I've watched several videos about this topic and you are the first one that even mentions about how much force one should use when measuring the slack.
Yeah it seems to be regarded as arbitrary for some reason but the amount of pressure your apply can drastically change the amount of slack you leave in the chain.
I'm like you, Ben, in that I used to keep my chain on the "tight side" of the adjustment range. Now I stay on the "loose side" of the adjustment range and the chain and sprockets last twice as long! Thanks for all your great videos!!
I used to over tension as well!;-) I like to find the tight spot in my chain at the center between center of axle and center of swingarm pivot. Mark the swingarm. Hold measuring device at this point. Pull down on the lower part of the chain until you see movement on the upper chain. Make a mental note of the measurement on the ruler. Push up on the lower chain until you see movement on the upper chain. Notice the measurement on the ruler.The measurement between the starting point on the ruler and the end point on the ruler is your chain slack. My bike likes about 25mm . It's quite a noticeable difference in ride quality when the chain is over tensioned when compared to having the tension within spec. In my case 20-30mm. The overall ride just feels smoother. Thanks for the great video!
I think when it says an arbitrary measurement point like bottom of the chain upward to top of chain downward like on the KLR you can be more accurate with it by using a hard point as a reference. In the video, you're floating the measuring tape in the air, which works if you have steady hands. You'll get a more accurate measurement if you press the measuring tape against the bottom of the swing arm (or hook it on the top) and then take your measurements from there. So, for example, if you're holding the tape against the bottom of the swingarm and press up on the chain it reads 2 inches, then press down on the chain and it reads 5 inches; therefore your chain has 3 inches of play.
KLR forum seems to have the rule of thumb where pushing up on the chain to where it just touches the plastic swing arm protector is fine. Being spoiled by a old shaft driven Yamaha I wasn't crazy about going back to chain and sprocket and I totally did the noob mistake of tightening the chain without realizing dual sports aren't crotch rockets-they have lots of swing arm travel and it's exactly correct what you said that a loose chain is a happy chain.
Exactly my experience. Scared myself after sitting on my klr650 and reaching down to find the chain so tight that I am sure it would break if I hit a pot hole. I set the slack with the bike on center stand. I miss the shaft driven 1982 Yamaha Seca 650 I had.
I was taught that if (when measuring chain slack) you see lots of movement in the top half of the chain (ie the half on top of the swing arm) then you're using too much pressure. You want the top half of the chain to barely move when measuring play in the bottom half.
The KLR owners manual. 2022. shows two small pictures in the maintenence section. The larger part A-A shows where to take the measurment. The smaller inset shows measure the bottom of the chian in the upper postition and the bottom of the chain in the lower position. Not top to bottom. That's a 1/2" discrepancy because of the chain height. I carry a very small 3d printed ruler 0-6mm. I place my thump at the 0 mark and rest my knuckles against the tire when the chain is at the lower position. Then raise the chain and look where the bottom of the links line up on the ruler. Anywhere between 3mm=4mm is in spec. I'll adjust to 3mm if not off roading much for a while, and closer to 4mm if i'm getting on trails soon. Love your videos. Been riding for years but have learned a lot here. Appreciate your content.
the best method ive seen so far for this (and doesnt require these stupid measurements on questionable reference points like the yamaha manual) is from Adam Riemann's channel. ratchet strap and calibrate to max swingarm extension point.
DID chains (o or x chains) don't need 'lubed', Clean the crap off (DON'T use a pressure washer) and run an oily rag over it. Done. Also they really don't stretch either. As far as 'slack: Follow your manual without over thinking it and all will be well. Honestly, I have always used 1 to1.5 inch slack at the mid point between front / rear sprocket and never had any problems. Been riding a LONG time.
Please do not spread misinformation. If you do not know you’re talking about I bought a DID 525VX3 xring chain and on the back of the box it says to lube every 500kms. Here is a direct quote from the manufacturer website “Cleaning your chain every 300 miles is recommended and using X-Ring Safe cleaners and lubricants are also recommended for all sealed chains.”
@@markroberts8236 That's for cleaning the OUTSIDE of the chain. You have to use 'x-ring safe' cleaners so that you do not degrade the rings and make them leak. It is a SEALED chain. You do not lube the links, you simply clean road grime and dirt from the outside. Do you also try to lube sealed bearings, genius?
@@hazcat640 I thought they just come pre lubed but over time you should lube them at some point. I did notice however that the chain always seems lubed enough when I check it so I use some lube and then wipe it off. I do use a pressure washer but I stay away from the chain and in general use it from a good distance.
