Відео

Hi Marc, no. There were no spacers when I disassembled the handbrake, and I did not fit any when I installed the handbrake assembly. I have since finished the car and everything works nicely from a handbrake perspective.

Those clamps are an absolute godsend. I hope they work for you.

Apparently, this thermostat design is only related to the Series II with Strombergs. Since I fitted the correct thermostat with full opening at 74 deg C my engine temps via the dashboard gauge have been very consistent. Cross referencing the upper and lower hose temperatures with the temperature gauge reading has given me confidence about my engine temperatures.

Hi Ehab, I like the comment on the infrared thermometer gun temperature measurement being taken on the black hose. I will take a look at that. The thermostat bypass on my car is permanently open and feeds directly into the radiator next to the top hose connection. In the video you can see the bypass hose connected to the radiator - it is where I took the top hose measurement.

That hose is the air bleed to help bleed air when refilling coolant. The bypass goes back the the pump, look under the thermostat housing

@@EhabSahawneh Ok, interesting. I am going to double check this.

Ok, I see what you are saying. You are referring to the hose that goes back to the water pump from the thermostat housing. While the thermostat is closed the water continues to circulate through the engine.

@@EhabSahawneh Hi Ehab, I have followed up on this and I will make a short video to highlight the points you were making. Measuring the temperature on the black hoses does make it easier to get s stable reading. Thank you so much for the comments. They were incredibly useful, and I learned several new things from them.

Yeah John, I just rebuilt (last year) my engine on my '65 e type and the fan comes on right around 70C. I also upgraded to an aluminum radiator and it seems to be better than the original. I don't have the car ready for the road yet to test it in a driven state. Stationary it doesn't overheat. Today is supposed to be 93 F in Ann Arbor so I'll let it run for a half hour or so and see how it does.

@@stangraff800 Hi Stan, let me know how that goes.

Hi, right now I have my fans on full time. Once I have more confidence with my engine temp being okay then I will switch to the using the temp setting to activate the cooling fans.

@@johncooper6950 I let it idle for 30 minutes yesterday and the garage was 91F. The water temp climbed to the tic mark between 70C and 110C which I think is 90C or 194F. Everything was stable and no boiling over. The rpm was right around 700 with a rev (by me) every few minutes. I think if the car had been moving the temp would have been much lower. At 700 rpm the water pump isn't pumping very much. I'm confident that I shouldn't have cooling problems when I get finally get the car on the road.

@@stangraff800 Very cool!! Keep going Stan, its all worth it in the end!

Thank you

Thank you

Hi Nial, thank you. The subframe was powder coated.

Hi Dave - I think if you send your set up first I can take a look and then create a direct copy of the same shot of my car..

@@johncooper6950 john, thanks for the reply. Unfortunately I not really sure the best way to send you the pic. Suggestions?

@@johncooper6950 Thanks John. Any suggestion on how I can get the pic to you?

Let me know when you read that response

Hi JDL, this took me a while to figure out. In the early Series II and Series I the starter relay is inside the car just below the passenger side glove box. On my Series II (71) and on the Series III (I believe) the starter motor relay is on the engine bay bulkhead just near the windscreen fluid bottle. Jaguar did not modify the main harness when they made this change but they kept the original starter motor relay wiring and added a separate harness that connects into the main harness to connect up to the new fire wall starter motor relay position. The red and white wire you are talking about, coming from inside the passenger foot well, is no longer needed in my car as it relates to the internal starter motor relay position and is made redundant by the new relay position (firewall). After I had everything wired in and had the car running for some time I eventual had the guts to cut the main wiring harness wire related to the internal relay position. The cutting of the redundant wiring was also done on my original wiring harness as fitted by the factory. Keeping the old wiring harness was a massive help in solving this. If needed, I can send you specific photos of how I ended up solving this. It did take me some time to resolve. Hope this helps - John

@@johncooper6950 Thanks very much for your response. That makes sense. After I sent you this I rewatched your video on the dashboard harness where you talk about that. The other thing I’m having trouble with is the brown wire from the ignition. It seems to go from the ignition switch to the same area behind the glove box (brown wire, red/white yellow/white) The wire schematic has it going to the binding post near the battery. I might be tracing it incorrectly or perhaps I’m missing something. Yes, any photos would be greatly appreciated! Thanks so much!

