I Bought a Broken 3D Printer and made it FAST!
Вставка
- Опубліковано 5 чер 2024
- Not only is it completely fixed, but it's faster now, by a long shot.
This isn't the end. The Broken Printer series will continue.
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Timestamps:
Intro - 0:00
Sponsored Segment - 0:43
Making it FAST! - 1:21
Business Contact ►► tommy@tommyhoughton.com
Music From ►► elements.envato.com/
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More upgrades and components are on the way for part 4! It will be focused on QOL upgrades and fixing up the machine even more, and tuning it to get even faster and better print quality. Stay Tuned!
Turn up current on the motors, and lube your bearings. Looks good, been a very enjoyable series that I hope continues.
Thanks for your feedback! I’ll do some tuning and get to work. I’ll make sure the series continues!
@@coltenmeredith8899 I do, but it’s more for personal use. You’re more than welcome to send me an email, or leave comments. I do my best to respond to every one.
@TommyHoughton alright. I will be sending an email. I want to see your printer.cfg if you don't mind, I would ask like to know what drivers and steppers you are using. I want to see a 10 minute benchy :)
@@coltenmeredith8899 That’s fine with me. I’m confident with some proper tuning I could hit that 10m, it will be awesome to see.
Saw your submission at a place I probably shouldn't disclose online. Love it! Keep up the good work
I appreciate that! Thanks for checking out the video!
Awesome series, can't wait to see what you come up with next! One thing I might suggest is paying a close attention to the extruder motor temp during printing - if it's too hot to touch it might cause issues, especially since it's mounted on a 3d printed part that's most likely not ABS. Lowering the Vref for that motor will get the temp down, but too low voltage will cause the motor to skip
I’ll keep an eye on it! It’s definitely been getting a bit too hot for comfort, I’ve ordered some heatsinks but I’ll most likely have to lower the vref. Once I have something other than pla on hand I’ll reprint the part to be stronger.
Great video! I have been using aftermarket upgrades and they do make a difference. I would lose the springs for the heated bed in favor of solid spacers. My tip for the solid spacers is to tram the bed and if needed add thin shims to the solid spacers if needed to make the bed as level as possible. Makes the ABL work like a champ.
Thanks! I’ll look for some to install.
Very groovy and fast too. FDM 3d printer groovy.
I'm wiring up a Lerge z board to a creality cr10 s5, going from 8bit to 32bit, 500watts for rapid heat bed, bltouch, touchscreen, wifi, and led lighting!
Ya ya, almost standard by todays machines, but nothing wrong with updating a already existing machine.
Next, a print recycler, and maybe even trying to print using recycled strips of plastic pop bottles by shredding them into thin enough strips that can feed into the extruder.
That’s an awesome couple of projects! I’d love to hear how they go! Best of luck with your Cr10 S5.
Great series of videos! Really enjoyed watching the progress. I'm currently working on a similar project on a Kingroon KP3S. Redoing the whole tool head with a custom design. I've definitely been learning a lot throughout the whole process.
Some upgrades to consider down the line - Rapido (same length as Volcano) or Dragon (same length as V6). Both great choices. Volcano is just super dated at this point.
Nice to see love being put into an old printer like this though. Keep going!
Thanks! I really want to get my hands on a Rapido, something to look forward to in the future.
I do enjoy the bringing back to life the old - broken machines. Nice video.
Thanks! It’s very fun and rewarding.
You can remove those springs to the bed now too, and use some short silicone ones since you have a BL-Touch. This should reduce any backlash on bed movements.
Planning on doing that for part 4. Stay tuned!
NEVER calibrate rotation distance from printed parts. Other than the extruder, rotation distance is fixed and a function of pulleys, 1.8 or 0.9° motors, and any gearing involved.
I'm not being a hater this is super important!!!
Yeah, the rotational distance was being a real pain and confusing (especially because I couldn't print anything), mainly from mixed messages from too much research getting jumbled in my mind, I thought printed parts would be the way to go. After attempting "tuning," In the end (and after calibrating with the mechanical components) I got 32 (compared to stock 40) value for the X and Y and all my parts have been spot on since then, (thankfully.) From now on I'll definitely be taking a different approach. I appreciate your comments! All the tips and feedback from these videos has been extremely helpful.
