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Another manufacturing mystery! Would have been so easy to locate the QD's in a slightly different location and machine the rail slot and notch in the correct spot for the correct 11 rib side covers! Doesn't look all that bad with the 9 RIB on the sides but for an authentic M4 RAS look it just isn't right!

⁠@@peteregger7928yeah exactly. MI makes a solid product but this particular bit seems like an oversight. I can’t imagine it would’ve been difficult to solve this lol

Unfortunately a lot of American quality manufacturing is in decline. Things are just not what they used to be here anymore including our society! Most other things now come from China as well! I'm old enough to know of a different time!

Thanks for the info! I was thinking they were probably made by D&H even though they don't offer the straight walls themselves online. Probably a special run for PSA? Were the Brownells laser welded or spot welded? Thanks again!

Thanks for the info! The issue with mine ended up being the channel/slot that fits over the teeth of the barrel nut. When the two halves were put together the opening was not round and the channel/slot was slightly forward of where it should have been compared to the original Colt. The H&R which was actually a B5 would make contact with the sides of the barrel nut teeth before it could slide down for full engagement. I couldn't see a way to fix it other than fabricate a spreader and put the hand guards in an oven until they became round. Wasn't sure that would have worked either so in the trash they went! They should have also been up front with the fact that they were B5's and being sold at a premium. A form of dishonesty in my opinion! Thanks for watching and commenting!

I could tell from videos and pictures that their gray is way off and the texture didn't seem right. The first black A2 upper and lower I purchased from H&R a good while back now wasn't too bad on color matching and anodize but the last two sets were not what I would call quality. The H&R stuff isn't cheap and they are constantly selling "Blems"! I was hoping that the H&R brand would be at least a step up from the usual PSA stuff. H&R is overpriced for what you get!

Thanks John! I had taken a rasp/file to the rear mounting area of the carbine handguard thinking at first it was just a length issue. I think it unlikely PSA would have taken it back that way. I would have let them know what I did to it. I have had no issues with the multiple A2 round 20" full length handguards purchased from the H&R brand and they were very good quality. The carbine I got was junk as far as fitment! I have yet to purchase or own a Nitrided barrel. Just can't do it! Lol! A handful of stainless but the rest chrome lined. Not completely anti-change but definitely resistant! Good info on the Brownells 20 rounder! I'm sure they are fine but for the Retros I'll be looking for spot welds and straight walls. I think that prices will start to come down as the new administration begins. Historically the Democrats are always fantastic firearms salesmen! Every time a Democrat opens his mouth another 10,000 AR's get sold! Lol! Thanks again John!

Yes, the Okay has a thicker gauge metal which I failed to mention in the video but you can see it in some of the close ups! Thanks for mentioning that!

I've only got about 60 hours on it but it's doing great and no issues what so ever! I rotate thru 5 other bikes but it's back up in the line up next. The magazines were right about the frame being very stiff for the first 5 or 10 hours but since break-in has become the best off the floor suspension I have ever had! I went with the SX for off-road because I've never liked the 6 speed transmissions which is just a personal preference.

@@peteregger7928 thank you for the reply. I have a Tm Racing 300MxFi 4t and I really want add this one also to my garage also.

@@JayJay-mt2fc A TM! That's a Unicorn bike! I've always wanted to ride one of those!

If I was Geissele I don't know how happy I would be about that if not purchased from him! Do you know where your D&H with the Geissele floor plate came from?

​@@peteregger7928.. Mine is D&H marked, came direct from them. The floor plate shape/style is the same I meant.

Yep! Me too! Some of the best metal mags ever!

It happens more often then I originally thought! I have an old Colt carbine that was really bad!

They didn't look as good as the Okay Industries around the feed lip areas but if they work then good enough. They are advertised as Retro by PSA H&R and that's not even close to being accurate other than the straight walls. Being D&H could explain the Geissele floor plate? Becoming increasingly disillusioned by the Retro marketplace. You would think that with all the modern manufacturing techniques and machinery that these reproduction parts would be of much better quality but sadly and especially where furniture is concerned a lot of it is complete junk! The old school guys although not perfect for the most part knew what they were doing and cared enough to get it right before they took your money. They did it well with fewer resources available! Why can't it be done as well these days? I have a few theories and opinions about that!

