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Sunk Cost Garage
United States
Приєднався 15 вер 2020
I'm just a guy who bought a basket case Jeep that may or may not ever run reliably again. I don't know if this channel will be instructional, more blog than instruction, or a compilation of failures. But like and subscribe, you'll see me run through a vintage Jeep restoration the wrong way! Maybe you'll learn a thing or two along the way.
I'll also share a few other projects that I get into as the channel grows. I like making rusty things usable again.
I'll also share a few other projects that I get into as the channel grows. I like making rusty things usable again.
Ep. 84.5: The Importance of Not Making Assumptions
Admittedly, this is my first points and condenser vehicle. Every other vehicle I've owned or driven was EFI and computer controlled. But I know I set the points gap to .020 awhile back. And I know I greased them up because I previously made the rookie mistake of NOT greasing a set of points and they melted instantly and left me stuck in the middle of the road. (Lesson learned.) So it's a mystery to me how my points gap went from .020 to 0 in 50 miles or so of driving. But it was wrong of me to assume that the gap was still .020 when I was having what looked like ignition system issues.
I still intend on re-checking the ignition timing with a vacuum gauge and looking for vacuum leaks before calling it done, but it's so much closer than it was before. [Update: Dialed it back a couple degrees to around 10-11, it's a bit smoother and idles lower now. Still can't get it to read correctly on the timing light though.]
Previous video where I installed the carb that made this run better: ua-cam.com/video/iM8e53Z5mmo/v-deo.html
Timestamps:
0:00 - Intro/Problem/Solution
2:21 - Timing Light Oddity (Strobe warning)
3:19 - Test Drive
6:38 - Final Thoughts
I still intend on re-checking the ignition timing with a vacuum gauge and looking for vacuum leaks before calling it done, but it's so much closer than it was before. [Update: Dialed it back a couple degrees to around 10-11, it's a bit smoother and idles lower now. Still can't get it to read correctly on the timing light though.]
Previous video where I installed the carb that made this run better: ua-cam.com/video/iM8e53Z5mmo/v-deo.html
Timestamps:
0:00 - Intro/Problem/Solution
2:21 - Timing Light Oddity (Strobe warning)
3:19 - Test Drive
6:38 - Final Thoughts
Переглядів: 110
Відео
Ep. 84: Out With the New, In With the Old
Переглядів 1614 години тому
I shipped my original Carter WO carburetor out to Sal at Vintage Jeeper in Pennsylvania for a proper rebuild and calibration. The Joe's Motor Pool carb just wasn't quite working right anymore. (And my attempt to clean and adjust it did NOT do it any favors.) He gave it a thorough cleaning, rebuild, and calibration, then gave it a test drive to prove its capabilities. It came back in fantastic c...
Ep. 83: Carburetor Issues and a Valve Adjustment
Переглядів 21921 день тому
I've been growing increasingly frustrated with the Jeep's inability to run and idle well lately. I thought I had it figured out at the beginning of the video, but by the end of the video the original problem had come back. There was definitely an exhaust leak due to a failed gasket between the manifolds but I didn't expect every gasket to be leaking in places. After pulling the manifolds, clean...
Basket Case Lane Acclaim Coffee Table (Salvage Operation)
Переглядів 156Місяць тому
I picked up this basket case Lane Acclaim coffee table on a whim for $5 because it was pretty well ruined already. It was water damaged from being rained on, the entire side of it was broken off, there was loose veneer and water stains, there was basically no finish left on it, and overall it was not worth trying to rescue. But, for $5 I figured it might be worth trying to salvage. I was able t...
Ep.82: CJ2A Cowl Seal Replacement
Переглядів 2832 місяці тому
(I have no idea what the heck happened to my microphone for this one so half of it is voiceovers to replace the trashed audio.) I finally got around to an easy task that I put off for awhile. My 1948 CJ2A has a very early civilian (VEC) windshield from a late 1945/early 1946 CJ2A for some reason. I figured the screws would be too rusted to want to come out intact. The cowl to windshield rubber ...
Jeep Engine Stumbling Question
Переглядів 3383 місяці тому
Hey folks. Long time viewers will know that I've done a lot to the Jeep and got the old L134 running really well in the past, but recently it has started sputtering and missing and misbehaving and I'm not sure why. I've done some basic troubleshooting and it all seems fine. It's to the point where I almost don't want to drive anywhere because I could end up on the side of the road. To recap, it...
