I’ve uninstalled the mains bed for safety concerns, I’ll consider reinstalling it in the future once I receive proper parts. I appreciate everyone’s feedback on it. I’d like mention that this videos purpose was to try and upgrade “everything” not upgrade the most impactful parts. It’s not the best performance per dollar, there are more videos out there covering what the best value upgrades are. I can always recommend a leveling probe, mainboard upgrade (I’ve heard good things about kevinakasam’s dual z belt mod) and a hotend and extruder upgrade. There’s plenty to choose from, I’ll try and do a deep dive (with justification) on the topic in the future.
@@dorito24856 I’m not sure why that would happen, I’ve done several mainboard upgrades and extruder upgrades with minimal issues. Some fixes I’d look into would be E-steps for all axis, in case they got modified, and motor v-ref and current in case you’re missing steps. I hope you find the solution. Cheers
I was about starting upgrading my ender 3 pro, then i realized i would have spent almost the same of purchasing a Bambu A1, with 100 hours tuning more and risk of not having good results. So i sold my ender 3 to a beginner for some euros and purchased the Bambu A1. But you are a hero, you didn t give up.
The A1 is an excellent machine, for printing > Tinkering it’s way better than the Ender 3. I’ll keep upgrading this machine till I break it! I wish you the best with your videos and projects! Cheers
It is, I am very careful around it, any mistakes could certainly be dangerous. I’ll be working on making it safer in my own time. Crimp connections are used when possible, however a thermal fuse is a recommended add on. I’ll look into it as I’d like to know as much as I can to increase knowledge and reduce risk. Cheers
@@TommyHoughton Well, the first thing would be to have a really good clean surface for it to stick to. You should remove all that old insulation foam before sticking it on the bed for starters. Next would be insulation for those wires to prevent them from shorting out. TBH though, with such a small bed, 24v should be more than enough to heat up quickly in my opinion. On larger beds with thicker aluminum plates is when AC is really necessary.
@@wrxsubaru02 Good tips, I’ll look into some more cable sheathing/covers for my wires as I’m all out and it’s useful stuff. For a 235mm bed it’s not necessary using a mains heater, I just wanted to add it for the title and was a food excuse to try out. There’s a video I would like to do in the next few months where I install a silicone heater on a cabin fiber sheet as a lightweight alternative to an aluminium one, will hopefully be interesting for high speed printing on bedslingers.
I have a similar 220v 500w bed heater which is 300mm^2. Once I had the mcu on without the rpi powered. The mcu turned the bed on by itself and kept it on at 100% for a few minutes. I heard hissing sound from the other room, came back to find that my bed heater was about to melt my printer. Smokes were coming off and the heater almost detached from the bed. But its working fine even after that incident. I never operate it from far after that.
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It's nice to look at a fellow maker that has no end-stops on creativity and fear of poking a multimeter in there. Keep up the good work.
I have an Ender 3 pro that has been gathering dust, I have considered just selling it and putting the money toward a BambuLabs printer as I am tired of the headaches. I do prefer open source firmware though. Please let me know what you suggest. Thank you for the video.
I have friends who swear by the Bambulab’s reliability and quality, while I do not have personal experience with their machines, I can recommend going with them for less trouble. I’ve been tempted several times when my machines decide to break. I’d be willing to make the sacrifice of open source firmware for a system like Bambulab’s. Thank you for your question and for watching! Cheers
I did something similar to my Ender 3 Pro. Thing doesn't look remotely the same. Dual Z Axis, LED light bar, Sprite SE extruder, Spider hotend, Nebula pad interface, insulation under the bed, different springs, blue metal level screws, CR Touch auto level are all the purchased upgrades. Printed upgrades include a mount for the Nebula gyro sensor, bed handle, took drawer, Nebula pad cradle, Nebula Camera mount, rail covers, rail caps, cable clips, power supply fan vent, scraper holder, and other bits and bobs. The next upgrade is just gonna be another printer (maybe a Bambu)
That’s awesome! I hope to keep upgrading my machine until it’s unrecognisable, or at least till there are no stock parts. All the best with your next machine and upgrades!
Hey I did the same dual Z mod I recommend getting a belt to keep the motors synchronized. the 616mm is a little tighter than the 618mm but I use the 618 on my printer and it works perfectly. or you could do what I did on my V2 and add a 5th stepper motor driver to the stock motherboard.
@@TommyHoughton my z axis was a nightmare with the screws. i did duel z with and without the belt and just had constant issues with the z axis. i found mod that makes the z axis all belt driven and it works amazing. not saying is better than properly installed lead screws but was fun to do and looks awesome + fixed my issues.
@@ItsBoyRed could be….i fried my first SKR mini’s fuse right out of the box new. It crackled then popped, and I thought I killed the board but just grabbed an auto fuse assortment kit to replace it, that’s why I suggested it.
There’s a little transistor that has some marks around it, I believe it’s the one that handled fan power. I bridged the connections on the fan itself which made its way to the mainboard. I got a rough model number but not the most helpful. I was rather careless which was my fault.
I’ll try that today and give it a shot, I wasn’t able to heat anything after the short, so I’ll give the mobo power and that required stuff with a new fuse. Will let you know
What you can try for the speedbenchy is actually remove the rubber feet and pit it on small stiffer legs, for some reason the vibration of the printer and the bed can cancel each other out because the bed doesn't stop abruptly because the printer itself moves with it
Interesting, thanks for sharing that! I’m planning on doing more performance upgrades to the Ender 3 later this year, so I’ll try remembering this. Cheers
I was considering it, but I couldn’t find a good kit at a suitable price. I would have preferred it over the x axis for sure. I could have done it diy, but I was worried I wouldn’t be able to do it and the other upgrades in time. Cheers
Thanks! I really appreciate It! If you're referring to the "pull object from screen" trick, I've only seen it once or twice ever, it's quite a fun one though. I'm learning some new ones for my next video, It's going to be awesome. Cheers
Nice upgrade :) At this point though i think its best to put that money on a better printer to start with... except for one thing: you learn a lot doing all those upgrades :) Nice videos and well made mate
Thanks Simon! You’re absolutely right on that, there’s diminishing returns after a while. I certainly learn a lot with the mistakes I make 😄 In July I’ll be releasing my video “Building The Fastest Ender 5 Pro” with a corexy conversion, LDO speedy motors, dragon ace hotend, auxiliary cooling and more. I’m extremely exited to begin; I’ve just started scripting. I’d be honoured if you checked it out in the future! Thanks so much for commenting :D It made my day. All the best with your projects! Cheers, Tommy
Love your vids bud. It’s been super inspirational to get back into making my ender print better. I did just order the sprite head just in case as it is an employee. So I can’t have it down too long. I don’t need it super fast I just want it to perform a little faster. I don’t expect it to perform well as a bambu. But be quick enough
@ oh yeah. When I first got my ender first part to upgrade was the part cooling. They can bridge awesome with the right setup. I’ve seen some wild things. The thing is. They are so basic. Like barebones. It’s like it’s meant for u to just grade into a badass machine. The sprite head is a nice touch though.
@@TommyHoughton If it makes you feel better I've dumped thousands into printers that are now worth next to nothing. Mostly because it was fun to do. Now I just like to print and not just parts for the printers 😀
No, this video was just trying to “upgrade” as much as possible. My most recommended upgrades are a leveling probe, pei flex plate (g10 is also great) and higher quality hotend (although not entirely necessary) and a silent mainboard if not installed already. Most of the others are either for title or just unnecessary. Cheers
I modified my Ender 3 V2 Neo with linear rods on Y, linear rails on X, double Z that is going to go for belted Kevinakasam, and Titan + V6 extruder with CHT nozzles and 5015 6000rpm blower. I think that with Marlin MRiscoC with Input Shaping, Linear Advance, Junction Deviation, the best compromise for quality and speed is 150mm/s for cheap filaments and 4000mm/s² acceleration. I obtain near 37min benchy and I consider myself satified. For speed the only way is a CoreXY but you'll need also hyper PLA or new hyper PETG now near 20-30% more expensive than traditional filaments.
@@TommyHoughton I've a video. The tool head is the Kingroon Titan with E3D V6 modified. Into my Thingiverse I've the Y rods's mod. It needs some time of tuning. So it's not good to search for faster speed but for good balance and tune for it. My target is something similar to a V3 SE that still uses Marlin. ua-cam.com/users/shortsr4AwSeom8TA
@@TommyHoughtonI think this person was talking about the enderxy kit you can use to convert your printer into a corexy because bed slingers can only go so fast
@@spectrasouls Gotcha, thanks for explaining. I’ll be doing a CoreXY conversion hopefully in the near future. I’m talking to Ryan Sauer about getting one of his kits as it’s quite interesting. Cheers
That was a quick reply I got myn from belt3dprinterkits and it works pretty good it was a fun project I mean not convential because why not just buy a better printer but it was more of the journey for me than the destenation
Not on a build plate smaller than 300mm. The thick beds that Voron's, RatRigs, large 3D printers (or 12v ones) could really take advantage of a 220v bed. The costs of a good quality relay, thermal fuse, mounting hardware and bed itself do add up, but they are very powerful. On anything Ender 3 sized, it's not worth it. Cheers
As someone recently introduced to 3D printing, I've been considering getting a printer for home. Would the ender 3 be a good investment? I am under the impression its an older 3d printer thats been around for awhile, but I do like the idea of "upgrading" or tinkering and fixing parts on it myself if I have to. I've seen alot of youtubers use bambu printers, but they seem pretty pricey as well.
