Відео

It's definitely possible, but there's too many variables. I'm not sure about the safety, useability and other things. I'll look into it in the future. Thanks for mentioning it!

It's a stock Creality 4.2.2 with the A4988 drivers. Unfortunately I can't control the current (to my knowledge.) I wish I never fried my SKR Mini E3 V3, but some things can't be changed. Would definitely love to put some HV drivers on this machine, perhaps BigTreeTech could help with that. An AWD Y axis upgrade was requested, combining that with some TMC 5160's would be insane. Thanks for the info too! It may prove useful in the future, I've never really looked into the details of controlling TMC drivers. Cheers

Some upgrades are really not worth it, but it was interesting to try and replace as much as possible with “upgraded” components. There’s only 3 or so components ever worth upgrading on an Ender 3, and they can be done much cheaper. Cheers

Thanks for watching! I could certainly do a deeper dive in the future, but it isn’t something I’m able to focus on currently. I’m more than happy to try and help you if I can; I used KIAUH to install Klipper screen, it didn’t work straight away but a reinstall made it work properly. I’m using a 5” screen from BTT using an hdmi to mini hdmi adapter (or micro not sure which one) everything is connected using the required adapters (usb C to A to Micro using a splitter for more ports.) Teaching tech did a video on a cheap esp screen I think it was, it’s a better value option but I haven’t delved into it just yet or checked compatibility but should all be fine. Cheers

@@TommyHoughton Thanks! I have changed the Y-axis carriage on my setup with a smaller cheap aluminum one from AliExpress and saved +- 100 gr, but I've seen they also sell cf versions for around 40 euro. Keep up the good work!

No, this video was just trying to “upgrade” as much as possible. My most recommended upgrades are a leveling probe, pei flex plate (g10 is also great) and higher quality hotend (although not entirely necessary) and a silent mainboard if not installed already. Most of the others are either for title or just unnecessary. Cheers

Your best bet would be to search AliExpress and/or Amazon, I purchased this kit from a local seller; I believe they combined a variety of parts, unless they ordered it custom from China. I spent some time trying to find another one but was unable to. I hope you find it. Cheers

Appreciate the help. Thanks a mill

Thanks Scott!

That’s true. I’m unable to tell what resin was used, but I’m sure it’s more than suitable for PLA. I will do testing in a follow up video once I have the parts machined. You’re machine sounds awesome, I’ve heard several comments that increasing the rigidity is highly important, I’ll definitely look into something similar. While bed slingers are fun to push, you’re right about the costs. I’d love to get Sovol’s new machine, but after shipping costs/or local markup it wouldn’t be feasible for me just yet. I’ll be converting my Ender 5 to CoreXY in July, so I’m hoping it holds up to my speed printing ambitions. I really appreciate your comment! Cheers

Yes. It has no effect on probes such as the bltouch, but it’s non conductive and won’t work with inductive probes such as beacon.

Thanks! It was a really fun project. Hopefully I can do something similar in the future. Cheers

@@TommyHoughton you open to suggestions?

Of course! I'm currently doing an Ender 5 upgrade video in July which might have some "spin-off" episodes, but a consistent series on another machine or such would be great.

@@TommyHoughton I was going to say look into mercury one.1 😂

Good timing! I've had several requests to do a Mercury 1.1, but it was out of my budget. I will be doing a CoreXY conversion though, and many other high performance upgrades. I'm allocating all my time and effort into this project/video, and I'm super excited. I just need to finish a review on a product and then I'll get straight to it. Cheers

Thanks! I’ve heard great things about the upgrade and considering what I’ve done so far, there’s not much point in leaving it out. I’ll write it down. Cheers

I’ll try do some experiments with it in the near future, I’ve never worked with nylon but I hear it’ll be a challenge. Thanks!

@TommyHoughton it's very challenging, it hates moving air. Liquid cooled extruder and heat lamps for temp stability are your friends. But the carbon fiber beds act like garolite beds on crack, plus they are very flat and smooth. I print with a .25" thick carbon fiber bed.

@@elvo_racing Thanks for the info!

Thanks, I’m glad you enjoyed it! I’ll definitely be replacing the gantry in the near future. Cheers

Good point, I didn't weigh the silicone heater, I just assumed it would be much lighter with the CF plate compared to stock. Once I get the bed frame and the bed properly machined, I'll do this project again with the feedback I've received. Thanks for your comment! Cheers

That’s awesome! How’s it working for you?

I look forward to the next stage of it! Cheers

Thanks for your comment! I had never encountered heat creep until I got this machine, it was an issue for many months. It’s mostly resolved now. I’m glad it happened though, it’s been helpful to learn about. Cheers

I likely did. The recommended shapers and values are noticeably different, and I'm not sure why that is. I held off on printing as I couldn't install the heater and the sheet wasn't up to spec, I plan on redoing this video but better with properly machined parts, hopefully in a couple of months. I'll also be using the feedback I've received, as It's quite a new area for me. I appreciate your input! Cheers

nova ?

