I Upgraded a Broken 3D Printer!
Вставка
- Опубліковано 13 чер 2023
- It's so much faster now, and will be even better in the next video.
Once again I made a few mistakes in this video, and if you have any suggestions or feedback, please leave it in the comments below, I read them all.
#3dprinting #3dprinter
Music From ►► elements.envato.com/
Business Contact ►► tommy@tommyhoughton.com
Film Gear Used:
Camera: amzn.to/3WL1S0o
Lens1: amzn.to/3I8ZM6C
Lens2: amzn.to/3PVwVo9
Light(300W): nanliteus.com/nanlite-fs-300-...
LavalierMic: amzn.to/3Wx5nHZ
ShotgunMic: amzn.to/3FXMwyJ
DesktopMic: amzn.to/3HFxCza
Tripod: amzn.to/3hQUVME - Наука та технологія
You seem to have a problem with damp filament. Here's how to fix that: Put the filament roll in a box (the one it came in?) with a pack of silica. Heat up the bed of your printer to about 70C. Put the box with the filament on the bed and leave it there for a few hours. Dirt cheap filament dryer. Works for me!
You could actually take out the z stop, because the ABL probe acts as a z stop. You could then use the z stop for something like a filament run out sensor
Love it, I have a similar printer that I am fighting with. driving me nuts but good to see your progress.
Best of luck with your machine! Thanks for watching.
"the bltouch has to be moved slightly to compensate"
*throws 15mm spacers*
great video man, I love it I would swap that extruder for something like a bmg or the hole carriage from triangle-labs for the mk3 with the bmg already on it
Thanks! Currently figuring out how to mount a new extruder and also fix up a few of the issues. Swapping the whole carriage is actually a viable option, I’ll look more into it.
This was fascinating, Tommy! Great video - very well presented! I look forward to Part 3! 😀
Thanks Auntie!
I used to like videos like that but not for 3D Printers. Buying something broken, fixing it, and pushing limits of it. You're best in this at 3D Printers! keep the good work up
Part 2👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍 You the best youtuber
Nice work, edited together well. That little spacer for the volcano setup might be causing some of the clogging issues. Seems like you would potentially get a build-up in the area for the Allen key, especially if it's right next to the nozzle, and create excess drag on the filament. I would switch back to the regular block and retune. Good luck with it. I look forward to an update on your progress.
Thanks! I did have to uninstall and reinstall it a few times until it performed better, unfortunately one of the adapters stripped and had to be replaced. It’s working well now but I in the future I’ll use a single nozzle.
Your great, I dont know why you dont have more subscribers then you have. Your editing is great but can be better 😃😃
Thanks! I’m always trying to improve my editing.
aye nice, has been waiting for this video. wait wtf considering the amazing quality you deserve wayyyy more subscribers:)
Thanks! I intend to keep improving, I must admit this video should have gained more attention but working on the machine took a bit longer than expected.
Was excited to see this pop up in my recommended, loved part 1 and loved this part 2, hoping we get a part 3.
Thanks! I’ll make sure I release part 3 once the upgrades have arrived.
I think I said this before, but look at your current v6 heat sink, and look at the prusa specific v6 heat sink; there is supposed to be a fitting at the top to hold the PTFE tube in place, and on the prusa specific v6 this fitting is inset into the heatsink. the v6 heat sink you currently have is made to have a PC4 straight-through fitting, which will not fit in the current extruder parts. Until you fix that by replacing that heat sink you are going to have occasional jams you'll need to clear, as the PTFE tube will be pushed out from the pressure of the plastic, creating a gap that molten plastic will get into and cool. The all-metal heat break may or may not help with this.
For comparison, a similar kind of jam can happen on the (stock or V2) Ender 3 if the bowden tube is not fully re-seated back down in place after removing it, or if the PC4 fitting on the hotend wears out or breaks, which I call a "bowden-gap" jam, as it creates a gap molten plastic will back up into and partially or fully cool in, causing the jam. Since the v6 this printer came with is actually meant for a bowden setup, it suffers from this problem as well, especially since it has no PC4 coupling.
