FIXED!! Refrigerator clicking on/off nonstop,and finally quit all together. This testing assured me my compressor was good. Start relay was rattling, replaced. Refrigerator still did not come back on, just heard clicking on/off at the circuit board on back, but that didn’t start happening right away.Finally I unplugged, worried it would burn up the board. Next morning, I plugged it back in, still nonstop clicking ever second at the board. By now, I don’t care if it burns up the board! (09 kitchenAid). As the morning went on , I could hear the compressor want to start, but, in a nano second the circuit board would click again, and shut it down from starting. This slowly build up where the compressor came on for a few seconds more and board would click it off again. Finally after hours of that building up of the compressor time, and less circuit board time, it just started running full speed, and very quietly. It’s be running 2 hrs now, I’m going to leave the refrigerator closed for 24 hrs and see if it’s going to continue running before pushing back into space. (note: before my fix, I had 2 different service people come out, one said my refrigerator relays was on the the board and my refrigerator didn’t have a relay to replace, so, board was replaced, did not fix; the other said he didn’t know the cause, cause at the time the clicking was intermittent and he’d have to hear it, even though I had audio.) By the way , I’m a 67 single women that relies heavily on Utube videos, thank you for taking the time to share your knowledge. Hope what I share, can help someone.
Hi. Your videos and your narrative is by far the clearest as far as diagnosing these LG fridge issues. Thank you for them. So my compressor is "running". It sounds healthy. Not hollow and not clicking like a thermal issue. Condenser fan is running and both fridge and freezer fans function in run mode and during test mode. My pcb doesn't have an LED. So no flashes. I get a code "22" in the 2nd phase of diagnostic which can mean start relay or PCB, but compressor is running. I'm willing to spend the $300+ to change board and relay, but not another grand to replace compressor. What's your beat guess? I'd be happy to compensate you for your time. Thank you so much. Dave Beaumont
Code 22 is just a notification that you are on the 2nd phase (33 the 3rd phase). You didn't mention the model number or if it's a Linear compressor. If it is Linear, I'm afraid you have to replace it. Or there is a small chance the refrigerant gas has leaked out. If it's not Linear, there is a higher chance of a gas leak. Either way an expensive repair. But if it's under 5 years old, LG may replace the Linear compressor free.
Really nice job on this video. After looking at videos for two days this was the best and most straight forward to test my LG linear compressor. Thank you!
Here is Gill I really appreciate your video explains clearly to check compressor good job. I am requesting your help to know how to check inverter on BLDC type compressor with inverter board
Wow...I just subscribed. This video was so well done for a newbie like me !! Very well explained and shown !! My start relay, overload switch and compressors were the same ones you were checking. I have only used a multimeter once before, but you made it so easy to learn to use it. My meter started higher then would go down some...hopefully that is normal?? My readings were about 5.1 on left and 4.1 on right. The two top pins were 8.8 , but I guess should be 9.2 ?? It is an LG bottom freezer refrigerator and the freezer will only get cold. The fan in the back is running and the compressor is hot. Any more suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks so much !! Joe
Assuming that the freezer is getting cold (around 0°F), would indicate that the compressor is good! Part of that cold air should travel to the fridge section through a hall or a damper door on some models, with the help of a freezer-fan. So it's best to take your freezer apart and see if the fan burned out, or got stuck in the ice due to a bad defrost system, or the damper door is not working. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Thank you for such clear post. I have the LG linear compressor.so many of posts refer to compressor relay inside the left cover. mine has the overcurrent device only, yet I can hear a relay but the compressor doesn't start. does the relay exist elsewhere TY.
LG linear compressors don't have a start relay, only an overload device. The main electronic board controls the compressor. Try to run the Test and see if the compressor starts as on this video... ua-cam.com/video/70y61Sq_NU0/v-deo.html
I was trying to measure the compressor on my fridge which clicks off a few seconds after what sounds like starting up, and I got some weird readings...I got around 23.5 ohms between the "tip" and either of the other two pins, but only around 1.3 Ohms between the two "base" pins. Haven't seen such numbers mentioned anywhere, they seem way too different from what everyone else seems to mention these compressors should measure. It is a HVY44AA compressor in an 18-year old Electrolux fridge. Has a weird relay (replaced, didn't change anything) that could perhaps fit the description of "a grey box", so maybe it is the BLDC inverter compressor and should have 23(ish) ohms between all three pins? Any idea or help would be much appreciated.
@@Your-Self Yep, I checked it several times because of how unexpected the values were. But sure enough, that's what they were. And yes, it was certainly in Ohms, double checked that as well.
Thanks so much for this video, it was very helpful. I have a Kenmore Elite running a LGFLB075LANA Compressor. I'm getting no cool air from the freezer or fresh food compartments. The readings are 10 Ohms / 0 / 0, which I believe is expected. The compressor feels like it is running, it gets warm and there is a slight vibration. When I do the diagnostic test I can feel air coming from both compartments. I've replaced the start relay and get the same results. I also have a 3 n 1 start that I haven't used, but I suspect that won't solve anything. Given all that is the compressor most likely just shot? Unfortunately this fridge is about 5 years and 1 month old. Thanks again for the great video!
Since the compressor is actually running, the 3 in 1 is not needed. The warm air blowing in both compartments indicates some-kinda Sealed System issues. Could be a leak, restriction, or mechanically damaged compressor inside... which is most common for this compressor. In any case, an expensive repair :(
@@Your-Self thank you so much for the fast response. In your experience do you have any guesstimates on how expensive is expensive? (Ballpark). I think I’ve read the compressor itself is covered for 10 years, but not the labor? My experience with Sears on this has been extremely poor so far, and to even have a tech come look at it would cost $170. I don’t want to just throw money away for them to tell me the repair is an obnoxious cost. Thanks again, your videos have far and away been the best I’ve found on this topic.
While LG covers the compressor and labor for the first 5 years and parts only for 10, Sears has its own rules. The lowest you can expect to pay is about $350 for labor if Sears provides the compressor. Not sure if they will cover other items like Filter/Drier, Condenser, Evaporator if there is a leak. So the price can go up to $1000 very quickly.
I checked with Sears and their parts warranty is 10 year for the compressor and 5 year for the sealed system. The fridge is 5 years and 1 month old. Ugh. You seemed to think the symptoms I provided were a sealed system issue. Would the cost of repairing the sealed system + labor approach $1000 if the compressor was still good? Unfortunately it will cost $169 for Sears to even just assess and quote a price. Again, I really appreciate you taking the time to answer.
Unfortunately, there is no way to figure out if it's a bad compressor, a leak, or a restriction without a technician piercing the sealed system to install gauges. If the compressor is bad, it's actually the "best" and the most likely case scenario, and it's covered. If there is a leak on the LOW side, it's the worst-case scenario that may require the Evaporator, Filter, and possibly the Compressor replacement, which may not be covered in this case. And that's how you approach the $1000 bill. Tough decision.
Good afternoon, the video has been of great help but at the time of making the measurements I have 6.2 8.2 and 12.4, the last value should give 14.4 and gives something lower, could it be that the engine is damaged?, (tecumseh 335-ts-259 engine) I also did continuity tests and everything is fine. The fridge was working and began to hear a "click" until one day the fridge did not freeze more, today only turns on the bulb inside the fridge and sounds the "click" every so often, but my doubt is with the resistance values or I don´t know if the PTC may be the source of the problem.
anybody can answer this my system uses overload and ptc system. I am not sure if I use the correct ptc but I hear and see the overload activited and working. is that mean the ptc is correct and motor stuck .. what happens if ptc fits but wrong ..
I have a 1yr old 33 bottle wine fridge that quit cooling. all fans, lights and panel are working. I've checked and the pins are opposite from your diagram like a triangle. Top pin to the left pin 2.5. Top pin to right pin 0. Left pin to right pin 2.5. I've also checked the relay and show 0 resistance. Could the compressor and relay be both bad?
What a great, informative video! Here is my quandary: I have a kegerator with an old school compressor. Found the unit warm one morning. After diagnosing I replaced the relay and start capacitor. The unit ran for a day or so and then did the same thing. I can hear the overload clicking. There is a visible arcing at the connection to the overload when this happens. Again, new components. I manually ran the compressor by taking a power cord and connecting power to the C and M and then jumping the S to get it going. This works fine. Measured resistance on the terminals and got 6.2, 14.7 and 20.9. Not sure what to check next? Does the compressor have a “dead spot” that causes it to have difficulty starting after it stops a few times? Is it just overheating and eventually failing ? Trying to decide if I trash this thing. It is a pretty pricey unit. Hope someone can help. Thanks!
Thanks for the video! On the LG Linear compressor, at the 4:50 mark when you say there is nothing between the other 2 sides and you should not get a reading, your video shows 0 ohms. Should it read 0 ohms or is it actually an open circuit? Thanks!
I have a Lg lmxs27626s recently stopped producing cold air, I feel the fan blowing in the freezer, and can feel it up top as well, the compressor sounds good, and the fan near the coils runs as well, I’ve done the test 1 and 2 from pcb, I also checked the fuse with a meter i do get 22 22 on the display but from one of your comments that doesn’t mean anything. I did notice some moisture near the bottom of fridge while access the compressor/coil not sure if that was leaked fluid or possible freezer items melting and leaked out. Any advice would be greatly appreciated as technicians are so expenses be to come out to diagnose
This model has LG linear compressor, which is the most common problem in the system. LG will typically replace the compressor for free if it's under 5 years old. However, this model also has 2 cooling evaporators. And the one in the fridge compartment, most of the time, has a refrigerant leak. Which may not be covered by LG. You have about a 50:50 chance of one of these issues. Unfortunately, it's impossible to figure out which one it is without a tech.
I have a Kenmore 795 with LG Linear Compressor I install a pierce valve I am seeing 60psi is that s sign of a bad compressor? I can hear the compressor running but it is not getting cold.
Probably yes. If you have 60 PSI when the fridge is unplugged and the same 60 PSI when the compressor runs, the compressor is probably (inefficient) bad.
I just seen your video, you seem very knowledgeable and helpful, thank you. I am working on a Kenmore Cold Spot Embraco em2z 80 HLT compressor The readings are 8.4 5.7 11.4 When I plug it in the compressor turns on but shuts off in a few seconds. I unplug and plug back in it does the same thing.
The resistance numbers are little off but could be due to inaccurate multimeter. If the compressor starts for a few seconds and stops, this could be due to a bad starting device. It may look similar to my starting device in the video, but it's a different type. You may have a TSD (Time Starting Device), which typically fails the way you describe. Try replacing it, and if that doesn't help, the compressor may be bad. Good luck!
New updated LG compressors have been around for a few years only. Unfortunately, that's not enough time to determine if they are any better than the previous version.
Hi my problem is we had a brief power out age. When power resumed ,I smelled a burnt plastic smell. The fan worked but the compressor relay was fried. I have a 3 way so I hooked it up and I heard a brief start noise then nothing. I did the 3prong test on compressor and it checked good. Now I rehooked the power wires to the 3way but there’s no juice there at all when I turn fridge on. I checked the wall plugin and get 120 volts. Any ideas?
I checked out your video because I am trying to diagnose a display case chiller that we have that won't cool. It appears that the compressor is running but it is very quiet. Capacitor checks out OK, and the relay and cut-out both appear fine. Checking the pins on the compressor I'm getting what appear to be high but logical readings of 15 , 30 and 45 ohms. I'm basically trying to check as much as I can before calling someone to come and re-gas the system and check for leaks. Are the readings too high?
The readings are on a higher side, but just fine. If there are fans in your chiller, make sure they are running. Otherwise, it's time to call a technician to investigate.
@@Your-Self I have just one fan inside the chiller, next to the thermostat control, and that's working fine. It's a Fujidenzo chiller and every video online appears to be about finding leaks and re-gassing. So don't see any reason why mine should be any different. Thanks for your answer.
Great video! I have linear on LSFXC2476S, shows 9.5 between the bottom and back pins, nothing on other two, also not shorted out. Refrigerator and freezer get cold, but eventually warm up. Board shows 6 flashes. Any ideas? Thanks!
The 6 flashes could mean a lot of things, but mostly a bad compressor. Even if it checks out good with a multimeter. If the compressor was just replaced, the problem could be with a restriction created during the installation. If it wasn't replaced yet, it's best to call LG directly. They may replace it for free (under a 5-year warranty) or give you a free compressor. You'll pay for the installation though.
If the compressor is running, the board is good. Usually, when the compressor is running but not cooling, means a bad compressor internally. Sometimes, however, there could be a refrigerant leak. In this case, a tech will need to attach gauges to check the internal pressures.
hi @yourself , first thanks for your great videos and thanks for your time, it's truly appreciated...i have a LG LFXS28566M around 4 years old, recently stopped cooling, everything seems to be working visually and audibly, lights come on..fans come on..compressor runs, i changed the relay with new one just to make sure...didn't do much...i pierced the vaccum side of the copper pipe with a "bullet piercing" thinking it might be low on freon, i followed all instructions on doing it and nothing , the pressure when i open the valve on all vids i watched reads negative or at least runs towards low as a vaccum, on mine it only goes as high as i release freon and stays there, i tried so many times to release and refill freon in hopes of it working but no luck so far, on the test from motherboard it gives me error "22"...and nothing else...no led flashes and no blown fuses....tested the compressor as you showed in this video everything checks except for the ground to pin which reads between 10-11...not 7.5 or 8...i am really lost at this point...any suggestion you might have would help...i really apologize for the lengthy comment, and thank you in advance for any suggestion you may have.
Unfortunately, these Linear compressors are very finicky. You must charge them with the exact amount of refrigerant gas as per the label. Also, it's very possible the compressor got weak and can't pump. So you may need a new one. Since you already have a bullet valve installed, check the Static pressure first (refrigerator unplugged). The static pressure should be around 50-60 PSI in a fully charged system. Then start the compressor, and the pressure should drop to around 0 PSI. If the pressure drops only by a little, let's say, down to 20-40 PSI, the compressor is bad. But if the pressure goes into a vacuum, there may be a restriction in the filter/drier or the capillary (thinnest) tube.
@@Your-Self thanks a lot, i tried the static pressure and it still says around 65-70 even after i turn on the compressor...as if it's not vacuuming at all...
@@Your-Self thanks brother, sounds like a new fridge to me and never LG because so far i seen only horror stories from them, they really don't respect customers at all
In the split phase type, are the absolute resistance values important or only the sum? I have read other places that the delta between Run and Start should be about .5 Ohms. If much more than that then there is likely a turn short. My compressor values are 4.6 6.7 and 11.3. So they add up but have a large difference.
As long as the Run and the Start values are different and add up together, the windings should be fine. If the condenser fan (next to the compressor) is running, but the compressor is not, the Start Relay could be bad. The compressor could also be mechanically locked inside... there is no test for that.
Have a LG LFX33975ST. Has a linear compressor and ohms around 12. Has an error code 22. The compressor is running. Fans are working and no icing up. Wondering if it could be low on freon?
Yes, it could be low on refrigerant gas. But most likely, the compressor is going bad. LG typically replaces those linear compressors for free in the first 5 years. After that, you pay labor costs. I'm not familiar with error code 22. But when you run a test cycle from the main control board, code 22 22 will indicate the second stage of the test.
Great video . I have a Westinghouse WSE7000SE , and the control module seems to have failed , fridge light was flickering , then turn off whilst the door was open , it was still staying cold , but then the fridge went dead , and the freezer light was the only thing working . I thought i would check the compressor before buying a new control buzz box , and the readings i am getting is 26.2+11.8 =38 , which makes sense , but they are all pretty high readings . Even though the value equation adds up , why would they be so high ?
The manufacturer of your compressor decided to go with the higher resistance wires. But the readings look normal. The flickering light points to a problem with the control board or the light itself. Also, a shorted (wet) DC fan motor, can overload the control board, so it can't supply power to the rest of the refrigerator... it gets pretty complicated with newer refrigerators. I guess replacing the control board would be a good first step without technician involvement.
@@Your-Self The fridge is totally dead , only freezer light is working . The starter relay and overload are high readings also , but its a 240v fridge . I replaced the diode on the control board and will do the 35v capacitors , as they look swollen on the tops . THANKS for your reply .
Hi Mate . I ended up replacing the zener diode and all four 35v capacitors and the fridge is perfect . It was your information that enabled me to do fix it , i am extremely grateful , thank you !!
