"Abandoned" Dana 41 Rear Axle - Can it be saved? Part 6: Final Reassembly
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- Опубліковано 14 лип 2024
- Life has been crazy lately and priorities shifted a bit, but I found a little time here and there to finish dialing in the Dana 41 rear axle for the 1948 Willys CJ2A. (You can tell by the wide variety of shirts I'm wearing throughout this one. Many days of 30-45 minutes at a time.)
Shim packs were built, bearings were pressed on or hammered on, and backlash was set. The differential rebuild should be dialed in and complete. NOS axle shafts with new bearings and races are in. Axle bearing shims were figured out. Axle end play is set. Nearly everything is done. There are still a few remaining details to complete, though. The axle needs some paint touchups, for instance, after rattling around in the garage for six months.
All in all, this was an educational process. I learned the basics of a new skill despite all the struggles and despite some of the confusion with different revisions of the service manual having different backlash and end play specs. In the end, this rebuild seems to meet all the various requirements. The next axle rebuild should go a lot more easily.
As stated in the video, I am not a professional rebuilder by any means. This is my first axle rebuild and I'm still learning.
Here are the previous parts of this series if you missed them:
Part 1: • "Abandoned" Dana 41 Re...
Part 2: • "Abandoned" Dana 41 Re...
Part 3: • "Abandoned" Dana 41 Re...
Part 4: • "Abandoned" Dana 41 Re...
Part 5: • "Abandoned" Dana 41 Re...
Timestamps:
0:00 - Intro/Making Setup Bearings
1:52 - Trying to Set Pinion Bearing Preload
3:00 - Extremely Sketchy DIY "lathe" to Clean Up Axle Shaft Surfaces
5:00 - Pinion Sleeve Discussion/Issue (Mine is Redundant!)
7:43 - Differential Carrier Shim Setup And Initial Backlash
11:26 - Checking the Pattern (Repeatedly...) and Checking Ring Gear Runout
20:02 - The Descent Into Madness/Perfectionism
23:39 - Axle Shafts, Bearings, Shims, and Final Reassembly Begins
31:29 - Yoke Seal and Yoke
33:56 - Axle Shaft Installation/Bearing Races/Setting End Play With Shims
38:01 - Differential Gaskets! Some Vendors are Out of Spec (shock)
38:53 - Closing The Differential Up For Now
30:31 - Axle Rebuild Recap/Closing Remarks
#dana41 #cj2a #willysjeep #questionablelifechoices #willys #flatfender #jeepbuild #jeepwillys #basketcase #abandoned - Авто та транспорт
That's a hard job. You're doing a good cautious job. Run it!
Good stuff! Learning is everthing.
On the pinion seal, for the new style, the best tool I've found to install it is a used front wheel bearing race. It fits almost perfect on an inner wall and it won't bend the sides. About the yoke, since you can't find the correct rear one anywhere, I just use a front axle yoke and it makes a better dust/mud seal with the new style oil seal, but you don't use a felt like on the Dana 18, as there's no space for it. If you do use/find a correct rear yoke, you definitely want to use the original type seal, as the new style seal has a lip that goes out and will rub against the yoke. You are right that specs are all over the place depending on which manual you go by, I guess that it makes "close enough" all the more valid lol.
That is a very helpful tip, because I do still have a junk set of front wheel bearing races and possibly up to three more axles to rebuild as I have time. I had forgotten that they were on the shelf. I scoured the garage looking for a suitable object to tap the seal in but couldn't find anything in the scrapbinium box that fit right, so I tried to be careful with a hammer and got the result you saw in the video.
Nice video 👍 thanks for sharing!
So great to see a new video with lots of progress! You are not supposed to check the preload on the pinion bearings with the carrier on, as it'll create more drag. I actually set the preload on the pinion bearings first. If you have to change the pinion depth shims, then you change the exact same amount to the preload shims and you are done. Metalshaper does it like that too, except he uses the miller tool to get the depth shims right, to not change things later. Also if you change the preload it shouldn't affect the pattern unless you were waaay off and the pinion had up and down play. The backlash on ring and pinion is more about contact pattern, not tight or loose like on other settings. On really rare occasions, you actually have to go outside of the spec to get it right. Other than the pinion bearing preload, I'd say everything else is perfect and you should have a happy axle for many years to come!