I’ve heard good things about the Ender 3 V3 SE, it’s one of Creality’s new Ender 3’s with most of the upgrades installed. (I haven’t tried it yet but I’m going based off what I’ve seen) As good as an old Ender 3 would be to get started, it can be frustrating to mess around with, and it lacks a lot of modern features, especially the original. You’ll end up spending more to bring it up to speed. There’s fun in doing it, but it’s never the most economical path. There’s a ton of information online, so most problems will probably have been encountered and solved. But for someone getting into printing, I’d look at getting one of these modern machines with most of the upgrades already installed and especially one that’s proven itself. It’ll make it easier to tinker as well having a machine that actually works. I’ve heard great things about Bambu’s machines, but can’t justify the cost yet either. I’d have a look around at machines released in the last year or so and try find user reviews as some machines aren’t really that good. Cheers
beginner 3d print nowadays should get a bambulab a1 mini, sub 400$ without their fancy multi filament system, theres no tinkering with the machine, just print, the machine works. If later on, you get interested, the ender 3 is a good base for an upgrade project where you get to tinker with your machine as much as you want. with the years I came to liking printing without tinkering much better than maintaining my printer alongside printing, so I am very happy of bambu's arrival on the market.
a few notes here. 1. you should really use a z-motor bracket that uses all 4 motor holes 2. the top parts on the lead screws will overconstrain them. I don't really add them but at least 3 of my printers came stock with something akin to those.
Thanks for the tips! I’ve heard before that the “Z-guides” or whatever they’re called could cause problems but I think it was in the long run. I’ll look more into it. Cheers
It was primarily for fun, being able to make a video on it helps recuperate some of the costs. There are limits to how economical it is to upgrade a machine. I would love to get a machine such as the Ender 3 V3 SE or Sovol SV07 as they have so many features at competitive prices, but shipping costs bring the prices up too much for me too justify at the moment. Cheers
@@TommyHoughton Thank you! I need it! I did the physical part of upgrading to a 400x400 bed, and now I need to buckle up and do the klipper install next!
Sounds great! I hope you've got a good levelling probe for that bed haha. Once you get the little config changes dialed in, it's a lot of fun. All the best
I'm looking forward to it! I would really love to convert it to CoreXY, hopefully I can get in touch with Fabreeko regarding a mercury one kit. I'll keep planning it in the meantime. It'll be exciting! Cheers
@@oliverbroadbent4255 That's awesome to hear, I've watched a lot on the build and it's definitely cool. I probably won't install Hydra, I'd only consider the build itself If I can get Fabreeko's attention for a kit. Otherwise I will convert to corexy, just a different way. There's quite a few options it seems, which is good. While the Mercury conversion seems quite easy, it's quite costly for me. Cheers
What ended up being the fix for klipper screen? I previously re imaged my pi and I also went yay no errors but now i have no screen....just displays the console.
I reinstalled Klipper and triple checked I had klipper screen installed, for some reason it didn’t work the first time. I also flipped the usb c cable going into the screen, as otherwise touch control wouldn’t seem to work. I hope you get it resolved. Cheers
@@TommyHoughton glad it worked for you but seems like we're completely different on how we set it up! I used ribbon cable and had this working before so i know it works, but i reinstalled everything and thats when i started having issues. i had issues manually installing the firmware and then used kiauh as half the tutorials with that so i might have conflicting code now too. I was hoping your 1hr of troubleshooting was a simple enable this in mainsail lol thanks tho! good video and keep it up
@@marcusdionne weird that it reinstalling caused issues. Is formatting a possible factor? Maybe something didn’t get reset properly, but It’s just a guess. I hope you get it sorted. Thanks for watching the video.
I’m not sure of its quality, it’s cheap and definitely not as good as one of those branded genuine models. Michael from teaching tech made a great video on ac beds which I did my best to follow. I might consider removing the ac bed as it’s quite a serious upgrade which I need to keep regulated. I still need to get a thermal fuse. Cheers
I got it from Aliexpress, It's probably not as good as a genuine one, but it seems to work fine for me. www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004377144262.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.74.63511802QZA1mx
Here's the thangs link, thangs.com/designer/robertsisco/3d-model/H2%20V2S%20Lite%20Parts%20Cooling%205015%20Ducts%20and%20Mount%20Optimized.stl-993950 It requires an adapter to be used with the Ender 3, I'd prefer not to share the one I made as it's not very good. Cheers
I haven’t done proper testing, but several times the recommended stock speed is still comfortable for the components. I’d say 200-300mm’s per second travel with 3000mm’s acceleration at least. The print head is a bit loose so I can’t push things super high before it shows. I had a Gcode with the values for the quality benchy but I can’t seem to find it. If I do I’ll update this comment. Cheers
I use AliExpress for all my parts, I can provide the links for reference (hopefully YT allows them through.) The fans are nothing special, just generic 5015 ones. www.aliexpress.com/item/33049767300.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.10.42f11802imEsRK www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002129562534.html?spm=a2g0o.order_detail.order_detail_item.3.7e68f19cMyFmTo Otherwise, I don't use Amazon Au since shipping to NZ is always just a little bit too much. Let me know if this does/doesn't help. Cheers!
A Prusa would still cost too much for me, plus I wouldn’t resist modifying it. I’ve been meaning to buy a printer that “just works,” but I really enjoy modifying them. Definitely one day though. Cheers
@@TommyHoughtonI own two creality ender 3. And I thought that could be better to buy something with less need for maintenace. Because recently i've spent two days trying to figure out what is a cause of mysterious rings. I've literally dissaemble all [partys and repalced them with one which works properly. In the end I had to replace entire hot - end and that was it. And I bought two spare for future failures. But right now i'm planning to buy bamboo lab. .
@@qnaman The worst troubles are when you can’t find the cause immediately, it’s frustrating at the least. Getting an x1 or p1p will be a huge upgrade, I’ve heard such good things about those machines. I hope things work out!
its said to say but just buying a ender 3 v3 se is cheaper and you get MOST of those upgrades already done rather than upgrading a stock ender 3. i had a ender 3 and upgraded after looking at the cost.
amazing but here are some things that can retain quality at those speeds, 1. belt are tensioned with as tensioner, 2. the extruder may be a little heavy, 3. make sure fully you are not losing any cooling and all part cooling fans should be at 100%, 3. dont go that high speeds, 4. make sure everything possible is calibrated, 5. general maintenance 6. quality fans and you should be good :)
@@TommyHoughtoni just remembered, but you could get more powerful cpap fans, they are more powerful than the 5015 and can also improve quality by a lot. And you can print and use the printers parts to make a belt tensioner.
@@LucaThePupineer I'll be trying some other cooling methods on the Ender 5 video. I've got some huge 120mm blowers for auxiliary cooling, and some tiny 3010's for the printhead, will be super cool (in both meanings.) I hope to try cpap cooling in the future. Cheers
I thought it was at the start, now it’s not a worry. Super pleased with the quality of prints. I must try printing some, I’ve been afraid of using anything other than PLA for years.
@@TommyHoughton I loved my H2 but I stopped using it to test the Sherpa Mini. Sadly, I'm not really pleased with the results. I have the same nozzle, block, v6 heatsink, and the extruder can't reach 500 anymore. My H2 could do 600 easyly, the limit would be the CHT nozzle. Do you have some tips for increasing the power of an extruder ?
I’m sorry to hear that, I’ve always wanted to try a Sherpa Mini, not sure why it would affect the performance so much. In regard to increasing power, a copper cht nozzle or steel a one would help since you’re printing at high temps, a new high power heater cartridge might help as well. For the extruder itself some vref tuning and/or current adjustments may help too. It’s an interesting problem so I can only provide suggestions. I hope you get it sorted. Cheers
ill be looking forward to seeing the ender 5 mods for sure. I just recently bought a ender 5 and it was used from the local microcenter. After finally learning to level and tram the bed for Z hight so I could print my only issue now is making sure Z steps are calibrated for it and move onto PID tuning the bed so I know everything is correct. >_< Take my advice just buy it new and calibrate it from a stock system. A used system regardless of being stock or modded is a different ball park to mess with honestly.
It's sometimes more than the parts itself, over here in NZ, I've seen quotes go as high as 70USD. While it's blisteringly fast and I've had no issues, it's not exactly budget-friendly. For basic 3DP it's definitely worth getting a machine, but for CNC stuff, It's a bit different. All the best with your printing! Cheers!
Hello thank you for the video. Can you please share your marlin firmware file? I do have both the motherboard and the tft creen but it doesnt work for reason.