@@shpritzer Lubing the chain will not help it. The bearing surfaces are sealed. Wiping a little (LITTLE!) amount on the outside to prevent any rust is fine but lube will not work it's way into the chain.
Next time your doing suspension maintenance , with the bike on a stand, remove the rear shock. Jack up the rear wheel so that the frnt sprocket, swingarm pivot, and rear axle are inline. This will be the tightest the chain will ever be on any bike. Give it a little slack, then put your shock back on. Let the bike down and on the kickstand. Pull/push on the chain and make a reference mark on the frame or somewhere to where the chain stretches to. That will be your new standard and no more measuring. It will always be adjusted for the tightest it will ever get. Done.
I line up the sprockets and swingarm pivot. That's when the chain is the tightest. Adjust to 1/2" freeplay. No real pressure, just your finger strength.
Measure from centerpoint to centerpoint on the fron and rear sprockets -then find the halfway poinnt to use as a reference mark and only push down on the chain until the top part of the chain is level
Great to see this. I absolutely agree with you always run my T7 chain slack and well lub’d. As a final test, and this is a bit awkward til you’ve done it a few times. Lay over bike from opposite side of chain and reach down to the chain with all your weight on the bike. Bounce on it even. As you’re doing this feel the chain to make sure it has at no point got a real tight feel.
Some more experienced riders than myself taught me that when measuring chain slack and pressing it either up or down, the pressure limit is reached when the upper part of the chain begins to move. Also, always search for the stiffest part of the chain, and measure and adjust the chain slack at that point.
What people say to do for tension also varies so much. I've seen guys say to go by what the manual says but go on the tight side. I've seen people say same but on the loose side. I've seen guys say the owners manual has the chain too tight and also seen people say the owners manual has chain too loose. I've seen track racers say that even at the loosest adjustment of the range your owners manual says it still won't pass tech inspection because it isn't loose enough. I've seen people say that any looser than the owners manual says and your chain will jump off the sprocket or snap. It's insane how many differing opinions there are on this, and like you said, that's not even considering how hard you're pressing on your chain for the measurement itself. I've seen guys say measure the bottom part of chain as it rests and push up on it until it tightens up. I've seen guys say push it down as far as it'll go then push it up as far as it'll go and measure the distance. I've seen guys say to measure it on the top part of the chain like explained for the bottom part of the chain. I've seen guys say have it on side stand, I've seen guys say have it on center stand, I've seen guys say have it on rear axle maintenance stand. It's all making my head swim
There is certainly a lot of info out there on the topic and every bike is slightly different. I'm certainly not a mechanic, but in my experience it seems that the most important thing is that when the front sprocket, swing arm pivot point, and rear sprocket are aligned (the spot where the chain will be at its tightest) that you have just enough slack so as not to stretch the chain. Otherwise whenever you go over a jump, or bump, and compress the suspension to that point, it stretches the chain and puts extra stress on the other drive line components.
Put a board on your seat, then use a ratchet strap to tighten it down till the rear swing arm is flat or at absolute maximum tension then adjust to have just a little bit of free play. All done and bullet proof
Dave Moss Tuning is on UA-cam, he tunes and maintains all the way from race bikes down to people's daily rides, he can remotely tune your suspension with an online appointment, he gives a very good run down on this subject, the top of the chain above the swing arm should barely move when tension is placed on the lower part of the chain. Not picking on this young fellas video, he did quite a lot better than most on this, good work
Now, still be careful about this but let's consider the two extremes. Too tight + your weight = chain wears sooner (closer to snapping, unlikely but physics dictates it in that direction). Too loose + your weight = chance of chain kinking increases (but very unlikely, more likely to dislodge, fall off, feel weaker requiring more throttle for same spin/speed etc.). Between the two I'd take his advice and error on the side of more slack leaving the chain a bit more loose. Tighten up every so often but allow some slack and you should be good. I had the same learning curve sir. Good video!
I actually have had a chain walk off a sprocket, but that was on a very worn out set of sprockets and I had the bike leaned way over, trying to spin it around in the dirt. In general as you said, lose is the better option but a happy medium is definitely what we should shoot for.
I think, on the KLR, that if you pull the bottom of the chain up and it just barely kisses the bottom of the swing arm, that is the proper chain tension.
How do you store your bikes during the cold winters? I'm in Minnesota. Do you keep them on lifts/blocks? What about the batteries? I just bought a KLR this year after about 20 years since I last owned a few bikes living in the south.