@@jdlwarnett I will try and take some video and pics without taking my car apart a bit later today. wiring my ignition switch also took me some time to figure out. I will put this on a short video and then send you the link.

@@johncooper6950 that would be fantastic! That you so much!

@@jdlwarnett Ok, lets see if this link works for you. The video is a bit messy as space is tight in the car (as you know) Ther are some photos at the end ua-cam.com/video/POF7A-zgW2U/v-deo.html

Thank you

I do have to say that I would not fit a another one having gone through the suspension set and got the car on the road. The production setup process is robust.

Hi Arthur, I have never worked on a Series I so I cant help on this occasion. I can say that the sequence I used for the Series 2 works out really well.

Just this video

Hi Arthur - no you can remove the circlip type connector from each end of the linkage assembly.

Hi - for reassembly on the bench you simply have the castle nut tightened just finger tight to hold everything in place. Then when you install it in the car you set the bearing tightness. Take a look at this video - ua-cam.com/video/lZPrDwkiiiA/v-deo.html The title is - Jaguar E Type Series II Rebuild - 2023-02-12 - Front Axel Assembly and Steering Rack This is a later video showing the installation in the car. In this video, I referenced a video from Richard Owen, with a link in the text and I followed his lead for the assembly. Richard does restoration for a living and has a very strong track record, he has helped me personally numerous times. Richard builds the front hub assembly on the vehicle and then sets the bearing preload. I personally still think you can build the front hub assembly on the bench, then install it on the car and set the bearing preload while on the car. You can choose the method you prefer. If in doubt, I suggest you follow Richards method. Ultimately you are limited on the preload to the castellated nut position and split pin assembly. I have a few miles on my car now and in the spring I am going to check the wheel bearing preloads now the car has settled a bit. I hope this helps - John

Thanks John, that’s great!

Thanks for the compliment, James. You were on the edge of your seat - you should have seen some of the other methods I tried!! LOL. Take your time with it. Don't be put off if you fail a few times trying to get the set up done correctly. It's all worth it in the end and my trunk lid works great with the new springs in place!! You might need to repaint (or touch up) the brackets after you assemble the springs. Getting the springs on was hard enough so I was happy to do the touch up afterwards instead of worrying about damaging bracket paint work as I did the assembly.

my suggestion is to go for it - take your time - take lots of photos of the old system.

Hi Todd, I have used Dynamat in several restorations now and I can say that I have no issues with it. I don't have a comparison of with and without the dynamat to share but it does keep the heat down in the cockpit. For NVH reduction I am sure it does work but an e type is not a stellar vehicle from an NVH perspective regardless. On the three point belt system I have an issue with belt retraction in the retractor due to the tortuous belt path when the convertible top is down and the top cover is on. I need to see how I can improve that and this is TBD. When the top is up the belt system works fine and I am very happy with it. Hope this helps - John

Yes it does John thanks. I've seen the retractor in the boot before and may check it out. I'll give the dynamat a go as well but more for sound insulation. Another question for you. Did you plate your accelerator linkage on the firewall? They look tremendous!

Hi Todd - I plated and painted my linkages. I bought a plating kit and had some decent success with it at home - I made a video about that and posted it. In some cases, I got a better result after painting the part compared to my home plating capability. @@toddnicholls3138

@johncooper6950 wow a combination. You can't tell. I watched your plating video. John Carry's as well. I cleaned my accelerator bits on the wire brush on my bench grinder. Looks good but won't last. I'll visit a local plating shop and see what they say. Man I'm out of workbench space for adding more stuff to! Thanks again John

Hi Colin, this is a good idea but will need to wait until late Spring now. I can say that what I learned and where I went wrong could fill a book. The end result though is ungodly from my perspective and worth every second and every dollar. The most significant thing that happened was getting help from a vast array of people who really knew what they were doing. The support was incredible and very much appreciated.