For dimensional accuracy, you'll probably need to under go step/mm calibration, which you can find tutorials and calculators for (this will probably also help with extrusion). Gcode command (assuming conventional rep-rap derived code) is M92 X## Y## Z## E##, where you only enter whichever motors you're adjusting; use M503 in console to find the current values before adjusting anything.
Motors being hot probably means the motor current is too high, which can be a fire hazard! Adjust using the potentiometer, or if you're using TMCs the current may be controlled over firmware. When using TMCs on my printer on a MKS Gen L 2, the default of 800mA was way too high and my motors actually ended up melting some parts before I caught it.
To improve part cooling, designing a new cooling shroud is probably advisable, even if you only have PETG to start.
I have a v6 heatsink on another machine that may have the correct fitting, I'll take a look at it. If not I'll order a few for the future. I have also considered removing the top extruder part and turning the machine into a bowden system, enabling me to "easily" use other extruders and remove weight from the tool head, although I am still weighing up the pros and cons of this. Klipper uses rotational distance instead of steps/mm, so I've been struggling with that, but will revisit it again soon. I've been working on adjusting the vref for the stepper motors, and that seems to have helped, I am still figuring out how to adjust the current, but will tune that once I can. I don't have any PETG or ASA/ABS to print a new fan shroud, but I do have a pla composite material which may work for the time being, I'll figure out the printing once I have actually designed a new part once I have finalised the hotend components. Thank you for your previous comment as well, it's been helpful for finding out more information about this machine and how to improve it.
@@TommyHoughton I've run shrouds printed in PLA - they work fine. They can deform a bit if you don't have the cooling fan running and they are close to the hotend, but they still work fine - even if a bit melted.
@@TommyHoughton Also, stick with the direct drive extruder. Bowdens can work, but require a lot of retraction to prevent stringing. I suspect the little pancake stepper on the direct extruder and a genuine E3D V6 all metal Hotend (not the volcano) and 0.4mm Nozzle will be the sweet spot for a bed slinger like that.
Thanks for the suggestion, I was considering converting the machine to bowden to reduce weight and because I couldn’t find any stls for different extruders, but now I’ll stick with the direct drive and keep researching.
That PTFE tube is what`s giving you troubles. It can move up under pressure and lets filament form clogs between it and the heatbreak. With that N17 you should have plenty of power even without gearing. Afterall Prusa Mk3 uses the same setup. Glad you switched to Klipper firmware. Its miles ahead in terms of speed and ease of use compared to Marlin. Good luck! Waiting on pt. 3
Thanks for your comment! I’m hoping that the all metal heat break will help with this issue, I tried cutting the ptfe to the perfect length but I’m unable to tell if It’s helped or not. Klipper has been working well so far, except for the learning curve which I’m still working on, I look forward to trying out more of its features. The machine is printing a lot better now, however there is still much to do.
I have 3 printers which no longer extrude. Pretty certain it's the hot ends in all cases, I have
E3D Clone (PTFE)
E3D Light (PTFE)
Ender 3 (PTFE)
Cheapest upgrade is a chinese bi metallic heat brake for the Ender 3, medium cost is a slice engineering heat brake for the Ender 3.
I suspect the real solution is splashing out on a genuine E3D V6, or a Genuine Micro Swiss.
I’ve received a lower end bi metallic heat break, so I’ll be testing to see how it performs. I definitely want to try out the slice one in the future. I’ve got my eye on multiple hotends that I’d like to test, so hopefully that’s something I can make a video on. Best of luck with your machines.
Great video! Last week i was so inspired by your first video on this series that i bought a super broken printer called Stella 2 to fix and hopefully give to my nephew. The printer was around 15 bucks (80 reais in Brazil).
I'am very curious however about your mini green 3d printer. Could you do a video about it! I really love small printers!
Keep the great work
"oh, where is my finger at" - I have totally done that before when filming and thought "well that's embarasing" haha. The camera screen is deceptive!
It sure is! I might get a camera monitor in the future, to prevent all the retakes lol.