@@peteregger7928 I was surprised at the handguards. They looked pretty damn good until you tried putting them on the rifle. That was pretty crappy to even be selling that stuff. The floorplate on the 20 probably just got on it by accident during assy, like you mentioned.

@@davidstevens6117 The handguard did look good. Too bad dimensionally around the barrel nut it will never work! Maybe mine was a one off but I doubt it.

I have a few of those but they are 30 rounders. All my old USGI stuff works great! I upgraded the 30's that had the black followers with Magpul anti-tilt. Never had much trouble with the USGI green ones but replaced those too. Still have all the original stuff. Wish I had the foresight back then to get a bunch of 20's! Can't remember all the different surplus versions I have but Parsons, Centerline, Sanchez, Okay Industries to name a few.

@ I’ve Got Some Parsons 30’s Black Followers They Run Flawlessly As Well 😀

When Okay Industries announced they were ceasing production I was early to the party on 30 rounders! Still late on the 20 rounders but managed to grab about 10 of them. Why I didn't buy more at the time!

Thanks Alanna! I too bought a lot of the Surefeed E2 30 rounders when I found out they were going to cease production! I got them in gray, black and FDE. They were and still are some of the best metal mags! I only bought 10 of the 20 rounders for some reason. I wish I had bought more!

Mine have been annihilated with oil! What do you recommend to remove the oil for painting? Don't want to learn anything else the hard way! Lol!

@@peteregger7928 I used rubbing alcohol on mine, but it was not too badly oiled up. I use carb cleaner on metal parts, not sure what it would do to plastic.

I would suggest trying a good polish & a soft cloth.

@@Urbicide Well they sure could use a deep clean after 30 plus years!

I have a crap load of 30 rounders but I always grab the 20's for practice. More ergonomic for sure!

I hope you're doing okay!

Me too. My old buddy Murphy!

@@Urbicide I know his brother too! Lol!

I know right! Problem has been resolved... trash can! The B5 marking had the same font and looks identical to the B5 company logo so I believe you are correct in that it was/is intentional!

Yeah never again very shady

Thanks! I have used four of their full length 20" A2 round hand guards and have had no issues. They have a smoother finish more like my old Colts and what you're describing. Figured I would have no issues with the Carbine. Wrong!

Psa scam

Thanks! Wanted the carbine hand guard for an up and coming project and have had no issues in the past using four of the H&R A2 20" hand guards. I'll start looking again but trying to find the non-oval version NOS or like "new" isn't so easy!

@@peteregger7928 It's hard to imagine, but not many years ago, those OEM Colt hand guards & fixed carry handle upper receivers were probably tossed into the can as garbage. Now they are collectibles. It happens so often with all sorts of items.

@@Urbicide Wish I had a crystal ball back then! I had no idea how valuable some of this original stuff would become! Most of the reproduction is garbage!

Yeah absolutely

Today it sure was! Lol!

Thanks for the info! Sounds like you have your hands full with all the builds and calibers! That would be fun for me getting them all dialed in!

That's a good price!

Ha! Ha! Funny!

t's a little confusing but the 400 and 500 subtend 18" wide for distance ranging but the 300 does not. The center dot is your zero at 100 yards. The top of the vertical stanchion is a BDC for 200 yards/.32 MILS/1.1MOA. The first horizontal hash is a 300 yard BDC .96 MILS/3.3MOA. The second horizontal hash is 400 yard BDC 1.77 MILS/6.1MOA but also subtends 18" wide for ranging. The third horizontal is a 500 yard BDC 2.76 MILS/9.5MOA and its width also subtends 18" for ranging. The bottom of the vertical stanchion is a 600 yard BDC 3.96 MILS/13.6 MOA. The BDC functions were primarily designed for .223/5.56 although the handbook doesn't mention velocity or bullet weight. This also works roughly the same for 308/7.62 NATO. The reticle appears simplistic but it does a crap load! We just scratched the surface here! Hope this helps!

