Hell yea bro thats going to be a sick build my truck is basically stroker when I rebuild it found out its a 429 block with 460 internals crank and heads someone built a frankenstein engine in the past i guess 😂
I'm about to do the same ci build. I'd recommend using plastigauge to see what your clearances are. That will help you know what weight oil to run among other things. Also check thrust clearance. Looks good tho! Hope you enjoy it!
There's not much to these old pushrod engine's most guys make a way bigger deal about building on then I do with checking all the clearances I just send the shit if it doesn't work I don't want it anyway lol
Hello, always like the way you explain what you do. I have the same parts but with stock rods, can I put the parts together without balancing the assembly? Where I live is difficult to find a machine shop that offers balancing service. Thank you
Awesome brothers! I’m about to start building my 351 into a 393 as well for the ranger. Since I lost the 302 lol. 👍🏼 Are those forged pistons or hypereutectic?
@@CCAutoWorks got cha they looked like old TRW’s. I’m trying to do this on the cheap lol my block is decent and gonna stay with std bore. Keep thinking if I should just reuse the pistons out of my 302 or I can get the summit forged ones with coated skirts for $373. Sounds good can’t wait for the next video on the engine build. Thanks brother. 👍🏼
@@CCAutoWorks yes they look fine I’ll know what the skirts look like once I pull them. Plus I already opened up the intake valve relief on them before 🤔
This is why I use 6.200" rods and shorter pistons... No filing and you bought new rods and pistons anyway. With the cost of parts might as well go 408, unless you're using factory 351 rods and factory 302 pistons for a true poor man's stroker. With Windsor strokers I only like having to clearance the block and 383 (3.75 stroke w/ 6.25" rods) and 408 (4.00 stroke w/ 6.2" rods) cranks balance easier than the 393 cranks.
Eagle crank $400 scat rods $300 stock 0.030 302 pistons $120 rings $40 bearings $100 so short block was around $1000 promaxx heads are $1200 intake $450 pushrods and rockers $300 roller cam with factory lifters $500 carb $450 distributor $120 with wires gaskets and head bolts ext $300 around $4500 total
Hell, a Scat is fine if you're not shootin over 150! I got 2 sets of heads, a professionally ported set of 289 heads, and a set of cheap aluminum heads! A 393w is all about on the cheap! Otherwise. You'd buy a 408w kit!!😂😂
@CCAutoWorks Finally Ford guys can put the die grinders up! The Windsors have a much better rod/stroke ratio! But, if Mopar would just make a really good head?!! That tall deck!
@@CCAutoWorks I'll be watching! Math decides a good engine, no matter what the valve covers say! A Dodge 360 based block with heads that would flow 275cfm would be awesome!
That thing should run strong in a light little Mustang, is gonna be a very fun car to drive with that 393 in there! What stroke is that crank? That's unfair for us Chevy guys, to build a 383 ten cubes less there is a but load of block grinding that has to be done so the rod bolts don't hit the block AND the bottom of the cylinders in some cases! Stupid Chevys! LOL
@@CCAutoWorks The block clearancing isn't hard to do even easier if you get the sbc Scat stoker rods, David Vizard claims that if the block needs clearancing it's not very much but most of the time they clear without any grinding. Just be aware if you get a cam with more than .334" of lobe lift .500" with 1.5:1 rocker you will need a small base circle or there can be cam to rod clearance issues but not sure with the Scat rods? An obs truck would love to have a sbc 383 in it, what year is yours?
@@CCAutoWorks Nice, a roller block but get rid of those swirl port heads and run at least a set of 350 Vortec heads. The swirl port heads don't flow enough air for a 383. They only flow around 168 intake CFM. So unless you only want your 383 to rev to about 4,000 RPM don't use the swirl port heads. LOL If you ever remove an intake valve on one of those heads you'll see why they don't flow. Also You're going to want to ditch the throttle body injection as well. You can get a kit to hook up a switch so you can lockup your converter. I have a sbc 383 in my '65 Chevy Impala that weighs 4,400 lbs so I basically built it as a truck engine for low end torque. It has 9.6:1 static compression with a Comps cams XFI grind the one with .550" in and .546" ex lift with 202in/212ex duration @.050" on a 113 LSA. It has unported Patriot Performance aluminum heads with the Weiand Airgap RPM style intake on it and a 850 Holley D/P. It is backed with a 700R4 and a 3.07:1 rear gear with posi-traction. It does 13.0s in the QM @ 101 mph and knocks off 24 to 26 mpg on the highway and around 17 mpg city.(it might do better but it is so hard to keep my foot out of it in 1st gear the way it pulls like a freight train) If I were to change anything on that engine build I would of used 1.72:1 roller rockers instead of the called for 1.6:1 for the XFI cam. It would get the lift up to .591" in and .587" ex lift and give me 2 more degrees of duration @ .050" to 204/214 with the extra ratio. Also I would of used the beehive springs for .600" lift instead of using the flat tappet ones that came on the assembled heads.🙄 The pistons were just cheap Speed-Pro hypereutectic 5.7" Ohio Crank cap screw rods, which I would change to Scat stroker rods. It is an Ohio Crank cast steel 383 crank which is just fine for that build. It is a 2 bolt block with ARP main studs, which are rated for more power than the crank is. But if I were to start from scratch I would use one of those cheap halo girdles with some ARP hardware. They rate those kind of cranks @ 500 HP which I think is on the very conservative side? Instead of rating them at 500 HP they should rate them by RPM/HP. I would say they can probably handle about 700 HP as long as the RPM are under 7,000 when making that number. Sorry about the book up there, LOL I must of got a little carried away?
