Відео

No aluminium bronze

My e-mail address is really there. If you use an iPhone, you won't see it. Use a desktop/laptop/something else.

@@Michel-Uphoff Thanks, I sent you email

You don't want the "wavy" type because this shape is often made by pressing those alternate stress rising dents into the saw blade. They usually cost half as much (€ 20-30) as the saw bands where the teeth are set individually (€ 40-60). The "raker" and "straight" types are better. Saw band type: Bimetal, width 13mm length 1140 mm, suitable for (stainless) steel. See ua-cam.com/video/Mln0IWRIzjk/v-deo.html

Thank you David 🙂

Yes, a quick disengage would be a very nice addition. It's not that hard to realize. I would probably modify the adjustable nut under the table for that, making it a half nut. The fence is very precise repeatable, but you need to keep in mind that you first press the rear flush against the rear edge and only then tighten the clamp knob.

@@Michel-Uphoff That makes a lot of sense.

Send me an e-mail and I will return the drawings.

Built it a few years ago. See: ua-cam.com/video/y-Q7VShcVqo/v-deo.html

@@Michel-Uphoff Thank you!

And so it happened.. 🙂

No, that's not going to happen. I make these machines for my own enjoyment and use. If I were to make them for someone else, I would have to charge a fair fee, but with about 250 hours of work in one machine (which will of course be less the second time, but still a lot) such a machine would be far too expensive.

Yes, a common size. Makita: 792557-2 or 4.1140mmx13mm. Don't use those cheap corrugated blades (like a hacksaw), they crack to easily.

See the "about" section from this channel for my e-mail address to request the free drawings.

Yes, that has been noted before. The resemblance to those beautiful prosumer reel to reels is striking.

See part II for more insight. I have good experiences with the Makita 792556-2 and 792556-4 blades. Just google this.

Totally agree. Apparently many viewers are more charmed by the person than by the work. Real "fans", so to speak. Otherwise I don't understand why a 45 minutes video about drilling a few holes, accompanied by an equally long monotonous babble, gets so many likes from tens of thousands of subscribers. This seems to me to be mainly an U.S.A.!! thing. I suspect that the subscribers to this channel are better able to recognize craftsmanship, dedication and useful information. However, these people are only a small part of the worlds population I suspect, hence the low number of subscribers..

@leonida-alexandrudiaconu8660 Thank you, appreciate it 🙂

Send me an e-mail (see the about section of this channel). Do not use an Iphone..

Wheels with a lip would get busted on the blade teeth no? Commercial bandsaws all use crowned tires.

@@IsZomg Most metal bandsaws these days use wheels with a lip on one side where the back of the blade sits against, that removes the need to worry about metal chips digging into the tires. Tires are fine as long as you brush the swarf off.

I would not recommend using a quality saw band with individually set teeth on wheels without a rubber rim. The teeth will eventually eat into the wheels, just as Michel showed in one of his videos. This is less important for the cheap corrugated saw bands, but as Michel showed, they break much too quickly when using smaller wheel diameters. Furthermore, rubber has the great advantage that slippage does not occur quickly. A motor for wiping the band clean? That seems like a pointless addition to me.

@Andreas-Bauer21 The teeth hang off the edge, unless you want to use blade of different widths you're better off without tires. As I said, it's not a big deal. It's a small change that I would make if I built this. I wouldn't have to worry about changing the tires or chips and coolant affecting it. Cutting forces should be a sufficiently supplied by the tension of the blade, if you have to rely on the tires to prevent slipping your feed rate and rpm is wrong. Rotating blade brushes are pretty common in professional bandsaws, it makes a huge difference to blade lifespan.

@@ryebis I have see quite a few really small bandsaws, but never one with a lip. And I have never seen a band saw with a blade of only 13mm width where the teeth overhang, thus limiting the width of the wheel to only 10mm. Also, almost every small band saw has hard rubber rims around the wheels. Give me a few links to prove me wrong. Perhaps these kinds of features can be found in larger industrial machines, but we are in the wrong category for that. This is a tiny tabletop portable band saw, and I suspect there isn't even room for a blade wiping motor.

Unfortunately, that is not for me to decide. I will ask Thomas.

Yes! In a few days, next video

Have you seen: ua-cam.com/video/Gknf7rE0mb0/v-deo.htmlsi=3BbYPysOJwpQarO4&t=1141 I think it is better to have a fixed position for the head, and let the ruler move. If possible. As you can see I don't like the overly large, bulky rulers and reading heads. There is actually no need for that. But because those things are mainly mounted on large machines, the dimensions don't matter that much, that's why. With a mini mill small dimensions however are crucial. Now, if I see it correctly, the front of the reading head is 50 mm wide, but I assume that the actual sensor borders are closer together so that you don't even need all that 50 mm. You can easily test that yourself before you start building. If my suspicion is correct, then I would go for the stationary head as I have mounted it. The advantage is that there is no moving cable. Test it very well and measure whether you still have full range. Well, and if that is not possible, then I think your method is the most obvious.

