![enjundoc](/img/default-banner.jpg)
- 106
- 223 919
enjundoc
United States
Приєднався 15 січ 2008
Waterloo 2HP Engine Restore to Run (Part-1)
In this video series we attempt to revive another Waterloo engine. This one has had a few previous repairs, but had not been completed, and was partially disassembled. We'll take a look and see what it needs.
Thanks for following along!
Thanks for following along!
Переглядів: 626
Відео
John Deere Model E 3HP Restore to Run (Part-3 of 3)
Переглядів 612Місяць тому
In this video, we wrap up the restoration an get it running.
John Deere Model E Magneto Repair
Переглядів 9703 місяці тому
These Magneto's are very dependable units as long as they're properly cared for. Here are some views inside a couple of Model E Mags that needed a little TLC.... JD E Engine Restoration to Run, start here: ua-cam.com/video/oKz6Aq5H_ks/v-deo.html
John Deere Model E 3HP Restore to Run (part-2)
Переглядів 7123 місяці тому
Here are some views after the disassembly and clean up. Link to video of the Magneto Restoration here: ua-cam.com/video/4KRiAwxvZeA/v-deo.html
Standard Cream Separator Engine (Part-4) Main Bearings...
Переглядів 4714 місяці тому
In this video we take a look at making the crankshaft main bearings and addressing some lubrication issues...
Standard Cream Separator Engine (Part-3) Crankshaft Reconditioning
Переглядів 5675 місяців тому
This video shows how the crankshaft was re-surfaced to eliminate the corrosion pitting and oddly worn surfaces. Check out the first two parts to see just how bad of shape this little engine was in when found.
John Deere Model E 3HP Restore to Run (Part-1)
Переглядів 8186 місяців тому
In this video we will take a close look at, and disassemble a 3HP JD Model E engine. It has obviously been setting for decades waiting to be re-discovered and brought back to working order. This is one of the first Model E engines built by JD, thus very much worth the effort to restore to running condition. I will attempt to preserve as much of the original petina as possible. They're only orig...
2024 Channel Update and, Thank You!
Переглядів 4736 місяців тому
2023 was a great year for this channel. I wanted to take a few munutes to thank you viewers for all of the kind support and comments. Thank You!!
Standard Cream Separator Engine (Part-2) Disassembly and Inspection.
Переглядів 7757 місяців тому
This video is much longer than I wanted it to be so please bear with me. This was a painfully tedious job trying not to break any frozen solid parts. If you like what I'm doing, please consider Subscribing and commenting.
Standard Cream Separator Engine (Part-1) Is It worth restoring?
Переглядів 6918 місяців тому
In this Video Series we take a close look at this little Standard Cream Separator Engine. It is Very Rough. Will it be a candidate for restoration or is it too far gone? Let me know what you think!
IHC Titan Restore to Run
Переглядів 1 тис.9 місяців тому
In this Video we will take a look at an International Harvester 2-1/2HP Titan. The Engine had apparently set for a long period of time and the fuel system needed some serious attention. I also found a Nice Original set of Trucks to mount it on. Let's make some Smoke!
John Deere 1-1/2 HP Model E Restoration (Part-2 of 2)
Переглядів 4,5 тис.11 місяців тому
In this video we get the engine back together and end with it running.
John Deere 1-1/2 HP Model E Restore to running condition (Part-1)
Переглядів 8 тис.11 місяців тому
John Deere 1-1/2 HP Model E Restore to running condition (Part-1)
Babbitt Bearing Repair, Goold Shapley Muir (part-2)
Переглядів 1,9 тис.Рік тому
Babbitt Bearing Repair, Goold Shapley Muir (part-2)
Ford 8N Tractor Rescue (part-3) of 3...
Переглядів 3,3 тис.Рік тому
Ford 8N Tractor Rescue (part-3) of 3...
Where is s good place to get all the torque specs for these E motors?
My brother and I are just starting into my grandfather's horse and a half. It's in really good shape except for a brokern rocker. We have parts coming. Hope to have it running soon. Our dad hasn't ever seen it run, so it should be exciting to see his reaction when we suprise him. That's for the helpful videos.
hey my friend. i just found your channel and i love it. Ive always wanted an old stationary engine and today i finally found one. Its labeled as a Monarch CC. 3 hp. its in really good condition and feels like it has decent compression. Only problem is it has no ignition coil or magneto, just a bracket. prior owner is deceased. Can i put a model T style coil on it or????? I can’t find any info on it. Its also missing the oiler and tube that goes through the water hopper. where in the world can a guy find parts for these ???
