Taking inventory of what I have spent so far, and what I still need to get for the 383 Stroker Engine for the 1976 Nova project car. www.summitracing.com/parts/su...
Thanks. I'm getting close to first start. After that I intend to follow-up with the rest and maybe even a pdf of every item with part numbers and costs.
Steve from Annapolis have fun very thorough about your project keep up the good work you'll have fun especially when it's completed it's very rewarding
buddy im 52 years old and i still get the same feeling every time i build a engine as i did when i was 15 the first time i heard a engine i built run. nice engine by the way. thanks for ur time making the video.
Mike, This is my first real build. Started off to be a mild 355 and then snowballed. I got the heads first and then the cam before I started on the block. It'll be fine for an old man. I'm not out to set any records. Just building the hot rod I wanted as a kid. Maybe someday it will get upgraded. Thanks for watching and commenting. Merry Christmas.
Better to be able to say built, not bought. The satisfaction is a much greater feeling when it’s all said and done. I’m building an 91 camaro rs and I’m working on putting together a badass 383 right now. You’ve given me some things to think about. Thanks
It’s great to see you are dedicated to a comprehensive and well thought out build. Your choices like the higher race spec balancing, crank polishing, and the fluid damper. Show you have a good understanding of engine building.
Thanks. I think I understand what you mean. If you don't have the tools, time, or a place to work, I agree. If it's the "how to" knowledge, that can be obtained. Especially today with the internet. I think we often limit ourselves out of fear of making a mistake, Also fear is used to sell us the idea that we need to pay someone to do it for us. Thanks for watching.
I like how you were obviously careful in your parts selection and what you had done to the block. I agree with others that this engine will last forever. I hope you have videos to see how the engine turned out as finished. I also love how you answer every comment. Nice.
Thank You! There is a complete series on the engine build including the recent First Run and Cam break in video. Working now on the Nova that will be the home for the engine.
Watching this on Christmas day, 2021. I'm doing 'research on a 383 build for a large old '70s station wagon that will be my tow rig for camping season. My engine will _"never"_ 👀👌rev above 4,800 rpm. I just want massive low end torque and super easy cruising w/a 4L60E. Gonna go watch the other videos on this build. Looks like a very sturdy build. God Bless you as well and Merry Christmas from Alaska🎅🎄❄️
Full roller, 383 SBC, with Afr 195 Heads, ported Vic Jr ,750 VS Carb,Mike Jones HYD Rol Cam . Got it running right after some carb jetting and man I am impressed. Way too much fun on the street.
You have to check piston to deck height then you can figure out your quench. it is so important to figure out the quench or you won't get proper combustion burn in the Chamber leads to lack of horsepower. you can get a tool for checking piston to deck height clearance. First you want to check piston 2 deck height first and then check valve to piston relief clearance that were cut into your flat top pistons. now there is a gap from 45 thousands of an inch minimum to 60 thousands of an inch Max. That where you want to be. I had mine set at clearance 45 thousands of an inch and I still had enough valve relief from piston to valve clearance and you can check valve clearance to piston with modelers clay. Some people run a wider Gap 4 quench is that some people that they're afraid something will go wrong or piston will hit the bottom of the head or not enough valve clearance which will call damage. I personally like the tolerances as close as possible. Awesome videos thanks for sharing God bless brother
WOW !!!! I AM SO IMPRESSED!!!! You covered everything!!!!! This motor will last a million miles or more. It will be a strong contender on the street. Thanks for sharing!!! I learned so much.
I bought a 383 stroker from Smeding Performance in San Antonio, Texas. All in it was a little over 7k. Worth every penny. I asked that he leave everything on the engine. All I had to do was put fuel and a battery to it, fired right up. 480 hp and 460 tq. 3 year warranty unlimited mileage. I will build my next 383 like you are. I’ll get satisfaction out building it myself.
What part of Ohio are you in from? I grew up in a small town about 45 miles north west of Dayton called West Milton. I’ve got a brother that lives over outside of Columbus yet. We were always building stuff growing up but could never build what we wanted, so I think we all are trying to get this same project done finally before we run out of time. We are about the same age as well, my god how the time has flown!! Awesome video!! Don’t worry about what guys say about the machine work being too much!! That is the one place you don’t cheap out on!! My experience is that machine shop prices are all over the place and never ever go with the lower price guys, it will cost you tenfold In the end! Every machine shop will always say they are the best, just ask em and they Will tell ya! Good luck brother and stay safe out there!!
I am centrally located between Cinci, Dayton, and Columbus. About 1 hour from each. We have some Pfeiffer's locally. I'm not sure how common the name is? Thanks for watching and the encouragement. God Bless.
Many a hand had an engine built and was less that satisfied …….. I applaud your efforts. Many a time my Dad would look over my shoulder and ask what the Micrometer or dial caliper said. He maintained up till he couldn’t walk to the shop that it’s most important to ck & ck your work. Things like parts being clean and covered with towels were important also. Yep y’all did good 👍
Thanks I appreciate it. My dad didn't have any interest in cars or engines but we did share an interest in horses and rodeo which I am thankful for. I have a complete series on the engine build if you are interested right up to the first run and cam break in. Thanks for watching. ua-cam.com/play/PL0QAy8hIWcxtTogpC73SCJRsQck5hlpCW.html
Regardless if you are building a mild street 350 or a full tilt 383....when you build as much as you can yourself...when you sweat all the details....you learn a ton of real world experience....plus when you fire it up, install it in your ride, then put the pedal down...you can't beat the thrill of accomplishment you get...hand down!
With this being my first build, I didn't have the confidence to try. I ended up with plenty of valve to piston clearance though so maybe next time... Thanks for watching.
Thank you. The engine is done and has had the first run and cam break in, I hope to dyno it and get some tuning done before it goes in the car. Here is a link to the engine build playlist. Thanks for watching and God Bless! ua-cam.com/play/PL0QAy8hIWcxtTogpC73SCJRsQck5hlpCW.html
Thanks. The car should have been done already but I'm slow now that I'm older. I hope to get back on it this winter. Thanks for watching and commenting.
I'm about to start an a sbc stroker for an old 68 Camaro for the wife. Really want to go with a 396 kit. But dang it's pricey. Will probably do a 010 over bor with the 400 crank it'll be a 380. Or it's already bored 030 in going 060 for a 388. 10.1 compression a cheap circle track cam and some old double humps. 400 hp on pump gas. Plenty of tourqe. Good luck with your build.
Thanks. My engine is built and the cam break in video is up. I'm working on the 1976 Nova that it's going to set in. Good luck with yours as well. I had a 68 Camaro almost 40 years ago. Wish I had it back in the same condition I sold it. Would be worth a fortune now.
Good video. What I will say is price will very from machine shop to machine shop. The one where I live will clean, check, and stroks a 350 block for just under 500 for me. 800ish normally.
Great job I did something similar 15 years ago cost me about $5k then but I only did the assembly work. Made one mistake used original push rod on summit RPM heads. I ate the pushrod after about 5k miles.
Yes. The cost of everything goes up much faster than my wages... And my energy and motivation goes down as I get older. I thought I would be driving this by now but it sits covered up while I slowly work on the Nova. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Thanks for the very informative video! I think you touched on some very important details of your build and went the extra mile to make sure it's capable of doing what you want. Also love the fact that you built it your way instead of compromising and just buying an already built motor. What trans and rear end gear are you planning on for your Nova? I'm guessing you're going to run it down the quarter when it's done if you haven't already. What ET's are you expecting? Good luck with the rest of your build- great job!
Thanks for watching! I'm still deciding on trans. Original intention was a 700r4 for highway cruising but I have been thinking about going with a powerglide also. I will have to make a decision soon. Hope to start and break in the engine soon. It's on a run stand now and I am wiring it. I do intend to run it at the track. Local is just an eighth but about an hour and a half away is a quarter mile track. I will run it naturally aspirated first and then plan to add NOS. My goal is a 10.5 or better. Rear diff will either be a Ford 8.8" or 9". 3:73 gears is the plan. Thanks again.