When I lived in Owatonna two decades ago, I made sure the fuel tank was full and stabilized with ethanol free fuel. Plugged the exhaust, and removed the battery and stored it indoors somewhere heated. The bike was stored in a dry but not heated garage. Now I live in SC and enjoy year-round riding. Good luck up there.
i pull the battery and put it in my basement on a block of wood on a battery tender. I also only run ethanol free fuel and on the last tank ill usually add a good portion of seafoam to the gas and run it. when it put it away ill turn the gas off and run it till it dies/drain the carb (there's a screw at the bottom to drain the bowl) if you have EFI there's not much to do, add some fuel stabilizer
Another video said to tension the chain until the top chain just starts to lift up. In the video, you notice that when you put the hand weight the chain lifts on the topside.
I recently fucked up by adjusting it to spec but didn't realise motorcycle chains are not equally tight everywhere. You really have to turn the wheel around first and find the tightest part of the chain. What happened to me is the tight part was way too tight and causing excessive wear to my chain and sprockets whilst the other part was seemingly just within spec. On new chains this might not be an issue but when the chain has been in use for a while watch out for this !
correct setting pressure is just enough to see the top run of the chain barely begin to move off the chain pad on top the swing arm. If you go past that you are forcing it and setting will be too tight.
Hey, maybe next time you haul chicken scratch, see if it's enough load to line up the pivot between sprockets.. adjust, unload, measure for your benchmark ?
It has been a while since I had a chain drive. Got a 22 KLR. My question is do you measure it with the rear wheel on the ground or off? With the suspension settle and front wheel straight? It seems years a go on previous bike it was with the rear wheel off the ground, but the bike had a center stand. What do you think?
I don't even measure my chain slack anymore. I do it by feel and also use the old 3 finger trick. I've also given up on cleaning my chains on my KLR and Tw200...always seemed like a huge waste of time because i would literally ride dirt 5 minutes after scrubbing my chain and oiling it and it would look exactly the same as it did before... I've started just putting 80w-90 gear oil on the chain. Squirt the gear oil on about a 6-8 inch patch of chain in one or two spots and all you have to do is ride the bike and the entire chain will coat itself in oil, much cheaper than that spray can stuff. its not the cleanest method but hey, these are pigs and goats we are talking about here.
Was experiencing some power loss at high RPM just before shifting up a gear and couldn't figure out the problem. KLR owners manual says to check the chain after 600 miles. I have over 5,000 and just took a look at my rusty old chain and sprocket. Oops 😬. New chain, front and rear sprocket on the way!
To be sure, let sit someone on the bike and then check it for some slack, that will be fine, mount a chain oiler and you will have lot more fun, tention only by tyre change needed... Have forgot when i last time changed my chain set, still in perfect shape after 40tkm.... use a oiler with a seperate pump so I can use a chainsaw oil, cheap and envirement friendly....
I don’t bother finding the tight spot. Loose is loose. The variance is minimal in the scheme of things, unless you like your chain tight. Some do. I don’t care about those people. They can pay for sprockets more often if they like. I have 26,000 miles on my 2021 650 Versys and the sprockets still look great. My method? I don’t even measure. If the chain is touching the top chain guard when you push down lightly - it’s too loose. Period. I adjust the left side and lock it down, THEN adjust the right side to same hash mark and lock it down. Then tighten the axle bolt and put in the cotter pin. It doesn’t matter if the wheel is on a stand or you do your bike on its side stand. Do it that way and check the bottom if you like. I guarantee it’s at about an inch of play. That’s perfect.
So down reading the manual. On the KLR you measure bottom too bottom. It’s does look funny in the manual on one illustration but the second clears it up. You don’t crank on it at all. Just lift it. The manuals are still written for people who have been doing this there whole life or for service techs. Manufacturer could definitely do a better job.
I've inadvertently adjusted my chain a little too tight. I could hear an exaggerated whine coming from the front sprocket. That is one way to tell "hear" there is a chain adjustment error. As you mentioned - keeping the chain clean and lubed is the best practice and the sprockets and chain will last a lot longer. I learned that over decades of bicycle riding and having a 24 year old bike only needing one new set of chain rings and cog and two chains for 10s of thousands of miles of riding. WD40 before every ride. There are those that say WD40 is not a good choice I say show me your data. Anyway - keep the chain and sprockets clean and there isn't an argument to talk about. On my Versys X300 after about every third ride I douse the chain in WD40 (I buy gallon cans of the stuff) and wipe with rags and nylon brush to also loosen any thing on the parts. Then when the chain and sprockets are clean I douse with white lithium grease aerosol from Honda and you can see where you've missed as it is white. I do this at the end of a ride so all evaporation happens before the next ride and there is almost zero lube that flings off the chain. Less muss less fuss. It works. I have 5000 miles on my X300 and the chain and sprockets look new and function as new. I expect at least 20,000 miles on the OEM chain and sprockets.