Hi there, I don’t have the firmware file as I flashed it years ago. I believe the skr mini e3 v3 I had installed was running stock Marlin firmware before I accidentally broke it. I’m not sure as to why it’s not work for you, I’m sorry to hear that it isn’t. I’d recommend trying a Facebook group or dedicated support for troubleshooting.
So, i already instaled klipper on my ender 3, but i want to increase print speed, but i dont have too much money, what do you recomend with low price to speed up the print?
Glad to hear you've already got klipper installed. The main bottlenecks of a roughly stock Ender 3 are the cooling and hotend. The motion system (with proper klipper tuning and cooling) will be able to hold its ground for quite a bit. The most economical option would be 3D printing a new fan system for part cooling using a couple of 5015 fans, which are commonly available online for a couple of dollars, and there are plenty of duct options for the Ender 3. A ~2$ CHT clone nozzle from Aliexpress would give you the most hotend output improvement and depending on what mainboard you're using, a 60W or 80W heater cartridge would also help a bit with higher flow rates. Volcano heaterblocks are also around 2$ on AliExpress but change the size of the hotend which can be annoying. Cheers
Have you got any links to good settings for printing with PETG on the ender 3 series? Currently I have to print slowly or it goes all whack with the prints.
Not really sorry, I haven’t got much experience with PETG and still haven’t been able to dial it in. I don’t use it often either so I haven’t done any research. I hope your printing improves soon and you find the best details possible. Cheers!
A question for the heated bed, would you guys say switching the heated bed is worth it on the ender 3 neo, or should i apply an insulation pad as i have seen multiple people run?
I wouldn’t say a whole replacement is worth it, I found that insulation was a nice boost to temperature retention, maybe heat up time too but can’t say for sure.
idk if you like critics but... I feel like you did what a lot of most most ender people do wrong with their builds which is invest way too much into a solid metal direct drive hotend instead of focusing on other things. You could have built a sherpa mini with the old extruder parts and added a $20 bambulabs hotend clone with the same fans you already had. would have been 1/3 the weight with same flow
I'm always welcome to critics, I make a ton of mistakes and often unoptimised decisions, so feedback goes a long way. That's a great idea with using old parts to make a sherpa mini, they're really nice extruders but quite pricy so I haven't yet invested. BigTreeTech kindly provided the H2V2S lite for the build, which is why I didn't go for a pick and choose scenario. The Bambulab hotends and their clones are great value high performance parts, my go to is usually the trianglelab CHC system with a cht (or cht volcano) nozzle although that will end up costing double the bambu clone. The mellow BMG is great extruder too which I would consider, but the costs all add up a bit more than I realised with a previous build. Lerdge on Aliexpress has a new extruder similar to the orbitor/sherpa for ~30 USD but I cannot confirm its performance. I'll look into trying some of those bambulab hotends, they could be useful for a number of projects. I appreciate the feedback! Cheers
I have big extrusion issues with the biqu extruder foe me in dont works has anyone a idear. I did rotation distance tuning. And the extrusion of the walls and the top and bottom layers dont match.
What I found made the biggest difference was changing pressure advance from the stock value for my machine (which was bowden in the config) from 0.85 to 0.05. My rotational distance is around 3.3. Make sure everything is tensioned correctly and tightened. If you can adjust the current of your extruder motor that may be worth looking into. I hope you get it sorted, extrusion issues are a pain I’m familiar with.
I think about upgrading and replacing parts on my Ender and Kobra Go's and always come to the conclusion that the money and parts are better used on putting together a Voron or some other DIY printer.
I agree with that, anything in a similar league to a voron will outperform any bedslinger. It’s a great looking machine too, as with all the higher end corexy’s.
@@TommyHoughtonThe OG E3 feels like the model T of 3d printers, but i might sell my klipper one now that I’ve been trying a k1 max for a minute. Tech has really come up
I've had similar comments pop up a decent bit, and it's a good question. I don't have the ability to answer it though. Later this year I should be installing a CoreXY Conversion kit for the Ender 3, which should replace the last of the stock parts. It really will be a whole different printer.
Me too mate! I’ve got almost all the parts already. I’m a little nervous about it going wrong, but it will be an exciting project and an excellent video. All the best with your machine! Cheers
The silicon heater isn't that good of an idea. First it is too small for the thin aluminium bed and will cause it to warp due to uneven heat distribution. Over time the original traces of the bigger low power heater might be stressed too much and break. Second, you absolutely need to ground the heatbed when using ac current at that voltage. Third you need to put at least one thermal fuse in line with it (better two in series) and in direct contagt with the heatbed, because ssrs can break and permanently close the circuit. That would easily cause temperatures to reach way above safe levels ab become a great fire hazard.
Thanks for the tips, I’m trying to get my hands on a few thermal fuses, grounding the bed is something I’ll look into as well. I’m considering removing the bed for the time being just to make the whole system a bit safer until the components arise. Cheers
I really appreciate that! He’s a huge inspiration 😄 You got his name right. I believe he has a dash between his middle and last name (Yu-Jan) but you got it all right. I’ll be doing a similar style video in July with an Ender 5, I hope you’ll be able to check it out! Cheers
@@COREMFC Thanks so much for the support! I really mean it when I say it makes my day 😄I’ve got some big projects planned that could change everything. I hope to see you around more often!
The x axis rail was chosen because it was easy to do with an affordable kit, the Z axis too, It was primarily because of the title and I wanted to upgrade some of the motion components. The dual z definitely keeps things more stable, I've had better print quality using it on two of my machines. Although I've also done extruder upgrades on both as well. The guides at the top of the lead screws are tightened down. Cheers
Really nice vid however there is a few more things to learn and do. For example having a lightweight extruder setup for faster and more speed and acceleration. Or just convert it into a core xz printer like the switch wire, tbh at this point, what I will do is just to see fluid I have the spare time and money to upgrade and modify this even more or just get a new printer. I could learn a thing or two from the editing man but anyways keep up the good work!!!❤
I love the SV07, but I couldn’t get it shipped to me at a reasonable price nor find one locally. I enjoy upgrading the printers though, but of course a printer that just works without mods like the SV07 is an excellent choice.
@@TommyHoughton It's really nice, I did some modifications to mine and machined an aluminum bracket to hard mount it on my delta. Put a pt1000 and 70w heater in it and can do nylon which was my goal, even using a the spare 24v fan off my ender 5 for hotend cooling suffices enough.
@Hosteggy Great idea with the bracket, nothing worse than a loose hotend. That’s quite a set of components too! I saw a hotend on Aliexpress called the “Bingo” hotend. I really want to put a 100w cartridge in that if I can get my hands on one, it looks insane. I’ll be installing the Trianglelab Dragon Ace hotend on my Ender 5 for my July video. I’m hoping it performs well. Cheers
@@TommyHoughton Oh that bingo looks very interesting, large heatsink as well compared to the competition. My dragon HF is trianglelabs as well so you shouldn't have any issues with them.
And another question, i tried multiple times to install octoprint and klipper on the pi, it is an pi 3b original(soo not like bananapi but a genuine raspberry) but i have tried it 4 times already and it keep hanging on zeroconf and i have waited 15 min to eveb 3 hours without luck. Anybody know how to resolve this issue
I had a similar problem on the OrangePi Zero 2W. It turned out to be the version of OS that I was installing, even though it was from the OrangePi website. For some reason the 6.X kernel versions did not work on the device. My suggestion would be to try a different version of the OS if you can find one. Even a blank generic Raspi OS. Then use KIAUH to install the Klipper instance. I know there is an automated program for installing octoprint as well. For me Klipper with Mainsail was enough and I don't need Octoprint on my CR-10S.
you could have flashed the pi with mainsail with the official pi flashing tool. It includes klipper and moonraker by default. The printer looks like a workhorse!
Don't be. Most of these upgrades are pointless. A btt mobo, best would be the skr 1.4, with 2226 stepsticks, RPi Zero 2 and a capricorn tube would be the only upgrades that you would need to make the printer far, far, far better than the original version (and also better than this contraption in the video). Second Z axis with an independent driver and linear rails (on the Y axis), are good upgrades, but I can tell you by running them for a while, not much of a difference. The X axis linear rails are all pointless. A proper upgrade would be dual linear on the X, but with the 2020 profile that is almost impossible. Also you would need a dial indicator to mount it properly, something almost no one on UA-cam seems to realise. Also all the displays are just pointless, mine went in the parts bin almost immediately after I bought the printer and used Klipper along a RPi Zero. I push mine a lot, I've taken all the electronics outside of an IKEA Lack chamber, and print TPU, ABS, PLA (detachable sides with magnets on the enclosure), and PET/PETG. I recently upgraded to a RIDGA sherpa mini with the stock hotend, just with a bi-metal heatbreak. If you pay only for the upgrades that you truly need (and don't be stingy on those), you will get a reliable printer that can print functional parts. Then if you need faster prints, you can either build a Voron or get a secondhand Ender 5 Pro and convert it to a Mercury 1. Don't be jealous, do the research and upgrade the Pro.
that's very ambitious, but a sub-13 minute benchy is a standard on low-budget (200$) printers such as kobra2pro. Still, i really like upgrading the godfather of all printers
@@TommyHoughtontbh I’m trying to print ABS with a stock printer, bed adhesion is a big issue and the hot end isn’t desirable. I also want to reduce print times and machine wobble affecting print quality.