Great job with this video & printer, Tommy. Loving the series of videos - and your shirt too! Look forward to the next one! 😀
More than excellent quality and content. Just fascinating to watch.
awesome to see you got this back to working order and then some! :D
That really is the perfect shirt for this episode's sponsor.😂
Nice to see you've managed to get it all working well.
Thanks for noticing!
Are you me? Your journey here looks identical to what I've been going through an Ender 5 Pro refresh 😁
I have been slowly upgrading my ender 3 pro to be the best 3d printer it can be I changed the Mainboard to the BTT SKR Mini E3 V3 because the original one was faulty for some reason and couldn't install a new fresh firmware on it and changed the hotend to the Creality Direct Drive Sprite hotend Extruder Combo and with the CR touch and it amazing right now I'm Just looking into making it print faster and removing the weird layer lines but this series is amazing and very helpful
Glad to hear that! Best of luck improving your machine!
Excellent job bringing it back from the dead. Though I noticed something towards the end of the video 9:15 , when your x-gantry moves it's yanking the heated bed cable around with it? That's going to fatigue out the cable or connector pretty fast IMO, you'll possibly get intermittent breaks if left like that too long. Understandable that sometimes the wiring lengths or space behind the printer, don't always work out to be ideal though.
Good spotting, it’s definitely being worn out faster like this, I’m redoing it to be more durable.
I love this series
I know it’s a bit of pointless considering you have a BL touch, but getting some proper leveling knobs might help if you plan on working on the bed more. Also great video!
You’re right, the little ones really aren’t that helpful, and they come loose. Thanks!
This printer appears to be an anet a8 upgraded to an am8, great conversion if done correctly,I have one one of these and ditched the a8 electronics for the lerdge x board. I use mine for flex filament and abs, great set of videos, keep them coming 👍
Good to know, I’ve been struggling to find files for this machine. I’ll make sure the series will continue.
It looks more like a Pruss Bear to me. But the Bear and the AM8 files are in Thingiverse
I also have a Mellow BMG extruder and although it looks exactly the same as the cheaper clones it is not! the gears are made from much stronger metal than the cheaper models and the tension control seems much better, I am not saying the cheaper ones are not useable as they are ok.
I’ve got one of the cheaper ones on my Ender 3, it works but I definitely found the mellow one to perform better and have better wear resistance. The cheaper one already looks like it’s been through a lot, but it does work.
Could you share how you built the printer? Board, Firmware, etc.
I wish I could, but I didn’t personally build it, It was purchased broken locally and already assembled. You can find details on it by Searching for Anet AM8 on thingiverse, or Prusa Bear, both machines are quite similar. I’ve made two previous videos on this printer, which contain more information on the hardware and software of it. I hope that helps.
Awesome Tommy keep going 💪💪💪
Thanks Brent! Will do.
Hey I noticed your printed y tensioner is similar to the setup on my cr-10 s4. Would you mind providing a step file for it so I could modify it for my s4?
I wish I could, but I don’t have any of the step or even stl files for any parts on machine except for the couple of parts I designed in the videos such as the extruder bracket or electronics housing. When purchasing the machine the owner didn’t have any of the step files to provide me with. Sorry about that.
Very good indeed, i really want to see how far you can push this!
You and me both! I’m going to keep pushing it till something breaks and It gets fixed again, or it starts entering corexy territory, it’s ambitious but it gives me a chance to test all sorts of components. It’s going to be fun.
I still have to get a faster print then you! You're still far in the lead which is cool, and gives me a goal, ( some friendly competition.) Plus I rediscovered this video, so I know bedslingers have sooo much potential still: ua-cam.com/video/AxrsoUQE5rw/v-deo.html
@@TommyHoughton i got an excellent gift which is a SKR 3 ez the flagship mainboard which is 3 times as fast as my current one, plus a 24V PSU, I will try to arrive to 5:30 before going with klipper
@@Lucas_sGarage best of luck!
