God im 3 minutes in. Lemme guess. It worked for your video but after a while it stopped cutting as good and only gave you a regular depth of cut. Then after you used it on wood for a real jobsite it died? Hmmm.... Kinda a waste of vid
Considering I only did this a few days ago I only have a couple batteries worth of cutting wood on it so far. But as of today its working great. Why would you fuger it would die tho? stands to reason to me that it would last a lot longer cutting wood rather than steel, seems to be a lot less stress on it when using it for wood.
@@tdm8817 experience. I have done this before. I have 23 years carpentry professionally under my belt. The short answer is you can put a metal cutting blade or diamond or abrasive etc on a skill saw. But you can't put wood blades on cold cut metal saws with out killing them. Long answer is the nature of sawdust and kerf behavior. Metal is harder than wood as a result it comes loose in the area of the carbide on the tooth. Which is why metal blades have such thin blades ( carbide wise ) with very little over offset. Simply put you chunk out metal and it's kerf stays the same size. This is also why the teeth are set so close to each other with such small and short teeth with no real gullet to speak of. Wood on the other hand is a natural laminate comprised of hard and soft layers it tends to splinters away from the tooth and carbide as it is ripped out and then come back to rest in it original orientation. This put pressure on the rest of the blade that is not the edge of the carbide. It also produces much more and larger particles ( saw dust ) which is why the carbides are so much larger width wise than the blade. It is also why there are large gullets in the blade. Also of note the tooth count is based off of the rpm of the blade. The cold cut metal saw runs at 3700 rpm. Wood cutting blades are set to run at 5500 to around 6000 some odd rpm on side winder. Which does affect the ejection of sawdust. It works but not for long and ruined the saw. I've killed 2 doing this on account of they were company saws and I was told just make it work. With that said when it dies if you require an 8+ inch blade check out the bigfoot cordless much better bang for buck longer life and versatility as your replacement I'm guessing your battery life is about 3/4s what it should be with metal blade making equivalent cuts And hey I know I sounded like it but my intention wasn't to sound antisocial or be an asshole. It was to save you some trouble and money
@@black_dragon-carpentry no worries, I don't take any offense at all, in fact thank you for replying. Tho I am extremely confused, you say the metal blades are thinner, infact the metal blades I have are thicker. I have 2 diablo 7-1/4 blades one for wood and one for metal. The metal one is thicker than the wood blade. You also said the sawdust particles are larger than the metal chips? My experience again is the exact opposite with the metal chips off the metal blade being far larger in size than the sawdust. You also were saying that the wood saws run faster rpm. While this is true as a general statement it's dependent on the individual saws your comparing. The Milwaukee saw in this video has a stated rpm of 4000 and the 8-1/4 skil saw I ordered states 4300 rpm. I'll check both with a digital tachometer when the skilsaw comes in. And the 8" diablo metal blade is rated for a max rpm of 4300. From what I seen looking around the more modern wood saws turn faster than that but that's why I ordered a older one with slower rpm. I did see the bigfoot saws but instead of those I'm gonna get one of the vintage skil saws model 127 for a larger saw. And as far as battery life when cutting wood, it's likely 25 times or more what it is as compared to cutting steel. Granted I haven't done a proper test on that just guessing. But it's a hell of a lot longer with wood vs steel So ya I'm curious why my experience with this seems completely backwards from yours
@@tdm8817 by thickness I was speaking on the carbide or tooth treatment. The old skill saw baled actually used to be sharpened metal that cut wood fiber rather than tear it On the chips ( saw dust / metal shavings) I was speaking on overall size. Metal shavings length wise are much longer per shaving depending on thickness of material. So even though it looks longer it is a thinner curl of material The battery life was supposition on my part based off of mental conversion from corded cold cut saws to battery again based off of thickness of material and depth of cut. And comparison of corded tools vs battery tools on equal cuts and adjusted for speed of cut with extra resistance and run time. An easy way to compare is to use wood saw with wood blade and time cuts and see battery use. Rpms were pulled quickly off of interwebs info however if memory serves the corded ones had a lower rpm so internet info jived with memory. I loved my old all metal skil saws but to be honest they get very shocking on jobsite powe with iffy grounding ( the grey and red handle mag are just awesome ) Keep in mind that my experience is based on job site use. Where I was making cuts that measured in 8 foot rips and yardage cut daily
@@black_dragon-carpentry and I should have specified. The two 7-1/4 blades im referring to are both modern carbide tipped and both the steel disc and the carbide tips are wider on the metal cutting blade than the wood cutting blade. The 8-1/4 skil saw I ordered still has the original non carbide blade on it, I've never used one of those so it will be interesting to compare it to the modern 8-1/4 carbide blade. On the metal chips vs sawdust I'll have to just show it on video but with the two 7-1/4 blades, the metal chips are absolutely massive in size compared to the sawdust. Maybe that was different with the non carbide blades im guessing? It would be cool to do as direct of a comparison as possible with cutting metal vs wood using the same saws corded and non corded but that sounds like more of a job for project farm than me lol Thankfully I do have good grounding and haven't yet been shocked by my all metal skilsaw and if it's raining or something I'll just use the plastic cordless saws. Once that 8-1/4 skilsaw shows up I'll make another video about that. Would be interesting to compare how that dose with metal vs this Milwaukee
God im 3 minutes in. Lemme guess. It worked for your video but after a while it stopped cutting as good and only gave you a regular depth of cut.