@@notanicename I tried to do that a long time ago, I had a basic pop up enclosure but bed adhesion was definitely an issue.. I wish I had more experience to give you more advice. I believe different shops offer types of "glues" for enhanced adhesion, but if you're planning on printing more ABS then a more tailored hotend and build surface would be good. There's a large amount of options to go for. I can recommend Trianglelab's CHC Pro, it's a volcano length ceramic heater with a higher max themp than the E3's and with the full kit for I think ~30USD it comes with a heatsink and all metal heartbreak, so no worries about heat creep and burning the PTFE tube. It's much faster too. I don't have too many suggestions for a build plate though, I love a good PEI flex plate, they're hard to beat. Machine wobbling is an interesting problem, aside from tightening everything there's not many options I'm familiar with. The BLV mod is a premium option but I'm not sure how well it improves wobbling and such. As good as linear rails are, I wasn't having issues on my slightly stock machine years ago, the main thing was making sure everything was bolted down almost as hard as possible. Let me know if there's anything else I can suggest, I hope you find some solutions in due time. Cheers!
@@TommyHoughton sounds sweet! Ye I’ve ordered a good PEI plate to replace the glass one. I have an enclosure and also got a CR touch. Also have just gotten a better ptfe tube (Capricorn) so maybe that might work?. Either way hopefully all these new upgrades and all will work well with my Esun filament. (I use esun as well because in Australia it just seems to be the cheapest lol). Would be really interested to see some sort of mid tier upgrade guide for ender 3s from you whenever that may be. Just haven’t been in the know since 2019 🤣. Thanks again man you’ve earned a sub after seeing plenty of your videos, keep up the good work and you’ll go really far :)
That's a good set of components, I think you'll be set. Capricorn I hear is good, but a full metal/bi metal heatbreak is an excellent long term upgrade. A mid tier upgrade guide is a brilliant video idea, I've actually got something sort of similar planned for January. "How much can you upgrade a 3D printer with $100," (USD) I'll be doing this challenge with a friend, and we'll be ranking our (from stock) machines on a variety of factors such as speed, quality, reliability, value, etc. Will be a fun and interesting project. I just need to get my hands on another Ender 3 haha. I really appreciate your feedback, I've got lots planned for the near future 😄 All the best with your machine and projects! Cheers
Thanks! I’ve heard great things about the upgrade and considering what I’ve done so far, there’s not much point in leaving it out. I’ll write it down. Cheers
Yep! I’ve been talking to someone who makes a CoreXY kit for it, and after that there’ll be nothing left. I wonder if it will still be an Ender 3 then?
I'm just going to say it. You've put too much effort into this printer for the results achieved. Just my $0.02, convert that ender 5 in the background to a mercury one. It will perform better than the bedslinger. As someone who also likes to tinker, figure out a cut-off point on upgrades so you don't go too far down the rabbit hole and potentially waste money. I converted my ender 5 to a mercury one and loved it. Next step was to add hydra to mercury one. That ended up being my cut-off point. Next thing was to just build a voron and solve the limitations of the ender/mercury. Other good options out there now as well, voron, ratrig, vzbot, etc. Or bambu, creality k1 if you just want turnkey (but where is the fun in that).
The Mercury One is an awesome conversion, I really hope I can pull it off for the video, I'll look into it to see how possible it would be for me. It would certainly make it my best printer. You're right about the cutoff point, with my other machines I try to be as economical as possible with my upgrades. This one went a little overboard, but it was quite a bit of fun. I would love to build my own corexy from scratch, but that's quite the project that I'm not ready for just yet. Cheers
@@TommyHoughton Understood. Doing the mercury one conversion isn't any harder than what you've done in this video. The biggest challenge will be printing the parts. They will need to be ABS or ASA. I printed mine by putting a box over my ender 5 to serve as a bootleg enclosure. Fabreeko sells a complete mercury conversion kit. That is the most economical way to do the conversion.
I’ve uninstalled the mains bed for safety concerns, I’ll consider reinstalling it in the future once I receive proper parts. I appreciate everyone’s feedback on it. I’d like mention that this videos purpose was to try and upgrade “everything” not upgrade the most impactful parts. It’s not the best performance per dollar, there are more videos out there covering what the best value upgrades are. I can always recommend a leveling probe, mainboard upgrade (I’ve heard good things about kevinakasam’s dual z belt mod) and a hotend and extruder upgrade. There’s plenty to choose from, I’ll try and do a deep dive (with justification) on the topic in the future.
i tried to upgrade my biqu b1 with big tree tech board and the h2 and the printer just keeps missing 10cm even after calibrations
@@dorito24856 I’m not sure why that would happen, I’ve done several mainboard upgrades and extruder upgrades with minimal issues. Some fixes I’d look into would be E-steps for all axis, in case they got modified, and motor v-ref and current in case you’re missing steps. I hope you find the solution. Cheers
I was about starting upgrading my ender 3 pro, then i realized i would have spent almost the same of purchasing a Bambu A1, with 100 hours tuning more and risk of not having good results. So i sold my ender 3 to a beginner for some euros and purchased the Bambu A1. But you are a hero, you didn t give up.
The A1 is an excellent machine, for printing > Tinkering it’s way better than the Ender 3. I’ll keep upgrading this machine till I break it! I wish you the best with your videos and projects! Cheers
That little 220V silicone bed looks dangerous, bro.
It is, I am very careful around it, any mistakes could certainly be dangerous. I’ll be working on making it safer in my own time. Crimp connections are used when possible, however a thermal fuse is a recommended add on. I’ll look into it as I’d like to know as much as I can to increase knowledge and reduce risk. Cheers
@@TommyHoughton Well, the first thing would be to have a really good clean surface for it to stick to. You should remove all that old insulation foam before sticking it on the bed for starters. Next would be insulation for those wires to prevent them from shorting out. TBH though, with such a small bed, 24v should be more than enough to heat up quickly in my opinion. On larger beds with thicker aluminum plates is when AC is really necessary.
@@wrxsubaru02 Good tips, I’ll look into some more cable sheathing/covers for my wires as I’m all out and it’s useful stuff. For a 235mm bed it’s not necessary using a mains heater, I just wanted to add it for the title and was a food excuse to try out. There’s a video I would like to do in the next few months where I install a silicone heater on a cabin fiber sheet as a lightweight alternative to an aluminium one, will hopefully be interesting for high speed printing on bedslingers.
@@TommyHoughtonget some RTV gasket sealant and put it around the edges of the pad, check how voron beds are assembled
I have a similar 220v 500w bed heater which is 300mm^2. Once I had the mcu on without the rpi powered. The mcu turned the bed on by itself and kept it on at 100% for a few minutes. I heard hissing sound from the other room, came back to find that my bed heater was about to melt my printer. Smokes were coming off and the heater almost detached from the bed. But its working fine even after that incident. I never operate it from far after that.
It's nice to look at a fellow maker that has no end-stops on creativity and fear of poking a multimeter in there. Keep up the good work.
Much appreciated! I’ll be a bit careful from now on of course haha. Cheers
Please install a thermal fuse on the bed
Will do, I’m looking around getting a couple today.
I have an Ender 3 pro that has been gathering dust, I have considered just selling it and putting the money toward a BambuLabs printer as I am tired of the headaches.
I do prefer open source firmware though. Please let me know what you suggest.
Thank you for the video.
I have friends who swear by the Bambulab’s reliability and quality, while I do not have personal experience with their machines, I can recommend going with them for less trouble. I’ve been tempted several times when my machines decide to break. I’d be willing to make the sacrifice of open source firmware for a system like Bambulab’s. Thank you for your question and for watching! Cheers
why is this so well edited hidden gem
Thank you! I have another similar video coming out in November for the Ender 5. Cheers
I did something similar to my Ender 3 Pro. Thing doesn't look remotely the same. Dual Z Axis, LED light bar, Sprite SE extruder, Spider hotend, Nebula pad interface, insulation under the bed, different springs, blue metal level screws, CR Touch auto level are all the purchased upgrades. Printed upgrades include a mount for the Nebula gyro sensor, bed handle, took drawer, Nebula pad cradle, Nebula Camera mount, rail covers, rail caps, cable clips, power supply fan vent, scraper holder, and other bits and bobs. The next upgrade is just gonna be another printer (maybe a Bambu)
That’s awesome! I hope to keep upgrading my machine until it’s unrecognisable, or at least till there are no stock parts. All the best with your next machine and upgrades!
Hey I did the same dual Z mod I recommend getting a belt to keep the motors synchronized. the 616mm is a little tighter than the 618mm but I use the 618 on my printer and it works perfectly.
or you could do what I did on my V2 and add a 5th stepper motor driver to the stock motherboard.
Good idea, I'll look into that.
@@TommyHoughton my z axis was a nightmare with the screws. i did duel z with and without the belt and just had constant issues with the z axis. i found mod that makes the z axis all belt driven and it works amazing. not saying is better than properly installed lead screws but was fun to do and looks awesome + fixed my issues.