2Old2Rodeo- sounds like a good plan with the 700r4. I have a 72 Nova and I have similar plans for motor/trans combo. Don't forget, the 200r4 is just as stout, larger input shaft, more available and the same length as a TH 350. Also has simpler electronics with the same aftermarket support. You might be happier with the extra gears,(especially the overdrive) over the power glide. Can't wait to hear your progress! I'm tuned in- thanks for the info.
Nice!! This is what it really costs!! Maybe some cheap mail order stuff is less but it will not have the quality of machining, docs and attention to detail yours does. Its worth it in the long run! Id run 4.11 700r and a good 2800-3000 lock up converter it will be perfect
Thanks. The project is moving a lot slower than I had planned but still moving at least. I have 4:10 gears and an Eaton TruTrac for the Ford 8.8 I cut down. 700R4 has always been the plan althoug for a while I thought about putting a manual in the car. Thanks for the info on the converter. I still feel pretty dumb on the subject but I'm learning. Thanks for watching and commenting.
The block has some interesting casting numbers, it has 010/020 I have one of these engines in the shed. I was told it came out of a 1970 Z28 Camaro It still has the original camel back heads. My mechanic advised me to go with alloy AFR heads, the previous owner didn't know what the bore size is. The mechanic told me not to worry too much about the bore size because these 010/020 blocks have extra thick cylinder walls so even if the bore is at +60 thou it will still have enough meat left on it to hone or bore if necessary. I'm not sure which way to go with the heads or if I can stroke the 350 to 383 if it turns out have a +60 thou bore.
I hadn't heard that. I had heard that there is more than one version of the 010 block and some are thinner castings than others. Good luck with your build.
Nice build. I went with an Eagle rotating assembly. I had vortecs off of a 305 I built(yeah I built what I had at the time). I bought an 88 Vette and decided to go with a 383. I live in Chicago and got quoted $175 for hot tank and bore. I'm probably going to not get it mangnafluxed or decked because the car runs great right now. I will let them clearance the block. I was also quoted $175 for them to race balance my balanced assembly(to make sure everything is up to snuff). I'll ask about crank polishing. Markham Cycle in Markham Illinois. The guy who recommended them(not as booked up) also recommended Auto Value in Hammond Indiana.
Hi, thanks for your great build cost clip! Building a 383 vortec small myself, keen to know which machine shop you used for stroker crank clearance machining? Thanks a nifty mark out jig shown? Thanks, Peter
@@2old2rodeo Lol! Details, Sir. I like the fact that you’re going to paint before you put in the freeze plugs. And I can bet they’ll be polished. A great detail that sets it apart from the 100 other motors that come down the line. Well done!
@@2old2rodeo Sorry to bug you again, but you know damn well that nobody will ever see them. However...it’s those small details that make what you do yours, and nobody else’s. I have a 1954 pan/shovel that has those little things done that don’t make a shit to anyone but me. I look for them on other bikes, and never see them. Does it make mine any better? It does to me, and that’s what sets me my bike apart from somebody elses. It’s in the deets!! Have a great day, Sir!
You did your 383 right but I usually build a '96 and up Vortec 5.7 instead I normally like to upgrade the factory roller cam, valve springs, port the heads and run a good air gap intake They usually cost me less than $1000 to build including the cost of the Pull and Save junkyard engine With the right cam, gears and converter they'll smoke most cars on the street and live forever with metric piston rings Of course I do all of my own machine work and have no problems with used parts
This was a learning experience for me. I would definitely go with a roller block next time as well as several other changes. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Put the freeze plugs in the deep freeze for about 1 hr. And the freeze plugs will almost go all the way thru. When I put them in I used alien tape and a stick to hold the plug in place while it heats up and sets. There no hammer marks. But that's just me
Check out my video on the compression ratio calculator spreadsheet and let me know what you think. I can get mine down to 10.7 static and 10.1 dynamic with a little thicker head gasket than I originally intended. I believe I can run pump gas at those ratios as long as I watch my timing. I will use octane booster if necessary. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Maybe these guys are "high end". I probably should have skipped the pressure test and the clearance work. I could have done the clearance work myself and I was fairly confidant the block was good but didn't want to risk there being a problem since I was spending so much anyway. It's that old "Do you want fries with that?" and a $1.75 for a drink. Adds up fast.... Thanks for watching.
@@2old2rodeo nah, pressure testing is great idea and I perform this test after clearancing to ensure no breakthroughs. They do charge a bit more than shops around here.
Geez thats what i was thinking, I purposely read these comments to see if somebody touched on those prices or if i was loosing my mind. I live in north AL and we have several great machine shops within an hr drive but none come close to those prices. Almost feel like that shop was gouging a little bit.
@@stevenbelue5496 Maybe. They have a price list and the prices they charged me are what is shown on their list but I suspect those who know better get a substantial discount. When I was calling around for pricing, everyone's canned response was "I hope you're not in a hurry". Some of their services are so expensive that it makes buying new very attractive. Grinding cranks, reconditioning rods, etc. They also push really hard letting them do all the assembly. Possibly the are just charging what the market in this area will bear. Thanks for watching and commenting.
That is some pricey machine work ! Probably good work tho. The last block I had bored decked cleaned freeze plugs and cam bearings was 350$. That was about a year ago
I was thinking about doing a similar combination, but I don't think I will have enough money. I still haven't tore my engine down see what it looks like inside, and now I am almost afraid to. Keep up the good work. Your videos are great. I am eager to see the engine go together and here it run. As far as head gaskets go, were you looking at composite or MLS?
I was a bit naive going into the engine build. I've only done a refresh in the past but I wanted to do something different on this one. My last hurrah maybe. ;-) That's part of the reason I wanted to give out all the price info. By the time I figured out what it was going to cost, I was too deep into it not to finish. If I had it to do over, I would buy the block already machined from Summit, I would still do the race balance and crank polish but would probably go with a cast crank to save money and not do the other upgrades. Basically I went all out on this one, but I only intend to do it once and I hope to have bullet proof engine when I'm done. Whether it runs 10's or 20's, it will be what I built. I like the built not bought concept. Planning on MLS gaskets, I didn't explain why I was waiting to order them very well. I am shooting for a .040 quench area so I need to know how far down i the hole the pistons are to determine the correct compressed gasket thickness. Thanks for watching and commenting. God Bless.
it absolute does not cost this much to build a 383 U can build one top to bottom with a bare block, oil pan to vortec heads to carb making about 500hp crank for like 2000 in the vehicle and running, look for deals, facebook marketplace is Ur friend, check out AT Racing World on EBAY...great store for discounted SBC parts, I scored a pair of Vortec 062 heads from facebook for 45 bucks, just look around, be patient
@@Bossman_71 get a pair of 062 or 906 casting number vortec heads, the highest flowing you can get before going to an aftermarket...if you port the bowls, plenty of quality videos to DIY a simple port job , polish the exhaust and gasket match the opening to the intake you are looking at a 50-75hp gain from the heads alone, if you just get heads and slap them on bone stock Ur looking at 35-50hp gains, boomers sell them for like 400 bucks a set but I picked up a 906 head for 30 and pulled the other from a pick and pull for like 40 I think, they come on any 96-99 GMC/Chevrolet with a 5.7L 350
@@wesulf7517 I will be buying mine for $100 with the valves if they pass the crack check test this week from the machine shop. I have read that these heads do respond well with mild porting on the exhaust side , also running a dual pattern cam to boot. For my build; Vortec heads, a cam with around 224 232 duration at.50 lift and under .500 valve lift on both sides, slight dish piston with hopefully no more than 9.5 compression with a .40 over bore on the one piece rear main seal block. Hoping for 400 to 425hp and 450 to 480lbs ft torque, of course with that small of a cam and low compression I maybe just dreaming. Engine will be going into a 1991 Z28 with a 700r4 , no more that 3.73 gears posi unit. I still want to run all of my power accessories and the AC too. Wish me luck!!