@@johncooper6950 Maybe also provide a list of vendors and people you went to for advice. Sorry I keep making work for you :)

Hi Robert, not in this video. I added them after the car was on the ground and fully loaded with weight. At that point I tightened all the suspension bolts and nuts and added split pins at that point.

It may not be the best method, but I got it to work for me. Go slow and take your time.

Hi Taylor, unfortunately I don't have them any longer otherwise I would have let you have them for zero. They are well gone.

I just saw your name was Keith!! My Bad!

Hi, John. This is a great video. You did. I thought I commented before, but it must not have went through. I have a quick question. I was wondering if there was A. Way, I could speak with you via phone call. Or text or even possibly Facetime. I have the same vehicle in the same set up. I'm trying to install for a customer. And I have run across some issues with fitment. Any recommendations or suggestions would be highly appreciate it.I can be reached via email at uniqueauto1999@gmail.com Thanks in advance​@johncooper6950

SU's and not webers?

It's your choice, but Jaguar designed the E-Type engine to use SU's, Weber would increase you fuel consumption. @@johncooper6950

Silly comment. With zero merit !

@@Looney2021please google BABVVO and TEBBVO laws in Germany from 2027 on

Hi Richard - no real update. The car is running really well and is about to be put away for the winter. First oil change went well, and some engine bay related rattles and squeaks resolved. I did have a fuel pump issue related to an intermittent electrical fault on the new pump. Once the fault was located it was fixed with a new pump. The car is driving as good as it looks and is pure joy to experience. From next spring, I might make some road trip related videos.

Hi Arthur - thank you. The seals were "spot" fitted so that we (well Nick) could play with door fitment. Those seals were then removed and refitted after vinyl/chrome strip was fitted.

Thank you !

Personal registration plates in Michigan cost next to nothing (like <$10). All they care about is if your plate request is Unique. It means you can get very creative.

You guys have been my number one fan from the start!

Hi Joe, thank you for the compliments. There were a few discrepancies in the after market wiring diagrams I was using also. The oddest was that my center panel gauges were not positioned as per the wiring diagram. The most useful wiring diagrams, but hardest to read, are in the workshop manual. I would trust that manual more than anything else. I don't think you are missing anything. I personally found that the physical wiring harness layout dictated which side of the fuse the wires were attached. Taking endless photos and then more, plus video of the original car installation is critical. Also keeping the old harnesses proved to be a god send as a cross check against the new ones. It took me at least 30 hours to correctly fully install the wiring beneath the instrument panel. Keep at it - the end result is worth it. John

Thanks for the reply! I feel much better knowing that and just purchased the Jaguar service manual. I wish I had pictures but the car was partially restored (to about 60%) complete by somebody else when I purchased it. I’m trying to finish it up and still accessing all the parts that are missing. There are a bunch of parts missing lol If there is any way to see your rebuild pictures that would be extremely helpful and I would be very grateful. Thanks again John!

Hi Joe, I dont take rebuild pictures - I do take strip down pics - that said - Take a look at ua-cam.com/video/bcx-9CJC1Gw/v-deo.html This is the dashoard harness video. This might help you @@jdlwarnett

Also this is the driver side instrument panel wiring video ua-cam.com/video/xRW01hT_fV4/v-deo.html

This is the Center console wiring video - this was the hardest to get right ua-cam.com/video/kotRjev3OU0/v-deo.html

You must not be at work then Wayno! LOL

Huibert, thank you, that really means a lot coming from you. For the video, it is all your fault - Snaggle Frazzle Dick Dastardly. You still owe me that special photo!

Adding the music was as much fun as doing the car.