Here in short the most frequently requested numbers: Total deflection best commercial model magnetic indicator base I own: - 17 µm in the shaft - 5 µm in the base/connection (at best, measured quite some more in other models, up to 20+ µm). - So at least 22 µm deflection at 0.4 Nm torque. Improvements due to new model: - Stronger magnetic attraction (if so..): no gain - Thicker shaft: - 11 µm - Shorter shaft: - 3 µm - More solid base and connection - 4 µm (and up to -24 µm) - Total gain: - 18 µm (at least) - Measured deflection < 4µm
It's so fascinating watching someone work who seems so dedicated to precision. Not to speak on something I haven't really studied but you seem to know so much about metrology. I don't know if I have seen a more careful band saw anywhere.
I like your idea and the beautiful workmanship! Any chance you could share your design drawings? I have always wanted to make my own base too, however, I'm just not that clever, especially with any maths that may be involved. Thanks for sharing your idea though.
@@Michel-Uphoff I also enjoy the engineering math you demonstrate in your projects. It adds scientific rigour to what I consider otherwise to be elegant works of art. Keep making videos. I'm quite a fan.
What an amazing mag base. That has some very impressive holding power. I can see so many uses for a set of these apart from holding indicators. Thanks for sharing your very detailed and accurate build. :)
@@Michel-Uphoff I was only halfway through your video when I commented. I’ve watched it all now, wow! I love the quality of your parts, it’s a thing of beauty! As a new subscriber (today), may i ask… do you have any videos on your other fine tools? They look super good. Cheers
@@Michel-Uphofflol I was just looking at your channel and was now coming back to delete my question! Your channel looks great, im off to watch some more.
@@Michel-Uphoff well you can enjoy more with the money you make :) You've explained it well enough for a hobbyist to make this at home, hoping to see others make their versions of it.
This video is brought to you by loc tite 🤣🤣 Lovely video and this makes a nice project 👍😀. You state in the beginning that these magnet types holder's are not very stable but you place it on a marble plate 😋... I believe that these types of magnetic stands are not suitable for accurate measurements and can only give a reasonable result when using micrometers uo to 1/100 of a mm at best. If you want to measure in the 1/1000 mm range the old style metal base that rest on 3 balls are the best. They have a large surface and good mass for stability. I have been in a climate controlled measuring room and i can't remember if they used the magnetic types at all . I remember they had accurate marble plates and the cast iron type plates , but I can't recall that they had any magnetic stands but I remember the non magnetic types. P.s. when cutting aluminium on your bandsaw , lathe or mill use wd40 and you will get a better result in cutting and finish 😀👍. That is also the only reason why you should use wd40 in the workshop .... it's pretty much useless for anything else 🤣.
Not Loctite, but metal glue from G-fittings. I only placed the magnet bases on the granite table for the photo. As you can see in the video, they are used on a cast iron surface plate. In the video I mention that these types of bases are fine for indication, but not for accurate measuring on the surface plate. I want to do something about that with this build. Wd40 is too messy for me, I use alcohol to cool and lubricate while machining aluminum.
Nice stand. Pachelbel's canon is always a good choice of music too. But how much of the reduction in deflection is due to A) the stronger magnets, B) the shorter shaft and C) the thicker shaft? Could the same reduction in deflection have been achieved by simply putting the shorter, thicker mounting shaft on a commercially available magnetic base?
Michel, This a lovely design, beautifully executed and very satisfying to complete. I have no wish to detract from this, what would have happened if you fitted a thicker, stiffer stem to the existing mag bases?
Thank you! That would certainly contribute to the rigidity, but then the bottom of the stem, the attachment point to the base, still remains a weak spot. One could drill out the M8 thread and, for example, tap M14 (with fine pitch) into it. That would also help somewhat. But you are still left with the relatively thin and weak material at the top of the base and that short piece of thread. It now contains that thicker rod, but like a tree with a root system that is far too small, it will never really become rigid, especially because the base at that point is made of soft aluminum.
@@Michel-Uphoff a good analogy, and a well considered analysis , thank you . I too have been frustrated by the lack of rigidity of my gauge bases so I might try the less demanding engineering route.
What need do you have for these tighter tolerances? ie are you remaking these tools just for the sake of it or did you, for example, try prototyping something and saw that the existing ones are not cutting it? great channel
Looking good - but I still find it a bit unclear what the exact source of the problem is. The screwing? The fact that M8 is too thin? What happened if you just screw in a thicker rod? What's wrong with the magnetic mechanism?
Nice job as usual... What is material of that shaft? I'm thinking of linear bearing shafts as almost perfect for this application. Precision ground, surface hardened... and not expensive.
This was a great video. Only one thing remained unclear to me. How did you register the two perforated disks so the actuating motion was exactly aligned when the lever was at one end of the travel? I was trying to think ahead and the only way I could see was to have very accurate mark when you glued in the bottom plate or you let the bottom plate self align with the magnets but that might have been a 'glue' drying timing issue.