@@Your-Self Thanks, but I don't see a box behind the compressor probably 20 years old. how would I find out what kind of compressor it is? it says LG MC57LAUM
I looked up the image of the label of this compressor, and it looks like a regular compressor. It's strange that all terminals are exactly the same so it's probably toast. On the bright side, it worked for 20 years... unlike newer refrigerators.
Thank you for the video. I have a LG LFXS29626S French Door with a Linear Compressor LGB075LBNA (~ 4 years old). Fridge runs but does not cool (Freezer nor Refrigerator). Compressor does not get warm, lines do not get hot or cold. Condenser and evaporator fans run (jumpered door out), blows warm air inside fridge. No fault codes or alarms. Made sure not in DEMO Mode. Replaced main PCB board and Run Capacitor. No change. Checked continuity on thermal overload, its good (not open). Installed pierce valve on low side, has refrigerant, not low. Checked the resistance between top and bottom left prong on compressor, measured 8.6 ohms. $240 in parts trying to troubleshoot and repair. In your opinion, is the compressor shot? Anything else you recommend? Thanks in advance for any advice.
I'm afraid you are correct about the compressor being shot. LG Linear compressors have a weak internal valve. So it's typical for the compressor to just idle and not compress the gas. Compressors under 5 years old are covered by LG full warranty, but after installing the piercing valve on the low side, I'm not sure if they will replace it for free. Good luck!
I have an old school compressor and it reads perfect at 9.3, 5.4 and 14.7. I have a new relay, and it vibrates but it doesn't cool the fridge, oy part I haven't replaced is the overload switch but I tested it and it test fine. I'm not sure what to do next from here.. Any suggestions?
If the compressor works (vibrates), the overload is good. Do the fans, by the compressor and inside the freezer, work? If they do, you may have a defrost problem (Evaporator is full of icy-frost), or a refrigerant leak (an expensive repair).
Great job on the video :) if the linear compressor had a ohm reading on 9 and seems to be running (as there is no clicking and no cooling) would that be a no coolant issue even though its throwing a 22 code on a LG fridge, Thanks for your help
Are you sure it's throwing the 22 code? If you are running the Test from the small button on the PCB, it's just showing the second stage of the Test Mode. And the third Test will be 33. Typically, LG linear compressors run (vibrate) but don't cool when bad. If it's under 5 years old, LG may replace it absolutely free. The lower possibility is that the gas has leaked out from the system.
I have exact same issue. Second Diagnostic test via PCB throws 22 error code. No error code on third test. Compressor vibrates all the time but no cooling. Temperature sensor and all fans checks out fine. One pair of Compressor pin shows 10 ohm resistance. Relay doesn’t rattle and compressor starts vibrating immediately without clicking. Out of ideas. Do you think I have bad compressor? It’s about 7 years old. Any idea on labor cost to replace as it has parts warranty on compressor. Appreciate your help.
My Kenmore 795.72493.611 is not cooling fridge nor freezer. In test mode fans blow air in freezer not fridge. Also code 22 22 shows on display window. Is the compressor shot?
Hi Thank you for the video. My Kenmore frig is giving up last week. Fan running, clean condenser, etc. I replaced the relay (prior to watched your video). The compressor does not kicked at all, and if keep on plugged, it got fairly warm. Zero cool air produced. Bottom door frig, model 795.71302.011, compressor sticker showed LG MQ53LAUM. Testing followed your video: 1) No jumping # if touch both on copper tube 2) No jumping # if touching copper tube and the base that attached the pin 3) between pins are 7.8, 5.4 & 11 Is this old school compressor? The hardware look just like your in the vid. The compressor has no mention of “linear” Is the compressor death ? Thanks again for the great info and reply
The resistance between 3 pins seems normal. But I'm not sure if the compressor is shorted to ground or not because your test was inconclusive. You should get some numbers jumping when you scratch the copper pipe with both leads. But you should NOT get any jumps from that copper pipe to any of the 3 pins. If you already replaced the Start Relay, try replacing the white Overload as well. You can test your old start relay in between small holes, probably marked 5 and 6. If you get somewhere 5 to 25 ohms (at room temperature), your old Start relay is good.
I have a recently replaced LG (FC75LBNA) Compressor in my Kenmore Elite French Door Refrigerator. It wasn't turning on but I have been able to position the relay/overload plug to get the compressor to come on but it still isn't cooling enough. My question is this...on the side with the resistance, are those two prong the equivalent to Common, Start and/or Run? If yes, which two do they represent?
On Linear compressors, there is no Start prong. LG calls working prongs Power and Common. It typically takes about 24 hours to reach full cooling potential after compressor replacement. If it's a dual evaporator model, did you open the 3-way valve to completely evacuate the system, and weigh in the right amount of refrigerant? Did you replace the Filter/Drier (it's important after Linear Compressor failure due to debris in the Sealed System)?
@@Your-Self I got this refrigerator after it had been replaced so I am not sure if that was done or not. After 24 hours of running, the refrigerator is down close to temp but the freezer is the same temp. Any ideas as to why this would occur and what I could do to fix?
Newer refrigerators are Hi-Tech machines, and if somebody has already worked on sensitive Sealed System components incorrectly, I'm sorry to say, but there is probably nothing you can do to improve it. Only an experienced LG tech may be able to redo what was already done. (incompatible compressor to the motherboard, permanent or floating restriction, refrigerant leakage, an incorrect amount of refrigerant filled, stuck 3-way valve if dual evaporator - just to name few possible problems)
I have lmx25964st it’s out of warranty, my question is how much power is going to compressor supposed to be I put my meter the 2 wires going to compressor (red, black) it’s only 80v but the compressor listed 175v and the compressor sounds running but not compressing the pressure are both the same high side and low side, cap is ok 10 mfd , is my compressor is bad? And one thing the blinking lights is 5 blinks and my little screen showing 22 . Your help is highly appreciated.
Yes, sounds like the reed valve inside the compressor is cracked. That's why it's not compressing, just idling. LG covers the full repair for the first 5 years, but only supplies a free compressor for 10 years and you pay for the installation.
The 80v is the minimum operational voltage that should create a difference in pressure between the High and the Low sides and cool the refrigerator at a low speed. I didn't see the 5 blinks the first time in your message, but that indicates a locked valve. Either way, the compressor is bad, sorry. 22 indicates that you are in the second stage of the Test Mode, and 33 is the third stage (defrost).
Hi good day to you sir, I have questions again hopefully u can help me. We replaced the compressor with lg replacement compressor vacuum and after we have 600 microns we charge 134a 5.11oz accordingly we turn on since last night and nothing is working compressor vibrate but it only showed 0.22 ams instead of 5.2 ams and pressure won’t change I guess compressor not running right? What we should do next? Your answer is highly appreciated. By the way pressure on low right now is 1.0 high side 66.5
Thanks for the video, I managed to to test my BLDC Frigidaire compressor properly. The compressor is not grounded and the readings between each pair of pins is 17.2, no more no less. This looks very high compared to your average reading for the compressor..so is my compressor shot? the model is fghb2844lf7. If the resistance is fince then I am guessing its the inverter relay board. But trying to make sure before I order one.
The resistance on your compressor sounds a little high, but not unheard-of. BLDC compressors are reliable in general, but inverters are not. The inverter board supposed to get 2 voltages in...120vAC to energize it, and a small variable 3-5vDC from the motherboard. If you can confirm those 2 voltages, but the compressor doesn't run, most likely a relay or something else on the inverter board got damaged. If you take the inverter board out, sometimes you can actually see the burnt marks on the front or the backside.
Have an sumsung inverter compressor and it has all electrical readings fine also control boards seems to be working fine but it seems to be a mechanical compressor internal issue!!! How often is this?
BLDC compressors are very reliable, but of course, anything can happen. If your compressor is not shorted and has all 3 windings the same value, it's probably good. The inverter fails more often. If it gets 120 VAC on two larger wires, and a small DC voltage around ~2.5 V on two smaller wires, but the compressor is not running, the inverter is probably bad.
9.2 sounds normal, and if the compressor is not Shorted to Ground, it should be OK electrically. But it could still be damaged mechanically inside, depending on what your problem is.
@@Your-Self It is cooling just slightly, not completely. I also followed your other video using the 'test and reset button' to confirm the evaporator fan/air flow works. The sound check, using your other video 'not cooling but running' points me to bad compressor. Now patiently following your tip to 'get your money back for not cooling LG fridge'. You are educating folks globally, heartfelt thanks from a DIYer from the beautiful island of Guam!
Since it's slightly cooling, the evaporator coils could be covered in frost/ice due to a Defrost Problem. I'd unplug the fridge for the full 24 hours, so the ice can melt. And then check if the cooling improved. But most likely, the problem is with the compressor itself. I'm sure Guam is a beautiful island, but not sure about LG warranty coverage on the island. Let us know if they can fix or replace it.
@@Your-Self I had performed the defrost process as well. Fortunately, LG extends warranty coverage here as it was purchased at the local Home Depot. Compressor is being shipped by LG USA as we speak.
Hello I have LG with freezer at the bottom. Top fresh food section stopped cooling , air is blowing ( when I open the door and hold the switch I feel the air blowing but it is barely cold). The freezer is a bit colder but nowhere close to freezing temps. Compressor sound like working and it is intensively warm , however both tubes : in and out tubes- are at the same room temperature and the coil is not even warm. The coil is somewhat dusty but nothing major and the fan is blowing air through the coil. Does it mean compressor is Done?! Appreciate any help, thanks
The problem could be with the refrigerant leak. But if it's an LG Linear compressor, most likely it's damaged inside. If your refrigerator is under 5 years old, it's worth calling LG directly, and they may fix it for free.
This is great information. Our 10-year old LG 3-door stopped cooling overnight. The fan runs, but it doesn't look like the compressor is running. There is no start relay/overload plugged into the compressor, just a connector that goes to the grey (actually it's off-white) box mounted to the side of the fridge. Our compressor passed the short test - all three leads measured open when I put one lead on a compressor pin and the other on the copper pipe. However, when I measured lead to lead, I only had one measurement with a reading... but it wasn't on the "right side" winding, it was on the left and it measured 6.9 ohms. The top winding and the right winding both measured open. So, the question is, is the compressor bad? I ask because in your descriptions, my set up looks like a BLDC inverter because there is a grey (off-white) box to the left of the compressor. However, ours does measure similar to the LG Linear example, albeit on the opposite winding. I'm wondering because our unit is an LG, so perhaps the compressor readings are good and I need to test the start capacitor on the grey (off-white) box and/or maybe open the box and look for the start relay? If you're still monitoring this thread, I'd love some feedback before the service tech arrives tomorrow! Thanks :-)
You have one of the earliest LG linear compressor setups with a separate Main PCB and a Drive PCB (inverter box). According to your measurement, the compressor seems OK. You could run a Test Mode by pressing the button on the Main PCB, and see if the compressor and fans run like on this video: ua-cam.com/video/70y61Sq_NU0/v-deo.html Also, you may see a light on the inverter box flashing error codes
@@Your-Self well that's some (hopefully) good news! Compressors aren't cheap :-) We've had good service for 10 years out of this unit and I'd like to keep her going if I can. I ran the push button tests on the main PCB earlier and other than the fan motor coming on, the compressor seeming to not come on, and the front display showing 22, 33, 44 when I was cycling through the tests, it really didn't tell me much. I've got the inverter box apart and see the LED. I'll try to make it flash in the morning when I can reconnect the compressor power leads and plug the unit in. Does that same video link (above?) that shows the list of flashes that equal certain error codes explain how to kick off the tests? Thank you very much for your quick response!!
So, with drive PCB visible and everything plugged in, I ran the tests using the button on the main PCB. The LED on the drive PCB did not illuminate or flash at any time during the test sequence. Generally, on first press, the fan speed increased and I saw 88 on the front panel. On the second press, the fan speed stayed high and the front panel showed 22. On the third press, the fan stopped and 33 was on the front display. Fourth press showed 44 on front display and heard some relay "clicks" on the main PCB. I ended up unplugging the mains and plugging it back in to reset and the fan came on normal speed. At no time is the compressor coming on. I've been unable to find the exact service manual online for our model and am suspicious about trying to troubleshoot further using a different (but close) model's voltage and test point guide. Any thoughts?
@YourSelf . I have an LG Refrigerator Model No: LFXC247226/02. It has stopped cooling. I was told by a technician PCB and compressor needed to change. I bought new PCB Model: EBR78940615 and LG Compressor - FLB075LANA. Hooked by both parts, added refrigerant and what not. The fridge powered on but still will not cool. It remains hot. What do you think maybe the problem here?
Your refrigerator model seems not to be valid. If you install the new "Universal" compressor FLS075LANA, you'll need to update the original PCB or buy a new PCB and update the software with a special LG jig as well. Since you installed the old version compressor FLB075LANA, you should be able to use the old PCB. The LG Linear compressors are very slow on cooling, so it may take a whole day to feel the difference. Also, they are very sensitive to the amount of refrigerant you put in. The amount has to be exactly as on the sticker.
I have an LG linear compressor. I checked compressor ohms, freon pressure and both are good. Compressor appears to run, but inlet and outlet pressures are stagnant. When I put it in test mode the voltage on the main PCB only gets to 100 volts and shuts down. The tech sheet recommends replacing the PCB, but at $200, I'm a little hesitant. Is there an easy way to test run the compressor before I take a dive on the PCB?
LG linear compressors can run directly from the 120VAC wall outlet. You can apply the voltage on those 2 pins that you tested for ohms. The compressor will run but sound a little louder than usual.
@@Your-Self Thanks, you saved me from spending $200 on a PCB. It turned out to be the 1 year old compressor. I will never purchase an LG appliance again.
LG recognized the problem with its Linear compressor and extended the free-replacement program for up to 5 years. Now they install an updated version of that compressor, which supposed to last longer... we'll see.
@@Your-Self Its actually a Kenmore refrigerator with LG parts. Sears replaced the LG compressor 1.5 years ago, but only gave me a 90 day warranty on it. I still have the receipt for the work. I'm going to see if LG will honor the warranty on the compressor. Not really sure if I got the new and improved compressor, but 1.5 years is unacceptable. Thanks again.
I have an lg linear compressor and according to your test it's good. Relay is good. I want o check for feon leaks with soap and water. I already checked behind the access panel in the bottom rear and did find anything. Should I check the coils behinf the back wall also and if so dies the refrigerator have power while checking? I was going to power down ofcourse while accessing and was wondering if I should power it back on to testcwith sosp and water. Thank you in advance as I'm pulling my hair out after checking everything I can think of.
The Sealed System is always under pressure, so the refrigerator can be unplugged to check for Freon leak. If the compressor is running, but not cooling, most likely it's worn-out mechanically inside. How old is your fridge? It could be under LG 5, or 10-year warranty.
@@Your-Self I'm trying to start a little hobby/startup business of buying used faulty refrigerators and trying to fix them and sell for a profit. I bought it for $73 and rolled the dice it wasn't going to be the compressor. I felt like a took a class in refrigerator repair with everything I learned. I like tinkering with things but this has me beyond frustrated. So long story short its 7 years old I believe but I can't use the warranty. Thank you for the response, maybe take the rear wall of the inside and check those coils for a leak. One more question please. I've heard you can transport them on it's side for short periods of time if you allow the same period of time after you unload and stand it up before you plug it in. Any truth in that?
To figure out whether it's a leak or an inefficient compressor, you need to check the pressure inside the Sealed System... low pressure indicates a leak. If transporting the refrigerator laying down, the oil from the compressor will flow into the pipes where it's not supposed to be. Giving "enough" time the oil should drain back into the compressor.
Great videos. LG LFC25760SB. Fridge will only cool to 45 degrees and freezer stays at around 30. Fans running in fridge and freezer. Compressor running. Compressor is hot to the touch. Multimeter is registering 4.4, 7.2 and 11.5 (top) on compressor. Ran through tests on PCB. All seems fine. Any advice?
You have a basic compressor, which is more reliable than LG linear! First, try to clean the condenser coil from dust and hair with a brush and vacuum. Also, move your fridge a couple of inches away from the wall for better air circulation and cooling of the compressor. If that doesn't help, the defrost system may be malfunctioning. Remove everything from the freezer, and unscrew the back-wall to look at the evaporator coil. If it's full of a thick layer of ice and snow, the problem is with the defrost. If there is just a little frost on the top or the bottom of the coil, the refrigerant gas is probably leaking out from the sealed system... that's the worst case of scenario :( If you have IR temperature gun, check the temperature of the condenser coil as on this video: ua-cam.com/video/ipwOerjFITg/v-deo.html
YourSelf thanks for the additional tips. I cleaned the condenser coil and the rest of the mechanical cabinet of dust, etc. and went through a full defrost of the fridge. I plugged it back in and the fridge cooled to 40, but the freezer didn’t get to a temp where ice packs would freeze. I then used the infrared thermometer gun to check the condenser coil temp. It showed around 19 degrees warmer than the air. Because this is a basic compressor, it should be closer to 30 degrees warmer, correct? Are we at replacement of the fridge?