Weekend Projects: SCRAP L134 Flathead Desk Lamp
Переглядів 1354 місяці тому
I picked up this cracked L134 flathead cylinder head for cheap because it has a 10 inch crack that snakes from the number 4 spark plug area around the side and back. No amount of welding or brazing could bring it back to a reliable, usable state. It was destined to either be scrapped, turned into a coat rack, or turned into a lamp. I also had a cheap broken floor lamp sitting around that I had ...
Weekend Projects: Needs More Cowbell (Quick Cleanup)
Переглядів 1134 місяці тому
A coworker knows that I like to clean up old rusty things as a hobby so he asked me to clean up this cowbell for him. It looked like it might take a little work but could be done. The original plan was to chemically remove the rust with Evaporust, media blast the entire thing to get a good even surface finish, then either polish it or cold blue it depending on his preference. This did not go ac...
"Abandoned" Dana 41 Rear Axle - Can it be saved? Part 6: Final Reassembly
Переглядів 4885 місяців тому
Life has been crazy lately and priorities shifted a bit, but I found a little time here and there to finish dialing in the Dana 41 rear axle for the 1948 Willys CJ2A. (You can tell by the wide variety of shirts I'm wearing throughout this one. Many days of 30-45 minutes at a time.) Shim packs were built, bearings were pressed on or hammered on, and backlash was set. The differential rebuild sho...
Ep. 81: 1948 CJ2A OEM Drivers Side Heater Reinstall
Переглядів 5437 місяців тому
I removed the original 75 year old driver's side heater from the 1948 Willys CJ2A Jeep project over two years ago (way back in Ep. 41) so I could have room to figure out some wiring issues. Last month, I pulled it from the scrap pile and found that remarkably, the heater was not in as bad shape as it looked, and I was able to salvage it in the previous episode. It is now way too nice and clean ...
December 2023 Update, 1000+ Subscribers!
Переглядів 1448 місяців тому
December 2023 Update, 1000 Subscribers!
Ep. 80: CJ2A Drivers Side Heater Refurb (I Thought it Was SCRAP!)
Переглядів 5399 місяців тому
Ep. 80: CJ2A Drivers Side Heater Refurb (I Thought it Was SCRAP!)
"Abandoned" Dana 41 Rear Axle - Can it be saved? Part 5: Reassembly Begins
Переглядів 4339 місяців тому
"Abandoned" Dana 41 Rear Axle - Can it be saved? Part 5: Reassembly Begins
1948 Willys Jeep RESCUE! Over 3 SLOW Years of Work in UNDER 14 Minutes!
Переглядів 5 тис.10 місяців тому
1948 Willys Jeep RESCUE! Over 3 SLOW Years of Work in UNDER 14 Minutes!
Garage Organization Update! US General Series 3 56" Tool Chest
Переглядів 13 тис.10 місяців тому
Garage Organization Update! US General Series 3 56" Tool Chest
(Quick) Flea Market Tool Rescue 3 - Random Billings Wrench
Переглядів 8810 місяців тому
(Quick) Flea Market Tool Rescue 3 - Random Billings Wrench
September 2023 Cars and Coffee - Little Rock, AR
Переглядів 31411 місяців тому
September 2023 Cars and Coffee - Little Rock, AR
How bad could it be? Rusted Differential Cover into... Wall Art?
Переглядів 28711 місяців тому
How bad could it be? Rusted Differential Cover into... Wall Art?
"Abandoned" Dana 41 Rear Axle - Can it be saved? Part 4: Paint (and Starting Reassembly)
Переглядів 33711 місяців тому
"Abandoned" Dana 41 Rear Axle - Can it be saved? Part 4: Paint (and Starting Reassembly)
"Abandoned" Dana 41 Rear Axle - Can it be saved? Part 3: Cleanup and Primer
Переглядів 37211 місяців тому
"Abandoned" Dana 41 Rear Axle - Can it be saved? Part 3: Cleanup and Primer
August 2023 Cars and Coffee - Little Rock, AR
Переглядів 235Рік тому
August 2023 Cars and Coffee - Little Rock, AR
"Abandoned" Dana 41 Rear Axle - Can it be saved? Part 2: Teardown and Cleanup
Переглядів 472Рік тому
"Abandoned" Dana 41 Rear Axle - Can it be saved? Part 2: Teardown and Cleanup
"Abandoned" Dana 41 Rear Axle - Can It Be Saved? Part 1: Teardown
Переглядів 427Рік тому
"Abandoned" Dana 41 Rear Axle - Can It Be Saved? Part 1: Teardown
Taking the 1945 Bantam T3-C Trailer on a Road Trip! (For Project Axles!)
