There is actually this convoluted brace you are supposed to bolt to the engine that I've never seen any dealership have as a pole jack does the trick just fine.
dont know if you guys gives a damn but if you guys are bored like me during the covid times you can watch all of the new series on Instaflixxer. Been watching with my girlfriend lately xD
Nice to get a detailed procedure from a true professional including some tips and shortcuts from what is described in the service manual-I.E. why remove the swaybar if you don't need to, mark the drive shaft for balancing, and no need to remove interior parts. That last part is what the hacks do...
This video is by-far the best transmission removal video, especially how you cover removal without having to take out the shifter linkage and needing to disassemble the interior. What transmission jack do you use?
Hey so you mentioned not to press the clutch pedal when doing this. I accidentally forgot and pressed down on my clutch and that stick poked out, long story short… my clutch pedal sits really low now and I want to fix that. Btw great vid, helped me a ton with my install !!!
Update: thought the kit I bought came with the fly wheel I was wrong so know I have to wait until Monday 🤦🏾♂️ but great video was pretty easy to take out
I know this a old video but, what would be the steps if your transmission can't separate from the engine. I did a recent clutch h job on my 13' FRS and I had a defective clutch disc long story short I'm back under the car again at home but my transmission won't separate from my engine. I even had the engine leveled with the transmission
Use a pry bar against the front sway bar to pry the transmission back. I always use anti seize on the dowel pins to prevent the trans from getting stuck to the engine. Last resort is to wedge a chisel or screw driver to separate the engine and trans.
That has to be a secret for the ages. From what I've seen on cars other shops work on, a strategically placed tear in the boot is better than completely destroying it.
I was wondering, let’s say you install a lighter flywheel and a stage 1 clutch. How do you determine the right amount of pedal stroke or fork travel so you have the correct amount of dissengagement? Because factory specs won’t be applicable.
Here is a good video on shimming the pivot ball. You shouldnt have to do it in these cars, but you may need to lengthen or shorten the rod for the clutch master ua-cam.com/video/wxGMvnEfVwo/v-deo.html
Quick question- if I accidentally remove the detent ball bolt (star/torx at the bottom), and put it back in, is all good? I didn't see a detent ball fall out, which now seems odd...
Been a while since this video was made but I'm about too take out my transmission to do the clutch job and I was wondering how I would plug the transmission too keep the fluid in?
I use a spare transmission yoke. Toyota W58 yoke is the same as as the FRS trans. Otherwise they make universal plastic tools to plug the rear end. Back in the bad when I didnt have the yoke tool, I'd just drain the transmission
The "shortcut" wasn't worth a shit on removing the shifter mechanism from under the car. The two side pins came out fine, but no way in hell the shift-rod ball stud was going to come out of the boss. Not sure if it rusted, or what, but no amount of tapping, pushing on the pin, leveraging a pry....nothing got it to budge after removing the clip. Had to go back on top and do the normal interior work anyway.
@@CMAutohaus after installing everything my car would crank but not start after a few times we tried to push start it and it would give us a Crankshaft position sensor code any ideas?
@@naythoniemsisanith3222 That crank trigger wheel sits behind the flywheel. I'd double check around that area. Make sure the crank sensor/wiring didnt get damaged.
You’re the kind of guy we all want working on our car Keep up the good work young man
Much appreciated! But I am actually in my 30's haha!
CM Autohaus I figured that that’s why I called you a young man and not a kid lol keep up the good work brother
It's pretty awesome to see you do it the right way with the right tools. Thanks for taking the time to put this together!
There is actually this convoluted brace you are supposed to bolt to the engine that I've never seen any dealership have as a pole jack does the trick just fine.
dont know if you guys gives a damn but if you guys are bored like me during the covid times you can watch all of the new series on Instaflixxer. Been watching with my girlfriend lately xD
@Caspian Niko Yea, I have been watching on instaflixxer for months myself :)
It helps so much having the right tools.
1000% agree
Excellent, video I don't even have a FRS and I learned something
Much appreciated Rocky!
the video I've been searching for!
Lol like a religion! Thank you transmission Jesus!
severely underrated, thanks for the amazing video!
Thanks for the kind words!
Good stuff I received a TREMEC tr6060 in a box at work this morning.🛠
Nice work bro! Might need a clutch job soon so will def come back to this at some point!
Glad you enjoyed it! Pt2 install releases Monday.
Nice to get a detailed procedure from a true professional including some tips and shortcuts from what is described in the service manual-I.E. why remove the swaybar if you don't need to, mark the drive shaft for balancing, and no need to remove interior parts. That last part is what the hacks do...
