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@@victormartinez-pq7yj in your car or where to buy them?

@inovahightechltd to purchase them. I have new lifters and want to put them in my 380sl. But can't find anywhere to buy the various size shims

@@victormartinez-pq7yj the part numbers for each size are listed in the MB manual. They are available through Mercedes Benz dealership service department

No, not really. I checked amp draw of single fan and then two fan unit. Both were around 10 to 15 Amps. The relays I got installed are rated for 20A Fuse rating I used is the same as well. The wiring in my car from fans to resistor and relay / fuse box is 2.5 mm2 You may want to check your relays, fuse and wiring

@@Player-jz1bf I would adjust the mixture to 0.5 to 1 % CO on exhaust rather than the duty cycle. CO is adjusted at idle rpm then let it idle for about 30 seconds then rev up to 3000 rpm and watch CO - should fall below CO at idle. Then rev down to idle and let idle for a minute or two. CO should go back to the previous idle CO. Repeat this a few times until CO returns to same idle CO You may have to tweak the mixture adjust a little bit during this process

Garry, the crankshaft has two turns for one turn on camshaft and distributor You need to take off both camshaft covers and align camshaft tdc marks with crankshaft tdc mark. Only then can you adjust distributor

ua-cam.com/video/HmBpeBP3ZkE/v-deo.htmlsi=p9EKjsCMWLPSYAR8

Is that WHY my NOX was high? Wow, I have to remove BOTH vales covers again to see camshaft DTC? CAR DIVES ok, but a bit weak and unstable RPM

@@glim888 there is probably a lot more wrong You need to get the MB service manuals and do the entire diagnostics in group 07.3 This is beyond the comment section or by phone to guide you through this

I'd replace those chain guides and valves cover gaskets, and make sure TDC on both camshafts were inline .....then instead distributor cap.....I thought rotor was pointing close to cycliner#1....not too sure. In that case , could I pull out the distributor assembly and reinstall rotor to point at #1 cylinder?

Hi Gary, TDC on Crankshaft? Just making sure I a understand your question correctly since this video deals with the fuel metering unit

Yes, I was going to do timing adjustments for the distributor cap and DTC inline...and saw that additional pin that sticking out near those numders...numbers.... What's that pin for?

Could I call you to explain what I am trying to do and have some questions regarding this plate adjustment and ruff idling....on my engine....cold hard start issues?

Again, the pin on the engine block or the tiny pin on the balancer?

Pin on the balancer

Hi Dan, Thanks for the Monarch info. I believe they are still available in Germany. I presented the MB regulator in this video ua-cam.com/video/rHlbG2n7NqU/v-deo.htmlsi=CMcBlJnEjfmwrhaw

Gary, only by punching.

Yes, but this has turned out to be littered with obstacles

I guess you meant but does not work with fan control Check regulator module. Mine was bad too

Have you checked your ignitiontiming?

Need to check ball bearing removal

@@inovahightechltd how to remove ?

@glim888 you have to carefully drill out the ball

Could I cut off top 0.5in?

Another guy mentioned....if the original ball is still on the part, do not attempt to remove or adjust from the top

Low idle in neutral / park with a/c compressor running or in drive?

@@inovahightechltd 700 in park with AC on, 500 in gear with AC on. The AC won't turn off, I likely have to replace the dashboard switch assembly but I'm in Las Vegas and it's supposed to be 107F today. Not messing with a functioning AC!! I just opened up the bypass tube and haven't started it yet.

@@VegasMikeP229 it’s probably 550 in gear which is normal. The AC Kompressor Relay send one 12V signal to the idle speed control unit which increases rpm by about 50 to 100rpm The A/C compressor relay is controlled by the climate control unit. Pull the compressor relay and see what happens first. It appears that your idle speed valve and idle speed controller are fine

@@inovahightechltd Ok, it changed but I'm leaving it alone for a while. Hot, it idles at 900 in neutral but around 700 in gear w/AC. The ICV will go almost closed at about 950ma, hang, then close at 1.3A. I'm hoping that just running it for a while will fix the little "catch". I put in an open bypass tube and I'm guessing that's probably why the idle went up. Any idea what the hole size should be? The car ('87 560SEC) had a terrible idle and huge hesitation on minor acceleration. Three different shops have replaced pretty much all the rubber "stuff" on top of the engine, rebuilt but validated Fuel Distributor, new injectors & buckets & o-rings. Even with all that, the idle was close to smooth (most of the time) and acceleration was mostly smooth. Hold the idle at 700 and acceleration was *always* smooth. Yep, multiple problems in a row.

@@VegasMikeP229 this is a bit high of an idle. I made like 3 or 4 videos about those idle speed valves: Mercedes W126 4.2&5.6L - actual test of modified idle speed air valve from tutorial video ua-cam.com/video/0HMXlDvioxw/v-deo.html Mercedes W126 3.8 5 4.2 5.6L in-depth tutorial of root cause of idle increase with temperature rise ua-cam.com/video/eBXHjuKja0A/v-deo.html Mercedes W126 All 8cyl - idle speed issues - often overlooked: Connector, Idler Arm 117-094-03-12 ua-cam.com/video/sJmouE9_ahA/v-deo.html Mercedes - A closer look at the infamous idle speed control / air valve ISCV and it’s internal parts ua-cam.com/video/Ybki3B1vefs/v-deo.html These videos will further explain the issues and how to adjust those valves. Just in case you haven’t seen those already.

TDC Signal muss bei Fahrt beobachtet werden bis Fehler auftritt. Bei Ausfall ist ZDL zuüberprüfen. Zuerst die Paste auf Rückseite erneuern (trocknet mit Zeit aus) um korrekte Kühlung zu garantieren. Dann nochmals Test fahrt durchführen. Falls Fehler immer noch auftritt, ZDL erneuern.