It’s the Biqu H2 V2S Lite. I believe the nova is higher end. Cheers

Thanks for watching! The sheet is 2.5mm. I used this macro to test the max speed, however, I got the process a little confused with a video with MirageC, where he made a Gcode that increases the acells over time. I'll share that video as well as it was very helpful. ellis3dp.com/Print-Tuning-Guide/articles/determining_max_speeds_accels.html ua-cam.com/video/AqlP5ar3LkE/v-deo.html All the best! Cheers

I've been meaning to purchase one, but local imports have a decent markup and shipping costs from overseas are too high to justify currently. That's a good point with the calibration. I really can't wait to build/order a corexy. I'll be doing a CoreXY conversion soon on my Ender 5, so I'm hoping it's as good as expected. Thanks for your comment! Cheers

I appreciate your support! I'll keep working on improving the little mistakes here and there... Thanks!

Good idea! I might even have some in storage. Thanks!

Thanks for sharing! That's quite interesting about the micro-vibrations, I've been working on some other lightweight parts, so that could be an important variable when testing. I'll also do research on improving the rigidity for future projects. Thanks!

Yep, you can still heat a CF bed

It sure is! I purchased a nice silicone heater to do that, but unfortunately the cf sheet was too small. When I get the sheet machined to the right size, I’ll install the heater and test the performance. Cheers

No it has to be a cf made with high temp epoxy and even then at ABS bed temps would still most likely make it warp. Do some research.

@@Tinkerer5888 Good point, I’ll look into getting a better sheet. I was assuming they were all relatively similar. Thanks for mentioning it.

I’ll hopefully be doing a similar conversion later this year!

Yeah I kinda want to do it but I need to make a H2 v2s lite adapter for it to work. But keep up the work

I'd absolutely love to do AWD on the Y axis, I've been a bit intimidated to do that though. It could make an excellent video, I'll try and reach out and see if LDO would be keen to help! There's definitely room for improvement, the machine was wobbling quite a bit, and I'm pretty sure a few screws are loose somewhere. Once I get the sheets machined I'll refine everything. Thanks for your support as always!

Thanks so much for mentioning it! I'll try to do something similar again in the future, it's a topic I'm passionate about.

I had some issues at the start, it’s alright now, but I had a bunch of stripped screws among other things.

I had the same problem 😂

The mic was barely out of frame and pointed at me, so I believe between 6-11 inches, which I heard was recommended. I always try to keep it as close as possible. I don’t remember where it was mounted so I can’t be fully accurate. Hope this helps. Cheers

I appreciate the feedback! I’ll do my best to improve over time. Cheers

Sorry about that! I was aiming for more of an entertainment approach, but I should have been more onto it with the information presented, I’m working on making that better for next time, I’ve already had a couple of people point this out. If you have any suggestions, they’re more than welcome. Cheers

Thanks! I really appreciate your support 😁 I’m looking forward to your next projects! All the best.

Sorry to hear about the issues, I’ve had my fair share of frustration over the years. I haven’t noticed any major degradation of quality due to the wireless setup; I don’t have studio headphones, but if the quality was affected enough, I would have noticed by now. I’ve had the mic plugged directly into my cameras for a while, the two biggest factors (especially the ones making my first review the way it was) are distance to subject (I believe for people the recommendation was 6-11 inches or so, which I didn’t do) and also having the mic on its regular mode (I think it’s just on) and not the 150hz mode which is the furthest the switch can be moved. I had this setting chosen originally which really affected the audio, I believe it’s for “extreme weather” or situations where audio quality can be sacrificed but it’s better than nothing. (I haven’t researched this in a while though so please check it out if possible.) I use a cheap xlr to 3.5mm adapter for compatibility, I highly doubt it affects anything. Cheers

Thanks for the tips! I’ll be more careful with both from now on. I have a bad habit of lighting everything as much as possible instead of being strategic. Cheers

Thanks! I’m glad you liked it.

Thanks! I’m looking forward to your next video!

Thanks for mentioning it! Learning the correct tweaks to improve the sound took some time, but I’m glad it works. The most important thing I learned the hard way, is to get the best possible sound quality, you need the mic as close as possible. I’m still super pleased with the system now that I understand more. Cheers

It was a 3.5 week total project including planning, building, filming and editing. Most of the days weren’t fully utilised. It felt efficient, but I wish I could have executed some areas better, and filmed more as well. I’m sure the chance will occur again. Cheers

Thanks so much! It's possibly the most time-effective way of using AI, I can only imagine how many months the programming would have taken me otherwise. Cheers

I almost did just that! I thought a “bit” of going to a hardware store and asking permission to have it roll around would be hilarious. Maybe with V2. I’m sorry to say no lasers or speakers are planned though haha. It’s quite a funny little thing, I’m pleased I was able to go from a potentially out of my skill range idea, to bringing it somewhat into reality. It helps for future projects definitely. All the best with yours! I’ve got one more electronics video planned, then two exciting 3D printing ones. One involves carbon fibre although if it goes well maybe both will haha. Thanks Ryan! I promise to test your kit out this year. Cheers, Tommy.

Thanks Scott! I had a moment in the midst of the project, wondering if I would have to cancel it. I’m proud to say I pressed forward and succeeded. With the explanation part, I almost didn’t add it in, super glad I did though! I’ll provide more context in my future videos, it definitely adds to it. All the best with your next one! I’m super excited for it. Hope your trip went/will-go well. Cheers