I'd call a tech, and ask for a quote on suspected "low side leak." See how much, hypothetically, will cost you to replace an evaporator (with the leak), and refill the refrigerant. Maybe, it's worth it. Just keep in mind, that the technician may find some other problem, because it's easier to diagnose in person. Good luck!
Great video. I have LG lfx25974sw from last 7 years. It stopped cooling. I checked both capacitors from panel, both good, fan and compressor working and from my left bottom to top was 7.5. However, coils are room temperatures and one of the compressor line does get slightly hot if let it running for an hour. My technician suggested that the compressor is bad. Any suggestions. I am very non-technical but gained a lot of knowledge from UA-cam from people like you who actually share their knowledge to benefit other and I have benefitted Thanks. BN
It seems you've done everything you can on your part. The problem is with the compressor, the refrigerant leak or restriction. Any of these problems should be repaired by a tech and kinda expensive. So I guess it's time to decide if you want to fix it or buy a new one. If you have the receipt, LG may cover the cost of the new compressor, but you'll pay for labor.
@@Your-Self Thank yo for your reply. LG sent me correct compressor but wrong Board and after figuring that out got new board. Earlier tried the Wrong board which only sent power to compressor as other would not connect and it ran for few minutes and then died. Service man connected new compressor and put some Freon but the Compressor would not work and still does not work even after he put some hard start as he said that it by passes the Board but the compressor would not start. He does not pay any attention to my Please to check the capacitor, over load or relay. I have bought two Volta meters but don't know how to check the capacitor, relay and the overload. Other tech I cant get as he promises but no show. Any suggestions. If none that is OK. Thanks and Happy Holidays.
Thank you very much for your video. I have lg with linear compressor and the freezer is not getting cold enough. The technician in my place is really bad. He already change the main board but still the same. I have it for almost 3 years. The measurements i found are 5.4-15,4-19,5. What do you think? Please reply!!
Some LGs have regular compressors installed. So your measurements should be OK. Did you buy your fridge new or used? Maybe somebody worked on it before and made a mess. The refrigerator could be leaking gas slowly on the LOW side. It may take a month or a year to leak out completely with reduced performance. The only way to prove it is for a tech to attach gauges to check the pressure inside. Make sure to clean the condenser coils near the compressor. I'm assuming all fans work well, right?
@@Your-Self the fans are working fine and i clean the condenser. It was new and on the door it says linear compressor with 10 years warranty. The tech just opened the cover inside the freezer and he said i can see the leak. My wife was at home then and he wanted to take it for a week to check. But he is very bad tech. I will have to pay him and he will do nothing. What do you suggest me to do? He replaced the main board at September and for 1-2 months it was okay but after that my warranty expired.
Hmm, if it says Linear on the door, the compressor should be Linear as well. Does it actually say Linear on the compressor itself? (it could be a small text, hard to see) Recently, LG extended the free Linear compressor replacement warranty to 5 years. And 10 years parts only. However, I'm a bit confused by your compressor situation, so not sure what to suggest.
My LG Linear compressor runs and has a 10.5 resistance between the two posts that show a resistance, not 7.5. Is this normal? The others read 0 as you said between them.
If your compressor runs with 10.5 ohms of resistance, it's normal. And that means that the problem could be with the refrigerant (Freon) leak or the compressor got "weak." Which is typical for the LG linear compressor. Assuming all the fans are running, it's going to be an expensive repair, sorry.
How do I know if it's the compressor for sure though? This compressor was replaced 5 years ago, but I know they have a bad history. It could be a leak anywhere in the system.
Hi thanks for the great videos! New subscriber here. I have an old-school compressor that won’t start. I changed out the start relay but still not working. My readings are across the three pins 5.4 3.2 8.2 my low readings don’t exactly match the total high rating. About .4 difference. is this enough to indicate a problem with the compressor? Thanks!
Your compressor readings seem to be OK. Did you check if the compressor is shorted to ground? If the fan (next to the compressor) is not running either, the thermostat (temperature sensor) could be bad.
@@Your-Self hello! Yes I checked continuity between Pinz and ground seems to be OK. Both fans are spinning OK. I thought I eliminated the thermostat because I checked for continuity across its connectors at room temp is that right? Thanks for your quick reply!
Excellent video but I'm still a little unsure on my testing. I have an Old School compressor that seems to not be coming on. I've replaced the capacitor and start relay with no luck. The ohm readings are 5.4, 4.3, and 8.8. Based on your video the full length of windings should add up to about 9.7 but I'm a full ohm lower. None of the pins go to ground (using the copper wiring as ground). Does this indicate it's bad? I'm perplexed on what to try next. Thanks
Your ohm readings are close enough, so electrically, the compressor is probably good. If the fan next to the compressor is running, the temperature sensor is good as well. It's possible, that the compressor is mechanically locked inside. Sometimes, a 3 in 1 hard start device can unlock the compressor. But there is no guarantee how long it will work. It could last one day or years.
@@Your-Self thanks. I'm familiar enough with electrical work to try. For whatever it's worth I get zero sounds from the compressor when plugging in the fridge and waiting. Both capacitors and start relays I've used pass multimeter tests. If a hard start was needed would I hear any sound before hand? If the hard start works do I just leave it in place or go back to the old relay if it "un-sticks it"?
You may have a loose wire on the multimeter if the reading is not stable and is jumping too much. What is the actual problem? The compressor is not running at all or running, but not cooling the refrigerator?
If you can feel the airflow in the freezer, but it's not cold, there are two possible problems. Either the refrigerant gas has leaked out. Or, most likely, the internal reed valve cracked... typical for a Linear compressor. If the fridge is under 5 years old, LG usually replaces the compressor absolutely free.
Your reading is a little high but could be attributed to an uncalibrated multimeter, so it's not bad electrically. What is the actual problem with your refrigerator? If the compressor is running but not cooling, most likely, the mechanical valve inside the compressor is damaged. So the compressor needs to be replaced because of that.
@@Your-Self Thank you for the quick reply. All fans are running, no frost build up behind the panel at the back of the lower freezer drawer. I've replaced the overload switch assembly and now the circuit board, and vacuumed out the dust from all the components in/around the compressor/radiator/etc. How can I be assured it is the mechanical valve? There is no rattle or rough sound or click. #stumped Is a failed mechanical valve common / part of the known issue for these linear compressors?
Yes, it's a typical problem with LG linear compressors. The compressor seems to be running, but it's only idling, not compressing due to the cracked valve. That's why LG extended their free-replacement warranty to 5 years. The less likely problem is that the refrigerant has leaked out. To verify pressure inside, a tech needs to install gauges.
@@Your-Self I will call LG in the hopes this unit made March 2015 is covered, I read something about pushing it to 10y, otherwise I'll get it done locally. You rock, yours was the only video I could find with compressor specific readings. HUGE help.
I have a LG fridge with Linear Compressor. Compressor tested and Ok I bought new starter relay so relay is OK Capacitor tested and OK All fans are working including Coiled fan. However, the compressor not start (not running) when I plugged in the power. Can you tell me what else can be wrong? Thanks
LG linear compressors don't have a starter relay... you probably mean overload relay. The linear compressor is driven by the computer board (PCB). So, the board may be bad. Linear compressors can be started and run with a "cheater cord" straight from the wall outlet. But I won't recommend doing it for nonprofessionals.
@@Your-Self thank you for your reply. I press the test button on the board and it gave me an error code 22. It means problem with compressor relay. I changed the compressor relay, but the compressor still not running.
The number 22 is not an error code, at least in the USA market. It indicates Test-2. When you press the test button a third time, 33 should come up on most models. Other models just have two tests.
My GoldStar compressore wen measuring.. Have resistant with 18.2ohm, 44.8ohm and 58ohm. Is that consider compressor still funtion? When i switch on the, the compressor no running but get warm.
The resistance looks too high, but could be due to inaccurate multimeter. Does the compressor make a humming sound when it tries to start, and then do you hear a CLICK about every 20 seconds?
Thank you for the video. I followed the steps and found the reading as 8.6, OL, OL. I have LG model LFXS29766S /00. I checked voltage coming from main circuit board to thermistor assembly and found it fluctuating and it never reached up to 110v. does it mean main board is having issue? both freezer and fridge are not cooling. overload protector is having continuity. thermistor assembly output to compressor is also not reaching up to 110v. not sure if it is suppose to be 110v. what could be the issue here? Thank you
The compressor seems to be good electrically with 8.6 ohms. Does it actually run? The control board supplies the compressor with a variable 80-220 voltage. So if you are getting at least 80VAC the compressor should be running well. Do all the fans run? Did you see the video on how to run the Test Mode on LG? ua-cam.com/video/70y61Sq_NU0/v-deo.html
I have an LG refrigerator that stopped cooling and was told by a technician that the compressor needs to be replaced. Several days later (after we ordered a new refrigerator and removed spoiled food) it has begun cooling and has returned to normal cooling and freezing levels. Is it possible that because the refrigerator had been overloaded that once it was emptied it could begin working again?
An overloaded refrigerator can still cool, but not very well, especially when air-vents are blocked. If yours didn't cool at all, the fact that you unplugged it for a while, and then plugged it back it, reset the control board. It's like restarting a computer or your phone, sometimes helps.
@@Your-Self Thanks very much for the analysis and prompt reply. The refrigerator had been turned off accidentally then turned back on. After it turned on it has been working well and allowed us to feel confident to cancel our order to replace the appliance.
I have Linear compressor testing out at "0", "0", and "9.5". but the load from the motherboard is only providing 58v. Would that be a defective motherboard? The problem is no cooling but all accessorizes seem to be working. Compressor runs but very little temp variation from inlet to outlet. any thoughts or suggestions?
It sounds like a bad PCB (motherboard) because the typical working voltage should be at least 80 VAC up to 180 VAC. However, linear compressors internally have a weak suction reed valve. If the valve is broken, the compressor will run, but will not compress refrigerant gas. The outlet and the condenser coil will stay around room temperature. ONLY if you are comfortable working with electricity, you can bypass the PCB and plug the Linear compressor directly to the wall 120V. Use those two pins were you measured the 9.5 ohms of resistance. The compressor will sound louder but will work. If it starts cooling, the PCB is bad. If it still is not cooling, the compressor is probably bad. Also, the refrigerant may have leaked out, and to verify that, you'll need to check the pressure inside the LOW and possibly the HIGH side as well.
Hi Mark, I have the exact same issue as you. Were you able to fix your fridge? Everything on my fridge seem to be working other than not cold or cold enough. I measured the voltage on the motherboard going to the compressor and it was ~150VAC. But the voltage across the 2 overload protector’s terminals to the compressor was less than 50VAC. Could a faulty overload protector be the root cause?
Hi Mark, this is what I am afraid of 😫. How did you figure it out it was the compressor after all? And did you have to replace the compressor by yourself, soldering and all? Mine is still under 10 years, so I will try to get LG to replace the compressor and pay the labor cost.....
Paul Chang After I found out that the compressor had a 19 year warranty I called Sears out and they confirmed the compressor was bad. Basically they hooked up gauges and when they determined that it still had freon their only conclusion was to replace. Of course the fridge was out of warranty but the compressor was a “parts only” replacement. Still had to pay labor.
I was just about to head to the big box store and buy a new fridge until I came across your video. I get a good ohms reading of 7.0 to 8.0 on the linear compressor. My problem is no cooling throughout the entire fridge. All fans work. Any advice is greatly appreciated.
A compressor can fail either electrically or mechanically. Since you have a good reading, most likely, your compressor has failed mechanically. That is typical for an LG linear compressor. There is a small chance that the refrigerant has leaked out from the system. And to know for sure, you need a tech to install gauges to check the pressure. Either way, it's an expensive repair.
Great video. I have a linear compressor and tested each contact and no reading. The compressor is vibrating but the unit is not cooling. Does this mean I have a bad compressor. LG frig 7 years old. Thanks
Since the compressor is vibrating, you should have at least one reading (possibly a bad multimeter). However, the LG linear compressors can fail the way you described. Running vibrating but not cooling (crack in the reed valve). A Less common issue with LG units is a refrigerant leak from the system. Which would have the same symptoms. Either way, it's an expensive repair (((
Every compressor is a little different, and the exact resistance range is written in the tech-sheets for your unit. But 9 ohms between two terminals is typically a good number within the specification.
OL means "Open" because there is nothing there. As long as you have a small resistance between 2 pins and "OL" between others, it should be good electrically. But the linear compressor is very weak inside mechanically. The only way to prove it is to measure the pressure inside the Sealed System.
So do you think up to now lg hasnt resolve the problems with their linear compresors? I just learned this problem after i bought a side by side 24 cu.f lg fridge so it would still breaks after a year? Give me some tips how to prolong the compresor's life if theres any pls.
Newer refrigerators come with a different operating algorithm, which supposed to improve the life of the compressor. However, only time will tell whether it works or not. Meanwhile, to prolong the life of your fridge, make sure that there are at least a couple of inches of free space between the fridge and all walls and cabinets. Air circulation is important for cooling the hot compressor and making it last longer. Also, clean the condenser coil regularly of dust and pet hair with a vacuum and brush.
I'm getting 0 on my lg linear. I replaced my relay and it sounds like the compressor is on, I can feel it viberating, it's cool but not cold. Am I maybe running the test wrong? Or would the compressor still kick on sometimes even if it reads 0?
If the compressor is capable of running, it can't read 0 between all 3 pins. Maybe a bad meter? Need to look inside the freezer at Evaporator Coil. If it has a thick layer of icy frost, the problem could be with the Defrost. If no frost at all, the compressor could be going weak, or there is a leak of refrigerant gas from the system. LG typically replaces weak compressors free for the first 5 years.
I have my hand in the compressor and it's running but still getting error code 22 after replacing the relay. I have an appointment with a tech in a few days. Does this sound like my compressor needs to be replaced. It is a little warm
Running but not cooling, is a typical problem with the LG Linear compressors. But I can't be sure without being there. Also, I'm not familiar with the error code 22. It would be nice if your tech could explain what that means. Because the only similar code I know is 22 22 when you run Test#2 from the motherboard.
Thank you for the video! My compressor is the BLDC I got a new inverter box installed today, plugged it in fridge and it worked! So I’m happy but then I went to check in 30 minutes later compressor was super super hot!!! Why is that??? Thanks for your help in advance!
The compressor could be hot because your fridge was really warm, and it takes a lot of power to cool it down initially. After that should be easier. The condenser coils next to the compressor could be covered in dust and hair, clean it as needed. The fan cooling the condenser and the compressor could be failing and working intermittently. The fridge could be jammed into the corner without any gaps for sufficient air-flow behind it. Make sure there are about 2" gaps on all sides of your fridge. Difficult to say exactly why, without being there to inspect it. Maybe it's normal operating temperature for your compressor, you just never noticed it before!?
Hi, I have in BLDC compressor but not running. I checked the windings with 6.50 ohms on the three windings but when I checked the body of the compressor with the chassis I get resistance. Does this mean a new compressor is required?
BLDC compressors are generally very reliable. So make sure you are testing correctly, individual pins in the middle to the compressor's body or copper tubing. Not compressor body to the chassis frame. Most of the time the inverter (gray box) burns out before the compressor.
Before you continue spending money on parts, it's better to verify that the Motherboard is receiving the 120 VAC. And the inverter is receiving the same 120 VAC. The inverter also needs to receive a "run" DC voltage from the motherboard which varies between 2-5 VDC (on thinner wires). What is your refrigerator model number?
Did you verify that the compressor is not shorted to ground? Does the condenser fan (next to compressor) run? Do fans inside the freezer and fridge run? Do lights inside work? Does the Inverter get 120 VAC on Black & Orange wires? Does the Motherboard send a small DC voltage (up to 12 VDC) to the inverter? You can check it at the motherboard connector J9 pins 7 and 8. If you are not sure how to do all those measurements, maybe it'll be cheaper to call a tech to figure the problem before replacing other parts.