Congrats on you recent acquisition! Fortunately, there are many sources of parts for these relics. Find a local club in your area and ask around among the members. There may be parts close to you. Facebook Groups, Ebay, Flywheel Supply, Starbolt Engine Supplies, Smokstak, etc etc. As for Ignition sources, yes makeshift contact switch or point system can be rigged on the engine to energize a buzz coil. Thanks for the kind words and good luck!!
you have way to much fun my friend. fascinating way of using a stationary engine for something other than a heavy door stop ! great job.
Looks like a fun little engine there, Doc!
You sir are criminally undersubscribed. It's so hard to find good restoration/repair videos with informative and pleasant commentary.
I am Working on one of them. Your doing great work
What type of glue did you use to hold the brass nut in place?
Super glue. With accelerant. Good luck, and thanks for watching!
She’s running nice and smooth, doc. I can see why folks like the John Deere engines, but I link watching all the bits spinning around…
My father in law restored a Waterloo Boy 7hp some years back so it’s been a great pleasure watching you do yours! Thanks for what you’ve done.
Can you find those end bell housings?? and other cast potmetal parts?? ( VERY lnformative vidio as I have never seen a magneto torn down B4 THANK YOU!!)
Yes. All parts are available through Lightning Magneto, a subsidiary of Flywheel Supply. Thanks!
Maybe you can ask about welding the cracks with nickel rod ( less heat on the casting ) I have used nickle rod B4 you have to heat the whole casting but no where near as hot!!
Nice 👍
Fantastic videos !!!! For an old guy😂 Most of the videos I watch are complete junk! You’re putting out the best videos I’ve watched…. I just picked up a 1914 Waterloo 5 horse and I’m missing parts.. rocket arm and mounting bracket, igniter and Mag. Mine has a different governor than the one in your video series. Do you have parts for sale or suppliers that you would recommend other that eBay… Thanks Dave B …. Is there a way to contact you directly?
Thanks for the kind words! I source parts from private and corporate vendors through the Web, and swap meets and shows. If you are on Facebook there are groups in which you can network to source parts. There are several people around the US that have used and reproduction parts available. Starbolt and Flywheel Supply are the most popular. Give them a search. As for Ebay, that is a great place to judge just what is available. Some Ebay sellers will provide their contact info so discussions could continue in private, if you get my drift. My email: enjundoc@gmail.com Thanks!
I absolutely love this !
Very cool! Runs great!
Very nice, thanks for all the good advice. Rick
I have the same engine and is been hard to find any information on it...I am trying to set the timing and dont know where to look for timing marks? There is none on the gears on crank shaft.
The easy way to set the cam timing without marks is to coordinate the opening and closing of the exhaust valve with the piston at tdc and bdc. Set the exhaust valve to open at or just before bottom dead center, and close at or just before top dead center. You can then set the spark to occur at around 10 degrees before tdc. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching!
Where did you get the valve springs and any other parts?🧐
I use either Starbolt Engine Supplies located in Maryland, or Flywheel Supply located in Iowa. Both can be found easily on the web. Good luck and thanks for watching!
Now I maybe missed something but why would it hurt to overfill the oil by that little bit?
Any more oil than necessary will cause the engine to leak excessively. These early Deere's didn't have a crankcase pressure relief valve, or any other source of crankcase ventilation, so excessive oil caused excessive splash, which increased leakage from the main bearings, pushrod exit area, and any other opening it can find. Back in the day on the farm, nobody really cared, but today we try to keep leakage to a minimum for obvious reasons. Thanks for watching!
Yea. Thanks for replying!
I just can't understand how the external parts last without constant lubrication. Take the valves for example. How often did the operator need to squirt oil on them. I would be wanting to put oil on them every minute. But, I know that isn't the correct answer. Please educate me on oiling these mechanisms. Thank you and thumbs up.
External lubrication points should be oiled before each start up. They will survive with less but I agree with you in that too often is always better!
@@enjundoc Thank you enjundoc. I like watching your channel and wish I was your neighbor! I go to many steam shows every year. I always look at these engines and their external moving parts. Camshafts, valves, clattering linkages and such. All running in dusty conditions and without "proper" lubrication. I can't understand it. But, look at those giant Snow engines that were used in natural gas transportation. They ran nonstop for decades! Many parts just getting one squirt of lubrication per day. So, it must be OK. We note the importance of really hard and extremely well polished wear surfaces to start with.
