393 Windsor Build part 1 Introduction and Parts 393W
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- Опубліковано 26 лип 2024
- I am starting the build of a 393W and am creating a series of videos around this project. This is the introduction talking about where I am going with the video series and what my plan are for this project.
393 Windsor Ford Stroker Build Part 2: FloTek Thumper Heads 393W
• 393 Windsor Ford Strok...
393 Windsor Ford Stroker Build Part 3 DIY Camshaft Bearing Installation SBF Homemade Install Tool
• 393 Windsor Ford Strok... - Авто та транспорт
looking forward to your stroker build! I like the idea of the 390 badging also!
Coming soon!
Daze! I'm farting around w/ a 393 build and came across your video doing research & realized that I've bought stuff from you (probably for when i did my T5 swap)! Now I'm sold on the 393 if you're on board.
glad I could be an inspiration
Hey Daze, I know you through the Mustang Steve website. I look forward to following this project.
Welcome aboard!
i like
I'm glad... me too 😁
subscribed
Thanks!!
Would love to see the cost of these items. And the cost of the machine work that you have to pay for. Obviously it sounds like you’re pretty handy and will be doing a bunch of it yourself. But it is rare to see the actual cost of the builds. I love to see the cost and I’m sure many others would too as well. PS I did click like and I did subscribe. Continued success to you!
Thanks for the like and subscribing!! Cost is an outstanding idea. I will add the exact info to a future video. I currently have between $3100 and $3500 into it. I have a few more things to order like pushrods and rockers. I also am undecided on the intake. I have a performer intake but know this engine would perform a lot better with a performer RPM. I will not have a lot of hood clearance so I am not sure if I can get away with the taller manifold.
I've been wanting to do this to my 67 for over 25 years. I should get off my butt and do it already. Having Gear Vendor and 393 gears behind it, would be a great time!
It does sound like fun!!
Uh, the Gear Vendor is circa 1985 when no one had an OD that could handle the power. Get a TKO or T56..
@@bluesky-ud9wg TKO is old technology there is no reason to mess with one now that the TKX is available.
@@dazecars Agreed but You also said Gear Vendor, who actually uses those anymore? Like the roots big ass blower? Also, who runs those? My point is use a modern OD trans
@@bluesky-ud9wg I never once mentioned gear venders. You were responding to someone else and I pointed out that your reply of "outdated hardware" was recommending an outdated transmission 😁 besides if someone invested a bunch of money in a gear vendors unit 20 or 30 years ago and it is working for them there is no reason to spend the money on a 5 or 6 speed. Why are you trying to transmission shame them 🤣🤣🤣
Looking forward to your build. You mentioned a "stroker kit" and I'm wondering the source?
I purchased it from Eagle. It was back ordered and took 9 months to receive it.
Daze...could you talk about the ring pak size you are using? Hopefully it is the "newer/thinner" metric rings and/or low tension rings.
I would like to see a comparison of the amount of torque needed to turn over an engine with metric rings vs the old style conventional ring pak.
Also the weight of the 302 pistons vs the weight of the std. 351 pistons comparison would interesting. (less weight on the small end of the rod)
Not sure how I would measure the difference the rings create. As to the pistons, due to several comments I will shoot a video just on the pistons comparing the differences and I will weigh them. Won't be 100% accurate as the the rods and pistons are already together and none of the parts are the "same) but still good for a comparison.
Michael, I did this with my '86 302 from stock re ring rebuild vs my 347 build with Wiseco GFX ring package (1.5-1.5-3.0mm)
the stock rebuild was right around 22 lb ft breakaway and the Wiseco GFX package was 13 lb ft of breakaway both had assembly lube in the bearings also so these results may be slightly higher due to the increased viscosity
There is a big difference in the ring pak and drag on the rotating Assembly, when we switched pistons in my 393w it took less effort too rotate it by hand
👍
Hi Daze, IV watched this video several times just for reference knowledge and self learn on things I'm not sure about. Im building a 393 with the stroker kit from LMR. I have a set of AFR Renegade 185's 2.02/1.90 58cc chambers....according to the kit info my compression will be 12:3:1. That's a lil high for me to drive it to beach and back...lol I may have missed it but what is your compression looking like?
My kit came with dished postons so I will be sitting around 9.5:1
Daze, picked up on this from the MustangSteve fyi site.
Talk a little about Rod selection, are you going to use stock 351 truck rods or aftermarket rods? I had always heard that the truck (roller) motor rods were better than the standard 351 rods. Great series, looking forward
That is a good idea. I will do a comparison between the stock rod piston combination and the stroker rod piston combination. Because this engine is a stroker I had to go with longer rods and shorter pistons than stock to accommodate the longer stroke that means aftermarket rods. They came with the 393 kit.