Переглядів 590Рік тому
Taking the 1945 Bantam T3-C Trailer on a Road Trip! (For Project Axles!)
Ep. 79: Rear Seat Retaining Clip Restoration (For a New Rear Seat, Of Course)
Переглядів 373Рік тому
Ep. 79: Rear Seat Retaining Clip Restoration (For a New Rear Seat, Of Course)
Ep. 78: Installing a Summer Top from Kaiser Willys
Переглядів 2,3 тис.Рік тому
Ep. 78: Installing a Summer Top from Kaiser Willys
You AREN'T supposed to LITERALLY drive the WHEELS OFF your Jeep.
Переглядів 554Рік тому
You AREN'T supposed to LITERALLY drive the WHEELS OFF your Jeep.
I Read the Comments... And Got a Vacuum Gauge.
Переглядів 299Рік тому
I Read the Comments... And Got a Vacuum Gauge.
Try setting your timing with a vacuum gauge. I can't see the flywheel markes worth a crap but I've been setting the timing (I'm running a pertronix e-ignition) with a vacuum gauge by advancing to max vacuum then backing it off 1 inch of vacuum. So far even on our 100+ degree days I've not had any detonation setting it like this and good power.
Way ahead of you. I did that today for a sanity check. Backed it off a few degrees and it seems to still be running ok.
Glad to see you got it. I'd go electronic ignition since you're already 12 volt.
I keep hearing things about the reliability of points yet even really high end ones have given me trouble. I'm really thinking about installing an electronic ignition because it would set the stage for an EFI conversion...
@@SunkCostGarage screw points. I own a lot of vehicles that were built with points. I've converted most over to electronic (pertronx). Never looked back. The jeep in particular starts easier and runs way smoother. Plus you can always go back to points if you so wish. No permanent modifications required
Im really glad you found the issue, maybe the hold down screw got loose? Points gap definitely doesn't set to 0 after so little, I have a Toyota that probably has like 50k miles on a set of points amd ive never checked them or greased the thing. Great follow up video looking forward to what you do next! Enjoy the jeep!
Put the joes carburetor back on and see how it does
I would love to do it for a comparison, but I actually messed up the Joe's carb in the process of putting it back together. I think I bent the float by either dropping it or setting something on it, because it's set to the correct height but it absolutely does not close the needle and the carb just floods like crazy now.
@@SunkCostGarage The metering rod adjustment is critical.I bought the adjusting tool for mine and it made a world of difference
@@timfagan1289 I used the tools to "fix" the JMP carb and it made it worse.
That even sounds more like an L head now then before. Nice work.
That's good feedback to hear, because it has never sounded "right" to me until recently. I've seen plenty of other videos of people driving L heads and mine never quite sounded the same. If I can get out there with a vacuum gauge and get the idle down to between 600 and 700 RPMS, I think I can finally consider it "dialed in".
@@SunkCostGarage Good stuff Bradley!
That's great now you can start off roading. As far as your rear differential I would keep driving it. Just make sure you have good gear oil in it. Points over time will wear down the plastic lobe thus the gap becomes less over time. Good luck and May your Willys trails have a good tread.
Fortunately I spent way too much time and effort rebuilding a spare Dana 41 to swap in. I just need to find the time to get it swapped in. The current one is likely rebuildable, the bearings are just shot. It has fresh oil for now at least. And I figured that the points block was a wear item, but 50 miles to lose .020 of gap? That's a little too soon.
Good for you, you must feel so relieved 😊👍
Very much so.
Oh my god, guys... As it turns out, my points gap had inexplicably reset itself to 0 instead of .020 and that's why it was running like garbage. Follow up video soon...
I was about to suggest a vacuum gauge to start doing some more diagnostics. Glad you found it. I'm always glad I made the change over to the Pertronix Electronic Ignition. It's not "right" for that time frame but it makes life so much easier.
Really glad to hear you found the problem, did the rubbing block of the points wear off like last time? It's a simple thing to fix, yet it's very important to determine why would it do such thing, so it doesn't happen again and that's where the challenge lies. Really looking forward to the follow up video!
@@ginacoronel6872 There was some wear on the rubbing block but it wasn't totally gone. (Been there, done that, oops, lesson learned.)
@@jeepinbanditrider I'm still gonna dust off the vacuum gauge and re-check the ignition timing. It's still idling too high and I don't suspect a vacuum leak (but will be looking for one all the same).