I have been searching for an answer to my issue for 2 days and have come up empty. I hope you can help. I had a new chest freezer delivered 2 days ago and it was unboxed in my house. I noticed the vent grooves were very dirty so I ran my finger across it and it was either gray dust or powder. Before plugging it in, I wanted to make sure what I saw wasn't also inside the vent so I removed the panel and it is like new. I was relieved, but then noticed the compressor has a hardball sized discoloration on it, like it faded to grey. I have looked at dozens of compressor images online (can't find the exact replacement part) and they are all shiny and pure black. I'm wondering if this is not a brand new freezer after all.
It's impossible to say without looking at it. If you could take a photo or two, post it on a photo-sharing site, and share the link here, it would be great. Or make a short, but quality video, and post it on your UA-cam channel, so I can look at it.
@@Your-Self From my point of view, I'd think a brand new compressor is all shiny black and this looks like it's used and faded. I don't even know if the paint fades in time so I'm hoping you have some input from this image. I scanned that code and looked up the # but never found anything on a search. ibb.co/zF0WxLB
This compressor does look discolored, but everything else looks brand new. The discoloration is probably from a manufacturing mishap, but it's only cosmetic. I wouldn't worry about it unless the freezer is not working now.
@@Your-Self Thank you so much. You've eased my mind. I decided to plug it in and see what happens and it's cooling properly without any noise. I did read in my searches some compressors will make odd noises if there's a problem.
I checked the resistance by putting one lead on the pins and the other one on the copper pipe but the numbers didn't jump around. But when I checked the resistance between the pins the numbers do jump around. Does that mean the compressor is bad?
Nice video. I never heard of a linear compressor. Not knowing, if I was checking it and found 0.0 readings on 2 of the pins , I would think the winding's were shorted together. Is the compressor three phase or does it have a start and run winding. Thanks for the video
A cheap multimeter will show 0.0, but a more advanced meter will show OL. An LG linear compressor has just one run winding, unlike 3-phase or conventional start and run.
The circuit board supplies the compressor with a variable voltage based on needs. The typical operating voltage could be anywhere from 80Vac to 200+ Vac
Hi, I was wondering If you can help. My compressor looks to be working. It is an LG linear compressor. Test 9 ohms. Fan is working. The evaporator coils are cold behind the freezer panel but neither the fridge or freezer are getting cold. They are not warm but definitely not cold no matter what I set the temp to. Any help would be appreciated.
Is the fan inside the freezer also working? When you look at the evaporator coil, it should be evenly covered in a thin layer of frost. If there is no frost, there may be a leak in the system, or the compressor is inefficient (bad.)
Yes the fan is working fine. There is no frost on the coils but they are noticeably cold (not freezer cold however). My next step was to test the pressure of the Freon then start ruling out if it is a leak or the compressor. Does that sound like a right approach? Also any idea as to what the pressure should be? Thanks again!
If your LG refrigerator is under 5 years old, call LG first, before you puncture the hole in the system. They should replace the compressor for free if you have the receipt. The pressure varies by model. But typically, if you leave the refrigerator unplugged for about an hour, then install the gauge on the LOW side and see close to 0 PSI... the refrigerant is gone, leaked out. If you see around 40 PSI the gas is still there. Start the compressor and watch the gauge. If the pressure drops from 40 to about 0, the compressor should be good, but if it drops just a little, let"s say from 40 to 30, the compressor is bad, which is common for Linear Compressors.
Wow, thanks for the info. The comments have also been a help but I have yet to find the root cause. I have an old school Amana. Last night something suddenly started buzzing, not wake the dead loud but loud enough to hear it from another room. I unplugged the fridge and plugged it back in. The buzzing stopped but I heard a cyclical clicking every couple minutes. Fast forward to my investigation. The compressor is not running but gets hot. All fans run. The ptc relay does not rattle and there is continuity between the 5 & 6 female holes. The overload is separate and has continuity, although a bit of resistance. Is this an issue? I have not yet checked the capacitor as my DVOM does not have that capability. This is interesting. The cyclical click is actually 2 clicks. I hear the first click and the inside light dims a bit and the fan slows a bit. About 10 seconds later I get another click and the light and fan return to normal. This cycle is happening once a minute or just under. If I put a finger on the ptc and another finger on the overload, I feel the clicks more with the finger that is on the overload. I did the 3 pin resistance check per this video and although I didn't get 2 numbers that total the 3rd, at about 16, 12, and 8 ohms, I was as close as some others that have commented. Aside from the capacitor check, have I missed anything?
How much of the resistance does your overload have? It should be close to 0... something between 0.0 - 0.4 is OK. If it's higher than that, check your multimeter leads against each other. Leads themselves may have some resistance in them.
@@Your-Self I checked it again with a better meter and yes, it is almost nothing. I was also able to check the capacitor with the borrowed meter. It measured 11.8mf. That doesn't leave much unchecked.
Yeah, it points to a seized compressor. Even if it checks out well with a multimeter, it can lock up mechanically. You could still try replacing the start relay just to rule it out completely. But looks like the compressor is bad.
I personally haven't. But a Hard-start kit can give you an extra boost to possibly unlock the compressor. You could try an RCO810 for a smaller/mini refrigerator. Or an RCO410 for larger/regular units. With a Hard-start kit, the compressor may start and run, but it can still overheat and cause problems. Just keep an eye on it.
Great videos! I have an lg lfx28978st 10 years+ (just out of warranty) and a month ago it started to moan (it was running hot) so I cleaned out the back and it went back to normal. Last week it stopped holding temperature, 20 in the freezer ( Ice cream like whipped cream) and the fridge is about 40 (a bit warm) and runs almost continuously. I pulled it apart (freezer) all the fans run, coil in the freezer only frost in a couple places and I ran the tests/reset based on your other video it didn't really do anything and there are no LED flashes. No signs of R143a leak. I tried testing the ohms but I am not getting a decent reading. The buzzer only sounds on 1 connection, but if I turn to different scales I get something out of another and I'm not sure of the reading as the scales are messing me up. The 7.5 ohms is really 7.5K right? Based on what my Fridge is doing I assume it's dying, is that correct or is there something that would make it run all the time and not cool, like a clog which i would assume be coming from something in the compressor.
Your model has a Linear compressor, so the resistance should be a small 6-9 ohms (not "K ohms"). The fact that you got 10+ years out of this LG compressor, is a great deal! Your assumption is correct, the problem is with the Sealed System. Any component of the System repair will be expensive (~$600-$1000). So you need to decide if it's worth the repair.
@@Your-Self I looked at LG fridges yesterday and noticed where the door has water and ice still says linear but on the other side it says on a little badge “inverter linear”. Did they change the probable magic compressors or did it always say that? I did see where they have a software update to prevent their common line leaks due to corrosion from killing the compressor.
I have an LG linear compressor and on the two pins that have any measurement, my digital multimeter is jumping all over the place with negative numbers from -.03 to -56. I tried an analog meter and the two pins measured between 1.0 and 0. I suspect this is not good. I'm a novice with multimeters so it could be user error. By the way, the fan blows but compressor does not turn on.
It sounds like a bad multimeter or a user error. Have you tried the Test Button to see if the compressor runs as on the next video...? ua-cam.com/video/70y61Sq_NU0/v-deo.html
@@Your-Self Yes, did the test and the fan comes on but not the compressor. Checked the multimeter and found the red line dangling by a thread from the plug in so that would do it. Need to get a new one and recheck. Thanks for quick reply.
ONLY if you are comfortable working with electricity, you could check and run the LG Linear compressor by applying the 120VAC directly to 2 pins where you measured the resistance. This works only on Linear compressors, and if it runs like that, your motherboard is probably malfunctioning. But first, make sure to check that your compressor is not shorted to ground.
@@Your-Self With the new multimeter, I measured resistance again and it fluctuated between 6-8. Not feeling that comfortable with applying the 120VAC to the compressor, I called in a repair person and he confirmed that the control panel appeared to be the issue. It cost a bit more for the confirmation, but most definitely a lot cheaper than buying a new frig. Ordered the new control panel from LG's parts supplier (Encompass.com) and I'll put that in myself. Thanks for your very helpful input and hopefully the new control panel will do it.
The tripping circuit breaker could be as simple as a weak breaker, and as difficult as insulation on one of the wires breaking down and causing the short. You probably need to call a technician to assess the situation and measure the inrush current at which the breaker trips.
Thanks for the video! I followed the video to test my LG linear compressor (FLB075LANA). The reading is 9.5, O.L and O.L (not measurable). Does it mean the compressor is bad? The compressor is running but not cooling at all. Thanks a lot!
The resistance reading of your compressor is good, but it probably failed mechanically. The internal suction valve is very weak on these compressors, so it's just idling and not compressing. If you have a purchase receipt and your fridge is under 5 years-old, LG will fix it absolutely free. After 5 years you'll have to pay labor fee about $400
@@witherdragon22 Hello, Were you able to have your compressor fixed by LG? Were you seeing error code 22? I have same compressor and not cooling at all. resistance readings are 8.3, OL and OL.
My LG FRIDGE stopped freezing all the items in the freezer the fan seems to work ..also takes forever making Ice as well. Do you think this is an easy fix? Gonna have to throw away a bunch of food soon :( can't seem to find a freezer switch either
There is no easy answer to this question. Maybe need to clean condenser coils from dust, or it could be a beginning of a major Sealed System problem. Try to run a system Test first as on the linked video, and go from there... ua-cam.com/video/70y61Sq_NU0/v-deo.html
The wisemotion compressor is rare and weird. Unlike other compressors, it can stop running because there is a refrigerant leak in the system. It's difficult to figure out what the problem is for a DIYer. It's best to call Whirlpool authorized tech to troubleshoot it.
Great video, pretty sure I have an old school, resistance I'm getting is 52.9 - 52.3 - 105 so works out, but considerably higher, is this still okay, I change the relay (but it looks like I was sent a faulty one)
If your multimeter works well, the resistance is kinda high, but not unheard of. It just means that this compressor uses about twice as much electricity to run. What exactly is the problem... the compressor doesn't start at all?
@@Your-Self the compressor is working but the refrigerator is not very cold. It reaches maximum - 5°C. In your video you say the measurements on linear compressor is different than those i found. The measurements i found are similar to old school compressor so i think this is the problem. I need to find solutions to inform the technician because at he's last visit 3 months ago he said it's leaking fluid but i don't trust him because the refrigerator is at the same condition. If it's leaking it should be empty until now correct?
I just tried this and have a BLDC compressor part MKV190CL2J/SM1 in my Samsung. I measured 11.8 for all 3 of the measurements. Is my compressor bad? I replaced my relay starter thing and my 2 temp sensors in my fridge and still it's not working.
When you say "I replaced my relay starter thing" do you mean the inverter (computer board inside gray box)?... because BLDC compressors don't have a starter relay. What exactly is not working... the compressor is not running at all, or running, but not cooling? What's the refrigerator model number?
@@Your-Self It's a Samsung RF267AERS. And I mean I replaced the overload here - www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Overload/DA34-00004D/2025770 . The inverter PCB is in the rear of the fridge but I think that is the problem. The compressor is not running at all. My inverter board is also blinking 1 LED every 2 seconds or so. I tried using a multimeter to read the power line going to the compressor and I get no voltages between the VDD and VSS.
Your refrigerator model has 2 PCBs next to each other, and the smaller one with a blinking light is the inverter. Look closer on the inverter, and you may see a bulging capacitor, or some burnt marks on the front or the back of the PCB. It's a common failure, so try replacing it.
@@Your-Self Thanks for the reply. So I did replace my inverter PCB. The light on the other one would blink once real fast every 2 or so seconds. With the new one, it is blinking a little slower but blinks 4 times then stops. Then it repeats. I thought I could hear like a ruffle sound coming from the compressor but it still is not turning on. Any ideas?
Well, the 4 blinks indicate a locked compressor... not good news. It's possible the compressor was locked before, but the old inverter was trying to start it multiple times anyway and eventually burnt out. If you have a clamp-multimeter, you can measure the current flow to your refrigerator... unplug and plug it back in... if you see the current spike to about 6-10 amps for a few seconds, the inverter is doing its job supplying power to the compressor, and if the compressor is humming, but not running, it's probably locked :( Since you have nothing to lose, try lightly tapping on the compressor from all sides with a hammer... it may unlock the compressor, albeit for a short while.
This is one of the best videos on how to check your compressors that I have found on UA-cam. Thank you for such a great demonstration!
Glad it was helpful!
FIXED!! Refrigerator clicking on/off nonstop,and finally quit all together. This testing assured me my compressor was good. Start relay was rattling, replaced. Refrigerator still did not come back on, just heard clicking on/off at the circuit board on back, but that didn’t start happening right away.Finally I unplugged, worried it would burn up the board. Next morning, I plugged it back in, still nonstop clicking ever second at the board. By now, I don’t care if it burns up the board! (09 kitchenAid). As the morning went on , I could hear the compressor want to start, but, in a nano second the circuit board would click again, and shut it down from starting. This slowly build up where the compressor came on for a few seconds more and board would click it off again. Finally after hours of that building up of the compressor time, and less circuit board time, it just started running full speed, and very quietly. It’s be running 2 hrs now, I’m going to leave the refrigerator closed for 24 hrs and see if it’s going to continue running before pushing back into space. (note: before my fix, I had 2 different service people come out, one said my refrigerator relays was on the the board and my refrigerator didn’t have a relay to replace, so, board was replaced, did not fix; the other said he didn’t know the cause, cause at the time the clicking was intermittent and he’d have to hear it, even though I had audio.) By the way , I’m a 67 single women that relies heavily on Utube videos, thank you for taking the time to share your knowledge. Hope what I share, can help someone.
Glad it was helpful!
Nice one i know the result of equal resistance~thanks dude!♥😮🎉
Hi. Your videos and your narrative is by far the clearest as far as diagnosing these LG fridge issues. Thank you for them.
So my compressor is "running". It sounds healthy. Not hollow and not clicking like a thermal issue.
Condenser fan is running and both fridge and freezer fans function in run mode and during test mode.
My pcb doesn't have an LED. So no flashes.
I get a code "22" in the 2nd phase of diagnostic which can mean start relay or PCB, but compressor is running.
I'm willing to spend the $300+ to change board and relay, but not another grand to replace compressor.
What's your beat guess?
I'd be happy to compensate you for your time.
Thank you so much.
Dave Beaumont
Code 22 is just a notification that you are on the 2nd phase (33 the 3rd phase).
You didn't mention the model number or if it's a Linear compressor. If it is Linear, I'm afraid you have to replace it. Or there is a small chance the refrigerant gas has leaked out. If it's not Linear, there is a higher chance of a gas leak. Either way an expensive repair. But if it's under 5 years old, LG may replace the Linear compressor free.
Really nice job on this video. After looking at videos for two days this was the best and most straight forward to test my LG linear compressor. Thank you!
Glad it was helpful, and thanks for watching!
Here is Gill I really appreciate your video explains clearly to check compressor good job. I am requesting your help to know how to check inverter on BLDC type compressor with inverter board
Thank you! It looks like my old school compressor works! Now I need to change the relay and overload and hope it works again. Thx again!
Wow...I just subscribed. This video was so well done for a newbie like me !! Very well explained and shown !! My start relay, overload switch and compressors were the same ones you were checking. I have only used a multimeter once before, but you made it so easy to learn to use it. My meter started higher then would go down some...hopefully that is normal?? My readings were about 5.1 on left and 4.1 on right. The two top pins were 8.8 , but I guess should be 9.2 ?? It is an LG bottom freezer refrigerator and the freezer will only get cold. The fan in the back is running and the compressor is hot. Any more suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks so much !! Joe
Assuming that the freezer is getting cold (around 0°F), would indicate that the compressor is good! Part of that cold air should travel to the fridge section through a hall or a damper door on some models, with the help of a freezer-fan. So it's best to take your freezer apart and see if the fan burned out, or got stuck in the ice due to a bad defrost system, or the damper door is not working. Thanks for watching and commenting!
@@Your-Self Thanks so much for getting back to me so soon. I will check those things tomorrow.
At last ! An easy to follow video…. Thanks very much
Thanks for watching!
Excellent explanation! I ordered a relay and think it will fix the problem.
Good luck!
@@Your-Self
Parts arrived and all I had to do was change the overload protector. Thanks again!
Good to hear it!
Great explanation!
Thanks for sharing 👍
Glad it was helpful!
@@Your-Self my results were a bit different though. 17.8, 15.8, 32.8 on an Embraco ECR60HLP. Not sure if it is ok?
Some compressors have double-digit readings. It's normal.