Say, Doc? Did you have a chance to do anything with this critter? This video got me looking at my 1 3/4 hp Arco, it has the fuel feed on the off-side, with the plug under the magneto. I’m after wondering if the plug-in-head arrangement had to do with the sheet metal covering on the cement mixer? Or maybe just a series change from an earlier type of magneto to the WICO. The serial numbers appear to to show this being a much earlier engine, mine wears 333XXX, while this one is 101XXX. I don’t have a copy of G. Karch’s book, so I don’t know if those serial numbers were by model or just total Hercules production…
Actually, that engine was sold before I got a chance to do anything with it. The new owner needed a plug head for his collection and "ripped" it from my hands. lol. Can't keep em all! I agree with you on the plug location in the cement mixer. Good luck with the Arco!
@@enjundoc Well, that happens. Would have made an interesting video, though. My Arco is an older restoration, about the only thing it needs is a set of rings installed. Planning to build a permanent magnet motor into a load for breaking it in, just have to finish my shop first!
Hello i have a eclipse 1a i have put new rings in it i have put ball bearing in drip oiler .And your set up on elbow thanks for that. Oil up to bottom hole in sump 1 drip per 30 seconds in oiler . Runs great but still puts oil out of exhaust do you put less oil in yours. Your help greatly appreciated
It sounds like you're oiling the cylinder just a little too much. Try cutting back on the drip a little at a time until it cleans up.
@@enjundoc Thanks for that i will slowly keep cutting back 1 drip per 30 seconds at the moment thanks for reply
I'm five years late to the picture show, having just picked up a Schebler D205 at a swap meet. Seller said it had been on a 1904/05 Yale automobile. Slightly different than yours but virtually the same. Although I have no use for it, it's a beautiful piece of automotive history. Your video and information was invaluable. Now I feel as if I can safely disassemble the Schebler without damaging it. Was hoping that you would end the video with a few more details. Especially gasket material thickness and O-ring sizes. Your O-ring retainer is genius. Thank you sir.
Those trucks look like Waterloo Boy trucks
I agree with you 100%. Others have said the same as well.
that board on the cart has been replaced IVE 2 beams on the cart 1 ,-4 each side on the cart 😊😊 OMG 4 5 2O24
John Wanat has very good tanks for JDs
First magneto I saw without points !
Low tension magneto for an ignitor set. The points are inside the combustion chamber.
Very nice! Looking forward to seeing it run!
Your getting things together great job!! As for the plastic tank if you need that bump at the rear gone ? Don't cut it take a heat gun warm the inside all around I'd use a block of wood and push it inwards and hold it until it cools better the cutting it out as u said
I stumbled across this Fantastic videos on the build I have the waterloo 1.5hp contract engine & a 5hp banner contract engine Thanks
Thank You!
Incredible work as always! I hope some day I will be able to do this level of work to save engines! I really appreciate how you take time to explain what you are doing and how you are doing it when it comes to all the machining! Also very cute dog!
I personally find these engines kinda boring because they hide a lot of their moving stuff on the inside, BUT, seeing you take this one all apart and getting it going again is going to be quite interesting! Looking forward to part 2!
Excellent work!! Looking forward to the engine assembly.
That’s a neat little device, Doc!
You’re doing great work on that engine!!
That is a very nice engine !
I really enjoyed watching your videos! Thanks for sharing! You’re very methodical on your repairs I like that 😅thanks David Upham
Does "Self Oiling" mean everything except the valve assemblies on the head? I assume that stuff needs oil every now and then.
You are correct!
I have enjoyed watching you make this video! Keep up the great work! I have an old horse 1/2 Hercules engine! That I need to start working on! This gives me inspiration 😅.
Wow that thing cleaned up super well! You really do some amazing work! It's so inspiring to watch, I really hope I can get to this level of work myself someday
First time viewer and I enjoy your videos very much! I especially like your quiet presentation style uninterrupted by music and lame attempts at humor. Keep the videos coming and I will watch until UA-cam or I come to a natural end. Looking forward to more "down to earth, good sense wrenching!
Some very nicely done fixturing there, Doc! Looking forward to seeing the next stage!
I love the way you explain and show the details on re-machining the mechanics of these 100+ year old machines. Thankyou!
Thanks for the kind words!
Very entertaining
Nice video! Well explained and clear.
Nice work! Enjoyed the video!
Did you need to scrape away any deposits in the cylinder before you pushed the piston out the front?
Yes. There was a thin layer of surface rust that needed broken.
that mag doesn't sound good hopefully its something simple need to get a cart and make new skids for mine as well ive got a 1.5
Thank you for showing that timing case internal layout! Don’t have a J.D. yet, but it gives me an idea what I’ll see when I do!