I think it’s hard to do the measuring correctly. The chain will hit that chain guard before it reaches the upper position so that upper value will not be correct measured. I also find it hard to “back out” the adjustment bolts as you did here the wheel won’t follow out so the adjustment bolts will be lose. Like with the guitar strings I prefer to tighten the adjusters to the correct adjustment instead of loosen them to the correct position. and I find it hard because a quarter of a turn is almost always too much 😊. I also sometimes find it hard to find the tightest segment of the chain to do that measuring. I’m sometimes a little bit too analytic for my own best 😂. I don’t know if it’s the same on your bike, when the bike is on the center-stand the 100Nm seems to be just before when the front wheel leave the floor. That’s off course depending on if the ground is leaning. But some where in that “area”. I guess that if I have to adjust the chain in a situation where I don’t have the torque wrench I might be able to get close enough until I have my tqw 🤔
You're right, the chain always touches the guard when the correct distance is measured. I bit odd, but I don't think there's enough play for it to actually slap when riding. I love that top tip about guitar tuning reference, I do exactly the same when tuning the guitar, always tune up from flat. So makes sense to do the same with the adjustment screw. In fact I'm going to turn them both a quarter slack and a quarter tight again to make sure. Really good point, I'll always do that from now. 👍🏻👍🏻
@@MotoBrit I guessed that you should like that guitar reference 😁I guess there’s a reason why to do that on the guitar and probably the reason applies to the adjusters to. I have never heard it though it just a guessing, but it feels more correct to do it that way. The guitar is a tad more sensitive than the chain on the bike, it’s not the same tolerances 😂.
I've not done long distances with 2 up and luggage, but quite a few weekend trips. There's a setting for it on the suspension which you probably know, and I think that helps. You can also make an additional change to go firm or soft. We've had some great rides with no problems, and no loss of power or handling issues. Funnily enough, I never do videos when I'm out with my wife, because we always have our headsets connected to chat and listen to music. Maybe I should do a specific video.
You did a good video, HOWEVER...Don't forget to mention to RE tighten the Axel nut. Some guys may see your video and hear you say " your ready to go" and take your work for it. I know this is nick picking, but it is minor point , but if forgotten.. a Major point..
Sometimes yes. Even when the chain is set correctly it can still hit the plastic casing above, when rolling over bumps at slow speed. I've heard others complain about this, so I think it's normal.
I've got the F850gs which requires 40 to 50mm of free play which is impossible to measure !! I've learned that its got to be just clear of the centre stand cross member when the centre stand is up. Adjust it on centre stand then drop it onto side stand to check its clear.
+MOTO MELTDOWN ... sometimes it not easy, but you know it's a bit slack so you just give it a 'best guess' tighten and ride knowing you've at least made it a little better, if not perfect.
A torque wrench is a tightening tool. It is a very sensitive and precise tightening tool, and should never been used to loosen bolts. Also NEVER assume your wheel is in alignment unless you did the previous adjustment. Don't trust the shop to do it right and don't trust the marks on the swingarm. I use an alignment tool to make sure. If I may make a suggestion perhaps mention the tightening torque for the axle nut.
This video was a GODSEND 😂 Never had to do this stuff myself before - at 54 I'm learning on a daily basis.
Thank you 😊
We're the same age... It's when you start to learn the important stuff in life I think! 😄👍🏻
As a new F750gs owner, thank you! Saved me searching for a video on how to do it. Great channel. Shiny side up :)
+Jamie D ... That's great. Glad it's at least helped one person. Appreciate the feedback, thanks very much. 🍻
@@MotoBritHi! I just want to say thank you, your video helped me too! Br //M
@@mhult5873 That's great!! Thanks.
You're very welcome - Thank you, too.@@mhult5873
You made it look easy!
Superb, thanks MB .. very helpful 👍
My pleasure 😊
@gpzfan5272it's all correct. The chain was loose, and I tightened it. I wasn't launching a satellite into space!
@gpzfan5272 Ok. 🤦🏻♂️
I think it’s hard to do the measuring correctly. The chain will hit that chain guard before it reaches the upper position so that upper value will not be correct measured. I also find it hard to “back out” the adjustment bolts as you did here the wheel won’t follow out so the adjustment bolts will be lose. Like with the guitar strings I prefer to tighten the adjusters to the correct adjustment instead of loosen them to the correct position. and I find it hard because a quarter of a turn is almost always too much 😊.