Great video man
Awesome videos. Thanks!
Thanks Kitty!
Solid video
Thanks you!
@@CMAutohaus Subbed to your channel you should keep this sort of thing going.
@@dave4956 Thank you and Will do!
This video is by-far the best transmission removal video, especially how you cover removal without having to take out the shifter linkage and needing to disassemble the interior. What transmission jack do you use?
Thank you for the kind words. For home use, a harbor freight trans jack works great. Here at the shop we have a Norco brand dual piston unit.
Thank you so much. I definitely liked and subbed
Hey so you mentioned not to press the clutch pedal when doing this. I accidentally forgot and pressed down on my clutch and that stick poked out, long story short… my clutch pedal sits really low now and I want to fix that. Btw great vid, helped me a ton with my install !!!
You may need to replace your clutch slave now. The piston may have popped out of the bore and the seal got damaged.
Pulling my trans tomorrow to put a new clutch in wish me luck 😭
Gan Bare Onii-Chan!
Update: thought the kit I bought came with the fly wheel I was wrong so know I have to wait until Monday 🤦🏾♂️ but great video was pretty easy to take out
@@LeanSippaX2 Ah! Parts delays are the worst!
How did you get the boot off shifter linkage with out tearing it???
I'd recommend buying a new boot ahead of time. 90% chance it will be torn. I usually make a calculated slit in the boot.
I know this a old video but, what would be the steps if your transmission can't separate from the engine. I did a recent clutch h job on my 13' FRS and I had a defective clutch disc long story short I'm back under the car again at home but my transmission won't separate from my engine. I even had the engine leveled with the transmission
Use a pry bar against the front sway bar to pry the transmission back. I always use anti seize on the dowel pins to prevent the trans from getting stuck to the engine.
Last resort is to wedge a chisel or screw driver to separate the engine and trans.
I finally got it out the shifter carrier was still attached 🥲 now the struggle of trying to put it back in
Thanks for the great tips! Do you have any advice on how to get the shift linkage boot off from under the vehicle without tearing it?
That has to be a secret for the ages. From what I've seen on cars other shops work on, a strategically placed tear in the boot is better than completely destroying it.
@@CMAutohaus Thanks for the reply. I was thinking heating it a little with a heat gun may make it more pliable.
I was wondering, let’s say you install a lighter flywheel and a stage 1 clutch. How do you determine the right amount of pedal stroke or fork travel so you have the correct amount of dissengagement? Because factory specs won’t be applicable.
Here is a good video on shimming the pivot ball. You shouldnt have to do it in these cars, but you may need to lengthen or shorten the rod for the clutch master
ua-cam.com/video/wxGMvnEfVwo/v-deo.html
Why do you take off that bracket up top after unplugging everything is it necessary?
Quick question- if I accidentally remove the detent ball bolt (star/torx at the bottom), and put it back in, is all good? I didn't see a detent ball fall out, which now seems odd...
Been a while since this video was made but I'm about too take out my transmission to do the clutch job and I was wondering how I would plug the transmission too keep the fluid in?
I use a spare transmission yoke. Toyota W58 yoke is the same as as the FRS trans. Otherwise they make universal plastic tools to plug the rear end.
Back in the bad when I didnt have the yoke tool, I'd just drain the transmission
I had my clutch replaced and now I have an exhaust leak. I think they put the old gaskets back in.
The front pipe gasket gets pretty beat. Sounds likely. Id take it back to them.
What is the actual time to remove the transmission?
Depends. Subaru book time is something like 6.5 hours. In our area, 4hrs billable labor seems to be common.
The "shortcut" wasn't worth a shit on removing the shifter mechanism from under the car. The two side pins came out fine, but no way in hell the shift-rod ball stud was going to come out of the boss. Not sure if it rusted, or what, but no amount of tapping, pushing on the pin, leveraging a pry....nothing got it to budge after removing the clip. Had to go back on top and do the normal interior work anyway.
I think my transmission might be seized on my engine
A few good prys and PB blaster should do. Why I always recommend anti seize on the engine dowel pins
@@CMAutohaus awesome I was finally able to pry it open it required a lot of force but I eventually got it I’m so happy
@@naythoniemsisanith3222 Good stuff! Glad you got it!
@@CMAutohaus after installing everything my car would crank but not start after a few times we tried to push start it and it would give us a Crankshaft position sensor code any ideas?
@@naythoniemsisanith3222 That crank trigger wheel sits behind the flywheel. I'd double check around that area. Make sure the crank sensor/wiring didnt get damaged.
I'll give Subaru one thing, at least their transmission bolts are easy to get to.