Відео

Good to hear, thanks

Handy, and if I recall that is just a 4 part op amp, so v. Low cost if it needed replacing. Hopefully the rest of the original soldering is better.

no problem

thanks

Sorry it took a while to reply. To my recollection there was a mix of #2 and #1 in the back, #2 on the left, #1 where all the cables are bunched together. If you are having to buy them then get a pair with a normal 4-5 inch long shaft, not interchangable tips which have a wider shaft. They will then be useful for any recessed screws like the recessed ones in the front. They can be taken out with #2 but I think #1 is the right size.

@@MakeOrRepair Thank you!

Absolutely! on a proper LCR meter the lower DC resistance makes the equation calculate the Capacitance as higher. I have seen some fairly extreme examples of that like 2200uF reporting as over 6000uF (in a power supply that blew the fuse). I have mentioned it in a couple of my later videos and have been pondering doing a video showing how the phase shift is used to calculate the capcitance in an LCR meter and how low DC resistance affects it - would that be worthwhile do you think.

It depends how other colours have been applied. If they have been painted of diffusion dyed then maybe, but if it is multi-coloured plastics then unlikely, remember the process reverses the chemical degradation that has occurred. If you are concerned then you could use a hair paste containing the peroxide or mask the areas you want untouched with a waterproof tape or you can get paint on masking fluids like latex. I would probably just give it a go and check from time to time.

@@MakeOrRepair yeh it was for a 1980s cherry coke can transformer and I was just hesitant it might take the red stripes and writing off

I would be incredibly cautious. In good condition these are fairly high priced and need looking after. It looks to me like a transfer or print method used to apply the red. You could perhaps try an inconspicuous spot if there is one.

Not sure what to suggest. I have seen quite a bit of discussion about problems getting comms to behave, i recall having quite a faf to get mine working, just can't remember the details. 230 vs 115 sounds like a problem with the switching.

First attempt was mainly things on hand. Switch cost is certainly an issue. I thought about 2 and 1 ohm as well, but it gets costly. I might think about it with relays in future. But what normally happens is I keep thinking how I could make it better, then it gets too expensive.

The main reason is that when testing amps with faults, I want attenuation before the analyser to help keep it safe. On thevanalyser 0 to 12db all uses same attenuation but changes the full-scale, so these impact dynamic range. The next step adds in an Attenuator at the front end but with 100k input impedance that has a big impact on the noise floor. Putting a specific attenuation in the low impedance load gives attenuation with much lower noise impact than the internal attenuation. I lose almost 40dBv of range, but no impact on noise. Using internal attenuation I would lose 24dBv range but the analyser noise floor goes up a lot. Perhaps I'll try and explain it in pt2.

Forgot about the multi-tap. Yes that would be a good idea thanks. I might add it later. I also intend to add a protective limiter on the output just in case.

Thanks for the reply! Regarding the 12db, I meant the external load available from quant asylum, rather than the analysers internal attenuator. Interesting that exists though!

Not sure how I could help, you just have to trace the wires as best you can.

Thanks already got it!

I'm trying to get around to looking at the issues with low power devices. I have not found a cheep device that can measure them well. The issue with low power is that the digitisation loses precision as you get towards the bottom so even if you do get a reading it can be 40-100% inacurate. I've also seen a request regarding what power do they measure down to and I'm going to try and do a video about that if I can get to it. If it can't even measure the voltage properly then all bets are off! I did measure a smart plug at some point and it wasn't impressive!

@@MakeOrRepair Well they need to be able to measure an imense range of current/power. It's like measuring a Voltage between 1 and 2 Volt on a 10.000V range setting. Probably you could calibrate it by filing down the shunt or adding extra solder on it as a matter of speech. Of course that 211V instead of the real 238V was a not so good thing. I have now ordered the same type of smart switch (Tuya) in Zigbee. So when I will get it I will compare it to the BT model. From what I've heard is that Zigbee uses a lot less power. Lets wait and see.