Clogs were most likely caused by insufficient hotend radiator cooling, poor quality heat break or both (that's my guess). Too much retraction will also cause it - for direct drive is should be around 1-2mm depending on filament type. I'd just get rid of this cheap V6, but since you already ordered a new heat break I will suggest using a thermal compound when installing it (make sure it's suited for high temp). As for the fan a high CFM version is advised.
The extruder motor is skipping most likely because it's not getting enough power. If you have a multimeter and your stepper drivers allow that you can increase the voltage value, but be careful not to short anything or set the voltage too high.
Not sure if swapping to a Volcano and CHT clone nozzle was the right call, since you're not printing nowhere near fast enough to be limited by the V6 setup and it introduced more problems like a lack of parts cooling and most likely cold pulls will be a lot tougher to execute correctly.
Looking forward to part 3!
Thanks for the tips! I believe the hotend fan is finally getting sufficient cooling after swapping the fan numerous times, but I have my doubts that the cheap heat break that’s currently installed is helping, once the all metal one arrives I’m hoping it really improves things. I’ve taken note of the retraction settings and have been tweaking them over the last few prints. I’m not sure what the extruder stepper motors current is set too, but during the video the vref was all over the play, I believeI have brought it down to 1v and it’s working more consistently. I plan on adding loads more part cooling so I can try and push this machine as much as possible.
@@TommyHoughton Cheap all-metal (stainless steel) heat breaks actually increase the possibility of clogs and printing PLA might be even impossible. Bi-metal heat breaks are way better, but it's important to understand they need sufficient cooling and they need to transfer heat to the radiator as efficiently as possible.
As for the extruder motor - as long as it's not too hot to touch during printing and it's not skipping steps it should be fine. If it's too hot it can actually melt printed parts
Love the series 🎉
Love the videos. It’s been said in the comments but you don’t use the Z end stop when you use a ABL sensor.
Yep, I’ve been meaning to uninstall it.
Was excited to see this since I watched last video!
I really appreciate it, thanks!
great video, you have some good experience with printers, and you're from NZ which gives extra points lol.
keep it up man.
Thanks!
Nice job!
Thanks!
After all those clogs and troubleshooting I'd be EXTREMELY angry and tired
I completely understand that. In the end the satisfaction was well worth it for me. However now my other machine is clogged and I can’t be bothered to fix it haha. Thanks for your comment.
3:00 the ABL sensor smashes into the bed
Yep, I readjusted the mount after that, and that fixed it.
Brrrooooo just get a proper volcano nozzle the jam is more than likely the filament getting mangled in the hex portion of the volcano spacer.
I’ve already ordered one, it’ll arrive soon.
Why the heavier motor on X Gantry? The slim one have the suficient power and weight less = more speed without ringing
I thought a stronger stepper would help. In part 3 I upgraded to a bmg extruder and swapped back to the pancake motor, which is giving excellent results.
@@TommyHoughton perfect! I have a slim motor and bmg clone on 2 enders 3 , working perfect
very innovative
can you not just use the bltouch as a z endstop? works that way with inductive probes etc too
I did in a future episode, it’s been working great
I’m curious about how much the printer costs after all the upgrades/fixes you’ve had to make. Mind sharing (excluding the pi for klipper) with the amount of time spent?
Good question, the stepper motor was a spare part, but assuming it was new and all the other components were too (some more than others) the current total including pei bed is under 200nzd, with the time spent being over 20H. Roughly.
You did all these changes and never did a PID autotune? Also, if you see a bulb on the end of your filament after a jam, that means you have a gap where your ptfe tube is not all the way down butted up against your heat block. This is a common issue if its not an all metal hotend.
Perhaps I forgot to mention, but I did an auto pid tune in klipper which really helped with the inconsistent temperature. I’ve also cut the ptfe tube to the perfect length where it goes all the way down to the heatbreak, and to the top of the printed part until it can’t anymore. Since this video I’ve had one clog in the machine but no other issues. Once the all metal heatbreak arrives I’m hoping that all of these issues will be completely solved.
