Відео

Yes, we are in a heat wave now in Georgia and I've seen signs of stress in my tomatoes, peppers, and cucumbers. The okra and sweet potatoes are loving it. Critical to keep everything watered now.

I'm not sure I understand that, but thanks for watching.

One great thing about gardening is that you can have much success using different kinds of fertilizer and mulch combinations. Thanks for watching.

It sounds like you are doing it right. I try to leave a lot of upper leaves to shade the tomatoes so I won't need the shade cloth. But you should trim any leaves that are getting matted, as that's not allowing air flow, as you stated. It also will allow bugs to hide easier. Thanks for watching.

Yea, we know the tomato hornworms are coming... gotta get them fast... Good to see you here again.

I had to put up a 7 foot fence to keep the deer out of my back yard. Otherwise you could spray some hot pepper sauce diluted in water that might stop some critters from eating. If it's bugs, then Sevin spray or liquid. Good luck.

Thank u

Thank you - have you tried planting bee attracting flowers around or near the garden?

Yes, if you are starting slips now, I'd put the starter pot under a tree so that it's only getting filtered light until the slips appear. I use bagged cow manure and 10 10 10 in the rows where I plant the slips, and only fertilize once during the growing season afterwards with 10 10 10 again. Usually in late June. Ii may be a little late to start sweet potatoes from a whole potato now for most parts of the country, but you still get nice leaves and leaf steams you can eat, but full sized potatoes... maybe not.

Thank you for watching... I'm getting ready to show this year's pole beans to do the same method...

I think it's the best way to grow tomatoes, and many other garden veggies. Thanks for watching.

@@TheBackGardenYardseen a video recently on planting peppers deeper than the soil line. Have you done this?

@@user-bt4oj1qk6p No need to plant them deep. I usually mound the soil up and maybe over the first 2 leaves (cotyledons). Then I usually mulch peppers as they are very sensitive to drying out. If you pile soil too high on the stem, it may cause the stem to rot.

@@TheBackGardenYard never mounded my peppers before but up to the cotyledons would give more stability to the plant. But staking could make that not an issue. When I plant at base level though I usually have to go back later and add more soil because top roots are starting to show. I'm growing in ground, no beds .

Yes, pine straw is a great mulch - I rake my neighbors yard and get it mostly free. However I have run out now, and it cost $5 a bale, but it's worth it to keep the plants happy.

It's a good question. Usually after the first early cucumber is pulled, the plant starts to make full sized cucumbers

@@TheBackGardenYard Thanks for clearing that up for me. Your channel is great!

I still use it because it really helps break up the hard clay soil in my garden.

That was a common comment about the video, so I did a part 2 and showed the cut potato again. Thanks for watching.

I've grown sweet potatoes for years, and I've let them run and usually I get lots of pink roots that look like they are starting, but very few eating sized potatoes. If you could link me to the channel where they showed mounds of potatoes from the runners, I'd like to see it. TIA

You are welcome, and thanks for the nice comment.

Love it - nothing beats a fresh cucumber, unless it's a fresh tomato! Thanks for watching.

Yea, many viewers had the same observation, so I covered it in a later video. Here's the link. ua-cam.com/video/_l9IjFukaVU/v-deo.html Thanks for watching

Yes, those are the same plants, with 2 weeks more growth now. This is why I made the video, to follow up on how this technique works. Thanks for watching.

No, I am taking off the lower leaves and letting the suckers grow out. Look at the June 9th update video to see how the suckers have grown out in 2 weeks and starting setting tomatoes.

@TheBackGardenYard that's impressivehow they filled out

Yes, I removed total of 10 cucumbers this morning from those 2 plants. Only 3 seemed like they got pollinated, and the rest were about to whither, in my opinion, so I removed them also. That stimulates the plant to keep producing. Now I have plenty of bees, so I believe I'll get hundreds of cucumbers from this row of cucumbers in the next 2 to 3 weeks.

No hornworms yet, but you better believe I look out for them daily as I'm getting a large crop of Better Boys and Early Girls tomatoes set on those plants. Thanks for watching.

Thanks for watching.

Nope, 100% Joro spiders - got em again this year.

I've never used that, but since it's a nitrogen only fertilizer, I believe it would work as well, with the same precautions for application.