@@peteregger7928 Thank you very much sir!

Thank you Gary!

It's a real deal Colt side sling mount and I installed it using parallel jaw pliers and the pins went right in. Not sure what the RAS weighs but it has some additional mounting hardware so probably a little heavier than the M.I.. No experience with Luth so can't speak to their quality. Finding a new or new old stock RAS with rail covers is challenging and when found some sellers and retailers are asking $500. Nope! Got the Midwest Industries carbine drop-in on sale from Battlehawk Armory for $105. Don't remember exactly what I paid for the RAS covers because I bought more than I needed but I think for 2 nine rib and 2 eleven rib around $70 total.

I didn't know there were supposed to be any notches for the RAS covers on the rails! Your comments on the first video were very helpful! I'm wondering if there was an older version of drop-in that did not have them? The QD's are still off even with the 9 rib so that's something maybe Midwest Industries could address.

@ I’m happy to engage as I love your vids, we’re into the same stuff. Yeah I wonder if those MI Gen 1 drop in rails had them, hmmm. And yes, if MI went through the trouble to notch the rails for the covers, you would think they would want the covers to not interfere with the sling mount. 🤷‍♂️

@@BenBelkin Maybe they didn't want to run the slot thru the QD opening for strength? I was thinking they could offer two versions where one would have the QD's and then one without them and be able to run the correct 11 rib all around with the slots and notches and/or QD's in the correct locations either way? Thanks for the comments Ben!

@@peteregger7928 I think that would be cool! Have a great weekend Pete, I'll be looking forward to some more of your videos.

Thanks Chris! Didn't quite get it 100% on yesterday's video!

Thanks Hybrid!

In the last videos I did on these two builds I ended up using A5 tubes with 308 rifle length springs and a standard carbine buffer length at 8.5 oz. They run perfect now with the gas port at .092". RifleSpeed adjustable gas block using the shortest plunger. Runs NATO at setting 8 and 308 Win at setting 6 at lower 20F temps. Perfect settings to adjust for adverse conditions or a suppressor. Took a few tries to crack the code but they run great now with much reduced recoil from the first stubby carbine setup! First and last LR308 builds! Lol!

I like it there! Lol!

Didn’t know that and here I am pissed that I lost mine thinking it was a must. Other than taking a few more seconds to close after cleaning I thought it was a must. Good info.

Using a 308 "stubby" in an A5 7.750" tube will allow for too much travel of the buffer with either the 308 carbine or rifle spring in conjunction with the longer 308 BCG. This allows the spring to completely compress, bind and cause damage before the buffer bumper/cushion can make contact with the back of the tube. Using the "standard" carbine buffer length in a 7.00" tube with either the 308 carbine or 308 rifle spring causes the same issue. 308 "stubby" buffer with a 308 carbine length spring and 7.00" tube only. "Standard" heavy carbine buffer length, 308 rifle length spring with the A5 7.750" tube only. Any other combination can or will cause a rifle function issue, damage or possible injury. It can be a little confusing when setting up the large caliber AR style platform. If you put together the wrong combination on the buffer system it' won't go well!

I have not tried Duramag for .223/5.56. I tried Duramag LR308/SR25 steel mags and they are in the trash. They used poorly designed followers with no anti-tilt features and caused all types of feeding issues. After switching to Magpul and Lancer all the issues went away on my LR308's. No personal experience but from what I can tell Duramag seems to be okay for AR15's?

The heavier buffer slows things down in both directions. At least in my case. Recoil was noticeably reduced and I was able to stay on target looking through the glass. That wasn't possibly with the 3.6oz 308 stubby buffer that I started with. For what it's worth even though I got mine working perfectly in the end I will never build or buy a large caliber AR style platform again! Run! Run fast! Lol!

@@peteregger7928 I am starting to feel that. AR15 are such easy builds I figured this would be the same. Not to mention even good quality budget parts seam way expensive.