@@SunkCostGarage I have such a hard time seeing the timing marks with a light that I've been setting it with the vacuum gauge when I'm doing tuneups and have been really happy with it. Advance to maximum vacuum, then retard one inch of vacuum.
You have come a long way!! I'm sure it is frustrating but it also nice to see the engine all black and restored by you... Step by step!!!
Good luck dialing it in! I’d check your voltage at the battery while not running, then take the positive on the volt meter and put it on the positive of the coil terminal when ignition switch is in the run position (engine not running). That might identify if there is an electrical decay from the battery to the coil (loose/damaged wire, ignition switch, etc.). If nothing else that checks it off the list!
possibly check fuel pump pressure ? maybe to low or to high just a thought
Frustrating for sure.
13 degrees does sound a bit much for your elevation. I'd say around 10 should be better. But don't worry about it too much, that'd just cause loss of performance, but not the putter and hesitation you have. The main thing to check is plugs, coil and wires in that order. I know they are new, but maybe you got some bad ones. Also check the alternator, it could be sending surges and messing with the ignition.
I thought the timing might be slightly too advanced. The vacuum gauge made me set it there and I confirmed 13 degrees with a timing light, but that was with the other carb and before the valve adjustment. (And the vacuum gauge was generic off Amazon, so the quality/accuracy could easily be in question.) The plugs weren't gapped right before (they are now) but they all give a good strong blue spark. Wires are new and should be good, I wouldn't think one would be bad but I do have a spare set that I could swap on for science. The coil definitely tested good on a meter during that exhaustive troubleshooting video awhile back. The only other wild card is the alternator. It's putting out 14+ volts, which is good though it might be a little high. I haven't messed with it because it "works" but my dad did buy a rebuild kit for it early on in the project. We just haven't tried to do it.
You should put some the vice grip garage patina stuff on that awesome jeep
I definitely thought about it. There's not much paint on the front half. But I'm also thinking about learning how to weld and do some of the metal work it needs to make it right. Then it would get the usual sealer, body filler, and real paint (which is another thing I'd love to learn).
Awesome job! Keep it going! It's great to see you working! Thank you!!
I had Scout Pilot rebuild my original Carter. Runs well! He will send you a video of it running on his Willys. oldjeepcarbs.com/!
Just a suggestion try an old ignition condenser - the new China condensers are junk.
Condenser tested good, it's a Blue Streak which is about the best you can get these days. I don't have a known good "old" one to try, unfortunately.
The pump can be rebuilt to get diaphragm out. Remove rocker arm spring then you can see movable part behine it. With long nose vice grips squeeze it and this forces the lever upwards. Push down and away from the rocker arm it will slip over and out reverse the process to install new diaphragm and parts.
This fuel pump was one of the non-rebuildable types. (Or at least, not easily rebuildable.) The diaphragm came out fine, etc. but it was the check valves that didn't come out. The rebuildable ones have a little retainer that unscrews and the check valves fall right out. This one had them pressed in with the metal around them upset to hold them in place. You would have to drill them out carefully, install new ones, then upset the metal again to hold them in place.
I've got nothing! Does the Jeep need some coffee...again, I got nothing!
It can't even make a coffee run right now. Though it was cool to start it up with no carburetor on since the intake was full of gas :/
I have had to clean out the idle circuit on my Solex twice in 250 miles. The second time I cleaned it, it didn't seem to solve the problem. That is, until I got so frustrated that I ordered a replacement. The day the replacement arrived, the existing one decided to run just fine. I guess I scared it straight. Runs fine now
A replacement Solex is under $150. I know it is not original, but it is worth the price of alleviated frustration. That is, if you believe the problem still lies in the carburetor
I have an idea you could try, I have a Jeep with a Toyota engine, known for being quite good, but for me it has always run like garbage, and one thing I discovered is that if I disconnect the alternator it runs good, I've followed your channel for a really long time and I'm really confused as what could make your Jeep run rough. Since you have so many good new parts on it, it should run like a top. So my guess is that you should have some electrical gremlin of some sort to act so weird, good luck and don't lose hope! 👍
I have questions about the alternator myself. It's putting out 14.5V now according to the gauge. Could be overcharging. I know from driving several Hondas that electrical issues can cause weird stuff. A single corroded ground can wreak havoc on sensors, causing the computer to throw codes that make no sense. Even on this jeep where there are no computers, weird stuff can still happen on the ignition side.