SKR board has a fuse you can replace
i bet he proberly fried an IC or some other unidentifiable component poking around with the meter in a live circuit, just my 2 cents.
You're right, I'll look into that and hopefully it fixes the problem.
@@ItsBoyRed could be….i fried my first SKR mini’s fuse right out of the box new. It crackled then popped, and I thought I killed the board but just grabbed an auto fuse assortment kit to replace it, that’s why I suggested it.
There’s a little transistor that has some marks around it, I believe it’s the one that handled fan power. I bridged the connections on the fan itself which made its way to the mainboard. I got a rough model number but not the most helpful. I was rather careless which was my fault.
I’ll try that today and give it a shot, I wasn’t able to heat anything after the short, so I’ll give the mobo power and that required stuff with a new fuse. Will let you know
What you can try for the speedbenchy is actually remove the rubber feet and pit it on small stiffer legs, for some reason the vibration of the printer and the bed can cancel each other out because the bed doesn't stop abruptly because the printer itself moves with it
Interesting, thanks for sharing that! I’m planning on doing more performance upgrades to the Ender 3 later this year, so I’ll try remembering this. Cheers
@@TommyHoughton the guy that made the 100 3d printer has a great explanation for it! It is on youtube
I’ll check it out! I’ve heard great things about that machine.
why don't you upgrade the Y axis to linear rails? the printbed wobbles a lot, ruining prints🤨
I was considering it, but I couldn’t find a good kit at a suitable price. I would have preferred it over the x axis for sure. I could have done it diy, but I was worried I wouldn’t be able to do it and the other upgrades in time. Cheers
the silicone heated bed will heat up the bed quicker, which can lead to bed warping
You have a point, I’ll keep an eye on it or remove it depending on how things go.
That effect at 2:40 was nice. I haven't seen that before. Good video!
Thanks! I really appreciate It! If you're referring to the "pull object from screen" trick, I've only seen it once or twice ever, it's quite a fun one though. I'm learning some new ones for my next video, It's going to be awesome. Cheers
Very professional looking video, Tommy - fascinating! 😀
Thanks Auntie!
Awesome video! Amazing editing/transitions as well!
Cheers Ryan! Super pleased with this one. All the best with your projects! (Will get to your email shortly)
Nice upgrade :) At this point though i think its best to put that money on a better printer to start with... except for one thing: you learn a lot doing all those upgrades :) Nice videos and well made mate
Thanks Simon! You’re absolutely right on that, there’s diminishing returns after a while. I certainly learn a lot with the mistakes I make 😄 In July I’ll be releasing my video “Building The Fastest Ender 5 Pro” with a corexy conversion, LDO speedy motors, dragon ace hotend, auxiliary cooling and more. I’m extremely exited to begin; I’ve just started scripting. I’d be honoured if you checked it out in the future! Thanks so much for commenting :D It made my day. All the best with your projects! Cheers, Tommy
Love your vids bud. It’s been super inspirational to get back into making my ender print better. I did just order the sprite head just in case as it is an employee. So I can’t have it down too long. I don’t need it super fast I just want it to perform a little faster. I don’t expect it to perform well as a bambu. But be quick enough
I really appreciate your kind words, thank you! I hope the sprite performs well, I've heard it can be a nice upgrade. Cheers!
@ oh yeah. When I first got my ender first part to upgrade was the part cooling. They can bridge awesome with the right setup. I’ve seen some wild things. The thing is. They are so basic. Like barebones. It’s like it’s meant for u to just grade into a badass machine. The sprite head is a nice touch though.
So you sort of made a KE ...but at what cost.
A much higher one, Creality’s new E3 lineup pricing is very good.
@@TommyHoughton If it makes you feel better I've dumped thousands into printers that are now worth next to nothing. Mostly because it was fun to do. Now I just like to print and not just parts for the printers 😀
Is it worth it to do all of this?
No, this video was just trying to “upgrade” as much as possible. My most recommended upgrades are a leveling probe, pei flex plate (g10 is also great) and higher quality hotend (although not entirely necessary) and a silent mainboard if not installed already. Most of the others are either for title or just unnecessary. Cheers
Isn't the difference in the size of the 220v bed and the aluminum bed going to cause a significant temperature difference
Pretty sure yeah, although I don’t print much outside the small area anyway.
I'm wondering what is cheaper: all those upgrades or buying a new Ender 3 v3 SE (or KE)?
Definitely a new Ender 3 SE/KE, it would perform better while being cheaper and simpler.
That’s not the point. We’re here to send a message.
I modified my Ender 3 V2 Neo with linear rods on Y, linear rails on X, double Z that is going to go for belted Kevinakasam, and Titan + V6 extruder with CHT nozzles and 5015 6000rpm blower.
I think that with Marlin MRiscoC with Input Shaping, Linear Advance, Junction Deviation, the best compromise for quality and speed is 150mm/s for cheap filaments and 4000mm/s² acceleration.
I obtain near 37min benchy and I consider myself satified.
For speed the only way is a CoreXY but you'll need also hyper PLA or new hyper PETG now near 20-30% more expensive than traditional filaments.
Your machine sounds amazing! I tried some high speed pla in my Ender 5 video, and I’m super pleased with its performance. Cheers
@@TommyHoughton I've a video. The tool head is the Kingroon Titan with E3D V6 modified. Into my Thingiverse I've the Y rods's mod.
It needs some time of tuning. So it's not good to search for faster speed but for good balance and tune for it.
My target is something similar to a V3 SE that still uses Marlin.
ua-cam.com/users/shortsr4AwSeom8TA
Thanks for the link! I quite like how clean and compact it is, the cooling looks good too. I might have to look into some higher rpm 5015 fans.
ok but you dont haven't done the EnderXY mod
I’m not sure what you mean fully, would you be able to re-explain?
@@TommyHoughtonI think this person was talking about the enderxy kit you can use to convert your printer into a corexy because bed slingers can only go so fast
@@spectrasouls Gotcha, thanks for explaining. I’ll be doing a CoreXY conversion hopefully in the near future. I’m talking to Ryan Sauer about getting one of his kits as it’s quite interesting. Cheers
That was a quick reply I got myn from belt3dprinterkits and it works pretty good it was a fun project I mean not convential because why not just buy a better printer but it was more of the journey for me than the destenation
What is the benefits of changing to a 220v bed? Is it worth it?
Not on a build plate smaller than 300mm. The thick beds that Voron's, RatRigs, large 3D printers (or 12v ones) could really take advantage of a 220v bed. The costs of a good quality relay, thermal fuse, mounting hardware and bed itself do add up, but they are very powerful. On anything Ender 3 sized, it's not worth it. Cheers
You basically made all the features that the S1 pro has, I like it. Good job.
It would probably cost the same as one too. I hear it’s a good machine. Cheers
You should try out swapping your toolhead to a stealthburner and hotend to a bambu
I’d love to try that one day, I’ll add it to my list.
As someone recently introduced to 3D printing, I've been considering getting a printer for home. Would the ender 3 be a good investment? I am under the impression its an older 3d printer thats been around for awhile, but I do like the idea of "upgrading" or tinkering and fixing parts on it myself if I have to. I've seen alot of youtubers use bambu printers, but they seem pretty pricey as well.
I’ve heard good things about the Ender 3 V3 SE, it’s one of Creality’s new Ender 3’s with most of the upgrades installed. (I haven’t tried it yet but I’m going based off what I’ve seen) As good as an old Ender 3 would be to get started, it can be frustrating to mess around with, and it lacks a lot of modern features, especially the original. You’ll end up spending more to bring it up to speed. There’s fun in doing it, but it’s never the most economical path. There’s a ton of information online, so most problems will probably have been encountered and solved. But for someone getting into printing, I’d look at getting one of these modern machines with most of the upgrades already installed and especially one that’s proven itself. It’ll make it easier to tinker as well having a machine that actually works. I’ve heard great things about Bambu’s machines, but can’t justify the cost yet either. I’d have a look around at machines released in the last year or so and try find user reviews as some machines aren’t really that good. Cheers
beginner 3d print nowadays should get a bambulab a1 mini, sub 400$ without their fancy multi filament system, theres no tinkering with the machine, just print, the machine works. If later on, you get interested, the ender 3 is a good base for an upgrade project where you get to tinker with your machine as much as you want. with the years I came to liking printing without tinkering much better than maintaining my printer alongside printing, so I am very happy of bambu's arrival on the market.
a few notes here.
1. you should really use a z-motor bracket that uses all 4 motor holes
2. the top parts on the lead screws will overconstrain them. I don't really add them but at least 3 of my printers came stock with something akin to those.
Thanks for the tips! I’ve heard before that the “Z-guides” or whatever they’re called could cause problems but I think it was in the long run. I’ll look more into it. Cheers
Quick question: why upgrade old printer if you could just buy new one that has all these features for almost same price?