@@TommyHoughton All metal should help drastically. only thing I am not sure about is that weird 2 part setup you used in the volcano block. Does CHT not make a Volcano length in that splitter nozzle? If you still have jams after your all metal upgrade, I suggest you buy a standard volcano length nozzle and test that compared to that 2 part CHT nozzle setup just in case that is causing them. With all those parts in the filament path, that can cause filament to squish outwards and fill the gaps causing jams. I also recommend you double check your retraction settings. If you used the Ender 3 profile for slicing, your retraction length will be way too long (if you didn't change it). Bowden setup you need between 3-7mm but with direct drive you only need between .3-1mm retraction length. Jams and under extrusions can be a clear indication of high retraction length. Good luck
@@user-lx9jm1wo3h I created a new profile for this machine, it’s currently running around 1mm retraction. I’ve seen a (non genuine) volcano cht In similar design to the one I’m running currently, so I will perhaps order a couple. I also swapped the adapter and cht for a standard volcano nozzle when testing which performed similar but is of course a simpler assembly.
@@TommyHoughton I see. Looks like you are doing well with your troubleshooting, and exploring your options then. Only other thing I can really think of is to make sure your nozzle is actually reaching the temps the printer is reading back to you. Each thermistor has a temp table that displays temps based on resistance of the thermistor. Its not the most accurate way to do it, but if you have a laser thermometer you can usually get a rough idea if your temps are close by pointing it at parts of the heatblock. proper way is to drop a probe down in the nozzle but that can cost more money to try out.
@@user-lx9jm1wo3h I’ve got a cheap laser thermometer that may work for this, I’ll try it out and see what the results are.
Great video but if you try not to move the camera so much you wouldn't have the focus problems.
Thanks! I’m working on being a bit more refined.
Why didn't you buy a ceramic hotend like the chc ?
Unfortunately it runs on 24v and the printer is currently 12v, otherwise I would have ordered one.
please remove the z switch, you dont need it with the bltouch
Will be doing that, currently it requires removing the x axis gantry so I’m waiting a bit.
This Jack Harlow from high school
😂
Is your z-limit-switch precise enough? According to Maker's Muse there is a better one: ua-cam.com/video/oX4up29xUuw/v-deo.html but your doesn't look bad either
It seems to be fine, this machine is pretty well levelled and first layers turn out good, however the dual lead screws need alignment every now and then. I’ll be monitoring it long term.
I have stock dual z-limit-switch on my Anycubic Mega Pro (klipper) which helps keeping it straight without any intervention. I like your limit's mount. It's what I was missing to upgrade mine switches.
I’ve been trying to figure out the config changes for dual limit switches on my machine, currently I’m just using the bl touch and I’ll revisit it in the future.
Great video! Last week i was so inspired by your first video on this series that i bought a super broken printer called Stella 2 to fix and hopefully give to my nephew. The printer was around 15 bucks (80 reais in Brazil).
I'am very curious however about your mini green 3d printer. Could you do a video about it! I really love small printers!
Keep the great work
That’s great to hear! Please let me know how it goes. I was working on a video for the mini printer, but I ran into some critical issues that I don’t have time for right now. The motors are the biggest issue, as they don’t have enough strength to move the gantry and they ended up overheating and melting the wires off. There’s also a lot of fiddly small parts that are annoying to work with. The printable files are accessible and I have most of the components, so I hope to one day revisit it!
@@TommyHoughton I'm currently waiting for an Arduino Mega to come from China (delivery is 2 months) and i'm thinking of replacing the completely rusty linear bearings for some 3d printed bushings (i hope it work for some time).
About the mini printer, i think i can imagine how hard it is to work on, being so tiny. I hope we see it working some day!
@@gabrielarcanjo482 best of luck! The 3d printed bushings should work for a decent amount of time. I also made a short a few months ago on the mini printer when I got it moving for the first proper time, however not much has happened since then.
ua-cam.com/users/shorts3D7bWVh08cU?feature=share
@@TommyHoughton Just a thought that came to my mind right now. As the printer is very small and doesn't move that much, it should be possible to mount the hotend fan to the printer's frame and aliviate the weight that the z axis motor has to lift.
@@gabrielarcanjo482 that’s a great idea, I’ll also do some research on a smaller hotend assembly, that could be a big factor. Thanks for the suggestion!