Feel free to reach out if you get stuck. Make sure you have all the right clips for connecting the linkages. They can easily get lost and they are super important. Don't grease anything until the last second, it gets everywhere (at least with me it does)
I'm going to go out on a limb and re-skin my driver door. Many people have said to not do it. haha. I'm going to use the impact device which "zips" the seam instead of using a hammer-over technique. Your doors are WAY better than mine. I could get away with refurbishing but I'm going to re-skin anyway... When I do add the hardware back I'll look forward to using your video to make sure I use the best sequence. Thanks for your videos. They save me hours...(in Ann Arbor). And yes, the temps in the 70s and 80s are a long overdue welcomed development.
Hi Stan - the driver side door is original, but the passenger side door is reskinned by Nick the Magician. My car had been in a pretty bad accident at some point and the repair was "less than optimal". There is a video showing the strip down (ua-cam.com/video/eKI4bq1r6RI/v-deo.html). I went back and looked at this video several times myself. Personally, I think if you think it needs doing then do it. Its your car. Reach out if you ever need anything - I am only 45-60 mins from you.
Showing where that screw is to regulate the height the window goes up is fantastic. Thanks. But when I am trying to move it, I can only get it to move a small amount and the window still goes up about 1/4’ too high. Suggestions?
beautiful. I think you have the weatherstrip already fitted on A, B post and also on the sill am I correct? Will that interfere with fitting the vinyl to the sills and the sill chrome strip? (music is distracting)
Hi Arthur - thank you. The seals were "spot" fitted so that we (well Nick) could play with door fitment. Those seals were then removed and refitted after vinyl/chrome strip was fitted.
Are there any areas where you can grease some parts so the window slides down smoother and easier? On my car it's a little hard to roll down. Thanks for the videos.
Hi Benny - on my car I have greased the frame slide at the striker end of the door (B post) - this makes a big difference. I greased this after the frame and glass support channel were assembled. However, I think the biggest area to grease is the glass support channel (BD21020 - BD21021 for my OTS). That channel might also need a really good cleaning if they were anything like mine. I also greased the clock spring on the window regulator assembly. It all helps - John
@arthur1920 the foreward seal goes on before the door,or u limit access to where u can bond it nice nice,and it moves around..the sill vinyl is fit prior to the lower door seal,into the track and under the seal,best to fit the chrome edge before the seal..u might hang the door and mark the hinge edges w tape to allign it all first if it's all been apart,it's a lot easier to adjust the door with no resistance from compressing the new gaskets 👌
I adjusted the door with no gaskets. The door s empty right now except ext. handles. Do you suggest I remove the door then fit the forward weather strip, then the rear weatherstrip then put the door back? (plan on sending out the car for upholstery)@@brucecolby5016
On a series 1, the regulator has to go in from the bottom. I cant tell whether the unlock mechanism goes in first or second and whether or not it goes in complete with lock assembly and if the lock assembly should go in connected to the door lock when it goes.
Hi Arthur, I have never worked on a Series I so I cant help on this occasion. I can say that the sequence I used for the Series 2 works out really well.
Hi Hugh, I got my door seals from MOSS and I am very happy with them - there are two - one outer (MOSS # - BD16700 - Door Top Seal) and one inner (MOSS # - BD20010/3 - Brush Seal). They also had the clips needed for each seal type. There is also a window channel felt that is available from MOSS (38-2020/1). My other go to parts supplier is Welsh in Ohio - www.welshent.com/ Hope this helps - John
Looking good John! Can't wait for first-drive.
Grant, thank you! The first drive is getting really close. Hope all is well in sunny Az!
Thanks heaps for posting that sequence. I’m a while away from putting mine back together, but this will be a big help 👍
Feel free to reach out if you get stuck. Make sure you have all the right clips for connecting the linkages. They can easily get lost and they are super important. Don't grease anything until the last second, it gets everywhere (at least with me it does)
nice to see garage door open and spring starting to arrive! Even more reason to be excited about completing your project ;-)
Amen to all that! Spring came to Michigan overnight!