Thanks for the response@@Your-Self
Thanks so much for this! It saved me from forcing a tech to come to my home during a pandemic.
Glad it helped, and thanks for watching!
Exactly what I needed. Thank you!
Glad it helped!
Thank you for such clear post. I have the LG linear compressor.so many of posts refer to compressor relay inside the left cover. mine has the overcurrent device only, yet I can hear a relay but the compressor doesn't start. does the relay exist elsewhere TY.
LG linear compressors don't have a start relay, only an overload device. The main electronic board controls the compressor. Try to run the Test and see if the compressor starts as on this video... ua-cam.com/video/70y61Sq_NU0/v-deo.html
I was trying to measure the compressor on my fridge which clicks off a few seconds after what sounds like starting up, and I got some weird readings...I got around 23.5 ohms between the "tip" and either of the other two pins, but only around 1.3 Ohms between the two "base" pins. Haven't seen such numbers mentioned anywhere, they seem way too different from what everyone else seems to mention these compressors should measure. It is a HVY44AA compressor in an 18-year old Electrolux fridge. Has a weird relay (replaced, didn't change anything) that could perhaps fit the description of "a grey box", so maybe it is the BLDC inverter compressor and should have 23(ish) ohms between all three pins? Any idea or help would be much appreciated.
Yes, it's a strange reading.
Did you try to remeasure it a few times?
Also, maybe it's a 1.3 kOhms or mOhms?
@@Your-Self Yep, I checked it several times because of how unexpected the values were. But sure enough, that's what they were. And yes, it was certainly in Ohms, double checked that as well.
Thanks so much for this video, it was very helpful.
I have a Kenmore Elite running a LGFLB075LANA Compressor. I'm getting no cool air from the freezer or fresh food compartments. The readings are 10 Ohms / 0 / 0, which I believe is expected. The compressor feels like it is running, it gets warm and there is a slight vibration. When I do the diagnostic test I can feel air coming from both compartments. I've replaced the start relay and get the same results. I also have a 3 n 1 start that I haven't used, but I suspect that won't solve anything.
Given all that is the compressor most likely just shot? Unfortunately this fridge is about 5 years and 1 month old. Thanks again for the great video!
Since the compressor is actually running, the 3 in 1 is not needed.
The warm air blowing in both compartments indicates some-kinda Sealed System issues. Could be a leak, restriction, or mechanically damaged compressor inside... which is most common for this compressor. In any case, an expensive repair :(
@@Your-Self thank you so much for the fast response. In your experience do you have any guesstimates on how expensive is expensive? (Ballpark). I think I’ve read the compressor itself is covered for 10 years, but not the labor? My experience with Sears on this has been extremely poor so far, and to even have a tech come look at it would cost $170. I don’t want to just throw money away for them to tell me the repair is an obnoxious cost. Thanks again, your videos have far and away been the best I’ve found on this topic.
While LG covers the compressor and labor for the first 5 years and parts only for 10, Sears has its own rules. The lowest you can expect to pay is about $350 for labor if Sears provides the compressor. Not sure if they will cover other items like Filter/Drier, Condenser, Evaporator if there is a leak. So the price can go up to $1000 very quickly.
I checked with Sears and their parts warranty is 10 year for the compressor and 5 year for the sealed system. The fridge is 5 years and 1 month old. Ugh. You seemed to think the symptoms I provided were a sealed system issue. Would the cost of repairing the sealed system + labor approach $1000 if the compressor was still good? Unfortunately it will cost $169 for Sears to even just assess and quote a price.
Again, I really appreciate you taking the time to answer.
Unfortunately, there is no way to figure out if it's a bad compressor, a leak, or a restriction without a technician piercing the sealed system to install gauges.
If the compressor is bad, it's actually the "best" and the most likely case scenario, and it's covered.
If there is a leak on the LOW side, it's the worst-case scenario that may require the Evaporator, Filter, and possibly the Compressor replacement, which may not be covered in this case. And that's how you approach the $1000 bill.
Tough decision.
Good afternoon, the video has been of great help but at the time of making the measurements I have 6.2 8.2 and 12.4, the last value should give 14.4 and gives something lower, could it be that the engine is damaged?, (tecumseh 335-ts-259 engine) I also did continuity tests and everything is fine. The fridge was working and began to hear a "click" until one day the fridge did not freeze more, today only turns on the bulb inside the fridge and sounds the "click" every so often, but my doubt is with the resistance values or I don´t know if the PTC may be the source of the problem.
Your resistance measurement of 12.4 is close enough to be good.
The easiest what you can do is replace the PTC start relay and see if it works.
anybody can answer this my system uses overload and ptc system. I am not sure if I use the correct ptc but I hear and see the overload activited and working. is that mean the ptc is correct and motor stuck .. what happens if ptc fits but wrong ..
I have a 1yr old 33 bottle wine fridge that quit cooling. all fans, lights and panel are working. I've checked and the pins are opposite from your diagram like a triangle. Top pin to the left pin 2.5. Top pin to right pin 0. Left pin to right pin 2.5. I've also checked the relay and show 0 resistance. Could the compressor and relay be both bad?
Outstanding Tutorial!
Glad it was helpful!
Great job on this video. Helped me a lot. Thanks.
Glad it helped!
What a great, informative video! Here is my quandary: I have a kegerator with an old school compressor. Found the unit warm one morning. After diagnosing I replaced the relay and start capacitor. The unit ran for a day or so and then did the same thing. I can hear the overload clicking. There is a visible arcing at the connection to the overload when this happens. Again, new components. I manually ran the compressor by taking a power cord and connecting power to the C and M and then jumping the S to get it going. This works fine. Measured resistance on the terminals and got 6.2, 14.7 and 20.9. Not sure what to check next? Does the compressor have a “dead spot” that causes it to have difficulty starting after it stops a few times? Is it just overheating and eventually failing ? Trying to decide if I trash this thing. It is a pretty pricey unit. Hope someone can help. Thanks!
Thanks for the video! On the LG Linear compressor, at the 4:50 mark when you say there is nothing between the other 2 sides and you should not get a reading, your video shows 0 ohms. Should it read 0 ohms or is it actually an open circuit? Thanks!
Good catch. There should be an open circuit between the other two sides.
@@Your-Self Thanks for confirming!
I have a Lg lmxs27626s recently stopped producing cold air, I feel the fan blowing in the freezer, and can feel it up top as well, the compressor sounds good, and the fan near the coils runs as well, I’ve done the test 1 and 2 from pcb, I also checked the fuse with a meter i do get 22 22 on the display but from one of your comments that doesn’t mean anything. I did notice some moisture near the bottom of fridge while access the compressor/coil not sure if that was leaked fluid or possible freezer items melting and leaked out. Any advice would be greatly appreciated as technicians are so expenses be to come out to diagnose
This model has LG linear compressor, which is the most common problem in the system. LG will typically replace the compressor for free if it's under 5 years old.
However, this model also has 2 cooling evaporators. And the one in the fridge compartment, most of the time, has a refrigerant leak. Which may not be covered by LG.
You have about a 50:50 chance of one of these issues. Unfortunately, it's impossible to figure out which one it is without a tech.
I have a Kenmore 795 with LG Linear Compressor I install a pierce valve I am seeing 60psi is that s sign of a bad compressor? I can hear the compressor running but it is not getting cold.
Probably yes.
If you have 60 PSI when the fridge is unplugged and the same 60 PSI when the compressor runs, the compressor is probably (inefficient) bad.
I just seen your video, you seem very knowledgeable and helpful, thank you.
I am working on a
Kenmore Cold Spot
Embraco em2z 80 HLT compressor
The readings are
8.4
5.7
11.4
When I plug it in the compressor turns on but shuts off in a few seconds. I unplug and plug back in it does the same thing.
The resistance numbers are little off but could be due to inaccurate multimeter.
If the compressor starts for a few seconds and stops, this could be due to a bad starting device. It may look similar to my starting device in the video, but it's a different type. You may have a TSD (Time Starting Device), which typically fails the way you describe. Try replacing it, and if that doesn't help, the compressor may be bad. Good luck!
Did you finally find your answer? I have similar problem. Thanks
Any idea if current LG models have updated compressors that are more reliable than the linear problematic compressors?
New updated LG compressors have been around for a few years only. Unfortunately, that's not enough time to determine if they are any better than the previous version.
Hi my problem is we had a brief power out age. When power resumed ,I smelled a burnt plastic smell. The fan worked but the compressor relay was fried. I have a 3 way so I hooked it up and I heard a brief start noise then nothing. I did the 3prong test on compressor and it checked good. Now I rehooked the power wires to the 3way but there’s no juice there at all when I turn fridge on. I checked the wall plugin and get 120 volts. Any ideas?
I checked out your video because I am trying to diagnose a display case chiller that we have that won't cool. It appears that the compressor is running but it is very quiet.
Capacitor checks out OK, and the relay and cut-out both appear fine.
Checking the pins on the compressor I'm getting what appear to be high but logical readings of 15 , 30 and 45 ohms.
I'm basically trying to check as much as I can before calling someone to come and re-gas the system and check for leaks.
Are the readings too high?
The readings are on a higher side, but just fine.
If there are fans in your chiller, make sure they are running. Otherwise, it's time to call a technician to investigate.
@@Your-Self I have just one fan inside the chiller, next to the thermostat control, and that's working fine.
It's a Fujidenzo chiller and every video online appears to be about finding leaks and re-gassing. So don't see any reason why mine should be any different.
Thanks for your answer.
Great video! I have linear on LSFXC2476S, shows 9.5 between the bottom and back pins, nothing on other two, also not shorted out. Refrigerator and freezer get cold, but eventually warm up. Board shows 6 flashes. Any ideas? Thanks!
The 6 flashes could mean a lot of things, but mostly a bad compressor. Even if it checks out good with a multimeter.
If the compressor was just replaced, the problem could be with a restriction created during the installation.
If it wasn't replaced yet, it's best to call LG directly. They may replace it for free (under a 5-year warranty) or give you a free compressor. You'll pay for the installation though.
@@Your-Self what leads would I check to see if it is the board that's bad?
If the compressor is running, the board is good.
Usually, when the compressor is running but not cooling, means a bad compressor internally. Sometimes, however, there could be a refrigerant leak. In this case, a tech will need to attach gauges to check the internal pressures.
@Your-Self thank you so much! I guess I will part it out. Not worth putting a compressor in it. I bought it for $100, I'm sure I can get out of parts
hi @yourself , first thanks for your great videos and thanks for your time, it's truly appreciated...i have a LG LFXS28566M around 4 years old, recently stopped cooling, everything seems to be working visually and audibly, lights come on..fans come on..compressor runs, i changed the relay with new one just to make sure...didn't do much...i pierced the vaccum side of the copper pipe with a "bullet piercing" thinking it might be low on freon, i followed all instructions on doing it and nothing , the pressure when i open the valve on all vids i watched reads negative or at least runs towards low as a vaccum, on mine it only goes as high as i release freon and stays there, i tried so many times to release and refill freon in hopes of it working but no luck so far, on the test from motherboard it gives me error "22"...and nothing else...no led flashes and no blown fuses....tested the compressor as you showed in this video everything checks except for the ground to pin which reads between 10-11...not 7.5 or 8...i am really lost at this point...any suggestion you might have would help...i really apologize for the lengthy comment, and thank you in advance for any suggestion you may have.
Unfortunately, these Linear compressors are very finicky. You must charge them with the exact amount of refrigerant gas as per the label.
Also, it's very possible the compressor got weak and can't pump. So you may need a new one.
Since you already have a bullet valve installed, check the Static pressure first (refrigerator unplugged). The static pressure should be around 50-60 PSI in a fully charged system.
Then start the compressor, and the pressure should drop to around 0 PSI. If the pressure drops only by a little, let's say, down to 20-40 PSI, the compressor is bad. But if the pressure goes into a vacuum, there may be a restriction in the filter/drier or the capillary (thinnest) tube.
@@Your-Self thanks a lot, i tried the static pressure and it still says around 65-70 even after i turn on the compressor...as if it's not vacuuming at all...
Yep, sounds like an inefficient compressor.
You need a new compressor and probably a software update to the main PCB board with a special LG jig.
@@Your-Self thanks brother, sounds like a new fridge to me and never LG because so far i seen only horror stories from them, they really don't respect customers at all
In the split phase type, are the absolute resistance values important or only the sum? I have read other places that the delta between Run and Start should be about .5 Ohms. If much more than that then there is likely a turn short. My compressor values are 4.6 6.7 and 11.3. So they add up but have a large difference.
As long as the Run and the Start values are different and add up together, the windings should be fine.
If the condenser fan (next to the compressor) is running, but the compressor is not, the Start Relay could be bad. The compressor could also be mechanically locked inside... there is no test for that.
Can't thank you enough- subscribed.
Glad to help
Hi what is the least amount of ohms that the linear compressor give to be consider a bad compressor?
Depending on your model number, a good resistance on a linear compressor should be 5-15 ohms.
Have a LG LFX33975ST. Has a linear compressor and ohms around 12. Has an error code 22. The compressor is running. Fans are working and no icing up. Wondering if it could be low on freon?
Yes, it could be low on refrigerant gas. But most likely, the compressor is going bad. LG typically replaces those linear compressors for free in the first 5 years. After that, you pay labor costs.
I'm not familiar with error code 22. But when you run a test cycle from the main control board, code 22 22 will indicate the second stage of the test.
@@Your-Self what if your not the original owner?
If you don't have the purchasing receipt, you are kinda on your own. Either pay for an expensive repair or buy a new one... sorry.
@@Your-Self added refridgerant and solved the problem.
Great video . I have a Westinghouse WSE7000SE , and the control module seems to have failed , fridge light was flickering , then turn off whilst the door was open , it was still staying cold , but then the fridge went dead , and the freezer light was the only thing working . I thought i would check the compressor before buying a new control buzz box , and the readings i am getting is 26.2+11.8 =38 , which makes sense , but they are all pretty high readings . Even though the value equation adds up , why would they be so high ?
The manufacturer of your compressor decided to go with the higher resistance wires. But the readings look normal.
The flickering light points to a problem with the control board or the light itself. Also, a shorted (wet) DC fan motor, can overload the control board, so it can't supply power to the rest of the refrigerator... it gets pretty complicated with newer refrigerators.
I guess replacing the control board would be a good first step without technician involvement.
@@Your-Self The fridge is totally dead , only freezer light is working . The starter relay and overload are high readings also , but its a 240v fridge . I replaced the diode on the control board and will do the 35v capacitors , as they look swollen on the tops . THANKS for your reply .
Hi Mate . I ended up replacing the zener diode and all four 35v capacitors and the fridge is perfect . It was your information that enabled me to do fix it , i am extremely grateful , thank you !!
Good to hear it!
Great video. Thank you. I assume that if I get no reading at all with a linear compressor, it's dead?
I don’t think mine is a a BLCD, no box behind it. But I have 7.5 ohms on all terminals. Do you think it’s toast? Thanks
If all terminals are equal at 7.5, that's probably a BLDC compressor.
The inverter could be hidden somewhere with or without the box.
@@Your-Self Thanks, but I don't see a box behind the compressor probably 20 years old. how would I find out what kind of compressor it is? it says LG MC57LAUM
I looked up the image of the label of this compressor, and it looks like a regular compressor. It's strange that all terminals are exactly the same so it's probably toast. On the bright side, it worked for 20 years... unlike newer refrigerators.
@@Your-Self thanks
Thank you for the video. I have a LG LFXS29626S French Door with a Linear Compressor LGB075LBNA (~ 4 years old). Fridge runs but does not cool (Freezer nor Refrigerator). Compressor does not get warm, lines do not get hot or cold. Condenser and evaporator fans run (jumpered door out), blows warm air inside fridge. No fault codes or alarms. Made sure not in DEMO Mode. Replaced main PCB board and Run Capacitor. No change. Checked continuity on thermal overload, its good (not open). Installed pierce valve on low side, has refrigerant, not low. Checked the resistance between top and bottom left prong on compressor, measured 8.6 ohms. $240 in parts trying to troubleshoot and repair. In your opinion, is the compressor shot? Anything else you recommend? Thanks in advance for any advice.
I'm afraid you are correct about the compressor being shot. LG Linear compressors have a weak internal valve. So it's typical for the compressor to just idle and not compress the gas. Compressors under 5 years old are covered by LG full warranty, but after installing the piercing valve on the low side, I'm not sure if they will replace it for free. Good luck!
Could you please explain what does it mean compressor shot ?
And also what does it mean compressor shorted ? Thanks
I have the same issue.