It was primarily for fun, being able to make a video on it helps recuperate some of the costs. There are limits to how economical it is to upgrade a machine. I would love to get a machine such as the Ender 3 V3 SE or Sovol SV07 as they have so many features at competitive prices, but shipping costs bring the prices up too much for me too justify at the moment. Cheers
Great video man, you have inspired me to upgrade my old ender 3 pro 🤘 you rock the speed of that thing at the end is awesome 👍
That’s really great to hear! Stay tuned for October where I’ll be pushing the speed even more 😄 Cheers
Great video, doing something similiar with my ender 3 max! So happy to see some similar ideas in here!
That's awesome to hear! I hope it goes well. Cheers
@@TommyHoughton Thank you! I need it! I did the physical part of upgrading to a 400x400 bed, and now I need to buckle up and do the klipper install next!
Sounds great! I hope you've got a good levelling probe for that bed haha. Once you get the little config changes dialed in, it's a lot of fun. All the best
cant wait for the ender 5 build
I'm looking forward to it! I would really love to convert it to CoreXY, hopefully I can get in touch with Fabreeko regarding a mercury one kit. I'll keep planning it in the meantime. It'll be exciting! Cheers
@@TommyHoughton Just finishing up a mercuryone build my self, has been great. Will you do hydra aswell?
@@oliverbroadbent4255 That's awesome to hear, I've watched a lot on the build and it's definitely cool. I probably won't install Hydra, I'd only consider the build itself If I can get Fabreeko's attention for a kit. Otherwise I will convert to corexy, just a different way. There's quite a few options it seems, which is good. While the Mercury conversion seems quite easy, it's quite costly for me. Cheers
Mad editing skills, mate! Keep those V-wheels rolling!
Thanks, will do!
Nice! what was the final time?
Thanks! For the benchy I believe it was 12:50, unless you meant build time or such. Cheers
Please create a blog post with all links and details
I don’t have a blog, but I’ll post all items used in the description soon. Cheers
What ended up being the fix for klipper screen? I previously re imaged my pi and I also went yay no errors but now i have no screen....just displays the console.
I reinstalled Klipper and triple checked I had klipper screen installed, for some reason it didn’t work the first time. I also flipped the usb c cable going into the screen, as otherwise touch control wouldn’t seem to work. I hope you get it resolved. Cheers
@@TommyHoughton glad it worked for you but seems like we're completely different on how we set it up! I used ribbon cable and had this working before so i know it works, but i reinstalled everything and thats when i started having issues. i had issues manually installing the firmware and then used kiauh as half the tutorials with that so i might have conflicting code now too. I was hoping your 1hr of troubleshooting was a simple enable this in mainsail lol thanks tho! good video and keep it up
@@marcusdionne weird that it reinstalling caused issues. Is formatting a possible factor? Maybe something didn’t get reset properly, but It’s just a guess. I hope you get it sorted. Thanks for watching the video.
What software you use for your 3D prototypes?
For CAD work I use Fusion 360.
Is that bed hooked up to a high quality solid state relay?
I’m not sure of its quality, it’s cheap and definitely not as good as one of those branded genuine models. Michael from teaching tech made a great video on ac beds which I did my best to follow. I might consider removing the ac bed as it’s quite a serious upgrade which I need to keep regulated. I still need to get a thermal fuse. Cheers
where did you source your linear rail? Ive thought about doing rail upgrade as well but keep getting told i need to find a reliable source
I got it from Aliexpress, It's probably not as good as a genuine one, but it seems to work fine for me. www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004377144262.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.74.63511802QZA1mx
hey, could you provide links to that toolhead? or if you made it yourself post it to thingiverse? thanks!
Here's the thangs link, thangs.com/designer/robertsisco/3d-model/H2%20V2S%20Lite%20Parts%20Cooling%205015%20Ducts%20and%20Mount%20Optimized.stl-993950
It requires an adapter to be used with the Ender 3, I'd prefer not to share the one I made as it's not very good. Cheers
What Is the maximum speed you can you print with a good quality?
I haven’t done proper testing, but several times the recommended stock speed is still comfortable for the components. I’d say 200-300mm’s per second travel with 3000mm’s acceleration at least. The print head is a bit loose so I can’t push things super high before it shows. I had a Gcode with the values for the quality benchy but I can’t seem to find it. If I do I’ll update this comment. Cheers
Thank you!!
Where can I get that screen mount stl?
I can’t find it anymore, sorry. I’d recommend checking out printables as it seems to have more options for this model.
@@TommyHoughton ❤️
hey mate, do you know which fans you used or the cable extensions specifically? i can't find any on amazon au
I use AliExpress for all my parts, I can provide the links for reference (hopefully YT allows them through.) The fans are nothing special, just generic 5015 ones.
www.aliexpress.com/item/33049767300.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.10.42f11802imEsRK
www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002129562534.html?spm=a2g0o.order_detail.order_detail_item.3.7e68f19cMyFmTo
Otherwise, I don't use Amazon Au since shipping to NZ is always just a little bit too much. Let me know if this does/doesn't help.
Cheers!
thank you! just bought them and hopefully they'll work
A pi zero can run klipper?! I though you needed at least a Pi 3
It works surprisingly well! Saves a ton of money too, you do need a few adapters to get the most use though. I quite like it.
Why not buy prusa then?
A Prusa would still cost too much for me, plus I wouldn’t resist modifying it. I’ve been meaning to buy a printer that “just works,” but I really enjoy modifying them. Definitely one day though. Cheers
@@TommyHoughtonI own two creality ender 3. And I thought that could be better to buy something with less need for maintenace. Because recently i've spent two days trying to figure out what is a cause of mysterious rings. I've literally dissaemble all [partys and repalced them with one which works properly. In the end I had to replace entire hot - end and that was it. And I bought two spare for future failures. But right now i'm planning to buy bamboo lab. .
@@qnaman The worst troubles are when you can’t find the cause immediately, it’s frustrating at the least. Getting an x1 or p1p will be a huge upgrade, I’ve heard such good things about those machines. I hope things work out!
always love your videos tommy!!!
Thanks Misty!!
The Biqu extruders are 👏👌
I’m actually really pleased with it! The only thing I didn’t like were the aluminium screws which were a bit fragile but might have been me.
Mine never worked, asked for a refund, and never got it. :( they ghosted me. That's what i get gor buying it from amazon.
I'm really sorry to hear that, that's more than frustrating. I hope something goes right to compensate.
nahh they are not responding they just kind of ghosted me this happened last year@@TommyHoughton
its said to say but just buying a ender 3 v3 se is cheaper and you get MOST of those upgrades already done rather than upgrading a stock ender 3. i had a ender 3 and upgraded after looking at the cost.
I can completely agree with that, my friend recently bought a V3 SE and he’s very pleased so far. In terms of value it’s near unmatched. Cheers
amazing but here are some things that can retain quality at those speeds, 1. belt are tensioned with as tensioner, 2. the extruder may be a little heavy, 3. make sure fully you are not losing any cooling and all part cooling fans should be at 100%, 3. dont go that high speeds, 4. make sure everything possible is calibrated, 5. general maintenance 6. quality fans
and you should be good :)
A proper belt tensioner is what I need to get next, it really does make a huge difference. I’ll keep those tips in mind, and thanks!
@@TommyHoughtoni just remembered, but you could get more powerful cpap fans, they are more powerful than the 5015 and can also improve quality by a lot. And you can print and use the printers parts to make a belt tensioner.
@@LucaThePupineer I'll be trying some other cooling methods on the Ender 5 video. I've got some huge 120mm blowers for auxiliary cooling, and some tiny 3010's for the printhead, will be super cool (in both meanings.) I hope to try cpap cooling in the future. Cheers
@@TommyHoughton get ready to be ‘blown’ away🤣
The clicky gears on the H2 is not a problem. It's even a good thing. It's just noisy as hell with PA lol
I thought it was at the start, now it’s not a worry. Super pleased with the quality of prints. I must try printing some, I’ve been afraid of using anything other than PLA for years.
@@TommyHoughton I loved my H2 but I stopped using it to test the Sherpa Mini.
Sadly, I'm not really pleased with the results.
I have the same nozzle, block, v6 heatsink, and the extruder can't reach 500 anymore.
My H2 could do 600 easyly, the limit would be the CHT nozzle. Do you have some tips for increasing the power of an extruder ?
I’m sorry to hear that, I’ve always wanted to try a Sherpa Mini, not sure why it would affect the performance so much. In regard to increasing power, a copper cht nozzle or steel a one would help since you’re printing at high temps, a new high power heater cartridge might help as well. For the extruder itself some vref tuning and/or current adjustments may help too. It’s an interesting problem so I can only provide suggestions. I hope you get it sorted. Cheers
ill be looking forward to seeing the ender 5 mods for sure. I just recently bought a ender 5 and it was used from the local microcenter. After finally learning to level and tram the bed for Z hight so I could print my only issue now is making sure Z steps are calibrated for it and move onto PID tuning the bed so I know everything is correct. >_< Take my advice just buy it new and calibrate it from a stock system. A used system regardless of being stock or modded is a different ball park to mess with honestly.
All the best with your machine! I got it preowned for a good deal so I can’t complain. I’ll hopefully get a ton of mods on it, It’ll be great. Cheers
I lost pcbway at the shipping price quote for a single computer part 😢. Reason im getting back in the printing space. Man alot has changed!
