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Great video. Well done. One aspect to think about. When you are reducing draw weight. The group improvement could also come from you. Lower poundage can help to keep your bow arm steadier. How to separate this from the effect on spine?

the problem i see with your setup is your arrow is inside your riser at full draw and that can also lead to not only very dangerous but also throw out your spine.. . also keep in mind any wind will also throw out your windage as well. i just set up a new fast eddie xl on my mathews and 20 and 30 yards for sure my windafe is perfect but once you ho out even more the windage goes to hell and that is expected at distance.. the other problem people have is to weak of poundage and i had to crank up my poundage to to get my 60 yards.but windage was still off due to wind but all my arrows no matter what always land dead straight.. bare shaft tuning by they was is an unneeded waste of timefor compound uses that are doing general target shooting and hunting unless your running .0001 straightness and most shoot .006 to .003 only anything more then that is wasting money on on arrows, i have to agree tho the charts are total BS i was running 500 spine and now run 400 spine with 340s they need alot more power then i can even pull right now and rightnow my hunting bow is at about 60 lbs .. you last results will spread out alot more once you get to 40 plus yards to and with wind even more.. thats where heavy arrows will have to start to come in at longer range to avoid drift .. my main hunting bow tho really does not like 500 spine either way, i run a mathews mission hammr its a sweet bow .. either way even at 60lbs its not going to kill anything at 60 yards no power left and most hunters hunt with in 35 yards or less less is better ..

Easton arrow mag makes a great arrow spine / to bow weight chart you can find on line . Learn how to paper tune an arrow to the bow.

Nock left does not always mean too weak. Depends on a lot more than spine alone.

I've experienced that if you put a little hot melt in the end of the shaft as well as on the insert, the bond will be stronger. If you only put it on the insert, the edge of the shaft will push most of it out and the bond won't be as strong. when you put some in the end of the shaft, the glue that is pushed out gets replaced by what you put in the end of the shaft. Just make sure you heat the end of the shaft so the glue is not set when you insert the insert. This is only from my experience so, there may be some debate about this. Thanks for the video by the way ❤.

Great video keep them coming

Great video and information as always. I wonder (if I may) if it would’ve been easier to shoot the arrow with the weaker spine against another arrow with a stiffer spine (if they were very close in weight) to show how much difference there could be. I was able to find within the same manufacturer an arrow close in weight but with a stiffer spine and the gap between the two spines were significant. Just a thought.

Good video man very good what kind of paper where you using for your paper tuning

Great info, did you reset your centershot after cranking the SET all the way left? Also, it would be great to see a follow up on checking for too stiff of spine.

Great vid. Very methodical and clear and all in one spot that new viewers don’t have to go down 20 rabbit holes and then try and piece a methodology together. I will say though that you have to be careful of the type of cam on your bow. I shoot a bow tech solution SS at 60lb, 28.5 inches. My arrows are 460 grain 350 spine with decent FOC. Anyone would think that with 200 grain total on the front that 350 spine would be ok but it’s just not the case. Opposite to you in this vid I’m all the way right with the cams and the rest is left of centre. I think the way the cam initially accelerates the arrow is huge. My bow has a long valley and what feels like 85 % letoff. There is no way it is imparting anything like the force into an arrow that a solution SR350 would with less letoff and no valley. I strongly suspect I actually need to soften my arrows for my poundage and cam type.

I wonder if you are better off testing in the horizontal plane and allowing gravity to have an effect as this effect is also present when shooting. The arrow is now being tested in a vertical plane that is different than when the arrow is actually being shot.

Great job matt and yes the spine charts all need to be updated

I appreciate your detail and admire your patience .

All the well known big name archery influencers want you to trust the industry, and rely on the proshops, but IME the industry and the average proshops will set you up to fail, on certain aspects.

Just use 3 vanes...

If I’ve learned nothing else, it’s that weak arrows are hard to tune well. It’s better to be too stiff than even just a little weak. Go up a spine! You might be surprised how much better your bow shoots.

Well done! Great information for the newbie archer. I don’t know how many times over the years I’ve seen people at the range that have no clue as to the information you’ve given here. They have arrows poking in every direction out of the target bail. These are mostly with hunting bow setups. What happens is they are looking for speed in a lighter shaft then stick 175-200 grain head on it and have no idea what is happening. Spine changes with added weight and they don’t know this apparently. There’s so much available information like yours it’s crazy people don’t use it.

Great video Matt! Thanks for sharing!

Interesting. Other videos I have seen has always suggested moving the rest first before going the cam lean route - although if it were that easy to adjust I might try that too. I shoot an old Mathews Conquest 2 and am having problem getting some new arrows to shoot bullet holes. The Q2 does not have split limbs and I misplaced the shim kit that came with the bow long ago. Too be fair I have made a fair amount of adjustments to the bow over time so I am going to take your advice and go back to square one then start from there. Excellent video sir !!