Late to the party, but I'll chime in on the WD40-gang 👍 Chain maintenance for me has always been more about a clean chain, than a lubed chain. I'll add some squirts of lube or WD40 after cleaning it to prevent rust, but days where I'm riding lots of dirt and gravel roads, I don't even bother lubing as it'll just turn into a grinding paste. Never had issues with premature wear. I have riding buddies with vastly different opinions on this, but we all seem to replace our chain and sprockets at roughly the same intervals.
For these type of bikes, it's a two-man job. One person to sit/lean on the bike ie load-bearing - the other measures as per manufacturer's spec. If you don't pre-load, then the chain is going to be too tight.
It's not going to be too tight if it's set to manufacturer spec. They took suspension travel into account when they came up with the spec. That's the only reason chain slack is needed. If the wheel was in a fixed location and had no suspension travel, 1mm slack would be plenty.
I'm Old school Ok, and the way we did it back in the 1970's was loosen the chain to where you have about 1/2"~3/4" of slack or flop to the chain ...up to an inch if you want it looser just grab it and wiggle it up and down it's not rocket science and it doesn't have to be perfect.... but you do definitely want slack in it or the tension in the chain will ware the output shaft bearing and wheel bearing prematurely ! your chain on the T7 is way too tight in my book... the KLR is snug, I would loosen it a bit... the tension is there to allow the rear suspension to flex easily but not let the chain hop off in bumpy roads , being anil about it is pointless, just make sure the chain is loose and the sprockets good, and your good to go I typically use the toe of my boot to flip the chain to see the amount it flexes up if it's an inch or so it's golden , if it's 1.5"~2" it's too much and I'll tighten it a bit... more important than the chain tension is the rear wheel alignment which can move on you ! and the first sign that it's not right is when you go around a corner on a bumpy road and the back of the bike goes side to side with each bounce.... stop and fix it immediately ! you are Right about the geometry being different on the rear swing arm than they were in the 1970's as you put weight on the seat the chain will loosen how much depends on the bike and I've read where the T7 is really bad about that so you need to keep it snug ...but you have it too snug for my liking LOL the T7 is supposed to have "Anti-squat "technology which from watching all your videos I would say it does ! and that in itself is a wonder ! but even more of a reason to make sure there is enough slack in the chain. chains and sprockets ware out, there is no getting around that, running them looser than what the factory calls for will not cause so much ware that you have to replace them that much sooner... trust me on that ! so save those bearings and run the chain looser !!!!!
I've watched several videos about this topic and you are the first one that even mentions about how much force one should use when measuring the slack.
Yeah it seems to be regarded as arbitrary for some reason but the amount of pressure your apply can drastically change the amount of slack you leave in the chain.
You're supposed to push hard enough to take up the slack but not so hard that the chain at the top moves. That's the golden rule
I'm like you, Ben, in that I used to keep my chain on the "tight side" of the adjustment range. Now I stay on the "loose side" of the adjustment range and the chain and sprockets last twice as long! Thanks for all your great videos!!
It sure seems backwards but keeping it loose definitely makes everything last longer! Thanks!!!
I used to over tension as well!;-)
I like to find the tight spot in my chain at the center between center of axle and center of swingarm pivot. Mark the swingarm. Hold measuring device at this point. Pull down on the lower part of the chain until you see movement on the upper chain. Make a mental note of the measurement on the ruler. Push up on the lower chain until you see movement on the upper chain. Notice the measurement on the ruler.The measurement between the starting point on the ruler and the end point on the ruler is your chain slack. My bike likes about 25mm . It's quite a noticeable difference in ride quality when the chain is over tensioned when compared to having the tension within spec. In my case 20-30mm.
The overall ride just feels smoother.
Thanks for the great video!
What happens when you over tighten
I think when it says an arbitrary measurement point like bottom of the chain upward to top of chain downward like on the KLR you can be more accurate with it by using a hard point as a reference. In the video, you're floating the measuring tape in the air, which works if you have steady hands. You'll get a more accurate measurement if you press the measuring tape against the bottom of the swing arm (or hook it on the top) and then take your measurements from there. So, for example, if you're holding the tape against the bottom of the swingarm and press up on the chain it reads 2 inches, then press down on the chain and it reads 5 inches; therefore your chain has 3 inches of play.