ZDL = EZL

Bei welcher Außentemperatur ergibt sich dieses Problem? Vermutlich defektes Kraftstoff Pumpen Relais. Das Relais hat auch die Funktion der Drehzahl Begrenzung, die schaltet K Pumpen dann ab. Lässt sich der Wagen bei hoher Außentemperatur und warm gelaufenen Motor gut starten? Falls nicht, Kraftstoff Speicher bei Pumpen mal überprüfen ( MB Nummer 0004760921 ).

Das Motorsteuergerät hat keine Funktion beim starten. Es gibt aber die Kühlwasser Temperatur and das KPR durch. Das Zündgerät konvertiert das Signal vom Kurbelwellensor in eine Frequenzabhängige Rechteckspannung welches vom ZDL an alle verteilt wird, inklusive Klima Steuergerät, KPR, ECU, Drehzahlmesser. Diese Signal heißt TDC. Wenn das KPR das TDC Signal verliert, schaltet es sofort die Pumpen ab. Wenn das KPR überbrückt wird und die Pumpen laufen sollte man an einer Zündkerze auf Zündung beim starten prüfen. Keine Zündfunke heißt dann zuerst Zündspule überprüfen (Widerstandsmessung) dann das ZDL Wenn das alles in Ordnung ist liegt der Fehler im Benzin Kreislauf. Zuerst Kraftstoff Speicher überprüfen und falls nötig erneuern. Dann Kraftstoff Druck an Ober und Unterkammer am Mengenverteiler überprüfen. Falls nötig, Druck Regler erneuern oder bei zu hohem Druck die rückleitung auf Verstopfung überprüfen

@HTMLEXP what is the manufacturer / part number of your 14.1V regulator? Thanks

​@@inovahightechltd I'll check and get back to you.

​​@@inovahightechltd I tried to post the part numbers but I think YT deleted the message. Manufacturer BERU. Number in words: Zero-One-Ninety, Double-Zero-Five, Double-Zero-Five

@HTMLEXP thanks This would be a Beru GER005 0 190 005 005 www.ebay.com/itm/152203309807?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=7y-10fKDRBG&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=Hi9YnvwaR7e&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Yes, although mine has 14.1V printed on the cover

We will find out

Yes, your assumption is correct. However, the EHA valve is primarily controlled by the ECU from the value / measurement it receives from the oxygen sensor and the throttle position switch. However some current should flow at all times. Just in case, check the fuse(s) in the over voltage protection relay to make sure your ecu gets constant power and voltage from ignition switch

@@inovahightechltd Many thanks for that, Peter. The throttle position sensor seems to be good, but there is a problem with the oxygen sensor. I didn't think it would be a faulty until you mentioned it because it's less than four years old. Thanks to your comment, I checked the voltage at operating temperature and it wasn't fluctuating as it should. It was static at .86 volts. Could that be causing the lack of current to the EHA, i.e. does the CPU think it's running too rich and not enriching the EHA at cold starts? Thanks again in advance for your reply.

@@OmarAbdur-Rahman are you sure your ECU is getting all the 12V power and has a good ground connection? If you have 12V supply on all points on the connector and the ground is good as well, then the internal 5 V regulator inside the ECU may be bad

@@inovahightechltd Sorry, but I'm not sure I understand what you wrote, Peter. When you say 'connector', are you referring to the plug that connects to the ECU? If so, I take it you're saying that every point that the ECU's pins go into should have 12V. Is that right? If so, then I'm afraid there isn't 12V at every point. There's 12.12V only at the point that aligns with pin 6 and there's 10.4V at the point that aligns with pin 25. There's not much voltage at the other points. Or maybe I misunderstood you.

@OmarAbdur-Rahman yes, the ECU connector and you need the wiring diagram to locate the power supply pins

Both

@@inovahightechltd thank you for your fast answer, kind Sir! Please, I have a polo 9n 2005 1.4 16v FSI. 60k miles. Mine it only rattles at cold start, after it sits for weeks. I think is the tensioner, but i don t find a good mecanic, in my country. Do you think is only the tensioner or olso the chain(I have plastic guides)? I was thinking to change only the chain, tensioner and guides, OEM parts(considering the low mileage, made outside of the city, kept on the automatic pilot at 2k RPM)

@cartaginalandscape6349 I don’t know much about a Polo

Wire and connector problem is possible. Also check your Over-voltage protection relay, they tend to go bad too

I want to prevent gasoline from going back to the tank. So that the car will start when cold. In which direction and on which hose should I put the check valve?

Check valve is mounted on output side of each fuel pump

The issue is fuel mixture, either to lean or rich. Disconnect ECU from wiring harness with battery disconnected. Reconnect battery and start engine. If problem no longer exists then the issue is ECU / EHA / potentiometer issue. Follow MB manual group 7.3 for trouble shooting. If the problem still exists, then your mixture is off. Adjust mixture by adjusting 3mm Allen screw until satisfactory results are achieved. Do this only in very small increments, 1/16 to 1/8 turn at a time Reconnect ECU with battery disconnected

@TheCarTakerGarage the UK 500E was actually a souped up 300E with 500SL engine with KE. I should have mentioned this fact.

No, just the two side guides and the three hinges

@razmadzekoko this video shows the hinges ua-cam.com/video/i-jhuWcGkKQ/v-deo.htmlsi=q9uDhfTrJ6FYdr4M

@@inovahightechltd thanks for helping 🙌 I didn’t figure it out which hinges you mentioned, are they located from the top or from bottom side?

@razmadzekoko top side

Varta is not available in the USA and thank you for watching!