Love the video my compressor is shorted to the ground 😭
Sorry to hear that
@@Your-Self thanks for replying and for posting such a good tutorial
Very informative and helpful ,thanks much.
Glad it was helpful!
great video.... huge help.
Thanks for watching!
I have an old school compressor and it reads perfect at 9.3, 5.4 and 14.7. I have a new relay, and it vibrates but it doesn't cool the fridge, oy part I haven't replaced is the overload switch but I tested it and it test fine. I'm not sure what to do next from here.. Any suggestions?
If the compressor works (vibrates), the overload is good.
Do the fans, by the compressor and inside the freezer, work?
If they do, you may have a defrost problem (Evaporator is full of icy-frost), or a refrigerant leak (an expensive repair).
Great job on the video :) if the linear compressor had a ohm reading on 9 and seems to be running (as there is no clicking and no cooling) would that be a no coolant issue even though its throwing a 22 code on a LG fridge, Thanks for your help
Are you sure it's throwing the 22 code? If you are running the Test from the small button on the PCB, it's just showing the second stage of the Test Mode. And the third Test will be 33.
Typically, LG linear compressors run (vibrate) but don't cool when bad. If it's under 5 years old, LG may replace it absolutely free.
The lower possibility is that the gas has leaked out from the system.
I have exact same issue. Second Diagnostic test via PCB throws 22 error code. No error code on third test. Compressor vibrates all the time but no cooling. Temperature sensor and all fans checks out fine. One pair of Compressor pin shows 10 ohm resistance. Relay doesn’t rattle and compressor starts vibrating immediately without clicking. Out of ideas. Do you think I have bad compressor? It’s about 7 years old. Any idea on labor cost to replace as it has parts warranty on compressor. Appreciate your help.
My Kenmore 795.72493.611 is not cooling fridge nor freezer. In test mode
fans blow air in freezer not fridge. Also code 22 22 shows on display window. Is the compressor shot?
Hi
Thank you for the video. My Kenmore frig is giving up last week. Fan running, clean condenser, etc. I replaced the relay (prior to watched your video). The compressor does not kicked at all, and if keep on plugged, it got fairly warm. Zero cool air produced. Bottom door frig, model 795.71302.011, compressor sticker showed LG MQ53LAUM. Testing followed your video:
1) No jumping # if touch both on copper tube
2) No jumping # if touching copper tube and the base that attached the pin
3) between pins are 7.8, 5.4 & 11
Is this old school compressor? The hardware look just like your in the vid. The compressor has no mention of “linear”
Is the compressor death ?
Thanks again for the great info and reply
The resistance between 3 pins seems normal. But I'm not sure if the compressor is shorted to ground or not because your test was inconclusive.
You should get some numbers jumping when you scratch the copper pipe with both leads. But you should NOT get any jumps from that copper pipe to any of the 3 pins.
If you already replaced the Start Relay, try replacing the white Overload as well.
You can test your old start relay in between small holes, probably marked 5 and 6. If you get somewhere 5 to 25 ohms (at room temperature), your old Start relay is good.
I have a recently replaced LG (FC75LBNA) Compressor in my Kenmore Elite French Door Refrigerator. It wasn't turning on but I have been able to position the relay/overload plug to get the compressor to come on but it still isn't cooling enough.
My question is this...on the side with the resistance, are those two prong the equivalent to Common, Start and/or Run? If yes, which two do they represent?
On Linear compressors, there is no Start prong. LG calls working prongs Power and Common.
It typically takes about 24 hours to reach full cooling potential after compressor replacement.
If it's a dual evaporator model, did you open the 3-way valve to completely evacuate the system, and weigh in the right amount of refrigerant?
Did you replace the Filter/Drier (it's important after Linear Compressor failure due to debris in the Sealed System)?
@@Your-Self I got this refrigerator after it had been replaced so I am not sure if that was done or not. After 24 hours of running, the refrigerator is down close to temp but the freezer is the same temp. Any ideas as to why this would occur and what I could do to fix?
Newer refrigerators are Hi-Tech machines, and if somebody has already worked on sensitive Sealed System components incorrectly, I'm sorry to say, but there is probably nothing you can do to improve it. Only an experienced LG tech may be able to redo what was already done. (incompatible compressor to the motherboard, permanent or floating restriction, refrigerant leakage, an incorrect amount of refrigerant filled, stuck 3-way valve if dual evaporator - just to name few possible problems)
I have lmx25964st it’s out of warranty, my question is how much power is going to compressor supposed to be I put my meter the 2 wires going to compressor (red, black) it’s only 80v but the compressor listed 175v and the compressor sounds running but not compressing the pressure are both the same high side and low side, cap is ok 10 mfd , is my compressor is bad? And one thing the blinking lights is 5 blinks and my little screen showing 22 . Your help is highly appreciated.
Yes, sounds like the reed valve inside the compressor is cracked. That's why it's not compressing, just idling. LG covers the full repair for the first 5 years, but only supplies a free compressor for 10 years and you pay for the installation.
@@Your-Self but is that right 80v going to compressor and the compressor listed 175v thanks again
The 80v is the minimum operational voltage that should create a difference in pressure between the High and the Low sides and cool the refrigerator at a low speed.
I didn't see the 5 blinks the first time in your message, but that indicates a locked valve. Either way, the compressor is bad, sorry.
22 indicates that you are in the second stage of the Test Mode, and 33 is the third stage (defrost).
@@Your-Self thank you much your quick answer very helpful to me. God bless you &happy new year!
Hi good day to you sir, I have questions again hopefully u can help me. We replaced the compressor with lg replacement compressor vacuum and after we have 600 microns we charge 134a 5.11oz accordingly we turn on since last night and nothing is working compressor vibrate but it only showed 0.22 ams instead of 5.2 ams and pressure won’t change I guess compressor not running right? What we should do next? Your answer is highly appreciated. By the way pressure on low right now is 1.0 high side 66.5
U made it Simple thx a lot
Thanks for watching!
Thanks for the video, I managed to to test my BLDC Frigidaire compressor properly. The compressor is not grounded and the readings between each pair of pins is 17.2, no more no less. This looks very high compared to your average reading for the compressor..so is my compressor shot? the model is fghb2844lf7. If the resistance is fince then I am guessing its the inverter relay board. But trying to make sure before I order one.
The resistance on your compressor sounds a little high, but not unheard-of. BLDC compressors are reliable in general, but inverters are not. The inverter board supposed to get 2 voltages in...120vAC to energize it, and a small variable 3-5vDC from the motherboard. If you can confirm those 2 voltages, but the compressor doesn't run, most likely a relay or something else on the inverter board got damaged. If you take the inverter board out, sometimes you can actually see the burnt marks on the front or the backside.
Have an sumsung inverter compressor and it has all electrical readings fine also control boards seems to be working fine but it seems to be a mechanical compressor internal issue!!! How often is this?
BLDC compressors are very reliable, but of course, anything can happen.
If your compressor is not shorted and has all 3 windings the same value, it's probably good. The inverter fails more often. If it gets 120 VAC on two larger wires, and a small DC voltage around ~2.5 V on two smaller wires, but the compressor is not running, the inverter is probably bad.
Such a big help for us DIY folks! I have an LG linear, what does it mean if it reads at 9.2? Thanks in advance.
9.2 sounds normal, and if the compressor is not Shorted to Ground, it should be OK electrically. But it could still be damaged mechanically inside, depending on what your problem is.
@@Your-Self It is cooling just slightly, not completely. I also followed your other video using the 'test and reset button' to confirm the evaporator fan/air flow works. The sound check, using your other video 'not cooling but running' points me to bad compressor. Now patiently following your tip to 'get your money back for not cooling LG fridge'. You are educating folks globally, heartfelt thanks from a DIYer from the beautiful island of Guam!
Since it's slightly cooling, the evaporator coils could be covered in frost/ice due to a Defrost Problem. I'd unplug the fridge for the full 24 hours, so the ice can melt. And then check if the cooling improved.
But most likely, the problem is with the compressor itself.
I'm sure Guam is a beautiful island, but not sure about LG warranty coverage on the island.
Let us know if they can fix or replace it.
@@Your-Self I had performed the defrost process as well. Fortunately, LG extends warranty coverage here as it was purchased at the local Home Depot. Compressor is being shipped by LG USA as we speak.
@@omlorz1680 linear compressor is not durable according to various reviews on the internet. Is that the case with you.
Hello
I have LG with freezer at the bottom. Top fresh food section stopped cooling , air is blowing ( when I open the door and hold the switch I feel the air blowing but it is barely cold).
The freezer is a bit colder but nowhere close to freezing temps.
Compressor sound like working and it is intensively warm , however both tubes : in and out tubes- are at the same room temperature and the coil is not even warm. The coil is somewhat dusty but nothing major and the fan is blowing air through the coil.
Does it mean compressor is Done?!
Appreciate any help, thanks
The problem could be with the refrigerant leak. But if it's an LG Linear compressor, most likely it's damaged inside. If your refrigerator is under 5 years old, it's worth calling LG directly, and they may fix it for free.
This is great information. Our 10-year old LG 3-door stopped cooling overnight. The fan runs, but it doesn't look like the compressor is running. There is no start relay/overload plugged into the compressor, just a connector that goes to the grey (actually it's off-white) box mounted to the side of the fridge. Our compressor passed the short test - all three leads measured open when I put one lead on a compressor pin and the other on the copper pipe. However, when I measured lead to lead, I only had one measurement with a reading... but it wasn't on the "right side" winding, it was on the left and it measured 6.9 ohms. The top winding and the right winding both measured open.
So, the question is, is the compressor bad?
I ask because in your descriptions, my set up looks like a BLDC inverter because there is a grey (off-white) box to the left of the compressor. However, ours does measure similar to the LG Linear example, albeit on the opposite winding. I'm wondering because our unit is an LG, so perhaps the compressor readings are good and I need to test the start capacitor on the grey (off-white) box and/or maybe open the box and look for the start relay?
If you're still monitoring this thread, I'd love some feedback before the service tech arrives tomorrow! Thanks :-)
You have one of the earliest LG linear compressor setups with a separate Main PCB and a Drive PCB (inverter box). According to your measurement, the compressor seems OK. You could run a Test Mode by pressing the button on the Main PCB, and see if the compressor and fans run like on this video: ua-cam.com/video/70y61Sq_NU0/v-deo.html
Also, you may see a light on the inverter box flashing error codes
@@Your-Self well that's some (hopefully) good news! Compressors aren't cheap :-) We've had good service for 10 years out of this unit and I'd like to keep her going if I can.
I ran the push button tests on the main PCB earlier and other than the fan motor coming on, the compressor seeming to not come on, and the front display showing 22, 33, 44 when I was cycling through the tests, it really didn't tell me much.
I've got the inverter box apart and see the LED. I'll try to make it flash in the morning when I can reconnect the compressor power leads and plug the unit in.
Does that same video link (above?) that shows the list of flashes that equal certain error codes explain how to kick off the tests?
Thank you very much for your quick response!!
Yes, the same linked video with error codes.
If the compressor is not running during the Test, the inverter box is probably bad, or the Main board.
So, with drive PCB visible and everything plugged in, I ran the tests using the button on the main PCB. The LED on the drive PCB did not illuminate or flash at any time during the test sequence.
Generally, on first press, the fan speed increased and I saw 88 on the front panel. On the second press, the fan speed stayed high and the front panel showed 22. On the third press, the fan stopped and 33 was on the front display. Fourth press showed 44 on front display and heard some relay "clicks" on the main PCB. I ended up unplugging the mains and plugging it back in to reset and the fan came on normal speed.
At no time is the compressor coming on. I've been unable to find the exact service manual online for our model and am suspicious about trying to troubleshoot further using a different (but close) model's voltage and test point guide.
Any thoughts?
If you provide your refrigerator model number, I may be able to find the correct Tech Sheet to narrow down the problem to Main or Drive PCB.
@YourSelf . I have an LG Refrigerator Model No: LFXC247226/02. It has stopped cooling. I was told by a technician PCB and compressor needed to change. I bought new PCB Model: EBR78940615 and LG Compressor - FLB075LANA. Hooked by both parts, added refrigerant and what not. The fridge powered on but still will not cool. It remains hot. What do you think maybe the problem here?
Your refrigerator model seems not to be valid.
If you install the new "Universal" compressor FLS075LANA, you'll need to update the original PCB or buy a new PCB and update the software with a special LG jig as well.
Since you installed the old version compressor FLB075LANA, you should be able to use the old PCB.
The LG Linear compressors are very slow on cooling, so it may take a whole day to feel the difference. Also, they are very sensitive to the amount of refrigerant you put in. The amount has to be exactly as on the sticker.
I have an LG linear compressor. I checked compressor ohms, freon pressure and both are good. Compressor appears to run, but inlet and outlet pressures are stagnant. When I put it in test mode the voltage on the main PCB only gets to 100 volts and shuts down. The tech sheet recommends replacing the PCB, but at $200, I'm a little hesitant. Is there an easy way to test run the compressor before I take a dive on the PCB?
LG linear compressors can run directly from the 120VAC wall outlet. You can apply the voltage on those 2 pins that you tested for ohms. The compressor will run but sound a little louder than usual.
@@Your-Self Thanks, you saved me from spending $200 on a PCB. It turned out to be the 1 year old compressor. I will never purchase an LG appliance again.
LG recognized the problem with its Linear compressor and extended the free-replacement program for up to 5 years. Now they install an updated version of that compressor, which supposed to last longer... we'll see.
@@Your-Self Its actually a Kenmore refrigerator with LG parts. Sears replaced the LG compressor 1.5 years ago, but only gave me a 90 day warranty on it. I still have the receipt for the work. I'm going to see if LG will honor the warranty on the compressor. Not really sure if I got the new and improved compressor, but 1.5 years is unacceptable. Thanks again.
Yep, 1.5 years on the replacement compressor is pathetic. Hope you can get it covered!
I have an lg linear compressor and according to your test it's good. Relay is good. I want o check for feon leaks with soap and water. I already checked behind the access panel in the bottom rear and did find anything. Should I check the coils behinf the back wall also and if so dies the refrigerator have power while checking? I was going to power down ofcourse while accessing and was wondering if I should power it back on to testcwith sosp and water. Thank you in advance as I'm pulling my hair out after checking everything I can think of.
The Sealed System is always under pressure, so the refrigerator can be unplugged to check for Freon leak.
If the compressor is running, but not cooling, most likely it's worn-out mechanically inside.
How old is your fridge? It could be under LG 5, or 10-year warranty.
@@Your-Self I'm trying to start a little hobby/startup business of buying used faulty refrigerators and trying to fix them and sell for a profit. I bought it for $73 and rolled the dice it wasn't going to be the compressor. I felt like a took a class in refrigerator repair with everything I learned. I like tinkering with things but this has me beyond frustrated. So long story short its 7 years old I believe but I can't use the warranty. Thank you for the response, maybe take the rear wall of the inside and check those coils for a leak. One more question please. I've heard you can transport them on it's side for short periods of time if you allow the same period of time after you unload and stand it up before you plug it in. Any truth in that?
To figure out whether it's a leak or an inefficient compressor, you need to check the pressure inside the Sealed System... low pressure indicates a leak.
If transporting the refrigerator laying down, the oil from the compressor will flow into the pipes where it's not supposed to be. Giving "enough" time the oil should drain back into the compressor.
Great videos. LG LFC25760SB. Fridge will only cool to 45 degrees and freezer stays at around 30. Fans running in fridge and freezer. Compressor running. Compressor is hot to the touch. Multimeter is registering 4.4, 7.2 and 11.5 (top) on compressor. Ran through tests on PCB. All seems fine. Any advice?
You have a basic compressor, which is more reliable than LG linear!
First, try to clean the condenser coil from dust and hair with a brush and vacuum. Also, move your fridge a couple of inches away from the wall for better air circulation and cooling of the compressor.
If that doesn't help, the defrost system may be malfunctioning. Remove everything from the freezer, and unscrew the back-wall to look at the evaporator coil. If it's full of a thick layer of ice and snow, the problem is with the defrost.
If there is just a little frost on the top or the bottom of the coil, the refrigerant gas is probably leaking out from the sealed system... that's the worst case of scenario :(
If you have IR temperature gun, check the temperature of the condenser coil as on this video: ua-cam.com/video/ipwOerjFITg/v-deo.html
YourSelf thanks for the additional tips. I cleaned the condenser coil and the rest of the mechanical cabinet of dust, etc. and went through a full defrost of the fridge. I plugged it back in and the fridge cooled to 40, but the freezer didn’t get to a temp where ice packs would freeze.