@@Majja13 To get them right is much more challenging than .223/5.56. The types of ammunition between NATO/308/6.5 vary widely. A lot of people will say that you can tune them to run on anything suppressed or unsuppressed or under cold and adverse conditions with just a buffer and spring. You will need adjustable gas for a reliable large caliber AR. When they designed the FNFAL it had adjustable gas because back then they already knew this. The RifleSpeed adjustable that I used which I believe is the best on the market right now is $200. The Wilson Combat barrels were $300. The WC BCG was $300. You can see where I'm going. If you decide to build one I'll be more than happy to share my experiences and offer any help that I can.

@@peteregger7928 Thank you. Right now i have a Aero M5 upper in 308, 18on tube with an AGB (I love these things). Again thanks for the info. And I also have to say your shooting table looks way too nice to be a shooting table.

@@Majja13 Thanks! I'm sure you already know but the M5 is a "High Pattern" so if you haven't picked out a hand guard rail yet make sure it's not the "Low Pattern".

So long as you're using a triangular hand guard end cap with an FSB you should be fine. The IMI Defense Mid-length won't work with the round carbine style end caps. To my knowledge most manufacturers make their FSB Mid-lengths with triangular end caps.

@@peteregger7928 well is your mid length PSA using a triangle hand guard end caps.. I've not yet ordered my upper from PSA

@@rillwill6538 Yes, it does. The PSA hand guard is of decent quality it's just the oval profile instead of the correct A2 round on the "Classic" series that has the FSB. PSA is known for canted front sights on their FSB versions so watch out for that one! I bought these two Palmetto's out of curiosity and both had the FSB's on straight. I usually assemble my own AR's using Criterion barrels and have had a few FSB's installed and pinned by John Thomas of Retro Arms Works! He does fantastic work and both times within a one day turnaround!

@@peteregger7928 im looking for a complete nitride mid length upper with the classic grip but I can't really find much but PSA do you have any suggestions

@@rillwill6538 If your looking for affordable but still decent quality Delton or Anderson for complete rifles. Not to many manufacturers offering the complete Retro stuff. If you have a little more in the budget then building your own is the way to go. JSE Surplus sells decent upper and lower Retro receivers. H&R from Palmetto is very good but not cheap. I run my own barrels from Criterion and use known good BCG companies. I have the FSB mounted by trusted gunsmiths who will get them on straight.

Wow! That was a deal! They are supposed to start manufacturing again in about four months! We'll see?

@@peteregger7928 yeah, i’m just curious are they on daniel defense level or?

@@jupiterxqzk I don't have any personal experience with Daniel Defense but my Windham Weaponry's are as good as my Colts for fit and finish or a little better. Windham uses standard A2 FSB's on their flat tops which is not correct. Should be "F" marked which are .040" taller. They also use commercial height detachable carry handles 040" shorter because they are using the wrong FSB to make it right. They have also in the past always used commercial spec telescoping buffer tubes with commercial spec telescoping butt stocks. Other than that they are built to or exceed MilSpec. A2 butt stocks use the plastic trap doors but that's true for most manufacturers these days. You have a good rifle!

Yep! Wrong combination and bad stuff happens!

Thanks! An A1 build is definitely on the list!

Took me a few tries to crack the code but I have both of the LR308's I put together dialed in perfect! Ended up using the A5 setups on both of them and did a couple of videos showcasing the results! Kept the Heavy Buffers 308 stubby 6.5oz carbine as a spare. The stubby worked fine but the A5's were a little better using the standard carbine at 8.5oz and the 308 rifle spring.

Haven't had one that wasn't accurate yet! Six of them now!

They are both original. Original Bushmaster purchased in the early 90's before being sold to Freedom Group and the original Windham Weaponry after Richard Dyke went back into business.

No, seemed what I got from Fulton Armory was already pretty good. I suspect but don't know for sure that the FA FSB's are new old stock surplus?

It was a learning event that's for sure! Got both running great with plenty of gas adjustment in either direction. Won't be building anymore! Lol!