Stroker is the "only" way to go. Each to his own on all my points of interest and concerns. Why no Crane cam and Harland Sharp roller rockers? The Vortec heads have a considerable restriction on what intakes will work even though 400's ran (run) their best volumetric efficiency with them bc they facilitate such a drastic unshrouding of the intake valves. You mentioned your crank having 350-sized main journals must be why you mentioned King bearings? Good choice on the Clevite models bc they have been winning races since B4 King was even thought of. Your .200 gain on the 350 journal crank is primarily less surface feet per second and a bit less rotational mass. Lastly these blocks scare me enough just being 2 bolts due to how the hole is already a through-hole by the undercut in the main bearing web area. A better idea would be to splay the outer bolts on a factory 2-bolt block. I have a '70 Warranty Replacement 2-bolt 3951511 block that needs to get back on the street.
Make sure you check the ring gap for the piston rings, they are usually not correct from factory, also check everything never trust someone else work especially when you are building it urself cause it is not warranted by anyone other than urself
Thanks. I agree and I did. There is a complete series on this engine build if you are interested. First run and cam break in are done. ua-cam.com/play/PL0QAy8hIWcxtTogpC73SCJRsQck5hlpCW.html
This started out to be a 355 build, mostly stock, and the Vortec heads were the first upgrade. I found the original set locally and originally planned to do some of the mods myself. Then I decided I wanted to build a 383 stroker... and things kind of snowballed from there. If I had it to do over, I would go with a better set of heads, roller cam, etc. As a matter of fact, if I were to do it over I would probably start with a 400 block. Thanks for watching.
@@2old2rodeo well you did a great job either way. I am partial to sbc 400s I have 7 of them in my fleet or projects.lol.one in my thumbnail is a 511 2 bolt splayed 400 full block filled fully forged and RHS 235s and a 94mm turbo. Keep hot rodding love the build
Looks like a great build, hope it makes lots of power. However, what possessed you to spend $1500 on Vortec heads? You could have had a great set of aluminum heads that would make more power for less. But to each his own.
I bought the heads first, was going to build a mild 355. Learned about Votec heads and a shop that specialized in cast heads for racing. It kinda snowballed from there. If I had it to do over, a lot of things would be different. I've learned a lot going through the process. I'm sure I have a lot more to learn. Thanks for watching and commenting.
@@2old2rodeo oh, that’s the gotcha. I am in the same boat. I bought the heads for a project, still haven’t gotten to the project. Now there are better options. Hope yours runs great!
Here is a link. Looks like they are out of stock but expected to ship the end of April 2021. I sent an email asking about price and availability. I will update when they get back to me. Thanks and good luck to you. www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-150100-30
Joaquin Pasillas Here is the reply from Summit Racing. I'm sorry, but that block is no longer available. I'm not 100% sure why, but the "estimated ship date" is definitely not accurate. I have a feeling we sold all those blocks we had in stock and we haven't been able to source anymore due to the pandemic situation. That block may be available again in the future. However, I don't know if or when that will be. I apologize for the confusion. We appreciate your business Thank you, Summit Racing Equipment
That was homemade by the machine shop. I would like to have one also. Let me know if you find one. I may ask the machine shop to make me one if I ever do another stroker.
a lot of the capable shops are cnc'ing stroker clearances. back in the day obviously it was the "ghetto grind" until you had enough clearance. i trust the machine more than me IF its programmed correctly
@@KingJT80 Well if you got the tools and doing strokers on a regular clip that makes perfect sense. I've asked around a little about this and got just dumb stares.Ghetto grind it is.
They have these as crate motors they don't come with headers though headers are bought separate transmission is also separately bought. The motor is about 7500$
Not really. The original block I started with was supposed to out of a 1972 Suburban. Then I had a chance to pick this one up cheap that was in better condition and already torn down (no ring ridge, less wear, etc.). It has the same casting number 010. I'll try to upload some pictures of the casting numbers. If you can determine anything from them, I'd be interested in knowing what they mean. I just haven't taken the time to research them.
What area are you in? I kind of went into this blind, not knowing what the costs were. It may be I paid more than I should have because I didn't know any better. They do have published price lists but who's to say they don't discount for those in the know. On some other videos I talk about the "education expense" and I'm surely learning and paying for the education.. Thanks for watching.
2Old2Rodeo probably just different prices for different areas. I’m in NE Arkansas. Now my shop is by no means a race shop but they do good work. Enjoyed the video!
That was in January of 2020. Summit Racing. There is a link in the video description. I'm not sure when they sold out but they have never been back since. Thanks for watching.
I called Summit Racing and the guy on the phone help me. The bore on this is a little larger than I would have liked but it was what they had in stock. www.summitracing.com/parts/CGT-C5474-040
i would rather build a long rod 400, never liked the 383. I've had great luck with 400. no replacement for displacement. great choice for rods and pistons. want to play you got to pay. and buying someone else's problem is no fun either. now you know whats in it and will know it's limmits. have fun with it, should run good.
No. It was a re-manufactured bare block that was available at the time I made the video. I was able to price it online including shipping at the time. It has not been available for quite a while. www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-150100-30/make/chevrolet
@@2old2rodeo when you take it to the track I would love to see a video of it.. By the way when you build the 383 stroker did you have a solid cam you put in it or was it hydraulic?
@@WalterBarger-io9ck I went with a hydraulic flat tappet. This was my first build so I was thinking about valve lash and trying to keep it simple. If I had it to do over again, I would change a lot of things but it was a learning experience. It will be a while before I get to the track. I haven't worked on the car in months due to fighting some health issues and also due to some remodeling on the house. I hope to get back to it soon. Thank you for the interest and kind words. Jeff
I'm not sure I understand what you mean by "core shift" and being off? The block was pressure tested by the machine shop. I'm not sure exactly how that process works.
@@chrisd078 You can still find a used block and have it machined. It would be hard to believe machining cost have gone up much during this as it is primarily labor and I'm guessing fewer people are building right now... just a guess though.
Steve from Annapolis I just had one comment about connecting rods did you do your research should have used the 5.7 connecting rods 6-in rods can be trouble your application is of RPM
I did. From sources I trust, I heard they make more power, they cause detonation, and they make no difference at all. Too late now. The engine is together and will be starting for break in soon. Thanks for watching.
The guy that owns/runs it is a member of speedtalk.com. he has great reviews, very accurate, extremely professional. FWIW, you could have got a dart shp block finished to your specs for about 1900.
I'm not familiar with it but I will research it. I started with what I had. Originally going to be a stock build with vortec heads and then I decided to push it a little further... Thanks for watching.
My goal is 450 HP and 425 Ft Lbs of torque naturally aspirated. I think that is pretty realistic from all my research. After breaking it in and getting things sorted, I plan a 200 to 300 shot of Nitrous in two stages. Thanks for watching.
@@2old2rodeo Your torque should be higher, more like 460 to 475 @ about 4,500. Your hp should be about 430 to 450 @ about 5,400 . Just depends on how well they ported the heads. Some people are magicians with porting heads, others can ruin them.
Yeah. Everything has gotten out of sight. I thought I was spending too much at the time. Now it just looks like I'm taking too long putting the car back together. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Maybe do skip white next time By or you a short block like that clearanced balanced less than 3k probably to your door heard nothing but good thing ngs about them
My rotating assembly was from Skip White. I wanted to do the work myself for the learning experience but I think you are right, a guy could probably save time and money buying a short block.