@KallePihlajasaari Yes that's what I did. It's not visible in the video, but before I glued the bottom with the steel cylinders into the ring, I put a witness mark on the inside wall of the ring and on the disc. These were placed in such a way that the magnets were exactly above the steel cylinders when the lever was turned all the way to the right.
Very nice video, as usual. I like the vertically rotating / sliding rather than horizontally rotating design, although I can see why the horizontally rotating design is more common - it's far easier and cheaper to manufacture. There's nothing wrong with improving a design just for the hell of it, though, so have at it! 4 microns is a hell of a result. Please, though. Aluminium is pronounced as it's spelt, "al-you-min-ee-um" and not with the horrible lazy americanism "al-oo-min-um". Have doubts? Do you pronounce titanium as "tie-ten-um"?
@@Michel-Uphoff Merriam-Webster is a dictionary of american english, but even they note "in 1990 The International Union of Pure and Applied Chemistry (IUPAC) accepted aluminium as the international standard." and "aluminum used by the English speakers of North America, and aluminium used everywhere else" :)
Here in short the most frequently requested numbers:
Total deflection best commercial model magnetic indicator base I own:
- 17 µm in the shaft
- 5 µm in the base/connection (at best, measured quite some more in other models, up to 20+ µm).
- So at least 22 µm deflection at 0.4 Nm torque.
Improvements due to new model:
- Stronger magnetic attraction (if so..): no gain
- Thicker shaft: - 11 µm
- Shorter shaft: - 3 µm
- More solid base and connection - 4 µm (and up to -24 µm)
- Total gain: - 18 µm (at least)
- Measured deflection < 4µm
Wow! I don’t know how your videos have never showed up in my feed, but I now have lots of material to catch up on. Beautiful job on this base!
It's so fascinating watching someone work who seems so dedicated to precision. Not to speak on something I haven't really studied but you seem to know so much about metrology.
I don't know if I have seen a more careful band saw anywhere.
I like that the wedding music played while he was marrying the parts
Elegant design! I love the axial bearing in there. I imagine the action to move very smooth?
Thank you Stefan 🙂
Yes, the lever can be turned with one fingertip, although fastening is somewhat smoother than loosening.
Wow. Impressive work. The math was spot on.
Excellent Michel. I like the design and function very much.
Thanks!
I like your idea and the beautiful workmanship! Any chance you could share your design drawings? I have always wanted to make my own base too, however, I'm just not that clever, especially with any maths that may be involved. Thanks for sharing your idea though.
At the end of this series I will make some simple drawings.
Now that’s what men in shades can do
Great work sir I love your drive to do better
Thank you
"Now that’s what men in shades can do"
I don't know what that means.. sorry
Another great series to watch! Thanks, Michel!
Glad you enjoy it 🙂
@@Michel-Uphoff I also enjoy the engineering math you demonstrate in your projects. It adds scientific rigour to what I consider otherwise to be elegant works of art. Keep making videos. I'm quite a fan.
What an amazing mag base. That has some very impressive holding power. I can see so many uses for a set of these apart from holding indicators. Thanks for sharing your very detailed and accurate build. :)
And what a slick release lever.
I also like it
Michel, thanks for another hypothesis & well thought out solution, Congrats!
Looking forward to your next instalment.
Thanks Colin 🙂
Almost skipped this over because it's such a common tool, but this is excellent work. We shared this video on our homemade tools forum last week 😎
Great job. Better than expected is always good.
Regards, Preso.
Thank you Mark 🙂
Well calculated, well built, impressive!
This looks very promising! Thanks for sharing.
Nice build looking forward to seeing the rest.
Beautifully made, and excellent results
thanks!
Excellent as usual. Thanks for showing us . Cheers
Thank you
Michael this is so good.
Thank you Julian 😊
@@Michel-Uphoff I was only halfway through your video when I commented. I’ve watched it all now, wow! I love the quality of your parts, it’s a thing of beauty! As a new subscriber (today), may i ask… do you have any videos on your other fine tools? They look super good. Cheers
@@JulianMakes Yes, see the rest of my channel.
@@Michel-Uphofflol I was just looking at your channel and was now coming back to delete my question! Your channel looks great, im off to watch some more.
Beautiful work and craftsmanship as always, thank you for sharing!
Thank you Victor 🙂
Lovely craftsmanship and well explained. You should sell these Michel :)
I'm doing this to enjoy, not to earn money 🙂
@@Michel-Uphoff well you can enjoy more with the money you make :) You've explained it well enough for a hobbyist to make this at home, hoping to see others make their versions of it.
Nao vejo a hora de ver vc terminar,e explicar quaia material foi usado e desenho sempre quis intender funcionamento
NIce design! Nice build Michel! Best, Job
Dankjewel Job 🙂
Nice work! I had been thinking of going and buying one, might go this route instead now
Given your voiceover voice I would like to call you Clive. Clive, I have been enjoying watching your videos.
Actually, the AI voiceover is named Paul, but I call him Brian 🙂
And that is not a lot of movement, very nicely done.
Just discovered your channel, subscribed! thanks for sharing!
I'm thinking of 3d printing part with holes for magnets... Idia is cool, thanks
Beautiful work.