It's sometimes more than the parts itself, over here in NZ, I've seen quotes go as high as 70USD. While it's blisteringly fast and I've had no issues, it's not exactly budget-friendly. For basic 3DP it's definitely worth getting a machine, but for CNC stuff, It's a bit different. All the best with your printing! Cheers!
Hello thank you for the video. Can you please share your marlin firmware file? I do have both the motherboard and the tft creen but it doesnt work for reason.
Hi there, I don’t have the firmware file as I flashed it years ago. I believe the skr mini e3 v3 I had installed was running stock Marlin firmware before I accidentally broke it. I’m not sure as to why it’s not work for you, I’m sorry to hear that it isn’t. I’d recommend trying a Facebook group or dedicated support for troubleshooting.
So, i already instaled klipper on my ender 3, but i want to increase print speed, but i dont have too much money, what do you recomend with low price to speed up the print?
Glad to hear you've already got klipper installed. The main bottlenecks of a roughly stock Ender 3 are the cooling and hotend. The motion system (with proper klipper tuning and cooling) will be able to hold its ground for quite a bit.
The most economical option would be 3D printing a new fan system for part cooling using a couple of 5015 fans, which are commonly available online for a couple of dollars, and there are plenty of duct options for the Ender 3.
A ~2$ CHT clone nozzle from Aliexpress would give you the most hotend output improvement and depending on what mainboard you're using, a 60W or 80W heater cartridge would also help a bit with higher flow rates. Volcano heaterblocks are also around 2$ on AliExpress but change the size of the hotend which can be annoying.
Cheers
Have you got any links to good settings for printing with PETG on the ender 3 series?
Currently I have to print slowly or it goes all whack with the prints.
Not really sorry, I haven’t got much experience with PETG and still haven’t been able to dial it in. I don’t use it often either so I haven’t done any research. I hope your printing improves soon and you find the best details possible. Cheers!
1:41 transition was crazy 🔥
I’m so proud of that one, it’s super clean
so clean
A question for the heated bed, would you guys say switching the heated bed is worth it on the ender 3 neo, or should i apply an insulation pad as i have seen multiple people run?
I wouldn’t say a whole replacement is worth it, I found that insulation was a nice boost to temperature retention, maybe heat up time too but can’t say for sure.
idk if you like critics but... I feel like you did what a lot of most most ender people do wrong with their builds which is invest way too much into a solid metal direct drive hotend instead of focusing on other things. You could have built a sherpa mini with the old extruder parts and added a $20 bambulabs hotend clone with the same fans you already had. would have been 1/3 the weight with same flow
I'm always welcome to critics, I make a ton of mistakes and often unoptimised decisions, so feedback goes a long way. That's a great idea with using old parts to make a sherpa mini, they're really nice extruders but quite pricy so I haven't yet invested. BigTreeTech kindly provided the H2V2S lite for the build, which is why I didn't go for a pick and choose scenario. The Bambulab hotends and their clones are great value high performance parts, my go to is usually the trianglelab CHC system with a cht (or cht volcano) nozzle although that will end up costing double the bambu clone. The mellow BMG is great extruder too which I would consider, but the costs all add up a bit more than I realised with a previous build. Lerdge on Aliexpress has a new extruder similar to the orbitor/sherpa for ~30 USD but I cannot confirm its performance. I'll look into trying some of those bambulab hotends, they could be useful for a number of projects. I appreciate the feedback! Cheers
Cool edits. Keep up the good work!
Thanks! Will do
still running single and stock motors. lol it is not everything then. I remixed a mount for a dual 48mm y motors.
Yeah I really wanted to upgrade them all but couldn’t fit it in the budget. Thats sounds awesome! I hope to do something similar in the future. Cheers
I have big extrusion issues with the biqu extruder foe me in dont works has anyone a idear. I did rotation distance tuning. And the extrusion of the walls and the top and bottom layers dont match.
What I found made the biggest difference was changing pressure advance from the stock value for my machine (which was bowden in the config) from 0.85 to 0.05. My rotational distance is around 3.3. Make sure everything is tensioned correctly and tightened. If you can adjust the current of your extruder motor that may be worth looking into. I hope you get it sorted, extrusion issues are a pain I’m familiar with.
Cool upgrades!
Thanks! They were a lot of fun.
Great job Tommy👍Even with 7 BL machines and a K1Max i'll still mod a Ender 3 once every few months :)
Thanks! I love what you did with your Ender 3 V2 a while back, when I had one a couple years ago I really wanted to do something similar. Cheers
I think about upgrading and replacing parts on my Ender and Kobra Go's and always come to the conclusion that the money and parts are better used on putting together a Voron or some other DIY printer.
I agree with that, anything in a similar league to a voron will outperform any bedslinger. It’s a great looking machine too, as with all the higher end corexy’s.
That Production Quality Tho! and I'm Jealous of those electronics skills.
Thanks Scott! I put a lot of time into this one, I’m super pleased. The electronics took a while but it was all decently well documented which helped.
I'm down for all this craziness
I hope to keep it going!
@@TommyHoughtonThe OG E3 feels like the model T of 3d printers, but i might sell my klipper one now that I’ve been trying a k1 max for a minute. Tech has really come up
Amazing job
Thanks!
This reminds me of theseus's ship, I mean, if you upgrade every part on your ender 3, is it still an ender 3?
I've had similar comments pop up a decent bit, and it's a good question. I don't have the ability to answer it though. Later this year I should be installing a CoreXY Conversion kit for the Ender 3, which should replace the last of the stock parts. It really will be a whole different printer.
I'm ready for that ender 5 build I'm like 85% upgraded
Me too mate! I’ve got almost all the parts already. I’m a little nervous about it going wrong, but it will be an exciting project and an excellent video. All the best with your machine! Cheers
I love your content, great as always
I appreciate the support!
Nice upgrading my ender 3 soon hehe thanks for this
All the best with it! Cheers
The silicon heater isn't that good of an idea. First it is too small for the thin aluminium bed and will cause it to warp due to uneven heat distribution. Over time the original traces of the bigger low power heater might be stressed too much and break. Second, you absolutely need to ground the heatbed when using ac current at that voltage. Third you need to put at least one thermal fuse in line with it (better two in series) and in direct contagt with the heatbed, because ssrs can break and permanently close the circuit. That would easily cause temperatures to reach way above safe levels ab become a great fire hazard.
Thanks for the tips, I’m trying to get my hands on a few thermal fuses, grounding the bed is something I’ll look into as well. I’m considering removing the bed for the time being just to make the whole system a bit safer until the components arise. Cheers
i love this sm editing wise very scott yu jan core plus 10/10 cam work (PS PLEASE TELL ME IF I WROTE HIS NAME WRONG)
I really appreciate that! He’s a huge inspiration 😄 You got his name right. I believe he has a dash between his middle and last name (Yu-Jan) but you got it all right. I’ll be doing a similar style video in July with an Ender 5, I hope you’ll be able to check it out! Cheers
@@TommyHoughton Dude if u keep up with posting you will be there in no time!!!!!
@@COREMFC Thanks so much for the support! I really mean it when I say it makes my day 😄I’ve got some big projects planned that could change everything. I hope to see you around more often!
Great video! :D
Thanks, I appreciate it!
1) Why rails on X?
2) Why dual Z?
3) Have you locked your Z lead screws on top of that 2040s?
The x axis rail was chosen because it was easy to do with an affordable kit, the Z axis too, It was primarily because of the title and I wanted to upgrade some of the motion components. The dual z definitely keeps things more stable, I've had better print quality using it on two of my machines. Although I've also done extruder upgrades on both as well. The guides at the top of the lead screws are tightened down. Cheers
Really nice vid however there is a few more things to learn and do. For example having a lightweight extruder setup for faster and more speed and acceleration. Or just convert it into a core xz printer like the switch wire, tbh at this point, what I will do is just to see fluid I have the spare time and money to upgrade and modify this even more or just get a new printer. I could learn a thing or two from the editing man but anyways keep up the good work!!!❤
Thanks for the tips! I’ll look into CoreXZ, I’ve been too intimidated to consider starting a build. All the best with your machine! Cheers
The Ender of Theseus at this point
I will hopefully be testing a CoreXY conversion kit for it in the future, that will transform the frame too. No original ender 3 will be left haha.
Love the idea but you could literally buy 2 sovol sv07 printers for what you spent on parts alone. Lol.
I love the SV07, but I couldn’t get it shipped to me at a reasonable price nor find one locally. I enjoy upgrading the printers though, but of course a printer that just works without mods like the SV07 is an excellent choice.
Hej cool, I also have an Ender 3 that I could upgrade.Thanks for the video!
No worries, all the best with your machine!
Haha looks very similar hotend setup to my delta that I upgraded as well. Still using bowden but it's got a HF dragon v2.
Thanks for sharing! How does that hotend perform? Cheers
@@TommyHoughton It's really nice, I did some modifications to mine and machined an aluminum bracket to hard mount it on my delta. Put a pt1000 and 70w heater in it and can do nylon which was my goal, even using a the spare 24v fan off my ender 5 for hotend cooling suffices enough.