Why spend the money on the forged bottom end , just to run a flat tappet cam and vortec heads , gotta go big and get some man heads and roller cam for that price , must be his first build
Just to elaborate, I got the heads first, the cam next and the build was originally going to be a mild 355 build. The I decided I wanted to do a stroker. It just kind of snowballed from there. There isn't any reason I can't upgrade the heads and cam in the future. Wasted some money? Sure, but I chalk that up as an education expense. I've learned a lot going through this process.
A friend of mine tried hard to convince me to go big block but small blocks are what I had as a kid. I could have had a much cheaper small block but I'm finally able to build the engine/car I wanted as a kid but couldn't afford. At least I'm putting the money into machining and forged/balanced internals and not into "Bling". Thanks for watching.
@@2old2rodeo bud, that's all that matters. I love the small blocks too as I have a 383 and well. Its unreal what kind of power can be made from the Chevy 350 engine which in my opinion is the best engine Chevy ever made along side the 400ci. Happy building my friend. I will subscribe. God bless my friend
Yea. I would do a lot of things differently if I were doing it over. This was my first build. Originally intended to be a mild 355 build and then it kinda spiraled out of control... Thanks for watching and commenting.
I'm blessed to be able to build what I wanted as a teenager but couldn't afford. It's not going to set any world records but I am enjoying the journey.
I wish I had. I didn't know about it when I took my block to the machine shop. I'm also wondering if I should have skipped the pressure test and cleaning. I could have done the clearance work myself, Those 3 items would save a bunch of money.Thanks for watching.
@@yourmom705 The Dart block will cost a lot more than machining your old block. If you know your block is good, you could skip the pressure test, clean it yourself, clearance it yourself. Bore and Hone is $360 at my local shop and square decking is $250 so you can do it for less and you might find your local shop to be cheaper. I've had a couple of guys tell me shops in my area are expensive. Also going with an externally balanced assembly will save some money. With a 200 shot, watch your ring end gap and make sure you have the right piston material. That is why I went with an all forged assembly. I'm planning on a 200-250 shot as well. This is the guy I follow to learn. ua-cam.com/video/oL7tcTlzCt8/v-deo.html
You over paid😂 like by a lot. But your old as dirt so you cant do the cleaning and machining yourself. You need to make friends with people who do transmissions. They have machines that can clean very well. Buddy didn't change me a dime. Its about networking and making friends that will help you along the way. Spent 700 on my 383. My machined and honed the engine myself as well as rebuilding the carbs. Im pushing 510 horse power naturally aspirated.
"OLD SCHOOL" means no common core math was involved in the making of this engine, so it all adds up and is correct.
👍
Correct. Over cammed, and a shit load of gas. It’ll run like a stripe-ed ass ape!
Very good video,i love the fact that you broke it all down as to cost of each item,wish everyone did this
Thanks. I'm getting close to first start. After that I intend to follow-up with the rest and maybe even a pdf of every item with part numbers and costs.
Steve from Annapolis have fun very thorough about your project keep up the good work you'll have fun especially when it's completed it's very rewarding
Thanks 👍
buddy im 52 years old and i still get the same feeling every time i build a engine as i did when i was 15 the first time i heard a engine i built run. nice engine by the way. thanks for ur time making the video.
Thanks Charles for watching and commenting. There is a complete series on the build here ua-cam.com/play/PL0QAy8hIWcxtTogpC73SCJRsQck5hlpCW.html
I didn't understand the choice of cam until I saw the Vortec heads. I hope you enjoy your project and are happy with the outcome. Keep us posted.
Mike, This is my first real build. Started off to be a mild 355 and then snowballed. I got the heads first and then the cam before I started on the block. It'll be fine for an old man. I'm not out to set any records. Just building the hot rod I wanted as a kid. Maybe someday it will get upgraded. Thanks for watching and commenting. Merry Christmas.
Better to be able to say built, not bought. The satisfaction is a much greater feeling when it’s all said and done. I’m building an 91 camaro rs and I’m working on putting together a badass 383 right now. You’ve given me some things to think about. Thanks
Thanks for watching and good luck with your build.
It’s great to see you are dedicated to a comprehensive and well thought out build. Your choices like the higher race spec balancing, crank polishing, and the fluid damper. Show you have a good understanding of engine building.
I definitely have a better understanding now than I did when I started. Thanks for watching.
@@2old2rodeowhere did you purchase the rotating assembly from ?
@@tyresebrooks-frazier2501 Skip White Performance - Kingsport, TN skipwhiteperformance.com/catalog/category/rotating-assemblies/sbc-383-assemblies_7738/
Not everyone can rebuild and build engines. Kudos to you sir.
Thanks. I think I understand what you mean. If you don't have the tools, time, or a place to work, I agree. If it's the "how to" knowledge, that can be obtained. Especially today with the internet. I think we often limit ourselves out of fear of making a mistake, Also fear is used to sell us the idea that we need to pay someone to do it for us. Thanks for watching.
I like how you were obviously careful in your parts selection and what you had done to the block. I agree with others that this engine will last forever. I hope you have videos to see how the engine turned out as finished. I also love how you answer every comment. Nice.
Thank You! There is a complete series on the engine build including the recent First Run and Cam break in video. Working now on the Nova that will be the home for the engine.
Watching this on Christmas day, 2021. I'm doing 'research on a 383 build for a large old '70s station wagon that will be my tow rig for camping season. My engine will _"never"_ 👀👌rev above 4,800 rpm. I just want massive low end torque and super easy cruising w/a 4L60E. Gonna go watch the other videos on this build. Looks like a very sturdy build.
God Bless you as well and Merry Christmas from Alaska🎅🎄❄️
Merry Christmas. Best of luck with your build. Jeff
Full roller, 383 SBC, with Afr 195 Heads, ported Vic Jr ,750 VS Carb,Mike Jones HYD Rol Cam . Got it running right after some carb jetting and man I am impressed. Way too much fun on the street.
That sounds like a NICE setup! If I had it to do over, I would go more in the direction you did. Thanks.
Thats a beauty. Keep up the good work.
Thank You!
You have to check piston to deck height then you can figure out your quench. it is so important to figure out the quench or you won't get proper combustion burn in the Chamber leads to lack of horsepower. you can get a tool for checking piston to deck height clearance. First you want to check piston 2 deck height first and then check valve to piston relief clearance that were cut into your flat top pistons. now there is a gap from 45 thousands of an inch minimum to 60 thousands of an inch Max. That where you want to be. I had mine set at clearance 45 thousands of an inch and I still had enough valve relief from piston to valve clearance and you can check valve clearance to piston with modelers clay. Some people run a wider Gap 4 quench is that some people that they're afraid something will go wrong or piston will hit the bottom of the head or not enough valve clearance which will call damage. I personally like the tolerances as close as possible. Awesome videos thanks for sharing God bless brother
Good job with the parts selection. Keep up the good work. That engine should run smoothly and create workable horsepower! See ya.
Thanks for watching and commenting.
son of a diddly im thinking of building my chevy.... I really appreciate this video
Thanks for watching. Good luck with your build.
WOW !!!! I AM SO IMPRESSED!!!! You covered everything!!!!! This motor will last a million miles or more. It will be a strong contender on the street. Thanks for sharing!!! I learned so much.
Thank you!
GOOD LOOKING CLEAN WATERWAYS IN YOUR BLOCK.. HOPE IT ALL GOES WELL FOR YOU..
Thanks 👍
I bought a 383 stroker from Smeding Performance in San Antonio, Texas. All in it was a little over 7k. Worth every penny. I asked that he leave everything on the engine. All I had to do was put fuel and a battery to it, fired right up. 480 hp and 460 tq. 3 year warranty unlimited mileage. I will build my next 383 like you are. I’ll get satisfaction out building it myself.
Thanks for watching and commenting. I'm learning a lot and enjoying every minute of it. Good luck with your build.