@@Luke-san Yes exacly - dynamic range is the problem - no resolution left at the bottom end - I have a lab grade power meter that goes from about 20kW down to the micro watt - but it does it by switching between many current shunts depending what sort of range it is measuring. OF course it is massive and costs a fortune! It would be great if there was a low cost meter that had say two shunts so it could auto range down into the mW range without sacrificing too much rsolution and accuracy. The design is not much more on top of what is already there, but of course it would add about £5 to the cost and they lose competitiveness.

Descaling soulds possible, just try draining the steam boiler using the little screws on the front. The output of the pump must go to some sort of pressure releif valve, so check that the water is not just cycling back into the hot water tank

It might just be scaled up I suppose. Or the bypass valve possibly. If that is weak then water goes through the pump and directly back tot he water tank. There could be problems with other blockeage int he dispensing head, try taking the shower screen out just one screwn and give it a good wash. After that things get more complicated such as various solenoid valves.

The iboost will only heat water when the sun is out and you are exporting. So you also need some other way to heat in days when the iboost is not enough or to top up the heat when needed. Mine is both gas heated and has an immersion, so the iboost is connected to immersion without timer, it heats during the day if there is enough sun, then the gas heating runs at 6am to ensure we have a full tank fir morning showers etc.

@@MakeOrRepair many thanks for the very useful answer!

@@MakeOrRepair many thanks, thats very useful Greg

Strange, I remember replying to this already

The voltage and current outputs of almost all bugdet testers are completley inadequate to properly test most MOSFETs except the tiny ones, they just dont test enough range. I've several faulty transistors that I eventually found and other than very expensive curve tracers none of the budget testers could find the fault.

No sorry, I avoid these except family/friends and charity since i retired, don't wan to further complicate my tax or have to deal with additional rates, insurace etc

Thanks for letting me know

I've taken a look, weller seem to have some nice ones, but still hoping someone produces someting better for the budget market.

Well, hard to say, not quite sure which part is leaking. I think there is a solenoid valve in that area and possibly a pipe to the side. I would have a look around and see exactly where the leak originates, it might be there is an easy to remove part that will give enough access. If is a temp sensor or pipe, you might be able to get to clip and replace oring using long bent nose pliers or forceps.

If it is using all the exported energy which is the excess solar, then the exported energy now reads zero, so when the sun goes in the inverter keeps the export at zero by using the batteries. The iboost does not have any means to know, as far as it is concerned it is just right, no idea that 3kw is from battery instead of panel. So it looks like the algorithm allows a little to always export, e.g. 100w so when the inverter switches to battery after a while the iboost realises it is taking too much and drops 100w, then the inverter reduces battery drain by 100w to match and this adjustment happens roughly every 20s, so if the iboost was allowing 3kW to the immersion then it takes almost 10 minutes before it shuts off, that is why I played with the threshold in the video, to make it work in bigger steps.

It was only thing I could afford at the time too. I don't think it helped me electronics, but the ability ti at least see something was a big step in the right direction I suppose.

Not sure of the model but if you can get it to fit maybe you can make it work

Glad it helped. Sadly had to sell it, I have pretty much used every inch of space, if only I had room to keep more. I would set up a vintage test bench.

Good point, i'll try and do a follow-on and figure it out and also how accurate are the low readings. everything is taking a long time to get to at the moment.

Sounds pretty difficult to me, but I've previously made hinges for log burners and reciprocating parts for hedge trimmers from stock metal, so nothing is beyong the determined repairer!! No parts or spares available on ebay that you could salvage from? No idea of price but JLCPCB does metal 3d printing that might do the job if you have the 3D modelling skills.

@@MakeOrRepair Just to know my gear is made of plastic like on The your camera (my model is 177x)

@@JoaoVictor-pb1ji Sorry, had forgotten what thee winding gear was like. If it will come out and is suffieciently intact to measure I might be temmpted to go the 3D route, even in a tough nylon like material they are proably farily low cost to have printed. Alternatively making it up with molding putty and casting a new piece, but both are tricky if you don't have the equipment or necessarily the experience. Attemtping to add some repair to it looks a bit tricky given the type of material used. Anyway, still wishing you luck with it.

