A tiny tabletop bandsaw Part V (the build continues)
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- Опубліковано 4 жов 2024
- I build the fine control for the cross feed, add brushes, start on the wiring and electronics, and have fun sawing away. What a nice machine this will be!
- Наука та технологія
Nice work Michel, those results more than validate your "proof of concept", Congrats!!
Thank you Colin. Nice to see you're always one of the first to respond.😊
Prachtig weer Michel !!!!!!! Ik kan hier zo van genieten ;-)
Very Nice Michel, It seems like a very handy tool for the small parts shop or instrument maker. And looks like a great project for the home shop machinist that will last his or her life time. I am very impressed and eagerly await the finishing touches. Cheers. Edit: fix spelling
Thank you.
Yes, that is exactly why I built this machine.
Wat is dit waanzinnig mooi. Een schitterende oplossing om meer space te creeren tussen het zaagblad en de machine.
Ik dacht altijd dat 2 wielen vereist was voor voldoende grip op de zaagblad (=> halve cirkel omtrek contact) maar je bewijst dat het met vier wielen ook prima gaat (=> kwart cirkel contact). Geweldig! 👍
Dankjewel 🙂
just perfect job, nice idea
Excellent! A great tool.
Thanks!
De tafellintzaag is GEWELDIG. Hoewel ik al een bandzaag voor het snijden van metaal heb, moet ik misschien toch een van deze kleine bandzagen maken en deze op een andere bank in mijn winkel zetten, dichter bij mijn molen en draaibank.
What a great project sir! One wonders why these are not commercially available…… excellent for people with limited space (as we’re used to in Holland)
How many of these could a company sell and at what price to even break even?
Impressive!
Thank you
this looks amazing! I wonder what it's maximum cutting thickness is, this looks extremely valuable for space limited hobby machinists like myself.
Haven't tested that yet. I was aiming for a 6 cm solid bar as a maximum.
Yes, the machine fits in a limited space, but is not limited in capacity, precision and versatility I hope.
@@Michel-Uphoff that's ecactly what I was thinking, too. looks like the perfect desk top tool, in that it is capable of that precision and versatility while sitting on a corner of a bench.6cm solid is probably all my lathe and mill could handle anyway so that sounds perfect! thanks for replying!
You should glue the capacitors to the circuit board. A blob of hot glue or silicone sealant will do the job.
Otherwise, with the driver attached to the machine, vibrations will be shaking those big capacitors, leading to failure.
There are hardly any perceptible vibrations. So that's not necessary.
Looking good! You shouldn't tin the ends of wires with solder if they are going into screw terminals though. the solder will creep over time and you will get a bad connection. i had this with one of the early versions of my 3d printer. either use bare wire, or a crimp termination
Yes, I've read that. There are however multiple and sometimes conflicting arguments to do or not do so. However, I never had any problems with it, and I am doing it this way for 50+ years.
@@Michel-Uphoff I wouldn't have believed it was an issue until i had a problem with it myself. I had to keep tightening the screws only to have them get loose and make a poor connection a few days later. if it works for you though then no problem of course.. probably depends on the solder, wire, current etc
@@Sigmatechnica Yes, that could be the case. But I also think that some people do not twist the ends of the wires together firmly before soldering them. If you do not twist the strands, but leave them parallel and then solder them, little force is required to break the bond and press the strands apart with a clamp bolt. This can then result in a sub-optimal connection.
@@Michel-Uphoff I recently started using crimp-on bootlace ferrules for stranded wire going in to terminal blocks, and I really like them.
@@Michel-Uphoff Please do use ferrules for this job. As others has said. Solder can "flow" under pressure and the connection is loosening.
There is literally no excuse to not use ferrules. They are easy to use, faster than tinning and if you use the isolation ferrules it provides some mechanical stress relief.
i was thinking, sir, that putting as much mass as possible on the periphery of the rollers would give the maximum rotational inertia, for smoothest band velocity when the cut encounters different density/resistance...if that matters...
I do think that the inertia of the wheels will contribute somewhat to the quality of the cut, but it will not be much. So far I haven't noticed the rpm changing while cutting. This is largely due to the constant cutting speed and torque that the engine can deliver.
Michel, my knurling became much better when I started calculating the right diameter for the knurling. If you don't know; divide the circumference of the theoretical diameter with the pitch/spacing of the knurl. Keep the integer and loose the float. Multiply the integer with the pitch. Divide by Pi. This outcome is the desired diameter. Turn the part to this and you'll end up with nice knurls with no in between marks. Another tip; don't solder the wire end when clamped. The solder will creep indefinitely under the clamp pressure and will end up loose. It's better to use crimp ferrules, ask me how I know.. Thank you! Best! Job
I may have done something wrong, but I fear it is due to my far too cheap knurling wheels. The measured diameter of one knurling wheel is 19.15 mm. But the other one is 19.36 mm in diameter and here it goes very wrong with a circumference difference of almost 0.66 mm.
50 teeth per wheel, so the pitch is 1.203 mm (or 1.216 mm). So the wheels already differ by half a pitch. First I'm going to buy a set of quality knurling wheels and build the knurling tool myself. I'm thinking off carbide wheels. Do you have a tip where I can buy good ones?
I don't have ferules nor a plier, so I twisted the strands before soldering as I always do. Never ever had any problems with that.
I'l look in to a set of ferrules and a plier.
@@Michel-Uphoff Michel, I used HSS ones for many years and they still work fine. I bought mine from a company which doesn't exist any more. But Rubix and Hoffmann sell them too. The cutting ones are the best although expensive. They are offered at MarkPlaats irregularly. Best, Job
@@Michel-Uphoff even if you don't use ferrules, it's better to just twist the wires together and stick them in like that. the solder will work perfectly fine for an unpredictable length of time and then fail, possibly ruining the contacts or worse
Love It
Me too..
👍💪✌
👍👍😎👍👍
Where did you 4:09 purchase that thin chip brush with the green handle? Its really cool!
Google for Hard-Bristled Crevice Cleaning Brush, and I think you will find similar brushes.