Hello "C&C Auto Works'"! Thank you for showing us such a wonderful video! I feel so happy! I'm looking forward to your next work! Have a nice day!
Thank you, and keep up videos like these, hope to see soon a 408w build 😁😁👍🏻
One day
Great closeups and informative! Thanks so much! 👍😎👍
Loves these 351w builds great job!
Thank you
Sweet little Shortblock build ,Cant wait for first fire ..
Hell yea bro thats going to be a sick build my truck is basically stroker when I rebuild it found out its a 429 block with 460 internals crank and heads someone built a frankenstein engine in the past i guess 😂
That's a sweet deal
real clean environment for an engine assembly.
Lol yessir just goes to show u how over rated it is built many engines in the same spot not one failer
I'm about to do the same ci build. I'd recommend using plastigauge to see what your clearances are. That will help you know what weight oil to run among other things. Also check thrust clearance. Looks good tho! Hope you enjoy it!
That's a great idea thanks for watching
Speaking for Atleast myself, I don’t need all the fancy works. I just enjoy seeing the progress of whatever build y’all come up with.
Appreciate it Connor
Oh yeah baby that’s what i been waiting for, great video guy’s 👍👍
Thanks for stopping by Mike
I like it man give me the nitty gritty.... Nut and bolts build ...hold the flashy stuff just the facts man and nothing but the facts.
Yessir thank you
Hey Chris. Good video. You're off to a good start. Thanks for sharing.🍁👍👍
Hey Andy thanks for stopping by
Looking forward to seeing it completed!
Yessir I'm ready to hear it run already
Those pistons are g 🐸🍺🔪🔥
Oh I need this. I'm thinking when the 302 in the 65 is "ready" (when it's ready to give up on life) I'm going to go ahead and go 347.
347 runs real strong you would love it
Good video.
That’s gonna be a bad ass engine.I don’t think I have the patience to file those skirts.Nice job!
👊😎🤟
There soft it goes quick
Got a couple W blocks give to me, looking to build the same ci. Appreciate the content
It's easy cheap HP
Some good information there. Chris you sure do know your engines
There's not much to these old pushrod engine's most guys make a way bigger deal about building on then I do with checking all the clearances I just send the shit if it doesn't work I don't want it anyway lol
@@CCAutoWorks 🤣🤣
Cool 👍👍
Nicely done 👍
Thanks Robert
Good job, should be a runner.
We sure hope so thank you for watching
It is a eagle crankshaft just as yours and stock ford 351 rods with 030 over pistons
Then you don't need a machine shop if u have a .30 block just a little clearancing with the block u can do
Just wut you tryna say ‘bout muh music🧐😂
I hacked off a few skirts in my day. Some of’m slapped pretty hard🤣🤣
These are a different kinda skirt lol
Hello, always like the way you explain what you do. I have the same parts but with stock rods, can I put the parts together without balancing the assembly? Where I live is difficult to find a machine shop that offers balancing service. Thank you
Depends on what crankshaft you bought but stock balancer and flex plate or flywheel should do the trick
Awesome brothers! I’m about to start building my 351 into a 393 as well for the ranger. Since I lost the 302 lol. 👍🏼
Are those forged pistons or hypereutectic?
There just cheap speed pro hyper 302 pistons it's actually a good stroker to build nice and easy not much grinding required
@@CCAutoWorks got cha they looked like old TRW’s. I’m trying to do this on the cheap lol my block is decent and gonna stay with std bore. Keep thinking if I should just reuse the pistons out of my 302 or I can get the summit forged ones with coated skirts for $373. Sounds good can’t wait for the next video on the engine build. Thanks brother. 👍🏼
@@1953fords 373 is a lot these where 180
@@1953fords if your 302 pistons are good I'd save money and use them
@@CCAutoWorks yes they look fine I’ll know what the skirts look like once I pull them. Plus I already opened up the intake valve relief on them before 🤔
This is why I use 6.200" rods and shorter pistons... No filing and you bought new rods and pistons anyway. With the cost of parts might as well go 408, unless you're using factory 351 rods and factory 302 pistons for a true poor man's stroker.
With Windsor strokers I only like having to clearance the block and 383 (3.75 stroke w/ 6.25" rods) and 408 (4.00 stroke w/ 6.2" rods) cranks balance easier than the 393 cranks.