KLR forum seems to have the rule of thumb where pushing up on the chain to where it just touches the plastic swing arm protector is fine. Being spoiled by a old shaft driven Yamaha I wasn't crazy about going back to chain and sprocket and I totally did the noob mistake of tightening the chain without realizing dual sports aren't crotch rockets-they have lots of swing arm travel and it's exactly correct what you said that a loose chain is a happy chain.
Exactly my experience. Scared myself after sitting on my klr650 and reaching down to find the chain so tight that I am sure it would break if I hit a pot hole. I set the slack with the bike on center stand. I miss the shaft driven 1982 Yamaha Seca 650 I had.
@@piotrmajerski1110 Hehe miss my '79 shaft driven XS11 Special.
I was taught that if (when measuring chain slack) you see lots of movement in the top half of the chain (ie the half on top of the swing arm) then you're using too much pressure. You want the top half of the chain to barely move when measuring play in the bottom half.
yep that is the way
I'll have to remember this ! Thanks :)
This comment helped me thanks… but it’s like the guy said.. how hard do u move the Bottom half of the chain .. lol thanks tho
This
@seajay631 Just push up, no need to push down. Push up until top of chain starts to move.
Better a lil loose than a lil tight!
First time chain tightener here. You raised the question I have had and you are right the manuals are very light on in this area.
The KLR owners manual. 2022. shows two small pictures in the maintenence section. The larger part A-A shows where to take the measurment. The smaller inset shows measure the bottom of the chian in the upper postition and the bottom of the chain in the lower position. Not top to bottom. That's a 1/2" discrepancy because of the chain height.
I carry a very small 3d printed ruler 0-6mm. I place my thump at the 0 mark and rest my knuckles against the tire when the chain is at the lower position. Then raise the chain and look where the bottom of the links line up on the ruler. Anywhere between 3mm=4mm is in spec. I'll adjust to 3mm if not off roading much for a while, and closer to 4mm if i'm getting on trails soon. Love your videos. Been riding for years but have learned a lot here. Appreciate your content.
the best method ive seen so far for this (and doesnt require these stupid measurements on questionable reference points like the yamaha manual) is from Adam Riemann's channel. ratchet strap and calibrate to max swingarm extension point.
best sense of it all right there!
DID chains (o or x chains) don't need 'lubed', Clean the crap off (DON'T use a pressure washer) and run an oily rag over it. Done. Also they really don't stretch either. As far as 'slack: Follow your manual without over thinking it and all will be well. Honestly, I have always used 1 to1.5 inch slack at the mid point between front / rear sprocket and never had any problems. Been riding a LONG time.
Please do not spread misinformation. If you do not know you’re talking about I bought a DID 525VX3 xring chain and on the back of the box it says to lube every 500kms. Here is a direct quote from the manufacturer website “Cleaning your chain every 300 miles is recommended and using X-Ring Safe cleaners and lubricants are also recommended for all sealed chains.”
@@markroberts8236 That's for cleaning the OUTSIDE of the chain. You have to use 'x-ring safe' cleaners so that you do not degrade the rings and make them leak. It is a SEALED chain. You do not lube the links, you simply clean road grime and dirt from the outside.
Do you also try to lube sealed bearings, genius?
@@hazcat640 I thought they just come pre lubed but over time you should lube them at some point. I did notice however that the chain always seems lubed enough when I check it so I use some lube and then wipe it off. I do use a pressure washer but I stay away from the chain and in general use it from a good distance.
@@shpritzer Lubing the chain will not help it. The bearing surfaces are sealed. Wiping a little (LITTLE!) amount on the outside to prevent any rust is fine but lube will not work it's way into the chain.
@@hazcat640 but how about between the chain and the sprockets?
On the KLR , with bike on side stand , push up on the bottom of the chain till it barely touches the rear of the bottom rubber chain slider !!
Next time your doing suspension maintenance , with the bike on a stand, remove the rear shock. Jack up the rear wheel so that the frnt sprocket, swingarm pivot, and rear axle are inline. This will be the tightest the chain will ever be on any bike. Give it a little slack, then put your shock back on. Let the bike down and on the kickstand. Pull/push on the chain and make a reference mark on the frame or somewhere to where the chain stretches to. That will be your new standard and no more measuring. It will always be adjusted for the tightest it will ever get. Done.
I line up the sprockets and swingarm pivot.
That's when the chain is the tightest. Adjust to 1/2" freeplay. No real pressure, just your finger strength.
The most mechanically backed up logic right there!
Measure from centerpoint to centerpoint on the fron and rear sprockets -then find the halfway poinnt to use as a reference mark and only push down on the chain until the top part of the chain is level
Great to see this. I absolutely agree with you always run my T7 chain slack and well lub’d. As a final test, and this is a bit awkward til you’ve done it a few times. Lay over bike from opposite side of chain and reach down to the chain with all your weight on the bike. Bounce on it even. As you’re doing this feel the chain to make sure it has at no point got a real tight feel.