@@Michel-Uphoff Thank you for the quick reply! Yes, I have seen that section of the video, but I haven't connected that knowledge to my issue! But now it makes sense! Just to check if I understand correctly: Now in winter, it's 18°C in my workplace. And in summer, it could be 33°C. (although realistically, it should be not that high) That would mean that the saddle measuring roughly 125mm on the Y axis would expand by upto .031 mm? I also thought that the reading head probably does not read across the whole 50mm range. The actual reader looks more closely to 32mm or so. (the sides look like they are solely for mounting holes) Maybe if I'm lucky the sensor only takes an even shorter distance. I will just test it out. Thank you!

@@bastian6173 It was more a reaction to the accuracy claims of those who use glass rulers. Quartz glass has a very low expansion coefficient, that is true. But that of steel is around 12 microns per meter per degree. Even with my small machine, with say 12 degrees temperature difference and a bed of 50 cm, it could lead to a difference of 0.07 mm, precisely BECAUSE quartz glass does not expand. In theory, a tape glued to steel is better, as long as you are also working with steel. Everything expands or shrinks the same amount.

@@Michel-Uphoff Ok, understood. I just did a quick test and it seems the head reads across a length of merely 8 mm. There are three lines on the reading head case which apparently indicate where the sensor is located. So with 108mm ot travel way and 125 of saddle length I can just glue the magnetic strip to the saddle. How did you do it with the Z axis? There it seems the only option is to glue the reading head to the yellow "head mount" (or whatever it's called)

@@bastian6173 See ua-cam.com/video/dhGLn6MObcE/v-deo.htmlsi=4_E3G88fBq9ZpSIQ

Maybe, although it will be a simple one

@@Compasscard Yours was also sold to you by Vevor?

Thank you! Who is the other one? (I guess he is from Ukraine)

@@Michel-UphoffYup!

It also appeals to me that for the most part both of you start with very modest tooling, yet get everything possible from those tools. It’s inspiring. Merry Christmas!

@@ikkentonda What is his channel name? I haven't had his videos "recommended" by UA-cam yet.

Gena Bazarko - another great channel

I assume you mean the final plates for the magnetic vice. All three plates are drilled through. On ua-cam.com/video/pWBckeaFobA/v-deo.htmlsi=tJ_7dCTbx89UdL20&t=389 you can see the dimensions. ( center to center distance 8 mm, diameter 6 mm, 2mm gap)

@Michel-Uphoff thanks for the info. I am assuming that each plate is 12 mm thickness

@@karlvella7627 10 mm. Magnets used: N52 ø6*10 mm. Maximum pulling force a piece 1.6 Kg, so a total maximum 270 kg

No reason, just coincidence. As a side project I'm busy to improve the Y-axis lead screw nut as I did with the X-axis. Have to take it apart so now en then, and the cover will return later on.

Personally, I find that filling a video with monotonous blah blah is quite soporific, and there are too many of those videos for me. There are enough videos where these simple machining operations are explained at length ad nauseam. Of course, if I do something that is more complex, I like to explain it or substantiate it with some theory. But simple constructions and machining operations such as drilling holes, reaming, milling flat and square, I prefer not to 'explain' all that what you already see. Unless of course a hole really needs to be reamed or a surface needs to be very hard and smooth or a threading has to be very fine, because that is necessary for correct operation, then I will report that. However, if you do have any questions, just ask, I'll be happy to explain it.

I bought a few of those vials and made a precision level myself. Maybe you will get inspired by these two videos: ua-cam.com/video/8F6tnOIg0FA/v-deo.html ua-cam.com/video/dhGLn6MObcE/v-deo.html

Ah, Nice!.Have you seen this and the previous video? ua-cam.com/video/dhGLn6MObcE/v-deo.html

@@Michel-Uphoff Didn't see the video, but NICE level! I actually rather use my level than my indicator flatness gage, it's less confusing. But that's just me. Thanks!

which means, you need a second flat surface and then you don't know which one is not flat... but yes it only gives you a limited information on flatness, defined by the distance of the contact points

It has its limitations. For example, you cannot distinguish between a perfect plane and a perfect sphere (inside and outside). For that, you would first have to do a calibration on a known flat surface. But by measuring several connecting points, or by moving the gauge while measuring, you can quickly and very easily obtain information about the condition of a surface, such as the ways of a lathe or the flatness of a plate. Moreover, you can read the actual values, which does not happen with the much more labor-intensive and not always applicable bluing. And as noted here, you will also need to have a suitable straight edge or calibration plate.

However, do you really work with precisions that require optically flat surfaces?

@@thigtsquare950 I would like that, the more accurate the better. But this instrument measures the lowest regions of the micrometer range, not the nanometer range like an optical flat with a resolution of say 25 nanometers.

@@thigtsquare950 That has got to be one of the dumbest questions that i have ever heard... It`s like asking someone if they run a Michelin star restaurant just because they want to make the best food possible... Perfection may be unattainable but that is not an excuse why you should not strive for it! You heretic!

@@stringmanipulator Thank you!

Dankjewel John. Those legs have M8x0.5 threading, and with those legs I can level the surface plate very accurately. But, at least as important, I can make sure that each leg carries the same amount of weight, so that sagging of the plate under its own weight is limited. If I loosen a leg, the floating part above it will sag by a large micron.

@@Michel-Uphoff Everything you make it is well thought. Keep up the good work