@MakeOrRepair Just one update i tried to repair but doesn't worked but thanks for your hope on me

Well it certainly sould like your unit, not your wiring is faulty. Interesting that the boost works. The device has no real knowledge of the tank temperature, it simply assumes it is hot when it it tries, but is anable to deliver any current to it, the imersion element has its own thermostat. It seems then that the fault lies perhaps in the current sensing which would either be really easy or next to impossible to fix. I'm not aware of anyone repairing these, and I'm afraid I don't run a repair business, I am retired and just did this repair for the video, I would need all sorts of expenside insurance and ongoing certifications etc to start doing repairs on electrical fittings again. We used to get occasional things delivered for repair when I was training, so if there is a local tech college or perhaps a maker communinity place they might tackle it (or might not). Most of the information to get started is in my video. Near us there is for example a community repair centre where volunteers do all sorts of repairs and even teach people how to maintain things. Sorry can't be more help

Thanks. I found the little experiment really helped me get to grips with the derail of operation.

Well the opv that I replaced is more to do with an obstruction like over tamped coffee or limescale, so the pump delivers too much pressure. My guess would be that one of the heaters, perhaps steam, is running over temperature, and a safety valve later in the sequence is dumping the water in the tray. You could try replacing the ovp to ensure the pressure of delivered water is being limited, I would also check the triac board to ensure all the heaters are turning off when temperature is reached. I found d it tricky to trace our the "plumbing" so if those ideas don't help I would see if there are any suggestions on the site that I linked, and also there are some forums, try searching under both sage and breville and also the model number as well as the type of machine.

Good luck, just take your time.

it can be interesting to count up the amount of standby devices. with almost 8800 hous per year each 1w of standby can work out at £3 to £4 per year, but you don't need a meter to survey what you have and decide if you want to ore actively unplug things.

yes, if you only use electricity for hot water the net saving is the difference between purchase and export price

thanks, try and keep my eyes open for these

I think I've come across that compound! hope to get the repair done soon.

That would be my guess, the opto isolators should not be too hard to source. I think my description actually includes the part number I substituted which was a little higher rated.

@@MakeOrRepair damn it. I replaced all 3 opto-couplers and the off power temp has stopped but now it won't go to temp and stops at 75decC. so before it was over temp (same at 15:00) and now with opto-couplers replaced, it won't go to 90deg. wonder if I blew the triacs for not replacing the opto-couplers at the same time? I'm getting 101ohms between red and blue for hotwater.

Thanks, always nice to get some background.

The displays tend to be hard to come by. Not familiar with your particular model, but sometimes reheating the joints where the flat flex from the LCD is soldered onto the controller board can help if it is a clear flex with visible traces in it (and not terminated with a socket) - just press a flat soldering iron bit (about 270C) hard onto the place where each trace terminates onto the board - you are just trying to reflow the solder so not too much. After that you could ask Sharp nicely but I doubt they will help, or look out for a second hand one.

Thank you so much for taking the time to reply. I am not so confident with the idea of dismantling the "beast". But will ask either a friend or a local electrician. Many thanks again!@@MakeOrRepair

Always good to hear, thanks.

Not sure what you are doing with yours, but this was my only repair in about 5-years. As dometstic machines go I've also tried delongi and Gaggia and both were far more plastic...

​@@MakeOrRepair perhaps this person wants to eliminate plastics and regress back to preindustrial society.

Glad to hear

Tjanks

Yes, I wanted to encourage people to look at all sides of the subject, not just the savings in the adverts. Since i made the video, it has only been worth me using it for a few months while my export tariff was pathetic and gas trebled in price. I'm a little out of touch with the cost of installation but it could easily negate any savings.

Ten years? we've had two in less than 5 years I'm not buying another there now £300 each

@@250190baileyI find it disturbing how many reports of them failing I've received. I would choode a different product if I bought again. Then again for me it has never been cost effective.