I also sometimes find it hard to find the tightest segment of the chain to do that measuring. I’m sometimes a little bit too analytic for my own best 😂. I don’t know if it’s the same on your bike, when the bike is on the center-stand the 100Nm seems to be just before when the front wheel leave the floor. That’s off course depending on if the ground is leaning. But some where in that “area”. I guess that if I have to adjust the chain in a situation where I don’t have the torque wrench I might be able to get close enough until I have my tqw 🤔
You're right, the chain always touches the guard when the correct distance is measured. I bit odd, but I don't think there's enough play for it to actually slap when riding. I love that top tip about guitar tuning reference, I do exactly the same when tuning the guitar, always tune up from flat. So makes sense to do the same with the adjustment screw. In fact I'm going to turn them both a quarter slack and a quarter tight again to make sure. Really good point, I'll always do that from now. 👍🏻👍🏻
@@MotoBrit I guessed that you should like that guitar reference 😁I guess there’s a reason why to do that on the guitar and probably the reason applies to the adjusters to. I have never heard it though it just a guessing, but it feels more correct to do it that way. The guitar is a tad more sensitive than the chain on the bike, it’s not the same tolerances 😂.
OBTW: my last bike was shaft drive, I’d love to see your chain clean/lube technique.
+Mr. 2D74 ... It's here somewhere. Look for the video "10 min ore ride clean and maintenance." Cheers. 👍🏻
Hi Dean,i'm struggling to find information on the 750 how is it 2 up and with luggage? If you have any info it would be much appreciated.
I've not done long distances with 2 up and luggage, but quite a few weekend trips. There's a setting for it on the suspension which you probably know, and I think that helps. You can also make an additional change to go firm or soft. We've had some great rides with no problems, and no loss of power or handling issues. Funnily enough, I never do videos when I'm out with my wife, because we always have our headsets connected to chat and listen to music. Maybe I should do a specific video.
You did a good video, HOWEVER...Don't forget to mention to RE tighten the Axel nut. Some guys may see your video and hear you say " your ready to go" and take your work for it. I know this is nick picking, but it is minor point , but if forgotten.. a Major point..
Yeah, good point. I did it after filming. Was too focused on the chain and checking on the side stand. 🤦🏻♂️
@@MotoBrit and to tighten to manufacture's specifications.
I did mine to 110 nm but I felt like it still can be tighten a bit more. Did you have the same sensation?
Yes, but feel confident to stop. You can always check it every few rides to make sure.
@@MotoBrit Thanks
Do you find there is a lot of chain clatter at low speeds on your 750?
Sometimes yes. Even when the chain is set correctly it can still hit the plastic casing above, when rolling over bumps at slow speed. I've heard others complain about this, so I think it's normal.
I've got the F850gs which requires 40 to 50mm of free play which is impossible to measure !! I've learned that its got to be just clear of the centre stand cross member when the centre stand is up. Adjust it on centre stand then drop it onto side stand to check its clear.
+MOTO MELTDOWN ... sometimes it not easy, but you know it's a bit slack so you just give it a 'best guess' tighten and ride knowing you've at least made it a little better, if not perfect.
should the engine be on gear or neutral while doing the adjustment??
+Locomotion Productions... To my knowledge it is best in neutral. Good point, I didn't mention that. Thank you.
A torque wrench is a tightening tool. It is a very sensitive and precise tightening tool, and should never been used to loosen bolts.
Also NEVER assume your wheel is in alignment unless you did the previous adjustment. Don't trust the shop to do it right and don't trust the marks on the swingarm. I use an alignment tool to make sure.
If I may make a suggestion perhaps mention the tightening torque for the axle nut.
All good additions and clarification. Can't argue with those. Thanks for taking the time to tidy up loose ends. Always appreciated.
You forgot to tighten the axle nut. 😂
Fortunately I did remember. But I turned the camera off. 😄
WHY NOT A SEPERATE CHAIN ADJUSTMENT SCREW VS MAIN !
You have to loosen the main screw before using the adjustment screw. That's what is recommended, but small adjustments may be possible.