@@dazecars I know there is two ways of getting the right piston/rod combination. You can use stock length 351 rods (5.956") and stock 302 pistons, all of the added stroke is in the crank, or there are kits that use a 6.2" rod and custom piston. The stock truck rods have a different style rod bolt and machining on the rod that is supposed to make them stronger and a good low dollar option. I have a roller 351 from a 96 F150 in the shed that is my bucket list motor, and I want to build exactly what you are about to for my 68 Stang. There is nothing wrong with my 331, but I really want the low RPM torque from the 393.
@@kardad4895 Fantastic info. I didn't research it that much. Rather than doing the mix and match I just purchased the complete stroker kit. I will do some comparison between the cranks and the rod piston comboes, I think that is a good idea for a vid, thanks.
@@dazecars what is the part s for the eagle stroker kit?
@@FE428Power this the one I am running
Eagle Street and Strip Rotating Assemblies 16526030
What web site did you get the kit from?
This kit I came from Summit.. It was backordered when I ordered it with an estimated ship date of 10 weeks from the day I ordered it. It took me 9 MONTHS to the day to get it after it was ordered (because it shipped directly from the manufacturer Summit charged my CC the day I ordered it not the day it shipped). It was also $250 less a year ago.
i just bought a 351 f4te block for a stroker build. is the crank and 387 stroker crank? and then the 30 over bore makes that a 393?
Yes I believe that is how the displacement is achieved
Daze, are you running stock cam in this build?
That was the plan. This is going in my 62 Galaxie (big heavy land yacht) and I was going to use the truck cam for massive low end torque BUT I am rethinking that. I have a video dropping tomorrow on this build but my next one after that will likely be on cam selection.
@@dazecars pistons did you run the whole eagle kit? Rods and piston heads and crank?
@@Dcante23 The ones eagle provided. pistons are KB. I do a specific video on rods and pistons. ua-cam.com/video/SEk698sCDnI/v-deo.html
I’m confused, is there a different pin height in some 302 pistons, thought 302/351 pistons were the same......? I think 1.600” ?
Not the same. Pistons are another one of the things like the intake and oil pan that are not directly interchangeable between the 302 and 351. There is another video in this series that shows the difference ua-cam.com/video/SEk698sCDnI/v-deo.html
@@dazecars yeah , it’s been a while since I built my last 351w (almost 30 years) I just finished a 302. I had watched another video on a ‘387 stroke’ and they only referred to them (the pistons) as ‘foxbody pistons’ which made me wonder if there was a difference between (i didn’t think so)early 302 and later ones like in my 87 5.0L. So just went to summit and searched 302 pistons. Sure enough they showed all kinds of pistons but most were listed ‘302/351W’ . The one I click on was the Summit one I believe I used in my recent build . Looking at the spec sheet it it showed 1.600 pin height, for 1968- 1990+. Stil puzzled (so what was special about 302 pistons)the next day I researched further, 351 pistons and found they are 1.750 . I don’t know why Summit shows 302/ 351w Ford pistons and then you have to check the specs to see which they are. I can’t to see how your build turns out.
@@taco472 technically they are interchangeable given that they have the same bore. I guess they assume you will know what pin height you need
Flo Tek? Seriously? China head, China valves....
Nope assembled in the US so put together well.
@@dazecars Assembled not manufactured....
@@bluesky-ud9wg and your point is? 90% of goods consumed by the United States are manufactured in other countries completely, start to finish. Yes there are crappy import heads that are total junk with the cheapest valves and springs that can be purchased, but that is not the case here as these are not procomp heads. Flotek heads are anything but junk Flotek has been selling heads for more than 10 years and has a proven track record. They are a good head assembled in the US for quality and reliability. They use quality valves and springs. If you want something that is both quality and budget friendly they are a fantastic option, and in purchasing them you are supporting a US company. I never once said they were better than an Edelbrock or AFR head in any way other than price. And sadly just because something is made in the US no longer is it a guarantee of quality like it once was. The reverse is also true there is now a lot of import merchandise that is high quality even though it is produced in China and other countries. I have ben burned more than once trying to buy US made product. I paid more for it and got something inferior to its import counterpart. A person needs to look at the product not just the price or where it is made. Take all that into consideration when buying heads.
@@dazecars Anyway China valves. At the very least buy a set of Bare heads and the valvetrain separately, have a machine shop verify everything in the head is good, way too many errors from shit heads....
When I built my 363 8.2" deck engine I never looked at FloTek or ProComp.
I used AFR 195 Renegade cylinder heads.
I paid more....but I'm not going to buy a cheaper copycat head from a company that did no research nor any development.
Not well known to the public, Ford had a 393ci sbf Windsor Can-Am eng in 1967... Some Forgotten History... Ford cast a new 351w 9.2" deck sbf xe race block in 1966 (XE 93532) which got to just over 400CI in 1969 for Can-Am racing. This is were the later "351C" got most its spec's from when B Knudsen pushed his own "Oldsland" inspired version through screwing up the 351W blocks development... goo gle "351w xe block" for more info.
interesting, thanks for the history lesson