Then after you used it on wood for a real jobsite it died?
Hmmm.... Kinda a waste of vid
Considering I only did this a few days ago I only have a couple batteries worth of cutting wood on it so far. But as of today its working great.
Why would you fuger it would die tho? stands to reason to me that it would last a lot longer cutting wood rather than steel, seems to be a lot less stress on it when using it for wood.
@@tdm8817 experience. I have done this before. I have 23 years carpentry professionally under my belt.
The short answer is you can put a metal cutting blade or diamond or abrasive etc on a skill saw.
But you can't put wood blades on cold cut metal saws with out killing them.
Long answer is the nature of sawdust and kerf behavior. Metal is harder than wood as a result it comes loose in the area of the carbide on the tooth. Which is why metal blades have such thin blades ( carbide wise ) with very little over offset. Simply put you chunk out metal and it's kerf stays the same size. This is also why the teeth are set so close to each other with such small and short teeth with no real gullet to speak of.
Wood on the other hand is a natural laminate comprised of hard and soft layers it tends to splinters away from the tooth and carbide as it is ripped out and then come back to rest in it original orientation. This put pressure on the rest of the blade that is not the edge of the carbide. It also produces much more and larger particles ( saw dust ) which is why the carbides are so much larger width wise than the blade. It is also why there are large gullets in the blade.
Also of note the tooth count is based off of the rpm of the blade. The cold cut metal saw runs at 3700 rpm. Wood cutting blades are set to run at 5500 to around 6000 some odd rpm on side winder. Which does affect the ejection of sawdust.
It works but not for long and ruined the saw. I've killed 2 doing this on account of they were company saws and I was told just make it work.
With that said when it dies if you require an 8+ inch blade check out the bigfoot cordless much better bang for buck longer life and versatility as your replacement
I'm guessing your battery life is about 3/4s what it should be with metal blade making equivalent cuts
And hey I know I sounded like it but my intention wasn't to sound antisocial or be an asshole. It was to save you some trouble and money
@@black_dragon-carpentry no worries, I don't take any offense at all, in fact thank you for replying.
Tho I am extremely confused, you say the metal blades are thinner, infact the metal blades I have are thicker. I have 2 diablo 7-1/4 blades one for wood and one for metal. The metal one is thicker than the wood blade.
You also said the sawdust particles are larger than the metal chips? My experience again is the exact opposite with the metal chips off the metal blade being far larger in size than the sawdust.
You also were saying that the wood saws run faster rpm. While this is true as a general statement it's dependent on the individual saws your comparing. The Milwaukee saw in this video has a stated rpm of 4000 and the 8-1/4 skil saw I ordered states 4300 rpm. I'll check both with a digital tachometer when the skilsaw comes in. And the 8" diablo metal blade is rated for a max rpm of 4300. From what I seen looking around the more modern wood saws turn faster than that but that's why I ordered a older one with slower rpm.
I did see the bigfoot saws but instead of those I'm gonna get one of the vintage skil saws model 127 for a larger saw.
And as far as battery life when cutting wood, it's likely 25 times or more what it is as compared to cutting steel. Granted I haven't done a proper test on that just guessing. But it's a hell of a lot longer with wood vs steel
So ya I'm curious why my experience with this seems completely backwards from yours
@@tdm8817 by thickness I was speaking on the carbide or tooth treatment. The old skill saw baled actually used to be sharpened metal that cut wood fiber rather than tear it
On the chips ( saw dust / metal shavings) I was speaking on overall size. Metal shavings length wise are much longer per shaving depending on thickness of material. So even though it looks longer it is a thinner curl of material
The battery life was supposition on my part based off of mental conversion from corded cold cut saws to battery again based off of thickness of material and depth of cut. And comparison of corded tools vs battery tools on equal cuts and adjusted for speed of cut with extra resistance and run time. An easy way to compare is to use wood saw with wood blade and time cuts and see battery use.
Rpms were pulled quickly off of interwebs info however if memory serves the corded ones had a lower rpm so internet info jived with memory.
I loved my old all metal skil saws but to be honest they get very shocking on jobsite powe with iffy grounding ( the grey and red handle mag are just awesome )
Keep in mind that my experience is based on job site use. Where I was making cuts that measured in 8 foot rips and yardage cut daily
@@black_dragon-carpentry and I should have specified. The two 7-1/4 blades im referring to are both modern carbide tipped and both the steel disc and the carbide tips are wider on the metal cutting blade than the wood cutting blade. The 8-1/4 skil saw I ordered still has the original non carbide blade on it, I've never used one of those so it will be interesting to compare it to the modern 8-1/4 carbide blade.
On the metal chips vs sawdust I'll have to just show it on video but with the two 7-1/4 blades, the metal chips are absolutely massive in size compared to the sawdust. Maybe that was different with the non carbide blades im guessing?
It would be cool to do as direct of a comparison as possible with cutting metal vs wood using the same saws corded and non corded but that sounds like more of a job for project farm than me lol
Thankfully I do have good grounding and haven't yet been shocked by my all metal skilsaw and if it's raining or something I'll just use the plastic cordless saws.
Once that 8-1/4 skilsaw shows up I'll make another video about that. Would be interesting to compare how that dose with metal vs this Milwaukee