Spring came with a bang - at last!
There is still quite a bit left to do but it is coming along.
I'm going to go out on a limb and re-skin my driver door. Many people have said to not do it. haha. I'm going to use the impact device which "zips" the seam instead of using a hammer-over technique. Your doors are WAY better than mine. I could get away with refurbishing but I'm going to re-skin anyway... When I do add the hardware back I'll look forward to using your video to make sure I use the best sequence. Thanks for your videos. They save me hours...(in Ann Arbor). And yes, the temps in the 70s and 80s are a long overdue welcomed development.
Hi Stan - the driver side door is original, but the passenger side door is reskinned by Nick the Magician. My car had been in a pretty bad accident at some point and the repair was "less than optimal".
There is a video showing the strip down (ua-cam.com/video/eKI4bq1r6RI/v-deo.html). I went back and looked at this video several times myself.
Personally, I think if you think it needs doing then do it. Its your car.
Reach out if you ever need anything - I am only 45-60 mins from you.
Thanks. do you have a video of installing the window frame, window and seals?
Just this video
Showing where that screw is to regulate the height the window goes up is fantastic. Thanks. But when I am trying to move it, I can only get it to move a small amount and the window still goes up about 1/4’ too high. Suggestions?
beautiful. I think you have the weatherstrip already fitted on A, B post and also on the sill am I correct? Will that interfere with fitting the vinyl to the sills and the sill chrome strip? (music is distracting)
Hi Arthur - thank you. The seals were "spot" fitted so that we (well Nick) could play with door fitment. Those seals were then removed and refitted after vinyl/chrome strip was fitted.
Are there any areas where you can grease some parts so the window slides down smoother and easier? On my car it's a little hard to roll down. Thanks for the videos.
Hi Benny - on my car I have greased the frame slide at the striker end of the door (B post) - this makes a big difference. I greased this after the frame and glass support channel were assembled.
However, I think the biggest area to grease is the glass support channel (BD21020 - BD21021 for my OTS). That channel might also need a really good cleaning if they were anything like mine.
I also greased the clock spring on the window regulator assembly.
It all helps - John
Tip..put sill vinyl on before doors.
do you put the weatherstrip on before the doors? And do you put the the sill weatherstrip on before the vinyl?
@arthur1920 the foreward seal goes on before the door,or u limit access to where u can bond it nice nice,and it moves around..the sill vinyl is fit prior to the lower door seal,into the track and under the seal,best to fit the chrome edge before the seal..u might hang the door and mark the hinge edges w tape to allign it all first if it's all been apart,it's a lot easier to adjust the door with no resistance from compressing the new gaskets 👌
I adjusted the door with no gaskets. The door s empty right now except ext. handles. Do you suggest I remove the door then fit the forward weather strip, then the rear weatherstrip then put the door back? (plan on sending out the car for upholstery)@@brucecolby5016
On a series 1, the regulator has to go in from the bottom. I cant tell whether the unlock mechanism goes in first or second and whether or not it goes in complete with lock assembly and if the lock assembly should go in connected to the door lock when it goes.
Hi Arthur, I have never worked on a Series I so I cant help on this occasion. I can say that the sequence I used for the Series 2 works out really well.
Must one fit the door lock and the door lock assembly as a complete unit?
Hi Arthur - no you can remove the circlip type connector from each end of the linkage assembly.
John, two years ago I rebuilt my -69 doors but could not source the seals (fury strips). Can you recommend any one?
Hi Hugh,
I got my door seals from MOSS and I am very happy with them - there are two - one outer (MOSS # - BD16700 - Door Top Seal) and one inner (MOSS # - BD20010/3 - Brush Seal). They also had the clips needed for each seal type.
There is also a window channel felt that is available from MOSS (38-2020/1).
My other go to parts supplier is Welsh in Ohio - www.welshent.com/
Hope this helps - John