@@TommyHoughton thx I will definitely need it
Top job !
Great video! What accel can you get out of the printer?
Thanks! I’m currently still testing the max accels, but I believe I was able to get 7000mms2 no problem. The next part in the series will dive a bit more into this.
looks like you have a g10 plate on your 3 and you said you picked up a PEI plate for the new printer? and the pei has been better for adhesion?
The PEI has been performing really well so far, and being able to take it off and flex it had been a great plus. I prefer it to G10 and can recommend it, of course it does cost more than G10 though.
Great job mate!
Thanks!
Awesome vid once again
Thanks for watching! Part 4 coming soon.
your all-around video-making skills and engagement continue to improve - keep going! The algiorithm will surely hit you sooner or later!
Thank you! I will keep working hard, this series has helped me so much already.
Great video!
Thanks!
That's awesome! What software do you run to monitor your printer?
following on this q
Thanks! I use Mainsail.
why you had 21mm cube? I mean XYZ steps requires no tuning at all. they derived from belt pitch and tooth count of pulley. I mean XYZ steps shouldn't be modified but I see clear issue with size. What I want to say if you calibrated 20mm cube to be 20mm then check that 200mm distance is ok because something weird here
Yeah, I couldn’t figure out what was the actual issue. I only wish I checked what the steps per mm were before I flashed klipper, ever since I did the dimensions were wrong. Despite no mechanical changes. I’ll do another checkup on the machine shortly.
Look great!! What retraction distance do you use??
thanks! I believe 0.7mm with a speed around 45mms. It’s the same settings as the previous direct drive extruder and I haven’t had any issues with it.
@@TommyHoughton thanks for replying! I just got a knock-off CHT and direct drive and had a problem with slightly wispy stringing. Keep up the great videos!
First ten seconds of the video and i'm already a fan of this amazing content mate
Thank you so much! I’ll make sure to keep improving it.
Can somebody share with me how to find that X carriage at 1:59?
Or is it just printed bmg?
I believe its a prusa bear x carriage, I’ve been trying to find it since I don’t have the file, but looking on printables and such should yield results hopefully close to what you’re searching for.
@@TommyHoughton thank you!
nice work but lots of benchies one must complete.
8:18 Those springs! My first printer is an Ender 3 S1 Pro. The CR Touch is very accurate, but everything else about the ABL Mesh sucks. I now immediately replace the springs with silicone, anytime I buy a new Creality printer. Even if the first layers on them, are never anywhere near perfect. They at least stay put once it moves on. Glue Stick helps to.
+-I have 2 S1 Pros, an S1 and a Frankensteined V2(that's all but an S1 now). Can't wait to buy something from another brand. I'll probably go with Bambu. I'd love a Prusa XL, but is it really worth it?
P..S. Do you edit your videos? They are similar quality to people with 610,000 subs. 🍻 Here's to you reaching those numbers.
I have silicone bed springs on my ender 3 and are so much better than springs. I’ll get some more on the way. I’d probably go for Bambu as well. Heard good things about them, and the P1S sounds promising.
@@TommyHoughton You have a BLtouch. Just don't use any kind of spring. Mount the plate rigidly, use ABL.
@@AlexusMaximusDE Good Idea, I'll find some spacers to replace the current springs.
Hey man I’d like to see a video on taking that printer forgetting about quality and printing the fastest print possible! Can you do that boss? That would be sick just run it so fast try a 5 min benchy 😂 that would be insane new sub by the way
It’s in the works! (I’m already getting 10m ones) I’ve got more components arriving soon. It’s going to be exciting, stay tuned for part 4!
That was awesome I got a bigger channel and your quality beats mine! Your videos are great when I looked how many subs you had I was shocked!
Mate! There seems to be a small fury animal nesting in your top lip! Lol!
Hey, I finally subscribed. 👍
Thanks Jacob!
@@TommyHoughton Your welcome Tommy
Sweeett video bro
Thanks! I really appreciate it.
dang that's a fucking frankenprinter now lol
“Part 5: Corexy Conversion”