@@SunkCostGarage mine puts out 15/16v and runs fine it’s a bit high but haven’t had any issues. I’m running a gm style 1 wire. If your problem was electrical I would think you wouldn’t even get it to run. You technically can run it for a while on just the battery without the alternator since the only thing that needs juice is the coil once it’s started. Are you getting 12v to the coil consistently? You can test this easily by just discounting the alternator (leave the belt in place just unplug the wire and see if it runs better)
I'll have to get the meter out and confirm that tomorrow.
I bought a beater CJ5 and I knew the valves needed adjustment, as they are always forgotten. The best one had like .006 lash, a couple had none and most were between .002-.004, also two spark plugs were dead. Can't believe the engine would run, also the engine oil was so junky, it had like 10psi when revved and basically 0 at idle, just changing the oil it went to 25 at idle. 😂 These jeeps take a lot of abuse for sure and keep going.
One thing I did on mine is permatex has an orange gasket maker you apply to both sides of your exhaust gaskets for a better seal. I need to do the valve adjustment on mine as they are to noisy. Regarding your issue seems like it’s fuel related, is the fuel pump strong - do you have a glass bowel and can you watch it pump?
I almost bought that high temp permatex. If it fails again, that'll be the cheap fix. The fuel pump is relatively new and seems strong. There's always fuel in the glass bowl and you can see it moving. I haven't put a fitting on it to test fuel pressure but it looks like it's doing the job.
@@SunkCostGarage yea I was having some issues with my solex and it was fuel pressure related - the Carter w/o solved it for me .. one other thought are you running an oil bath or cartridge air filter? Could be why your carb was all gummed up if it’s sucking in oil. I got rid of the oil bath element and replaced with a wix cartridge within the OE air cleaner assembly - it breathes much better. Assuming your pcv valve is new/working?
Oh one thing I forgot to mention is that I ended up returning my joes motor pool w/o Carter and had my original one rebuilt by Peter debella. I could never get the joes motor pool one dialed in properly. I watched the g503 videos to try and adjust but made it worse .. Peter debella is a good source for good quality Willy’s parts, lots of NoS stuff as well. FWIW
PCV is new and working, not gummed up. Still running the oil bath air cleaner. It's a Donaldson style so you can't remove the element without destroying it, apparently.
I am thinking about sending my original WO to Sal at Vintage Jeeper to see if he can bring it back to life. I tried throwing a rebuild kit at it but it didn't work out.
How about oiling the bearings in the distributor ?
I did fill the oiler up and spin it around a bit before installing. My oil pump is clocked 180 degrees out though, so the oiler is just hanging down instead of on top... which I still need to fix.
Little moments like these are really precious. Ive never been able to drive my jeep on the road. I keep dreaming of the day I do, I only drove it on my farm, but now its been nearly 4 years since I took it apart to restore it. Maybe this year I'll get it back together.
You'll get there. There's a lot to it but if you can get back to it a little at a time, you'll get it done.
Love driving the 2A doing errands… makes it more enjoyable.
It's sometimes difficult in my area because of all the hills and baskets. The jeep only has 60 hp, and the drum brakes are kinda weak. But it'll do beer runs and the occasional fast food run close by.
The end result looks great, I really like the style that it has and like you said it really comes all together nicely with all the furniture you already had with the same style!
Nice work,cool looking table
Nice a new welding table! You could even mount an 80lbs anvil on one end too beat on jeep parts!!! 😇
I think this poor table has been through enough. Wish I had room for a welding setup though. That rusted jeep body will need some work eventually.
@@SunkCostGarage I'm just giving you a hard time! Keep up the good work we all love you're videos
I'm glad you saved it...and I'm glad that you didn't over restore it. It tells a story - including the water damage, staining, and dents and dings.
That’s an O *?it moment! Bet the mustang’s happy they weren’t just a little bit earlier.
They didn't even stop. I guess they had to go home and change pants.
I have the pipe jaws where can I buy the clip that goes on the with the screw. My doesn’t have those bolts on the side for the pipe jaws not even a hole
When I bought my replacement pipe jaws, they came with those spring clips. They were made to work with both the older C2's that had set screws, or the newer ones that used the spring clip style. You could try messaging the ebay seller I linked in the description to see if he can offer just the spring clips and screws, or you could try checking with Wilton. They still make the C2 bullet vise today and some parts are available.
Thanks for replying I’ll check both options see if I can find them
I got the same one unfortunately is missing the back cap . Is missing rotating base and the locks for the base . It came just like urs with a nut instead of the lock handles
I have always loved the smell of gear oil, it's automatic transmission fluid that makes me want to vomit.