So that would cost me 12k.here in australia 🌏 cost 6k for stock build
What part of Ohio are you in from? I grew up in a small town about 45 miles north west of Dayton called West Milton. I’ve got a brother that lives over outside of Columbus yet. We were always building stuff growing up but could never build what we wanted, so I think we all are trying to get this same project done finally before we run out of time. We are about the same age as well, my god how the time has flown!!
Awesome video!! Don’t worry about what guys say about the machine work being too much!! That is the one place you don’t cheap out on!! My experience is that machine shop prices are all over the place and never ever go with the lower price guys, it will cost you tenfold In the end! Every machine shop will always say they are the best, just ask em and they Will tell ya!
Good luck brother and stay safe out there!!
I am centrally located between Cinci, Dayton, and Columbus. About 1 hour from each. We have some Pfeiffer's locally. I'm not sure how common the name is? Thanks for watching and the encouragement. God Bless.
Many a hand had an engine built and was less that satisfied …….. I applaud your efforts. Many a time my Dad would look over my shoulder and ask what the Micrometer or dial caliper said. He maintained up till he couldn’t walk to the shop that it’s most important to ck & ck your work. Things like parts being clean and covered with towels were important also. Yep y’all did good 👍
Thanks I appreciate it. My dad didn't have any interest in cars or engines but we did share an interest in horses and rodeo which I am thankful for. I have a complete series on the engine build if you are interested right up to the first run and cam break in. Thanks for watching. ua-cam.com/play/PL0QAy8hIWcxtTogpC73SCJRsQck5hlpCW.html
Please subscribe if you haven't already. I'd really like to get to that 1000 subscriber mark. Thanks again.
Regardless if you are building a mild street 350 or a full tilt 383....when you build as much as you can yourself...when you sweat all the details....you learn a ton of real world experience....plus when you fire it up, install it in your ride, then put the pedal down...you can't beat the thrill of accomplishment you get...hand down!
Thanks mike f.
Great video!!
You are right about the weather in Ohio. I am trying to get one of my cars ready THIS year as Quaker will open and I still will not be ready.
👍
Every engine I built has the pistons .005 out of the block. Closing it the quench area really helps make good power. And never had any issues.
With this being my first build, I didn't have the confidence to try. I ended up with plenty of valve to piston clearance though so maybe next time... Thanks for watching.
GREAT VIDEO! TON OF VALUABLE INFORMATION! LOVE TO SEE THIS MOTOR PURR LIKE A ROLEX WHEN YOU ALL DONE! NEW SUB. ALWAYS THUMBS UP! GOD'S BLESSINGS.
Thank you. The engine is done and has had the first run and cam break in, I hope to dyno it and get some tuning done before it goes in the car. Here is a link to the engine build playlist. Thanks for watching and God Bless! ua-cam.com/play/PL0QAy8hIWcxtTogpC73SCJRsQck5hlpCW.html
Hope you get it all installed and lets see the finished car.. 👍🏻
Thanks. The car should have been done already but I'm slow now that I'm older. I hope to get back on it this winter. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Great video! Thanks!
Thank You for watching!
I'm about to start an a sbc stroker for an old 68 Camaro for the wife. Really want to go with a 396 kit. But dang it's pricey. Will probably do a 010 over bor with the 400 crank it'll be a 380. Or it's already bored 030 in going 060 for a 388. 10.1 compression a cheap circle track cam and some old double humps. 400 hp on pump gas. Plenty of tourqe. Good luck with your build.
Thanks. My engine is built and the cam break in video is up. I'm working on the 1976 Nova that it's going to set in. Good luck with yours as well. I had a 68 Camaro almost 40 years ago. Wish I had it back in the same condition I sold it. Would be worth a fortune now.
Good video. What I will say is price will very from machine shop to machine shop. The one where I live will clean, check, and stroks a 350 block for just under 500 for me. 800ish normally.
Thanks. I've been told my area is high...
Great video.
Thank you!
Thank you for the information
Thanks for watching!
Great job I did something similar 15 years ago cost me about $5k then but I only did the assembly work. Made one mistake used original push rod on summit RPM heads. I ate the pushrod after about 5k miles.
Ouch! Sorry that happened. I hope there wasn't too much damage.
Well, it’s been four years since you posted this video so you can add about 25% to what it cost you. Nice job thanks for the video!
Yes. The cost of everything goes up much faster than my wages... And my energy and motivation goes down as I get older. I thought I would be driving this by now but it sits covered up while I slowly work on the Nova. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Thanks for the very informative video! I think you touched on some very important details of your build and went the extra mile to make sure it's capable of doing what you want. Also love the fact that you built it your way instead of compromising and just buying an already built motor. What trans and rear end gear are you planning on for your Nova? I'm guessing you're going to run it down the quarter when it's done if you haven't already. What ET's are you expecting? Good luck with the rest of your build- great job!
Thanks for watching! I'm still deciding on trans. Original intention was a 700r4 for highway cruising but I have been thinking about going with a powerglide also. I will have to make a decision soon. Hope to start and break in the engine soon. It's on a run stand now and I am wiring it. I do intend to run it at the track. Local is just an eighth but about an hour and a half away is a quarter mile track. I will run it naturally aspirated first and then plan to add NOS. My goal is a 10.5 or better. Rear diff will either be a Ford 8.8" or 9". 3:73 gears is the plan. Thanks again.
2Old2Rodeo- sounds like a good plan with the 700r4. I have a 72 Nova and I have similar plans for motor/trans combo. Don't forget, the 200r4 is just as stout, larger input shaft, more available and the same length as a TH 350. Also has simpler electronics with the same aftermarket support. You might be happier with the extra gears,(especially the overdrive) over the power glide. Can't wait to hear your progress! I'm tuned in- thanks for the info.
Thanks for watching and commenting. Good luck with your build.
Nice!! This is what it really costs!!
Maybe some cheap mail order stuff is less but it will not have the quality of machining, docs and attention to detail yours does. Its worth it in the long run!
Id run 4.11 700r and a good 2800-3000 lock up converter it will be perfect
Thanks. The project is moving a lot slower than I had planned but still moving at least. I have 4:10 gears and an Eaton TruTrac for the Ford 8.8 I cut down. 700R4 has always been the plan althoug for a while I thought about putting a manual in the car. Thanks for the info on the converter. I still feel pretty dumb on the subject but I'm learning. Thanks for watching and commenting.
I built a similar engine but used callies rotating assembly and it made 603 horsepower with 11/1 pistons!
WOW! That's impressive. Can I ask what heads and cam you went with?
The block has some interesting casting numbers, it has 010/020 I have one of these engines in the shed. I was told it came out of a 1970 Z28 Camaro It still has the original camel back heads.
My mechanic advised me to go with alloy AFR heads, the previous owner didn't know what the bore size is. The mechanic told me not to worry too much about the bore size because these 010/020 blocks have extra thick cylinder walls so even if the bore is at +60 thou it will still have enough meat left on it to hone or bore if necessary.
I'm not sure which way to go with the heads or if I can stroke the 350 to 383 if it turns out have a +60 thou bore.
I hadn't heard that. I had heard that there is more than one version of the 010 block and some are thinner castings than others. Good luck with your build.
I know this is an old thread, but Smokey yunick said those 010 blocks had a higher nickel content making it stronger
Nice build. I went with an Eagle rotating assembly. I had vortecs off of a 305 I built(yeah I built what I had at the time). I bought an 88 Vette and decided to go with a 383. I live in Chicago and got quoted $175 for hot tank and bore. I'm probably going to not get it mangnafluxed or decked because the car runs great right now. I will let them clearance the block. I was also quoted $175 for them to race balance my balanced assembly(to make sure everything is up to snuff). I'll ask about crank polishing. Markham Cycle in Markham Illinois. The guy who recommended them(not as booked up) also recommended Auto Value in Hammond Indiana.