The Match Target had an unthreaded crowned barrel unlike the Sporter. I also have a Match Target but had the barrel threaded and installed an A2 compensator. This would annoy the Colt purist for sure! Lol! My Match Target also came with a 1:9 twist whereas my Sporter is a 1:7 twist.

@@peteregger7928 my match target has a 1/7 barrel ! My barrel is marked 5.56 my lower says 223 ! Makes me scratch my head alittle!

@@rickyshultz2051 I'm not a Colt expert by any means but I thought the Match Target rifle was 1:9. My Match Target was purchased in mid "96". Maybe they offered different twist rates for the MT's at different times?

@@peteregger7928 I don’t know either, just some little differences that make me curious! 👍

I haven't kept up with Bushmaster since they sold out to Freedom Group which was basically Remington now bankrupt and gone. I know they made them in Arkansas for a while too. The latest Bushmaster now located in Carson City, Nevada which I believe may now be part of Franklin Armory may have changed the roll stamp again? I was interested in the latest Bushmaster lower until I noticed the pictograms for the fire control markings and then it was a pass for me! Pictograms for anything retro just doesn't work!

Appreciate the feedback. Yeah I really didn’t know a thing about bushmaster when I bought these things in fact, I didn’t even pay attention to the details until I started working on them for the first time last Sunday. I just bought them dirt cheap and considered them future projects but like always vague research always comes with interest access when something sparks interest so I did get a quick rundown on the transition history while in the process. (I just can’t find out the reason for the differences) and yes I completely agree with you on the pictogram on a retro/classic style rifle it completely defeats the theme and I definitely wouldn’t want all that on mine.

@@angeldesigns1385 I haven't seen a new Carson City Bushmaster so I have no idea what they're about for fit and finish? I may try one but just not for a retro. Thanks for watching and commenting!

Ha! Ha! almost bought one back in the day! I still have an old rubberized 3-9X40 Tasco from when I was going to set up my old Sporter like a Delta back in the 90's. I imagine just the original Delta medallion grip alone would really set you back today $$$ if you could ever find one! I wonder what an original mint Delta goes for these days? Most youngsters don't even know what they are!

@@peteregger7928 My brother has one....about $2500-3000. He DOES NOT want to sell it....fired it in a few military matches and it was very accurate....no more so than my clone!

@@bobbygray496 Nice! Looking back I realize there were a lot of missed opportunities! Wish I had a crystal ball!

@@peteregger7928 I forgot to mention that because of that stupid sear block I had to get a great trigger. The only one that has the large pin Colt trigger was Geissele. I dropped it in and it fit perfect under the sear block. It was a Geissele SSA-E two stage trigger. Second stage is around 2 lbs. That made a world of difference in accurate shooting. Thank you Geissele!

@@bobbygray496 I think he's the only one left making a large pin MilSpec type that will work with the sear block. Velocity may be one of the last modular's with large pins but wont work with the sear block. When I removed the sear block on my Match Target I had called twice and talking with two different representatives was told that the sear block would have to come out. The description for the Geissele at the time did not say one way or the other. The two representatives were wrong and did not understand their own product line! I can run whatever BCG I want now so there's the silver lining to removing the sear block.

Yes! Large Dremel "reinforced" cutting wheels. Tape and cover anything that sparks or debris will hit so as not to damage the finish. Tape up the shaft and collet of the Dremel. Come down on the top and slowly angle to the sides until you can see the pins and then knock them out. You're not trying to grind out the entire sear block but only gain access to the side pins. Remove sear block with some taped up needle nose while slightly twisting. Then pull out the vertically installed roll pin at the inside bottom of receiver. Take your time and no more than two beers while doing it! Geissele makes a Colt MilSpec style large pin trigger that will work with the sear block still installed if you don't want to remove it. You will still have to run the Colt sear block bolt carrier though! Removing the sear block will allow you to run any type of BCG or large pin trigger.

@@peteregger7928 sweet deal I'm pretty close to doing it at this point as i live in a commie state now and can't get another lower !

New Frontier Armory G10 (Gen 2).