Some more experienced riders than myself taught me that when measuring chain slack and pressing it either up or down, the pressure limit is reached when the upper part of the chain begins to move. Also, always search for the stiffest part of the chain, and measure and adjust the chain slack at that point.
1-1/2 inches slack in the middle is the Gold standard for most all bikes
Great Video. I've always second-guessed myself doing this. Thanks for sharing.
XT660Z manual is pretty clear. Side stand, measure top of chain pushed up, to bottom chain pusjed down. Delta is 50-60mm. I keep it at 55mm.
Damn I’ve been wondering about this and guessing for years. Thanks.
Glad it helped!
You are correct by just putting the weight of your hand on the chain, A chain that is too tight will cause HUGE problems,
Love the channel and content man!
What people say to do for tension also varies so much. I've seen guys say to go by what the manual says but go on the tight side. I've seen people say same but on the loose side. I've seen guys say the owners manual has the chain too tight and also seen people say the owners manual has chain too loose. I've seen track racers say that even at the loosest adjustment of the range your owners manual says it still won't pass tech inspection because it isn't loose enough. I've seen people say that any looser than the owners manual says and your chain will jump off the sprocket or snap. It's insane how many differing opinions there are on this, and like you said, that's not even considering how hard you're pressing on your chain for the measurement itself. I've seen guys say measure the bottom part of chain as it rests and push up on it until it tightens up. I've seen guys say push it down as far as it'll go then push it up as far as it'll go and measure the distance. I've seen guys say to measure it on the top part of the chain like explained for the bottom part of the chain. I've seen guys say have it on side stand, I've seen guys say have it on center stand, I've seen guys say have it on rear axle maintenance stand. It's all making my head swim
There is certainly a lot of info out there on the topic and every bike is slightly different. I'm certainly not a mechanic, but in my experience it seems that the most important thing is that when the front sprocket, swing arm pivot point, and rear sprocket are aligned (the spot where the chain will be at its tightest) that you have just enough slack so as not to stretch the chain. Otherwise whenever you go over a jump, or bump, and compress the suspension to that point, it stretches the chain and puts extra stress on the other drive line components.
Put a board on your seat, then use a ratchet strap to tighten it down till the rear swing arm is flat or at absolute maximum tension then adjust to have just a little bit of free play. All done and bullet proof
Good advice!
Makes perfect sense!
Excellent information Ben! Thank you, very informative and helpful!
Dave Moss Tuning is on UA-cam, he tunes and maintains all the way from race bikes down to people's daily rides, he can remotely tune your suspension with an online appointment, he gives a very good run down on this subject, the top of the chain above the swing arm should barely move when tension is placed on the lower part of the chain.
Not picking on this young fellas video, he did quite a lot better than most on this, good work
How can he remotely tune your suspension with an online appointment? 🤔
Now, still be careful about this but let's consider the two extremes. Too tight + your weight = chain wears sooner (closer to snapping, unlikely but physics dictates it in that direction). Too loose + your weight = chance of chain kinking increases (but very unlikely, more likely to dislodge, fall off, feel weaker requiring more throttle for same spin/speed etc.). Between the two I'd take his advice and error on the side of more slack leaving the chain a bit more loose. Tighten up every so often but allow some slack and you should be good. I had the same learning curve sir. Good video!
I actually have had a chain walk off a sprocket, but that was on a very worn out set of sprockets and I had the bike leaned way over, trying to spin it around in the dirt. In general as you said, lose is the better option but a happy medium is definitely what we should shoot for.
I think, on the KLR, that if you pull the bottom of the chain up and it just barely kisses the bottom of the swing arm, that is the proper chain tension.
and also is your bike resting on the ground or is it on a stand/or jack?
Is it ok to run with the adjustment of the axle blocks inside of the hash marks, or is that not recommended?
How do you store your bikes during the cold winters? I'm in Minnesota. Do you keep them on lifts/blocks? What about the batteries? I just bought a KLR this year after about 20 years since I last owned a few bikes living in the south.
When I lived in Owatonna two decades ago, I made sure the fuel tank was full and stabilized with ethanol free fuel. Plugged the exhaust, and removed the battery and stored it indoors somewhere heated. The bike was stored in a dry but not heated garage. Now I live in SC and enjoy year-round riding. Good luck up there.
I live in Mn also.
I fill them with gas and put a battery tender on them.