Thanks for watching and commenting. Good luck with your build.
I would deck it for sure! They are off from the factory..with the head gaskets those L98s had it will only help
Hi, thanks for your great build cost clip!
Building a 383 vortec small myself, keen to know which machine shop you used for stroker crank clearance machining?
Thanks a nifty mark out jig shown?
Thanks,
Peter
Zajbel Machine and Welding, Xenia, OH facebook.com/zajbelmachiningandwelding/
I run all my engines where pistons run .005 out of the block. For real close up that quench area. Mo power.
👍
Damn good video and explaining
Thanks. I will check out your videos...
Thank you really appreciate it.
Great video! We think alike!
Thank you!
Looks like fun. Good luck.
Thanks for watching and commenting.
It’s all in the deets, sir!
Thanks, I think...
@@2old2rodeo Lol! Details, Sir. I like the fact that you’re going to paint before you put in the freeze plugs. And I can bet they’ll be polished. A great detail that sets it apart from the 100 other motors that come down the line. Well done!
@@gungunggadung6792 Thank you! There is a complete series on the engine build, including first run to break in the cam. Thanks for watching.
@@2old2rodeo Sorry to bug you again, but you know damn well that nobody will ever see them. However...it’s those small details that make what you do yours, and nobody else’s. I have a 1954 pan/shovel that has those little things done that don’t make a shit to anyone but me. I look for them on other bikes, and never see them. Does it make mine any better? It does to me, and that’s what sets me my bike apart from somebody elses. It’s in the deets!! Have a great day, Sir!
@@gungunggadung6792 It's good to know there is someone out there who thinks like I do. You have a great day as well.
You did your 383 right but I usually build a '96 and up Vortec 5.7 instead
I normally like to upgrade the factory roller cam, valve springs, port the heads and run a good air gap intake
They usually cost me less than $1000 to build including the cost of the Pull and Save junkyard engine
With the right cam, gears and converter they'll smoke most cars on the street and live forever with metric piston rings
Of course I do all of my own machine work and have no problems with used parts
This was a learning experience for me. I would definitely go with a roller block next time as well as several other changes. Thanks for watching and commenting.
I subscribed to your channel. Thanks.
👍 outstanding!!
Thanks for watching!
Put the freeze plugs in the deep freeze for about 1 hr. And the freeze plugs will almost go all the way thru. When I put them in I used alien tape and a stick to hold the plug in place while it heats up and sets. There no hammer marks. But that's just me
Thanks for watching.
I was gonna build my 383 like that but I’m scared of detonation. I may run 4 valve flattops in it from icon
Check out my video on the compression ratio calculator spreadsheet and let me know what you think. I can get mine down to 10.7 static and 10.1 dynamic with a little thicker head gasket than I originally intended. I believe I can run pump gas at those ratios as long as I watch my timing. I will use octane booster if necessary. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Hit it right on the money with that last comment, Do what you love , Yes Sir
Holy cow! That's a high end machine shop price. I can get a 15liter Caterpillar block fully reconditioned for 1500!
Maybe these guys are "high end". I probably should have skipped the pressure test and the clearance work. I could have done the clearance work myself and I was fairly confidant the block was good but didn't want to risk there being a problem since I was spending so much anyway. It's that old "Do you want fries with that?" and a $1.75 for a drink. Adds up fast.... Thanks for watching.
@@2old2rodeo nah, pressure testing is great idea and I perform this test after clearancing to ensure no breakthroughs. They do charge a bit more than shops around here.
@@whiplashmachine Thanks!
Geez thats what i was thinking, I purposely read these comments to see if somebody touched on those prices or if i was loosing my mind. I live in north AL and we have several great machine shops within an hr drive but none come close to those prices. Almost feel like that shop was gouging a little bit.
@@stevenbelue5496 Maybe. They have a price list and the prices they charged me are what is shown on their list but I suspect those who know better get a substantial discount. When I was calling around for pricing, everyone's canned response was "I hope you're not in a hurry". Some of their services are so expensive that it makes buying new very attractive. Grinding cranks, reconditioning rods, etc. They also push really hard letting them do all the assembly. Possibly the are just charging what the market in this area will bear. Thanks for watching and commenting.
That is some pricey machine work ! Probably good work tho. The last block I had bored decked cleaned freeze plugs and cam bearings was 350$. That was about a year ago
I'm not sure where you are located but if I ever do this again, I might drive a bit. ;-) Thanks for watching and commenting.
Well that's more than it did 30 years ago.
Everything cost more than it did 30 years ago. ;-) Thanks for watching.
I was thinking about doing a similar combination, but I don't think I will have enough money. I still haven't tore my engine down see what it looks like inside, and now I am almost afraid to. Keep up the good work. Your videos are great. I am eager to see the engine go together and here it run. As far as head gaskets go, were you looking at composite or MLS?
I was a bit naive going into the engine build. I've only done a refresh in the past but I wanted to do something different on this one. My last hurrah maybe. ;-) That's part of the reason I wanted to give out all the price info. By the time I figured out what it was going to cost, I was too deep into it not to finish. If I had it to do over, I would buy the block already machined from Summit, I would still do the race balance and crank polish but would probably go with a cast crank to save money and not do the other upgrades. Basically I went all out on this one, but I only intend to do it once and I hope to have bullet proof engine when I'm done. Whether it runs 10's or 20's, it will be what I built. I like the built not bought concept. Planning on MLS gaskets, I didn't explain why I was waiting to order them very well. I am shooting for a .040 quench area so I need to know how far down i the hole the pistons are to determine the correct compressed gasket thickness. Thanks for watching and commenting. God Bless.
it absolute does not cost this much to build a 383 U can build one top to bottom with a bare block, oil pan to vortec heads to carb making about 500hp crank for like 2000 in the vehicle and running, look for deals, facebook marketplace is Ur friend, check out AT Racing World on EBAY...great store for discounted SBC parts, I scored a pair of Vortec 062 heads from facebook for 45 bucks, just look around, be patient
@@wesulf7517 I have a set of the 609 heads will they work fine on a mild 383 you think ?
@@Bossman_71 get a pair of 062 or 906 casting number vortec heads, the highest flowing you can get before going to an aftermarket...if you port the bowls, plenty of quality videos to DIY a simple port job , polish the exhaust and gasket match the opening to the intake you are looking at a 50-75hp gain from the heads alone, if you just get heads and slap them on bone stock Ur looking at 35-50hp gains, boomers sell them for like 400 bucks a set but I picked up a 906 head for 30 and pulled the other from a pick and pull for like 40 I think, they come on any 96-99 GMC/Chevrolet with a 5.7L 350
@@wesulf7517 I will be buying mine for $100 with the valves if they pass the crack check test this week from the machine shop.
I have read that these heads do respond well with mild porting on the exhaust side , also running a dual pattern cam to boot.
For my build; Vortec heads, a cam with around 224 232 duration at.50 lift and under .500 valve lift on both sides, slight dish piston with hopefully no more than 9.5 compression with a .40 over bore on the one piece rear main seal block.
Hoping for 400 to 425hp and 450 to 480lbs ft torque, of course with that small of a cam and low compression I maybe just dreaming.
Engine will be going into a 1991 Z28 with a 700r4 , no more that 3.73 gears posi unit. I still want to run all of my power accessories and the AC too. Wish me luck!!