We have these huge chestnut trees that bloom in May. They attract hundreds of bees, that will move into the garden after the blooms fall from the chestnut trees. My wife also has a huge flower garden. Thanks for watching.

I've never grown them on a trellis, however I believe it would work. That would solve the problem of them rooting on the wrong spots on the ground to take energy away from the initial planting site.

I'll link you to a recent video I made with hand pollinating Squash and Zucchini. Most garden plants the female blooms actually have the little fruits under the bloom, whereas the males just have a stem under the bloom. Thanks for watching. ua-cam.com/video/Ju5g-PdXKdg/v-deo.html

Well, they might, but they will spend the first month in the partial shade created by the corn plants. Then they will only have 2 months of the strong summer sun to grow the roots that are the potatoes, so I'm not expecting as big of a harvest as those that were planted in early May and will get over 4 months of full sunshine. Thanks for watching.

The base of the plant usually can only support about 3 vines, so I usually will remove the suckers from the suckers and have 3 vines that potentially reach the top of the fence. If you try to leave too many, they quit producing completely.

Yes, except I would cut the main vine at about 8 feet, and let the secondary vines come out, then trim those and the tertiary vines as they fill your space. The reason is that trimming the main vine will cause the secondary vines to produce more female pumpkins.

@@TheBackGardenYard so cut it at 8 feet and let the secondary grow out then cut them my space is very small 12ft by 2ft

@@shanesimpson8213 Yes, then you can let one secondary become the primary if that is all the room you have. The cutting of the primary end, stimulates production of fruit. Hopefully you will see the fruited buds appearing before you trim the secondary vines, so you can get a harvest.

@@TheBackGardenYard ok

I would think there are better products to control ants, than Sevin Powder. However, I think the Sevin sprinkled on the grass would be safe for pets to wander over after about 24 to 48 hours. To be sure, I would use it, then water it in, after 2 days. Thanks for the comment.

Probably the indoor temp was not warm enough. 80 degrees is the ideal sweet potato starting temp, imo. A "seed starting pad" would probably be needed next year. I would go ahead and plant the whole potato with slips into the spot you want to grow potatoes, fertilize with a sprinkle of 10 10 10 or similar fertilizer, and harvest whatever slips you can in about 2 weeks and plant. Sorry to hear about your slow starting... Thanks for watching.

Good idea. Just try to let the initial vine get about 6 feet before you top it, as it still may produce more cucumbers than the runners. But sometime the runners out produce the main vine 2 or 3 to 1, you just never know... Thanks for watching.

Absolutely you can use tap water. If it has been chlorinated though, let it sit out in a pan for 24 hours or more to allow the chlorine to evaporate, or boil it for 15 minutes, and let the cool for a few hours before soaking. Thanks for watching.

And thank you for watching.

Yes - The main vine will usually quit producing when it gets over 12 feet long on a trellis, but if I can get 4 suckers to run up 6 feet in addition to the main vine up 6 feet, then I get 30 feet of producing cucumber vines. So I always prune the tops when they reach the top of the trellis.

I did try grass clippings one time for mulch. They seemed to interact with the compost and manure I was using and I got a big moldy fungi growth. The tomato plants did ok though, but I haven't tried it since. But I always say, whatever works for you, works! Glad to hear you enjoy the garden, and I agree it's therapeutic...

Sometimes I will hand pollinate the cucumbers, but this year I have an abundance of male flowers and I see a few bees visiting them, so I'm letting the bees do it for me. Unlike the squash and zucchini, where the flowers are not as obvious, and the bees are not working them, I'm still hand pollinating squash and zucchini, and pumpkin squash. Thanks for the comment.

The squash bugs chew up the squash and cucumber leaves and anything else they can find. The cucumber beetles, look very similar to the stinkbugs and they will kill your plants by laying orange eggs on them, and then the nymphs and mature beetles suck the juice out of the stems and fruits, and inject a bacteria which kills the plants. I've found that a bit of sevin under the mulch will usually do the trick.

It's really not a problem. I use as little as possible, but it's something I've used for 30 years, and I'm still alive and well. It's either treat the insects with something or lose the crop. I've tried the dish soap spray, but it only kills the ones you see. Those that come crawling in at night still wear you out. Thanks for watching.