some clever ways to get things done, good job!

Ever a pleasure, Michel!

Not saying that your choice of splitting the nut lengthwise won't work, but traditionally to deal with backlash you split the nut so that you can apply forces on opposing shoulders of the screw. Consider this if your solution ends up being unsatisfactory, I suspect you will have trouble keeping it adjusted.

Great video!! You seem to be very intelligent!! Maybe you can help me out. I would like to install the same setup you have on the compound tamper on my lathe. If you could please help me out I would really appreciate you! Thank you.

Bloody nice job on that sir! I like it a lot. I'm going to revisit my X axis nut on my 25 year old Warco WMT300 lathe/mill combination machine. It has a very weird trapezoidal 20 mm X 0.1" ( 10 tpi) thread. I made a new nut in brass (which was my big mistake ) but due to a chipped tooth on a change wheel, I mucked the first one up and left it for a few months to ponder how I could do the job without ruining a second one. I decided to make a tap first and used a piece of steel from a Range Rover anti roll bar as this is good steel, a bit hard to machine but I managed it. The second nut was brass as well, (big mistake) and I managed to make a usable nut with only about ten thou of backlash. I also cut my leadscrew to swap it end for end using the unworn tailstock portion to even out the wear in it I made joining sections at either end to put the leadscew back together in its proper orientation with the machined bearing and driving potions back in their proper places.mi also cut 30 mm off of the very end of the unworn part of the thread as a go gauge and the tailstock joining piece was made 30 mm longer to restore the length of the screw. This has worked ok but after two years of hard work I have a lot of golden sheen glitter on the leadscrew and around 25-30 thou of play again. I'm not sure if I have enough room to do the half nut idea as you have, but I'm going to see what I can do to replicate your idea, this time in bronze if I can find it. We have now no engineering suppliers locally as all the engineering firms seem to have disappeared here on the London/Essex border. We used to have a brilliant engineering supplier about three miles from me but they closed their doors more than ten years ago now. A great pity that as they had been in business since before the Second World War. I'm going to watch this carefully again making notes and screenshots to replicate your half nut idea, if you don't mind. Sorry to be long winded lol

Terrific upgrade Michel, Well done!!

Great workmanship once again.

Very impressive! I have the same machines, but couldn’t do that sort of accurate work on them.

nice cleaning up the leadscrew, thats nice thing for tapered tread. the bronze splitnut should not be cut a whole. better leave a few mm for easy adjust and extra stability, and keep wel oiled. thicker oil ore grease wil give you much longer use of it. it was bone dry.

I do like the idea of simply making things a bit smaller. What was that thread type 60 degree? It seems to me an Acme style tread would be the best option for such a task. This looked much different from my vantage point.

I like how methodical your approach is to every endeavor you take and that you make due with what you have on hand

It is interesting that proxon had not used an adjustable bronze split nut to compensate for backlash as it wears. Nice video as always

Nice video 👍😀 Was that 0,7 mm backlash ?... that will ruin a part if you are not careful 😢. A bronze split nut is a good way to solve a problem like . Offcoarse there are different solutions or materials you can use. But bronze is self lubricating. Specially if you use bearing bronze .

might be an idea to dril in an oilhole from the t nut slot in the tables surface down intoo the capture nut for the leadscrew to be able to drop a little oil in there once in a while using a siringe and a needle

elegant solution to the problem ! Ill keep it in mind when I get around to doing my mill, best regards, Steve

Just discovered your channel, subscribed! thanks for sharing!

What a great build and a great project for me coming winter 😀. What angles did you grind the parting blade ?...

Mr. Uphoff, excellence is always envied, and therefore criticized. Excellent work, excellent videos, the last concern is cost, when excellence is the goal. And congratulations, you have proven that. Thank You for sharing. The others can go to Harbor freight and buy garbage.

Superb little machine, very nicely done. 😊

Can you identify the music for me? It is wonderful. Thanks

very impressed subbed !

I have now received a great offer from a friendly UA-camr. He is willing to make drawings of my Tiny Toolgrinder! So, if all goes well, a video will be released soon with drawings and some detailed information about the construction.

I have now received a great offer from a friendly UA-camr. He is willing to make drawings of my Tiny Toolgrinder! So, if all goes well, a video will be released soon with drawings and some detailed information about the construction.

I have now received a great offer from a friendly UA-camr. He is willing to make drawings of my Tiny Toolgrinder! So, if all goes well, a video will be released soon with drawings and some detailed information about the construction.