I usually manage to get one out at least once a month.
i pull the battery and put it in my basement on a block of wood on a battery tender. I also only run ethanol free fuel and on the last tank ill usually add a good portion of seafoam to the gas and run it. when it put it away ill turn the gas off and run it till it dies/drain the carb (there's a screw at the bottom to drain the bowl) if you have EFI there's not much to do, add some fuel stabilizer
Thanks for replying all. I also only use ethanol free fuel. Based on your advice, I'll take the battery indoors because my garage isn't heated.
Another video said to tension the chain until the top chain just starts to lift up. In the video, you notice that when you put the hand weight the chain lifts on the topside.
Yep, you want to measure all that slack too. Just make sure you're not starting to stretch anything.
I recently fucked up by adjusting it to spec but didn't realise motorcycle chains are not equally tight everywhere. You really have to turn the wheel around first and find the tightest part of the chain. What happened to me is the tight part was way too tight and causing excessive wear to my chain and sprockets whilst the other part was seemingly just within spec. On new chains this might not be an issue but when the chain has been in use for a while watch out for this !
I tension mine to where it is not sagging down.
If you feel your chain after riding and its hot its probly too tight
And what effect does a load for touring have?
correct setting pressure is just enough to see the top run of the chain barely begin to move off the chain pad on top the swing arm. If you go past that you are forcing it and setting will be too tight.
Are you putting your tape measure against the chain protector? Or against the swing arm itself?
On the Tenere you want it at the bottom of the little rib on the piece of plastic stuck to the underside of the swing arm.
Interesting.. how you go about measuring the chain slack if you have a chain guide installed on the T7 ?
Hey, maybe next time you haul chicken scratch, see if it's enough load to line up the pivot between sprockets.. adjust, unload, measure for your benchmark ?
I heard that you should move the bottom chain until the top chain moves to get the limits.
If I find any useful info online, I'll post a "link"...
Yep, I keep them a little loose. 2016 Tiger 800 XC with 27000 miles on OEM chain. It's chains and spokets ok
It has been a while since I had a chain drive. Got a 22 KLR. My question is do you measure it with the rear wheel on the ground or off? With the suspension settle and front wheel straight? It seems years a go on previous bike it was with the rear wheel off the ground, but the bike had a center stand. What do you think?
2022 manual says on sidestand
I don't even measure my chain slack anymore. I do it by feel and also use the old 3 finger trick. I've also given up on cleaning my chains on my KLR and Tw200...always seemed like a huge waste of time because i would literally ride dirt 5 minutes after scrubbing my chain and oiling it and it would look exactly the same as it did before... I've started just putting 80w-90 gear oil on the chain. Squirt the gear oil on about a 6-8 inch patch of chain in one or two spots and all you have to do is ride the bike and the entire chain will coat itself in oil, much cheaper than that spray can stuff. its not the cleanest method but hey, these are pigs and goats we are talking about here.
I have to agree with you. I also do It by feel.
Was experiencing some power loss at high RPM just before shifting up a gear and couldn't figure out the problem. KLR owners manual says to check the chain after 600 miles. I have over 5,000 and just took a look at my rusty old chain and sprocket. Oops 😬. New chain, front and rear sprocket on the way!
Tension it at the tightest spot on the chain
To be sure, let sit someone on the bike and then check it for some slack, that will be fine, mount a chain oiler and you will have lot more fun, tention only by tyre change needed... Have forgot when i last time changed my chain set, still in perfect shape after 40tkm.... use a oiler with a seperate pump so I can use a chainsaw oil, cheap and envirement friendly....
That's an awesome idea!
I think you’re doing it right!
Great suggestions.
It is especially important to keep it clean and oiled.
Thank you for your information
Thanks!
just move the up and then down, no heavy force is needed. Just move the free slack up n down and get the gap within range.
I don’t bother finding the tight spot. Loose is loose. The variance is minimal in the scheme of things, unless you like your chain tight. Some do.
I don’t care about those people. They can pay for sprockets more often if they like. I have 26,000 miles on my 2021 650 Versys and the sprockets still look great.
My method? I don’t even measure. If the chain is touching the top chain guard when you push down lightly - it’s too loose. Period.
I adjust the left side and lock it down, THEN adjust the right side to same hash mark and lock it down. Then tighten the axle bolt and put in the cotter pin.
It doesn’t matter if the wheel is on a stand or you do your bike on its side stand.
Do it that way and check the bottom if you like. I guarantee it’s at about an inch of play. That’s perfect.
This is not the only place I've heard that a looser chain (to a point) is preferable to a tight chain.
"To a point" is a good point.