I then used the infrared thermometer gun to check the condenser coil temp. It showed around 19 degrees warmer than the air. Because this is a basic compressor, it should be closer to 30 degrees warmer, correct?
Are we at replacement of the fridge?
I'd call a tech, and ask for a quote on suspected "low side leak." See how much, hypothetically, will cost you to replace an evaporator (with the leak), and refill the refrigerant. Maybe, it's worth it. Just keep in mind, that the technician may find some other problem, because it's easier to diagnose in person. Good luck!
YourSelf thank you!
Great video. I have LG lfx25974sw from last 7 years. It stopped cooling. I checked both capacitors from panel, both good, fan and compressor working and from my left bottom to top was 7.5. However, coils are room temperatures and one of the compressor line does get slightly hot if let it running for an hour. My technician suggested that the compressor is bad. Any suggestions. I am very non-technical but gained a lot of knowledge from UA-cam from people like you who actually share their knowledge to benefit other and I have benefitted Thanks. BN
It seems you've done everything you can on your part. The problem is with the compressor, the refrigerant leak or restriction. Any of these problems should be repaired by a tech and kinda expensive. So I guess it's time to decide if you want to fix it or buy a new one. If you have the receipt, LG may cover the cost of the new compressor, but you'll pay for labor.
@@Your-Self Thank yo for your reply. LG sent me correct compressor but wrong Board and after figuring that out got new board. Earlier tried the Wrong board which only sent power to compressor as other would not connect and it ran for few minutes and then died. Service man connected new compressor and put some Freon but the Compressor would not work and still does not work even after he put some hard start as he said that it by passes the Board but the compressor would not start. He does not pay any attention to my Please to check the capacitor, over load or relay. I have bought two Volta meters but don't know how to check the capacitor, relay and the overload. Other tech I cant get as he promises but no show. Any suggestions. If none that is OK. Thanks and Happy Holidays.
Fantastic, thank you so much!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Thank you very much for your video. I have lg with linear compressor and the freezer is not getting cold enough. The technician in my place is really bad. He already change the main board but still the same. I have it for almost 3 years. The measurements i found are 5.4-15,4-19,5. What do you think?
Please reply!!
Some LGs have regular compressors installed. So your measurements should be OK.
Did you buy your fridge new or used? Maybe somebody worked on it before and made a mess.
The refrigerator could be leaking gas slowly on the LOW side. It may take a month or a year to leak out completely with reduced performance. The only way to prove it is for a tech to attach gauges to check the pressure inside.
Make sure to clean the condenser coils near the compressor.
I'm assuming all fans work well, right?
@@Your-Self the fans are working fine and i clean the condenser. It was new and on the door it says linear compressor with 10 years warranty.
The tech just opened the cover inside the freezer and he said i can see the leak. My wife was at home then and he wanted to take it for a week to check. But he is very bad tech. I will have to pay him and he will do nothing. What do you suggest me to do? He replaced the main board at September and for 1-2 months it was okay but after that my warranty expired.
Hmm, if it says Linear on the door, the compressor should be Linear as well. Does it actually say Linear on the compressor itself? (it could be a small text, hard to see)
Recently, LG extended the free Linear compressor replacement warranty to 5 years. And 10 years parts only.
However, I'm a bit confused by your compressor situation, so not sure what to suggest.
My LG Linear compressor runs and has a 10.5 resistance between the two posts that show a resistance, not 7.5. Is this normal? The others read 0 as you said between them.
If your compressor runs with 10.5 ohms of resistance, it's normal.
And that means that the problem could be with the refrigerant (Freon) leak or the compressor got "weak." Which is typical for the LG linear compressor.
Assuming all the fans are running, it's going to be an expensive repair, sorry.
How do I know if it's the compressor for sure though? This compressor was replaced 5 years ago, but I know they have a bad history. It could be a leak anywhere in the system.
A technician needs to install gauges to check the pressure of Freon.
If the pressure is good, the compressor is bad.
How about dual inveter,what readinds should be there?
Hi thanks for the great videos! New subscriber here. I have an old-school compressor that won’t start. I changed out the start relay but still not working. My readings are across the three pins 5.4 3.2 8.2 my low readings don’t exactly match the total high rating. About .4 difference. is this enough to indicate a problem with the compressor? Thanks!
Your compressor readings seem to be OK. Did you check if the compressor is shorted to ground?
If the fan (next to the compressor) is not running either, the thermostat (temperature sensor) could be bad.
@@Your-Self hello! Yes I checked continuity between Pinz and ground seems to be OK. Both fans are spinning OK. I thought I eliminated the thermostat because I checked for continuity across its connectors at room temp is that right? Thanks for your quick reply!
It's difficult to say because there are many different mechanical and computer-operated systems. So depends on your model number, problems may vary.
Excellent video but I'm still a little unsure on my testing. I have an Old School compressor that seems to not be coming on. I've replaced the capacitor and start relay with no luck. The ohm readings are 5.4, 4.3, and 8.8. Based on your video the full length of windings should add up to about 9.7 but I'm a full ohm lower. None of the pins go to ground (using the copper wiring as ground). Does this indicate it's bad? I'm perplexed on what to try next. Thanks
Your ohm readings are close enough, so electrically, the compressor is probably good.
If the fan next to the compressor is running, the temperature sensor is good as well.
It's possible, that the compressor is mechanically locked inside. Sometimes, a 3 in 1 hard start device can unlock the compressor. But there is no guarantee how long it will work. It could last one day or years.
@@Your-Self I see. I don't have a 3 in 1 hard start device to test with. Is that difficult to do?
It's a mediocre difficulty, and you'll have to cut and splice the wires.
Just search UA-cam for "3 in 1 installation" to get an idea.
@@Your-Self thanks. I'm familiar enough with electrical work to try. For whatever it's worth I get zero sounds from the compressor when plugging in the fridge and waiting. Both capacitors and start relays I've used pass multimeter tests. If a hard start was needed would I hear any sound before hand? If the hard start works do I just leave it in place or go back to the old relay if it "un-sticks it"?
Hi! My lg linear compressor passed all the tests. But, my reading on the only pins that read are averaging 19. What does that mean? Thanks!
You may have a loose wire on the multimeter if the reading is not stable and is jumping too much. What is the actual problem? The compressor is not running at all or running, but not cooling the refrigerator?
@@Your-Self the compressor sounds to be running. Gets warm. But no cool air in freezer, no air flow In fridge
If you can feel the airflow in the freezer, but it's not cold, there are two possible problems.
Either the refrigerant gas has leaked out. Or, most likely, the internal reed valve cracked... typical for a Linear compressor. If the fridge is under 5 years old, LG usually replaces the compressor absolutely free.
I have a Kenmore Elite (made by LG). The compressor reads (0, 0, ~13.5) and not 7.5. Does this indicate the compressor is bad?
Your reading is a little high but could be attributed to an uncalibrated multimeter, so it's not bad electrically.
What is the actual problem with your refrigerator?
If the compressor is running but not cooling, most likely, the mechanical valve inside the compressor is damaged. So the compressor needs to be replaced because of that.
@@Your-Self Thank you for the quick reply. All fans are running, no frost build up behind the panel at the back of the lower freezer drawer. I've replaced the overload switch assembly and now the circuit board, and vacuumed out the dust from all the components in/around the compressor/radiator/etc. How can I be assured it is the mechanical valve? There is no rattle or rough sound or click. #stumped Is a failed mechanical valve common / part of the known issue for these linear compressors?
Yes, it's a typical problem with LG linear compressors. The compressor seems to be running, but it's only idling, not compressing due to the cracked valve. That's why LG extended their free-replacement warranty to 5 years.
The less likely problem is that the refrigerant has leaked out. To verify pressure inside, a tech needs to install gauges.
@@Your-Self I will call LG in the hopes this unit made March 2015 is covered, I read something about pushing it to 10y, otherwise I'll get it done locally. You rock, yours was the only video I could find with compressor specific readings. HUGE help.
The actual compressor warranty is 10 years. But you'll have to pay the labor of replacement cost of about ~$400 after the first 5 years.
I have a LG fridge with Linear Compressor.
Compressor tested and Ok
I bought new starter relay so relay is OK
Capacitor tested and OK
All fans are working including Coiled fan.
However, the compressor not start (not running) when I plugged in the power.
Can you tell me what else can be wrong?
Thanks
LG linear compressors don't have a starter relay... you probably mean overload relay.
The linear compressor is driven by the computer board (PCB). So, the board may be bad.
Linear compressors can be started and run with a "cheater cord" straight from the wall outlet. But I won't recommend doing it for nonprofessionals.
@@Your-Self thank you for your reply. I press the test button on the board and it gave me an error code 22. It means problem with compressor relay. I changed the compressor relay, but the compressor still not running.
The number 22 is not an error code, at least in the USA market.
It indicates Test-2. When you press the test button a third time, 33 should come up on most models. Other models just have two tests.
@@Your-Self ah I see. thank you . I think I should call for professional services since everything is in order but the compressor not running.
My GoldStar compressore wen measuring.. Have resistant with 18.2ohm, 44.8ohm and 58ohm. Is that consider compressor still funtion? When i switch on the, the compressor no running but get warm.
The resistance looks too high, but could be due to inaccurate multimeter. Does the compressor make a humming sound when it tries to start, and then do you hear a CLICK about every 20 seconds?
I have blcd and ist same on three 14.2. Ist my kompresor fine?
Probably yes.
My relay clicked and over nite the compressor was warm not hot but the coils were not warm or cold?
Try replacing the relay and see if it works.
Thank you for the video. I followed the steps and found the reading as 8.6, OL, OL. I have LG model LFXS29766S /00. I checked voltage coming from main circuit board to thermistor assembly and found it fluctuating and it never reached up to 110v. does it mean main board is having issue? both freezer and fridge are not cooling. overload protector is having continuity. thermistor assembly output to compressor is also not reaching up to 110v. not sure if it is suppose to be 110v. what could be the issue here? Thank you
The compressor seems to be good electrically with 8.6 ohms. Does it actually run?
The control board supplies the compressor with a variable 80-220 voltage. So if you are getting at least 80VAC the compressor should be running well. Do all the fans run?
Did you see the video on how to run the Test Mode on LG? ua-cam.com/video/70y61Sq_NU0/v-deo.html
I have an LG refrigerator that stopped cooling and was told by a technician that the compressor needs to be replaced. Several days later (after we ordered a new refrigerator and removed spoiled food) it has begun cooling and has returned to normal cooling and freezing levels. Is it possible that because the refrigerator had been overloaded that once it was emptied it could begin working again?
An overloaded refrigerator can still cool, but not very well, especially when air-vents are blocked. If yours didn't cool at all, the fact that you unplugged it for a while, and then plugged it back it, reset the control board. It's like restarting a computer or your phone, sometimes helps.
@@Your-Self Thanks very much for the analysis and prompt reply. The refrigerator had been turned off accidentally then turned back on. After it turned on it has been working well and allowed us to feel confident to cancel our order to replace the appliance.
I have Linear compressor testing out at "0", "0", and "9.5". but the load from the motherboard is only providing 58v. Would that be a defective motherboard? The problem is no cooling but all accessorizes seem to be working. Compressor runs but very little temp variation from inlet to outlet. any thoughts or suggestions?
It sounds like a bad PCB (motherboard) because the typical working voltage should be at least 80 VAC up to 180 VAC. However, linear compressors internally have a weak suction reed valve. If the valve is broken, the compressor will run, but will not compress refrigerant gas. The outlet and the condenser coil will stay around room temperature. ONLY if you are comfortable working with electricity, you can bypass the PCB and plug the Linear compressor directly to the wall 120V. Use those two pins were you measured the 9.5 ohms of resistance. The compressor will sound louder but will work. If it starts cooling, the PCB is bad. If it still is not cooling, the compressor is probably bad. Also, the refrigerant may have leaked out, and to verify that, you'll need to check the pressure inside the LOW and possibly the HIGH side as well.
Hi Mark, I have the exact same issue as you. Were you able to fix your fridge? Everything on my fridge seem to be working other than not cold or cold enough. I measured the voltage on the motherboard going to the compressor and it was ~150VAC. But the voltage across the 2 overload protector’s terminals to the compressor was less than 50VAC. Could a faulty overload protector be the root cause?
Paul Chang while the mother board showed insufficient voltage to the compressor it still did not fix my problem. Ended up being the compressor.
Hi Mark, this is what I am afraid of 😫. How did you figure it out it was the compressor after all? And did you have to replace the compressor by yourself, soldering and all? Mine is still under 10 years, so I will try to get LG to replace the compressor and pay the labor cost.....
Paul Chang
After I found out that the compressor had a 19 year warranty I called Sears out and they confirmed the compressor was bad. Basically they hooked up gauges and when they determined that it still had freon their only conclusion was to replace. Of course the fridge was out of warranty but the compressor was a “parts only” replacement. Still had to pay labor.
my lg linear compressor is6.5 ou，do you think is it ok？
I was just about to head to the big box store and buy a new fridge until I came across your video. I get a good ohms reading of 7.0 to 8.0 on the linear compressor. My problem is no cooling throughout the entire fridge. All fans work. Any advice is greatly appreciated.
A compressor can fail either electrically or mechanically. Since you have a good reading, most likely, your compressor has failed mechanically. That is typical for an LG linear compressor. There is a small chance that the refrigerant has leaked out from the system. And to know for sure, you need a tech to install gauges to check the pressure. Either way, it's an expensive repair.
@@Your-Self Just my luck, hey thanx for the response
Great video. I have a linear compressor and tested each contact and no reading. The compressor is vibrating but the unit is not cooling. Does this mean I have a bad compressor. LG frig 7 years old. Thanks
Since the compressor is vibrating, you should have at least one reading (possibly a bad multimeter).
However, the LG linear compressors can fail the way you described. Running vibrating but not cooling (crack in the reed valve).
A Less common issue with LG units is a refrigerant leak from the system. Which would have the same symptoms.
Either way, it's an expensive repair (((
Thank you for the video. I have an LG Linear compressor that im testing. The ohms read 9.0. What would higher than 7.5 mean? Thanks in advance.
Every compressor is a little different, and the exact resistance range is written in the tech-sheets for your unit. But 9 ohms between two terminals is typically a good number within the specification.
@@Your-Self Thank you!
Thanks for asking this question. I was getting an 8.2 reading on an LG linear.
@@Jagger02 so if your compressor was still good what was the problem on your fridge? Currently trying to fix mine
On a linar compressor i have where the other two pins i measured reading "OL" does that mean its bad
OL means "Open" because there is nothing there. As long as you have a small resistance between 2 pins and "OL" between others, it should be good electrically. But the linear compressor is very weak inside mechanically. The only way to prove it is to measure the pressure inside the Sealed System.
@@Your-Self thank you very much
So do you think up to now lg hasnt resolve the problems with their linear compresors? I just learned this problem after i bought a side by side 24 cu.f lg fridge so it would still breaks after a year? Give me some tips how to prolong the compresor's life if theres any pls.
Newer refrigerators come with a different operating algorithm, which supposed to improve the life of the compressor. However, only time will tell whether it works or not. Meanwhile, to prolong the life of your fridge, make sure that there are at least a couple of inches of free space between the fridge and all walls and cabinets. Air circulation is important for cooling the hot compressor and making it last longer. Also, clean the condenser coil regularly of dust and pet hair with a vacuum and brush.
@@Your-Self thank you so much for that info and advise.👍👍👍New subscriber here😃😃😃👍👍
I'm getting 0 on my lg linear. I replaced my relay and it sounds like the compressor is on, I can feel it viberating, it's cool but not cold. Am I maybe running the test wrong? Or would the compressor still kick on sometimes even if it reads 0?
If the compressor is capable of running, it can't read 0 between all 3 pins. Maybe a bad meter?
Need to look inside the freezer at Evaporator Coil. If it has a thick layer of icy frost, the problem could be with the Defrost. If no frost at all, the compressor could be going weak, or there is a leak of refrigerant gas from the system.
LG typically replaces weak compressors free for the first 5 years.
@@Your-Self I could be testing wrong. When I put both prongs on the copper pipe I get a reading ut between the 3 pins imnnit getting anything
I have my hand in the compressor and it's running but still getting error code 22 after replacing the relay. I have an appointment with a tech in a few days. Does this sound like my compressor needs to be replaced. It is a little warm
Running but not cooling, is a typical problem with the LG Linear compressors. But I can't be sure without being there.