This video is brought to you by loc tite 🤣🤣
Lovely video and this makes a nice project 👍😀.
You state in the beginning that these magnet types holder's are not very stable but you place it on a marble plate 😋...
I believe that these types of magnetic stands are not suitable for accurate measurements and can only give a reasonable result when using micrometers uo to 1/100 of a mm at best.
If you want to measure in the 1/1000 mm range the old style metal base that rest on 3 balls are the best.
They have a large surface and good mass for stability.
I have been in a climate controlled measuring room and i can't remember if they used the magnetic types at all .
I remember they had accurate marble plates and the cast iron type plates , but I can't recall that they had any magnetic stands but I remember the non magnetic types.
P.s. when cutting aluminium on your bandsaw , lathe or mill use wd40 and you will get a better result in cutting and finish 😀👍.
That is also the only reason why you should use wd40 in the workshop .... it's pretty much useless for anything else 🤣.
Not Loctite, but metal glue from G-fittings. I only placed the magnet bases on the granite table for the photo. As you can see in the video, they are used on a cast iron surface plate. In the video I mention that these types of bases are fine for indication, but not for accurate measuring on the surface plate. I want to do something about that with this build.
Wd40 is too messy for me, I use alcohol to cool and lubricate while machining aluminum.
Outstanding, thank you for sharing
Nice stand. Pachelbel's canon is always a good choice of music too. But how much of the reduction in deflection is due to A) the stronger magnets, B) the shorter shaft and C) the thicker shaft? Could the same reduction in deflection have been achieved by simply putting the shorter, thicker mounting shaft on a commercially available magnetic base?
See the pinned message at the top.
Michel,
This a lovely design, beautifully executed and very satisfying to complete. I have no wish to detract from this, what would have happened if you fitted a thicker, stiffer stem to the existing mag bases?
Thank you!
That would certainly contribute to the rigidity, but then the bottom of the stem, the attachment point to the base, still remains a weak spot. One could drill out the M8 thread and, for example, tap M14 (with fine pitch) into it. That would also help somewhat. But you are still left with the relatively thin and weak material at the top of the base and that short piece of thread. It now contains that thicker rod, but like a tree with a root system that is far too small, it will never really become rigid, especially because the base at that point is made of soft aluminum.
@@Michel-Uphoff a good analogy, and a well considered analysis , thank you . I too have been frustrated by the lack of rigidity of my gauge bases so I might try the less demanding engineering route.
What need do you have for these tighter tolerances? ie are you remaking these tools just for the sake of it or did you, for example, try prototyping something and saw that the existing ones are not cutting it? great channel
I have no real "need". As a kind of precision geek "me wants it"
And I just enjoy the process of creating nice hardware.
Very impressive Michel.
Thanks!
Looking good - but I still find it a bit unclear what the exact source of the problem is. The screwing? The fact that M8 is too thin? What happened if you just screw in a thicker rod? What's wrong with the magnetic mechanism?
See pinned answer.
Beeindruckend - Impressive
Nice job as usual...
What is material of that shaft?
I'm thinking of linear bearing shafts as almost perfect for this application. Precision ground, surface hardened... and not expensive.
And that's exactly the type of shaft I have used. Bought a bunch of them at different diameters a few years ago, and they still come in handy.
This was a great video.
Only one thing remained unclear to me. How did you register the two perforated disks so the actuating motion was exactly aligned when the lever was at one end of the travel?
I was trying to think ahead and the only way I could see was to have very accurate mark when you glued in the bottom plate or you let the bottom plate self align with the magnets but that might have been a 'glue' drying timing issue.
Based on the length of the slot on the side
@KallePihlajasaari Yes that's what I did. It's not visible in the video, but before I glued the bottom with the steel cylinders into the ring, I put a witness mark on the inside wall of the ring and on the disc. These were placed in such a way that the magnets were exactly above the steel cylinders when the lever was turned all the way to the right.
Super!
👍🌟😎🌟👍
Wow!
Very nice video, as usual. I like the vertically rotating / sliding rather than horizontally rotating design, although I can see why the horizontally rotating design is more common - it's far easier and cheaper to manufacture. There's nothing wrong with improving a design just for the hell of it, though, so have at it! 4 microns is a hell of a result.
Please, though. Aluminium is pronounced as it's spelt, "al-you-min-ee-um" and not with the horrible lazy americanism "al-oo-min-um". Have doubts? Do you pronounce titanium as "tie-ten-um"?
Thank you!
Ah.. Potato, potahto, tomato, tomahto
See: www.merriam-webster.com/grammar/aluminum-vs-aluminium
@@Michel-Uphoff Merriam-Webster is a dictionary of american english, but even they note
"in 1990 The International Union of Pure and Applied Chemistry (IUPAC) accepted aluminium as the international standard."
and
"aluminum used by the English speakers of North America, and aluminium used everywhere else"
:)
What is this 'aluminum' you speak of? 😂 Great video, thank you.
... but the shirt!? ...
I want one, it's a great shirt
As slick as the machining!
Yes, I thought I was the only one who noticed . Shirt is as beautiful as the workmanship.