Stroker is the "only" way to go. Each to his own on all my points of interest and concerns. Why no Crane cam and Harland Sharp roller rockers? The Vortec heads have a considerable restriction on what intakes will work even though 400's ran (run) their best volumetric efficiency with them bc they facilitate such a drastic unshrouding of the intake valves. You mentioned your crank having 350-sized main journals must be why you mentioned King bearings? Good choice on the Clevite models bc they have been winning races since B4 King was even thought of. Your .200 gain on the 350 journal crank is primarily less surface feet per second and a bit less rotational mass. Lastly these blocks scare me enough just being 2 bolts due to how the hole is already a through-hole by the undercut in the main bearing web area. A better idea would be to splay the outer bolts on a factory 2-bolt block. I have a '70 Warranty Replacement 2-bolt 3951511 block that needs to get back on the street.
This is my first build. I'm still learning. I understood about half of what you typed. ;-) Thanks for watching and commenting.
Make sure you check the ring gap for the piston rings, they are usually not correct from factory, also check everything never trust someone else work especially when you are building it urself cause it is not warranted by anyone other than urself
Thanks. I agree and I did. There is a complete series on this engine build if you are interested. First run and cam break in are done. ua-cam.com/play/PL0QAy8hIWcxtTogpC73SCJRsQck5hlpCW.html
@@2old2rodeo cool thanks i will watch it thank you again for letting me know, I always like watching this stuff, including power nation its good too
@@billflk2364 Thanks for watching. If you haven't subscribed yet, please do so. I would really like to get to that 1000 subscriber mark.
This is a skip white rotating assembly right?
Yes sir, and I am very pleased with the package.
Hey what was the thought on using the old vortec iron heads. With all the options of great aluminum heads out there.
This started out to be a 355 build, mostly stock, and the Vortec heads were the first upgrade. I found the original set locally and originally planned to do some of the mods myself. Then I decided I wanted to build a 383 stroker... and things kind of snowballed from there. If I had it to do over, I would go with a better set of heads, roller cam, etc. As a matter of fact, if I were to do it over I would probably start with a 400 block. Thanks for watching.
@@2old2rodeo well you did a great job either way. I am partial to sbc 400s I have 7 of them in my fleet or projects.lol.one in my thumbnail is a 511 2 bolt splayed 400 full block filled fully forged and RHS 235s and a 94mm turbo. Keep hot rodding love the build
@@bevinsracing Thanks! I'm looking forward to stepping on the loud pedal.
with so many cheap aluminum heads like AFR newer enforcer budget line is a better chioce unless you already have the vortec heads
Looks like a great build, hope it makes lots of power. However, what possessed you to spend $1500 on Vortec heads? You could have had a great set of aluminum heads that would make more power for less. But to each his own.
I bought the heads first, was going to build a mild 355. Learned about Votec heads and a shop that specialized in cast heads for racing. It kinda snowballed from there. If I had it to do over, a lot of things would be different. I've learned a lot going through the process. I'm sure I have a lot more to learn. Thanks for watching and commenting.
@@2old2rodeo oh, that’s the gotcha. I am in the same boat. I bought the heads for a project, still haven’t gotten to the project. Now there are better options. Hope yours runs great!
Whats the part # of the bare block 383 from summit all i find is blocks for over 1300.
Here is a link. Looks like they are out of stock but expected to ship the end of April 2021. I sent an email asking about price and availability. I will update when they get back to me. Thanks and good luck to you. www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-150100-30
Joaquin Pasillas Here is the reply from Summit Racing.
I'm sorry, but that block is no longer available. I'm not 100% sure why, but the "estimated ship date" is definitely not accurate.
I have a feeling we sold all those blocks we had in stock and we haven't been able to source anymore due to the pandemic situation. That block may be available again in the future. However, I don't know if or when that will be.
I apologize for the confusion.
We appreciate your business
Thank you,
Summit Racing Equipment
What part of Ohio you from? I’m in the Hamilton area about to build a stroker to put in my 89 Camaro
Near I-71 and US-35. Good luck with your build.
that tool used to clearance the crank stroke in the block was interesting..is that a custom made tool or is it something available retail?
That was homemade by the machine shop. I would like to have one also. Let me know if you find one. I may ask the machine shop to make me one if I ever do another stroker.
a lot of the capable shops are cnc'ing stroker clearances. back in the day obviously it was the "ghetto grind" until you had enough clearance. i trust the machine more than me IF its programmed correctly
@@KingJT80 Well if you got the tools and doing strokers on a regular clip that makes perfect sense. I've asked around a little about this and got just dumb stares.Ghetto grind it is.
@@mikef-gi2dg lol gotta do what you gotta do to get those extra cubic inches 🙃
@@KingJT80 EXACTLY!!!!
They have these as crate motors they don't come with headers though headers are bought separate transmission is also separately bought. The motor is about 7500$
Yea. I just wanted to build my own, for better or for worse... Thanks for watching.
@@2old2rodeo oh
Do you have any idea what year that block is and what it came out of?
Not really. The original block I started with was supposed to out of a 1972 Suburban. Then I had a chance to pick this one up cheap that was in better condition and already torn down (no ring ridge, less wear, etc.). It has the same casting number 010. I'll try to upload some pictures of the casting numbers. If you can determine anything from them, I'd be interested in knowing what they mean. I just haven't taken the time to research them.
Here is a link to the pictures. drive.google.com/drive/folders/18eioXbpll4fYTvtqeTV4w9jLqCHO6q49?usp=sharing
what block did you use
It was a small block chevy 350 block originally, an 010 casting, 2 piece rear main seal, 4 bolt main.
I just learned too.
Local speed shop quoted 380 for hot tank haha.
Machine shops are high in your area! My shop charges $200 for cleaning, boring, and final hone.
What area are you in? I kind of went into this blind, not knowing what the costs were. It may be I paid more than I should have because I didn't know any better. They do have published price lists but who's to say they don't discount for those in the know. On some other videos I talk about the "education expense" and I'm surely learning and paying for the education.. Thanks for watching.
2Old2Rodeo probably just different prices for different areas. I’m in NE Arkansas. Now my shop is by no means a race shop but they do good work. Enjoyed the video!
yeah Indianapolis steve schmidt does machine work for 100 dollars an hour takes him about 2 to clearance clean and hone
for a hot tank, bore, cleaning and a sleeve i am paying roughly $450 in ohio
@Andrew Pifer Can I ask what area and machine shop if you don't mind giving out that info?
Where are you finding those $900 383 stroker blocks?
That was in January of 2020. Summit Racing. There is a link in the video description. I'm not sure when they sold out but they have never been back since. Thanks for watching.
good video, you should make more i like that !
Thank You!
Money well spent
Thanks for watching.
Which heads gasket did you use
Since your using Vortec heads on a older 350 block
I called Summit Racing and the guy on the phone help me. The bore on this is a little larger than I would have liked but it was what they had in stock. www.summitracing.com/parts/CGT-C5474-040
i would rather build a long rod 400, never liked the 383. I've had great luck with 400. no replacement for displacement. great choice for rods and pistons. want to play you got to pay. and buying someone else's problem is no fun either.
now you know whats in it and will know it's limmits.
have fun with it, should run good.
I like 400s but the blocks are hard to find locally. The 350's are a dime a dozen here. Thanks for watching.
“But if you don’t like the weather in Ohio, wait a few minutes and it’ll change.” We say that quite a bit in Washington
I bet you do! Thanks for watching.
So are you saying you could get a 383ci short block from summit for $1,100 bucks?
No. It was a re-manufactured bare block that was available at the time I made the video. I was able to price it online including shipping at the time. It has not been available for quite a while. www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-150100-30/make/chevrolet
@@2old2rodeo Thank you for the inel.
My old school was 202 fuelly heads
Question are you going to be racing 383 or just Street use?.
Mostly street. I do hope to take it to the track just to benchmark my build.
@@2old2rodeo when you take it to the track I would love to see a video of it.. By the way when you build the 383 stroker did you have a solid cam you put in it or was it hydraulic?
