Oh my god, guys... As it turns out, my points gap had inexplicably reset itself to 0 instead of .020 and that's why it was running like garbage. Follow up video soon...
I was about to suggest a vacuum gauge to start doing some more diagnostics. Glad you found it. I'm always glad I made the change over to the Pertronix Electronic Ignition. It's not "right" for that time frame but it makes life so much easier.
Really glad to hear you found the problem, did the rubbing block of the points wear off like last time? It's a simple thing to fix, yet it's very important to determine why would it do such thing, so it doesn't happen again and that's where the challenge lies. Really looking forward to the follow up video!
@@jeepinbanditrider I'm still gonna dust off the vacuum gauge and re-check the ignition timing. It's still idling too high and I don't suspect a vacuum leak (but will be looking for one all the same).
@@SunkCostGarage I have such a hard time seeing the timing marks with a light that I've been setting it with the vacuum gauge when I'm doing tuneups and have been really happy with it. Advance to maximum vacuum, then retard one inch of vacuum.
Good luck dialing it in! I’d check your voltage at the battery while not running, then take the positive on the volt meter and put it on the positive of the coil terminal when ignition switch is in the run position (engine not running). That might identify if there is an electrical decay from the battery to the coil (loose/damaged wire, ignition switch, etc.). If nothing else that checks it off the list!
13 degrees does sound a bit much for your elevation. I'd say around 10 should be better. But don't worry about it too much, that'd just cause loss of performance, but not the putter and hesitation you have. The main thing to check is plugs, coil and wires in that order. I know they are new, but maybe you got some bad ones. Also check the alternator, it could be sending surges and messing with the ignition.
I thought the timing might be slightly too advanced. The vacuum gauge made me set it there and I confirmed 13 degrees with a timing light, but that was with the other carb and before the valve adjustment. (And the vacuum gauge was generic off Amazon, so the quality/accuracy could easily be in question.) The plugs weren't gapped right before (they are now) but they all give a good strong blue spark. Wires are new and should be good, I wouldn't think one would be bad but I do have a spare set that I could swap on for science. The coil definitely tested good on a meter during that exhaustive troubleshooting video awhile back. The only other wild card is the alternator. It's putting out 14+ volts, which is good though it might be a little high. I haven't messed with it because it "works" but my dad did buy a rebuild kit for it early on in the project. We just haven't tried to do it.
Oh my god, guys... As it turns out, my points gap had inexplicably reset itself to 0 instead of .020 and that's why it was running like garbage. Follow up video soon...
I was about to suggest a vacuum gauge to start doing some more diagnostics. Glad you found it. I'm always glad I made the change over to the Pertronix Electronic Ignition. It's not "right" for that time frame but it makes life so much easier.
Really glad to hear you found the problem, did the rubbing block of the points wear off like last time? It's a simple thing to fix, yet it's very important to determine why would it do such thing, so it doesn't happen again and that's where the challenge lies. Really looking forward to the follow up video!
@@ginacoronel6872 There was some wear on the rubbing block but it wasn't totally gone. (Been there, done that, oops, lesson learned.)
@@jeepinbanditrider I'm still gonna dust off the vacuum gauge and re-check the ignition timing. It's still idling too high and I don't suspect a vacuum leak (but will be looking for one all the same).
@@SunkCostGarage I have such a hard time seeing the timing marks with a light that I've been setting it with the vacuum gauge when I'm doing tuneups and have been really happy with it. Advance to maximum vacuum, then retard one inch of vacuum.
You have come a long way!! I'm sure it is frustrating but it also nice to see the engine all black and restored by you... Step by step!!!
Good luck dialing it in! I’d check your voltage at the battery while not running, then take the positive on the volt meter and put it on the positive of the coil terminal when ignition switch is in the run position (engine not running). That might identify if there is an electrical decay from the battery to the coil (loose/damaged wire, ignition switch, etc.). If nothing else that checks it off the list!
13 degrees does sound a bit much for your elevation. I'd say around 10 should be better. But don't worry about it too much, that'd just cause loss of performance, but not the putter and hesitation you have. The main thing to check is plugs, coil and wires in that order. I know they are new, but maybe you got some bad ones. Also check the alternator, it could be sending surges and messing with the ignition.
I thought the timing might be slightly too advanced. The vacuum gauge made me set it there and I confirmed 13 degrees with a timing light, but that was with the other carb and before the valve adjustment. (And the vacuum gauge was generic off Amazon, so the quality/accuracy could easily be in question.) The plugs weren't gapped right before (they are now) but they all give a good strong blue spark. Wires are new and should be good, I wouldn't think one would be bad but I do have a spare set that I could swap on for science. The coil definitely tested good on a meter during that exhaustive troubleshooting video awhile back. The only other wild card is the alternator. It's putting out 14+ volts, which is good though it might be a little high. I haven't messed with it because it "works" but my dad did buy a rebuild kit for it early on in the project. We just haven't tried to do it.
possibly check fuel pump pressure ? maybe to low or to high just a thought
Frustrating for sure.