Thank you for the positive comments as always. I *think* I got the preload right with the carrier out while using the setup bearings. I've had to stitch together so many clips here and there while leaving many others on the "cutting room floor" that I can't remember which versions made it into the final video. But I do remember that when I was doing the final assembly test with the outer pinion setup bearing, it was way too tight because I had left a single shim on the workbench. That's definitely one of the clips that made it into the final video. There are a couple of clips that I noticed were slightly out of order in the final video as well (oops, too late to fix now), but despite everything going on in life right now and my mind being a bit fried, I think the axle is as right as I can make it without showing my whole process, in order, in video form. I hate that it ended up being 40 minutes but that's the condensed version.
Despite having the instructions for the Miller tool in several forms, I think I missed something in my understanding of its use (though it seemed surprisingly straightforward). I do wish Metalshaper would do a video on how he uses it. The dial indicator gave me a number per the instructions, the pinion was a +0 pinion, yet when I was checking the pattern the first time it indicated that I did not have enough shims under the inner pinion bearing race. I ended up about +0.007 over that number. Perhaps this was one of those rare occasions where I had to go outside of the spec due to the aftermarket ring gear and pinion?
@@SunkCostGarage Well there sure is quite a bit in fixing an axle, so it's understandable why the video is long. Also you show all the mishaps along the way showing the true side of building things. But I'm sure the next axle should go by smoother. You can come across some oddities here and there, like with MB axles you can end up with weird amounts of shims since they weren't machined as perfect as later axles. It's weird that the measurement was off using the Miller tool, but hopefully next time it'll be spot on. Looking forward to the next video things are looking great!
Welp, I just checked my pinion seal "installation tool" and yes it is a front wheel bearing race, but the later LM501310 which is a little bigger than the the early 18520 that you should have. So it seems like you'll have to find something else, as the early race does not fit on the seal like the later one does.
the marks on the ring gear, from the factory a ring and pinion set are lapped in as a set. perhaps thats what you see? was hard to tell in the video. what happened to your pinion depth tool?
It's in the toolbox. I thought I understood how to use it and I came up with a shim pack based on the correct block for the CJ2A, but for whatever reason it was still off by a few thousandths and I ended up having to do some trial and error adjustments. I read a couple different manuals and the original instructions too. I'll have to try again with the next axle. Could have been due to the aftermarket pinion, could have been wear on the case, could have been operator error. I kinda wish Metalshaper would do an instructional video since he has one of the Miller W-99s too.
@@SunkCostGarage hmmm. Just my thoughts I’m not an expert with the setting up tools. Did your pinion have the height + or - etched in? That changes the pinion height to what they matched them at from the factory.
A few thousands off did you check the gear with marking compound after? It should have looked pretty damn good at that point.
I use a depth micrometer with home made base plates and typically I’m within a few thousands and usually can’t get the shim stack exact because combinations don’t allow.
The gear pattern is usually next to perfect at that.
Curious is all. I always liked that original tool for the period correct part.
The marking was hard to read but it seemed to show +- 0.00 when photographed and zoomed in. I thought it was odd to say +- 0.00 instead of just +0 but thats what it was. I checked the pattern many times and even with small adjustments (.003 for instance) it would move too far to the heel or too far to the toe. After many tries I got it centered on the teeth root to face and adjusted carrier shims from there to get the toe and heel patterns indicated in the video.
@@SunkCostGarage possible to have 0.00 I believe I had one Salisbury like that. After the pinion height adjustment did you set the backlash on the carrier immediately? Then check pattern? Sounds like you checked pattern right after setting pinion?
Right after the initial (wrong) depth setting I checked the backlash based on the initial shim pack, based on feeler gauges per the manual. It was (.008) from the start so I checked the pattern after that and found the indication that it was too far away from the ring gear. Added. 005 to the inner race and got it closer. Shuffled shims to add a net .002 and it was finally centered.
Ok is me or these owners of theses Willy’s are always repairing them I own one and I have never had problems. Either the Willy’s they own are junk or those UA-cam don’t know what there doing.
The one I got was not the most pristine example after 76 years and 86,000 miles (before the speedometer cable broke 30+ years ago when it was parked). It was used hard and put up wet, as they say. Transmission and transfer case full of water, synchronizers trashed, moisture and mud in the differentials, and of course wear and tear on the bearings. The rear axle that's on the Jeep right now growls a lot when coasting but it's drivable. Hopefully by the time I'm done with all this, it'll be as dependable as the one you have.
things that are wore out often still work.considering these jeeps were introduced in the 40's, I think its safe to say the majority of jeeps are wore out. the people that are working on them without a doubt have a better jeep.
Bravo, that was probably the longest video but how interesting. Looking forward to seeing installed with the suspension