So down reading the manual. On the KLR you measure bottom too bottom. It’s does look funny in the manual on one illustration but the second clears it up. You don’t crank on it at all. Just lift it. The manuals are still written for people who have been doing this there whole life or for service techs. Manufacturer could definitely do a better job.
I find the tightest spot on the chain when rotating the tire then adjust. When the chain hits the bottom of the swing arm then I'm Gucci.
How does this video have 31,000 views and only just over 500 likes? Wth
Nice work. I picked up a base model ( green) today. Dunlops in rt. I just had to stop hitting the trails on that 650 pound Harley, temptations.
Just maesure the play as per manual. Top of chain & top of chain.
I've inadvertently adjusted my chain a little too tight. I could hear an exaggerated whine coming from the front sprocket. That is one way to tell "hear" there is a chain adjustment error. As you mentioned - keeping the chain clean and lubed is the best practice and the sprockets and chain will last a lot longer. I learned that over decades of bicycle riding and having a 24 year old bike only needing one new set of chain rings and cog and two chains for 10s of thousands of miles of riding. WD40 before every ride. There are those that say WD40 is not a good choice I say show me your data. Anyway - keep the chain and sprockets clean and there isn't an argument to talk about. On my Versys X300 after about every third ride I douse the chain in WD40 (I buy gallon cans of the stuff) and wipe with rags and nylon brush to also loosen any thing on the parts. Then when the chain and sprockets are clean I douse with white lithium grease aerosol from Honda and you can see where you've missed as it is white. I do this at the end of a ride so all evaporation happens before the next ride and there is almost zero lube that flings off the chain. Less muss less fuss. It works. I have 5000 miles on my X300 and the chain and sprockets look new and function as new. I expect at least 20,000 miles on the OEM chain and sprockets.
Late to the party, but I'll chime in on the WD40-gang 👍 Chain maintenance for me has always been more about a clean chain, than a lubed chain. I'll add some squirts of lube or WD40 after cleaning it to prevent rust, but days where I'm riding lots of dirt and gravel roads, I don't even bother lubing as it'll just turn into a grinding paste. Never had issues with premature wear. I have riding buddies with vastly different opinions on this, but we all seem to replace our chain and sprockets at roughly the same intervals.
For these type of bikes, it's a two-man job. One person to sit/lean on the bike ie load-bearing - the other measures as per manufacturer's spec. If you don't pre-load, then the chain is going to be too tight.
It's not going to be too tight if it's set to manufacturer spec. They took suspension travel into account when they came up with the spec. That's the only reason chain slack is needed. If the wheel was in a fixed location and had no suspension travel, 1mm slack would be plenty.
I'm Old school Ok, and the way we did it back in the 1970's was loosen the chain to where you have about 1/2"~3/4" of slack or flop to the chain ...up to an inch if you want it looser
just grab it and wiggle it up and down it's not rocket science and it doesn't have to be perfect.... but you do definitely want slack in it or the tension in the chain will ware the output shaft bearing and wheel bearing prematurely ! your chain on the T7 is way too tight
in my book... the KLR is snug, I would loosen it a bit... the tension is there to allow the rear suspension to flex easily but not let the chain hop off in bumpy roads , being anil about it is pointless, just make sure the chain is loose and the sprockets good, and your good to go
I typically use the toe of my boot to flip the chain to see the amount it flexes up if it's an inch or so it's golden , if it's 1.5"~2" it's too much and I'll tighten it a bit...
more important than the chain tension is the rear wheel alignment which can move on you !
and the first sign that it's not right is when you go around a corner on a bumpy road and the back of the bike goes side to side with each bounce.... stop and fix it immediately !
you are Right about the geometry being different on the rear swing arm than they were in the 1970's as you put weight on the seat the chain will loosen how much depends on the bike
and I've read where the T7 is really bad about that so you need to keep it snug ...but you have it too snug for my liking LOL
the T7 is supposed to have "Anti-squat "technology which from watching all your videos I would say it does ! and that in itself is a wonder ! but even more of a reason to make sure
there is enough slack in the chain. chains and sprockets ware out, there is no getting around that, running them looser than what the factory calls for will not cause so much ware that you have to replace them that much sooner... trust me on that ! so save those bearings and run the chain looser !!!!!
i run on the loose side as well.
When you're pressing the chain , if the upper side of the chain flexes you're pressing too hard.
I think it's always going to move a small amount, you just don't want to be stretching it at all.
You stop pushing on chain when it starts to move the top part of chain
if i don't hear it slapping, it's ok.
9 pound
I learned absolutely nothing from this video
Thank you Ben