Interesting series. I am going to give that bend test a try with my new GT Pierce target arrows. As for the fletching jig. I tell you brother I did not want to spend $100 for a Bitzenburger fletching jig just because it was supposed to be the best. But I was done with the plastic one I had been using so I picked up a MSJumper from Amazon and it is an excellent jig for around $40 To be fair I have never used a Bitzenburger but based on the videos I have seen, like this one, I will stack MSJumper up against it any day of the week. Makes fletching arrows a pleasure not a chore. Well made, easy to adjust and setup, smooth finish and the machining is top notch. The only negative is it they do not have a helical holder, or at least did not when I bought mine in 2021. I have found so many things in archery, like the arrows you are using here, that will do the job just as well or better than things that cost twice as much. Anyway, enjoying the series brother.

Mine still like to fly funny

Can I bend test a 20 inch cross bow bolt

This doesn’t work

How far are you from the paper ?

Been using these for over a decade, love the simplicity.

Not to bogart on your video but if you are building heavier arrows i would also watch inside out precision channel, the video is "bare shaft tuning 2.0" wish i did before i built mine, 29" arrow easton 5mm axis, 300 spine, 75g insert, 535g total, 65 pound draw and my spine was still too weak, shot bullet hole with bare shaft and fletched on paper, but at 20 yards my bare shaft was far right which means shaft is too weak, either need to cut them down to make them stiffer or needed a stiffer arrow

Great attention to detail! Thanks for another great video Mat!

what was the flinch on the second shot?

Nice batch. A couple of seasons ago I was running a very similar set up. Black eagle carnivores 100gr brass inserts, 125gr heads for a total of 525. Great “do all” weight. Another winner, bud.

I’ve wrestled with 200 grain points and 25 grain inserts or 125 grain points and 100 grain inserts. I haven’t yet but I’m thinking shooting better point steel and weight might be worth it?

I never realized until I got archers advantage a few weeks ago that fletching weight not only changes mass weight and f.o.c. But it also makes the spine weaker/stiffer. For example,heavier fletching makes it weaker. I understand how and why it does that but I never knew it does that

Is there any particular reason you like a 550 grainer versus a lighter faster 450 grain?

I just bought a clamp for this. I'm gonna give it a try. I have a fat stack of bare shafts to fletch. So I'll do this first and shoot em through paper. Thanks for posting this.

I enjoy building my building my own arrows. It kind of makes it personal to know that’s my own. I match the components in weight and get each one with in less than .4 grains of each other last set I done 522 grains love the video.

Liked/Subscribed - I like your common sense methods of tuning. Every bow & arrow combo has to be worked with in order to get ""it"" to shoot great. The way you're getting there appears to work- and that's what matters. I have friends who think they can go buy a $2,000.oo set-up and wala- they've got a top-flight bow that's more accurate than other folks 5 year old bow.

How do you like your matrix target? Thinking of getting the box one and slowly turning it into a wall target but haven’t found any reviews.

You could also put a corner angle on that end (the bow stand), to provide extra protection, even though the sticker you placed might hold it well. Well done filing the cam.

Tough luck and good fix!! I bet you’re extra glad you got that press now!!

I watched the video, went and bought a clamp, and I'm amazed! All of my arrows are flying better than ever. And my funky fliers are fixed now. Great stuff! Thank you 👍👍

A couple months ago I had my bow sitting in the livingroom. My 5 year old daughter walked up to it and cranked on the micro windage adjustment, which was locked, and fully stripped it out lol!

Welp... The content here is the silver lining I guess. Thanks for taking us through it together :)

You’re not living if you haven’t dropped one of your bows on the concrete. 😂 Nice fix. Let me know how it works out for you. If you need anything and I am able to help, give me a call.

Drag a q-tip through the cam groove

Dang it! What a bummer.

Can you hook up a vacuum to it?

But, Mat, I don't understand. Those are corrections on the bow, not the arrow. Wouldn't it mess up the other arrows that are already set? (Clearly not bc I saw how the fletched arrow stuck to the target too, I just don't understand how).

Thanks for the video. Been going back and forth - newer to the sport; been getting pretty confused with all the releases out there and price points. Keep coming back to the bone collector and this video settled it for me.

I've brought gold tip great arrows there great now but just brought black eagle vintage arrows green and yellow.

When you shoot the arrow in your bow it’s horizontal not vertical. I see how gravity could come I to play but it also will do the same when you’re shooting out your bow. Cheers great conversation

I normally do the bend test, mark the weak side. Ratate the arrow numerous times without checking. Then do the test again. 98% of the time i will get exactly same side. Better to do more than two spins