@Hosteggy Great idea with the bracket, nothing worse than a loose hotend. That’s quite a set of components too! I saw a hotend on Aliexpress called the “Bingo” hotend. I really want to put a 100w cartridge in that if I can get my hands on one, it looks insane. I’ll be installing the Trianglelab Dragon Ace hotend on my Ender 5 for my July video. I’m hoping it performs well. Cheers
@@TommyHoughton Oh that bingo looks very interesting, large heatsink as well compared to the competition. My dragon HF is trianglelabs as well so you shouldn't have any issues with them.
I also modded my ender 3 pro, and now I am too afraid to run it without supervision in case it caught fire.
I’m with you on that, until I either remove the ac bed of install more safety components, I’ll be keeping a close eye on it.
And another question, i tried multiple times to install octoprint and klipper on the pi, it is an pi 3b original(soo not like bananapi but a genuine raspberry) but i have tried it 4 times already and it keep hanging on zeroconf and i have waited 15 min to eveb 3 hours without luck. Anybody know how to resolve this issue
I had a similar problem on the OrangePi Zero 2W. It turned out to be the version of OS that I was installing, even though it was from the OrangePi website. For some reason the 6.X kernel versions did not work on the device. My suggestion would be to try a different version of the OS if you can find one. Even a blank generic Raspi OS. Then use KIAUH to install the Klipper instance. I know there is an automated program for installing octoprint as well. For me Klipper with Mainsail was enough and I don't need Octoprint on my CR-10S.
you could have flashed the pi with mainsail with the official pi flashing tool. It includes klipper and moonraker by default.
The printer looks like a workhorse!
I’ll look into that for next time, I found Kiauh works well for my workflow. It’s a beast for sure, but still has room for more. Cheers
biggest upgrade i made was klipper on my ender 3.
Klipper is quite possibly the best upgrade out there. A cht nozzle is also high on my list. I’m glad it’s working well for you!
Well it wasn't really all... You could have converted it to CoreXY (bed slingers are so 2010 😂)...
Good work here.
As a ender 3 pro newbie owner, im jealous) Nice video!
Much appreciated! All the best with your machine! I’ve had a couple of e3 pro’s in the past and they performed very well.
Don't be. Most of these upgrades are pointless. A btt mobo, best would be the skr 1.4, with 2226 stepsticks, RPi Zero 2 and a capricorn tube would be the only upgrades that you would need to make the printer far, far, far better than the original version (and also better than this contraption in the video).
Second Z axis with an independent driver and linear rails (on the Y axis), are good upgrades, but I can tell you by running them for a while, not much of a difference. The X axis linear rails are all pointless. A proper upgrade would be dual linear on the X, but with the 2020 profile that is almost impossible. Also you would need a dial indicator to mount it properly, something almost no one on UA-cam seems to realise. Also all the displays are just pointless, mine went in the parts bin almost immediately after I bought the printer and used Klipper along a RPi Zero. I push mine a lot, I've taken all the electronics outside of an IKEA Lack chamber, and print TPU, ABS, PLA (detachable sides with magnets on the enclosure), and PET/PETG. I recently upgraded to a RIDGA sherpa mini with the stock hotend, just with a bi-metal heatbreak. If you pay only for the upgrades that you truly need (and don't be stingy on those), you will get a reliable printer that can print functional parts. Then if you need faster prints, you can either build a Voron or get a secondhand Ender 5 Pro and convert it to a Mercury 1.
Don't be jealous, do the research and upgrade the Pro.
How much has this single ender 3 costed you lol? great video btw
Not sure, I've spent around 300USD, and BTT provided a bunch of components which bumped the cost up significantly.
that's very ambitious, but a sub-13 minute benchy is a standard on low-budget (200$) printers such as kobra2pro. Still, i really like upgrading the godfather of all printers
Man I might have to try this just so I can get my ender 3 pro from 2018 to actually work ;(
What issues are you having with it? I wouldn’t recommend trying all the upgrades I’ve done here. A good mainboard is important though. Cheers
@@TommyHoughtontbh I’m trying to print ABS with a stock printer, bed adhesion is a big issue and the hot end isn’t desirable. I also want to reduce print times and machine wobble affecting print quality.
@@notanicename I tried to do that a long time ago, I had a basic pop up enclosure but bed adhesion was definitely an issue.. I wish I had more experience to give you more advice. I believe different shops offer types of "glues" for enhanced adhesion, but if you're planning on printing more ABS then a more tailored hotend and build surface would be good. There's a large amount of options to go for. I can recommend Trianglelab's CHC Pro, it's a volcano length ceramic heater with a higher max themp than the E3's and with the full kit for I think ~30USD it comes with a heatsink and all metal heartbreak, so no worries about heat creep and burning the PTFE tube. It's much faster too. I don't have too many suggestions for a build plate though, I love a good PEI flex plate, they're hard to beat. Machine wobbling is an interesting problem, aside from tightening everything there's not many options I'm familiar with. The BLV mod is a premium option but I'm not sure how well it improves wobbling and such. As good as linear rails are, I wasn't having issues on my slightly stock machine years ago, the main thing was making sure everything was bolted down almost as hard as possible. Let me know if there's anything else I can suggest, I hope you find some solutions in due time. Cheers!
@@TommyHoughton sounds sweet! Ye I’ve ordered a good PEI plate to replace the glass one. I have an enclosure and also got a CR touch. Also have just gotten a better ptfe tube (Capricorn) so maybe that might work?. Either way hopefully all these new upgrades and all will work well with my Esun filament. (I use esun as well because in Australia it just seems to be the cheapest lol). Would be really interested to see some sort of mid tier upgrade guide for ender 3s from you whenever that may be. Just haven’t been in the know since 2019 🤣.
Thanks again man you’ve earned a sub after seeing plenty of your videos, keep up the good work and you’ll go really far :)
That's a good set of components, I think you'll be set. Capricorn I hear is good, but a full metal/bi metal heatbreak is an excellent long term upgrade. A mid tier upgrade guide is a brilliant video idea, I've actually got something sort of similar planned for January. "How much can you upgrade a 3D printer with $100," (USD) I'll be doing this challenge with a friend, and we'll be ranking our (from stock) machines on a variety of factors such as speed, quality, reliability, value, etc. Will be a fun and interesting project. I just need to get my hands on another Ender 3 haha.
I really appreciate your feedback, I've got lots planned for the near future 😄 All the best with your machine and projects! Cheers
what we learned in this video: just buy bambu lab
With a Bambu you rest ignorant.
What you learn from modify old bed slinger it's a priceless experience that will rest for all of your life.
at this point you should have converted it to switch wire using a kit but it could have been a totally different video and approach
Yeah you have a point. Christoph Lehner already did an excellent video doing just that, and I wasn’t ready for such an undertaking just yet. Cheers
well done.
but seriously look into the dual belted z by Kevinakasam
it's a seriously good design
Thanks! I’ve heard great things about the upgrade and considering what I’ve done so far, there’s not much point in leaving it out. I’ll write it down. Cheers
Consider Kevin’s Belted Z mod
I'll look into it! I've heard good things about it.
its basically only an ender 3 frame
Yep! I’ve been talking to someone who makes a CoreXY kit for it, and after that there’ll be nothing left. I wonder if it will still be an Ender 3 then?
@@TommyHoughton exactly
Printer of theseus
The average ender 3 owner
I wish you would upgrade my printers 🤣
Why not just buy a new version and keep this old one too?.
I don’t really want to, maybe in the future.
Wow, TikTok ADHD generation hits hard when you have to say "thank you if you've made it this far" after 7mn 😂😂😂
I'm just going to say it. You've put too much effort into this printer for the results achieved. Just my $0.02, convert that ender 5 in the background to a mercury one. It will perform better than the bedslinger. As someone who also likes to tinker, figure out a cut-off point on upgrades so you don't go too far down the rabbit hole and potentially waste money. I converted my ender 5 to a mercury one and loved it. Next step was to add hydra to mercury one. That ended up being my cut-off point. Next thing was to just build a voron and solve the limitations of the ender/mercury. Other good options out there now as well, voron, ratrig, vzbot, etc. Or bambu, creality k1 if you just want turnkey (but where is the fun in that).
The Mercury One is an awesome conversion, I really hope I can pull it off for the video, I'll look into it to see how possible it would be for me. It would certainly make it my best printer. You're right about the cutoff point, with my other machines I try to be as economical as possible with my upgrades. This one went a little overboard, but it was quite a bit of fun. I would love to build my own corexy from scratch, but that's quite the project that I'm not ready for just yet. Cheers
@@TommyHoughton Understood. Doing the mercury one conversion isn't any harder than what you've done in this video. The biggest challenge will be printing the parts. They will need to be ABS or ASA. I printed mine by putting a box over my ender 5 to serve as a bootleg enclosure. Fabreeko sells a complete mercury conversion kit. That is the most economical way to do the conversion.
It sounds really viable, I'll start compiling all the links onto a doc for the video. I'll maybe try and reach out to them too. Thanks for the info!