This was my first rodeo as far as strokers and was going to use factory rods but couldn't deal with the press fit
that's how I built mine is stock rod mine is a 398 60 over
Sweet how u like it
What was your cost for 393w parts build minus the price of block?… I’m debating this or ls swap
For just the short block or the entire engine
Eagle crank $400 scat rods $300 stock 0.030 302 pistons $120 rings $40 bearings $100 so short block was around $1000 promaxx heads are $1200 intake $450 pushrods and rockers $300 roller cam with factory lifters $500 carb $450 distributor $120 with wires gaskets and head bolts ext $300 around $4500 total
Use an impact and give it 3 ugga dugga’s and call it good, that’s my kind of torque specs! 🤣 ✌️
Lol hell yeah thanks for watching brother
Hell, a Scat is fine if you're not shootin over 150! I got 2 sets of heads, a professionally ported set of 289 heads, and a set of cheap aluminum heads! A 393w is all about on the cheap! Otherwise. You'd buy a 408w kit!!😂😂
Your right thanks for watching
@CCAutoWorks Finally Ford guys can put the die grinders up! The Windsors have a much better rod/stroke ratio! But, if Mopar would just make a really good head?!! That tall deck!
@@CCAutoWorks I'll be watching! Math decides a good engine, no matter what the valve covers say! A Dodge 360 based block with heads that would flow 275cfm would be awesome!
@@markmccarty9793 that's what we're looking to build next project some kinda Mopar
@@CCAutoWorks I'll be watching! You just gotta find a head that'll flow 280. 290 cfm! Just turn it 6500 rpm! That long rod!!
That thing should run strong in a light little Mustang, is gonna be a very fun car to drive with that 393 in there! What stroke is that crank?
That's unfair for us Chevy guys, to build a 383 ten cubes less there is a but load of block grinding that has to be done so the rod bolts don't hit the block AND the bottom of the cylinders in some cases! Stupid Chevys! LOL
3.850 is the crank stroke I've never tried to build a 383 because all the horror stories of heard but I'd like to try build one for my obs
@@CCAutoWorks
The block clearancing isn't hard to do even easier if you get the sbc Scat stoker rods, David Vizard claims that if the block needs clearancing it's not very much but most of the time they clear without any grinding.
Just be aware if you get a cam with more than .334" of lobe lift .500" with 1.5:1 rocker you will need a small base circle or there can be cam to rod clearance issues but not sure with the Scat rods?
An obs truck would love to have a sbc 383 in it, what year is yours?
@@itseithergonnaworkoritaint7852 mines a 92
@@CCAutoWorks
Nice, a roller block but get rid of those swirl port heads and run at least a set of 350 Vortec heads. The swirl port heads don't flow enough air for a 383. They only flow around 168 intake CFM. So unless you only want your 383 to rev to about 4,000 RPM don't use the swirl port heads. LOL If you ever remove an intake valve on one of those heads you'll see why they don't flow. Also
You're going to want to ditch the throttle body injection as well. You can get a kit to hook up a switch so you can lockup your converter.
I have a sbc 383 in my '65 Chevy Impala that weighs 4,400 lbs so I basically built it as a truck engine for low end torque. It has 9.6:1 static compression with a Comps cams XFI grind the one with .550" in and .546" ex lift with 202in/212ex duration @.050" on a 113 LSA. It has unported Patriot Performance aluminum heads with the Weiand Airgap RPM style intake on it and a 850 Holley D/P. It is backed with a 700R4 and a 3.07:1 rear gear with posi-traction. It does 13.0s in the QM @ 101 mph and knocks off 24 to 26 mpg on the highway and around 17 mpg city.(it might do better but it is so hard to keep my foot out of it in 1st gear the way it pulls like a freight train)
If I were to change anything on that engine build I would of used 1.72:1 roller rockers instead of the called for 1.6:1 for the XFI cam. It would get the lift up to .591" in and .587" ex lift and give me 2 more degrees of duration @ .050" to 204/214 with the extra ratio. Also I would of used the beehive springs for .600" lift instead of using the flat tappet ones that came on the assembled heads.🙄
The pistons were just cheap Speed-Pro hypereutectic 5.7" Ohio Crank cap screw rods, which I would change to Scat stroker rods. It is an Ohio Crank cast steel 383 crank which is just fine for that build. It is a 2 bolt block with ARP main studs, which are rated for more power than the crank is. But if I were to start from scratch I would use one of those cheap halo girdles with some ARP hardware. They rate those kind of cranks @ 500 HP which I think is on the very conservative side? Instead of rating them at 500 HP they should rate them by RPM/HP. I would say they can probably handle about 700 HP as long as the RPM are under 7,000 when making that number.
Sorry about the book up there, LOL I must of got a little carried away?
@@itseithergonnaworkoritaint7852 thank you for all the info I've already put vortec heads and carb swapped my obs