@@WalterBarger-io9ck I went with a hydraulic flat tappet. This was my first build so I was thinking about valve lash and trying to keep it simple. If I had it to do over again, I would change a lot of things but it was a learning experience. It will be a while before I get to the track. I haven't worked on the car in months due to fighting some health issues and also due to some remodeling on the house. I hope to get back to it soon. Thank you for the interest and kind words. Jeff
Did you have that block sonic checked?
The reason I ask is I was wondering about core shift the cam tunnel is pretty off
I'm not sure I understand what you mean by "core shift" and being off? The block was pressure tested by the machine shop. I'm not sure exactly how that process works.
2Old2Rodeo it’s a common problem especially with the older blocks they will have core shift and the cylnders will be really thin on the thrust side
Building a 75 omega currently
Good luck with your build!
A year later this same block is back ordered and it’s $1,500+
The new normal? I hope not. Thanks for watching.
@@2old2rodeo summit hasn’t had these blocks in stock since last November.
@@chrisd078 You can still find a used block and have it machined. It would be hard to believe machining cost have gone up much during this as it is primarily labor and I'm guessing fewer people are building right now... just a guess though.
Steve from Annapolis I just had one comment about connecting rods did you do your research should have used the 5.7 connecting rods 6-in rods can be trouble your application is of RPM
I did. From sources I trust, I heard they make more power, they cause detonation, and they make no difference at all. Too late now. The engine is together and will be starting for break in soon. Thanks for watching.
Could've had cnc blocks northeast do you block. Cost would've been about the same as summit racing. And far better quality work. Cnc blocks northeast.
Thanks for the info. I bookmarked their web page.
The guy that owns/runs it is a member of speedtalk.com. he has great reviews, very accurate, extremely professional. FWIW, you could have got a dart shp block finished to your specs for about 1900.
Good video but I think a 377 is better faster reving 400 block 350 crank I forgot rod length
I'm not familiar with it but I will research it. I started with what I had. Originally going to be a stock build with vortec heads and then I decided to push it a little further... Thanks for watching.
How about a 327 crank in a 400 block?
Can you approximate the HP of this upgrade? Thanks a lot.
My goal is 450 HP and 425 Ft Lbs of torque naturally aspirated. I think that is pretty realistic from all my research. After breaking it in and getting things sorted, I plan a 200 to 300 shot of Nitrous in two stages. Thanks for watching.
2Old2Rodeo that 425 goal is gonna be smashed. You'll be closer to 500 with a 750dp
I try not to get my hopes too high so I'm not disappointed, That would be cool.
@@2old2rodeo Your torque should be higher, more like 460 to 475 @ about 4,500. Your hp should be about 430 to 450 @ about 5,400 . Just depends on how well they ported the heads. Some people are magicians with porting heads, others can ruin them.
I would be pleased with that. Brzezinski Racing in Wisconsin did the head work.
Thanks.
What does it cost? Depends on what you put into it!! Anywhere from $800 to $80,000!!! There's your answer!
I want tonput a 383 stroker in my TJ
👍
currently balls deep in a 69 nova project, it is wayyyy cheaper to buy a completed car than a rusty one
I agree, but where's the fun in that? ;-) Thanks for watching.
yeah if you can buy a nana grandma clean one youll be better off and then you add your touch like wheels suspension and drivetrain
Damn, them bare blocks at summit runs 2100.00 now! Ha ha
Yeah. Everything has gotten out of sight. I thought I was spending too much at the time. Now it just looks like I'm taking too long putting the car back together. Thanks for watching and commenting.
@2old2rodeo
Nope you started at the right time my friend, I'm starting to late, and it's going to take me awhile.
Thanks for your reply.
found it always coust more than ya think. nut you only live once right
We all need a hobby... I just seem to choose expensive hobbies. Thanks.
thats hight here u can get the whole block done for 300
Maybe do skip white next time
By or you a short block like that clearanced balanced less than 3k probably to your door heard nothing but good thing ngs about them
My rotating assembly was from Skip White. I wanted to do the work myself for the learning experience but I think you are right, a guy could probably save time and money buying a short block.
Why spend the money on the forged bottom end , just to run a flat tappet cam and vortec heads , gotta go big and get some man heads and roller cam for that price , must be his first build
It was my first build. Thanks.
Just to elaborate, I got the heads first, the cam next and the build was originally going to be a mild 355 build. The I decided I wanted to do a stroker. It just kind of snowballed from there. There isn't any reason I can't upgrade the heads and cam in the future. Wasted some money? Sure, but I chalk that up as an education expense. I've learned a lot going through this process.
Summit does not selling these blocks anymore
Yea, I'm aware. I just don't want to try to edit my most popular video. Who knows, maybe it will be back some day...
@@2old2rodeo I definitely am not trying to insult you by no means God bless brother
@@WalterBarger-io9ck Wasn't taken that way. Have a great week. God Bless you too.
Dang, I could have gotten a Big Block 496 for 6K
A friend of mine tried hard to convince me to go big block but small blocks are what I had as a kid. I could have had a much cheaper small block but I'm finally able to build the engine/car I wanted as a kid but couldn't afford. At least I'm putting the money into machining and forged/balanced internals and not into "Bling". Thanks for watching.
@@2old2rodeo bud, that's all that matters. I love the small blocks too as I have a 383 and well. Its unreal what kind of power can be made from the Chevy 350 engine which in my opinion is the best engine Chevy ever made along side the 400ci. Happy building my friend. I will subscribe. God bless my friend
Thanks and God Bless you too.
383s are bearing spinners.
I've never had any trouble with a SBC spinning a bearing. I had 2 Pontiac 400's spin bearings though.
You completely wasted your money on those heads you can buy Aluminum heads that flow 60 to 70 more CFM's for less than 1500
Yea. I would do a lot of things differently if I were doing it over. This was my first build. Originally intended to be a mild 355 build and then it kinda spiraled out of control... Thanks for watching and commenting.
All these people want to say this or that about what ya paid , just maybe he used professionals , unlock everybody else
I'm blessed to be able to build what I wanted as a teenager but couldn't afford. It's not going to set any world records but I am enjoying the journey.
Dam for what u paid for machine work u could buy new one already done
I'll know better next time...
You should of just bought a block from summit ready to go
I wish I had. I didn't know about it when I took my block to the machine shop. I'm also wondering if I should have skipped the pressure test and cleaning. I could have done the clearance work myself, Those 3 items would save a bunch of money.Thanks for watching.
@bigboikco7 what kimda block you recommend
@@yourmom705 I am using a factory block. I would like to build one with a Dart block. I hear a lot of good things about them.
@@2old2rodeo is it the dart shp block? cus i wana go 383 with a 200 shot but i don't wana spend a grand on just machine work on my oldn350 block
@@yourmom705 The Dart block will cost a lot more than machining your old block. If you know your block is good, you could skip the pressure test, clean it yourself, clearance it yourself. Bore and Hone is $360 at my local shop and square decking is $250 so you can do it for less and you might find your local shop to be cheaper. I've had a couple of guys tell me shops in my area are expensive. Also going with an externally balanced assembly will save some money. With a 200 shot, watch your ring end gap and make sure you have the right piston material. That is why I went with an all forged assembly. I'm planning on a 200-250 shot as well. This is the guy I follow to learn. ua-cam.com/video/oL7tcTlzCt8/v-deo.html
383 is a waste of $ anymore, when you can do 421-427 for the same$
I'm sure you are right but I had two 350 blocks sitting...
You over paid😂 like by a lot. But your old as dirt so you cant do the cleaning and machining yourself. You need to make friends with people who do transmissions. They have machines that can clean very well. Buddy didn't change me a dime. Its about networking and making friends that will help you along the way. Spent 700 on my 383. My machined and honed the engine myself as well as rebuilding the carbs. Im pushing 510 horse power naturally aspirated.
That's why I left Ohio 🤣
I hear you. I hope you went south? Thanks for watching.
@@2old2rodeo I went as far south as I could