Also, I'm not familiar with the error code 22. It would be nice if your tech could explain what that means. Because the only similar code I know is 22 22 when you run Test#2 from the motherboard.
Thank you for the video!
My compressor is the BLDC
I got a new inverter box installed today, plugged it in fridge and it worked! So
I’m happy but then I went to check in 30 minutes later compressor was super super hot!!! Why is that???
Thanks for your help in advance!
The compressor is hot, but is it still cooling your fridge?
Near the compressor should be a fan, is it running at the same time as the compressor?
Yes! The compressor is cooling and yes the Fan is working! but the compressor is super hot, it almost burned my hand!
The compressor could be hot because your fridge was really warm, and it takes a lot of power to cool it down initially. After that should be easier.
The condenser coils next to the compressor could be covered in dust and hair, clean it as needed.
The fan cooling the condenser and the compressor could be failing and working intermittently.
The fridge could be jammed into the corner without any gaps for sufficient air-flow behind it. Make sure there are about 2" gaps on all sides of your fridge.
Difficult to say exactly why, without being there to inspect it. Maybe it's normal operating temperature for your compressor, you just never noticed it before!?
I will put another Fan to help cooling it and thank you so much for all your help!
Hi, I have in BLDC compressor but not running. I checked the windings with 6.50 ohms on the three windings but when I checked the body of the compressor with the chassis I get resistance. Does this mean a new compressor is required?
BLDC compressors are generally very reliable. So make sure you are testing correctly, individual pins in the middle to the compressor's body or copper tubing. Not compressor body to the chassis frame.
Most of the time the inverter (gray box) burns out before the compressor.
@@Your-Self Thank you for you answer but I've already changed the inverter to no avail, maybe its the mother board then.
Before you continue spending money on parts, it's better to verify that the Motherboard is receiving the 120 VAC. And the inverter is receiving the same 120 VAC. The inverter also needs to receive a "run" DC voltage from the motherboard which varies between 2-5 VDC (on thinner wires).
What is your refrigerator model number?
@@Your-Self GE Profile PFE29PSDASS
Did you verify that the compressor is not shorted to ground?
Does the condenser fan (next to compressor) run?
Do fans inside the freezer and fridge run?
Do lights inside work?
Does the Inverter get 120 VAC on Black & Orange wires?
Does the Motherboard send a small DC voltage (up to 12 VDC) to the inverter? You can check it at the motherboard connector J9 pins 7 and 8.
If you are not sure how to do all those measurements, maybe it'll be cheaper to call a tech to figure the problem before replacing other parts.
I have been searching for an answer to my issue for 2 days and have come up empty. I hope you can help. I had a new chest freezer delivered 2 days ago and it was unboxed in my house. I noticed the vent grooves were very dirty so I ran my finger across it and it was either gray dust or powder. Before plugging it in, I wanted to make sure what I saw wasn't also inside the vent so I removed the panel and it is like new. I was relieved, but then noticed the compressor has a hardball sized discoloration on it, like it faded to grey. I have looked at dozens of compressor images online (can't find the exact replacement part) and they are all shiny and pure black. I'm wondering if this is not a brand new freezer after all.
It's impossible to say without looking at it. If you could take a photo or two, post it on a photo-sharing site, and share the link here, it would be great. Or make a short, but quality video, and post it on your UA-cam channel, so I can look at it.
@@Your-Self Thank you for the reply. I do have a photo. I have never tried to share one here but will figure it out.
@@Your-Self From my point of view, I'd think a brand new compressor is all shiny black and this looks like it's used and faded. I don't even know if the paint fades in time so I'm hoping you have some input from this image. I scanned that code and looked up the # but never found anything on a search. ibb.co/zF0WxLB
This compressor does look discolored, but everything else looks brand new. The discoloration is probably from a manufacturing mishap, but it's only cosmetic. I wouldn't worry about it unless the freezer is not working now.
@@Your-Self Thank you so much. You've eased my mind. I decided to plug it in and see what happens and it's cooling properly without any noise. I did read in my searches some compressors will make odd noises if there's a problem.
Can you take the wire off the thermostat and tie it to the compressor to see if the thermostat or the compressor is bad?
What if my ohms just jump around when on the compressor pegs and won’t give a real reading
Try to keep your leads as steady as possible.
Check your multimeter wires. They could be damaged or not inserted all the way.
I checked the resistance by putting one lead on the pins and the other one on the copper pipe but the numbers didn't jump around. But when I checked the resistance between the pins the numbers do jump around. Does that mean the compressor is bad?
The numbers could be jumping due to friction, or the multimeter could be bad. Try holding meter leads on the pins steady.
@@Your-Self You're right. It was due to friction. The numbers stabilized and the compressor seems to be good. Thanks
Nice video. I never heard of a linear compressor. Not knowing, if I was checking it and found 0.0 readings on 2 of the pins , I would think the winding's were shorted together. Is the compressor three phase or does it have a start and run winding. Thanks for the video
A cheap multimeter will show 0.0, but a more advanced meter will show OL. An LG linear compressor has just one run winding, unlike 3-phase or conventional start and run.
@@Your-Self nice to know/ never thought a compressor could run with just one winding.
What should be the voltage going to the linear compressor from the circuit board?
The circuit board supplies the compressor with a variable voltage based on needs. The typical operating voltage could be anywhere from 80Vac to 200+ Vac
Hi, I was wondering If you can help. My compressor looks to be working. It is an LG linear compressor. Test 9 ohms. Fan is working. The evaporator coils are cold behind the freezer panel but neither the fridge or freezer are getting cold. They are not warm but definitely not cold no matter what I set the temp to. Any help would be appreciated.
Is the fan inside the freezer also working?
When you look at the evaporator coil, it should be evenly covered in a thin layer of frost. If there is no frost, there may be a leak in the system, or the compressor is inefficient (bad.)
Yes the fan is working fine. There is no frost on the coils but they are noticeably cold (not freezer cold however). My next step was to test the pressure of the Freon then start ruling out if it is a leak or the compressor. Does that sound like a right approach? Also any idea as to what the pressure should be? Thanks again!
If your LG refrigerator is under 5 years old, call LG first, before you puncture the hole in the system. They should replace the compressor for free if you have the receipt.
The pressure varies by model. But typically, if you leave the refrigerator unplugged for about an hour, then install the gauge on the LOW side and see close to 0 PSI... the refrigerant is gone, leaked out. If you see around 40 PSI the gas is still there. Start the compressor and watch the gauge. If the pressure drops from 40 to about 0, the compressor should be good, but if it drops just a little, let"s say from 40 to 30, the compressor is bad, which is common for Linear Compressors.
@@Your-Self hi so I tested it. When I turned on the compressor, it stayed at the same pressure. Didn't decrease. What does that mean?
What pressure was it?
Assuming it was around 40 PSI and didn't decrease much after you turn on the compressor... it's a bad compressor.
Wow, thanks for the info. The comments have also been a help but I have yet to find the root cause. I have an old school Amana. Last night something suddenly started buzzing, not wake the dead loud but loud enough to hear it from another room. I unplugged the fridge and plugged it back in. The buzzing stopped but I heard a cyclical clicking every couple minutes. Fast forward to my investigation. The compressor is not running but gets hot. All fans run. The ptc relay does not rattle and there is continuity between the 5 & 6 female holes. The overload is separate and has continuity, although a bit of resistance. Is this an issue? I have not yet checked the capacitor as my DVOM does not have that capability. This is interesting. The cyclical click is actually 2 clicks. I hear the first click and the inside light dims a bit and the fan slows a bit. About 10 seconds later I get another click and the light and fan return to normal. This cycle is happening once a minute or just under. If I put a finger on the ptc and another finger on the overload, I feel the clicks more with the finger that is on the overload. I did the 3 pin resistance check per this video and although I didn't get 2 numbers that total the 3rd, at about 16, 12, and 8 ohms, I was as close as some others that have commented. Aside from the capacitor check, have I missed anything?
How much of the resistance does your overload have?
It should be close to 0... something between 0.0 - 0.4 is OK.
If it's higher than that, check your multimeter leads against each other. Leads themselves may have some resistance in them.
@@Your-Self I checked it again with a better meter and yes, it is almost nothing. I was also able to check the capacitor with the borrowed meter. It measured 11.8mf. That doesn't leave much unchecked.
Yeah, it points to a seized compressor. Even if it checks out well with a multimeter, it can lock up mechanically.
You could still try replacing the start relay just to rule it out completely. But looks like the compressor is bad.
@@Your-Self have you ever used one of the compressor jump start kits that sell for about $15?
I personally haven't.
But a Hard-start kit can give you an extra boost to possibly unlock the compressor.
You could try an RCO810 for a smaller/mini refrigerator. Or an RCO410 for larger/regular units.
With a Hard-start kit, the compressor may start and run, but it can still overheat and cause problems. Just keep an eye on it.
Great videos! I have an lg lfx28978st 10 years+ (just out of warranty) and a month ago it started to moan (it was running hot) so I cleaned out the back and it went back to normal. Last week it stopped holding temperature, 20 in the freezer ( Ice cream like whipped cream) and the fridge is about 40 (a bit warm) and runs almost continuously. I pulled it apart (freezer) all the fans run, coil in the freezer only frost in a couple places and I ran the tests/reset based on your other video it didn't really do anything and there are no LED flashes. No signs of R143a leak. I tried testing the ohms but I am not getting a decent reading. The buzzer only sounds on 1 connection, but if I turn to different scales I get something out of another and I'm not sure of the reading as the scales are messing me up. The 7.5 ohms is really 7.5K right? Based on what my Fridge is doing I assume it's dying, is that correct or is there something that would make it run all the time and not cool, like a clog which i would assume be coming from something in the compressor.
Your model has a Linear compressor, so the resistance should be a small 6-9 ohms (not "K ohms").
The fact that you got 10+ years out of this LG compressor, is a great deal!
Your assumption is correct, the problem is with the Sealed System. Any component of the System repair will be expensive (~$600-$1000). So you need to decide if it's worth the repair.
@@Your-Self I looked at LG fridges yesterday and noticed where the door has water and ice still says linear but on the other side it says on a little badge “inverter linear”. Did they change the probable magic compressors or did it always say that? I did see where they have a software update to prevent their common line leaks due to corrosion from killing the compressor.
On last one, linear should be not 0.0, but Infinity sign.
But anyway, thank you for the video.
I have an LG linear compressor and on the two pins that have any measurement, my digital multimeter is jumping all over the place with negative numbers from -.03 to -56. I tried an analog meter and the two pins measured between 1.0 and 0. I suspect this is not good. I'm a novice with multimeters so it could be user error. By the way, the fan blows but compressor does not turn on.
It sounds like a bad multimeter or a user error.
Have you tried the Test Button to see if the compressor runs as on the next video...? ua-cam.com/video/70y61Sq_NU0/v-deo.html
@@Your-Self Yes, did the test and the fan comes on but not the compressor. Checked the multimeter and found the red line dangling by a thread from the plug in so that would do it. Need to get a new one and recheck. Thanks for quick reply.
ONLY if you are comfortable working with electricity, you could check and run the LG Linear compressor by applying the 120VAC directly to 2 pins where you measured the resistance. This works only on Linear compressors, and if it runs like that, your motherboard is probably malfunctioning. But first, make sure to check that your compressor is not shorted to ground.
@@Your-Self With the new multimeter, I measured resistance again and it fluctuated between 6-8. Not feeling that comfortable with applying the 120VAC to the compressor, I called in a repair person and he confirmed that the control panel appeared to be the issue. It cost a bit more for the confirmation, but most definitely a lot cheaper than buying a new frig. Ordered the new control panel from LG's parts supplier (Encompass.com) and I'll put that in myself. Thanks for your very helpful input and hopefully the new control panel will do it.
Good luck!
I have 11.7 between three windings, and no short with ground, so that means my compressor is bldc, and is good?
Yes, your compressor is BLDC and it's good electrically. What exactly is a problem, the compressor is not running, or running but not cooling?
@@Your-Self two seconds in working, it makes laud noise and trips the circuit.
The tripping circuit breaker could be as simple as a weak breaker, and as difficult as insulation on one of the wires breaking down and causing the short. You probably need to call a technician to assess the situation and measure the inrush current at which the breaker trips.
Thanks for the video! I followed the video to test my LG linear compressor (FLB075LANA). The reading is 9.5, O.L and O.L (not measurable). Does it mean the compressor is bad? The compressor is running but not cooling at all. Thanks a lot!
The resistance reading of your compressor is good, but it probably failed mechanically. The internal suction valve is very weak on these compressors, so it's just idling and not compressing. If you have a purchase receipt and your fridge is under 5 years-old, LG will fix it absolutely free. After 5 years you'll have to pay labor fee about $400
@@Your-Self Thanks for the quick reply! I will contact LG.
@@witherdragon22 Hello, Were you able to have your compressor fixed by LG? Were you seeing error code 22? I have same compressor and not cooling at all. resistance readings are 8.3, OL and OL.
A Kumar I didn’t check for any error code. LG came and replaced the compressor covered by warranty, it is fixed now.
My LG FRIDGE stopped freezing all the items in the freezer the fan seems to work ..also takes forever making Ice as well. Do you think this is an easy fix? Gonna have to throw away a bunch of food soon :( can't seem to find a freezer switch either
There is no easy answer to this question. Maybe need to clean condenser coils from dust, or it could be a beginning of a major Sealed System problem. Try to run a system Test first as on the linked video, and go from there... ua-cam.com/video/70y61Sq_NU0/v-deo.html
Can you please also show how to test wisemotion compressor.
The wisemotion compressor is rare and weird. Unlike other compressors, it can stop running because there is a refrigerant leak in the system. It's difficult to figure out what the problem is for a DIYer. It's best to call Whirlpool authorized tech to troubleshoot it.
Great video, pretty sure I have an old school, resistance I'm getting is 52.9 - 52.3 - 105 so works out, but considerably higher, is this still okay, I change the relay (but it looks like I was sent a faulty one)
If your multimeter works well, the resistance is kinda high, but not unheard of. It just means that this compressor uses about twice as much electricity to run. What exactly is the problem... the compressor doesn't start at all?
@@Your-Self the compressor is working but the refrigerator is not very cold. It reaches maximum - 5°C. In your video you say the measurements on linear compressor is different than those i found. The measurements i found are similar to old school compressor so i think this is the problem. I need to find solutions to inform the technician because at he's last visit 3 months ago he said it's leaking fluid but i don't trust him because the refrigerator is at the same condition. If it's leaking it should be empty until now correct?
I just tried this and have a BLDC compressor part MKV190CL2J/SM1 in my Samsung. I measured 11.8 for all 3 of the measurements. Is my compressor bad? I replaced my relay starter thing and my 2 temp sensors in my fridge and still it's not working.
When you say "I replaced my relay starter thing" do you mean the inverter (computer board inside gray box)?... because BLDC compressors don't have a starter relay.
What exactly is not working... the compressor is not running at all, or running, but not cooling?
What's the refrigerator model number?
@@Your-Self It's a Samsung RF267AERS. And I mean I replaced the overload here - www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Overload/DA34-00004D/2025770 . The inverter PCB is in the rear of the fridge but I think that is the problem. The compressor is not running at all. My inverter board is also blinking 1 LED every 2 seconds or so. I tried using a multimeter to read the power line going to the compressor and I get no voltages between the VDD and VSS.
Your refrigerator model has 2 PCBs next to each other, and the smaller one with a blinking light is the inverter. Look closer on the inverter, and you may see a bulging capacitor, or some burnt marks on the front or the back of the PCB. It's a common failure, so try replacing it.
@@Your-Self Thanks for the reply. So I did replace my inverter PCB. The light on the other one would blink once real fast every 2 or so seconds. With the new one, it is blinking a little slower but blinks 4 times then stops. Then it repeats. I thought I could hear like a ruffle sound coming from the compressor but it still is not turning on. Any ideas?
Well, the 4 blinks indicate a locked compressor... not good news.
It's possible the compressor was locked before, but the old inverter was trying to start it multiple times anyway and eventually burnt out.
If you have a clamp-multimeter, you can measure the current flow to your refrigerator... unplug and plug it back in... if you see the current spike to about 6-10 amps for a few seconds, the inverter is doing its job supplying power to the compressor, and if the compressor is humming, but not running, it's probably locked :(
Since you have nothing to lose, try lightly tapping on the compressor from all sides with a hammer... it may unlock the compressor, albeit for a short while.